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I'm a little late to your question but here's my two cents:

1. Nothing will be as good as running a cable. CAT5E or CAT6 won't really matter much for most users. CAT6 will get you past the 1Gbps speed at certain distances, but CAT5e supports 1Gbps at 100 m (about 300 ft). CAT6 is also more expansive and more difficult to work with (the strands are thicker which means they won't bend as well and they are harder to crimp connectors). The cable and connectors to do this will cost less than the Moca or powerline adaptors, but obviously you have to install the cable and that can sometimes be prohibitive. You could hire an electrician and he could possibly do it for less than $100, so don't rule that out either. Modular jacks can be terminated in a wall jack without the need to crimp, like Leviton (https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5G108-RW5-QuickPort-Cat-5e-White/dp/B00029IYUM/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539285173&sr=1-4&keywords=leviton+wall+jack). All you need is one cable and you can connect multiple devices in your office and even put in a wireless access point so your phone has a good connection.
   
   
2. Barring the cabling option, I think powerline is the next best option. A pair like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B5BTKS3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1) will only cost you $70 and will give you speeds of a few hundred Mbps in most cases. It's cheap, easy, and reliable. I have personally experienced that these work pretty well, although not as good as real CAT5 cable.
   
   
3. If for some reason you must go with Moca, a pair like this (https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200S02/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539284526&sr=1-1&keywords=moca%2Badapter&th=1) will cost you around $170. I have personally experienced that these are mediocre performance wise, but it depends on the coax wiring in your house. If you only have a 2 or 3 way splitter, and it's RG6, and not that long, they might perform OK. But if you have a 5-way splitter or a long distance over RG59, these will not perform well. In addition, you should install a MOCA filter (https://www.amazon.com/TiVo-Authorized-Point-Entry-Filter/dp/B01EKCL1U6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539284803&sr=1-2&keywords=moca+filter&dpID=31qi88Oe0PL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch) on your main cable line to prevent your network traffic from getting to the outside pole, where somebody could conceivably sniff it. All of these Moca adaptors will reduce your cable signal a bit and could lead to some boxes not getting their required signal, resulting in channel dropout or digital noise in the picture. I can't think of a scenario where Moca would work better than powerline adaptors.

Hmm I would suggest Introduction to Networks v6 Companion Guide or ICND1.

I learned at school but Cisco is the reference for networks, and getting CCNA is like having the common basis that every IT Network guy should know. Well, not exactly having the CCNA as a cert but knowing all the stuff they talk about.

Be careful though, ICND1+ICND2 = CCNA, so the 2^nd book isn't enough.

If by chance you know French, try this one. He is the reference for any beginner as he explains the concepts. Unfortunately I found no translation of it, only for his most recent books (which are more specific). And this website.

Good luck

First things first: go download the exam topics from Cisco and use them as a checklist of things to study.

https://learningnetwork.cisco.com/community/certifications/ccna/icnd1/exam-topics

Next, I recommend the official certification guide book from Cisco, written by Wendell Odom:

CCENT/CCNA ICND1 100-105 Official Cert Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/1587205807/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MaG5CbAJWWE0D

Pair this with videos from either Pluralsight or CBT Nuggets depending on your budget. Udemy has some too but I didn't have luck learning much from those personally.

A practice test from Boson is also a good investment to have.

http://www.boson.com/practice-exam/100-105-cisco-icnd1-ccent-practice-exam

My tactic was to first speed read through the entire book once, then go through in detail a second time chapter by chapter. As I read each chapter I would watch the videos corresponding to that topic and take practice tests configured to questions about that topic. Only once I felt comfortable with a topic did I move on to the next.

Something else to consider, and this entirely speculative, is that the current 100-105/200-105 series CCENT and CCNA tests are three years old and Cisco may announce sometime in the next month or so whether they will get replaced with a newer version in keeping with their usual three year cycle. Keep an ear to the ground on that and look for any announcements out of the Cisco Live conference in June.

Sounds like your cabling to the jacks supports gig. I agree with the previous posts and you should bite the bullet and run new drops.

If you want to be cheap, get some cheap unmanaged gig switches and put at each drop where you need more than one device. Get something like this Netgear switch.

Go through Professor Messer’s CompTIA Network+ videos. They’re free.

https://www.professormesser.com/network-plus/n10-006/n10-006-course-index/

If you really want a book, I thought this one was helpful:
https://www.amazon.com/CompTIA-Network-Certification-Guide-N10-005/dp/0071789227

The way people use spaces changes, especially in a high growth rate thing like a startup. Moving around furniture will absolutely be a thing. I would design this expecting to have to move everything in a year.

A 4 gang box on the desk, with a f-f RJ45 Coupler keystone to a pre-made patch cable, running to a 24 port switch, with that 24 port switch home run back to the head end via armored fiber jumper. That saves you from having to custom make hundreds of cables. You should be able to get really close to the right size pre-made cables to reach from the switch to each SMB.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-41089-4WP-QuickPort-Surface-Housing/dp/B002FYB0L2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=4+port+surface+mount+box&qid=1568403900&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-25-Pack-Keystone-Coupler-Black/dp/B075ZPGV1H/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=rj45+keystone&qid=1568403954&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Start with reading the IEEE 802 standard. Then 802.1X. Then move into 802.11.

Matthew Gast authored a couple books, 802.11 Wireless Networks: The Definitive Guide (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0596100523/) another for 802.11ac (https://www.amazon.com/dp/1449343147). Start with the beginning and step though the 802.11 standard and groups.

While you could “just Google it”, you won’t learn the why and the what - just the how. If you really want to learn it, Gast’s books are really good at walking through history and standards (which they should, he sits on the IEEE 802.11 committee).

Will this work to make this job a little bit easier?

https://www.amazon.com/CHANNEL-VISION-C-0436-Telecom-Distribution/dp/B0007G6TFM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=rj45+telephone+distribution+module&qid=1549680149&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I would suggest getting a electricity usage monitor, measure each device in your house (not just the network), and then work on the high consumers. The rated power of a device is the maximum it will draw, the device may be drawing far less. Don't guess, measure.

Something like this, only an appropriate model for your power: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU

If you want to get really into it, look into home automation that instruments each circuit at the breaker panel and continuously records power consumption by circuit.

Depends on whatever other equipment you have. If you just have a normal consumer grade router then any unmanaged switch will do as they're all fairly synonymous. I like the metal TrendNET ones personally here :


http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S80g/dp/B001QUA6RA

Get something like this. Plug router A into that, then plug that into router B for WiFi and your PC and w/e else you have that can be hard wired.

Yes,

If that access point does not use an AC power adapter, then you will need a Power-over-Ethernet Injector which adds DC power to the cable to power the device.
This is because your router does not have PoE from what i briefly skimmed. If it does, disregard that ish.

Said device: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_X.o1CbVJEVEEV

Posted from Android.

This won't work. In short it will be because there won't be any routing or IP configuration between the two routers which you can't do on most consumer grade home routers.

What you need to do instead is purchase a switch, something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B0000BVYT3?th=1&psc=1

And then put a cable between your existing router and the switch.

Ideally you would put a cable in the wall and terminate it (like an electrical outlet) at either end and then cable the switch and router locally at each end.

As for the Wi-Fi signal, the cheapest way to solve this would be to buy some Wi-Fi boosters to relay the signal but if you've got some cash to spare consider getting an access point or two (Unifi sell some cheap ones).

I'm by no means an expert though so take this with a pinch of salt.

TLDR,
buy a switch and some WiFi boosters instead.

Addition: This is the actual splitter we are using.

First try different ports, different devices, then check punch downs/ crimps if still have the issue test it with one of these. Network Cable Tester

Buy fiber with the ends on it already, get single strand SFPs and use single mode, you can pull extra fiber and utilize it if any strands ever break. LC is the only way to go, they are small enough you should be able to eek them through anything.

SFP+ bxd bxu make a pair. https://www.amazon.com/QSFPTEK-Transceivers-Single-Mode-SFP-10G-BXD-I-SFP-10G-BXU-I/dp/B07QLKDZJH/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=10gb+sfp%2B+bxd&qid=1569376342&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK08/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>TP-Link TL-SG108 Switch

looks to be hardware issue with negotiate. i see user reviews with same issue.

​

May 7, 2015

Model: Desktop UnmanagedCapacity: 16-Port Gigabit

Worse than horrible customer service.
I received a defective unit that would not connect to any 100 Mpbs devices. I contacted customer service to get it fixed or replaced.
Here's the response I got;


"Dear Errol,
Many thanks for your valued reply.
Really sorry for the delay in getting back to you as I was off duty yesterday.


It seems that there is something wrong with the speed negotiation between the switch and your 100Mbps devices. In this case, sorry but I'm afraid that we cannot do anything on this switch as it's just plug-and-play.


Your understanding will be highly appreciated.
Have a good day."


That's it. I'm stuck with a broken switch.
I will never buy another TP-Link product again.

If you have ports around your house, I would start by buying a cable tracer and tester kit like this.

You appear to have an OnQ 1x12 telecom system in place in that cabinet which is for phones only and an OnQ network interface panel. So the OnQ 1x12 part isn't useful for you, but you could use the OnQ network interface part and a switch to make this work. You will need a 110 punch down tool will have to do some rewiring though.

Edit: changed comment after noticing it was an OnQ system.

OP, this is a suitable crimper on amazon

TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NCT5Bb9R485EM

These are suitable cable connectors on amazon

Cable Matters 100-Pack Cat 6 / Cat6 RJ45 Modular Plugs (RJ45 Plugs) for Stranded UTP Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004D5RFCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zFT5BbGGADAGM

Youll see "pass through" connectors advertised on amazon and other retailers on amazon, I dont have experience with using them.

For RJ11 usage, most crimpers have an RJ11 slot and an RJ45 slot, the 45 wont fit into the 11 slot and the 11 would be damaged if you used it in the 45 slot. I think youre making this more complicated than it needs to be.

Pass4Sure is a brain dump site. Their test banks are the actual questions from the real test question bank, based on people who memorized the questions and reported them to Pass4Sure.

Using brain dumps is cheating, and if you get caught using dumps your certs can be invalidated. Don't cheat on tests, and don't contribute to brain dumps.

I used this book (or the current edition of it at the time) to pass Network+.