(Part 2) Top products from r/Network

I'm a little late to your question but here's my two cents:

1. Nothing will be as good as running a cable. CAT5E or CAT6 won't really matter much for most users. CAT6 will get you past the 1Gbps speed at certain distances, but CAT5e supports 1Gbps at 100 m (about 300 ft). CAT6 is also more expansive and more difficult to work with (the strands are thicker which means they won't bend as well and they are harder to crimp connectors). The cable and connectors to do this will cost less than the Moca or powerline adaptors, but obviously you have to install the cable and that can sometimes be prohibitive. You could hire an electrician and he could possibly do it for less than $100, so don't rule that out either. Modular jacks can be terminated in a wall jack without the need to crimp, like Leviton (https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5G108-RW5-QuickPort-Cat-5e-White/dp/B00029IYUM/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539285173&sr=1-4&keywords=leviton+wall+jack). All you need is one cable and you can connect multiple devices in your office and even put in a wireless access point so your phone has a good connection.
   
   
2. Barring the cabling option, I think powerline is the next best option. A pair like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B5BTKS3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1) will only cost you $70 and will give you speeds of a few hundred Mbps in most cases. It's cheap, easy, and reliable. I have personally experienced that these work pretty well, although not as good as real CAT5 cable.
   
   
3. If for some reason you must go with Moca, a pair like this (https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200S02/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539284526&sr=1-1&keywords=moca%2Badapter&th=1) will cost you around $170. I have personally experienced that these are mediocre performance wise, but it depends on the coax wiring in your house. If you only have a 2 or 3 way splitter, and it's RG6, and not that long, they might perform OK. But if you have a 5-way splitter or a long distance over RG59, these will not perform well. In addition, you should install a MOCA filter (https://www.amazon.com/TiVo-Authorized-Point-Entry-Filter/dp/B01EKCL1U6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539284803&sr=1-2&keywords=moca+filter&dpID=31qi88Oe0PL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch) on your main cable line to prevent your network traffic from getting to the outside pole, where somebody could conceivably sniff it. All of these Moca adaptors will reduce your cable signal a bit and could lead to some boxes not getting their required signal, resulting in channel dropout or digital noise in the picture. I can't think of a scenario where Moca would work better than powerline adaptors.

Hmm I would suggest Introduction to Networks v6 Companion Guide or ICND1.

I learned at school but Cisco is the reference for networks, and getting CCNA is like having the common basis that every IT Network guy should know. Well, not exactly having the CCNA as a cert but knowing all the stuff they talk about.

Be careful though, ICND1+ICND2 = CCNA, so the 2^nd book isn't enough.

If by chance you know French, try this one. He is the reference for any beginner as he explains the concepts. Unfortunately I found no translation of it, only for his most recent books (which are more specific). And this website.

Good luck

The way people use spaces changes, especially in a high growth rate thing like a startup. Moving around furniture will absolutely be a thing. I would design this expecting to have to move everything in a year.

A 4 gang box on the desk, with a f-f RJ45 Coupler keystone to a pre-made patch cable, running to a 24 port switch, with that 24 port switch home run back to the head end via armored fiber jumper. That saves you from having to custom make hundreds of cables. You should be able to get really close to the right size pre-made cables to reach from the switch to each SMB.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-41089-4WP-QuickPort-Surface-Housing/dp/B002FYB0L2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=4+port+surface+mount+box&qid=1568403900&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-25-Pack-Keystone-Coupler-Black/dp/B075ZPGV1H/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=rj45+keystone&qid=1568403954&s=gateway&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-ShineKee-Heavy-Duty-Networking-Waterproof/dp/B06Y66B746


CAT7 is a higher speed than you'll need but it'll future proof it and you'll avoid having to rerun it in like a decade or more. lol.

Start with reading the IEEE 802 standard. Then 802.1X. Then move into 802.11.

Matthew Gast authored a couple books, 802.11 Wireless Networks: The Definitive Guide (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0596100523/) another for 802.11ac (https://www.amazon.com/dp/1449343147). Start with the beginning and step though the 802.11 standard and groups.

While you could “just Google it”, you won’t learn the why and the what - just the how. If you really want to learn it, Gast’s books are really good at walking through history and standards (which they should, he sits on the IEEE 802.11 committee).

Will this work to make this job a little bit easier?

https://www.amazon.com/CHANNEL-VISION-C-0436-Telecom-Distribution/dp/B0007G6TFM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=rj45+telephone+distribution+module&qid=1549680149&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I would suggest getting a electricity usage monitor, measure each device in your house (not just the network), and then work on the high consumers. The rated power of a device is the maximum it will draw, the device may be drawing far less. Don't guess, measure.

Something like this, only an appropriate model for your power: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU

If you want to get really into it, look into home automation that instruments each circuit at the breaker panel and continuously records power consumption by circuit.

Depends on whatever other equipment you have. If you just have a normal consumer grade router then any unmanaged switch will do as they're all fairly synonymous. I like the metal TrendNET ones personally here :


http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S80g/dp/B001QUA6RA

Yes,

If that access point does not use an AC power adapter, then you will need a Power-over-Ethernet Injector which adds DC power to the cable to power the device.
This is because your router does not have PoE from what i briefly skimmed. If it does, disregard that ish.

Said device: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_X.o1CbVJEVEEV

Posted from Android.

Buy fiber with the ends on it already, get single strand SFPs and use single mode, you can pull extra fiber and utilize it if any strands ever break. LC is the only way to go, they are small enough you should be able to eek them through anything.

SFP+ bxd bxu make a pair. https://www.amazon.com/QSFPTEK-Transceivers-Single-Mode-SFP-10G-BXD-I-SFP-10G-BXU-I/dp/B07QLKDZJH/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=10gb+sfp%2B+bxd&qid=1569376342&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Airfiber-Wireless-Complete-Points/dp/B00A51ZOQ4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=af24&qid=1556897665&s=electronics&sr=1-3

First try different ports, different devices, then check punch downs/ crimps if still have the issue test it with one of these. Network Cable Tester

Addition: This is the actual splitter we are using.

I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK08/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>TP-Link TL-SG108 Switch

looks to be hardware issue with negotiate. i see user reviews with same issue.

​

May 7, 2015

Model: Desktop UnmanagedCapacity: 16-Port Gigabit

Worse than horrible customer service.
I received a defective unit that would not connect to any 100 Mpbs devices. I contacted customer service to get it fixed or replaced.
Here's the response I got;


"Dear Errol,
Many thanks for your valued reply.
Really sorry for the delay in getting back to you as I was off duty yesterday.


It seems that there is something wrong with the speed negotiation between the switch and your 100Mbps devices. In this case, sorry but I'm afraid that we cannot do anything on this switch as it's just plug-and-play.


Your understanding will be highly appreciated.
Have a good day."


That's it. I'm stuck with a broken switch.
I will never buy another TP-Link product again.

If you have ports around your house, I would start by buying a cable tracer and tester kit like this.

You appear to have an OnQ 1x12 telecom system in place in that cabinet which is for phones only and an OnQ network interface panel. So the OnQ 1x12 part isn't useful for you, but you could use the OnQ network interface part and a switch to make this work. You will need a 110 punch down tool will have to do some rewiring though.

Edit: changed comment after noticing it was an OnQ system.

OP, this is a suitable crimper on amazon

TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NCT5Bb9R485EM

These are suitable cable connectors on amazon

Cable Matters 100-Pack Cat 6 / Cat6 RJ45 Modular Plugs (RJ45 Plugs) for Stranded UTP Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004D5RFCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zFT5BbGGADAGM

Youll see "pass through" connectors advertised on amazon and other retailers on amazon, I dont have experience with using them.

For RJ11 usage, most crimpers have an RJ11 slot and an RJ45 slot, the 45 wont fit into the 11 slot and the 11 would be damaged if you used it in the 45 slot. I think youre making this more complicated than it needs to be.

Pass4Sure is a brain dump site. Their test banks are the actual questions from the real test question bank, based on people who memorized the questions and reported them to Pass4Sure.

Using brain dumps is cheating, and if you get caught using dumps your certs can be invalidated. Don't cheat on tests, and don't contribute to brain dumps.

I used this book (or the current edition of it at the time) to pass Network+.