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I used a LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply Output 1.23V-30V on my first one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHAOQO/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For me it works great, I like it better than my vamo v3 but someone suggested for my next build I use an okr. I don't really know much about them besides what I've gathered here.
Anyway I'm sure it's better but what are the benefits to the okr t10 compared with the buck converter.
BTW I'm planning on using 2 18350's and carving a wood box with sorta a pistol grip that fits in my hand really nicely.
Thanks

No offense taken, I appreciate the suggestions :)

I understand that I need to understand the basic elements of electricity a but more, I'll do some more reading. I did not take into account amps, I thought amps were calculated from volts and the amount of resistance, like doing so from this website http://vapecalc.com. So from using that site, if I regulated my 2 batteries at 5volts, that would give me

Anyways, I'm currently using a single 18350 1500mAh 4.2-2.75v battery with my Atlantis, and I'm not getting clouds exactly, but good enough for my taste: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBTB16C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I assumed using two batteries would be fine. If I do decide to still go with the 16340 batteries, what is the minimum resistance you'd recommend? I'm liking the.5 resistance right now even though I'm not getting the most out of my atty with my current 16350 batteries, but I had the nautilus mini at 1.8ohm and had no issue with that as well.

EDIT: That was also just a sketch, first time using Sketchbook ever and first time using a drawing tablet in about a year lol.

Again, I'll do a bit more research, but if anyone has info on these questions I'm having, I would certainly appreciate it.

That.... that is not the job of a simple mosfet. It's also beyond my abilities so i can't explain the design process to you either.

Let's consider the hypothetical situation. We have an irlb3034 with a Vgs of 10V, our power supply has infinate current capability with no drop, and everything is connected with lossless conductors.

So when our mosfet is turned on it will have a Rds(on) of 1.7mOhms. I = E / R, so I = 8.4 / 0.0017, I = 4941.18A. But a mosfet is merely a switch, the load is what you want to switch and that dictates the current sunk through a n-channel mosfet. With PWM you're switching it on an off quickly giving you an average voltage, but a lot of factors come into play (mosfet dynamic characteristics) and i don't have the time to explain that all out.

Switching supplies are entirely different animals though, inductors are involved, diodes as well, physics as well. That's all beyond my skill set when it comes to rolling my own SMPS from scratch.

There are some books on it, however they tend to assume you already know a lot or have a formal education in electroncs. That and it'd coost you probably about 400 dollars for two books on the subject if you were to buy them new instead of rent them or check em out from the library.

Sorry i couldn't be of more help. And yes Vgs of 4.5V > is for switching instead of amplifying.

You'd be looking for books such as:
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Electronics-Converters-Applications-Design/dp/0471226939/

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Electronics-Basics-Principles-Applications/dp/1482298791/

Along with a good background in general electronics and design.

• DNA75 board
  
  
• Alpinetech CNC 1590G+ red for DNA75/200 enclosure
  
  
  • 2D CAD
    
    
• Varitube V1 22mm smooth top black 510
  
  
  • secured with the help of FDV's 510 Installation Tool
    
    
• IM2X18650 injection molded battery tray
  
  
  • fixed in place with clear double sided tape
    
    
  • polarity labels printed on red card stock (office supply store), front and back covered with clear masking tape, cut with exacto knife and ruler, epoxied in place
    
    
• Mounting hardware
  
  
  • http://www.mcmaster.com/#91772A051
    
    
  • http://www.mcmaster.com/#91771A053
    
    
  • http://www.mcmaster.com/#90308A902
    
    
  • http://www.mcmaster.com/#92146A510
    
    
• Template
  
  
  • print at actual scale/1:1/100% using a dedicated PDF viewer
    
    
  • drill 1/16" for screws
    
    
• Magnets
  
  
  • Lid magnets secured with red loctite using the great method by /u/ModCrate
    
    
  • Enclosure magnets epoxied with Bob Smith Industries 5 Minute Quik-Cure
    
    
• 16g silicone insulated wire from DIY-FancyLights & also Fatdaddyvapes

I just ordered components to make my first box mod, but have done small electrical work before.

Helping Hands will make your life much easier, may not be necessary if you only intend to make one mod.

a decent digital multimeter is required, as is a Soldering iron.

A Breadboard is very useful to ensure everything works as it should, before you have it all finished and put in the case.

those are all I can think of right now, sure there are others people use regularly though

> On-off slide switch - https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/612-EG1271A

>The particular supply used is 60W 12V 5A - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HHN1I0/

Awesome! Thanks for the info. If I get some extra cash, I'd love to commission a build. :)

I really like this and might use an old PSU to rig up a desktop vape.

For anyone interested you can do this with a modular computer PSU and not worry about splicing 120v lines. This PSU is capable of 35 amps on its 12v line. All you need to turn it on and off is either a permanent jumper wire and use the PSU switch, or get a switch and use it as the jumper wire. Then to connect the mod to it is as easy as trimming one set of pci wires so you only have the 12v and gnd lines. Then the mod is quickly detachable and all lines have safe connectors. That PSU also has a 3 year warranty, no idea if the other one does too.

Neither of those irons is temperature controlled. The best you're going to get out of either of those is guessing the temperature based on the voltage settings.

If you're willing to spend that much on a board I would highly recommend getting a better station such as the Hakko FX-888D.

Funny you mentioned AOYUE, i was literally looking at this when I got the notification for your comment. Any good? It says ESD safe

i just ordered a Hammond 1591BTBU there are also clear and red transparent enclosures.

They're the same sizes as the aluminum boxes but are transparent and look pretty badass when made into boxmods.

thanks. something like the Hakko CHP CSP-30-1 Wire Stripper, 30-20 Gauge Maximum Cutting Capacity should work right?


solder wick

fume extractor

All good?

Iron

For solder I would just go to RadioShack and get the thinnest stuff they have.

Edit - it's probably all they'll have, but make sure you get rosin core. Lead free or leaded is up to you.

Hakko Fx-888d best damn soldering iron I've ever owned.

Honestly, I get most of my stuff off Amazon, but that's probably because I have Prime. I've also found allelectronics.com to be pretty decent for sourcing larger quantities of heat shrink tubing, wiring, and other stuff.

This right here is amazing for as cheap as it is. I am sure that if you punch in the model number you will pull up one for the UK.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MCVCHJM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ninja edit: nvm found it for you.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soldering-Aoyue-Station-Interchangeable-PCB-Soldering/dp/B00ZA8776C/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1474631869&sr=1-1&keywords=Aoyue+469

don't buy a radioshack iron.

Grab something off amazon - they have some really cheap wellers which are probably the same price as radioshack but much better quality. (honestly if you plan on doing any of this stuff more than once, spend a little more and get a wlc100 http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395934640&sr=1-1&keywords=wlc100 I used one for a long time - it not the best, and if you look around there is probably something better and cheaper but I can personally vouch(hundreds of hours of use) for the wlc100 being a decent device.

I bought this... works great. Heats up in like 30 seconds.

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle-cutter/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1397606411&sr=1-2&keywords=hakko+soldering+station

a used hakko 936 or weller soldering station will work. also any decent weller pencil solderer will work.

Credit goes to /u/david4500

Pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/eOKIN

Parts:

• Diagram/drawing
  
  
• Layout PDF (preview)
  
  
• Battery labels 4x6" print (do not print in browser)
  
• 2 x mosfets
  
  
• 2 x 15 amp fuses (digikey link)
  
  
• Resistor
  
  
• Enclosure
  
  
• 18650 dual holder (alt 2 x keystone 1043 or 1049)
  
  
• 4 x battery contacts
  
  
• Voltmeter
  
  
• Mirrored screen protector
  
  
• Tactile switch with cap
  
  
• 510 V3 short body & 22mm washer
  
  
• 16 gauge wire - red & black
  
  
• 24 gauge wire
  
  
• Lid magnets
  
  
• Enclosure magnets
  
  
• Liquid electrical tape - red & black

you can just use those guys here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E48ERU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are cheap and very effective. Just place a bit of the tape on top of the junction that you wish to desolder and heat it up with your soldering iron. The tape is made of copper so it will suck up all the old solder. Works for me!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HKIW3ZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i got one of these, same size as a 1590b but has some tabs on the inside that need ground down.
it says its red but unless you hold it up to a light it looks more like a burgundy

In case anyone cares, I ordered this.

Only $1 more (for now) and a better PSU.

EVGA 450 BT, 80+ Bronze 450W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-BT-0450-K1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1-vgAbT5EEJ6Q

I have owned an Aoyue 937+ station for 4-5 years now, and it's treated me well. Takes hakko tips, and you can source parts for the station domestically. Amazon link here!

If you are in a hurry and want to spend a little more, Amazon. (Prime)
http://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Voltmeter-3-0~30v-Digital-Detector/dp/B00M50SEYC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-2&keywords=smakn+.28

If you're patient and frugal, Ebay. (Chinese shipping)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301015797525?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I use this iron with no issue

Aoyue 937+ Digital Soldering Station - ESD Safe includes Spare Element UPDATED VERSION!! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_yCfywb6RY1DA5

I have had this one for almost 2 years now. Does the job and does it well.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC

I could'nt find too many with that 4th pin. But here's one on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078N777R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V7-tDb3FNVRQK

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC

What do you think of this?

http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1398593835&sr=8-15&keywords=soldering+iron

I got some of this to try out. I wanted the syringe type instead of a tub and brush.

My Aoyue lasted about 5 months, it was covered under warranty but all they did was send me a replacement board that I need another iron to install. Spend the extra cash and get a Hakko: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420504863&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko

This is what I'm using, still working on my technique. The POS terminal on the sled has 4 wires soldered to it, so it doesnt look so good :P

P.S. It also doesn't help I stayed up all night building this.

Here you go! http://www.amazon.com/Amp-Non-Fusible-Safety-Switch/dp/B00002NB0H


But seriously, use a dang mosfet!

Solder sucker http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KRAAG?vs=1

I ordered some off of ebay, but I got tired of waiting, so I got this guy from amazon