(Part 2) Top products from r/PcMasterRaceBuilds

It's like a big LEGO (sort of). everything fits where it's supposed to. If you have to force too much it's not going there (except USB xD). Many manufacturers provide instructions on how to plug in your new devices into the motherboard READ the INSTRUCTIONS carefully.

Also, remember to discharge static electricity from your hands by touching something metallic before manipulation electronic components. (You don't want to short-circuit your newly acquired RAM because you weren't careful enough).

Maintenance wise, compressed air dusters like those (https://www.amazon.com/Dust-Off-Compressed-Gas-Duster-Pack/dp/B00DZYEXPQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487178003&sr=1-1&keywords=compressed+air+for+computers) just an example can help you reach hard places and NEVER EVER use a cloth to clean dust. It will create static electricity and short-circuit your components.

Remember to plugin the power cord after you've successfully connected every component to the motherboard. When changing something always power down you computer and remove every cable.

For any other questions feel free to search on google on website like wikihow, lifehacker and reddit :)

Cheers, hope it helps

> Pentium is better. You even admit to this in another post. Not much more expensive either. If you are thinking of using the bottom of the barrel of Celeron's, then be my guest, but i would never recommend it, even to someone i hate.

Celerons are sufficient. They don't need anything more, frankly. It does the job, and probably no worse than the Pentium.

>If your using Seagate, your already doing it wrong.

Bad grammar aside, I'm not a big fan of Seagate because I find them loud and not as fast, but the SSD takes care of the speed issue, and cost is more important. Barracudas are good, and I know there used to be issues a long time ago back in '07. I love WD and only use their drives, but this isn't about my personal use. It's for everyday customers. I actually use the Blue, but the Barracuda is cheaper, particularly if you look at the 2 TB model compared to WD's slow Green.

Why in the world would you go Mini-ITX? No. That makes the motherboard unnecessarily expensive, the case awkwardly shaped for the setups I know, and heavily restricts upgradeability. Micro-ATX is much better if you want to go small but still be affordable. I've already made a build for a customer with a motherboard like this and this case, which I really adore because it's nice to work with and looks good.

> If you want integrated graphics, you might as well just go use an APU instead

For everyday use, you could even get by on motherboard integrated graphics, not even Haswell's pretty decent integrated graphics for this purpose. FFS, I saw people running Minecraft on old Sandy Bridge integrated graphics decently, and Haswell's offerings are far superior. Unless they specifically ask, they don't need a dedicated GPU. That's an unnecessary expense, and you should never buy a GPU that low-end. I thought that was common knowledge. I mean...wow. Just wow. Your inclusion of the GPU makes me seriously doubt your knowledge of building. Don't be rude if you don't have a clue what you're doing, and you're just making it more apparent. This doesn't seem to be the place for you.

>You don't NEED windows.

They do. It's for everyday users, remember? They've got work to do, and you'd be amazed at how much important software for an office job is Windows-only. They want familiar. They don't want to deal with the oddities of Linux.
/r/softwareswap was what I used to use, until they banned the distribution of Windows keys.

>All you seem to want is something that can run facebook and maybe skype, along with possibly solitaire.

Ugh, so why did you type all that out because you didn't read my post?

Here's my suggestion:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | $144.98 @ DirectCanada
Motherboard | ASRock H110M-DGS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $39.98 @ NCIX
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $44.99 @ Newegg Canada
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $61.94 @ Vuugo
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon RX 470 4GB NITRO+ Video Card | $284.99 @ Newegg Canada
Case | Rosewill FBM-02 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $29.99 @ Newegg Canada
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $55.37 @ DirectCanada
Monitor | Acer G226HQLBbd 21.5" 60Hz Monitor | $109.99 @ NCIX
Keyboard | Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard | $12.98 @ NCIX
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $810.21
| Mail-in rebates | -$25.00
| Total | $785.21
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-15 13:32 EDT-0400 |

I never realized how weak the Canadian dollar is, I was really surprised at how much less it gets you. This is based on the "Crusher" build from the /r/pcmasterrace wiki, plus a keyboard and monitor. I don't have any direct experience with any of these parts besides the monitor, which I got for my girlfriend's computer build (and it's a great monitor at that price)

If you're looking to spend more, the first places to do it are

1. Better motherboard
   
2. Better keyboard
   
3. Better processor
   
   Now for other recommendations. I stream on twitch as well, (mostly World of Tanks and other games), and I mostly use a Logitech G430 as my headphones/mic. If you're looking for a new mouse, Redragon makes really great mice at really good prices, I use a Redragon Perdition as my primary mouse for gaming, a Redragon Nemeanlion at work, and a Redragon Centrophorus for my secondary computer (used as a server and for doing distributed computing). For a webcam, I use a Logitech C920

I agree with the feedback given above. I just built my first PC and all I needed was a #2 Phillips screwdriver, but I will say that having magnetic one was a HUGE help. I used this one and it worked great. Since I don't have access to Ethernet in the room where my PC is, I just made sure to get a Wi-Fi enabled motherboard. Usually it will say somewhere in the description if it is Wi-Fi enabled. As soon as I went to install Windows it was able to detect nearby networks (but I did update all drivers just to be sure).

Yeah, thanks, as i'm using a laptop, i won't be doing any upgrades soon, thats why i wanted to get some ram. You pretty much solved all my doubts, the thing i was worried about the most was compability issues, but you solved that too. Its fairly simple to change it and i won't be voiding the warranty as i already had to change the fan myself, so i won't have any problems.

The only remaining thing is to think which one will i buy, as i don't really know what the specs mean. After some research i preselected this ones, and according to your list they have some of the lowest price per gb. Which one would be the best. They pretty much seem the same to me, only that the hyperx ones have a wider range.

http://www.amazon.es/dp/B00KQCOV5C/?tag=pcp02-21

http://www.amazon.es/dp/B0076W9Q5A/?tag=pcp02-21

^^^The ^^^links ^^^are ^^^on ^^^spanish, ^^^sorry.

I understand you want the absolute highest value FPS per dollar build but putting about 90% load on a psu that's as low quilty as EVGA 450B is a pretty bad idea. You're getting a 1080TI I'm pretty sure buying a 40-60$ PSU won't hurt your wallet that much.
Modular PSU-Newegg-Seasonic M12ii 620W/ Amazon-Seasonic M12ii 620W-60$
Non-Modular Seasonic S12ii 520w -45$

Also another issue here is your motherboard. Your motherboard might or might not come with bios updated that lets you use kaby lake cpus with it. If it does then you're good if it doesn't then you'll need to update the bios with a skylake cpu. I recommend Ryzen 5 1600 over the 7700. You can oc it to 3.9Ghz with the stock cooler and it'll be cheaper.

Thanks a lot for the feedback, very much appreciated! Regarding the power supply, what's wrong with this one? I only ask to know what I should be looking for instead of this one ;)

For roughly the same price, and same wattage, also bronze certified, there's also:

• https://www.amazon.fr/XFX-P1-650S-NLB9-Alimentation-Bronze-garantie/dp/B0045L5LGI/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1464678972&sr=1-3&keywords=atx+650W+bronze
  
• https://www.amazon.fr/XFX-P1-650X-XXB9-Alimentation-Semi-modulaire-garantie/dp/B008O50WKG/ref=sr_1_5?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1464678972&sr=1-5&keywords=atx+650W+bronze
  
  Are one of those preferable? Or is it the wattage that you would recommend changing (increasing?)
  
  Otherwise, there's https://www.amazon.fr/EVGA-SuperNOVA-110-B2-0850-V2-Alimentation-Noir/dp/B00N4UW4GG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464679253&sr=8-2&keywords=EVGA+850W which is more expensive, but that you recommend in one of the builds I believe, would you recommend this one instead?

I talked with a friend last night and I am confident that this is what I am going to go with. What do you think?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BZNDOO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

With this mount

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009S750LA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3W3STWCK1O3NR

Best thing to do is reapply it. Get some Artic Silver 5 and a coffee filter and Some [99%] Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the old thermal paste off with and re apply the cooler.

At which point it's not a bad idea to get an aftermarket cooler to have temps even lower and possible OC in the future [assuming you have a Z97 [or possible a quality Z87] mobo]

With a stock cooler I'd expect idle temps with stock settings for a 4790k to be in the 40Cs area with room temp in the mid 20s and with an aftermarket cooler [witch do in most cases, including this one I recommend come with it's own thermal paste which you can use instead] around low to mid 30s.

Thank you! Was a little overwhelmed by all the information. Let PC-part-picker choose some of the parts and didn't look into it. You are totally right, they do seem cheap! :D Will probably change it for: Seasonic M12II EVO 520 SS-520GM2 520W 80+ Bronze EVO Edition ATX12V & EPS12V Full Modular

I have the Focus G Mini - the front fans and fan bay on it are screwed in with threaded screws - I suspect this is what you have with the fan you'd like to move?

All the other fan bays are the more traditional type, where they're just holes basically, and you use a self-tapping screw that sticks in through the hole, and makes it's own thread in the plastic hole of the fan.

These, are an example of what you need:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Mounting-Case-Fan-Screws-Silver/dp/B0002AFTD6

FYI, this is the PSU I have

For an external one I use this Anker one. Works perfectly for me after a few years of very regular use.

I don't know any internal ones :(

Is built-in wifi compatibility a must? If not, I'd go for the Biostar X370GTN instead, because it has an m.2 slot on the back, and then you could swap out that sata ssd for an m.2 one for the same price.

If you still need wifi, you could get an edimax wifi dongle like this one. I have one of these that I've treated none too well and it still works just fine.

Edit: also, reddit ate your formatting.

First of all, use a 500-550 watt power supply. Of you use a 750 watt psu for this build, you're just wasting money as more capacity doesn't mean better performance. Generally,you should use the lowest power supply that is higher than the max power draw of your build. 500 watts is fine. Also, get a 120 gb or 250 GB SSD and then a 1tb or 2tb hard drive. If you store your games on an ssd, they will only get a minor decrease in load times. However, your os will improve drastically. This is a very good 1tb hard drive. Get a b150 or a b250 if you don't plan on over clocking your cpu, otherwise you're fine.optical drives are useless. Get an nzxt s340 case. They're cheaper and better.

this

EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750 W. It is linked here

Links for other parts: Storage- https://www.amazon.com/HGST-Ultrastar-3-5-Inch-Enterprise-0A39289/dp/B0046TCOO6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522103471&sr=1-1&keywords=hgst+ultrastar+3.5+1tb Monitor- https://www.amazon.com/HP-23-8-inch-Adjustment-Speakers-VH240a/dp/B072M34RQC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522103931&sr=1-2&keywords=monitor Power Supply- https://www.amazon.com/SeaSonic-550-Watt-CrossFire-Certified-SSR-550RM/dp/B00918MEZG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522104001&sr=1-1&keywords=seasonic+g+series+550w

https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Holding-Posts-Faceplate-66026/dp/B002GO8XSO

I don't know if LINDY is a brand name or what, but that came up with some stuff. I just searched for "monitor cable screws".

Let me get this straight, your GPU requires 8 pin connector, right? And your PSU only has 6? If so, that means if the GPU requires more power and the PSU cant deliver, the GPU won't perform optimally or might even crash.

Something like this should work to fully power your GPU