(Part 2) Top products from r/Pets

FEEDING

>Every time I've fed him, he's thrown up.

How long has this been going on? If it has happened for more than a couple days you REALLY need to get to the bottom of this. A vet check would be prudent to rule out worms or any other gastric issues. What food are you feeding? How much? How often?

Puppies should be getting 3 meals a day. Free feeding should be avoided. If your puppy is eating too quickly consider getting a puzzle toy, making him earn most of his food through training or hand feeding or getting a special feeder (you can also use a muffin tray as a cheap remedy)

Check out the food you are feeding on Dog Food Advisor. Then compare it to the 4 star and 5 star food lists.

WHEN you feed is also an important consideration. Wait at least 30-60 minutes to feed after heavy activity.


HOUSE TRAINING

>I've been making sure to punish him accordingly (push his nose into the pee/poo, yelling at him, and taking him outside)

You should NOT be doing this! You are not teaching him that going to the bathroom in the house is bad - you are ONLY teaching him that going to the bathroom IN FRONT OF YOU IS DANGEROUS. If he has an accident in the house it is YOUR fault for not being around to let him out or watching him closely enough. Push your own nose in it as you are the only one who is failing.

A puppy is a baby - at 12 weeks they can only hold it for a maximum of 3 hours when they are inactive and usually only 30mins-1hour when they are active. They need to be supervised AT ALL TIMES or left in a puppy safe area (but not for any longer than they can physically hold it).

You do not need any "homemade tech" - you just need to manage his environment more! Look into Crate Training, clean up pet messes immediately with an enzymatic cleaner, and get him on a schedule (which is sounds like you are sort of doing - but if he is still having accidents he may need to go out more frequently or you need to do a better part of watching him/being around on time). Rewarding him with a high value treat when he goes outside IS correct - but stop punishing him when he makes a mistake!

See: Errorless House Training, House Training a Puppy and ASPCA House Training your Dog (this one covers the 'why' behind the effectiveness or lack-there-of for certain 'old school' methods - like paper training and rubbing your dogs nose in waste).


BITING/CHEWING
> He does seem pretty obedient when I catch him trying to chew, as he will stop when I yell at him and he will leave it alone.

You are focusing waaay too much on punishment. Again, your dog is a baby - he does not KNOW that your flip flops are valuable to you. He just knows he is a puppy and he is teething and this weird piece of foam and plastic feels good to chew on. Yelling at him just makes you scary and dangerous and is not actually TEACHING him what he SHOULD be doing. Look for opportunities to teach, not to punish.

Pick up and store everything that you do not want your pup to chew on - this includes making sure shoes are put away, paper is out of reach and any other 'favorite' non-appropriate chews are stored in a drawer, closet or on a high shelf (this is basic puppy proofing). If there is a room with a lot of items you cannot store that he tends to chew on - block access to that room with gates or doors (or ensure he is on leash and closely supervised when in these areas).

If you catch him chewing on something he should not - use a positive interrupter and replace the object with something he SHOULD be chewing on. Play with him a bit with the new object and encourage him to seek these items out. Reward him with small treats whenever you catch him 'being good' (playing with appropriate toys instead of your shoes) and take breaks to play with him when you see him doing these things as often as you can. You want to teach him that playing with these objects is rewarding and gets him attention. Some dogs will seek out 'off limits' items just because it gets your attention so effectively. Try to ignore him or use a positive interrupter and redirect to a new object. Going into a different room, waiting a few seconds and calling the puppy to you is a good way to redirect him away from the object without giving him direct attention. NEVER chase a dog with an object in their mouth the should not have - that just makes it a game for them! Unless the object is immediately dangerous, try to convince them to drop it on their own and make a big deal about them choosing a better chew.

Make sure there are several toys that he enjoys chewing on available at all times. You may also want to use natural chews like Bully Sticks or Trachea to help encourage positive chewing habits. Things like ice cubes or damp, frozen rags are great chews for pups with sore mouths from teething.

CRATE TRAINING/SLEEPING

This is totally normal for puppies. They are alone for the first time in their lives and that is really scary to them!

A properly sized crate should be just big enough for puppy to stand, sit, lay down and turn around in. Any bigger and they have the opportunity to use a corner for a bathroom and sleep on the other side. The purpose of the smaller crate size is to discourage them from having accidents and to learn to hold their bladder.

That being said, remember a puppy of this age can only hold it for a few hours! You will likely need to take him out at least once in the night until he is old enough to hold it longer.

You need to ensure that NO attention is given to the puppy while he is in the crate and crying. This becomes a bit of a trick as you need to be SURE he isn't crying to go out to the bathroom. The general rule is:

• If the pup has been out in the last 30-60 minutes, ignore
  
• If the pup has NOT been out, take him DIRECTLY outside on leash, give him 5-10minutes to do his business. If he does, you can give him a small treat then RIGHT back inside in his crate to sleep. No pets, not excessive attention, no play time. Potty. Crate. That is all fussing gets.
  
• If the pup carries on for more than 10 minutes or so, it may be worth taking them outside (see bullet #2) to make sure they are 'empty'. Again, they have 5-10 minutes to go. If they do, treat, inside. If they dont? They go back in the crate. No treat.
  
• If you are 100% sure the pup does not need to go to the bathroom, you MUST absolutely ignore the pup. No yelling ("QUIET!" "SHUT UP!"), No hitting the crate, no eye contact, try not to walk by the crate, etc. Pretend like you absolutely cannot hear him. It is hard the first few nights, but if you are absolutely consistent, the behavior WILL stop.
  
• If he is quiet in his crate (and people are awake) give him some small treats and attention to reinforce that behavior.
  
  It can help if you have his crate in the same room while you sleep so he doesn't feel so alone. Blankets also help if he is being over stimulated by the environment.
  
  GENERAL
  
  Be sure the puppy is getting plenty of exercise, training and attention. If you are working 8 hours every single night and sleeping during the day - puppy can be left with a lot of 'free time' which can lead to behavior issues. Puppies DO sleep a lot, but they should be getting at least 30-60 minutes of activity every 2 hours or so (between naps) and (ideally) have a max of 8 hours 'quiet time' during traditional sleeping hours.
  
  Here is a list of resources I would strongly encourage you look at - in addition to getting him into a puppy kindergarten class:
  
  
• /r/puppy101 (read the lessons on the sidebar)
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Wiki
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Book List
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Online Resources
  
  
• Dog training wiki - nipping
  
  
• Dog training wiki - house training
  
  
• The Digital Dog Training Textbook
  
  
• Ian Dunbar - Training Bite Inhibition
  
  
• Kikopup Training Videos
  
  
• Kikopup - Clicker Training
  
  
• Kikopup - Puppy Playlist
  
  
• Dont Shoot the Dog (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• The Power of Positive Dog Training (book)

Okay, I have a few bits of advice for you.

First things first, I know it's hard to do emotionally, but you've got to stop leaving dry food out for your cats all day. I had a professor once who was a cat behaviorist and he put it like this, "People feed horses like they should feed cats, and cats like they should feed horses." Meaning that horses are grazers and should have food all day, not just at certain times of the day. On the opposing side, cats are hunters and should be fed only at certain times of day, and not have food out constantly (which should also help with weight management for your kitty darlings in general, since it's so important to keep them at a healthy weight as they get older anyway!) AND this SHOULD make your roomie's cat less interested in getting into your room-if he realizes there is no reward on the other side of the door.

ALSO-as far as your room-mate's cat goes, you're right, she shouldn't be giving him tastes. Not just for your sake and your kitties' sake, but for her own cat's sake as well. Human food can be bad for kitties for a number of reasons and it's safest just to keep him away from it. Not to mention, like you said, it teaches him bad manners.

Now here's the tough part. It may sound ridiculous but obviously you need to talk to your roomie about this situation, which is conflict and awkward and horrible to deal with, I know. I really recommend looking up and doing some reading today on how to talk to people while avoiding conflict. There's stuff all over the internet about it, and it's a bit too hard for me to explain. Basically, not only is it a good life skill to have, but obviously you want to be able to talk to her about it without her getting upset or feeling personally attacked. Because cats are like your children, and people can easily get offended when they feel their "parenting" is being criticized. So I really, really, really recommend looking up just some general communication tips so you can talk this over with her without it being awkward or confrontational.

Also, here are some things that MAY help if you mention when you're talking to her (disclaimer: I don't know her, so you may have to cherry-pick things here that you think would help convince her):
-I don't know if her cat is overweight, but I think it's important to mention that even though fat cats are adorable and wonderful and everything, it's really not in their best interests to be overweight; just as with humans. Having a healthier relationship with food will help keep him at a healthy weight and can really help him live longer, as well as save her money (him maintaining a healthy weight can really keep down diseases and other things that cost lots of money.)
-I'd suggest this cat get fed separately from his brother, and given a toy such as this one:

http://www.redferret.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/e96a_stimulo_cat_bowl.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/Aikiou-Stimulo-Activity-Center-Green/dp/B00D91CQMW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_petsupplies_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QE1JPXJM0J0SEXG885N


http://www.amazon.com/Northmate-Catch-Interactive-Feeder-Cats/dp/B00EB4IV2A/ref=pd_sim_sbs_petsupplies_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QE1JPXJM0J0SEXG885N

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fg-ec2.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FG%2F01%2Fkolpakov%2Forangeslimcat._V398607070_.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FPetsafe-SlimCat-Meal-Dispensing-Blue%2Fdp%2FB0018CG40O&h=475&w=425&tbnid=eW1exz5JYvZ6FM%3A&zoom=1&docid=ZJge0SV6zuaQ1M&ei=-OAnVPjaF4f4yAS13oCgDg&tbm=isch&ved=0CCwQMygOMA4&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=1275&page=1&start=0&ndsp=20

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003H44R5K/ref=gl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=VQZ0PRAGLUYB&coliid=I12NBLS87B4NXX

All of those are designed to slow a cat down while eating, while at the same time giving them the same mental stimulation that comes with play. This would make him eat slower, which is better for weight management as well as helping him to feel full and satisfied (if he ever does) and would keep him occupied enough for everyone else to finish eating before he could even think of getting to them. Not to mention it's fun for them! I don't know if you're willing to do this, but you could buy one of those options and give it to her as a gift, under the presumption that it is so he will leave his brother alone (I'm sure since they're both her children she probably doesn't like it when he bosses the brother around). It really is probably best to feed him alone, to prevent him from getting into anyone else's business and also would make life easier for your roomie, too.

Sorry about the book I just wrote.

I think as long as you give your new friend a lot of one-on-one time with you, and put up things like a cat tree and maybe a windowsill hammock for sun-bathing (like this: https://www.amazon.com//dp/B00FDU5JO4), a kitty would do just fine in your apartment, fully indoors. With plenty of love from you when you're home and toys to play with when you're gone, kitty will be okay alone during the day- although they do love company, so if it's possible to get 2 at the same time, who are already bonded, that would be ideal. Honestly 2 cats is really not much more effort than 1, you just have to budget a little more for food, vet, litter, etc.

The whole indoor/outdoor argument is really a personal choice- some people think it's cruel to keep cats inside all the time, some think it's the best and safest place for pet cats. I have had 4 indoor-only cats with me in as small a space as 450 sq ft (temporarily) and none of them is the worse for it. They're spoiled rotten and don't seem to realize that the outside world is anything more than a giant entertainment screen to be looked at through the back door for their amusement.

The only thing is, do not let a cat out onto the balcony unsupervised at the 5th floor, a fall from that height could be disastrous or even fatal. There are some cool cat tents you could use for some fresh air time though, they're small enough to fit on an apartment balcony. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KWHE1E

And last of all, thank you for saying you'd like to adopt a cat. If you don't have a ton of time and energy to chase around a blazing ball of fluff and attitude, you may want to get an older cat rather than a kitten. Even by age 2 they've calmed down considerably from their demonic-possession kittenhood (and I say that in the most loving way possible), while still being lively and ready to play at the drop of a hat.

Best of luck to you. If you do get a fuzzball (or two) be sure to update and let us know!

• For future reference: for each cat you have, make sure to have +1 litter box for the total amount of cats you have. For instance, you have one right now? Try to have 2 if you have the space for it.
  
  
• Doggy bags have been great for us when cleaning our cat's litter contents (lol), but we also invested in a litter genie which is honestly the best purchase. This litter deodorizer comes at a close second.
  
  
• The Furminator is great for brushing, but some cats don't like it. Mine likes the Kong Brush, but we also tested out grooming mitts and fine tooth combs too. It completely depends on your little one.
  
  
• I've seen a few comments on r/pets about Blue Buffalo dry food being tied to more urine crystals, but I generally try to limit how much dry food I give my cat since she doesn't tend to go to her drinking fountain as often as we'd like.
  
  
• If you haven't already got a cat tree/scratchpost/tower, check out your local Marshalls or TJ Maxx. They have really great options and for much cheaper than some pet stores and they're usually assembled.
  
  

This approach may take some time, but my cat eventually learned that if I am in the bedroom with the light off and fan on (its an oscillating one that makes a fairly strong humming sound), I am down for the night and it'll be at least a few hours before I come back. After a few weeks of this routine, he gave up on screaming outside my door. The bedroom is off-limits to him at all times, as well. If I'm in there with the light on, he will meow at me, because he knows I'm likely to come back soon.

Mine's a door-rattler, too - he can fit his paw in the crack under the bedroom door and wrap it around the door. To protect the bottom of the door from his claws, I put some rubber weatherstripping on it. For the floor, consider getting a protective film to put down where she usually scratches. Hardware stores sell them to use during painting / construction, and many of them are affordable and tear-resistant.

It may be inconvenient, but do your best to cat-proof the house so you can ignore her acting out with minimal collateral damage. Keep anything fragile in drawers or cabinets unless you're actively using it. Consider making the bedroom a no-cat zone and putting as many valuables as possible in there. Don't leave food or drinks unattended - if you have to step away, stick them in the fridge or a cabinet while you're gone.

Also consider an electronic toy that moves around or something more interactive that will keep her engaged at night or while you're busy without the need for a human to facilitate playtime. Here are a few ideas::

https://www.amazon.com/SmartyKat-Feather-Whirl-Electronic-Motion/dp/B00KQGRIKI/

https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP7F8YC

https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Tracks-Track-Interactive-Petstages/dp/B00DT2WL26

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714D3FDT?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DJ6XW

https://www.amazon.com/Hex-480-3030-Nano-Assorted-Styles/dp/B01B45AMIO/

Also, if she ignores the scratching post but loves to tear the crap out of your floor, she may prefer a horizontal scratcher. One wasted $30 scratching post later, I figured that out about my cat. Something like these would be worth a try:

https://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Colors-vary/dp/B000IYSAIW - doubles as a toy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YQ5KJM/ - this one is nice because you can lay it flat on the floor, prop it up at an angle with the cardboard flap, or hang it from a doorknob to see which works best. Also comes with catnip to sprinkle inside it. These have corrugated cardboard surfaces and don't last as long as carpet or sisal rope, but my cat seems more satisfied with something he can actually destroy. He'll jump on it, attack it with his claws, then roll around in the bits he tore off. You will vacuum a lot of cardboard flakes off the floor as it starts to wear out, but for me it's worth the trouble. If you don't like the mess, you can buy this one to test whether horizontal, inclined, or hung against the wall works best, then invest in a similar style of scratcher made from more durable material. That was my plan, but he just loves this stuff so much I order one as an add-on every month when I buy litter.

Modern guinea pig cages are huge, and many people now use fleece bedding. My cage has four Fleece Flipper floor panels and one kitchen area that I cover with Carefresh bedding. I ordered the cage here: http://www.guineapigcages.com/ There are also DIY instructions there, if you want to buy the parts for less at Home Depot.

This approach is a little expensive to start, but it's super easy to keep clean. I sweep the flippers every morning (five minutes), change the Carefresh bedding every week (5-10 minutes) and I swap in clean flippers and put the dirty ones through washing machine every other week.

No guinea pig rescue will give you one guinea pig unless you already have one. I paid our local rescue $100 for a bonded pair of neutered male and female. I guess a same-sex pair that is not neutered would cost less. You can find a rescue at this link: http://www.guinealynx.info/rescue_organizations.html

...adding: I see you asked about a carrier. This one is perfect for two guinea pigs: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062JFGM0 and this mat fits well: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y8YK2W

Hey! Sounds like you have definitely started on some good research! Your mom should not have to worry about rabies with your hedgie, unless it has access to wildlife, like raccoons and possums. Your hedgie should be kept indoors or supervised when outside, so I can't forsee there being any issues. A lot of people build their own cages, but I prefer this one here. In fact, that is the type of cage I have had since I got mine five years ago. I would recommend, however, that you use fleece blankets to line the cage instead of woodchips. I don't forsee it being a problem with a female, but a male hedgehog can absolutely get woodchips stuck in their penile shafts. Mine is blind, so his cage is pretty bare, but for a healthy hedgie, I would keep a wheel, an igloo or something for him to hide in, toys (I used kitty kongs, and little jinlgy cat toys that looked like ping pong balls).

There are a lot of good resources on this website. It has everything from what to feed, how to build cages, veterinarians that have knowledge of hedgies in your area, and the like.

The biggest key is to give your hedgie lots of time to adjust to you and warm up to you. Some of them take a lot of time to be socialized, and sometimes it just isn't going to happen. Some of them just have a pretty grumpy disposition. I bathe mine every couple of months, but I let him walk around in some warm water more frequently than that to wash off his "poopy boots".

I feed mine cat food (Purina One Chicken & Rice), but there are a variety of options. You can treat them with mealworms and other little snacks. Hedgehog Central really was the most useful source for me, though, when I was considering purchasing my baby.

I have a cat that gets crystals, that I have to constantly manage. However, to properly know how to manage it, you need to find out if your cat has struvite or calcium oxalate crystals. Mine has had struvites, which I think is a bit easier to manage.

A few things I've learned about struvites:

• Cats dont' naturally drink a lot of water - they are supposed to get most of their water from food. A running water system (like a fountain, mentioned by renspets) is great for encouraging drinking. However, you need to stop feeding dry food completely, and feed only canned food to really get the most water into your friend. (this goes for both types of crystals)
  
  
• They are primarily caused by too much magnesium. Your vet will probably put you on a special diet (with very low magnesium). However, this is all in all crappy food, and very expensive. What I've found that works is checking food labels (canned, not dry, remember?) and don't get anything with fish or seafood (which have very high levels of magnesium). I've also heard wellness brand has high mag levels, which I don't know for sure, but I do know most of their stuff has fish in it. If I feed only fish and seafood-free food, the cat is fine no crystals at all. Stupidly, one day several years after the first bought with crystals I thought I should give them more variety, and bought a bunch of different flavors, including fish stuff. Within a few months, she had crystals again. We returned for a few months to the prescription diet, then I weaned her off of it onto EVO canned food (no fish or seafood contents this time!) and she's been fine since. Moral of the story: You don't need the Rx food, as long as you feed canned food without magnesium (which largely comes from seafood ingredients).
  
  A great book to read about cat health (written by a vet that takes a more "whole cat" approach, looking largely at feed) is Your Cat. It really does a great job at dissecting the current state of feline diets, and the role they play in many feline illnesses. I HIGHLY recommend it.
  
  Good luck!
  

I work in the veterinary field and at my hospital we have strong opinions about cat carriers. The best, in my opinion, are the hard-sided ones that open both on the front and on the top. It's easy to get the cat in and out via the top door, it's roomy and stable (won't fall over or get crushed), and it's easy to clean if the pet urinates or defecates in it. I have this one (in addition to four others, some soft-sided) and am very happy with it. You can put a towel or blanket in it to make it comfier for the cat.

Edited to add that I'm also a fan of the last one you posted, mostly because the top is very easy to remove and put back on and it meets all the other criteria above for hard-sided carriers.

Get them to a vet for a checkup, and then yes get better food. But if they're overweight and have been on supermarket kibble they've likely got some health issues. Also, keeping something that smells like the grandmother around for them will help them transition into you and your hubby and dog moving into their home and her being gone. Feliway may also be a good idea to get as well.

​

And exercise them! I got this for my cats and they adore it: https://www.amazon.com/Petstages-Tower-Tracks-Track-Interactive/dp/B00DT2WL26/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cat+ball+tower+toy&qid=1556837834&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

They play with it for a long time! And there's also a laser thing you can get that moves without you having to do anything but turn it on, that way if you don't have time to play, or aren't feeling well, they still get their exercise! Cats also love bubbles and they make Catnip bubbles!

​

Lastly, if you'd like I can knit you a toy for them and send it your way. Shouldn't cost me too much to ship. (I'm offering to send it for free) I make Pokeball cat toys, F-Bomb cat toys, and little knitted mice. While they're safe for cats, as with any toy with parts than can be possibly digested, I advise you to monitor the pet when they're playing with them. You can see what they look like here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/KleineMouskin

​

If you want me to send you one for them, shoot me a pm!

2 days? perfectly normal for many cats. as others have already said, you have nothing to worry about. I'm just going to echo what others have said: let him have hidey holes, and make sure there are accessible perches that are even higher than you so kitty can watch everything when he decides to come out.

Maybe every once in a while lay down near his hole, and lay down some treats, maybe in a little line from right near the entrance to right up next to you. Close your eyes, take a little nap or something, let him explore in his own good time. Then get up and leave after a while (15 minutes or more) if he hasn't come to you. But don't stare at him or watch him during this time. Do that every few days just to see how close to you he's come in eating the treats.

also, regarding water, i STRONGLY recommend this water fountain. it's great, easy to clean, doesn't need to be cleaned often, and most cats love it. healthier to have moving water too.

My cat is some sort of world destroyer, too. I've had success with field hockey balls and ping pong balls. While the ping pong balls don't last quite as long, they are insanely cheap. I leave them propped on shelves and things all over the house for her to find, and she basically plays teeball with them.

this is pretty much the most awesome toy ever. You can configure different shapes for the track, and while she bites it and plays rough, it's really held up well. She goes absolutely positively insane for this thing. The ball inside moves fast, and there's a slight incline at each end that will send it back to her. It's awesome. We bought a second track with hills and made a really long one. It's awesome for my super energetic cat.

How comfortable s she with touching her paws? I'd suggest soft paws if she's comfortable, or you could have the vet do it for you. They still allow cats to retract their claws, so they're humane, but they can't scratch up your apartment. I suggest this only because it seems so stressful & it's a quick fix for now.

For food, maybe a toy that forces your cat to play with it would fit her personality. Maybe a cat toy like this, or this? You'd have the problem of her knocking them around... but well, that's the point. It's meant to be enriching & fun for a cat like yours. You can put a food mat underneath it, so that when treats fall you don't have to worry about your floor getting dirty.

I don't have any advice for the water dish though, since you already switched it to a heavier one. Good luck!

It will take a while while they both adjust. I was in a similar position; my female cat could have been better and we wondered if she needed a friend. We got one, a kitten, and did the long method of introduction (which involves keeping the new cat/kitten in a separate room for about a week! I can go into more detail if you want). It went well. They are good friends now, and my first cat has benefitted immensely from having a companion.

It's a tough choice; if they don't get along, neither will be happy (not to mention YOU won't be happy either!). But if they do, you could be providing a richer environment for your existing kitty, and saving another from the shelter.

If you are unsure, I would see what options the shelter has, like if, after a month, you know it's not going to work, can they take the kitty back. That would suck for the cat from the shelter, but in the end they should go to a home where they'd work out forever.

Oh I have a suggestion- to make the transition easier for both animals, try getting a pheromone diffuser- I did it and I think it helped in the adjustment process. Feliway was what I used and I will recommend it! It doesn't work for every cat, but if it does it really works. It worked for my problem cat and made quite a difference.

I hope you try getting a second cat and that it works out. Good luck!

I second a more elaborate tower or tree!

I replied to a post similar to this so I'm just gonna yank that answer because these products might be handy for you to consider too, especially if you don't have the time, space, or funds to get a second cat (it's also not a guarantee they'll get along):

What about toys you can hang off door knobs or the tops of doors that mimic you on the other end?

http://www.amazon.com/Ethical-A-Door-Able-Bouncing-Assorted-Colors/dp/B0002DJ6XW

http://www.entirelypets.com/playsqueakhanger.html

http://lovemeow.com/2009/12/fun-toy-fling-ama-string

Then there are some good play toys that can be enjoyed solo or with you. Our cats love these Sproket straws because they're woven and bouncy, so the weave can catch in their claws as they bat at it, which lets them toss it around in the air and chase after it on their own, which is like a step up from normal straws (which can also be a good time):

http://petvalu.com/cat/toys/product/52261/super-kitty-sprokets-max-co

Tracks like these can be a lot of fun for cats even on their own:

http://petvalu.com/cat/toys/product/53409/senses-play-circuit-catit

http://www.amazon.ca/Bergan-70128-Turbo-Scratcher-Colors/dp/B000IYSAIW

If weight/diet isn't an issue and he is food motivated, you can get a treat ball:

http://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dpets&field-keywords=treat%20ball&sprefix=treat+b%2Cpets

We got the purple Kong one with one hole from Petsmart for $6. I "reinforced" mine with tape so it takes longer and more rolling to get the kibble out, but a palm full (0.5 oz) of kibble keeps my younger cat busy for half an hour, and then she stops and goes back to it occasionally throughout the night for short bursts. Definitely keeps her busy.

Our cats really like hanging out and chasing toys in and out of this too: http://www.petsmart.com/cat/toys/toys-r-us-tunnel-pop-up-cat-toy-zid36-11815/cat-36-catid-200099

Water pistols were very effective for me when my cat went through that phase. We kept one on each side of the door and squirted him when he bolted. He learned very quickly and the training lasted his whole life. 15+ years later, he'd cautiously and slowly walk towards open doors but never cross the threshold.

I did fulfill his desire for the outside with a pet tent when he was older - always under supervision and using his carrier to transport him back and forth. I avoided the cat leash as I didn't want him to think he was free to roam around outside.

Good luck!

After driving from AZ to upstate NY with 4 cats last summer by myself, I think I'm qualified to answer this question!

After doing lots of research I bought this Petego Pet Tube Kennel and it worked out great! I didn't buy the optional cushions, I just put a plush king blanket in there. It zips on both sides and has handles to carry. With you and your husband you'd easily be able to carry 3 cats in and out of hotels. I think my cats really liked it most because there was plenty of room and they could cuddle with each other.

I have an SUV so I had lots of room, I put all my boxes and stuff I was bringing in the back and then put the tube in lengthwise, with ends toward front of car and back, not side to side, it just worked out better for me that way.

Since it was such a long trip I didn't want them to be stuffed in the kennel all the time so I rigged a cargo net around the driver's seat and had suction cups and clips to pull it around all the way and attach to the window so the driver's compartment was completely enclosed. That way I could stop for gas and meals without having to worry about one of them jumping out, which was my biggest fear. It took me awhile to engineer before I left but it worked wonders. Before final stops for the night I'd pull over and wrestle them all into the kennel before opening any doors.

For the trip - Disposable kitty litter trays are a must. Portion their cat food into ziplock baggies. If you intend on letting them out at all in the vehicle as I did then cover everything with sheets. If you're going to keep them in kennels bring extra pads and stuff for the inside so if they soil them you can change them out. Bring plenty of garbage bags to keep anything soiled in until you can wash.

It was hard finding pet friendly hotels along the way but I did manage it. I wanted to keep driving until I felt I had to stop so I didn't make reservations, just started calling hotels for availability I had previously researched in each city I thought I might stop in. I brought my own sheets and mostly stayed in cheap roadway inns with decent reviews that had exterior rooms to make it easy to get in and out. Bring a hand held vacuum too. You won't believe the mess your cats will make in the hotel room with their food and litter box. I also vacuumed as much hair as I could as well, I didn't think it was fair to leave a big mess for the staff (I'm a hotel manager myself). I would put the cats in the car and do a quick vacuum of the room before I left. The vac also came in handy when I had to leave the room and come back. I turned it on when I was about to open the door to scare them from trying to dart out. It worked wonders!

Also buy one of those $10 cardboard scratch pads from Walmart or a pet store and put it in the hotel room with you to (hopefully) keep them from clawing up the furnishings.

It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. My cats meow'd for the first half hour but settled in after that and pretty much just slept and slept and slept. They didn't really eat or drink in the car all day but they did when we were in the hotels. One would use the litter box in the vehicle (I had it behind the passenger seat so I could reach it to scoop) but the others only used it in the hotel room.

I had also bought Feliway spray and calming chews for the trip. I really don't know if either made a difference for them since I have no basis of comparison but I wanted to make sure I did everything I could to minimize their stress. They did like the flavor of the chews a lot.

Hope this helps!

Rescue Remedy(pet formula) This works wonders for kitty aggression!


http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dgarden&field-keywords=rescue+remedy+pet+formula&rh=n:1055398,k:rescue+remedy+pet+formula&ajr=3

Plus, Feliway spray. This to calms them down when aggressive. Each product is a non-medication tool I use to keep my cats happy.

http://www.amazon.com/Feliway-ORMD-D-Behavior-Modifier-Spray/dp/B001GQI8SS/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1299809826&sr=1-3

I also have a female who gets slightly aggressive when shes done being petted and is moody with the others. I use both products when needed. They work wonders together. I have to use it less and less now that I can 'read' her signs better. I can tell when I need to get my face away and stop touching her. When she first started acting like that I was at a loss. She could be ok one second and swipe at me the next. Now when petting her I pet, and stop and watch her reaction and if she gives me the ok, I pet again. I'm patient with her and allow her to tell me what she wants. Now it rarely happens if ever.

Be patient and I know this sounds kinda silly to some but don't take it personally. :-) Also, I am not affiliated with these products in any way. I've posted advice with these products because for me they have been a god-send and I wish I'd had them when I got my first cat.

All my best to ya!

A window perch would be a good idea if she likes observing the outside world.

Also this one is a favorite of my two cats, I often find them playing with it and its by far their favorite toy, doesn't need an interaction from you. I actually bought all of its accessories (3 or 4 of them). http://www.amazon.com/Catit-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2.

Goodluck and good for you for caring about your cat's wellbeing and needs!

Please, please do not listen to the Petco person. Senior cat foods tend to advertise "reduced protein" formulas which means more carbohydrates (especially in dry foods) which you do NOT want for a cat, especially an older one that vomits often. The more carbohydrates and fillers, the more the cat has to eat to fill itself, the more vomiting and pooping and gut irritation, on top of a high possibility for diabetes, urinary issues, food allergies, and skin conditions. Cats throw up sometimes, but rarely. If a vet isn't concerned about this, that sounds like a red flag. How often is "a bit" for your cat?

I really recommend switching to a frozen raw diet as well. If that's not an option, then certainly switch to canned. No dry food whatsoever and especially do not free-feed. If you do more research into the topic (I highly recommend both http://www.catinfo.org/?link=makingcatfood and Dr. Elizabeth Hodgkins's book, http://www.amazon.com/Your-Cat-Simple-Secrets-Stronger/dp/0312358024) you'll get a better idea of why it is that cats need essentially a zero carbohydrate, all-meat moist food diet, and how improper high-carbohydrate diets are inappropriate for cats and lead to several serious medical issues (vomiting is just a symptom of other problems).

Jumping on your comment to say: My vets have advised me that the first ingredient in cat food should be some sort of whole meat - not a grain or meal (corn meal is popular) or vegetable. Cats are obligate carnivores and need to eat meat.

Also, if your cat won’t eat wet food (mine won’t, the tiny asshole) make doubly sure to provide water. Cats generally like their food and water sources to be separate, for some reason. I keep the litter box, food and water in three separate rooms. My cat is particular about his water fountain but really likes this one: Catit Flower Fountain: 3L Cat Water Fountain with Triple-Action Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146QXOB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B8YyDbEX56WVY

All this said but cats are super individual. They aren’t very good at adapting to new situations, so you have to meet them (more than) half way.

We have one of these and our cats love it. It's a pretty cheap investment, and it honestly stopped a lot of yowling in our house. They have 'em in white and steel too. Best thing I ever bought, it's built like a tank.

What about some toys that are like this? I use toys like these. They are prompted by the cat playing with it but are also encouraging them to keep playing by maintaining their interest.

Honestly, no, I don't think they exist. I have NEVER seen a MOTORIZED cat toy that has good reviews. Believe me, I've looked!

For self play toys, my cats love their Turbo Track, Catit Super Roller Circuit, and Turbo Scratcher. They also love this but they MUST have supervision when they play with it. Always put it in the door frame of the room you're in, and if you walk away from that room, take it down.

I just moved seven hours with my two kitties and I was so stressed about it ahead of time. One kitty is extremely skittish and shy and BOTH are terrible with the car. I have to say I was absolutely shocked with how well it went, so here are the basics of what I did. I highly recommend talking to your vet for advice as well, as they will have good suggests based on your individual cat. Anyway, here goes...

A few months before our trip I took both kitties to the vet for check ups (they were overdue) and asked my vet for advice (one cat pooped on herself on the way there btw). He said seven hours without a litter box is totally fine and that the cats should travel in their regular carriers. I have this carrier and another similar one. He said after the first hour or so in the car to offer water and/or wet food to keep them hydrated, but to expect they might refuse. He also suggested prepping the cats by taking them for short car rides in advance. He did mention sedatives, but I too was skeptical and didn't plan to use them.

After the vet visit I kept both carriers out in our living room. I also gathered up a bunch of old towels and placed them around the house where the cats like to sleep so that they would smell like home. I put treats in the carriers every day or so and also started feeding them in there a few weeks before our move.

I wasn't sure if I should take the vet's advice to go for practice rides, as it seemed to me like it would add more stress. About a week before our move I had to pick my husband up from work, so I decided to pack up the cats to come with me for the 20 minute drive. I couldn't catch one at all, so I just brought the other. What a nightmare! He pooped, peed and vomited on the short drive. When we got home he was a total mess and was drooling and foaming at the mouth. Just the kind of confidence I needed before our seven hour trip. That's when I decided to go for sedatives.

I got the sedatives from the vet and did two test runs with my kitties , one at the lowest dose and one slightly higher, but not the max. It didn't really seem to do a whole lot, but I was nervous to give them the highest dose.

A couple days before the trip I lined their carriers with puppy pads and put in some of the old towels. This gave them a day or so to get used to the set up. Our movers came the day before our drive, so we kept the cats in our house and stayed in a hotel that night. They were pretty freaked out by the empty house, but I left some boxes and towels to make them more comfortable.

On the morning of our move, we went to the house about 90 minutes before we planned to leave, fed the cats their morning wet food, took away their dry food, and gave them the sedatives. Chasing them down for this was a bit tricky, but I just did it really quick.

After that, I cleaned the litter box in hopes that they would go before the trip (ever notice how cats get in the box RIGHT after you clean it?). This worked for one cat, but not the other.

The sedatives seemed to hit a little harder the day of the move and one cat was a total rag doll. I don't think they ate as much that morning since they were already stressed out.

Once they seemed a little loopy we packed them up and were on our way. One cat meowed constantly, but they were both a lot calmer than usual. He quieted down a bit after the first two hours or so, but would still meow off and on.

After we were on the road for about one-two hours we stopped to check on them. I planned not to open their carriers once we were on the road, so I put empty bowls in there and squirted water through the cage into the bowls. Neither were too interested in it. One was so drugged that when I accidentally squirted water in her face she didn't flinch. I also offered them wet food on tiny spoons through the cage. One ate, but the other didn't.

I'm proud to say that we arrived at our final destination in one piece and without any kitty bodily fluids being emitted. One had a slightly raw nose from pushing it against his carrier, but that was minor. He also had the holder from his bowl around his neck, which gave me quite a panic, but he was totally fine. PSA: Do not buy these bowls.

Oh! I almost totally forgot. I bought two Feliway diffusers and put one in our new home a few weeks before the move and one in our old home around the same time. I also purchased rescue remedy and put a few drops behind each kitty's ears before we left. I have no idea if these steps helped, but since the move was overall very smooth, I wouldn't discount them.

One kitty was pretty much at home in our new place right away, but the other took a few days. We didn't have our furniture for about five days, so they had to get creative with hiding places. Our girl cat shoved herself into a tiny cabinet in the bathroom.

Sorry this is so long. I hope I didn't forget anything. I was so stressed about moving my fur babies and it was totally fine. Hopefully you will be too! Let me know if you have any questions!

It is normal for cats to be active in the early morning since their vision is best in low light. You can try to get her to sleep longer by wearing her out at night with an interactive play session right before bed. If my kitty is being particularly annoying the morning, I'll get out my cell phone and put a bird video on it for him to watch. That will calm him for at least 10 minutes, haha.

For the scratching, I would place double sided tape (like this: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-Sticky-Paws-Deterrent/dp/B007I08FI4/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_img_z) on the couch and put the thing you want her to scratch on right next to the arm of the couch. She won't like the feeling on the tape on her paws and with the post right there, you can quickly redirect her to scratching on the desired object.

So maybe it's not the digging itself, but the process of retrieving something that the cat likes? I'd try with one of those toys where you put (dry) food inside and the cat has to try and get it out (treat dispensers). They range from the basic ball with holes in it to more complicated ones. Here are some cool ideas I found:

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/d8/ed/13/d8ed1329249004316c14b3f4b09fb013.jpg

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-3769436/Scientists-reveal-DIY-food-puzzles-boost-cat-s-health-turn-ace-hunter.html

http://www.redferret.net/?p=27981

https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Design-Senses-Food-Maze/dp/B004G9L1H2

If I were you I'd try to DIY the toys first, because the cat might end up not using them. Also, I suggest you put new food inside, so the cat will be more interested to try it. Or just not her regular food that it can eat without digging.

Siblings, yay! They'll already know each other which is helpful when transplanting each to a new environment.


I think this book is a helpful general guide for beginners. This one too though it has a stronger focus on wet food diets.

Walking is an excellent idea, particularly for an active breed like a manx!

I would also suggest a few extra things :

• interactive feeding toys. She will have to use her brain to get food out of a toy, and that will make her less bored and get some energy out. Just be sure to adjust her regular feedings so that she isn't getting extra calories, or even replacing the food dish with an interactive toy or interactive dish.
  Example 1 .example 2
  
• The SSSCAT training aid these work well to set boundries within the house for some cats. You could consider placing these next to your vents.
  
• Try to wear her out mentally and physically. I'm betting she would probably be a good cat to try to clicker train to do tricks. Clicker training can be excellent physical and mental stimulation. It sounds weird to train a cat and I've never done it with mine, but I see people who do it all the time online. Karen Pryor (she popularized clicker training) has a ton of cat training tutorials.
  
• This tape : Sticky Paws can be put on the slats of your vents. Most cats don't like the sticky feeling on their paws and will stop messing with what you put on them....this didn't work for my cat. My cat just licks the tape.

I'm sorry, I don't know of a remedy, but I want to share that a friend's cat chewed through a lamp wire and electrocuted itself when they were out of the house.

Maybe you can find a string-type toy that hangs off a door or something and get him to play with that instead.

I know someone who has this and their cat really likes it.

I love water fountains for my cats. Cats have difficulty judging where the water's surface is if it isn't moving. This is why he splashes.

I have this one, and I love it. I wish it was ceramic, though.

A carrier would be the safest way to go. One with a top loading feature is easiest with kittens. https://www.amazon.com/Petmate-24-Inch-Kennel-Metallic-Coffee/dp/B0062JFGM0 is the one I use. There are also temporary cardboard carriers that vets and shelters use sometimes for adopting out new kitties. You could call your vet and ask if they have any like that.

Try plugging in a Feliway. They are diffusers that release calming hormones into the air. They are very effective at calming cats down in stressful situations.

I would also suggest boarding up the hiding spots near the ground and give him a nice big cat tree. If he gets up higher he will feel more comfortable. The enclosed hiding spots on the ground will only help him to feel more stressed.

Each day go in and sit. Read a book, listen to quiet music, or work on a craft. Don't talk or look at the cat. Just let him get used to your presence.

We had the same problem, and ended up with 4 different cones. The best one was this - KONG EZ Soft E-Collar for Cats and Dogs, Extra-Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GEAQ3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jG8TAbGSADF78
Because it was soft it would bend and she wasn't able to get a good grip on it to pull it off. Also continue with the meds, hope it all works out!

I wouldn't put them outside, especially if they've gone so long without learning how to stay safe out there. If your neighbors are so far away, I'd be worried about what sort of wildlife you have in your area. I doubt the cats are maliciously targeting your things alone, they probably have just decided that "wires over here are fun" and not extended the concept to other wires. Or they like chewing on wires that were near you.

I watched my cat destroy a cell phone cord one day. It was quite thin, he just casually walked up and bit it, the way outdoor cats will approach long blades of grass, and that was it. It was too thin to hold up to even one bite. It wasn't malicious, and I think he was as surprised as I was that it broke so easily. (Although maybe the look of surprise was that I was rushing towards him saying, "No! Bad cat!")

Regardless, it sounds like you need to protect your wires. Bitter sprays have never really worked on my cat, but are worth a shot. I'd personally go with wire covers. (I'd put one on your wife's mouse, too, just in case they re-direct their attention to it when they can't get to yours. I'd also cover any wires that are similarly thin.)

There are a lot of options. This one looks like it might be exactly what you need. There's also a larger size for power cords. Or, if you want to cover every wire, there's a bulk option.

You might also want to provide them with cat grass so they have an appropriate outlet for all their chewing.

Try something like this: Cord Protector - CritterCord - A New Way to Protect Your Pet from Chewing Hazardous Cords https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH2I5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qx4CxbQNADVVZ

Also, wrapping the cords in tin foil might help. Cats don't like the way it feels on their teeth.

It's a synthetic version of a hormone that makes the cat comfortable, less anxiety, less destruction. The description on Amazon probably explains it better than I can!

Anyway, I feel for you. Hope you find something that works. I agree with the other posters, the change in his buddy being gone (even if they weren't really buddies) may have just provoked anxiety in him.


http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Zone-Feliway-Diffuser-Kit/dp/B00I9SI40S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1465236647&sr=1-1&keywords=Feliway

I have two cats and a husky and all of them drink a lot of water. I found myself constantly refilling their water dishes so I invested in the Drinkwell Big Dog fountain. It works great and all the animals seem to like it. A few problems I had it with it is the dog splashes a lot of water out while drinking, so I ended up buying the plastic floor mat for underneath it. The cats also like to stick their paws in the water and play with the streams, so it does collect some dirt from that and I have to wash it out about once a week.

Only other major problem I have is due to our hard water in my area. It causes an ugly calcium buildup on the sides and builds up in the motor. About twice a year I have to take the whole thing apart, soak in vinegar, and chisel out all the calcium build up. Even using filtered water doesn't seem to help.

I've had it for a year and it's still going strong, so I consider it a good investment.

I would certainly ask your vet first, but I always keep a bottle of Vetricyn around the house for when my kitties get into trouble and get cuts and bruises. It works well on small wounds animals get once in a while. I highly recommend it. It's like neosporin for animals.

I would also look into either tightening the cone or investing in a new type of cone. I own this soft KONG cone for my cat and she has not been able to pry it off, whereas some other cones I've owned she's been able to escape in the past.

another option could be a puzzle feeder like this

or this

you can also make your own puzzle feeders from cardboard tubes or plastic water bottles

ETA: I use an automatic feeder for my cat's breakfast. The neat thing about it is that they come to associate food with the machine and not you directly, so they beg less (and don't wake me up at 4am to eat)

Hi. I had to transition 2 house cats with my fiance 3 cats. All girls except 1, and all fixed but the kitten. That... well the first day - week was an establishment period for laying claim and associating our bedroom as "home." Living room, kitchen, dining room, etc.. was "outside" and to not be trusted. That period lasted about 3 weeks then we introduced my cat, Cameo. She is a rescue (all cats here are in some form) and very very stubborn and has a high confidence in what is hers and carries this aura of "don't even get near me or I will punch the Fuck out of you." True story, many months later, kitten got to close, Cameo gave her warnings, Kitten choose the warnings didn't apply to her so she chopped and moved closer. Cameo heard the boxing ring bell go off and raised her right arm and balled her paw (into a fist! she's long hair so it looked like gloves) and bopper the Fuck out of Kittens head 4-5 times with enough force that Kitten chipped and turned away and poor thing shook her head for several seconds. I had even heard when the huts landed so I can imagine she got a jostle. Now for those thinking that's mean, in cat world that's how you stop a cat from being a douche around you and to retain a lesson.

Kitten, and everyone else, chirps and goes out of their way to avoid being near Cameo. Some may call her a bully but she is 12yo and I have had her since she was 4 months old. It's her land dammit!

It took my fiance about 6 months to be allowed to pet Cameo, a year she would walk up to him and ask for pettings. We did use Feliway from Amazon. I will get the link and edit post with link. The Feliway was awesome and we put it in 3 main rooms. Wayyy cheaper on amazon and my own vet recommended it.

Let us know how it goes. I don't know how joining dogs and cats but I know what we did. We did more stuff but it's late. Good luck!

Edit: not at pc so not sure how to do links and I took my Ambien so that's the other half so I'm going to paste link and prettier it up tomorrow!

https://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Zone-Feliway-Diffuser-Kit/dp/B00I9SI40S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1465968837&sr=1-1&keywords=feliway

My next one will probably be this. I have been using the plastic version and the refillable charcoal filter for years and love it.

With 3 cats, I offer you should using some fountain capacity more than 70 oz.

Here is some best idea for your cats:

• PetSafe Drinkwell Multi-Tier Dog and Cat Water Fountain 100 oz - https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Multi-Tier-Fountain-Drinking/dp/B0056ASTES/
  
• PetSafe Drinkwell Platinum Cat and Dog Water Fountain with Carbon Filter, 168 oz - https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Platinum-Water-Fountain/dp/B000L3XYZ4/
  
  You can read full the article I just done here: https://pawsometalk.com/best-cat-water-fountains/
  
  ​

I had a similar situation with a dog we rescued, though in over a decade of owning pets, I'd never had this happen before. She was fine with strangers and other dogs until she was spayed. Then she got really protective and defensive. What may have happened is that since the hormones gave gone down in your cat's system, they may now feel vulnerable- she has to prove her toughness. Call it overcompensation. Usually, I'd say 99% of the time, spaying and neutering "works" to calm a pet down.

You might want to bring kitty to the vet just to make sure that's all that's wrong, as cats may also get defensive when they're sick. Make sure she didn't get an infection from the operation.

If it turns out nothing is wrong with her, just buy some Feliway spray. It's this stuff for cats that makes them "be nice", by... well, setting up the right scents.

http://www.amazon.com/Feliway-Behavior-Modifier-Spray-75/dp/B001GQI8SS

I've got two cats here, by my side. One of them, whenever he is sick (or is in a mysterious bad mood), he attacks his furr-brother-from-another-mother. He never used to, it just happened as he aged.

Hope some of this helps! Good luck. Separate the cats when you can't watch them for now. It may also just be a territory battle, so you may want to make sure there are some high places one kitty can jump to, to be safe.

I would say give Feliway a try. I was a non-believer until I tried it for my cat with anxiety and I can't believe the difference, it started working within just a few hours. She calmed down and was once again willing to do normal things like eat, use the litter box, etc. without being scared of everything she saw.

We tried the onesie, as well as a baby tshirt and they both rubbed the incision badly. Off we went to the vet, because the cone was a no go in the first place, and they had flexible fabric cones that moved with the pet. My girls both did well with this in the end, although, they did seem to forget how to walk for the first half hour. Lol! 😂

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GEAQ3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ivd0Ab86JP710

This is the one I use and my boy loves it.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Multi-Tier-Fountain-Automatic/dp/B0056ASTES/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_199_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8P3MZ606AR4HBP07001P

Gotcha. Unfortunately I don't have much space, but what would your thoughts be on this item? Would it be good enough?

https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-Plus/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1505353956&sr=1-1&keywords=guinea+pig+cage

by "foot" you mean his front paw right? I know that cats do typically prefer flowing water to drink out of, so I know about a bunch of cats that like to paw at their water to make little ripples before drinking out of it. Alternatively, he could just simply be pawing at it because he's just curious and thinks it's fun to observe the splashing.

My cats didn't do that but I bought my cats this fountain anyway just because it's important for cats to drink more water than they typically want to avoid kidney issues.

If you're worried he's not getting enough water, this may help! my cat is in love with his water fountain.

We have this fountain for our two cats and have never had an issue with them dragging or spilling it, this may wprk for your cat? It's quite heavy and has different spouts which seem to interest our kitties too so they like drinking from it.

I also really like http://www.amazon.com/Northmate-Catch-Interactive-Feeder-Cats/dp/B00EB4IV2A this one

It sounds like your kitty is very insecure about his food. Maybe he was the runt of the litter, and he's always been insecure. Either way, feeding him twice a day and letting him get really hungry in between might not be the best idea. It reinforces the whole "must eat quickly, food won't be available for long". Even if you have a full-time job, feed him once when you wake up, once when you get home and once when you go to bed at least.

Secondly, try using those kinds of bowls that make him eat more slowly. Something like this Tiger-Diner thingy or this thingy or just put his food in a muffin tray or scattered on a large tray. Or maybe some puzzle feeders of sorts, since he's such a clever kitty!

As for food dispensers... sorry, but I don't know. All of them tend to be designed for it to be easy to get into for humans, so your kitty would likely figure it out, or try and knock it over and make it stop working.

I have the Drinkwell Big Dog Fountain and the Drinkwell Platinum Pet Fountain. My cats love them! My father let the cats drink from the tap. They got spoiled and started turning their noses up at their water dish and begging for water at the sink. After nearly tripping over cats every time I had to pee, I bought the smaller of the two fountains. It was an immediate hit, not just with the cats, but with the dog, too. Between them all, they emptied the fountain very quickly. I had to upgrade to the big one just to keep up!

There's also this stuff called sticky paws tape. You can put it on your furniture as a deterrent, and it doesn't harm the furniture.

Ahh I understand. Here's one I found on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-6022-Drinking-Fountain/dp/B00329RZFE

My cat always played with water and knocked over bowls, but he was never able to knock over this fountain

PetSafe Drinkwell Big Dog Pet Fountain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FGIUV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0qb6ybVHZX47H

http://www.amazon.com/Four-Paws-Bitter-Lime-Spray/dp/B00063KI6M

or try (double sided sticky tape work just as well)

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-Sticky-Paws-Deterrent/dp/B007I08FI4

http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_img_z

I'll try to link it, the cage I bought was $40 and is a similar style to c+c

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474639533&sr=8-1&keywords=guinea%2Bpig%2Bcage&pi=SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51LjyRUWqfL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

Here ya go. I'm in the US so I don't know if it'll be different. They also have just the cage (no "plus") for $35

What about a cat fountain?

It was a lot more expensive when I bought it- but here it is http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-6022-Drinking-Fountain/dp/B00329RZFE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1343743986&sr=8-10&keywords=pet+fountain

My youngest cat has a thing for HDMI cables - he's eaten at least $100 in HDMI cables. Nothing I sprayed on them worked (tried bitter apple and a cayenne pepper solution). Finally I found this : Critter Cable. It's the only thing that has been able to keep his sharp little teeth out of my wires. It is absolutely worth the expense.

Does she have a place up high to perch? Is she spayed? She sounds partially feral and possibly stressed out from the move.

Don't play with her with your hands anymore. Use toys on strings or laser pointers. And play until she's worn out, when she lays down or starts to pant you're done it. Keep the focus off of any body parts.

Also try a cat hormone to calm her, http://www.amazon.com/Feliway-Behavior-Modifier-Spray-75/dp/B001GQI8SS

I suggest taking the cat to the vet, as others have as well. However, I had an issue with one of my cats throwing up on a rather constant basis, and will share my experience with you in case it may be what is happening with your cat.

I used to have a gravity feeder for my cats, and noticed one of them was throwing up all the time. It was similar to the texture you described, undigested food. The issue for me was my cat was eating too quickly, and when the dry food would expand in her stomach it was too much and she would puke. I ended up getting what I call an alien toupee slow feeder ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EB4IV2A/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9yYAub195J50X) that forced her to slow down when she ate. Since then, she rarely throws up now.


Do you have food available for kitty all the time? If so, that may be a component.

This looks like a good design. I got this one a while back that I had to modify because my cats kept tipping it over to get to the food. I took off the base and replaced it with a wood post glued on top of a board (so that the cats would have to sit on the board to reach the food, which prevented it from being tipped). They hated it and would cry at night to bed fed.

I have this for our cats and they absolutely love it! I recommend keeping a small bowl of water somewhere until you're sure your cat is drinking from the fountain, but it didn't take long for mine to learn. Plus I only have to fill it up maybe once a week, and that's with multiple cats. No mess, no gross water, and the cats love it.

There are many different kinds of toys and puzzles that will keep him occupied when you aren't at home. Just choose something centered around your dog's motivation, whether it be treats, toys, or something else and don't forget to play with him yourself!

On a different note, I used to have a dog who started chewing when he was a puppy. I made it absolutely clear to him that I was VERY unhappy when he chewed through my headphone cord, then gave him a length of denim from the scrap box and said, "This is for you." Ever since then, he'll only chew things you give to him explicitly.

https://www.amazon.com/Petstages-Tower-Tracks-Track-Interactive/dp/B00DT2WL26

Order this toy. It won't solve all your problems, but every single cat I've introduced to it, young and old, go absolutely crazy over it

Cats hate change. HATE it. The first thing you need to do is catch him and put him into a small room (bathroom closet, laundry room) with food, water, litter box and a bed. Cats can be easily overwhelmed and should never be let out into a new house at large. They have to be introduced slowly.

He's likely peeing on everything room stress and fear. Put him into a small room and it should stop.

As soon as you're settled, get him to a vet. (And please buy a regular carrier to transport him.) He needs to be neutered and checked for a urinary infection or crystals. Either of these can also cause a cat to pee everywhere. Intact males want to mark everything as their own. If he's got a urinary issue, that can also make him pee all over because he hurts.