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>In terms of not letting her meet people/dogs when we walk, do I simply redirect her or cross the street?

Just don't let her meet them. I know, it sounds so simple.

Refocus her just like you would with any reactive dog, or undesired behavior generally. You want to click/treat and begin to refocus her as soon as possible, ideally before she does the undesired behavior. Once she does the undesired behavior, she needs to do something "good" for another treat so she does not associate the reward with the undesired behavior. The “good thing” is the SIT or LOOK/WATCH I mentioned in the other comment.

The key is to reinforce the good behavior so she knows that this is what to do, and meeting people is not what we do.

Don't cross the street, act normal.

>Don’t want my pup to get too chunky haha


As for treats, it really depends on the dog and what the dog likes. Some dogs hate crunchy treats while others will only take crunchy treats. It's important that the treats are small, or that you can make them small. There are a lot of treats involved, so smaller is better.

• Pocket Trainers are good, and occasionally Amazon has a sale on them so it's good to stock up when they do.
  
• Blue Buffalo Training Treats training treats are good, but expensive.
  
• Jerky is good, both chicken jerky and beef jerky are relatively cheap, available, and can be broken into small pieces for training.
  
• Dry food (kibble), just whatever you normally, use is a great lower value treat to mix in when you are giving her a lot in rapid succession (like the constant click/treat when someone is approaching). This is also cheaper than products marketed as treats.
  
  Some pet stores, especially smaller chains or non-chains, have treat samples. These are small bags so you can find out what your dog likes and what works best for her.
  
  To keep your dog from getting too big, cut her dry food (or wet food, whatever you use) down to 1/4 the regular serving at mealtimes.
  
  Supplement the reduced food at meals with vegetables mixed into the food, this way she feels fuller. You want her to get total of half her current serving of food at meals. I know this seems like a drastic cut, but she will get a lot of treats to make up for it.
  
  Whenever I've cut food less than this (such as to 1/2 current dry food plus vegetables it was not enough).
  
  If she currently gets 1 cup of kibble per meal, she would now get a total of 1/2 cup of food per meal, broken down as follow:
  
  
• 1/4 cup of dry food (or wet, whatever you currently use)
  
• 1/4 cup of vegetables
  
  If she seems to be loosing weight, you can add back in some dry food during meals.
  
  Vegetables
  
  Frozen green beans softened in water, or canned green beans if they are canned only in water.
  
  If she won't eat the green beans try canned carrots, do not use raw carrots since they can be tough on her stomach, canned carrots are already soft because of the water.
  
  
  >I just bought a clicker
  
  
  Buy more than 1 clicker, they get lost fast. Amazon usually has packs of 4 or 5 for less than 10 dollars.
  
  I also suggest a good treat pouch, just do a search on Amazon for "dog treat pouch" or "dog training pouch" and find one you like. There are a lot of them in different sizes, some have their own belt, others clip onto a belt, have a shoulder strap, or do all 3. I suggest finding one that you can wear at least 2 of those 3 ways (all 3 is best) to find out which is most comfortable for you. I would keep a clicker in the treat pouch, so you always have it. Like I said, they get lost fast.

I’d be interested to see if he was actually being “aggressive” or if he was just playing. As stated earlier pits have extremely high pain tolerances. (But they do in fact feel pain). I have bruises and one pretty gnarly scar from playing with mine who is about 80 lbs. Mostly, it happens when we go out to play fetch. He gets over worked and extremely excited and starts to come at me instead of the toy.

My suggestion: shut it down quickly. Simply grab the collar and get him to sit down, and don’t let him move until he is calmed down. The more you push, hit and kick, the harder he is going to try to bring you down, because that is how pits play, by trying to pin each other. Hitting your dog is never the answer.

Get or make a flirt pole , as it creates a greater distance between you the dog and the toy, which will help keep his attention focused on the toy and not on you.

Baskerville Ultra Basket Dog Muzzle – The Company of Animals - Adjustable and Comfortable Secure Fit - Durable Lightweight Rubber - Stops Biting, safe retraining of aggressive dogs- Size-5 Tan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IFJ0NWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_YJfVAbJBBH4BP

I really like it, but "$24 now discounted to $20" is no bargain when you can get it on Amazon prime for under $12.

I understand trying to get a new business off the ground, but give me a reason why I should pay nearly twice as much for the same merchandise.