(Part 2) Top products from r/PlantedTank

What size tank do you have?

If you are set on the paintball set up, you can't go wrong with the Aquatek mini regulator. It is the regulator I have set up on my 15 gallon and it has been fantastic. Basically, the parts you will need are:

• Regulator (Aquatek mini or if you have the $$, the GLA model is likely very nice.
  
• CO2 tubing (Aquatek has good stuff).
  
• Some kind of diffuser. These can be had for cheap on Ebay or Amazon. I bought a cheap one on Amazon and was disappointed with it, so I ended up buying this one and I love it.
  
• A bubble counter. There is a bubble counter included with the Aquatek mini regulator, but it is a cheapo unit. If you want to spend a little more money for a good one, check here for some good examples.
  
• Paintball tanks, obviously. I would recommend getting the largest one you can find and maybe getting two of them. That way you can have one on the tank at all times, when it gets low, swap them out and you will have a couple months to get the backup filled.
  
• A drop checker. This is used to estimate the levels of CO2 diffused in the water. It is filled with a pH indicator solution that changes color as the pH of the solution changes as the CO2 levels in the water change. It is a handy little device which will prove it's worth quickly. I use this one and have been very happy with it, but there are nicer ones here if you want that classy glassy look.
  
  Obviously, CO2 setups aren't cheap, but with the paintball route you can do it relatively inexpensively compared to the full scale regulator route. Good luck! I'd be happy to clear anything else up for you if you have questions.
  
  Edit: Make sure you have a check valve in the system somewhere. This will keep aquarium water from flowing up the line into the regulator. Some of those items I listed (like the GLA diffuser) have them built in, which will solve that problem. However, if you choose products without a check valve built in you will need to add one. Here are some (also more tubing there to choose from).

Both hygrophila and anarchis are stem plants, and as such would benefit from fertilizers to grow properly. Due to the nature of a stem plant, you can simply use liquid fertilizer as opposed to dry (like root tabs). The best in my opinion is Seachem Flourish. The bottle is $10-15 depending on where you buy it, and will last you almost literally forever in a 5 gallon tank. I think your dose would be about .5ml, which you'd do about once a week. There's 500 ml in a bottle, so it's not expensive at all. Side note: I highly recommend something like this to dose fertilizers with. It's easy to do too much/little when using just the cap.

Another thing stem plants really love is carbon. This is optional, really, but if you experience issues like yellowing leaves or the plant growing too slowly for your taste (both anarchis and hygro should grow like weeds, normally), liquid carbon will help. For that I use Seachem Flourish Excel in tanks where I don't have injected CO2. I generally overdose my tank on purpose when I want my plants to grow like wild fire (generally when I want to sell stems or propagate other parts of the tank). Note that Excel is harmful to invertebrates, so if you happen to add shrimp or snails in the future, use with caution.

Stems are great because when you trim them, you can replant the trimmings and make your aquatic garden as dense or as sparse as you want it to be quite easily. I always recommend stem plants or swords for beginners, since they're easy and pretty.

Both hygro and anarchis will grow just fine in low light with a little fertilizer. They will grow like kudzu on a barn with high light and lots of ferts and CO2, so they're versatile in terms of the environment you keep them in.

Also, my Betta loves his hygro. It's what he sleeps in. :)

Hey, i have the 6.6 gallon chi planted so I'll tell you what i can!


The lighting and filter combination on this tank sucks. even with plastic plants and minimal livestock the filter is underpowered for this tank and extremely finicky (water has to be at a certain level constantly, has to be completely level, etc.). The lighting as well is enough to light the tank, but probably not enough to support plant growth. I ditched the combo for a fluval nano though this filter is a bit loud so maybe look into alternatives if you are keeping it in a bedroom or something. For lighting I just use a 13 watt fluorescent desk-lamp. There isn't too much really made for this size tank, though fluval does make this clip on lamp designed for rimless tanks like the chi. though you could look into a desk lamp or there is also clip on work lights that work well with the right bulbs.


since you've been reading the sidebar you probably know about substrate, i use fluval stratum with good results. its a little hard to plant in at first, but the roots on my plants are ridiculous now and I'm pretty satisfied. though I'm just going off my experience, there is tons of other substrates out there.


As far as fertilizers and co2 go, a small tank will save you a bunch of money. you could invest in a co2 setup or do a diy setup, but i just use liquid co2. in a large tank its impractical, but its usually 1ml per 10 gallons. so you're really using 0.5ml per day, so a ~450ml bottle should last you 2.5 years. though measurements that small are impossible so a $12 bottle should last you a couple months, and i avoid adding it everyday so my plants don't grow out of control. fertilizers depend on what plants you choose, i just add liquid plant food once a week and its working pretty well.


the other thing to consider is that this is a nano tank, and you will be limiting yourself with the amount of fish and plants you can choose from. if you just want a Betta 5 gallons should be great, but anything else isn't really suited for this sized tank. I would visit your local fish store and see what plants they have and suggest. this tank is tiny so I'd avoid anything that going to spread out and grow tall or you're going to have a ton of maintenance. Also have you considered maybe just passing on the tank and getting something like a 20 gallon? nano tanks are great, but they are a pain in the ass to work on (every-time you want to do something you have to take water out or the displacement from your hand will flood the tank), if something starts rotting it can throw the entire tank off balance since there isn't that much water in the tank, and as previously mentioned, if you want to add any fish to the tank, you're stuck with either a betta or shrimp really.


if you have any more questions let me know I'll try to answer them as best as i can. here is my tank if you're curious! link

They're probably going to give you some sort of nutrient for the plants, which you may or may not want at first. Initially, consider the substrate you will be using in the tank. If you plan on having plants, gravel is not recommended. It's possible, but you'll see much better growth with something meant for plants. There's a lot of substrates out there designed for just that. Talk to your LFS about it, I'm sure they can give you some suggestions.

As for fertilizer, you may want to wait and see how things do with the proper substrate alone. Your fish and other fauna will provide macro nutrients for the plants (Nitrogen, Phospohorus, and Potassium), which may be enough for you at first. Do some research on your plants and pick ones that are easy maintenance and have low light requirements. Check out the forum I mention below for some help. They have a section just on plants that will give you some good ideas. Also browse around the low-tech setup sections and see what other people use!

If and when you are ready for the next step, there is stuff called Seachem Flourish (http://amzn.to/1cT6LeT) that provides a lot of the micro nutrients your plants will need. I use it in my tanks and it works great. As I said before, your fauna provide macro nutrients, and the Flourish adds the rest.

If you want to get a little more complicated, there is a product called Seachem Flourish Excel (http://amzn.to/13FM5yD) that provides carbon for your plants in a liquid form. Be careful with this stuff as it is toxic in large concentrations. Just follow the directions and you'll be fine. This stuff works great in combination with the Flourish mentioned previously.

The LFS may try and sell you on both of those products (or their other-brand equivalents) initially. As I said, start with a good substrate as that is something that is difficult (although not impossible) to change once the tank is established. Once you get things up and running (you know about the nitrogen cycle, right??), then start adding complexity. I didn't do that when I got into the hobby and was quickly in over my head and my budget.

If you want to read further, I suggest you check out this forum: http://www.plantedtank.net/ Either the low-tech or planted nano tank sub-forums will be of interest!

I would suggest a couple of things. I'm a cheapskate at heart, so take what I say with a grain of salt. A 10G tank is a perfect starting volume, but I think you can do it with way less up front cost.

First, I'd hold off on the CO2 kit until your tank gets established and you determine that CO2 is needed. For a 10G tank, you may find that a DIY kit is fine. I personally got a CO2 setup, but only because I found this one on clearance for $5 (http://www.amazon.com/Nutrafin-Natural-System-Activator-Stabilizer/dp/B00026058Y). It's essentially a commercial version of the standard DIY kit, and it bubbles for 2-3 months per charge.

Second, you may want to stay away from the HOB filter. I've got about a half-dozen of them around the house, but I have found that I really like the sponge filters way better, especially if you want to keep your cherry shrimp babies from getting sucked up. They do an excellent job with biological filtration, and if you just squeeze/rinse one of them out each time you do a water change, it will do a decent job at mechanical filtration as well. Can't beat the price either. http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter-Fish/dp/B0056XVF82

I think your fish selection is great, but just wanted to note to you that Glowlight tetras are "moderately difficult to breed", so if you'd like a nice sustainable colony it may be worth checking out some of the livebearers. Nothing like buying 5 fish and then having 30 in a few months... I'm currently raising Endler's guppies. The males really make the tank pop, and they stay small so having 20-30 in the tank isn't too much bioload.

For plants, I think you've got the right idea with starting with some HC and then add more later. I'd also search around a bit and see if there is a local aquarium group. Trading is way better than buying... after going to my local Aquatic Plant Club monthly meeting I always walk away with 5-7 plants that I didn't have before. Your job will then be to grow like crazy to bring more back to the group for the ever-present "new guy" to get started.

For 3D supports, you may want to check out using "egg-crate", or lighting diffuser. It's dirt cheap from Home Depot and will hopefully keep the water/sediment from stagnating underneath your mountains.

Hope this helps, I'd try to spend as little as possible until you identify areas that need improvement.

From his previous posts:

alright!

So after many months of planning and figuring out what i waned to do, I finally decide to bite the bullet and get into the planted tank hobby (I kept ranchus before this).

If you guys have any tips or anything advice that would help me out much appreciation!

For right now I am waiting for the drawf hairgrass carpet to grow out, and my piece of wood to become waterlogged so it doesn't float.
I tied down java moss so the wood looks like a tree.

Dont judge me, I know its hella cliche, but i think it would look good.

I am replacing the HOB with a canister filther (Finnex px-360) and using lily glass pipes for my intake and output, so i can achieve that more minimalistic vibe.

For those wondering my CO2 set up, I am using [this] (https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/archaea-co2-regulator-pro-single-gauge-fits-cga-320), so far its pretty good. It has the adapter so i can connect to a 5lb paint ball co2 canister. I have it connected to a timer, so its pretty hands free system.

The only thing I want to change is my CO2 diffuser, its good for its price point(only 10.99). But I feel like if I spend a little more I could get something better.

If you guys want links to what I have bought:

CO2 regulator

Glass lily pipes (still havent arrived so I dont know if they are good, I have heard mixed reviews about it)

CO2 Indicator

Canister filter


Tank

And all the plants i got from aqua forrest in SF

alright!

So after many months of planning and figuring out what i waned to do, I finally decide to bite the bullet and get into the planted tank hobby (I kept ranchus before this).

If you guys have any tips or anything advice that would help me out much appreciation!

For right now I am waiting for the drawf hairgrass carpet to grow out, and my piece of wood to become waterlogged so it doesn't float.
I tied down java moss so the wood looks like a tree.

Dont judge me, I know its hella cliche, but i think it would look good.

I am replacing the HOB with a canister filther (Finnex px-360) and using lily glass pipes for my intake and output, so i can achieve that more minimalistic vibe.

For those wondering my CO2 set up, I am using [this] (https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/archaea-co2-regulator-pro-single-gauge-fits-cga-320), so far its pretty good. It has the adapter so i can connect to a 5lb paint ball co2 canister. I have it connected to a timer, so its pretty hands free system.

The only thing I want to change is my CO2 diffuser, its good for its price point(only 10.99). But I feel like if I spend a little more I could get something better.

If you guys want links to what I have bought:

CO2 regulator

Glass lily pipes (still havent arrived so I dont know if they are good, I have heard mixed reviews about it)

CO2 Indicator

Canister filter


Tank

And all the plants i got from aqua forrest in SF

I am like you, and have done DIY until very recently. Spend the money. You won't regret the purchase. I was only slightly over 100 bucks on mine, but it was worth every penny to be rid of the hassle. The only issue with the valve I'll recommend is that you can't go over 1500 PSI even though the bottle I'll recommend is rated for 1800. Make sure to mention that when you get the bottle filled. The regulator is only rated at 1500. Here is what I bought.

CO2 Regulator
CO2 Tank
CO2 Diffuser

So yea, some tips. Don't fill tank over 1500 PSI. Make sure green knob is all the way in off position and it's not plugged in when you screw on the regulator. Screw on the regulator ALL THE WAY. Plug regulator in, slowly open the green knob. This assumes you have all the tubing hooked up. The bubble counter is super handy :) It only costs me 5 dollars to fill up the tank at Dicks sporting goods store. So after the upfront cost, I can run multiple tanks with a splitter off this, for a 5 dollar every few months fee. Totally worth it for the consistent bubbles and lack of hassle from DIY. If you get a timer, you can plug your regulator and light into it and you can control when the CO2 and light come on. You just need to trust us man, 130 bucks for this is worth it... so worth it. The bubble counter comes in the regulator I linked. The only things you'll need to buy other than what I posted for a 100% system is silicon tubing to link it all up, and maybe some suction cups. I didn't list this because that's a few dollars at most on Amazon. Don't listen to the 300 dollar crowd, my system is sub 150 and works just as well as theirs.

Would highly recommend a system.

That would be an extremely large diffuser. Maybe those dimensions are for the box rather than the diffuser itself. Your best options outside of a powerhead are a bubble ladder or a ceramic disk diffuser. Bubble ladders aren't very efficient so you'd need more CO2 and they take up more space. Ceramic disk diffusers are small and some work for DIY, but most DIY systems cannot output enough pressure.

If you have access to a power outlet I'd suggest something like this. You can just poke a hole right above the sponge and insert the CO2 tubing. As the CO2 is generated it'll get pushed into the impeller of the filter, which breaks it up into tiny bubbles that diffuse quite well. This is what I use on a 5 gallon and its reasonably efficient. I mix 1/2 cup sugar, 1/2 tsp yeast, 1/2 tsp baking soda (these are estimates since I never remember my actual mix) every 10-15 days. If you're curious about how I setup the diffusion I can take pictures when I get home and send you the exact quantities I mix.

It's really tough to give a solid answer for bubble rate because it depends on diffusion method. This is part of why no one ever agrees what the proper mix for DIY CO2 is. Different diffusion methods are radically different in the final amount of dissolved CO2. If you're using a moderately effective diffusion method one bubble every 10-15 seconds would be good. Just so you have some information to work with on 20 gallon long I do one bubble every second diffused through a powerhead. On my 10 gallon I do one bubble every three seconds diffused through a ceramic diffuser underneath a powerhead. For my 5 gallon I do one bubble every 5-10 seconds diffused through a filter like the one I linked above.

Sorry for putting such a huge amount of info. Hopefully you can get some good ideas out of it.

One thing I've seen over and over is that Dwarf Hairgrass needs pressurized CO2 in order to get an established carpet so you really might want to consider that. Our set-up consists of an AQUATEK CO2 Mini Regulator, 2 Empire 20oz CO2 Tanks (which are the same as what they use for paintball and very cheap to fill - and they last for months), a Reactor 100 diffuser (our Fluval broke...sucks), a Fluval 88g Bubble Counter, and a Fluval CO2 Indicator Kit. You'll need airline tubing too and a drop checker. It very simple to set up and use, if you'd ever consider it and your hairgrass would love you for it...but it really looks like everything in there is thriving so nicely!



Hairgrass also needs light so maybe cut back on whatever is blocking light from getting down to the hairgrass. If you do go with CO2, make sure you shut it off when your lights aren't on, since the plants can't use it without light and watch the indicator so you don't gas your tank and fauna. CO2 would also help regulate your pH, which your shrimp would love. Mine holds at a steady 6.8.



Maybe you could cut back your sword a bit and plant some of the runners in another tank, or if you don't have one, maybe you have a friend that would like some?



I think your tank looks great, a little jungly, but I bet the shrimp love that! Love your variety of Fauna!



Good luck!

Hey I just bought the same tank! I fit the same exact heater in the compartment next to the filter intake tube, it fit perfectly. I also used a little over half a bag of eco-complete. I just planted it a couple days ago. I bought a Nutrafin co2 kit but the ladder diffuser/bubble counter took up a whole wall so I ditched it and bought this glass diffuser and this bubble counter, they're still in the mail though so can't comment on how they work.

It looks like you're going with pressurized co2 which I sort of want to too but the replacement tanks seem expensive. Kind of wish I hadn't bought the Nutrafin and just made my own bottle DIY but the cannister is nice and so is the tubing it comes with and I'll just use the ladder diffuser on a bigger tank. There's not much room to work with and the lid seems annoying to fit things under, like tubing so I'm still working on that but overall it's a beautiful tank. Good luck!

Plants become deficient pretty quickly. You can visibly see their leaves melting or changing color. Depending on the plants you have, depends on how well they can show you. I have Hygrophila, which are notorious for being resource hogs. If anything indicates a deficiency in the tank, it would be them. They go from bright green to black, which is a really good visual indicator.

My tank is not heavily planted, so the carbon injections aren't necessary for the plants to live, but it just helps them to grow and propagate across the tank. I think a lot of people start off buying a lot of plants, which requires them to inject everything into the tank at the start. There is so much plant surface area competing for resources. I intentionally started off sparse to make this a long term thing and just to watch which plants will slowly take over the tank over time.

The shrimp I have range for 1 inch to 2.5 inches. The females are the one over 2 inches. The syphon I use is made for 5 gallon and less tanks. So the force of the siphon really isn't enough to suck them up and they are smart enough to avoid it. I purposely chose to get the smallest syphon so I can make sure I have enough time to get to the whole tank before I collect the 5 gallons. The appropriate sized syphon probably wouldn't have gave me enough time to work around the plants and driftwood in my tank before it filled up the 5 gallon bucket.

The shrimp actually help maintain the tank. They eat the algae that grows on the plants and wood. When you first start a tank, colonies of bacteria will grow randomly in the tank and they will eat that too. The females, being larger and carrying around eggs, eat a lot. The tank was built around a Betta and the females are like the same size the betta minus the Betta's fins. If you stick to community fish, the shrimp will go pretty undisturbed. They really live completely separate lives from the rest of the tank (betta, school of harlequin rasboras, and a panda garra).

I use a finnex px-360.

https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4

It was the smallest canister filter I could find. I tried to get a small canister to get the lowest water current possible while still circulating the water through the whole tank. Captive bred Betta's are so far from their original forms that they suck so much at swimming. This is why I went with something that would produce a low current. This filer comes with a thin cartridge of carbon media. I replaced that with a bag or Purigen. That small cartridge seemed like it would have to be replaced every other month and cleaned every week. The bag of Purigen last for 6 months and was worth buying only having to worry about it twice a year.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B1Q9DUY/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540125239&sr=1

Planted tanks look as beautiful as saltwater tanks and require way less attention. From my experience at least. Everyone that visits my place always asks if my tank is a saltwater tank because all of the colors are so vibrant, yet natural.

I had a Nicrew 12-18 inch LED light on my 5 gallon for a while and it worked splendidly. Nothing spectacular, but it grew my Swords and Java Ferns. Great for low light, not so much for carpeting. Also it's cheap. But I don't know how much that matters to you.

You can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HiqIDbZ9F02HN

I've recently upgraded the tank to 10G and am now using a Finnex stingray on it. I have to say that it is one of the best lights I've ever used. It's just the right amount of light and is great for low maintenance/low light plants and high maintenance/high light plants, so it's good all around. I'm not sure if they have a model suitable for a 5 gallon but it may be worth checking out. It's a bit more expensive but worth the price IMO.

You can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAFQ6FK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hope this helps a bit OP

The fluval CO2 system requires you to use disposable co2 canisters. The system comes in two sizes, 20 gram and 88 gram. Depending on the CO2 requirements of your plants, it could end up getting a tad expensive. You may be able to get away with it on such a small tank, but it the long run it may be cheaper to purchase a larger, refillable system.
Assuming you go with the 20 gram kit, which is recommended for up to 15gal. That's ~$28 + S&H. Assuming you are conservative with your CO2, You'll probably use 1 canister every 2 weeks. A 20 gram 3 pack is $14 + S&H. Over the course of a year you will spend ~$145 + S&H for CO2. Over 2 years, that number will be around ~$250 + a lot of S&H. Plus, if you decide to upgrade your tank, you'll also have to upgrade your CO2 system.
If you have the money to spend up front, you'll save yourself time and money in the long run. Get a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank from Amazon for $21. Get it filled at your local sporting goods store for ~$4. Get a diffuser from Amazon for ~$11. Then get a Paintball CO2 Regulator from GLA for $189. One fill up on your tank is equal to more than 34 20 gram canisters from Fluval and it only costs about $4 to refill, and if you have a Dicks Sporting Goods near you, 5th refill is free. Total cost is $221 + S&H, but that regulator is quality made and will last you years.
This is the set-up I use on my 7.5 gal and I'll be honest, after all other methods of "low cost" CO2 injection failed me and wasted my money, shelling out $200 for a regulator was quite painful, but this was the single best purchase I've ever made in my 20 years of keeping fish. So, if you can afford it, or can wait a bit and save some cash, it's worth it.
The simple fact that Fluval wants to charge you 13.99 for just over 2.1 ounces of CO2 when you can get a 24oz tank filled for $4 should make you question the purchase of their system.

I used tablets but I didn't see any benefits from them I use seachem stuff weekly and it works really great and it's pretty cheap c02 seems to be pretty expensive to get into but I recommend

Seachem Flourish Excel Bioavailable Carbon - Organic Carbon Source for Aquatic Plants 500 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000256962/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1VWTDb5NB7NE1

sunsun 602b As your filter

NICREW PLANTED TANK LIGHT, there are others like Finex planted 24/7 CC , TWINSTAR, ADA etc. Some more demanding plants might require a broader spectrum and majority will thrive and do fine with the light i provided.

Fishing lines to tie the moss to the branches.

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monte carlo sounds good, I would recommend dry starting it for a faster carpet.

As for background, since you like red plants, maybe Ludiwiga sp. "Super Red" , Pogostemon Stellatus is also an excellent option, new growth tips will have pink and white colors, or Ammannia Gracilis . All of which will do well in no CO2 enviroments, however, you will need to dose external Iron supplement to bring their full red out.

​

Very simple really. You just poke the tab deep into the substrate every couple of months. I'm really not trying to pump you Seachem products but their fert. tabs are pretty good and I use them in my own tank. This is for any plant that you have actually planted. For floaters you'll need to sub with a few drops of liquid ferts.
http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Flourish-Tabs-10-Count/dp/B000255QLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453098468&sr=8-1&keywords=freshwater+plant+fertilizer

There are, naturally, many more products to use for ferts. Some much better and more expensive, but I have found that these work well and are on sale quite often. A bag or two will last me a year. :)

Are the lights built into the tank cover or are they separate pieces? And why do you want to go to an LED? Aesthetics? Plants?

IF you found a screw-in type bulb as /u/orangeisthebestcolor found, you're going to be stuck with one light, one intensity, one color, on or off. There's no moonlight or sunset with a light like that, only high noon and pitch black midnight.

For the features you are wanting, a light like the Finnex Planted+ 24/7 is what would work best. It's not inexpensive, but it does a pretty ok job of providing a 24 hour light cycle. You can search for a glass top to replace the hood that you're removing, they're really inexpensive - I think I paid around $50 for my 24"x48" glass tops.

Hi! I noticed a lot of people don't seem to be acknowledging you have a very high powered plant light and no co2. This helps form any type of algae in general when you're pushing that much var. Flourish Excel is an organic carbon that you can pour in that should help get rid of the algae and make your plants look a lot better! http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116045308-Flourish-Excel-500ml/dp/B000256962/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419364071&sr=8-1&keywords=flourish+excel

You could also just go the full co2 setup route.

I work at a fish store and we recommend you feed your fish every other day. This could help with the overfeeding you think you have going on. My neon tetras are huge feeding like this as well.

Hey thanks for taking the time. Are you referring to this Fluval or a different one? You've mentioned a pressurized CO2, can you point me out to a good resource on this? Or something that you would recommend? Although I have a 10 gallon planted tank with DIY CO2, I'm sure that that is totally different from a pressurized one.

Thanks again. Much appreciated.

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC

This will be the perfect match for low-light plants.

I personally have this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIL7YPE

It worked very well for my 5g Fluval Chi with Java moss, dwarf hairgrass, micro swords, hornwort, and bladderwort.

I'm currently using it on a 20g long and the growth from my micro swords, anubias nana, Java moss, Java ferns, and wild bacopa is excellent. I keep it about 6" from the surface of the water. Some brown diatoms have formed directly below it on a piece of dead coral, but that's probably from a combination of recently cycling and a long photoperiod.


As long as you have a relatively short photoperiod or break up the photoperiod to "confuse" the algae, you should be fine. Flourish Excel definitely helps, as does hornwort if you don't mind it floating around.

how do you pre-fertilizing the soil?

Do I just throw in the Osmocote Plus, then Amazonia? is the root tabs optional? I was looking at this Seachem Flourish Tabs 10 Count. Does the Root tabs go on top?

Also, I was looking into the dry start method which seems like it would be a little easier for myself, what are your thoughts on this?

Thanks for being such a big help and having great advice for a noob like myself!

Yes, I realize now that I should have refined my original post. As far as what I have going right now:

Lighting - Finnex Stingray; buying two clamp lights isn't going to be much cheaper than this at $44.

Filter - Sponge filter with the powerhead listed above. I'm not set on one for now because I'll see what's at my LFS and go from there, but I have one in mind.

Tank - standard 10g tank from LFS

Substrate - I plan on using either black sand or normal sand, whatever I can find, along with root tabs. I like the look of sand and from what I hear it's easy to use for rescaping, which I will probably be doing. I had dirt capped with sand in my last tank and it looked horrible after a while because it mixed too much.

Is Seachem Prime the typical dechlorinator? I saw it recommended somewhere and that's what I plan on getting. I'm also looking at getting these tools. I'm not sure how much quality differs but they're cheap and have some good reviews.

I plan on sticking with RCS and some snails for now, fish can come later. As for plants, I think I'm gonna go with some java fern and java moss. I'll see what else my LFS has and recommends.

I greatly appreciate the help by the way.

EDIT: I wanted to add that I'll only be using root tabs on plants that would need it, I know I'm not supposed to plant java fern in the sand. I was just reading about staurogyne repens and how it could work in sand and low tech as long as I use root tabs and fertilizer. Do you have any thoughts on this?

yeah excel would melt the java fern as well. If you want a good carpet you should go with more light, and a walstad tank or a co2 system. co2 can be daunting at first, but I have this regulator and it works very well for me. depending on what type of filter you have you need to pick a diffusor, and with a tank you are technically ready to go. I upgraded my bubble counter to a JBJ style and got a drop checker for safety but those are optional.

Well depending on a few factors I don't think anyone here would complain about the finnex planted plus. Amazon has the for a good deal. They are more expensive then a fluorescent tube and a hood, but considering replacements cost the finnex is the way to go. I'd like to get one but, being from Canada Amazon.ca likes to gouge the shit out of the Canadian market comparably to the US.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00U0HMX1C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1451350699&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=finnex+planted+plus&dpPl=1&dpID=51reARjLBOL&ref=plSrch&th=0

I use mainly LED lights on my tanks. I have had the best luck growing plants with these lights on 29g tanks:

finnex planted plus

finnex stingray

current USA LED freshwater

DIY LED flood light

I have also used clamp shop lights from lowes and the great value daylight led bulbs

I have the same marineland light setup on one of my 29g tanks and it is barely enough to keep a ball of hair algae alive.

Yeah definitely - I did a fishless cycle for about a month, using only the Fluval overflow filter that comes with the tank. This was great for getting the bio filter stabilized, but the water flow was too strong for a Betta and the mechanical filtration was weak. So I went to my LFS and purchased a KollerCraft TOM Mini Filter, and ran the Fluval system simultaneously with the KollerCraft to ensure the bio filtration transferred to the KC. Since then, I unplugged the Fluval filter and have only run the KC - and it's much more effective filtration. As for lighting, the 7000k LED light that comes with the tank is fantastic, but it's too close to the water line in my opinion. I had nasty algae blooms for a couple weeks, then came across a fellow Redditor who 3D printed the extension for the Spec III. I immediately requested one and received it in the mail a few days later. The combination of the KC Tom Filter and the light extension has resulted in no algae for 6 months. The most important factor is water changes though, so you should be changing 20-30% of the water every few days to keep your water parameters in check. Does this help?

Thanks! Here's the filter i use: http://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO
When i first got it, it made a terrible rattling noise at first but after resetting some of the pieces it's been great and is really quiet now. It's also blends in well. I would recommend it!

Fluval sells this simple kit. It does get expensive replacing their specialized cartridges, but it's a good place to start if you're only ready to get your toes wet.

If you want to go bigger, it'll cost more upfront, but is cheaper to maintain.

Amazon Shopping list for CO2 under $200:

Cheap Regulator. There are better/nicer/higher quality ones out there. This one is cheap and okay.

Drop Checker

Diffuser

Check Valve

CO2 tubing

Thread tape

Adjustable wrench

5lb cylinder less than $15 to fill at gas supply store

I use Excel ( I actually buy it in bulk 10 gallons at a time and dilute it myself ) with my CO2 BUT I don't use it as a carbon but instead as an algaecide. The supplement is just a bonus. Polycytoglucolsomene (botched it, but that's what's in Excel) is a strong medical cleaner that's been diluted for the aquarium. It changes the DNA/RNA of algae to prevent replication. Some plants do not like this.

https://youtu.be/eIj67-zOrGk

Watch that video.


The co2 tank I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_dzYNsK4I2fzHX

PAR is essentially the intensity of light within a very specific color spectrum conducive to photosynthesis (for plants and corals alike). So the number does represent an "intensity" but within a narrow range compared to Lux's measurement across the entire light spectrum. You actually CAN tweak a lux's photometer to measure PAR (its been done on the plantedtank forums) but is outside my personal expertise.

Now for wattage, for a 5 gallon the lowest possible will be your best bet for a small tank. The problem I have with CFL lighting is it's tough to make it look aesthetically pleasing over the top (and this might be important to you). I use low power LEDs like you have started too. I personally use these on smaller tanks as they are only 4watts, and look nice if they can clip to the side.

I recently brought BGA (cyanobacteria) into my tank with some new plants. Didn't take long for it to spread. Friend suggested I try this stuff: Ultralife Blue Green Slime Remover
Still haven't used it, but reviews seem positive and my friend swears by it.

I think that finnex makes the smallest canister on the market: http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4

But 'small' is really relative here, although it's cool that you can mount it like a HOB.

Tons of sites to buy all this. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/ (good all around) - http://www.adana-usa.com/ (high end and more pricey, but they have the tiny ADA CO2 system) - http://greenleafaquariums.com/ (had good luck with these guys) - Amazon has a ton of stuff too even.

Without going to deep into the theory, a light that mirros daylight is a good balance between aesthetically pleasing and effective for plants.

That said, LEDs use less power and live longer than other lighting types and are cheaper, at least in the long run. A cheap LED is a better choice than a floodlight.

I think my light is good enough. I'm using a Nicrew ClassicLED at 50% for 8 hours (4 hours with a siesta in between). Nothing fancy, but works well, I think. But I really love the planted aspect of my tank and want to step up to the next level besides just doing root tabs and liquid ferts.

A few thoughts:

• Pick up a timer for your light. It'll give the tank a regular light cycle every day of the week without you having to do anything for <$10 (probably cheaper at a local store than Amazon).
  
• A lot of algae means there's a lot of nutrients in the tank your plants are unable to use. In the case of the dwarf baby tears, they probably need more CO2 than is available in the water column; if they don't have enough CO2, it doesn't matter how many other ferts you dose -- CO2 will be a bottleneck for its photosynthesis and it's going to struggle; meanwhile then the algae will happily use those extra ferts. Keeping up your Flourish Excel would help this situation if you didn't want to go all out and inject carbon. IIRC the correct dose for Excel for your size tank would be about 1ml every day. Flourish should only be dosed once or twice a week; I can't speak to Iron. Simply take whatever the recommended dose on the label is and divide it to match your tank. Example: if label says 5 ml per 50 gals; that's 1 ml per 10 gals, or 0.5 ml for 5 gals. I use graduated eyedroppers to dose my nano tanks.
  
• I think your substrate looks fine for plants (because you're not trying to plant in the sand). If it's not a fertilized substrate, consider getting some root tabs like /u/thefishnoob suggested.
  
• The dwarf baby tears also probably needs more light -- consider getting a higher-output fixture, or add a second of the one you already have. (But wait until after you knock down your algae.)
  
• Another tactic when it comes to knocking down algae can be reducing your photoperiod -- again something a timer can come in handy for.

Awesome. Thanks for such a comprehensive response. I like the idea of the 6500k bulbs from Amazon, but do you think it is worth spending a bit more and getting something automated like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0HMX1C/?tag=aqualedlight-20

Ferts - http://greenleafaquariums.com
Co2 Regulator - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/copy-of-archaea-co2-regulator-pro-dual-gauge-fits-cga-320
5lb Co2 tank - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3ONOLGNT00SR9. Co2 diffuser - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MLTRR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bubble counter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GCPM6K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Co2 Drop Checker - http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-Aquatic-CO2-Glass-Drop-Checker-PH-Momitor-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Test-CO2-Kit-/391351972319?varId=660586838351&txnId=650126189026 Co2 tubing and check valve - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/pressure-proof-tube-parts-set
Co2 Drop Checker Solution - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/ph-kit-ph-reagent-refill-for-drop-checker

That should be everything. I would look into EI dosing too. Especially if you're going with dry ferts. You'll have to find a place near you that can fill the Co2 tank. I get mine filled at Beer Depot. Any home brewery store will have the equipment necessary to refill a 5lb Co2 tank. Welding stores also refill Co2 tanks. If you're really luck, you may have an awesome LFS that refills tanks too. If I missed anything, or if you have any more questions, please let me know. =)

Mmn, I'd be wary since it doesn't have any reds. If you can spare a little extra money I'd get lights specifically made for planted tanks, like the Finnex Stingray.

I also have a bookmark for this LED - it's not made for planted tanks specifically but I heard from somebody on this sub that they had success with it in their tank (which is why I saved the link).

When starting up my CO2 I gave in and bought a tank and solenoid regular off of amazon both totaling a bit over $100 with some lucky sales. I've used Flourish Excel before but haven't noticed anything substantial until using pressurized system. Tank and Solenoid. The tank is on sale currently I might just buy another one, the 5lb tank with this solenoid sits perfectly under my aquarium stand and works with the space in my stand builds.

If I were to use CO2 on my 10g I would buy a smaller tank like their 2.5lb size and another solenoid. I've never gassed fish nor do any of us want to try, I'd rather have a reliable setup that is cheaper in the long run vs buying the smaller overpriced kits.

Overdosing excel can kill algae but I did just find this.

Hm you want to keep it low light? Try a Finnex Stingray clip light
or I have this and I like it grows the buce and moss pretty well. Up Aqua 3C Series

Do you want to upgrade up to a better light? I like the upaqua pro z series led I know this light is longer than your tank. But with some google you can find the correct size. I think I have a 12 inch z series on my 10g.

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 for $80. You don't have to use the 24/7 mode, just adjust it to your liking and put it on a timer.

On my 10 gallon I have this cheap Chinese alternative and it works great, the 24/7 colors aren't as pretty as the Finnex but it's certainly bright and adjustable.

The issue with it is if I leave it on 1 bps it always slows down and stops eventually but it will keep up on 4 or 5 bps so I normally just do that for a few hours. I ended up leaving it on 1 bps and I expect it to be off by now anyway. But I use the solution that came with this [Fluval CO2 Indicator] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052M9886/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052M9886/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Do you know if that solution works? It was green for a few days but hasn't turned back from yellow actually now that I think about it. Thanks for your input.

40 gallons is going to be pushing on what you can accomplish with DIY, so I would avoid going that route, as you wont wind up happy.

As for what you will need, it is really very simple, but not particularly cheap. You need a CO2 tank, a regualtor, bubble counter, diffusor and gas line.

CO2. Go with a 5 or 10 lb tank. If you can find used even better as most places just swap tanks when you fill them, so you get your new shiny aluminum tank, bring it to get filled, they take it and give you a banged up used one back. A 5lb tank should last 3-4 months depending on how many bubbles per second you are pumping

Regulator with Bubble Counter and solenoid, the solenoid is what shuts off flow of CO2 at night, when plugged into a timer. Plants don't utilize CO2 at night, so continuing to pump it into the tank is just wasting gas. Keep it on the same cycle as your lights, or better yet, and hour behind, so it turns on and hour before the lights come on, and off an hour before the lights go off.

Diffuser, you can spend a little or a lot here. I dont really see the need to spend a ton with this part. You do want to see if the unit has a check valve though, and if not, you will need to add one between the bubble counter and diffuser to prevent a back siphoning.

Gas tubing very important you get tubing rated for CO2 gas. Do not use regular air line of the gas will eat right through it

Sponge filters are the best for shrimp. It's only $2.81 cents shipped.

Here a amazon link where to buy it:

https://amzn.com/B0056XVF82

Here a youtube link about it:

https://youtu.be/Rc5aICDyorM

But you do need an air pump for it.

The shrimp will glaze off the sponge and it will help encourage breeding.

I would not recommend no filter unless your tank is heavy planted but water movement is beneficial to spread out nutrients/co2 to plants.

I don't know that much about Red Lotus in particular but bulb plants I grow outside have all they need to grow stored in the bulb itself, they can grow into a full sized plant in a cup of water without any soil. Your Red lotus may be using the nutrients in it's bulb to grow well even without bright lights. I would go for this Nicrew it's $40. It will give you light you need to to try more varieties
of plants and see them really thrive. If you want to save more money try a 30" LED shop light from Home Depot, don't worry that it's not made for growing plants, in my experience overall brightness(intensity) is much more important than wavelength(color temperture)

NICREW Deluxe LED Aquarium Light, Full Spectrum LED Light for Planted Tanks, 20 to 24-inch, 18-Watt, 1200 LM, 7500K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LJKNWS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Just bought this for a 10g I'm setting up. It's super crisp and relatively cheap. If you have a rimless tank the supports will sit nicely on it.

What size tank is that? In my experience you have to seriously overdose iron to keep even a reddish color, I use seachem iron added to the minor elements while estimative index dosing. With that light if your tank is less =< 18" tall, you will need some carbon added. You may be able to get away will excel for a bit but long term going with an "estimative index" fert and co2 injection will be cheaper and easier.

Also, swords are heavy root feeders so you definitely need to get some root tabs for them the grow and flourish.

This is my current co2 setup that's easy to put together and only cost a few dollars every few months to fill for my 29g:

Empire Paintball 24oz CO2 Tank - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XKFQCM

AQUATEK CO2 Regulator Mini - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008TJCPSY

Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G (Note you can choose a different diffuser if you want)

AQUATEK CO2-Proof Tubing 16 Feet - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UCOFJW

Fluval CO2 Indicator Kit - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052M9886

I bought this light for a 10 gallon. It was a great price and provides great light.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0191EWII2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511737052&sr=8-3&keywords=aquarium+light

Thanks! I added this so that my dwarf hairgrass would do better. The stock light did a good job with low-light plants but I wanted a carpet. :)

These babies are what you want. They have done wonders for two of my sand/gravel substrate tanks. All stem plants are bright red or deep green and growing surprisingly quickly. I also dose flourish excel every other day.

Sorry to keep bugging you but does something like this seem like it would work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CO2-Regulator-aquarium-Two-Gauge-Solenoid-Magnetic-Valve-CGA320-US-thread-110V-/272333167283?hash=item3f68525ab3:g:YSEAAOSwyLlXprmJ

https://www.amazon.com/Tank--Aluminum-Cylinder-CGA320-Valve/dp/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1472673301&sr=8-7&keywords=5+lb+co2+tank (actually found it for 5 bucks cheaper here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3L3Q6EPZRMXO8)

That gets me to ~$110 for full setup as I realized I have a power head I can feed the co2 into for dispersal.

Thanks for your responses.

This is the one I use: Rhinox Glass Drop Checker Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zUCzyb0RP1WZ4

Works well for me. It cleans easily with a peroxide soak and some shaking. I clean it and change indicator solution about every 3 months. The glass is pretty sturdy, haven't had any issues yet.

I've gone the DIY c02 route and it is just not worth it. You can buy a regulator and 5lb tank off amazon for like 120$ and that will set you up for a year. Then it's like 15$ per refill. You can dial the c02 to whatever level your tank needs. IMHO I'd get pressurized c02 just so I don't have to deal with algae problems.

The number of hours spent refilling soda bottles, growing yeast, cleaning, dealing with c02 swings and no precise control with very very little benefit to show for it. Easily cost more than 120$ in time, effort and supplies.

Tank

Regulator

hey yes. It was ... i dont have anything else. Just good light and good substrate.
https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC/

I got this to replace it instead.

Thanks for your responses! I'm going to answer both your comments here. My tank is 2.5ft wide by 1.5ft in depth and 40 gallons. I would like it to be sexy if possible. So no home depot, I know the stand is misleading but I'm taking everything one step at a time, and it does its job. I would have gone with the finnex but they do not ship outside of the USA and I live in Canada. I checked out the Current USA satellite plus and found this in my price range

http://www.amazon.ca/Current-USA-Satellite-Freshwater-Light/dp/B00CMFFMS6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1426817041&sr=8-6&keywords=current+usa+satellite+plus

As I said I am curently alternating a liquid CO2 and a liquid with trace elements for plants. I have to still get a fertzlizer but was told I had time due to my small number of plants. I have a 2.5 inch fluoride bedding and my water condition is great. However my plants are just not flourishing, in fact in the weeks I have had them they have been diminishing. Hence I think my one bulb fluorescent light setup is the culprit. Should I purchase this current? Or am I missing something?

Thank you! Are there any other plants just like that? I also bought this light do you have any clue how much I'd have to manage the light to make sure Algae doesn't grow?

I use this amazingly tiny HOB on my 2.5 gallon, works very well (although I did replace the media with better junk) has an adjustable flow rate, takes up very very little space inside the tank, and is quiet.

the lighting really depends on what type of plants you want in there I've successfully grown high light requirement plants in a nano tank with This 13w clip light

Ive seen good reviews of this 10inch finnex planted+ LED clip light as well, but don't have any personal experience with it.

Ok I kind of figured. That was the only one I saw at the price.

Do you think this 4 in 1 diffuser would be good? I have a 6 gal fluval tank this will be for.

Yosoo U-shape DIY 4 in 1 Co2 Diffuser for DIY Co2 System Check Valve Bubble Counter Planted Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YA5L0TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iqh6AbKMCAJR5

And this air line

UEETEK 5 M Silicon Aquarium Pump Hose Standard Airline Tubing with 2 PCS 4 MM Aquarium Check Valves for Aquariums Fish Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072NB7NXP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Qrh6Ab4KB4WW4

May get another larger tank later down the road to move this setup to, not sure though.

Edit: oh and would I need one of those glass drop checkers like this:

Rhinox Glass Drop Checker Kit - 3 Seconds to Read CO2 levels - 3 Minutes to Setup - Fastest way to ensure sufficient Co2 in Planted Aquarium - Includes pH Reagent indicator solution & Color chart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1sh6AbJ3EP8Q1

Currently using a friends light that he’ll need back soon, offered it until I get one myself.

Came across the current usa satellite freshwater led plus and seen mostly good reviews. Any input on this light or others with medium light (doing low tech so no need for too intense) and reasonable price.

Tank is a 20g long with AquaClear 30 filter. Using Excel for plants and Topica Aquarium Powder Soil.

NICREW lights are nice and cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/

If you get their timer, then that's about $30 total and you get a timer and dimmer with it. Using a dimmer has been a nice universal solution to my algae issues:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYLX2P6/

Yep I just got my co2 setup about a month ago, so I feel you. A drop checker is a thing you put in your aquarium that holds a liquid that will change color to let you know if you have a good amount of co2 in your water.

Something like this is perfect but you can get fancier looking glass ones too. This one is nice cause it comes with liquid and the drop checker. Otherwise you may have to buy the liquid separately.

If you are just doing shrimp, you want: a 10 gallon, sponge filter, sand, catappa leaves/alder cones/driftwood, and a heater. Set it up, drop shrimp in, and leave the tank alone

If you want a planted tank with shrimp: a 20 gallon long will give plenty of room to scape with. Use a hob with a sponge intake, a light like this, and driftwood with moss atached or whatever scaping material/plant you fancy.

Both ways are super easy, plez ask away if you have more questions

I've had extensive experience dealing with cyano in my 20 long. The most effective solution for me was to use spot treat with Hydrogen Peroxide. Here's the rough process I used:

1. Remove as much Cyano as I could with a toothbrush
   
2. Turn off the filters and pumps to stop water flow
   
3. Keep the fish and other inhabitants away from the treatment area using barriers
   
4. Use a dropper to squirt H2O2 on the bacteria directly. This will cause the bacteria to bubble up like an air stone and you can clean up the remains using a net.
   
   In my case, reducing ferts and light for a while helped outbreaks. Another option is to use commercially available product like this:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Ultralife-Green-Slime-Stain-Remover/dp/B000QSK31M
   
   but I do not have personal experience with that particular product.

Is this the liquid CO2 you mention?

Sounds like my set up isnt too bad then, just need the light.

I'm excited to really focus on the plants in this tank.

Does it matter what kind of filter I get in terms of the plants? I was thinking a Fluval C3 hang on.

I have one of these in my 2.5gal RCS tank, and it's UH MAAAY ZIIIING. Quiet, and if you take a pre filter sponge, cut it one one side, and wedge it under the outflow there will be almost no surface agitation, like this.

I also have this one and it's great too, but it's REALLY powerful despite it's size. You can put a sponge on the outflow to disperse it too though.

If you have a hydroponics store nearby, a lot of them do CO2 tank rentals. It works like propane rentals, you put a deposit on an initial (full) tank and you pay to switch them out when you are empty. If you ever drop CO2 or need your money back, you just return the tank for your deposit.

For a regulator, I recommend going with a full regulator. Even if you ultimately go with a paintball sized canister, you can use an adapter to go down. While you can get an adapter to go the other way (paintball regulator on a full tank), it's much more limiting on the future. The Aquatek regulators are hit or miss (some people love them, some hate them), but I haven't had a problem with mine, and it was by far the cheapest option. GLA regulators are a work of art but much harder on the budget.

Aquatek regulators come with an integrated bubble counter and check valve, but you can use any check valves including the dollar ones at any pet store. Bubble counters are relatively cheap, but if you end up using a ceramic diffuser most have a bubble counter built in. You can get cheap ceramic diffusers on Amazon.

If you run a canister, I'd recommend just getting an Ista reactor. It's not much more money, it's less maintenance than cleaning diffusers, there's less CO2 lost, and less clutter in your tank. If have a canister you want to go something more sleek, you can get an in-line atomizer but I believe these require occasional maintenance compared to a reactor.

Dunno why my plant went from being bright green, to only new growth being bright green and bottom leaves/stem browning/melting. I suspect is low K. Not sure if the stems will bounce back or if I should cut my losses and replant the tops. Any advice?

• 3 gal Betta tank
  
• Amm: 0
  
• 'trites: 0
  
• 'trates: 15-20 ppm
  
• Dosing: 1.5x dose Excel daily, ProFito for trace 3x a week
  
• Light: 13 watt Fluval compact floro 8 hours a day

Gotcha, thanks! Would this one be good, you think? https://theplantguy.ca/collections/substrate-1/products/plantguys-slow-release-substrate-fertilizer-50-100-or-200-tabs-free-shipping

Comparing it to, say API Root Tabs or Seachem root tabs, it's got a much higher percentage of N, P & K.

https://www.amazon.ca/API-Freshwater-Aquarium-Fertilizer-0-4-Ounce/dp/B003OYMOWQ

https://www.amazon.ca/Seachem-67105050-Flourish-Tabs-10-Count/dp/B000255QLG/

Howdy, I'd recommend

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 Fully Automated Aquarium LED, Controller, 48 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0HMX1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M8Vxzb90TRN23

It's worked well on all of my tanks, and you really gwt what you pay for. It may cost double what you're planning on paying there. But the results are real (depending on how you maintain your tank ofc)

But it (the finnex brand) is really reliable. Here's a youtube of my shabby tank lol https://youtu.be/iD4Vui4fYmo

Lominie LED Aquarium Light,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07236CXBQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glosso Factory All in one Planted Aquarium Fertilizer, 16oz, with Balanced Micros and Macros, Easy to use, Treats 4,730 gallons https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759VRZ6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apap_far7hCLRvszUJ

Seachem Flourish Excel Bioavailable Carbon - Organic Carbon Source for Aquatic Plants 500 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000256962/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_cyP2DbCH8S7VF

I use the Flourish every day (1ml) and glosso Factory twice a week (1 pump).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ID3OK3S/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this light on my 20 long. Good luck so far.

This is what I've got going on.

I bought this cap/hose system

This diffuser

You don't absolutely need a bubble counter but you could buy one if you want to be more precise. Also, the cap/hose thing allows for an easy and simple set up.

I'm running the 20 inch Finnex Stingray. I was worried it would be too low light but it seems to be working fine. I also get a couple hours of indirect ambient light from outside hitting the left side of the tank.

I also use a siesta light cycle. I use a timer to turn the lights on between 7am and noon, off from noon to 4:00 and then on again from 4-9pm. Helps keep the c02 levels up and algae down.

Substrate is about 3/4" miracle grow organic choice potting mix, and about an inch of spectrastone gravel.

And no dosing. The dirt does the work.

Finnex Stingray Aquarium LED Light, 20-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAFQ6FK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Hx9aYepIqhl9o

Spectrastone Special Black Aquarium Gravel for Freshwater Aquariums, 25-Pound Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DHKI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mZuyBmBB33TVi

Miracle-Gro 72986510 Organic Choice Potting Mix, 16-Quart (currently ships to select Northeastern & Midwestern states) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQLVNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_1xxL3WbowmVhP

I would check out the Nicrew LED lights on Amazon. They aren't much more expensive than a T8 bulb and will last much longer. The classicLED is very reasonable at about $28. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C84SLRO/

I have one of the BrightLED units on my planted 15g and it is great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LJKNWS/

This was recommended to me:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QSK31M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_RNZ6Cb5GA4C8H
I just started using today so we'll see if it works in a week.

Edit: Loooove the moss by the way. Really pretty tank!

I use the adaptor for the paintball setup, I used to play paintball so had a tank, what I forgot was how easy o-rings get damaged and after a weekend of setup needed new ones to run the adaptor, messing and checking for leaks meant putting the tank on and off. Got a 100 pack of o-rings and been using that adaptor and the rather cheap wyn co2 regulator off Amazon of the same colorway.

At the price of the linked kit, I probably saved a little, piece parting only took a little time, assurance of a more expensive regulator may be a comfort, I knew how they should work and researched mechanism to know I could mess with the one I got if I had a problem.

Rhinox Glass Drop Checker

Aquario Neo CO2 Diffuser S

Adapter

[CO2 Regulator] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4MBF4Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_w1RTVFzwfDilY)

[Indicator Solution ] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MJBNLX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_MHSRWpefnxKji)

Tubing 16 Feet

[100 o-rings]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HI6F3W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

Sand should be fine - you'd just need to get root tabs to place directly below the plants, since most of them are root feeders. You can either buy commercial root tabs like the ones linked, or make DIY Clay Root Tabs

Either way, you'll need to add some sort of root tab to your substrate for the plants. Lots of "low-tech" planted tanks use normal sand, so you'll be okay with that substrate.

https://youtu.be/4c4MoOD-zpI

All hail cory from aquarium co-op...


And this stuff works great

Ultralife Blue Green Slime Stain... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QSK31M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Look into buying some Seachem fluorish, it's got just about everything you need to fertilize your tank, except for the potassium. I would start with that to see if that fixes the issue. If new leaves start coming in damaged, or old leaves continue to brown, Seachem also makes a potassium supplement that you can dose in addition to the fluorish. I'd also recommend adding some source of bioavailable carbon to your tank, fluorish excel would be good for your needs. As long as you follow the dosing directions your fish will be fine.

You also say that your sister does changes every two weeks then cleans the glass by wiping the algae away. What percentage of the water would you say she changes? Also, got any pictures of the tank?

I love mine....

NICREW DeluxeLED Aquarium Light, Full Spectrum LED Light for Planted Tanks, 20 to 24-inch, 18-Watt, 1200 LM, 7500K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LJKNWS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ROMGAbTP07C1S

thanks! , I currently have 2 filters running, the sponge filter is here: Sponge Filter Link, and my other filter is a Marineland Penguin Biowheel 75, my light is the Marineland Advanced LED Strip Light, anywhere from $60 to $100 for 18", depends on where you look

That's a good gravel but it will be hard to carpet small plants in because of the size of the pebbles. So I'd suggest mixing a smaller more nutritious substrate in the areas you want to put your smallest plants. like Flourite
and also bury some fertilizer tabs

It could be cyanobacteria then.

From research I've found that cyanobacteria thrives in tanks with less then 10ppm of nitrates and also high light levels.

If you dose ferts I would raise the nitrates up to the 20ppm that is optimal for plant growth and use Ultralife blue green slime stain remover to wipe out the cyanobacteria that is present in the tank.

If you don't dose anything I would look at easy green from aquarium coop to see if you can get the nitrogen levels up and also use the ultralife to wipe it out.

I use this sponge filter. I have been using it for months and my adult and baby shrimp love grazing and chilling out on it.

This Azoo Mignon 60 is a great little filter: https://www.amazon.ca/Azoo-AZ13097-AZOO-Mignon-Filter/dp/B005VEWCMO I'm using it on my 10L vase. It's a HOB so takes up less tank space than internal or air filters. It has adjustable flow so you can turn it down if you find there's too much current.

Finnex Stingray is a great option.

https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Stingray-Aquarium-Light-20-Inch/dp/B00NAFQ6FK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493672499&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+stingray

http://i.imgur.com/kujrMR6.jpg
2.5 gallon

Fauna: 4x White Cloud Minnow

Flora: Hemianthus Callitrichoides
Cryptocoryne Parva
Marimo Moss
Unknown plant in the back. Trying to find something to fill in the back.

Driftwood: Manzanita

Equipment: Beamswork 12" LED
Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano Filter
Rhinox Glass Drop Checker
Rhinox 1000 Glass Diffuser
Empire Paintball 24oz. CO2 tank
AquaTek Mini CO2 Regulator
AquaTek CO2 Tubing
DIY Teabag + Activated Carbon filter
Plug Timer

Dosing: 0.5 mL/day Flourish Excel
0.5mL/week Flourish Comprehensive
CO2: 8 hours, Light: 8 hours, offset 30 minutes.

I don't know if you can find this exact one in Australia, but I have one of these in each of my 2.5g and they are fantastic. Barely any surface agitation

I have had excellent results with this product. Follow instructions to the T.

Ultralife Blue Green Slime Stain Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QSK31M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_74cQCb4MWD10K

finnex stingray

If you want a little more light/features and ability to grow a little more in a low tech, I recommend the Current USA satellite+, it's what I use on my 10gal.

Currently full of low tech plants:

Lots of Java Ferns

Anubias Petit

Staurogyne Repens

Crypts

Bacopa

Jungle Vals

I have the HOB Filter on the side so the entire tank gets good flow and have this light in the center.

Dose with ferts and have some homemade root tabs. Occasionally use Flourish Excel.

Any glaring issues I'm not seeing?

I run this set up on all of my < 10 gal tanks:

regulator with solenoid

co2 tank

adapter

diffuser

drop checker

Add to that any tubing rated for co2 and you’re good to go

It's definitely a pain! The algae on the carpet is diatoms, which will pass eventually on its own but I'm trying to keep things under control in the meantime. If you manage to find a quick fix, let me know (!), but here's what I've been doing in the meantime with some success:

• Started dosing my all-in-one fert with a half-dose daily, instead of a full-dose every other day. I use Thrive+. This seems like it has made the biggest difference so far.
  
• Monitoring my nitrate levels regularly and doing large water changes whenever levels are >40~ ppm.
  
• Added 10 amano shrimp and 3 otocinclus catfish.
  
• Settled on 8-hours of light. Any more or any less both seemed to lead to more algae.
  
• Dosing Seachem Excel after each water change.
  
• And as a last resort, I'll physically remove the algae with my hands/a brush or just trim off any particularly bad leaves.
  
  Still haven't gotten rid of it but things seem to be headed the right direction.

My lights. i dose 5ml for my 20g. They My plants don't show any deficiencies save for my red flame sword, they aren't as red as they should be.

Sure! I had started a thread here when I was buying my parts.

• CO2 Regulator
  
  
• 20oz CO2 Tank
  
  
• CO2 Diffuser

light link

I think it's a good deal for under $20

http://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Satellite-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B00CMFFMS6

I have the Current USA Satellite Freshwater LED Plus on my spec. I really like it.

this product worked like magic on my tank

I've heard a lot of people recommend the Finnex PX-360.
http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462838297&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+px-360

Does the aquatop canister look like the Finnex PX-360 one?

I couldn't remember if Finnex & Aquatop had the same canister, or it was Finnex & Azoo.

I have a 3-gallon planted tank and this is what I use:

http://www.amazon.com/KollerCraft-Aquarium-Mini-Internal-Filter/dp/B00176GKM8

It's an internal filter which if you can hide behind some hardscape or plants looks a lot better than a HOB filter I think.

Yeah, fwiw this is the version I have https://www.amazon.ca/NICREW-Freshwater-Aquarium-Bright-Length/dp/B071LJKNWS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1541947339&sr=1-1&keywords=nicrew+deluxe

My guess would be doubling lighting. My java ferns are growing without problems under 23W daylight CFL (over 12" high 3 gal tank) and another with Nicrew LED lights over 5 gal, both without fertilizing.

Just letting you know, there are [three of the 20” available on Amazon for the discounted price: $34] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00U0HMWHW/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1&th=1). Just in case that was the size you wanted!

Well, I'm no lighting expert by any means, but this is the light I ended up putting on my small tank:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QSV8XK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_H7hjub0T3NGZW

It says it's recommended for tanks of 4-8 gallons, and the bulb is fluorescent. Everyone on here is always saying how fluorescent trumps LED and such, so that's what I went with. I've only had it a week, so I can't speak for longevity or effectiveness, though.

I use this light on my 3 gal. Don't know your budget, but look under the New & Used and there's an amazon warehouse one for $20. Otherwise, the CFL+desk light the other guy said is the cheapest option.

[This one] (https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LIL7YPE&pd_rd_r=25ce5c9e-e267-11e8-8349-9126162516c7&pd_rd_w=hldgy&pd_rd_wg=Jz5r5&pf_rd_i=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=57b46099-d750-4d74-83ee-63ad64b310a4&pf_rd_r=JJ92WT8SGYJ1YY6N57MC&pf_rd_s=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=JJ92WT8SGYJ1YY6N57MC) if you are really wanting to get into plants if not [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC) will do fine.

We've bought two finnex products in the last year.

Neither has lasted through the year

One, the power supply went out after ~9 months, right outside warranty. We had to buy a replacement for $30.

The second we have not figured out what went wrong. We're tried new PS, as they are commonly the problem with these units, and a new remote. Finnex wants us to send it in on our dime after we've already spent $30.00 replacing the power supply and another $10.00 to replace the remote.

I love the idea of an planted tank LED, but Finnex is not the answer.

I got it off amazon

Rhinox Nano CO2 Diffuser - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058XWDFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E-N8BbVBCYAE0

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 on Amazon preorder.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00U0HMX1C/

For reference it hasn't been this cheap on Amazon.

Finnex StingRAY LED Clip Light for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH10HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kIAGyb1VZFDRC

That would work, you won't need a plant specifically for planted tanks but I wouldn't get something crazy cheap either.

My only guess would be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rhinox-Nano-CO2-Diffuser-Pressurized/dp/B0058XWDFO/

That's about 1 x 2 inches. It's your basic diffuser - you'll get lots of micro bubbles, it's not the most efficient, but it should work.

I wasn't getting very good plant growth and had lots of algae problems until I got a drop checker. I guess i suck at counting bubbles in the bubble counter. Life in my tank has been great since I got one.

This is the one I picked up. The suction cup on it sucks balls tho. I have to push it back in every couple of days. This one may be a better option.

I have them. They're pretty much useless. Just spend a little more and get the finnex sting ray. http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC

No. That's how their "Buffer" line of products work work. Their "Regulator" line (+ Discus Buffer) are phosphate based. If you use those and then crank up your Co2 until pH drops, you are going to kill your fish. http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/DiscusBuffer.html

Why not just use a drop checker? This one is $12 and even comes with the solution (not just pH drops) so you don't need to worry about the KH ans phosphate values of the solution mixture. http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A7551-CO2-Indicator-Kit/dp/B0052M9886/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_0_0

Second on this if you want to filter... was expecting to see someone say the one sunsun canister... NOT a fan of the stock sponges, the vibration, or cleaning it...

It can function just fine, just not my favorite can after using a bunch of the larger ones... I also have seen some people use this guy here: https://www.amazon.com/KollerCraft-Aquarium-Mini-Internal-Filter/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1498488509&sr=8-12&keywords=nano+filter

Tank is a custom 34gal tall. Looking to upgrade the old single 24in t12 bulb to led. As the t12 is simply not cutting it for my plants.

Trying to decide between a set of high CRI led floodlights, and a 18w Nicrew led bar.

The floodlights are similar to these, but cost $15 from my local electrical supply house. Using high cri philips LED. 5500K color.

Lookalike floods: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01LXRTJZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UK-TAbYC1JEJA


Nicrew: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SM-TAbXJHQ2Z5

What are your thoughts on this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QSK31M?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

That's the Azoo "external power filter" that matches up with the Finnex, though the Finnex is significantly cheaper.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mini-Power-Compact-Lamp/dp/B004QSV8XK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377709799&sr=8-1&keywords=fluval+compact+light


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|Canada|amazon.ca|



This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).

I have a drop checker Bubble Counter at roughly 2 BPS. I also just got one of the Fluval CO2 indicators seen here, http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A7551-CO2-Indicator-Kit/dp/B0052M9886. I need fluid for it though. I'm wondering how I know if the CO2 is actually being absorbed in the water for the plants.

• What is your water temp?
  
• What light are you using and for how many hours?
  
• What substrate are you using?
  
• Are you diffusing your CO2 or just releasing large bubbles?
  
• Are you testing your CO2 levels? You can get a drop checker kit for $12 on amazon if not.
  
• What are you using for water circulation in the tank?
  
• What are you dosing and how often?
  
• What are your water changes like? This is important, you will read places that tell you to do 50%, 25%, with experience to backup each. I spent a shit ton of money on dwarf baby tears before I found the only way to keep them alive was with a 10% water change 1-2x per week. Once I figured that out, they exploded.

try the azoo mignon hang on the back filter. very small and discreet https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

im also looking for a 3gal filter, this was recommended many times when i asked around http://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

this finnex one is tempting http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Pure-5-Power-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004NP66M4

I've used this HOB filter with a nano tank.

is it this? Current USA Satellite Freshwater LED Plus Light for Aquarium, 24 to 36-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CMFFMS6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ARf4wbWB18Y5S

Here is the light:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CMFFMS6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3TCKHD4OEW0MC&coliid=I1GHRDJSCMP3P9&psc=1

Stingray LED Cliplight.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LMH10HC/ref=sxts_bia_sr_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496087222&sr=1

Finnex Stingray (if $40 is what you consider cheap).

I am trying to decide between these two:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GH9HSI0/?coliid=IS63UYPU585PA&colid=35BZPHCLURD0R&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

and

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAFQ6FK/?coliid=IH2ZEINNYWJAS&colid=35BZPHCLURD0R&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Does S. Repens need high light ? I am going to be using a Finnex Stingray

Here are the two:
http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMWHW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449806814&sr=8-1&keywords=planted+tank+light

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Planted-Aquarium-Moonlights/dp/B00GH9HSC6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1449806814&sr=8-3&keywords=planted+tank+light

I just noticed you said cheap, my b

https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-KL-C30A-Planted-Aquarium-Light/dp/B00U0HMWHW/ref=asc_df_B00U0HMWHW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312134270368&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=219248835464729464&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011807&hvtargid=pla-590274858415&psc=1&th=1

Found this on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMX1C

I'd get a single 48" simply because it's 1 power cable instead of 2.

If you're already looking at the Finnex Planted+, you should consider about the Finnex Planted+ 24/7 for its built-in timer and color modes (sunrise, sunset, moonlight, etc).

If I had the need and the wherewithal, Mr. Banks... this would be my light fixture of choice.

Hey guys I might buy this light but I also saw a couple in the close price range and was wondering... thoughts?

• satelite led plus 115.99 Amazon
  
• finnex planted+ 24/7 123.30 Amazon
  
• finnex planted+ 133.24 Amazon

I believe the new model is out that allows for controlling them separately.

Edit: just pre-order for may. http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMX1C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425579837&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+planted%2B+24+7

This one: NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light with Extendable Brackets, White and Blue LEDs, 6W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=twister_B0772N6YMJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID3OK3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

75 liters. Long.

bough this just now
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID3OK3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just a standard 10g , The light is a Nicrew Deluxe 20-24”

Full timeline here:

https://imgur.com/a/E1Xwrlj

​

specs:

Nicrew plant light (here)

eheim 50w heater

eheim 2211 canister filter

ista CO2 controller (Here)

inline CO2 diffuser (here) [not this actual one but essentially the same]

ADA amazonia

ADA powersand

Maintenance:

25% water change every 21ish days

1 cap flourish 2x per week

1 cap iron 2x per week

1/2 cap nitrogen 2x per week