Top products from r/PrintedMinis

We found 47 product mentions on r/PrintedMinis. We ranked the 128 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/PrintedMinis:

u/Zemerick13 · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

First up, I recommend dropping the IPA. It's actually MORE toxic than most any resins ( such as the Elegoo you got. ) Just get some Simple Green. It's actually slightly better at cleaning, for less money, and far safer. Only downside I have noticed really is when shaking it obviously foams up.

For curing chamber, I honestly just use 2 cardboard boxes. 1 small 1 to place prints on, 1 as the outer box with a hole on top where I place a blacklight lamp. ( I got: this one which works great: ) I haven't yet bothered with aluminum foil inside, I just turn the parts a few times.

There will be a lot of variables in curing time, so you just kind of have to figure it out, but it's also not a delicate thing. The main "issue" from over curing is some colors ( especially white ) will change color a bit. ( In the case of white, it will get the classic sun damaged plastic yellow/brown depending on how long it's cured for. ) It won't really hurt the part unless you WAY overcook it. With my 30w lamp a few inches from the parts, I usually do around 5 mins per side.

For cleaner, you can add me to the long list of pickle jar users:

It's perfect for the situation, though that one is a hair small for max sized stuff. This way you can give it a good shaking, stirring, spinning, sifting, the works. The strainer makes it perfect for getting smaller parts back out. It's basically the ideal object, at least for manual cleaning. Hit the cleaner with your UV lamp for a couple minutes every now and then to pull most of the resin out. ( This also works for cleaning up any resin mess you do manage to get around. Table, sink, sides of the printer, etc. )

I then just use my sink to rinse off after the cleaner bath.

I do recommend leveling every time you remove the build platform. It's easy, and can make a difference.

If you got the new little plastic piece with your printer that your plate can attach on to, this is to let your part and build platform drip back into the vat. You take your platform off, slide the plastic part on in its place, then the platform onto the part.

A note about the fumes: With the Elegoo resin, they are pretty minimal while printing. It's during curing that they can really get going, so keep that in mind to minimize exposure. Personally I use a large bathroom/walk-in closet, with the door closed and vent fan running all the time and this pretty much removes all of the fumes.

Contrary to popular belief the orange cover is not to protect your eyes. The resin absorbs the UV to start with, as that's literally its job. More importantly with the Elegoo Mars is that it uses 405nm which is really visible light ( aka blacklight ), and is extremely safe to start with. Rather, this cover is there to protect the resin sitting in the vat from any stray UV. So, you can leave the cover off for a bit to check on the part at the start, just remember to leave it covered for the bulk of the time, and try to keep any UV light far away.

Oh, a small thing I've been seeing so far with some testing: If you want tiny holes, square seems to work better than circular. ( Triangle/prism is pretty bad. ) I'm currently running some more specific tests on this though to figure out more details. It's just my early testing that showed square being more reliable, so keep that in mind.

u/ketnehn · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

Edit: just realized I didn't explicitly state that I was using the mp select mini. But yes, that is my printer

I realize this isn't a realistic option for many, but I've had fantastic success printing out minis with simplify3d. Super easy to use, and with some decent tweezer pliers removing any excess material in those nooks and crannies is extremely easy. Here is what I printed out an hour ago, just after removing the bulk of the supports.

u/FogeyDotage · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

Asking about the "best" filament for minis is kinda like asking people about the religion they prefer - people get all excited :) My own preference is AIO Robotics which has been always consistent in quality and thickness (doing four measurements on their PLA will always average out very, very close to 1.75 mm) Remember that there is cheap filament and good filament but I've yet to find filament that is cheap AND good.

I haven't used acetone like some other posters. My one "must have" finishing tool is really good sprue cutter like this one I got from Amazon: It will allow you to snip off junk very close to the model without breaking off delicate parts like swords and spears. I then finish up with sanding and filing with jewelers' files.


Good luck!

u/Dutty54 · 4 pointsr/PrintedMinis

I usually start the printer before I leave for work in the morning. When I get home I will clean them up, so they sit as long as 6 hours before cleanup on a normal day. I have let them sit for 12+ hours before with no noticeable effect.

The cleaning / support removal process takes maybe 20 minutes including cleanup of the workstation. I cure them for about 20 minutes in a curing chamber as well.

I don't clean my tank unless there are resin bits on the FEP that won't squeegee off. The few times I have cleaned it, I filter the resin through a paint filter back into the bottle, then let ipa rest on the FEP for about 30 seconds, squeegee, and repeat as necessary to break up any hardened resin. Gotta be careful with this, I ruined a FEP trying to pick off dried resin.

Once I have completed cleaning, I wipe down the LCD screen with a clean antistatic cloth that I only use for this purpose, and it (hopefully) never touches resin.

I printed a vat cover on my FDM printer to seal it off when I'm not using it.

For the build plate, I bought some cheap microfiber shop towels from the hardware store, and I cut them up into patches. I put a small amount of IPA on the patch and wipe down the build plate, then toss the patch. I use these for general cleaning of my tools as well.

I posted some costs above:

> I'm estimating this is 3 - 4 liters of resin. Resin is about $40 per liter. Anycubic Photon is for sale on Amazon right now for $270. There are some other expenses associated with a resin printer. Safety equipment (nitrile gloves, safety glasses, apron, ventilation if needed), cleaning supplies (IPA, IPA storage, Ultrasonic Cleaner is optional), and consumable parts for the printer (FEP and LCD screen have to be replaced periodically).
>I bought an ultrasonic cleaner because its easier. it was about $60. Also I recommend a ventilation system unless you can put this in a garage that people aren't occupying. Fan, duct, and carbon filter were probably $50 - $60 total.
>I wouldn't say its a cheap hobby, but it definitely could be worse.

Some procedural stuff:

I like to remove supports before IPA bath. It seems to give a better finish to any spots the supports make.

I have 3 IPA baths - An older "dirty" IPA bath, a large ziplock bag with IPA, and a newer "clean" bath.

After cutting supports, I dunk the minis in the dirty bath, then toss them in the ziplock bag. I put the ziplock bag in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with water for 5 minutes, as shown in this link

I then remove the models and do a dunk and a light shake in the clean bath, which is a pickle container with strainer

This all may be over kill but its pretty quick and hasn't failed me yet.

I remove and put the models in the UV chamber for 20 minutes, give or take.

I do all my work on a sheet of wax paper, so when I'm done I can wad up all my waste and toss it.

That is pretty much my process.

Occasionally I will set my sealed IPA containers in the sun so the resin drops out. I am still looking for a good way to filter the dry resin out of the IPA. For now it just settles at the bottom of the container.

u/Mia__Kay · 3 pointsr/PrintedMinis

Oh my wolf and his tiny feets haha Sorry about that! Spiders looks great though~

So, I'd go with gluing it back on or using it as a dead wolf mini. Super glue has worked swell for me when repairing minis. This has been recommended to me, and also works great. It is a bit more forgiving than super glue.


Mia Kay

u/TrueShoba · 5 pointsr/PrintedMinis

If you want to be on the save side you need the following (besides resin):

  • Isopropanol (99%)
  • Some kind of plastic jar, where you can fill Isopropanol inside to clean the print (like this one: )
  • Disposable Gloves
  • Safety Goggles
  • Either a well ventilated Working area or a respirator mask
  • A spatula since the one that comes with the printer is not very good.
  • A ton of paper towels
  • Microfiber towels, a few. Best would be two different colors. One to clean the inside of the resin vet and one for the outside/the display with a few drops of Isopropanol.
  • A few replacement FEP sheets for the vet, since that is one thing you have to replace after a while.
  • Some kind of metal/plastic tray. I put that on the table and the paper towels inside for when I remove the print, since I tend to remove support structures before curing the print.
  • Some UV Light to cure the print, but the sun does work as well.

    There are a few good tutorials how to handle a resin printer on youtube, I'd watch these to prepare as well.
u/Beef_Supreme46 · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

There is some work involved to clean them up, but it's really not that much hassle. I bought two of these pickle jars from Amazon and have filled them half way with 99% IPA, once the prints are finished I put on some nitrile gloves, get the prints off the print bed and into the first pickle tub and gently slosh them around in there for about a minute then use the pickle tray to easily get the prints out and into the other IPA pickle tub and give them another minute of rinsing. And then it's just removing the supports and giving them a bit of time in the sun or under a UV led lamp to harden.

u/C0smich0rr0r · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

Set up was super easy, old port screws right off and you screw the new one right one and then slap on a filter and a fan (any carbon filter should do but here’s what I bought that works well)

VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter...

VIVOHOME 4 Inch 195 CFM Plastic...

And finally some ducting-

iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Aluminum Foil Vent with 2 Clamps, Ducting

This really works well for me. The smell otherwise is intolerable. Carbon filters are really amazing.

u/zombiheiler · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

Its a great printer. Upgrade your springs and get an aluminum extruder. Those two things were so cheap, but definitely made a difference for me. I use a glass bed with a PEI sheet and have been very happy with it. I use eSun PLA Pro for my minis. Check out Tomb of 3d Printed Horros for their cura profiles and tips!

u/meleshik · 3 pointsr/PrintedMinis

i have an ender 3 pro and after saying no to any upgrades I finally started to see what everyone is talking about 6 months down the road. here is a list of things that you will see a lot of you tubers tell you to replace. the YouTube channel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors is a great resource for everything about the ender 3.

  1. new boden tube and couplings that are alot better to use then stock
  2. THIS IS A MUST HAVE! a new metal extruder (eliminates a crap ton of extrusion issues)
  3. Glass bed (best bed adhesion with 0 cleanup) this is optional but does solve a ton of issues down the road
  4. extra nozzles in a variety of sizes (not needed but nice to play with different sizes and to clear any clogs fast you can just replace the nozzle....i run .2, .4, and .8)

    the YouTube Chanel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a step by step build guide for your ender 3 ( i used it for mine) he will recommend most of this list as well. He also has other videos on the slicer settings you will use for Cura. for D&D models you can use this google doc list
u/gnomeinbrain · 6 pointsr/PrintedMinis

On a budget, there are three great choices for Mini Printing:

Anycubic Photon (not Photon S)

Elegoo Mars

Epax X1

Angus did say in his video on the Elegoo Mars that they are going to release a new version in the next few weeks. So, the current one may go even lower in price.

Check the forms here for info on each printer.

ETA: These are all DLP printers and the screens will need to be replaced every so often. Also, if you want the best quality minis, you would have to go to a true SLA. But there are no budget true SLA printers. They start with the Peopoly Moai at about $1,300.


u/lowflier · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

Looks like it has gone up $20 in the past few weeks

anycubic site

[amazon link](ANYCUBIC Photon UV LCD 3D Printer Assembled Innovation with 2.8’’ Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.53”(L) x 2.56”(W) x 6.1”(H) Printing Size

u/ArabTRWrist · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

I'm gonna drop my resin links here and some short descriptions

First off, get some various sizes buckets or containers for cleaning. I find that these sanitation pails are great. You can also just get cheap Tupperware. I use these for cleaning vats, tools, and I always set the bottle in them when refilling.

You should also get a good respirator. Any hardware store should have one.

For curing I made an acrylic box and put this lamp on it.
You could use cheaper LED strips etc.

Box. I use something similar with a mirror on the bottom. You could add foil or mirror film for the same effect.

Funnels, any hardware store has them. I bought a large oil funnel that I put the paint filter in and the tray also fits in. And just hang it above the bottle.

A ton of IPA! Hardware stores have this in 1 gallon tins.

Pro-tip this thing... But it's completely not necessary.

u/LiquidLogic · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis
  1. Nitrile Gloves
  2. Two sealable plastic containers for Isopropyl Alcohol. Pickle container with strainer
  3. 90% Isopropyl Alcohol
  4. Some type of 405nm UV light - I use UV strip lights

  5. Little Squeegee wiper things to clean resin off the FEP without damaging it.

  6. Optional but highly recommended: Organic vapor Respirator
u/freakycruz · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

That same product has been renamed/rebranded several times over the years.

Good thing though, once you buy a bottle you won't need to buy another one for probably 20 years :)

And yes, Pledge Revive It floor gloss. I grabbed some at Walmart, but it's available all over.

u/iaintnocog · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

EPAX X1 UV LCD Resin 3D Printer with 3.5 inch Touch Screen, Build Volume 115mm (L)65mm (W)155mm (H)

Pretty sure its asked on this one

u/Black_Omen · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

The stats on that machine aren't anything better than what other manufacturers offer. My suggestion? Get either the Anycubic Photon or the Moai.

$450 off Amazon with the instant coupon.


They sell a fully assembled version or the unassembled version MUCH cheaper.

Both of these systems have a large and active community. Both can use a wide variety of resins as well. The Moai has a bigger build plate and should mechanically last longer. Both will require you to replace the FEP film in the Vat. Which I managed to buy two square feet of it from McMaster Carr for $30 shipped. Both will print to the level of detail you need. The print files on the Moai are Gcode and therefore can use open source slucing software, the photon will have to be sliced in their program but prepping can be done elsewhere. The Moai will be slower to print because it uses a laser/galvo vs the Photon's LCD DLP.

I own two machines one of which is a Photon. I plan on purchasing the Moai 200 when it comes out this month as well. If there is anything else I can answer for you just ask!

u/wigsternm · 5 pointsr/PrintedMinis

It's only a dollar less than ordering it filled with d6s. It's a running joke in my friend group.

u/nickythegreek · 6 pointsr/PrintedMinis

I've successfully used carbon conductive spray paint on resin prints to create a conductive surface to electroplate.

u/kaihatsusha · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis


I have this as well, and it works great. The IPA smells stronger than the resins, but dissipates faster with ventilation. The resins are more toxic and linger in the room quite a while.

u/drwilhi · 5 pointsr/PrintedMinis

Buy an new extruder, the plastic one will start to wear out after your first roll of PLA. Get one of the all metal ones like this

u/cheapshotfrenzy · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

This is the stuff I use and it works great. It only works for certain plastics which has been nice because it peels off anything I accidentally get it on.

I've been meaning to coat some pieces with the stuff because it kind of melts the plastic to weld it together. Doesn't do it enough to disfigured the print but it might be enough to hide the layer lines.

u/cmcgarveyjr · 3 pointsr/PrintedMinis

Yeah, when it is not in stock, it wont show on searches. Here you go. Also, there is an elegoo mars facebook group. People will post when they are in stock.

u/Raikoh067 · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

Amazon. Some have gotten one for $250. I just bought one the other day for $260. They are selling out every time they restock within minutes. But as of this exact moment, they are in stock.

u/weinermd · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

This is what I use. The filters are sold separately.

u/JaqLerros · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

I got mine through Amazon (currently $256 US).

There are some additional costs to be aware of though.

  1. Resin (~$40): I'm using Elegoo Grey
  2. 99% IPA (~$3) For cleaning prints
  3. UV Light (~$30) for curing
  4. Gloves (~$10) It comes with some, but you'll be replacing those quickly
  5. Ventilation (~$100) depending on where you're printing.

    It can add up if you're not careful. So plan for an additional $200.
u/TheObstruction · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

I also live in an apartment. I've got a Photon, I used my Ender 3 to print this vent adapter and attached 4" dryer duct and an inline fan to it and vented it outside. Luckily my place is kind of dumpy, and I have a piece of plywood in the space that's left from my window AC, since I have sliding windows.

Honestly, the smell of isopropyl tends to be worse.