(Part 2) Top products from r/PrintedMinis

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We found 26 product mentions on r/PrintedMinis. We ranked the 128 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/PrintedMinis:

u/Busboy80 · 4 pointsr/PrintedMinis
  1. I use auto generated supports, but I use Chitubox for my slicing software

  2. I think there is a google spreadsheet running around here that had good setting for the different resins. I’m on mobile so I can’t find it.

    Edit: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app#gid=0

  3. People will tell you both. I prefer to take them off before it cures because it’s more malleable and doesn’t “shoot off” when I clip off the supports. It also clears the way so that the mini itself can get into the sunlight and be cured. But I’m sure there are people out there that will tell you to remove them after curing. Either way I fine I believe.

  4. It’s also better to angle your minis when printing. 45 degrees on its back, so that the front of the minis has less supports (or none). Also whenever I print flat I had more failures for some reason.

  5. Have fun! I love mine!

    Also to remove supports buy one of these and use the flat side towards the mini itself:

    Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
u/ketnehn · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

Edit: just realized I didn't explicitly state that I was using the mp select mini. But yes, that is my printer

I realize this isn't a realistic option for many, but I've had fantastic success printing out minis with simplify3d. Super easy to use, and with some decent tweezer pliers removing any excess material in those nooks and crannies is extremely easy. Here is what I printed out an hour ago, just after removing the bulk of the supports.

u/FogeyDotage · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

Asking about the "best" filament for minis is kinda like asking people about the religion they prefer - people get all excited :) My own preference is AIO Robotics which has been always consistent in quality and thickness (doing four measurements on their PLA will always average out very, very close to 1.75 mm) Remember that there is cheap filament and good filament but I've yet to find filament that is cheap AND good.

I haven't used acetone like some other posters. My one "must have" finishing tool is really good sprue cutter like this one I got from Amazon:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TMZ7QA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It will allow you to snip off junk very close to the model without breaking off delicate parts like swords and spears. I then finish up with sanding and filing with jewelers' files.

​

Good luck!

u/Timago · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

I think the most obvious improvement would be to decrease the layer height because the layer lines are very visible, at what layer height did you print?

For Cleanup i use a file set like this https://www.amazon.de/B20206-Feilenset-Mini-6-teilig/dp/B00AF0KT9M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536922382&sr=8-3&keywords=feile

But i must say it's a solid start already, good luck with further printing and running SKT! (Im starting it too atm, it's a really cool campaign if you ask me)

u/RiceZiggy · 4 pointsr/PrintedMinis

things i use, that you may already have/may not need depending on your application:

I hate to just say "upgraded grub screws" - but i cant recommend enough getting some hex-headed bolts from lowes/home depot. sadly ive forgotten the exact size, (i believe them to be m6x16mm but really want someone to confirm that. you'll need 2 of them, so i picked up 4 just in case). the included grub screws in the build plate locking mechanism are just so soft, and the allen keys just go through them like mush after 5-10 good torques.

painter's tool or similar - some kind of metal/hard plastic that will be able to get the prints off the build plate. the included spatula wont last long and I generally use it to mix resins that have separated in the vat. using it to also get prints off the build plate damages the plastic and increases risk of puncturing the FEP

lots of paper towels- wiping up drips, cleaning off the bottle drips, cleaning rim of the tank, cleaning off the spatula, placing print to dry after alcohol bath.

paint brushes- both medium and small. even with ultrasonic cleaner, ive seen some people say it doesnt get every nook and cranny and need to wipe down with a soft tip brush to get all excess resin off (i dont use an ultra sonic, but rather a "clean" and "dirty" ipa tubs to try and make sure as much of it comes off before curing)

x-acto knife - sometimes the micro-shears are just too wonky/large to clip a support without damaging the print.

sandpaper- 300 or so grit, not ultra needed, but depends on what you're doing. if printing minis i cant recommend some enough in order to get a smooth bottom on the base after all the supports come off

extra paint strainers - believe it comes with some, but go pick up a 50 pack at lowes, and wont need to worry about using the last of the 5 i think they give you for free

extra, opaque tupperware/jars/containers with wide top. i use old sour cream containers. just to pour off and strain resin into (far easier than trying to get it back into the bottle). can even use some as a final "last wash" ipa bath after ultrasonic cleaner.

random extra to consider: 1 mil kapton tape to seal the LCD and prevent spills from dripping down into the unit. ( https://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-Yds/dp/B006ZFQNT6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=kapton+tape+1+mil&qid=1574726246&sr=8-3 ) some might call it superfluous, but id rather not have my fep puncture then come to find resin all over the motherboard

- just a side note if doing the ultrasonic, put water in the actual tub, and put ipa in a ziplock bag, and put your print in the ziplock bag and seal it, then put the ziplock bag in the water. Wont have any clean out the ultrasonic tub, reduce IPA required to operate. reduce smell. reduce IPA vapors.

u/ArabTRWrist · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

I'm gonna drop my resin links here and some short descriptions

First off, get some various sizes buckets or containers for cleaning. I find that these sanitation pails are great. You can also just get cheap Tupperware. I use these for cleaning vats, tools, and I always set the bottle in them when refilling.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NC1WCJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kxtqDbNDXDS96

You should also get a good respirator. Any hardware store should have one.

For curing I made an acrylic box and put this lamp on it.
You could use cheaper LED strips etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LT53312/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dBtqDb0VTGF28

Box. I use something similar with a mirror on the bottom. You could add foil or mirror film for the same effect.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014QTXPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fEtqDbZ997GN6

Funnels, any hardware store has them. I bought a large oil funnel that I put the paint filter in and the tray also fits in. And just hang it above the bottle.

A ton of IPA! Hardware stores have this in 1 gallon tins.

Pro-tip this thing... But it's completely not necessary. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FTFD3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xLtqDbMGD060V

u/dex206 · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

After I paint any mini, I varnish it with gloss varnish, and then, most importantly spray the entire thing with Testor's Dulcote. It makes everything beautifully matte.

https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Spray-Lacquer-Clear-Coat/dp/B009FF6DN4

u/freakycruz · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

That same product has been renamed/rebranded several times over the years.

Good thing though, once you buy a bottle you won't need to buy another one for probably 20 years :)


And yes, Pledge Revive It floor gloss. I grabbed some at Walmart, but it's available all over.


https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C

u/wigsternm · 5 pointsr/PrintedMinis

It's only a dollar less than ordering it filled with d6s. It's a running joke in my friend group.

u/nickythegreek · 6 pointsr/PrintedMinis

I've successfully used carbon conductive spray paint on resin prints to create a conductive surface to electroplate.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OA931A

u/SomTingWon · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

Are tools like these what you were talking about?

Scissor

Cutter

u/thegamenerd · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

Usually what I do to dry my filament is put it in a food dehydrator set to 47C overnight. After that I store my filaments in a plastic bin that has lining on the brim of the lid. I throw a bunch of desiccants in there with the filaments and then I have a hydrometer in there to monitor the humidity. The humidity is so high where I live that leaving pla out for as little as a couple days will cause moisture issues.

I don't recommend using an oven because ovens usually swing pretty far on the temperature setting, and I've also never seen an oven that can be set as low as needed for pla. Here's a link to the food dehydrator I picked up. On mine the temperature setting is a little off but whatever temperature you set it to is rock solid. (i.e. I set the temp on the dial to 52C, it then reaches 47C and stays there all night long)

u/QFire000 · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

I use this. Works great

Plano Guide Series Stowaway Rack System, Tackle Storage with 4 Large Utility Boxes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E39T3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1PYzCb8XWQ41H

u/Siodhachan · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

I use a bunch of this boxes, you get 4 for $20 so $5 each, and you can store quite a bit in them

Picture for reference

u/NorthEcho1987 · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

I messed up the paint job on my resin mini with a gob of sealer. I used Purple Power cleaner; soaked it for 24 hours and it didn’t dissolve the mini. Here’s a link: https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O

u/JaqLerros · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

I got mine through Amazon (currently $256 US).

There are some additional costs to be aware of though.

  1. Resin (~$40): I'm using Elegoo Grey
  2. 99% IPA (~$3) For cleaning prints
  3. UV Light (~$30) for curing
  4. Gloves (~$10) It comes with some, but you'll be replacing those quickly
  5. Ventilation (~$100) depending on where you're printing.

    It can add up if you're not careful. So plan for an additional $200.