Top products from r/PrintrBot

We found 28 product mentions on r/PrintrBot. We ranked the 63 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/PrintrBot:

u/BillDaCatt · 3 pointsr/PrintrBot

First off, using an ATX power supply is not a mod. That is the original intended power supply for the Printrboard. There is a socket for the six-pin video card power plug right on the board. In fact, the barrel socket power port is just a jumper to that socket and must be unplugged to upgrade to an ATX power supply.

Some ATX power supplies do require a short bit of wire running from the green wire on the large connector to any black wire on the connector before they will turn on, but that isn't scary, is completely reversible, and isn't even required on all power supplies. You can buy a premade jumper for precisely that purpose. Some ATX power supplies even include the jumper connector.

Now to answer your original question: You are looking for a 12 volt power supply with an ampere rating of 6 amps or more and a 2.1mm X 5.5mm, center positive, barrel style plug. Something like this one should work for you.

Let me be clear in why I prefer the ATX power supply. The ATX power supply is SAFER than the smaller barrel plug power supply. If I was going to run my Printrbot and leave the house for a while, I would feel much better using the ATX power supply. For fire safety, the ATX power supply is the better choice. Sure, the wiring harness looks a bit like an octopus, but a few zip-ties or velcro wraps will tame that beast.

u/Jaegermeiste · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

I contacted PrintrBot about this and while I didn't get an answer about repairing the 13, they are shipping me a 13S. So props to PrintrBot support! The 13S construction appears to be all-metal up into the extruder block (I guess transferring heat to the extruder turned out not to be a big deal?) which means that weak spot is eliminated. They also sell parts for the 13S, unlike the 13, so I can fix things going forward if need be. It uses the same tips, so my tip collection is safe. I'll lose about 35C of heating capability (270C max on the PTFE-lined 13S vs 305C max on the all-metal 13), but if it is compensated for by reliability it will be well worth it. I don't print any exotic or filled materials, but I do print PETG and Nylon on occasion which can get up around 250C depending on the blend. As an example, as the injection-molded plastic clamps holding the linear bearings on my Play have cracked, I've replaced them with more pliable and stronger nylon replacements that I printed myself. To compensate against meltdowns I think I'll move up to a more reliable 40mm fan on the heatsink. I'll probably print the below duct in PETG, since it is more heat-resistant than PLA:

And I'll use the best 40mm fan I can find:

Still haven't figured out a lower fan solution that would work with the above on the Play, yet.

u/BeerXine895 · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

Nope. It was easy to install and its really easy to print from. If your comfy following some simple instructions using the command line you'll be fine. I still slice with Slic3r, I just use the stand alone program then upload the gcode to Octoprint.

By default the Octoprint package from Printrbot expects you to plug in a Ethernet cable so I would recommend getting a Edimax Wireless USB Adapter so the whole thing is actually wireless. The process for setting up this USB adapter with the Rasp Pi and Octoprint is pretty well documented. This way the only two cables you have are one USB for power to the Rasp Pi, and another USB going to the back of the Printrbot.

u/pbmaxz · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

This is the heater I bought:

Another option I didn't mention is to get a separate, adjustable voltage power supply and feed higher voltage to the bed heater PCB alone via a relay. Even a 24V power supply is probably safe here, though I would encourage you to do the math and use your own judgement to be sure. You could use the stock laptop power supply to run the printer itself.

u/derdnik · 3 pointsr/PrintrBot

Put a fan on it... My extruder was getting 'too-hot-to-touch' after 30-45 minutes of printing so I got this fan and zip tied it to the extruder. Now after the same 30-45 minutes of printing, the extruder is 'cool-to-the-touch'!

u/Daegs · 3 pointsr/PrintrBot

I've posted this before.. install a heat lamp:

Just put it right on your print bed, it will keep the ABS toasty. You still have to make sure there are no drafts, but its cheaper and easier than trying to build an enclosure.

u/shiftingtech · 5 pointsr/PrintrBot

I don't believe ATX power supplies have to be a mod, do they? The Printrboard has an ATX 6 pin port right on it, so then all you need is the connection on the mainboard connector to make it think there's a board there. That can be a diy project, but you can also buy premade ones like this

Edit: I can spell, really.

u/Stone356 · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

I've got a Jr where I've got some intermittent wobble issues. Tried unscrewing my lower stepper motor with some success but I'm fairly certain this should help a lot. I got this guy

u/sigismond0 · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

When in the same predicament as you, I went ahead and just made my own new bed:
(1/4" x 13.25" x 6.5")

All told, that's ~$50 for pretty much exactly the same thing. All you need to be able to do is drill holes in the corners of the plate.

u/thesilentguy101 · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

What is your fan setup for cooling the print as it is printing?

I found I had a lot of problems without having a fan blowing on the print as it's printing. I'm currently printing Hatchbox PLA and Makerbot PLA at 195-200c, 60c bed at 20-30mm/s and don't have any more curling issues since I put a full size blower fan in front of my printer. I also use painters tape and alcohol for bed adhesion.

This is the fan I have setup in front of my printer. I start it once I've got the first layer down.

u/WayGroovy · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

Don't use safe release. You want plain jane original 2090 blue 3m.

You might get the safe release to stick with a layer of AquaNet ultra/extra hold no scent

Or with some purple no show glue stick

But really, you'll want to eventually get a heated bed. Yes, this stuff can work, but you'll spend more on it over time than if you upgraded to a heated bed.


What filament are you using, brand type and possibly color? Got any pictures? What are your print settings?

u/8Complex · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

I did one like this -

I like it, but I can't recommend it over a "normal" pcb-type bed. The only real advantage it has is that the thermistor is embedded in the heating pad.

u/sbussinger · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

You could switch to one of the 12V LED supplies like and it wouldn't have all the extra cables.

u/archindividual · 2 pointsr/PrintrBot

Get this -

Then get this -

Cut the sheet to the size of the bed. Put the glue on the sheet with the old windex+credit card deal. Put the sheet on the bed the same way.

Adjust your Z height to account for the thickness difference.

Never ever worry about bed adhesion again, ever.

u/hololensful · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

I'm very close to making this work on my Simple Pro:


Same left-handed design.

u/veive · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

I'm currently waiting on my simple kit, but one thing that I have waiting to try to print is a bracket or coupling for a wire shelf. (you can see them on the left in the pic.

Edit: I also have small kids, so I need a pretty much endless supply of door knob covers, outlet covers, cupboard latches and so on, as these things break, get lost, and need to be replaced constantly.

u/BarkInTheDark · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

I have (less of a problem now) sticky bearing on my bed. I took the rod out and repacked the bearing with the stuff below.

What shocked me more about this goop was the harmonic I was getting on my Y axis as the belt was rubbing against the plate. I lubed up the side of the bet and that noise/harmonic went away. I had tried everything including constant tensioning of the belt and bolts of the stepper. It was seriously driving me nuts (and the wife) due to the noise. Now whisper quiet..