Top products from r/PrintrBot
We found 28 product mentions on r/PrintrBot. We ranked the 63 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown)
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
Premium quiet fan, 40x40x10 mm, 12V, 3-pin Molex, 4500/3700 RPM, max. 17.9 dB(A), >150,000 h MTTFAward-winning 40x10mm A-series fan with Flow Acceleration Channels and Advanced Acoustic Optimisation frame for superior quiet cooling performanceIdeal replacement for noisy or broken 12V 4cm fans in 3D ...
2. PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Off-White, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
PEI is a strong, rigid plastic that withstands high temperatures and offers excellent electrical insulation over a wide range of temperaturesColor is opaque off-whiteMeets ASTM D5205 PEI0113 specificationsStandard tolerance
3. PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
PEI is a strong, rigid plastic that withstands high temperatures and offers excellent electrical insulation over a wide range of temperaturesColor is opaque NaturalMeets ASTM D5205 PEI0113 specificationsNote: The Standard Cut Tolerance on the Width and Length is (+/-) 3/16”
4. eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
IN-DOOR USE ONLY!High quality Switch Power Supply Widely used in Industrial automation, LED display, communications, etc.You can choose the input voltage (110V/240V) by switch.Smart device surge protection for Shortage Protection, Overload Protection, Over Voltage Protection
5. 150x150mm 12V Silicone Rubber Heater for 3D Printer Heated Beds
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Most Even Heating Even to the Edges of All Heater TypesIncludes Integrated 100K Thermistor (Epcos #1 Table)FLEXIBLE and Requires Build Surface (Basalt, Aluminum, Glass etc.)Adhere with Silicone to Build Surface
6. CRJ 24-Pin ATX Power Supply Jumper Bridge Tool
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
ATX/EPS Power Supply Jumper Compatible With 20/24-Pin ConnectorMotherboard Is No Longer Necessary To Use An ATX Power SupplyHigher Gauge 18AWG Jumper Wire For Reliability In Long Use Scenarios
7. Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Supports 150 Mbps 802.11n Wireless data rate - the latest wireless standard. Permits users to have the farthest range with the widest coverage. (Up to 6 times the speed and 3 times the coverage of 802.11b.).Power Saving designed to support smart transmit power control and auto-idle state adjustmentS...
8. 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape, 12" squares (pack of 6)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
High speed processing of parts in the medical, telecommunications and electronics markets (medical components, durable labels, flexible circuits).Bonding graphic overlays for membrane switches and for bonding the complete switch to the equipment surface.Bonding metal nameplates and rating plates in ...
9. 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape, 1" Width x 5yd Length (1 roll)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
High speed processing of parts in the medical, telecommunications and electronics markets (medical components, durable labels, flexible circuits).Bonding graphic overlays for membrane switches and for bonding the complete switch to the equipment surface.Bonding metal nameplates and rating plates in ...
10. Phillips BR40 Heat Lamp Lightbulb, 250W, Infrared
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Energy efficient: Philips Indoor BR40 Flood Light Bulbs have an estimated annual energy cost of $7.83 (based on an average usage rate of 3 hours per day)Eco friendly: These Philips BR40 light bulbs use recycled glass and packaging material, reducing environmental impactVersatility: Providing comfort...
11. Uxcell LJ18A3-8-Z/AX NPN NC Tubular Inductive Proximity Sensor Approach Switch, DC 6V - 36V/300 mA, 8 mm
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Product Name: Inductive Proximity Switch. Model: LJ18A3-8-Z/AX. Theory: Inductive SensorWire Type:3 Wire Type (Black, Brown, Blue). Switch Appearance Type: Cylinder TypeOutput Type: NPN NC(Normal Close). Supply Voltage: DC 6-36V.Current Output: 300mADiameter of Head: 18mm. Detecting Distance: 8mm. R...
12. Huco 514H13.2222.Z Size 13 Oldham Coupling, Aluminum, Inch, 0.236" Bore A, 0.236" Bore B, 0.51" OD, 0.63" Length
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
For use in parallel misalignment scenarios requiring zero backlashAluminum alloy hubs for corrosion resistance and use in lightweight applicationsFlexible plastic torque disc for durability and low frictionTorque disc slides between the two axes of the hubs to accommodate misalignmentOperating tempe...
13. 8mm Shaft 330mm=12.992 Hardened Rod Linear Motion
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Round steel shaft for use with linear support blocks and closed type slide units in linear motion applicationsChrome plated for corrosion resistanceCase hardened for wear resistancePrecision ground for consistent ball bushing radial clearanceShaft diameter and length specified for accurate fit
14. Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W, Tip Size 5.52.5mm for LCD Monitor, LCD TV, 5050 3528 5630 LED Strip Light, Tape Light, Rope Light, Wireless Router, ADSL Cats, Security Camera
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Kastar AC Adapter 100% Guarantee to work as original LCD adapter, manufactured at the highest quality standards for ultimate reliability.Power Input: AC110-240V Worldwide Input Voltage, Please verify carefully that the DC Output (12V 6A) and connector Tip size (in the pictures) match your original a...
15. Royal Purple 01312 NLGI No. 2 High Performance Multi-Purpose Synthetic Ultra Performance Grease - 14.1oz.
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
Flash point: 221.00 degrees_celsius
16. Aqua Net Extra Super Hold Professional Hair Spray Unscented 11 oz
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Quality you can trust from Lorna MeadGreat Value!Extra Super Hold
17. Micro Swiss CNC Machined Lever and Extruder Plate Left Hand for FlashForge Creator Pro, Finder, Guider 2, QIDI TECH
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
High Quality CNC MachinedFits: FlashForge Creator Pro, FlashForge Finder, FlashForge Guider 2Made in USA by Micro Swiss
18. Elmer's Disappearing Purple School Glue Sticks, 0.21 oz, Pack of 2 (E522)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Goes on purple and dries clear so you can see where you are gluingSmooth for easy applicationAcid free, photo safe, non toxic and washablePack of 2 glue sticks
19. Lasko Portable Electric 42" Oscillating Tower Fan with Nighttime Setting, Timer and Remote Control for Indoor, Bedroom and Home Office Use, Silver T42951
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
BEAT THE HEAT – Powered by 3 speed settings H/M/L, fan is perfectly sized to aim over a high bed and powerful enough to blow across the room. If you live in the heat with no central air, and window AC units do a poor job of moving air around your whole house or apartment, this fan creates excellen...
20. Mommy's Helper Door Knob Safety Cover
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Deters curious children from entering rooms or closetsFits all standard door knobsLock Guard covers the door handle lock protecting against accidental lock outsContains 2 door knob covers. Age recommendation: 18 monthsEasy to install
First off, using an ATX power supply is not a mod. That is the original intended power supply for the Printrboard. There is a socket for the six-pin video card power plug right on the board. In fact, the barrel socket power port is just a jumper to that socket and must be unplugged to upgrade to an ATX power supply.
Some ATX power supplies do require a short bit of wire running from the green wire on the large connector to any black wire on the connector before they will turn on, but that isn't scary, is completely reversible, and isn't even required on all power supplies. You can buy a premade jumper for precisely that purpose. Some ATX power supplies even include the jumper connector.
Now to answer your original question: You are looking for a 12 volt power supply with an ampere rating of 6 amps or more and a 2.1mm X 5.5mm, center positive, barrel style plug. Something like this one should work for you.
Let me be clear in why I prefer the ATX power supply. The ATX power supply is SAFER than the smaller barrel plug power supply. If I was going to run my Printrbot and leave the house for a while, I would feel much better using the ATX power supply. For fire safety, the ATX power supply is the better choice. Sure, the wiring harness looks a bit like an octopus, but a few zip-ties or velcro wraps will tame that beast.
I contacted PrintrBot about this and while I didn't get an answer about repairing the 13, they are shipping me a 13S. So props to PrintrBot support! The 13S construction appears to be all-metal up into the extruder block (I guess transferring heat to the extruder turned out not to be a big deal?) which means that weak spot is eliminated. They also sell parts for the 13S, unlike the 13, so I can fix things going forward if need be. It uses the same tips, so my tip collection is safe. I'll lose about 35C of heating capability (270C max on the PTFE-lined 13S vs 305C max on the all-metal 13), but if it is compensated for by reliability it will be well worth it. I don't print any exotic or filled materials, but I do print PETG and Nylon on occasion which can get up around 250C depending on the blend. As an example, as the injection-molded plastic clamps holding the linear bearings on my Play have cracked, I've replaced them with more pliable and stronger nylon replacements that I printed myself. To compensate against meltdowns I think I'll move up to a more reliable 40mm fan on the heatsink. I'll probably print the below duct in PETG, since it is more heat-resistant than PLA:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1640957
And I'll use the best 40mm fan I can find:
https://www.amazon.com/40x10mm-Bearing-Premium-Cooling-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M
Still haven't figured out a lower fan solution that would work with the above on the Play, yet.
Nope. It was easy to install and its really easy to print from. If your comfy following some simple instructions using the command line you'll be fine. I still slice with Slic3r, I just use the stand alone program then upload the gcode to Octoprint.
By default the Octoprint package from Printrbot expects you to plug in a Ethernet cable so I would recommend getting a Edimax Wireless USB Adapter so the whole thing is actually wireless. The process for setting up this USB adapter with the Rasp Pi and Octoprint is pretty well documented. This way the only two cables you have are one USB for power to the Rasp Pi, and another USB going to the back of the Printrbot.
This is the heater I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/150x150mm-Silicone-Rubber-Heater-Printer/dp/B00I50G42A
Another option I didn't mention is to get a separate, adjustable voltage power supply and feed higher voltage to the bed heater PCB alone via a relay. Even a 24V power supply is probably safe here, though I would encourage you to do the math and use your own judgement to be sure. You could use the stock laptop power supply to run the printer itself.
Put a fan on it... My extruder was getting 'too-hot-to-touch' after 30-45 minutes of printing so I got this fan and zip tied it to the extruder. Now after the same 30-45 minutes of printing, the extruder is 'cool-to-the-touch'!
this one works great for me :
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer-Project/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1448946029&sr=1-1&keywords=power+supply+3d+printer
I've posted this before.. install a heat lamp:
http://www.amazon.com/Phillips-416743-250-Watt-Clear-Flood/dp/B0066L0ZRU/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1414695390&sr=8-14&keywords=heat+lamp
Just put it right on your print bed, it will keep the ABS toasty. You still have to make sure there are no drafts, but its cheaper and easier than trying to build an enclosure.
I don't believe ATX power supplies have to be a mod, do they? The Printrboard has an ATX 6 pin port right on it, so then all you need is the connection on the mainboard connector to make it think there's a board there. That can be a diy project, but you can also buy premade ones like this
Edit: I can spell, really.
I've got a Jr where I've got some intermittent wobble issues. Tried unscrewing my lower stepper motor with some success but I'm fairly certain this should help a lot. I got this guy http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HW7190/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
When in the same predicament as you, I went ahead and just made my own new bed:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/e9mnlufak09vdc9/Bed_Frame_-_Left.stl
https://www.dropbox.com/s/e9mnlufak09vdc9/Bed_Frame_-_Left.stl
https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplate
(1/4" x 13.25" x 6.5")
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045DUX5A
All told, that's ~$50 for pretty much exactly the same thing. All you need to be able to do is drill holes in the corners of the plate.
What is your fan setup for cooling the print as it is printing?
I found I had a lot of problems without having a fan blowing on the print as it's printing. I'm currently printing Hatchbox PLA and Makerbot PLA at 195-200c, 60c bed at 20-30mm/s and don't have any more curling issues since I put a full size blower fan in front of my printer. I also use painters tape and alcohol for bed adhesion.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RL3UJA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504721952&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tower+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=31nkUhBj7fL&ref=plSrch
This is the fan I have setup in front of my printer. I start it once I've got the first layer down.
Don't use safe release. You want plain jane original 2090 blue 3m.
https://smile.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-1-88-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B000A3DQGW/
You might get the safe release to stick with a layer of AquaNet ultra/extra hold no scent
https://smile.amazon.com/Aqua-Net-Unscented-Aerosol-Spray-11/dp/B002K33AFM
Or with some purple no show glue stick
https://smile.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-School-E522/dp/B00178KMUC
But really, you'll want to eventually get a heated bed. Yes, this stuff can work, but you'll spend more on it over time than if you upgraded to a heated bed.
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What filament are you using, brand type and possibly color? Got any pictures? What are your print settings?
I did one like this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I50G42A?pc_redir=1414374074&robot_redir=1
I like it, but I can't recommend it over a "normal" pcb-type bed. The only real advantage it has is that the thermistor is embedded in the heating pad.
You could switch to one of the 12V LED supplies like http://amzn.com/B00D7CWSCG and it wouldn't have all the extra cables.
Get this - http://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Natural-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDDLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421210514&sr=8-1&keywords=pei+sheet
Then get this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cut the sheet to the size of the bed. Put the glue on the sheet with the old windex+credit card deal. Put the sheet on the bed the same way.
Adjust your Z height to account for the thickness difference.
Never ever worry about bed adhesion again, ever.
http://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY
I'm very close to making this work on my Simple Pro:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777MCT94/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Same left-handed design.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HKXKOG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the NC version, which I recommend over NO ones.
I'm currently waiting on my simple kit, but one thing that I have waiting to try to print is a bracket or coupling for a wire shelf. (you can see them on the left in the pic.
Edit: I also have small kids, so I need a pretty much endless supply of door knob covers, outlet covers, cupboard latches and so on, as these things break, get lost, and need to be replaced constantly.
I have (less of a problem now) sticky bearing on my bed. I took the rod out and repacked the bearing with the stuff below.
What shocked me more about this goop was the harmonic I was getting on my Y axis as the belt was rubbing against the plate. I lubed up the side of the bet and that noise/harmonic went away. I had tried everything including constant tensioning of the belt and bolts of the stepper. It was seriously driving me nuts (and the wife) due to the noise. Now whisper quiet..
http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-Performance-Multi-Purpose-Synthetic/dp/B002KCWWFC