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Hair and grooming:

Bunnies need regular brushing to help them with shedding fur. Unlike cats they cannot throw up hairballs and if those do form, they will create a block in their digestive system which is very dangerous. You need to brush several times a week regularly and when shedding heavily every single day.

Sometimes it can be hard to get those silky fine bun hairs. There very best brush I found is this one - it gets all that loose hair out due to the rubber band and might help you a bit https://www.amazon.com/Small-Pet-Select-HairBuster-Comb/dp/B06ZZXF81G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1545077601&sr=8-2&keywords=furbuster. This brush it worth the cost and will last forever and most buns don't hate it and it's certainly cheaper than ER bills.

A lint roller can also help in between brushing like here https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/cpl8ee/our_brioche_is_oddly_obsessed_with_getting_lint/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUdq_UhMQAQ - very informative video on brushing

https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/b3cctl/sesame_getting_brushed_as_requested/ - someone on this forum

So what you have to do is not just bush but have a long relaxing petting session to start with. Start by just petting and getting him relaxed. Handfeed a little favorite green. Once he is relaxed try to brush. As you start, keep one hand firmly on his back slightly pushing him down, that usually makes them feel safe and relaxed. Then brush with firm but gently strokes and always with the direction of the fur growth (never against it) after a few strokes as he feels more relaxed you might be able to take the hand away and just prop him up and keep brushing.

Also try to establish a clear reward mechanism - for example show the bunny two blueberries. Give one right away and the other right after you are done. Over a couple times this will build more positive associations with brushing as a reward will be expected.

Also you can get some silicone brushing gloves that you can start the petting session with before yo move on to the brushing.... it will help him associate the brushing more with being pet, and actually will help you get some hair off before you even use a brush. It's great for just everyday maintenance.

THIS WILL HELP WITH HAIR!

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Litter training:

You have a good set up it seems. I think what you are missing is diligent POSITIVE reinforcement. Try the tips below they work - not like magic but overtime they help.

The key is to reinforce diligently! Bunnies are very food motivated so use that to you advantage... Use positive reinforcement to build a clear association that using the litter box leads to good things. Remind her that a litter box is a good thing by giving a tiny treat every time you see her use it for a while - a treat can be a pellet, a small pice of favorite green, etc. If you are ever there and see her get ready to go (her tail kind of lifts up like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym7-BBY4ep4) scoop her up gently and put in the litter box. If you see her make one poop, as soon as you see it place her right in the box so the rest she does in there. Once she goes give that little treat as a reward. This reinforcement if done consistently over time will really help (though spaying is still a must). Place any poops you find back into her litter box together with the bunny to reinforce and if she pees outside use a napkin to blot it and again place back into the litter box

Lastly be sure you clean the spot she pees outside her litter box each time wit white vinegar to remove the scent of her pee so that she doesn't keep coming back to the spot.

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Bonding:

To bond with them, spend on the floor with them. They don't hate you but the only way they can get to know you and trust you is if your rally get down on the floor at their level. Do this as much as you can - try eating dinner on the floor with them while they eat also.. I find it works really well.

The right approach is simple - get down on the FLOOR at their level! Cuddles and bonding is really best done on the ground at her level where you feel safe to him. Try to dedicate more time to him on the floor at his level - make him feel safe and like your respect what he likes and doesn't.

What works best with bunnies is always always letting them come to you instead of you going to them... silly as it is, that is what makes them feel most secure around anyone who is trying to bond with them. The best way to encourage them to do this is another silly thing - get on the floor. Literally just sprawl out and do your own thing and wait for her to come and explore you (I promise she will if you are patient). On the floor you are on his own level and you feel both safe and curious for them explore.

I would honestly suggest trying to really focus for the next few week on spending lots of time on the floor with him when you are home and let him out to explore so she can choose to come to you himself. Watch TV on the floor and lean against the sofa for comfort or even when you are on your laptop. Basically just make a real effort to spend lots of time with him on the floor for a couple weeks and see if that makes a difference. Always let him come to you on his own terms when he feels safe, don't reach for him if you feel like he is not feeling safe in that moment (kind of anticipate his feelings)... some greens will help make you feel more inviting and attractive, and over time he will learn that humans mean yummies and they are safe and he will pop by for pets from you more often. :)

Watch a couple videos below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3rlWno7B8g - great video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS9HcoC19h4 - another good video

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They don't mean to hurt you if they nip, likely they are communicating and what they might be saying is that they want more attentions. Give it a try...

Cardboard boxes with shredded paper, pieces of cardboard, paper towel rolls, and some hay stuffed inside with a tunnel attached is by far my buns' favorite toys. They love going in and ripping everything apart and finding hay/treats to eat. Bunnies love cardboard boxes in general. They'll rip them apart and move them around, chew on 'em, make hidey holes, climb on them. I'll even cut out some holes on the side of the boxes and stuff cardboard tubes frayed at the ends/stuffed with hay for them to have fun with.

Tunnels rank at number 2 favorite toy. Their favorite is the crinkley cat tunnels which have holes throughout them they can dart out. They like the crinkle noise too.

They love manipulating objects, hard plastic slinkies (not metal ones!) are fun for them ... and to watch, haha. Hard plastic baby rattles, baby keys, etc. Just no gel/soft plastic as it would be easy for them to bite and ingest.
http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Toys_and_Games This has an awesome list of toys and also places to buy bun toys. I've bought cottontail cottages, activity tables, rosewood activity trees, etc--buns love them all! But they are expensive for sure. The activity tables last forever but it would definitely be cheaper to build one !

Oh, also--I would recommend games like the Teach N Treat for mental stimulation as well: http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-Living-World-Teach-Treat/dp/B004HYW9B8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393474030&sr=8-1&keywords=teach+n+treat

There are tons of dog and cat games like that too that buns will love: http://www.amazon.ca/Trixie-4594-Products-Solitaire-White/dp/B0057G1WT0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3EH8O533V5DMS&coliid=I346NPTH7GATHZ

Also they love moving around these treat balls when you stuff em with pellets: http://www.amazon.com/Smarter-Toys-Treat-Inches-Colors/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393474058&sr=8-2&keywords=treat+ball

They love games that have anything to do with eating/end result being eating. :P

http://www.amazon.ca/Kitty-Mansions-Memphis-Tree-Beige/dp/B0043Z0EUE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3EH8O533V5DMS&coliid=IHU58PNBHRME6 CAT TREES! Build your own if you want! Make sure if you buy one to cover any non-safe bun material.

I also got them one of these: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0038B2EKM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00005C5H4/ref=oh_details_o02_s05_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Stack cups! Put treats between them and watch them knock them over and nom the treats. :)

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00000IZQP/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i05?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They also like knocking these off.

http://www.amazon.ca/Super-Pet-Tropical-Fiddle-Stick/dp/B000HHO26E/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3EH8O533V5DMS&coliid=I1Y9U0EEWOMV8N These things!

http://www.amazon.ca/Ware-711-Roller-Assorted-Colors/dp/B001CQFDJY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3EH8O533V5DMS&coliid=I3D5TZDNHU5HM8 This makes eating hay a bit more fun for them. :)

My boys love rolling around and destroying these: http://www.amazon.ca/Peters-Woven-Grass-Play-Ball/dp/B0009YJ3OG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3EH8O533V5DMS&coliid=I2VYO2771IW0LJ

Bunnies really enjoy long-term projects, which is why they like the dig boxes I described in the first paragraph so much. They dig and rearrange the boxes foreeever until I make a new one for them.

Sorry for the TL;DR, but here is some advice that I have read and/or figured out during the last 9 months of owning bonded 1.5 year old English Spots.

I second the adult rabbits needing homes. Our local Animal Shelter charges $5 for the adoption fee and $20 for the spay/neuter fee. However, someone had already adopted the pair of rabbits we got and returned them, so they paid the $20 spay/neuter fee each. We got our awesome companion rabbits for only $5 each. We also put our savings into their cage and some awesome toys. I recommend the Teach N' Treat They absolutely love it! At some point I will take a video of them playing with it and post it on here.

Other things I am not sure if I have seen on this subreddit yet or not are (I am rather new here):

One thing that is also useful is buying a medium sized Sterilite plastic container to hold a few weeks supply of food, and put the bag in the closet well-closed so that the bag of pellets can stay fresh longer (since your not exposing it to air everyday) We have a solo cup with a line that marks 1/8 per rabbit that we leave in the Sterilite container. Also, only buy like a 3 month supply of pellets or else it loses nutrients.

Also, the internet and free shipping is your friend. We use drsfosterandsmith because we buy like 50 lbs of Oxbow Timothy hay at a time and 3- 10 lb bags of rabbit food and hay cubes (they lovvvvvve those too.) Shipping is free because it is over $49. Our rabbits are very picky and waste a lot of hay, but we don't live near a farm to get good hay cheap, so $75 for 50 lbs of hay is a steal for us. I think (though r/rabbits correct me if I am wrong) don't buy more hay that you can use in 9-12 months. Also, store it open so it doesn't get mildewy/moldy.

Also, we use a cube constructed from 5 panels of those wire storage cubes to put their hay in and they grab at it from the sides. We did this because they would urinate and poop all over the hay and not eat it again, plus made cleaning the cage harder. As an added bonus, the cube of hay especially entertains our girl bunny because she is the wire grabber/carpet digger/chewer and she thinks they are little vines that need pruning. This was the 5th attempt at finding something to contain the massive amounts of hay two rabbits can go through in one day, but it has worked the best.

Also we have still not found a good vacuum that picks up hay without clogging, so we do most of that by hand or with a stiff broom, then a once over with a vacuum with all the big stuff picked up. The Versa Stick Vac works well especially to get hair/poops and some smaller bits of hay in the crevice between the wall and carpet. Still not perfect though.

I second others saying vinegar is basically a miracle cleaner because rabbits are sensitive to most chemicals, and the vinegar cleans everything up like magic. We have a low pile rug and a piece of vinyl (keep them from chewing the edges because they will) as the bottom of their cage so they have some traction, but also the vinyl stays a bit cooler, and we put their water dish and hay to make clean up easier. We have an x-pen and some of those wire cube panels around the wall to keep them from chewing the walls.

Rabbits are awesome little furballs, and patience is definitely the number one thing. Just when we think we have fixed something to keep them from chewing/digging/eating something, they prove us wrong and we have to start over again. We are on cage design number 4 but this one is actually working a lot longer/better than the others.

Good luck!

.1. Very young, probably a lionhead. A good rabbit-savvy vet will be able to give you a better age approximation. Check out the wiki for help picking out a good vet.

.2. It's likely that he's not old enough to potty train yet. When he is, check out the wiki for litter training advice. You will need a litter box (a medium cat one works well) and some rabbit-safe litter. I use Oxbow Eco-straw which can be ordered online from Amazon and most pet store websites. The easiest way to litter train a rabbit is to place the litter pan in the location they seem to pee most frequently. Then pick up stray poops/pee and put it in the litterbox and make sure to clean the other areas with white vinegar. If your rabbit chooses a different location to use the toilet, you are best off just moving the litterbox to that location. It's very difficult to get them to change their mind. Neutering will also help with litter habits once he's old enough.

Many rabbits "binky" when they are happy, but some do not. I generally consider a rabbit to be happy if they seem relaxed and unafraid. Some signs of this are exploring, telescoping (standing on hind legs), lying down in a "flopped" position (some rabbits flop all the way onto their sides, others prefer to lie on their bellies with their back legs sticking out). Some rabbits also express happiness by running around very fast.

Best to check out the wiki for instructions on picking up. Generally this should be avoided, but there are plenty of times where it's necessary.

You're unlikely to have much luck with a leash or harness. The rabbits that do well on these are the exception not the rule, but many rabbitors here are successful. I'd probably wait until he reaches adulthood for this though.

There are a lot of options for cages. I recommend this one for a single rabbit. While it's nice that some people can let their rabbits roam free, it's very difficult to 100% rabbit-proof. Do remember that they need plenty of time to run around and exercise. You wouldn't want to spend all day every day in your room and never come out, so make sure your bun gets to leave his. A big cage like this one is just fine though for when you are asleep or at school/work/etc. and can't be around to supervise.

.3. Do your research on the wiki, diet is very important, so is vet. This is my go-to hay supplier. I'd recommend starting with the sampler, then buying the larger boxes to save $$$. Also I see you've taken him outside for some grass. Be very careful to 1. watch out for hawks and other predators, never leave him unattended even for a minute and 2. don't let him eat anything that's been treated with pesticides or other stuff like that, could be very harmful.

Lastly, rabbits are very fragile animals. A lot of people on this sub jump to point out issues they see in pictures or questions because a lot of the time what seems like a little thing can be a very big problem for a rabbit. One good example is overfeeding of sweets. A rabbit can get sick and die from something as simple as eating too much carrot one night. So please, please, please, read up on stuff, do research, and if you aren't sure, ask or check for multiple good sources.