Top products from r/RandomActsOfMechanics
We found 7 product mentions on r/RandomActsOfMechanics. We ranked the 6 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Dorman 42002 Spark Plug Non-Foulers - 18mm Tapered Seat for Select Models, 2 Pack
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Corrosion-resistant designBacked by team of engineers and quality control specialists in the United StatesAvailable in a range of sizesNon-Foulers help protect spark plugs from damageEnsure fit – to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the Amazon ...
2. Accutire MS-4021B Digital Tire Pressure Gauge
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Heavy duty construction and rugged design for long lasting useAngled head and rubber coated handle for easy grippingLarge, easy-to-read LCD displayEquipped with an automatic shut off to prevent deflationAccurate to within 0.5 PSI, reading air pressure from 5-150 PSI in 0.5 pound increments
3. Stanley 55-104 36-inch FatMax Wrecking Bar
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Wrecking bar designed for easier demolition jobsLarger cross-sectional area than a standard bar; U-shaped prying end won't damage surfacesForged high-carbon steel able to withstand 975 foot-pounds of bending momentumForged recesses for better grip; additional slot specifically for pulling nails36 in...
4. Carxtc Stereo Wire Harness Fits Honda Civic (Civic SI) 01 02 03 04 2001 2002 2003 2004 New car Radio Installation
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
Aftermarket Radio / Stereo Installation Wire Harness Honda Civic 2001 2002 2003 2004Connection of Wire is Plug N Play - Plugs directly into vehicle harness (no cutting or splicing)Professional wiring harness (EIA color coded to match the aftermarket wiring)IF YOU CURRENT CAR RADIO STAYS ON AFTER THE...
5. TEKTON 5691 6-Inch 2-Jaw Gear Puller
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Two-jaw design slips into tight spaces to pull gears, pulleys, and flywheels off shaft without damageUniversal 8-position reversible jaws offer inside or outside grip and short, standard, long or extra long reachHigh-strength forged and hardened steel jaw armsCold rolled, acme-threaded steel drive s...
6. Bolt-Grip 1900563 Irwin Tools Impact Performance Series Bolt Grip Deep Well Bolt Extractor, 7/8-Inch, 1/2-Inch Square Drive
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Built for maximum durability and long life with impact driversEngineered with reverse spiral flutes and extended reach to fit over exposed studs and easily grip and remove recessed fastenersHigh carbon steel ensures longer life and greater durabilityUniversal lobular design fits all types of fastene...
What size is the bolt? Have you already given Irwin Bolt-Grip extractors a shot? They work 90+ percent of the time for me when there is room to properly hammer them onto the bolt. Only the ones 19mm (3/4") and smaller are easy to find in your parts store though. You can order larger from the Impact Performance Series, which I've personally yet to try.
From experience these work best early on before you further foul the head trying other methods.
A picture would've been useful in offering advise.
A) 500 a year? That's real low. I've always gone by every 10-15k as the issue with rotations has to do with gradual uneven wear on different corners. I don't think a car that sits that much will need rotations on a time basis - I would consider posting that as separate question because it's an awfully specific scenario.
B) TPMS even today is pretty unreliable so i doubt it was much better in 07. For checking tire pressure just grab one of these off amazon and check the four corners every 2 weeks or so just to keep an eye on it. Maybe a little more often, or at least consistently, as we head into the fall and temperature changes can mess with tire pressure. Also good as you can tell sooner rather than later if you have a leak - i.e., you check one day and 3 corners are at ~30 PSI and one at 18
Accutire MS-4021B Digital Tire Pressure Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00080QHMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a2tWzb8X1ATX5
Have that exact one and it's never let me down.
Does it look like this? http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42002-Spark-Plug-Non-Fouler/dp/B0002JMS6I/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31F4GM8S3WL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1M5AWSS776KA66FJ8FDD
> http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42002-Spark-Plug-Non-Fouler/dp/B0002JMS6I/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31F4GM8S3WL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1M5AWSS776KA66FJ8FDD
I think that's right, yes.
Did you try grinding a slot in them? You can then use a huge ass crowbar to turn it -- wedge the 90-degree end in the slot.
A torch and liquid wrench might help too.
It's definitely possible that the new one fits a bit tighter than the old one. It sounds like you pulled the old one off by hand. If you can get a grip on it, grab tight and rock it back and forth. Try to shimmy it off. If that doesn't work, you can go to nearly any chain auto parts store and grab one of these cheap ugly things out of the bargain bin.
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5691-6-Inch-2-Jaw-Puller/dp/B000NPR2ZS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398130498&sr=8-2&keywords=two+jaw+puller
It probably won't fit too well behind the pulley, but it's cheap enough to grind down the bottom of the jaws until it does.
Looking at the picture again, I see what you mean about the timing cover. Brain fart, sorry, I was thinking about timing belts and their plastic covers. If you can get to them with a chisel and hammer, you can try to rotate the screw counterclockwise by putting the chisel on the side of the screw's head, and tapping it firmly. Sometimes just the shock of doing this gets them to release a lot of their grip.
So, having one of 2 fans not turn on usually isn't an issue. Lots of them are hooked up such that they only turn on when the AC is on, and the car is at a high temp.
The headlight is almost 100% a blown fuse. Check both the underhood and under-dash fuse boxes.
Aftermarket radio is bad juju. Any aftermarket wiring is the first suspect when you've got electrical problems. I'd check the fuses first, and if that's not it, pull the radio and check the wiring. There are LOTS of really shit 'installers' out there for radios.
> The right way to install a radio is to solder all the connections between the aftermarket harness and a harness converter meant for your stock wiring. Solder it on the bench, then just plug it in.
>The Less right but usually okay way to install is to use crimp connectors. Usually good for a few years.
>The wrong way to install is the old twist 'n tape, wire to wire with some electrical tape around them. These almost universally fail over time.
>The other wrong way is to actually cut the stock radio connector off because you're too cheap to buy a wiring adapter. Fuck guys that do this.
As far as why it's overheating? It's a 13 year old car. It's going to take some diagnosing. Could be a headgasket. Could be lots of stuff.