(Part 2) Top products from r/ReefTank

It's not overprice. It's actually a very fairly price and well thought out kit. There's some unnecessary things, and the stock nuvo lights are fine (I actually have them only cause I got a sweet deal), but I would rather get the tank only and different lights. Here's my
attempt to piece that kit together with more ideal parts:

NUVO FUSION 20 BY INNOVATIVE MARINE ($200 anywhere)
This kit includes the TANK WITH THE LIGHTS, which are $400 MSRP. Just get the tank at $200. Use the $200 you would've spent on a better light and fixture:


AI PRIME HD AND MOUNT ($225 for light MSRP, $30 mount, MSRP)
This is a much better light. Stronger. Controllable (able to control all spectrums, set a sunrise sunset schedule, all from a mobile app). The Nuvo lights are just on and off, with no switch. You have to plug them into outlet timers. The AI PRIME is way better, for only a little more.


20 LBS. OF REEF SAVER ROCK ($52 bulk reef supply)
This is actually a good price per pound.


100 ML INSTANT OCEAN BIO-SPIRA (NOT NEEDED)
If you cycle your tank properly, this isn't needed.


4 OZ CLORAM-X AMMONIA REMOVER (NOT NEEDED)
You shouldn't be using a chlorinated water source to begin with, so declorinator only enables bad habits. Get RODI water from a local reef store, or make your own, or at the very worst, use vending machine water.


20 LB. SPECIAL GRADE ARAG-ALIVE! LIVE REEF SAND ($30 amazon)
You definitely want at LEAST special grade sand. Google it. Grain size matters. Too fine, and you'll get a sandstorm when the water is moved.
https://www.amazon.com/CaribSea-Arag-Alive-20-Pound-Special-Bimini/dp/B000EM2BRO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479312554&sr=8-3&keywords=arag+alive


HW-MARINEMIX REEFER SALT MIX (DONT GET THIS SALT)
Instead, get the gold standard:


INSTANT OCEAN REEF CRYSTALS ($50 for enough to make 160 gallons, Drs Foster and Smith, also, FREE BUCKET!)
Make sure you get REEF CRYSTALS if you want corals (it's the orange box/bag), or you can get just the regular INSTANT OCEAN (purple box/bag) if you're doing fish only. This is the most trusted and widely used and available salt. I recommend you use it, so your corals always get the same consistency of nutrients, since this salt is sold everywhere and reliable.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4856


REFRACTOMETER FOR READING SALINITY WITH CALIBRATION FLUID (THESE ARE UNNECESSARY)
Accurate? Yes. Pain in the ass? Also yes. Always having to clean these and calibrate them sucks. Get a standard plastic floaty arrow hydrometer instead.


HYDROMETER ($11 amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-tk504-SeaTest-Hydrometer/dp/B00019JOSO


TUNZE CARE MAGNET NANO - 0220.010 CLEANER MAGNET (UNNECESSARILY OVERPRICED ITEM)
Everyone knows that when it comes to cleaning magnets, Mag Floats are the go to. Sure you can pay more, but you don't always get more.


MAGFLOAT SMALL ($12)
https://www.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Tropical-AGU030SM-Mag-Float-Aquarium/dp/B003WRKVUC


MARINE S PELLET FISH FOOD - HIKARI (THERE ARE BETTER FOODS)
The best widely available pellet fish good is New Life Spectrum.


NEW LIFE SPECTRUM THERA A ($10 most online places)
They have big pellets and small pellets. Make sure you get the small pellets.


HMA-S 50W FINNEX DIGITAL SUBMERSIBLE HEATER (YOU COULD BUY YOUR OWN FOR CHEAPER)


EHEIM JAGER 50W HEATER ($23 amazon)
These are pretty well regarded and reliable heaters. Avoid getting the $15 chinese heaters, for a few bucks more this is a brand you can trust.
https://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003U82YEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313472&sr=8-1&keywords=50+w+heater+jager


HPS-100 FINNEX DIGITAL SUBMERSIBLE (GET ANOTHER FOR CHEAPER)
It's cool that the BRS team thought of this, but you can get your own large cheap heater for mixing water. Since it's a nuvo 20, and water changes would be around 2-5 gallons, a 150 watt or even 200 watt heater could warm up the water to match the tank pretty quickly.


EHEIM JAGER 150 WATT HEATER ($25 Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003M7P9YU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313666&sr=8-3&keywords=150w+heater


HYDOR KORALIA EVOLUTION POWERHEAD 600 ($29 Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Koralia-Evolution-Aquarium-Circulation/dp/B004F461UA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313724&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+koralia+600


So as you can see, you can do it with better parts and remove unnecessary things, but you'd be paying $697 before tax. Personally, I would still rather part it myself, because I know I can find used AI primes with mounts for $150-$200 (check the classifieds of reef forums or you local club). Also, I don't have to buy some of this stuff because I'm already in the fish hobby and have leftover heaters, or have friends who are that can help me get started. But if you're in a hurry and want to start, or this is your first endeavor into fish keeping and have no fish keeping friends, the BRS kit is not bad at all and the convenience is nice.

PROTIP: If you do plan on buying something this big from BRS, i'll let you in on a trick. First, make an account if you don't already have one. Then, add the kit to your cart. Then, leave it there for a few days. You'll get an email reminding you that you have it in your cart, and since it's a large purchase, they'll give you a coupon (i forget the percentage) to encourage you to buy it. Then use the coupon and buy it lol. WINNING!

Hey mate. Congrats on jumping into the hobby. Firstly, have you measured ammonia recently? You want to be certain that your tank has cycled properly before adding livestock, even though you have added some fish already.

Clownfish are a great start and get along with most other fish. Some are more aggressive and territorial than others. Any kind of tang is a bad idea in your tank, as it's just too small. But there are a huge range of other awesome fish you can keep with the same striking appeal! Fish like dwarf angels, numerous wrasses and schooling anthias are good striking fish to take the place of a tang.

I would chuck in some clean up crew now for sure, and provided you have indeed cycled, do a a water change to bring those nitrates down. Don't go crazy off the bat with the CuC however. If not enough food is present for them, some can die from starvation and worsen your water quality from the start, which is no good. I know some websites in the States sell CuC packages with 100 or so snails in them for 40G breeders. Crazy! Pretty soon, it's more than likely you will start to experience a diatom bloom and various types of algae blooms as your system reaches some kind of biological equilibrium. If there's one thing I've learned in my limited time in this hobby, it's that you're maintaining a true ecosystem. It's all about balance and slow changes. If you tip the scales too much, too quickly, it will all fall on its head.

 

There's no great rush to stock your tank (nothing good happens fast in this hobby), as you've still go plenty to learn. So after adding your CuC, you should be researching a stocking list using forums and websites like reef central and liveaquaria to find suitable fish that will get along. Don't forget that there are several great books on everything about this hobby that, IMHO, are worthwhile having on your shelf. Maybe start with a book like this one to figure out who's who in the zoo. I purchased that book and it's been pretty helpful. Things that you should know before buying a fish, for example are: Do they jump? Do they eat coral (aka are they reef safe)? Do they eat prepared foods? Are they gonna eat my shrimp? Is my tank big enough? Catching fish can be pretty difficult, so you want to make sure you don't have to once they are in. ;)

 

Next. Corals. I bought this book to really get my head around what was out there. You'll buy a few corals first off, like leathers, GSP, maybe a hammer or torch or frogspawn. Maybe an acan because you're starting to like LPS. This book (and other online resources) can make it easier to understand what tank conditions these different corals require. Things like lighting, feeding, territory and flow.
With regards to your flow, ideally you will want uneven and random flow throughout your tank without any dead spots. Dead spots are where detritus will accumulate and break down, causing your water quality to deteriorate. The more flow the better! The things that prevent us from having a whirlpool are fish (they'd get tired), sand (don't want it blowing around) and coral (some types dislike too much flow). So find a happy middle ground. For example, in my tank I have one MP10 and a pretty powerful return. This generates a consistent flow pattern throughout the tank that is strong enough to not let detritus accumulate, but varied enough to have places in my tank for corals that love flow (right next to powerhead/return) or prefer it to be more gentle (other end of tank to MP10 is my hammers, duncans and torches).

 

But enough from me. One series of videos that really helped me can be watched by starting here - BRS 52 Weeks of Reefing Build. It's a great series produced by a reef shop called Bulk Reef Supply in the US. If you are from the US, I am very jealous, as they don't ship to Australia. The vids can come off sometimes as being a bit advertise-y, pushing the products they sell. But on the whole they are very well produced and contain a great deal of useful information for you to take away and research. They hit on everything you really need to know in this series.

 

Best of luck to ya mate. This hobby is a great thing to be a part of.

 

Edited for grammar and linkfail.

What other options did you try first? This seems like a drastic option to say the least. GHA takes time to get rid of, but draining the tank to spray with HP shouldn't be the first thing anyone tries.

u/typical_tim check out my post and the comments others wrote for good advice and techniques. I linked the last update because it has the 2 other links in it.

What worked for me was a mixture of things.

1. Limit the light. It wont hurt the coral.
   
   
2. Up your magnesium to around 1500ppm.
   
   
3. Phosgaurd is your best friend!
   
   
4. Remove as much GHA by hand as you can. My clowns are savages so I used an acrylic rof with a designated tooth brush on the end to brush away any GHA I could.
   
   
5. Make sure you have filter floss in place to catch any GHA floating around and change it daily.
   
   
6. High flow (move corals that dont like high flow to lower flow areas) this is key to help move the floating GHA you cant catch into the filter floss. Also GHA doesnt like high flow.
   
   
   It took about 3 months for my tank to look amazing again. I tried everything I could before that and was about to get out of the hobby due to it until someone on r/reeftank made a comment to me saying GHA is part of the hobby so get used to it. It comes and goes and as you mature in the hobby you will learn how to deal with it better and better each time.

If you kept the water that came with the tank: do 20% water changes each day for 5 days, that way the fish will slowly acclimate to clean water, otherwise it might be stressed.

If you already are using clean water cause you threw out the old water:

1. make absolutely enough water to fill up the entire tank.
   
   
2. move the fish to a bucket
   
   
3. drain the tank, throw out or thoroughly rinse the substrate (you want to get all the crap out of it); proceed to cleaning the tank and rocks as you see fit, RO/DI or dechlorinated water only, there can absolutely not be any chlorine in the water (you are going to spend several hours scrubbing that algae off of the tank)
   
   This should clean up the tank in a major way.
   
   Im amazed the fish survived that.
   
   Also please post what other equipment came with the tank.
   
   Dont get discouraged! you are a very nice person for wanting to make a better environment for a helpless animal! :)
   
   best of luck!!!
   
   forgot to mention add an airstone and a heater to the bucket with the fish!
   
   Edit: (This is just a bonus not necessary) after you finish you may want to kickstart the bio filtration, so the fish doesnt get burned by its own ammonia, something like this will help immensely: https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-BIO-Spira-Treatment-Aquariums/dp/B003ODDS5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526508607&sr=8-1&keywords=BIO-SPIRA

When I first started my hobby, I picked up a copy of Saltwater Aquariums for Dummies. I found it to be MUCH more useful than The New Marine Aquarium. (If you're just getting into the hobby). I've always enjoyed The Pocket Expert Guide to Marine Fishes and the Marine Invertebrates as well. With the pocket experts, I find their information to be different from other sources that I use to research a fish before I make a decision to buy or not. A book that I can't seem to finish but always find myself skimming through is the Plankton Culture Manual. It can be a difficult read at times (for me anyways) but it's very helpful when you want to culture something.

I'm really looking for a book to help identify hitchhikers, but I can't seem to find one. Hopefully this thread turns a leaf. I've picked up the Reef Creature Identification books in hopes they would be what I was looking for, but they weren't.

The Nano-Reef Handbook Was a fun read as well. Gives you many ideas for the nano aquarium.

Last but not least, Algae: A problem Solver Guide has really helped when it came to figuring out how to battle algae or which algae would be awesome to have in a tank for decorative purposes.

I've read a lot of great reef keeping books and am glad to help you out. I think it's really pretty naive for lots of reefer to solely rely on forum and youtube video advice for this kind of things. Books are written by professionals in the hobby and in marine biology. Thanks for looking into books!

Here is the best book on coral specifically that i Know: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1890087475/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Go down the page on amazon and look at the other recommended books and just pick some with lots of good reviews and written fairly recently. Like past 15 years max.

This is all good advice.

BRS is your friend right now. You can get man made dry rock, a BRS RODI (and you really should get an RODI, lugging water from the LFS just sucks).

I'm sure they have a refractometer like /u/fp4 linked. I went best rather than better and got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-MA887-Refractometer-Temperature-Compensation/product-reviews/B007Z4ITWU though you can find it cheaper that was just the first google result. It's a worthwhile upgrade. It's just always right. Always.

And Sump vs HOB is a no brainer, sump. every time.

So I'm thinking a complete start over would probably be the best, there's just so much algae, and crud in the tank that I think I'd never get it all. O_o. So here's what I'm thinking, does it seem like a good plan of action?

I haven't done anything to the water that was in the tank, and since freaking the fish out would be bad, I was thinking that I could get a 5 gallon bucket andpull out enough of the old water to put my clownfish in, then add an air stone and a heater.

Then I'd head over to the fish store and buy 100 gallons of water (they have the gear to make saltwater, I don't) and pull everything out of the tank. As suggested in another post, I figure I'll dip the reef rock in muriatic acid bleach to clean them, and then put them in some saltwater with no light for a month or so. I will also buy a couple of new pieces of live rock to help seed the clean dry rock.

Then I'd scrub the tank clean, using a scrub brush, and some clean (not tap) water, clean up the filter (and change the filter inserts), scrub the skimmer and heater and current makers, then add the new water, some substrate, and the stuff that you linked to.

Then after the month, pull my reef rocks out of the dark bucket, and reintroduce them to the aquarium. I figure by then my ecosystem would be pretty prime to reintroduce the rock.

Does this seem like a good plan? Any things you'd change about it? I really wanna get this right. My clownfish needs his home cleaned up. Plus I really want a beautiful reef tank.

EDIT Decided against using acid to kill the rocks, but will use bleach. I've read that a 10:1 ratio is good for a few days, will probably soak in bleach water for 3 days, then pull rock out, refresh the bleach water, then soak again for 3 days, then let bake in the heat of the sun for a week to dry it out, then put it in salt water with Bio-Spira to get it back to living rock.

The sand is This stuff I love this sand. It is fine but it seems to be a haven for little bugs, copepods and other live. The snails love it as well!

• The D120 is the way to go for lighting. You'll probably run it at 30-50% depending on what corals you put in.
  
  
• The 200g box of Reef Crystals is certainly the most economic way to prepare water. It's about a year and a half's supply for a 10g in four separate bags. If you're making your own water, you'll want a RODI filter too, BRS or Spectrapure sells the 4 stage which is plenty. I should note--for a 10g, it's probably cheaper to just buy prepared water from a LFS.
  
  
• A refractometer costs only a little bit more than a hydrometer but is significantly more reliable since it can compensate for temperature.
  
  
• You can typically save money if you buy your live/dry rock at a LFS instead of online--mixing the two will save you more money! You'll also get to pick the pieces.
  
  
• Buy this heater.

If you want to keep it simple, you could run a fluval Evo 13.5 gallon.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-10531A1-SEA-Aquarium-13-5/dp/B01M2WI6PT

It includes a light that will grow most soft corals and a few easy lps. Comes with a return pump and some filter media.

That would be about $160

You should easily be able to find about 15 lbs of base rock or cured live rock for a decent price. $50

If you want substrate, Caribsea fiji pink will work. A 20lb bag is dirt cheap on Amazon. 20


Here's a Reef 2 Reef thread with people showing off their Evo 13.5s to give you an idea of what they look like. There are also some fancier ones that I've seen on instragram that will blow your mind.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/show-your-fluval-evo-13-5.292874/

Heater. 20

https://www.amazon.com/CaribSea-Arag-Alive-20-Pound-Fiji-Pink/dp/B00025YVGC


That puts you at around $230. Clowns are about $20 at your lfs, so let's say $40

$290 total. You can do it for cheaper or much much more if you choose. I used to own this tank and I loved it. You can modify it quite a bit if you want. I added a protein skimmer, media basket, media filter, and a new light to mine.

GFO is the best long term solution, but Phosguard is cheap and works well if replaced when exhausted.

A good skimmer is important in the process too.

The API phosphate test kit isn't sensitive to the low levels you would test in a for in a reef so use just about any other test.

Coralline seems to grow better under blue light, so give it plenty of actinic light.

Flow might be the problem, in so far as it's directed towards one side, and the other might not be getting enough. I did remove approximately half of what is in there currently to try to improve the flow, but it may be my design more than any blockage.

The light is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GFTK7CQ

I can't really say if it's better or worse than any other light, since it's the only one I've owned. For the price point though, I'm very happy with it. It does have the digital timer/remote with it. In the pictures I posted, I had the whites up to 100%, and the blues at 0%. I'll post more pictures of different light settings when I get home if you'd like.

I'd highly recommend you read this book before you commit to doing/buying anything. It is by no means inclusive but will give you a feel for how the whole system should or will work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1890087521

Once you've read that, I'd recommend reading the following article from Reef Keeping ezine. This will save you time and money on junk or unnecessary supplements.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/

Edit: spelling.

Current USA Orbit Marine Aquarium LED Light, 48 to 60-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GFTSV24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YNtVAbTYG985S

Current USA Orbit Marine Aquarium LED Light, 24 to 36-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GFTNG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0OtVAb5YHYNSG

What size tank do you have? These plus a T5 fixture and your golden. By them selves these can sustain corals and anemones but if you want them to grow you need to add a T5. I have used these alone and with a T5 and the tank with t5 has better growth for sure.

https://www.amazon.com/CaribSea-Arag-Alive-20-Pound-Fiji-Pink/dp/B00025YVGC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=297471WWOE9MK&keywords=aquarium+sand+saltwater&qid=1550532526&s=gateway&sprefix=aquarium+sand&sr=8-2

I had Fiji pink in my tanks and had good luck with it

I’m glass bottom now tho 😎

A Current USA Orbit Marine may be okay for a small, shallow tank. Its PAR is enough for low light level corals if placed 6" from the light. PAR data for their lights is here if you're interested.

EDIT: Make sure it would fit length-wise, or you can mod it to fit.

Absolutely love these two pocket ID guides personally

https://www.amazon.com/PocketExpert-Guide-Marine-Fishes-Essential/dp/1890087386

https://www.amazon.com/PocketExpert-Guide-Marine-Invertebrates-Essential/dp/1890087661

Also you can subscribe them to Reef Hobbyist Magazine for free

http://www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com/

OK, I'll increase the water changes. Just have been going to my LFS instead of snagging an RO/DI system. Plus 5 gallons of saltwater runs me $3 total.


Think this will be suitable for a biocube? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2DBFX4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_AF2WBb63MWA0X


Is there a specific filter pad or sponge that you would recommend?

Marineland portrait: 52$ https://www.walmart.com/ip/Marineland-5-Gallon-Portrait-Glass-LED-Aquarium-Kit/40231748

5lbs Marco Rock from a LFS: 15$

Filter floss: 13.99 https://www.amazon.com/inTank-Aquarium-Pond-Value-600-square-inches/dp/B00B50UPE0

Live Sand: 12.54 https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Ocean-Bio-Activ-Aragonite-Aquarium/dp/B0018CLX9Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=live+sand+for+saltwater+aquarium&qid=1564404014&s=gateway&sprefix=Live+sand&sr=8-3

5 gallons RO water from LFS: 7$

Aaaand there you go. Just a little under a hundred. It won't be optimal, but it's something. However, like everyone said, you're better off waiting and saving up money so you can start up proper.

I have a few books, but I primarily use them as extra reading as opposed to using them as full fledged knowledge.

these are good to have as reference guides: http://www.amazon.com/PocketExpert-Guide-Marine-Fishes-Essential-/dp/1890087386/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420253578&sr=8-1&keywords=guide+to+marine+fish

as well as the invertebrate one.

While there are screw in bulbs, they are meant for nano tanks mostly. With that budget have you considered T5 and cheap LED lights? I’d recommend the Current USA with four of these T5 HO fixtures

With these lights you’ll for sure grow any coral you want easily. You can put the T5 on these wifi controlled power strips so you can set them on timers and the LED has built in programming.

I have One of these LED lights over my fuge and I get green hair algae growing like crazy along with my chaeto, I throw some in my display for my tang and fox face every time I clean it out, they think it's a treat.

products i love:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Z4ITWU/ref=sxr_rr_xsim1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-HI-755-Colorimeter/dp/B005FH2O6G/ref=pd_sim_328_91?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8MKR3X0JC3JK0MJA969X

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Sea-Reef-Foundation-Test/dp/B004FUJ5NE/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1482730008&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=red+sea+test+kit

I picked up this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2DBFX4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hard to say how well it works, but I do pull out a container of skim muck about once a day, and it's pretty dark/grimy, so it's clearly working to some degree.

I'm also not using it on a biocube, just a standard 30 gallon.

I was having sillicate based issues that looked a lot like yours. Put some of this stuff and it cleared up within a few days. My tank is only 90g and I don't think I had as much algae as you, but I would definitely give it a shot.

It works fine. Trust me. I also proof my outdoor plants with this light before I move them outside.

I looked up my order on amazon, this is what I picked up. Not sure if it is the same one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNWK2XO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had great results using and piece of shrimp and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ODDS5E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to cycle my tank when I started it back up.

I have one of the cheaper $30~ Amazon Refractometer and have had no issues with it. I test my display and the new water to make sure they match beforehand.

If want to spend the money for a good salinity checker, go digital and grab one of these instead:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z4ITWU

akish24 is right. Corals need very stable conditions and things change fast in a small volume of water. You might like to start here: https://www.amazon.com/New-Marine-Aquarium-Michael-Paletta/dp/1890087521

If you can afford it, go for a vortech MP-10 or a maxspec grye. If you want to save some money, buy this one. Down the road if you want more flow you could buy another RW-4. I'd rather have two rw4s over one rw8.

Jebao RW-4 Wavemaker with Contorller, 130-1000 GPH
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVI3BLO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_0Xj9ub11FDRDT

Whoops! This is the Python (25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AZzXCbHD07BBY)

Cool! Where does the purified water then go? Into a 5 gallon bucket or something?

Make yourself a temp controller with an stc 1000 or ranco. Cheap and effective. I used a lab thermometer to calibrate mine. Which was only off by 1 degree f when I received it. They are quite accurate and reliable for the price. I use the stc1000 in both mine and my girlfriend's tanks. They can be set to keep the tank plus/minus .3 degrees c. I also have 2 heaters. Each capable of heating the tank alone for redundancy. The best part is that you don't have to worry about the heaters getting stuck on and making fish soup, since the controller will turn them off when high setpoint is reached. I set the heaters internal thermostat to just above what I set the controller for, that way if it failed, the heaters thermostat would be a backup. Doing it this way saves a lot of stress on the heaters thermostat because it is always "on" not constantly changing, wearing it out, since they are made of bending metal.

You could even use the cooling outlet to turn on a light or sound device or a fan across the top of the tank as a high temp warning in the summers.

Stc1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXPE8U6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_BjT9wbN9K5E8S

If you aren't the diy electrical type. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011296704/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YkT9wb8AS0GKX

I'm kind of limited to what I can do. It's a pretty small tank with one of those built-in in-tank filter systems, and I have one small part dedicated to macroalgae, as well as macroalgae growing in the main tank.

I read you can help fix the problem by having a protein reactor? Im thinking about getting This HOB protien skimmer.

​

Honestly, I wouldn't get this tank again 4/10 would not recommend. The light it came with was awful, had to buy a new one, the pumps are always loud, its almost impossible to work in the back area to get anything working, theres no room for anything at all. And I have to add nearly a gallon of water a day due to evaporation.

Sure! The prices are a bit different as I was timing what I bought when the prices were low or refurbs.

Tank

Media basket(absolute must have)

Auto top off

Powerhead

Heater

Temp Controller, Fan, and Gooseneck

Light, and Mount

Upgraded return pump

Protein Skimmer ~ $65

Lighting ~$62

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I have experience with the protein skimmer. It work's great and like I mentioned earlier, you'd need to get two of the lighting fixtures to really cover the length of the tank and keep SPS. One will do for soft coral and some LPS.

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You can skimp on lighting but for the most part you'd only be able to keep softy corals and it won't look as great when compared to the higher end lighting.

At the end of the day you want your corals to be able to get the PAR they need.

You basically just don't wanna provide so much light that it contributes to much to algae growth or a lighting set up that puts out a lot of heat and causes temperature swings.

NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light with Extendable Brackets, White and Blue LEDs, 6W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VigeBb3N75SQV

I use this for some fish, a red algae plant and a star Polyp. Blue light mode is nice in the evening if you wanna look at your tank but not have lights going full blast. Also LED so low energy cost.

I got the Current USA Orbit Marine Aquarium LED Light and love it..


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GFTK7CQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I mean its not a pendant but it's way cheaper than other stuff so

Sure! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191EWII2

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "API"



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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

I have a 30 gallon mixing jug in my closet which is in my kitchen. I would suggest looking for closets/end of hallways/corners where you can keep a mixing station that's out of sight. I just use a pump to get me about 5m across the kitchen. You'll need a more powerful pump to get you your 15m but that'll take some experimentation. To take water out I just use a Python and there are extensions available.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GNWK2XO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485639834&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=taotronics+led+grow+light&dpPl=1&dpID=41RnUHYwATL&ref=plSrch

Is this the one you're talking about? Seems a little low wattage wise.

Macro Aqua M-50 Mini Hang-on External Protein Skimmer

I use this protein skimmer for my 10 gallon nano (but it ca work for up to 60 gallons), it's cheap and it's been working fine for over a year now, removes around a cup of skimmate (gross water) a day.

I got then on amazon for about $10. Here is the link:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DXPRTHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1421263500&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I use aiptasia-x and they work for me.

How do you rinse live sand? Won't rinsing it basically kill it?

I have about 60 lbs of this and I just ordered 80 more pounds: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00025YVGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I buy pre-mixed saltwater from my LFS, but I will make sure the temp is right before adding the fish.

I would start off by adding more biological filtration. The most common form of bio filtration is live rock (or dry rock that turns live over time). Its really important to have this biological filtration in some form. Companies make products that are made for this kind of situation, but it may be cheaper just to buy more rock (dry rock should be $1-3 per pound). Most people recommend 1lb per gallon of live, or half for dry.

As for when to add livestock, to really know you need to test your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Use a kit like this (this is as cheap as i'd recommend for a test kit, others are just to unreliable) Read up on the nitrification process and the aquarium cycle process. Normally this takes anywhere from 2-4 weeks, but my tank cycled in a 8 days, and my coworkers tank to 40 days. It varies GREATLY. If you refuse to test water, i wouldn't add anything till a month in. (also, if you cant test water, i really recommend a different hobby as without testing you will have a VERY difficult time knowing whats wrong in your tank)

I'm testing that water right now.
Test kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EUE808/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do you suggest a different one?

Anyone use the inkbird?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011296704/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41vCaa1QSWL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=0SPCEYRY1FCM9ZZS20QN

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_V5VHAbM0ZE8R3

I just put a Jebao RW-4 in my 20 long and its making a ton of turbulence. It has more power and settings than an VorTech MP10 and they cost less than $60!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255NXC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got these just the other day. I diddn't need ten but you get them for less than a dollar a piece. I dont have a saltwater tank so im not sure what you are looking for, I use these for measuring and dosing fertilizers

Wanted to do the 75W but they don't have any atm. How about a 50W? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U82YEY/ref=twister_B00TQZ7G7K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Or should I wait and go with the 75W?

I am more worried about maybe needing a fan? right now I only have the "moon lights" on and it is running at 80.2-80.4F.

I know BRS has live rock but I’m worried with how I’d set up my aquascape if I can’t pick out the pieces. Do I need a 20 pound or 10 pound bag of sand because I’m looking at the live sand for my 10 gallon.

Are you using bioballs or live rock in the second chamber?

Most of the reading I've done is very anit-bio balls as they are a poor media for filtration.

Now, this might not apply to you because I'm trying to rehab a tank that had 2 yrs of neglect. But I "upgraded" the filtration and here's my setup:

1st chamber:
Biocube Skimmer

2nd Chamber:
Media Cartridge

Cartridge from bottom to top slots:


Purigen


Matrix in a bag


sponge


filter floss

3rd chamber:

empty


I'm considering upgrading the powerhead to increase the gph hitting the filtration and adding a splitter to the nozzle so I can have two directions of outflow in order to reduce dead zones in the tank.