Top products from r/Reprap
We found 29 product mentions on r/Reprap. We ranked the 95 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 4
IN-DOOR USE ONLY!High quality Switch Power Supply Widely used in Industrial automation, LED display, communications, etc.You can choose the input voltage (110V/240V) by switch.Smart device surge protection for Shortage Protection, Overload Protection, Over Voltage Protection
2. HT-225D Full Cycle Ratchet Crimping Tool with interchangeable die set HT-225D
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
3. uxcell Solid State Relay + Heat Sink SSR-25 DA 25A 3-32V DC / 24-380V AC
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
Brand: Uxcell; Model: SSR-25 DAInput Voltage: 3-32V DC; Output Voltage: 24-380V AC; Max Load Current: 25AMaterial: Aluminum, Electric Parts; Net Weight: 199gWidely used in many automatic control systemsPackage: 1 x Solid State Relay(within heat sink and thermal conductivity silicone grease)
4. GLE2016 Single Phase Solid State Relay DC-DC SSR-40DD 40A DC3-32V DC5-60V
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
5. Noctua NF-A4x10 5V, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin, 5V Version (40x10mm, Brown)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Premium quiet fan, 40x40x10 mm, 5V, 3-pin Molex, 4500 RPM, 17.9 dB(A), >150,000 h MTTFAward-winning 40x10mm A-series fan with Flow Acceleration Channels and Advanced Acoustic Optimisation frame for superior quiet cooling performanceIdeal replacement for noisy or broken 5V 4cm fans in 3D printers, DV...
6. OSOYOO 3D Printer Kit with RAMPS 1.4 Controller + Mega 2560 board + 5pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink + LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller with Adapter For Arduino RepRap
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
3D printer Kit guide: 3D printer Kit guide: http://osoyoo.com/driver/3D%20printer%20instructions.pdf3D Printer Controller RAMPS 1.4 interfaces an Arduino Mega2560 board. The modular design includes plug in stepper drivers and extruder control electronics on an Arduino-compatible MEGA shield for easy...
7. Symtec Black Handlebar Warmer Kit with Round Rocker Switch for ATV Snowmobile
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
8. uxcell Metric Thickness Feeler Gage Gauge (0.02-1.00mm)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
9. Techflex 1/8" Expandable Sleeving 25 ft. Neon Blue
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
10. Aokin 3D Printer Parts and Accessories, 1pcs 3D Printer Stepper Motor Parallel Module with 100mm Cables for Double Z Axis Dual Z Stepping Motors Reprap Prusa Lerdge 3D Printer Board
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Module Size: 27mm/1.06in x 15mm/0.59in; Cable Length: 100mm/3.94in; Weight: 5gPackage Included: 1pcs stepper motor parallel modules with 1pcs 100mm cables, easy to connect.Application: special design for stepper motor-side parallel, a driver drives two motors, put them in-line (series) with the moto...
11. LEDwholesalers 16.4 Feet (5 Meter) Flexible LED Light Strip with 300xSMD3528 and Adhesive Back, 12 Volt, Warm White 3100K, 2026WW-31K
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Efficient LED strip with 300xSMD3528 LEDsCuttable every 3 LEDs, approx. every 2", at designated cut marksCut sections may be linked via optional quick conectors or directly soldering wiresDimmable with optional compatible dimmable transformer and wall dimmer switch or PWM dimmersEco-friendly - uses ...
12. Engineers Precision Crimping Pliers Pa-09
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Brand New Product
13. Quartet Cork Tiles, Cork Board, 12" x 12", Corkboard, Wall Bulletin Boards, Natural, 4 Pack (102)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Design your own bulletin board, any size or any shape, or cover a whole wall with self stick cork panelsUse push pins or tacks to secure documents and photos in the cork; Each tile is 12”w x 12”hProvides the added benefit of noise absorption in loud areas3/16" thick cork surface is self healing ...
14. PlayStation Eye
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Free EyeCreate download editing software, which allows users to save, edit and add cool visual effects to photos, video and audio clipsCamera and audio reception making it an integral part of the PlayStation Move motion control systemA sophisticated microphone with the ability to reduce background n...
15. Catskill Craftsmen 12-Inch Tempered Glass Cutting Board with Padded Feet
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
Dimensions: 12-Inches Wide by 8-Inches Deep by 1/4-Inches ThickDishwasher SafeMicrowave SafeNon-Slip Rubber FeetNon-absorbent, non-porous
16. StarTech.com 8in ATX12V 4 Pin P4 CPU Power Extension Cable - M/F - Power extension cable - 4 pin ATX12V (M) to 4 pin ATX12V (F) - 7.9 in - ATXP4EXT
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Extend the reach of your ATX12V power supply CPU power connector by 8inATX12V 4 Pin P4 CPU Power Extension CableM/FATX12V 4 Pin P4 CPU Power Extension CableEasy to use and install
17. Silverline Tools - Metric Dial Indicator - 0 - 10mm
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
High precision 50 mm dial indicator Rotating bezel with lock for zero setting Range 0 - 10 mm, graduation 0.01 mm
18. Weller SP40LK 40 Watt Soldering Iron Kit
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Lightweight pencil iron develops 900 degrees FStainless steel barrel and heat and impact resistant handleIndicator light allows you to instantly see that the iron is on
19. OEMTOOLS 25025 26 Blade Master Feeler Gauge
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
26 Hardened, Tempered Steel BladesMeasures: 0.0015 Inch (0.038 mm) to 0.025 Inch (0.635 mm)Chrome Plated Main Shaft for Easy Clean Up and Professional LookEach Blade is Laser Etched with Inches and MillimetersBlade Protector has Thumb Notch to Aid in Removal of Blades
20. W S Deans Company Connector: Micro 4R 4 Pin, Black, WSD1241
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Deans 1241 - Micro 4B PlugFeatures:Part number(s) included (in factory packaging): 1241Includes: (1) Micro 4B Plug with Mating Plug (8) Sections of Shrink TubingSpecs: Micro Plug; Mating Plug, Length: .47" (12mm) Including Pins .69" (17.5mm) Including Pins, Width: .43" (11mm) .43" (11mm), Thickness:...
As a fellow Mac user, who also has a prusa mendel; I would highly recommend you use OctoPrint + a Raspberry Pi 3. This may not be a just starting out configuration but it makes life a lot easier in controlling the printer.
I use Slic3r for Mac configured to talk to the OctoPrint server through an API call, and I can send gcode to my printer across the network from the Slic3r application. With the RPi camera installed I can keep an eye on my prints without having to be in the same room.
Also you may be happier with:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This PSU is a bit cheaper than your standard ATX PSU, it may be a good choice if you're looking to try this hobby out as cheaply as possible. It is a more difficult way of going because you will need to print something like:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:199089
To keep live 120VAC from being exposed on your bench.
Path of least resistance to getting started:
Slic3r > Repetier Host or PronterFace or Cura > Printer
The best way I've found (easiest):
Slic3r > OctoPrint
Seeing as I have the same printer and host OS configuration, feel free to DM me and I'll answer any questions you may have.
I highly recommend Nophead's kit. It's fantastic--the quality of printed parts is excellent, the power supply and j-head are quality, and the Dibond helps to prevent resonances, making the printer quieter than ones built from plywood.
Don't over-tighten the nyloc nuts--it's very easy to do, and doing so will bend the Dibond slightly or crack the plastic parts.
Follow the directions very carefully. Everything is explicit in the instructions, but there aren't as many pictures/videos as I needed, and I ended up doing 2 steps incorrectly as a result. Nophead sells individual replacement parts, though, and everything he sells is quality and has a low profit margin. If you're not in the UK, though, shipping can get expensive.
You're going to need to strip very small gauge wire (for the ribbon cable, among others). Here's a great tip I learned to strip small gauge wire without breaking the wire:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yM4JsxirXPg
As others have stated, get a caliper. Also I find that a dial gauge is useful in leveling the bed--one like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-196521-Metric-Dial-Indicator/dp/B000LFYK0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396249675&sr=8-1&keywords=dial+gauge
Basically, after you get your first print, print up something like this:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:92852
Change a setting in your firmware to allow the z-axis to go below '0', and attach the dial holder to your x-carriage instead of your extruder. This will allow you to get a very level bed. Bed leveling is everything--it will help adhesion and make your prints much more reliable.
After you've got your bed level, print replacement parts from ABS for your extruder, especially the gears and extruder block. I had problems at one point with a jammed extruder, and the resulting stresses cracked my extruder block. I had a PLA extruder block replacement, but the way the extruder mounts to the block on the Mendel90 (directly with screws, rather than using an aluminum mounting plate on the j-head's groove mount) meant that it got soft when the extruder got up to temperature, causing the tip of the extruder to wobble and the prints to go badly. Printing an ABS extruder block solved my problems. It's nice to have a backup so you don't need to rely on /r/reprappif or on friends.
You won't go wrong with Nophead's kit. I've seen many kits, and helped many friends build their printers at my local hackspace. Nophead's kit is the nicest I've found. The only other printer in the same league is the Ultimaker, and it's quite a bit more expensive, especially if you want the one with the heated bed.
Once you've got some experience under your belt, order an extra Nema17 motor, and get an extra D-Sub connector and custom PCB from Nophead, and purchase an E3D hot end. Build a 2nd extruder--the Mendel90 allows you to replace the extruder by unscrewing only 2 wingnuts (no tools necessary!). The E3D hot end can print nylon and other hot materials. It's a bit longer than the J-head, so you'll lose some space on the z-axis. But it's a fantastic all-metal hot end.
An easy option is to go to amazon.com and get this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TYHZ0A/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00
It's 30 bucks, has 2 heat pads, is all pre-wired, pre-stripped, glue backed, and has free shipping if you've got prime. I use it on EasyMaker( my own 3d printer design ) with a 1 foot square 1/8" thick piece of Aluminum from onlinemetals. It heats to 60C no problem. Something smaller -- say the size of a Prusa bed -- should easily heat to 110. Mark Gantor's lab ( aka the UW Seattle 3d printer lab/research group ) has used it to heat a prusa-sized bed to 110. EasyMaker uses a square foot sized bed, which is HUGE compared to other designs -- so don't let my 60C scare you. With 1 square foot of surface area, no existing heater can get to 110C.
you get 2 heat pads -- if you've got a really small bed -- say a makerbot cupcake or other mini-sized device, you could use just one. You can also use the switch if you like -- but I just wired directly to the RAMPS board. Super-easy. Done in 5 minutes.
Also -- I've found printing ABS on 60C Aluminum that has blue tape on top works great -- no curl, and safe to touch. I even printed a large, thin, flat thing using ABS -- no problem, everything stuck great, and nothing curled. Though, I normally print with PLA, and designed the machine around PLA, 60C is fine for ABS if you use blue tape instead of kapton( from my experience ).
Hope that helps!
The safest thing is a properly-sized resistor on the 5V rail. If you don't do that, the PSU may appear to run fine without it initially and then randomly shut down, reset, etc., potentially ruining prints. You need to keep drawing 1-2 amps at 5V to keep things happy. If you really want ideas for things to put on 5V that are actually useful:
Source: Have repurposed several AT and ATX PSUs for bench supplies and reprap power supplies.
Great. I'll confirm with ryan turner what comes out of the box and go for a 24v. I really like your lighting, did you use something like this
Measure the center-to-center spacing of the wire housings. If they are 2.54mm (.1") they are the JST XHP series as the other commenters pointed out out. Usually though, stepper connectors are the JST PH series and spaced 2mm center-to-center. These definitely look different though... is that a NEMA 17 or a NEMA14? Anyways if it's the more standard connection, it's a JST PHR-6 connector. These are the crimp pins that mate to the PHR-6. There are other ones for thinner wires, but you will want these for steppers. If it is instead what the other commenters have pointed out, you will want these connectors with these crimp pins. If you don't already have a crimp tool for thinner wires, I recommend these from experience.
EDIT- just want to add that if you don't feel you have a reliable way to measure the center-to-center spacing (like using calipers), you can always hold up a connector for an Arduino or similar, or an Arduino itself, and eyeball the pin spacing.
You can hook it up as they recommend for the 24v configuration but that just provides the same amount of power at a different voltage so that doesn't help.
If you hook up 24v to the 12v terminals, you will quadruple the power and double the current.
Ohm's law, 12V=(1.2ohm)(10A) or 24v=(1.2ohm)(20A)
You would probably need a 600W 24v power supply and all of your wiring needs to be 10awg at least.
Hook it up like this diagram shows, except your bed power will connect to the 24v psu instead of the 12v.
https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/assets/25/7d/4a/1d/63/D-Bot_Electrical_Diagram.pdf
Here's the relay used, be sure to heatsink it
http://www.amazon.com/Single-Phase-SSR-40DD-DC3-32V-DC5-60V/dp/B012SW6TB6/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1444750548&sr=1-6&keywords=solid+state+relay+dc+-ac
If you have Amazon available, this is by far the best price on the full setup (plus LCD and SD card slot)
www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ZITDwb43HXT2
I've bought about 5 of them, and these guys may actually have some quality control.
I really like the Molex SL series, it's what we use at the company I work for. It's also already pretty common on 3D printers (Off the top of my head I know RAMBO boards already use it) and they are really quality.
You can have board to cable connections, cable to cable connections, panel mount connections, whatever you want.
Here's their 'roadmap' which I guess has some info, but if you want to find them on digikey this has everything you need.
Also for crimpers you can just get a generic molex crimper
Granted depends on if you are working with 12 volt or 24 volts. Any reason why you want to go that way vs say a 12 volt 30 amp supply? like https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG
just wondering why you are looking at an 80 dollar power supply.
> y machine has two motors. Would I just splice them t
Stepper Motor Parallel Module
https://www.amazon.com/Aokin-Printer-Accessories-Parallel-Stepping/dp/B07Y42B87X/
You'll save $2-3 by ordering from Aliexpress if you choose free shipping, but you wont get it until January.
About Calibrating a Delta, I'm using this wizard to calibrate mine and I've got to a point where I can't seem to get better than [-0.1:0.1] offset on all 7 probe points. I'm using 6 factor and [a gauge like this](uxcell Metric Thickness Feeler Gage Gauge (0.02-1.00mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052IRYVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_WJL7ivK8ztXUi) using the 0.1 mm sheet to measure the height between the nozzle and the bed.
How do I know when to stop?
I have build a C-Bot and am currently using a Fotek 40A SSR you can get off of amazon. This was the listing recommended by the creator of the C-bot in his rework design btw. I have it attached to the aluminum extrusions directly with some heatsink compound between them and it barely gets warm during operation.
Ok so the heat bed is here:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/200X200mm-400W-12V-w-NTC-100K-Thermistor-Keenovo-Silicone-Heater-3D-Printer-Heater-Heatbed-First-Grade/210086_32230108542.html
and the relay is here:
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Solid-State-SSR-25-24-380V/dp/B0087ZTN08/
(thanks to BillDaCat)
Where is the metal brace thingy? (or is that part of your printer? Or the fiberglass part?)
I just built my i2 I've had laying around and ordered some cheap electronics kit off amazon, This one. I'm using a 12v 30 power supply off amazon as well. I configure marlin and after messing with the endstops finally I get the motors to move. next onto the thermistors. both the bed and the extruder are working and reading 25c at room temp as long as the 12v power supply is turned off. as soon as I turn it on the extruder goes to 0c and the bed remains at 25c. I tested the thermistor and im getting ~99-98k ohms at around 25c room temp. I also went into marlin and changed the temp pins for the extruder from t0 to t2 in the ramps_pin.h script. same result.
Do I have a bad ramps/Mega? or has anyone seen this problem before? am I missing somthing in the firmware that might fix this or should I buy a less cheap ramps and mega?
Thanks
Molex connectors on the wiring is the first thing to make sure. Rewire the steppers connector. You really need to make certain you have a proper crimper tool for them otherwise you will constantly be battling this type of problem. This one works good. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLN93S/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks, I've got the Einsy rambo cloned from the mk3 as is most of the parts i've got, strangely this board takes 24v but requires 5v fans (linked up in my post). I'll look into the line regulator too to learn bout em
They've actually got [5v version noctua fans now] (https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA) but I decided to go for a sunon from digikey that had better air pressure
Micro Deans are what I use on my hotend. I have two 4pin connector running my heater cartridge , thermistor, fan, and LED ring.
http://www.amazon.com/Deans-Micro-Pin-Connector-Black/dp/B000BOXMDW
> a quarter inch wide on an SMT pad.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40LK-Watt-Soldering-Iron/dp/B000HE5BZS
I think it was pretty close. Whatever the case, it seems that I choose poorly. Hopefully I can still return it as defective or something.
I was warned via youtube tutorials to avoid the fixed-wattage irons, and I think I now understand why - lesson well learned.
Amazon has techflex flexo tubing in different colors.
SSR or Solid State Relay. It's a switch to turn line voltage power on and off using low voltage (3-32VDC).
Here is one on Amazon with a heatsink.
It isn't huge, so I'd say go for it.
360w Here is the PSU that I have.
I use these
I zero my extruder and move it to the corners. At each corner, I manually adjust the bed until the correct feeler gauge barely fits. Takes less than 5 minutes about once a month.
http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-sae-metric-feeler-gauge-32214.html
http://www.amazon.com/25025-26-Blade-Master-Feeler-Gauge/dp/B000BYGIR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409135061&sr=8-1&keywords=feeler+gauge
I used one of these instead of cutting up the cables in case I ever wanted to re-use the ATX supply with a computer in the future: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-8-Inch-ATX12V-Extension-ATXP4EXT/dp/B000O7WFHA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426279478&sr=1-2&keywords=atx+4+pin
Check this out: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pyrex-11-x-14-Glass-Cutting-Board/17479051
Too bad it's a few inches too big.
Edit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OUXBKM/sr=1-4/qid=1319141064/ref=pop?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1319141064&sr=1-4 That might fit a little awkwardly, but it's closer.