Top products from r/Reprap

We found 29 product mentions on r/Reprap. We ranked the 95 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/Reprap:

u/crippledlemming · 1 pointr/Reprap

As a fellow Mac user, who also has a prusa mendel; I would highly recommend you use OctoPrint + a Raspberry Pi 3. This may not be a just starting out configuration but it makes life a lot easier in controlling the printer.

I use Slic3r for Mac configured to talk to the OctoPrint server through an API call, and I can send gcode to my printer across the network from the Slic3r application. With the RPi camera installed I can keep an eye on my prints without having to be in the same room.

Also you may be happier with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This PSU is a bit cheaper than your standard ATX PSU, it may be a good choice if you're looking to try this hobby out as cheaply as possible. It is a more difficult way of going because you will need to print something like:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:199089

To keep live 120VAC from being exposed on your bench.

Path of least resistance to getting started:

Slic3r > Repetier Host or PronterFace or Cura > Printer

The best way I've found (easiest):

Slic3r > OctoPrint

Seeing as I have the same printer and host OS configuration, feel free to DM me and I'll answer any questions you may have.

u/eatmyshorts · 2 pointsr/Reprap

I highly recommend Nophead's kit. It's fantastic--the quality of printed parts is excellent, the power supply and j-head are quality, and the Dibond helps to prevent resonances, making the printer quieter than ones built from plywood.

Don't over-tighten the nyloc nuts--it's very easy to do, and doing so will bend the Dibond slightly or crack the plastic parts.

Follow the directions very carefully. Everything is explicit in the instructions, but there aren't as many pictures/videos as I needed, and I ended up doing 2 steps incorrectly as a result. Nophead sells individual replacement parts, though, and everything he sells is quality and has a low profit margin. If you're not in the UK, though, shipping can get expensive.

You're going to need to strip very small gauge wire (for the ribbon cable, among others). Here's a great tip I learned to strip small gauge wire without breaking the wire:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yM4JsxirXPg

As others have stated, get a caliper. Also I find that a dial gauge is useful in leveling the bed--one like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-196521-Metric-Dial-Indicator/dp/B000LFYK0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396249675&sr=8-1&keywords=dial+gauge
Basically, after you get your first print, print up something like this:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:92852
Change a setting in your firmware to allow the z-axis to go below '0', and attach the dial holder to your x-carriage instead of your extruder. This will allow you to get a very level bed. Bed leveling is everything--it will help adhesion and make your prints much more reliable.

After you've got your bed level, print replacement parts from ABS for your extruder, especially the gears and extruder block. I had problems at one point with a jammed extruder, and the resulting stresses cracked my extruder block. I had a PLA extruder block replacement, but the way the extruder mounts to the block on the Mendel90 (directly with screws, rather than using an aluminum mounting plate on the j-head's groove mount) meant that it got soft when the extruder got up to temperature, causing the tip of the extruder to wobble and the prints to go badly. Printing an ABS extruder block solved my problems. It's nice to have a backup so you don't need to rely on /r/reprappif or on friends.

You won't go wrong with Nophead's kit. I've seen many kits, and helped many friends build their printers at my local hackspace. Nophead's kit is the nicest I've found. The only other printer in the same league is the Ultimaker, and it's quite a bit more expensive, especially if you want the one with the heated bed.

Once you've got some experience under your belt, order an extra Nema17 motor, and get an extra D-Sub connector and custom PCB from Nophead, and purchase an E3D hot end. Build a 2nd extruder--the Mendel90 allows you to replace the extruder by unscrewing only 2 wingnuts (no tools necessary!). The E3D hot end can print nylon and other hot materials. It's a bit longer than the J-head, so you'll lose some space on the z-axis. But it's a fantastic all-metal hot end.

u/ipeerbhai · 2 pointsr/Reprap

An easy option is to go to amazon.com and get this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TYHZ0A/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00

It's 30 bucks, has 2 heat pads, is all pre-wired, pre-stripped, glue backed, and has free shipping if you've got prime. I use it on EasyMaker( my own 3d printer design ) with a 1 foot square 1/8" thick piece of Aluminum from onlinemetals. It heats to 60C no problem. Something smaller -- say the size of a Prusa bed -- should easily heat to 110. Mark Gantor's lab ( aka the UW Seattle 3d printer lab/research group ) has used it to heat a prusa-sized bed to 110. EasyMaker uses a square foot sized bed, which is HUGE compared to other designs -- so don't let my 60C scare you. With 1 square foot of surface area, no existing heater can get to 110C.

you get 2 heat pads -- if you've got a really small bed -- say a makerbot cupcake or other mini-sized device, you could use just one. You can also use the switch if you like -- but I just wired directly to the RAMPS board. Super-easy. Done in 5 minutes.

Also -- I've found printing ABS on 60C Aluminum that has blue tape on top works great -- no curl, and safe to touch. I even printed a large, thin, flat thing using ABS -- no problem, everything stuck great, and nothing curled. Though, I normally print with PLA, and designed the machine around PLA, 60C is fine for ABS if you use blue tape instead of kapton( from my experience ).

Hope that helps!

u/ProfessionalHobbyist · 3 pointsr/Reprap

The safest thing is a properly-sized resistor on the 5V rail. If you don't do that, the PSU may appear to run fine without it initially and then randomly shut down, reset, etc., potentially ruining prints. You need to keep drawing 1-2 amps at 5V to keep things happy. If you really want ideas for things to put on 5V that are actually useful:

  • 5V LEDs
  • Raspberry Pi
  • a powered USB hub
  • USB webcam
  • 5V fan(s) to cool stepper drivers/control board

    Source: Have repurposed several AT and ATX PSUs for bench supplies and reprap power supplies.
u/karmedian · 1 pointr/Reprap

Great. I'll confirm with ryan turner what comes out of the box and go for a 24v. I really like your lighting, did you use something like this

u/Oh_Herro_ · 5 pointsr/Reprap

Measure the center-to-center spacing of the wire housings. If they are 2.54mm (.1") they are the JST XHP series as the other commenters pointed out out. Usually though, stepper connectors are the JST PH series and spaced 2mm center-to-center. These definitely look different though... is that a NEMA 17 or a NEMA14? Anyways if it's the more standard connection, it's a JST PHR-6 connector. These are the crimp pins that mate to the PHR-6. There are other ones for thinner wires, but you will want these for steppers. If it is instead what the other commenters have pointed out, you will want these connectors with these crimp pins. If you don't already have a crimp tool for thinner wires, I recommend these from experience.

EDIT- just want to add that if you don't feel you have a reliable way to measure the center-to-center spacing (like using calipers), you can always hold up a connector for an Arduino or similar, or an Arduino itself, and eyeball the pin spacing.

u/spauda01 · 2 pointsr/Reprap

You can hook it up as they recommend for the 24v configuration but that just provides the same amount of power at a different voltage so that doesn't help.


If you hook up 24v to the 12v terminals, you will quadruple the power and double the current.


Ohm's law, 12V=(1.2ohm)(10A) or 24v=(1.2ohm)(20A)


You would probably need a 600W 24v power supply and all of your wiring needs to be 10awg at least.


Hook it up like this diagram shows, except your bed power will connect to the 24v psu instead of the 12v.

https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/assets/25/7d/4a/1d/63/D-Bot_Electrical_Diagram.pdf


Here's the relay used, be sure to heatsink it

http://www.amazon.com/Single-Phase-SSR-40DD-DC3-32V-DC5-60V/dp/B012SW6TB6/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1444750548&sr=1-6&keywords=solid+state+relay+dc+-ac

u/russiancatfood · 3 pointsr/Reprap

If you have Amazon available, this is by far the best price on the full setup (plus LCD and SD card slot)

www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ZITDwb43HXT2

I've bought about 5 of them, and these guys may actually have some quality control.

u/Def_Not_KGB · 1 pointr/Reprap

I really like the Molex SL series, it's what we use at the company I work for. It's also already pretty common on 3D printers (Off the top of my head I know RAMBO boards already use it) and they are really quality.

You can have board to cable connections, cable to cable connections, panel mount connections, whatever you want.

Here's their 'roadmap' which I guess has some info, but if you want to find them on digikey this has everything you need.

Also for crimpers you can just get a generic molex crimper

u/recklesslittlemario · 1 pointr/Reprap

Granted depends on if you are working with 12 volt or 24 volts. Any reason why you want to go that way vs say a 12 volt 30 amp supply? like https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG

just wondering why you are looking at an 80 dollar power supply.

u/MaIakai · 1 pointr/Reprap

> y machine has two motors. Would I just splice them t

Stepper Motor Parallel Module
https://www.amazon.com/Aokin-Printer-Accessories-Parallel-Stepping/dp/B07Y42B87X/

You'll save $2-3 by ordering from Aliexpress if you choose free shipping, but you wont get it until January.

u/jfgomez86 · 1 pointr/Reprap

About Calibrating a Delta, I'm using this wizard to calibrate mine and I've got to a point where I can't seem to get better than [-0.1:0.1] offset on all 7 probe points. I'm using 6 factor and [a gauge like this](uxcell Metric Thickness Feeler Gage Gauge (0.02-1.00mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052IRYVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_WJL7ivK8ztXUi) using the 0.1 mm sheet to measure the height between the nozzle and the bed.

How do I know when to stop?

u/Kariko83 · 2 pointsr/Reprap

I have build a C-Bot and am currently using a Fotek 40A SSR you can get off of amazon. This was the listing recommended by the creator of the C-bot in his rework design btw. I have it attached to the aluminum extrusions directly with some heatsink compound between them and it barely gets warm during operation.

u/ArchieHicox · 1 pointr/Reprap

I just built my i2 I've had laying around and ordered some cheap electronics kit off amazon, This one. I'm using a 12v 30 power supply off amazon as well. I configure marlin and after messing with the endstops finally I get the motors to move. next onto the thermistors. both the bed and the extruder are working and reading 25c at room temp as long as the 12v power supply is turned off. as soon as I turn it on the extruder goes to 0c and the bed remains at 25c. I tested the thermistor and im getting ~99-98k ohms at around 25c room temp. I also went into marlin and changed the temp pins for the extruder from t0 to t2 in the ramps_pin.h script. same result.

Do I have a bad ramps/Mega? or has anyone seen this problem before? am I missing somthing in the firmware that might fix this or should I buy a less cheap ramps and mega?
Thanks

u/partsoven · 1 pointr/Reprap

Molex connectors on the wiring is the first thing to make sure. Rewire the steppers connector. You really need to make certain you have a proper crimper tool for them otherwise you will constantly be battling this type of problem. This one works good. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLN93S/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/PhanMan71 · 1 pointr/Reprap

Thanks, I've got the Einsy rambo cloned from the mk3 as is most of the parts i've got, strangely this board takes 24v but requires 5v fans (linked up in my post). I'll look into the line regulator too to learn bout em

They've actually got [5v version noctua fans now] (https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA) but I decided to go for a sunon from digikey that had better air pressure

u/apachexmd · 1 pointr/Reprap

Micro Deans are what I use on my hotend. I have two 4pin connector running my heater cartridge , thermistor, fan, and LED ring.

http://www.amazon.com/Deans-Micro-Pin-Connector-Black/dp/B000BOXMDW

u/lumpy_potato · 1 pointr/Reprap

> a quarter inch wide on an SMT pad.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40LK-Watt-Soldering-Iron/dp/B000HE5BZS

I think it was pretty close. Whatever the case, it seems that I choose poorly. Hopefully I can still return it as defective or something.

I was warned via youtube tutorials to avoid the fixed-wattage irons, and I think I now understand why - lesson well learned.

u/BillDaCatt · 5 pointsr/Reprap

SSR or Solid State Relay. It's a switch to turn line voltage power on and off using low voltage (3-32VDC).

Here is one on Amazon with a heatsink.

u/solidtwerks · 1 pointr/Reprap

360w Here is the PSU that I have.

u/gordo1223 · 1 pointr/Reprap

I zero my extruder and move it to the corners. At each corner, I manually adjust the bed until the correct feeler gauge barely fits. Takes less than 5 minutes about once a month.

http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-sae-metric-feeler-gauge-32214.html


http://www.amazon.com/25025-26-Blade-Master-Feeler-Gauge/dp/B000BYGIR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409135061&sr=8-1&keywords=feeler+gauge