Best advice is to keep it simple. Focus on brakes and tires first! Do some basic setup and then recognize while you are on track when you are at the limit of your basic setup, then go from there.

You already have SS brake lines, good! Fill them with good 600°F brake fluid (several were mentioned already). Do this every few events and be meticulous about doing it RIGHT and making sure there are NO LEAKS. Safety first! This and pads are your #1 safety item. Then an instructor, then good tires, helmet, seat belts, etc. Again, keep it simple.

Parts:

Use whatever rotors are on the car for now, and buy a set of these as backup whenever htey start to warp: Centric 120.40048CRY Cryostop Rotor
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K1H2V6

Brake Pads, order a set of Hawk HP+ pads. You will get advice all over the board on what is best and blah blah blah. These are great bang for your buck and you can street them as well.
Hawk Performance HB361N.622 HP Plus Brake Pad
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IEYNOM
Fronts are most important, do all 4 corners once you start to get comfortable with the car and/or go to a bigger track.

Think you're done with brakes? NOPE! Now let's talk heat. You're just starting to go on the track and want to be out for as long as possible to work on consistency and technique. If you're going to do any sizeable track with big braking zones you will want some way to keep the brakes cool. A lot of people poo-poo this step and then complain about how the stock brakes suck SO bad. I have had my s2k on CoTA, Road America, and BIR with zero brake fade with the setup I'm describing.
Option one: remove the dust shields, this will help reduce captivated heat
Option two: brake duct kit. DIY worked best for me:
-Lambert spindle mounts: http://www.lapponline.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_66_67&products_id=180
-Front Bumper inlets. WASP makes nice stuff but they SUCK to deal with and idk if they're even in business anymore. Several other options out there.
-Aircraftspruce.com has all the ducts and such you need:
Qty Ship B/O Item Unit Price Total Price
11 05-29910 SCAT-10 DUCTING 2 1/2" 7.500 82.50
6 QS200-40H BREEZE CLAMP 200-40H 1.880 11.28
1 01-00990 RESCUE TAPE 1" X 12' BLACK 9.350 9.35 (helps with rubbing)
3 05-02200 RUBBER "U" CHANNEL 1.350 4.05
50 11-04229 7" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-1-9 0.040 2.00
50 11-13475 14" 120LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-3-9 0.150 7.50
50 11-04058 14" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-2-9 0.090 4.50
Subtotal: USD 121.18


Ok great, now you have good brakes, you already said you have RS3 tires on there, buy a nice tire gauge and keep an eye on pressures & tire wear!
Joes Racing 32307
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404WDUC

While you're at it, check the oil. Seriously, these things can (but don't necessarily) burn through a lot of oil depending on conditions and the track. Just keep an eye on it and plan for keeping an eye on it. Not a bad thing.


Get a good basic alignment on the car, max out the stock adjusters for camber front and rear, zero toe front and about .25" total toe in the rear, then you're good to go! If you are feeling DIY-ish pick up a Quick Trick alignment kit to bust this out quick and easy in your garage or at the track.


Once you get comfy with the car however you have it setup today suspension/wheel-wise, you can start to look at a few next-steps. Do all of these at the same time as its the combo that shines over any one part.
-lowering springs/coilovers (I did ohlins, so awesome)
-front swaybar (A simple eibach will do!)
-front bumpsteer correction kit/spacers
-17x8.5 or 17x9 square wheel setup with 255/40-17 tires. RS3's, Maxxis, VR1, are great lapping-day options. RE71R for quick/short/fast hot laps.

1 rule: HAVE FUN!

I’ll post good after pics tonight on a separate post, the before pics aren’t great quality. Honestly the top was in great condition for how old it is, but I really baby this thing so I did it anyway very carefully. I’m very happy with the results. Already multiple people asked if it’s a new top.
Forever Car Care Products FB813 BLACK Black Top Gel and Foam Applicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001879CUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KRm.AbFME1KSN

What year and how many miles? For brake pads I use Hawk HPS and use ATE BLUE brake fluid:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COCNEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO665W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VXRPL0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  For the clutch I've got the Science of Speed sport 400 (capable of 400ft/lbs torque) and an 11 lb Comp Clutch flywheel. If you're not making a ton of power the SoS comp 300 would be ideal.
  
  
• https://www.scienceofspeed.com/index.php/s2000/dpp/clutch-flywheel/scienceofspeed-sport-400-hybrid-clutch-kit-s2000-2000-09.html
  
  
• http://competitionclutch.com/base/products/flywheels/
  
  You'll also want to replace your thrust and throwout bearings and have your stock flywheel resurfaced if you are leaving it stock. I've got continental tires front and back (on stock style 1 AP2 wheels).
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014SLGEBA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5AKV4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
  I love the shit out of them. They grip well and are outstanding in the wet. The pads don't make any noise and the clutch is widely considered to be the most "oem quality" one on the market. You should definitely flush your tranny and diff while you're doing all of this. Honda MT gear oil in the gear box and Amsoil SevereGear 75w110 is my shit. The stuff I posted is marginally more expensive over the ~10%-15% cheaper stuff on eBay so just spend the money and keep it nice. It's worth it in the end.

Like other mentioned, get the wheel woolies to keep the barrels clean.

​

Unless the car is just going to sit in your garage and polished with a diaper then I wouldn't spend a bunch of money/time on it. Get one of the popular brake dust cleaners(like Sonax), do a good clean, maybe throw a cheap coat of wax on the inside barrel with whatever you have laying around, keep them clean with the woolies and then just go enjoy the car.

If you have a cordless drill purchase the 3M lens cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396048236&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+lens+cleaner

There are more than enough pads in there for 2 headlights. Take off your front bumper and put up your hood, this will make the task so much easier. Triple painters tape the paint around top and sides. Get a squirt bottle from Autozone, Homedepot, etc and fill it with water. Take your time, it should take around 45 minutes to do both.

Also do them at the same time, each step. Don't complete one and move to the other.

Afterwords protect and clean with: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1396048450&sr=8-5&keywords=3m+lens+cleaner

What's better about them than something like this?

This will be super handy: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Q8TU0

I can't comment on your particular issue, but I use Sonax wheel cleaner and I really like it. It melts away brake dust etc. and it turns purple when it "reacts" with debris on your wheels.

Honestly, you should get some ramps.

I've done this swap with an LS1, so a few tips.

First off, check your coilovers with the front sway bar relocation. I didn't find out till later that the way bar end link bolts will dig into the coilover. After speaking with Import Muscle, I was told that they didn't test with anything but the OEM suspension

Second, if you find that the reverse sensor on the Fbody T56 is a little awkward because of how it sticks out, you can get these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9MZI4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5DUI2

I'm sure there are some others, but I can't think of them right now. I'll edit this post if I remember any more.

https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648827-2-Inch-Valve-Adjustment/dp/B0002Q8TU0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502803631&sr=8-1&keywords=valve+adjuster

this tool works great for quick adjustments.

the hardest thing on the valve adjustment job is getting the damn valve cover back on the engine.

Hard to beat the price and shipping of Amazon IMO.

• $11 OEM Oil filter
  
• $11 OEM MTF
  
• $11 75/90 Diff FYI. There is no OEM diff fluid.
  
• $8 A pump
  
• $13 OEM Grease for your shifter

For those of you attempting this, this tool will make it MUCH easier. Magnetized removal means no keepers flying about, and installation of the new retainer and keepers is a breeze

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-36200-Keeper-Remover-Installer/dp/B000P0ZJIS

For me, it was part #10 on this diagram:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=S2000&catcgry2=2005&catcgry3=2DR+S2000&catcgry4=KA6MT&catcgry5=MOLDING+-+PROTECTORS

Philips head screw comes out, and you kind of massage/pull the part out (there's a clip on the other side that you don't have access to. Careful not to bend or break it.

Once removed, I'd pour water under there to verify. If that's the spot, dry it out completely, and Permatex/RTV it liberally at the metal seam and quarter panel:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80050-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0002UEPVI

Has your car had the quarter panel on that side replaced out of curiosity?

Here you go!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GGTJFYY/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_JlCFDbKEE3KK8

A118-C Dashcam. I'm connected to the ignition accessory terminal with an inline fuse to the 12v to 5v and ran/hid the wire going to the cam along the pillar.







https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SNGSI9I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TGQ1Y3Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HOV4VS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094DFECI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I haven't tried. Mine gets driven even less than that but I keep it plugged in to one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S

So you have these? They look a little more complicated to install. If that's not them, what do you have? Remember I'm an audio-newbie, so anything that involves an amp or extra wiring confuses me.