(Part 2) Top products from r/SVRiders

Wheel weights can really just go anywhere on the wheel there's a flat enough spot to stick it to, but I try to get it as close to the center as possible. I use stick-on weights, but the guy who I had doing my tires before always used the clamp-on weights. Both seem just fine.

You throw the wheel with tire onto the balancer and the heavy spot will orient itself downward. Add the weights to the light end that is upward. I use a piece of electrical tape to hold weights on temporarily and add them until it's balanced enough that the wheel wont spin on its own. It's not as awesome as those big expensive machines that tell you where to put the weights, but I've personally never had issues. Just takes patience and forethought.

Here are the tool I use:

Rim savers These work very well, but I think if you have spoons that aren't flat and wide like the motion pros it can break the plastic it's made from. Mixed reviews. Some recommend three, but they're sold in pairs. I went ahead and got two sets in case I broke one somehow.

Wheel balancer I had heard horror stories about the cheaper end balancers and figured I'd just do it right the first time and went ahead and got this thing. Very solid piece of equipment.

Two smaller spoons - These work great I think. I have a slight bias toward motion pro since, in my experience, they make good stuff.

Large spoon - It's useful for the last part of the tire if you can't manage it with a shorter spoon. More leverage. Not entirely necessary, but three total spoons is ideal.

Air compressor - To set a bead you need one with a high enough PSI, but this was bought with the air tools in mind. I'm pretty sure it would be overkill for just mounting tires.

Bead breaker - There is a motorcycle specific one that I saw, but it seemed like it was designed for scooter wheels that are much smaller. I saw it in action at a friends house and it works fine as well.

There are competing brands and vendors for everything you can think of, so shop around for whatever you decide on doing. There's a good chance there's a better deal out there on something. I just use amazon for reference.

Barely...

I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.

0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.

• Chain
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/RK-520-GXW-XW-Ring-Chain/dp/B002OMSCWK/ $95
    
• Front Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Sprocket-Suzuki-1999-2008/dp/B07BQJS1J4 $45
    
• Rear Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Steel-Rear-Sprocket/dp/B00M9M80UE $50
    
• Rivet Kit
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087Y493A $100
    
    

1. PC V with a Dyno tune = YES! << I'm planning to get this done but not for power, I'm looking to lean out the bike for efficiency after the chain and sprocket set. I want better mileage, lower the richness.
   
   
2. PC V with downloaded maps = NO!!! << I removed mine and enjoy the bike more. It runs rich either way. Without the PCV the bike seems better across the power band. I have added a couple maps, some changes, still always rich.
   
   Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.

Here is the filter you need (just search for the model number on Amazon and you can buy it there. Your model number is KN-138). For oil, I run Rotella Synthetic, but any 5W-40 or 10W-40 will work (the 5 and 10 just designate the temperature at which it will still run well, ie 5 C or 10 C. I live in the north east so I go for 5 for peace of mind). Regardless of which you choose, you'll need about 2.9 quarts for a full (ie with filter) change.

Get some nitrile gloves (especially for spreading oil on the filter when you install it), shop towels for clean up, and you may want to look into getting a new crush washer for the drain bolt (not sure if/when yours has ever been replaced. They can last a while, but it's not a bad idea to replace it if you aren't sure). An oil filter clamp isn't a bad idea to help with getting them off, but I doubt you'll have issue with it. Don’t forget a good oil drain pan (I recommend this one with a screw in, top spout – this is what the oil would drain into – the oil filter holder on the top so it can drain over 24 hours, as well as a front spout), as well as a funnel to help you get the oil in.

Let me know if you need help with anything else. I've found these instructions helpful for those new to it and they are the exact same for you, too. What do you need to change the rectifier for?

1. Get JIS screwdrivers if you don't have them already. The carbs are brass and it's easy to strip the screws.
   https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=13IVJB32CWN3L&keywords=jus+screwdriver&qid=1555384541&s=gateway&sprefix=jis+&sr=8-2
   
   
2. YouTube Shane Conley. He's an automotive teacher and posts some incredibly informative videos
   https://www.youtube.com/user/conleybuilt
   
   
3. for the valves, finding the right feeler gauge was a pain. Here's what I landed on.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039LBDK8/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Here's the shim kit
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UKM6LG/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   measure the shim before you put it in. You will be doing extra work if you replace a shim only to discover it's the wrong size after install when you're double checking everything.
   
   
4. I've got a post around here from me doing shims, I'll try to find it because there's other good stuff in there.
   Found the link, looks like I got most of it. There's other good stuff though.
   https://www.reddit.com/r/SVRiders/comments/an7gab/you_guys_rock/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
   
   
5. drop the radiator before doing shims, it's so much easier.
   
   
6. if you have manual tension adjusters, grab a set of socket extensions and flare nut crows feet
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRJF4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
   
   
7. measure and record everything, draw your own pictures and diagrams
   
   
8. telescoping magnet and good lighting because you WILL drop something, somewhere
   
   
9. check float height since you're in there already but you may not need to clean much on the carbs if there's not a power issue. The bowl gaskets do leak sometimes, might as well replace those. Definitely check the float needle.
   
   
10. when cleaning, remember the needles are brass which is soft. Don't abuse them because they're easy to scratch.
    
    Edit
    
    
11. grab a torque wrench for putting it back together and be very careful not to cross thread, the aluminum in the head is easy to rip out if you over torque or cross thread. Especially the bolts for the valve covers.

For anyone who is interested, I used VHT Gold Caliper Paint.

I kept the brake lines connected but removed the calipers and pads. Then washed/scrubbed them with soap water, followed by a wipe down with denatured alcohol to remove any oils.

Then I masked everything off, as you can see in the first pic. After three coats I was happy with how they looked. Next came a heat gun to cure the paint. About 20 minutes on each caliper.

Reassembled and was done! I'm more than happy with the stock brakes on the SV but wanted a bit more color. I'm really pleased with how they turned out!

It's just the parking light bulb. It's just a t10 wedge bulb I believe.

Here's an LED headlight bulb that should be a lot brighter than the stock halogen: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WG1FL6R/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_sOHTDbTN1XDEV

That led bulb is nice because it replicates the placement of the filament on a halogen bulb so the beam pattern should be about the same, it'll just be brighter. Plus you won't be blinding oncoming traffic lol

If you're going to get an LED headlight bulb then you should get an LED t10 bulb for the parking light too or else it'll look weird having two different colored bulbs. Or you could just take the parking light bulb out and not replace it lol

I will probably end up ordering this L-shaped Torx screwdriver set, so I can also give T30 a try.

If it truly is stripped, then I may have to go with the dremel method. Thanks for the input everybody.

K&N filters are popular. I got lucky and scored one for 6 bucks but it's still only 12 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E2CVDI/

I don't know about you OP, but I wipe my bike down after every ride. It seriously just takes a minute and it is always looking clean (apart from the brake dust on my silver wheels). Buy Meguiar's Quick Detailer and a microfiber cloth. After every ride, spray this all over your bike and wipe down with the microfiber cloth. I spray this on the tank, tail, even on the front windscreen and mirrors.

eh

It cleans shit out and burns varnish and all that.

Seafoam these days is more of a fuel stabilizer (slightly) and a valve lube. as well as burns carbon :P

b12 burns crap out of passages.

seafoam es smokeh.

yes you put it in the gas.

I use seafoam when I buy a new vehicle to lube the valves as well as I like smoke :P



be careful how you mix. sometimes they don't play nice with cat converters

I just replaced my chain / sprockets. I went with Vortex steel sprockets (15/44) off revzilla, and a RK GB520GXW chain from Amazon. All in I think it was under $140 with 2 day shipping. The chain needs to be cut down to 108 links and don't forget a rivet tool.

Any particular reason you want to stick with 525 vs 520?

Krazy Glue KG92548R Instant Krazy Glue 0.18-Ounce All Purpose Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQSFSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YR7VCbVTZ48T1

I don't know how tall or wide a screen needs to be before it becomes functional. I was considering this one.

Here, This will do the trick :P

https://www.amazon.com/Suzuki-SV650-1999-2009-Maintenance-Troubleshooting/dp/1599696274/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524594344&sr=8-1&keywords=clymer+manual+sv650

From my Google doc:

• gsxr front end
  
• protek ll-45 lowering links (at stock height, from previous owner)
  
• delkevic 320mm ss tri-oval slip-on exhaust (w/o baffle)
  
• vortex v3 keyless gas cap
  
• oem sv tank pad (990D0-16G00-PAD)
  
• generic mirror plug blanks
  
• mzs black shorty levers
  
• yamaha r6 throttle sleeve
  
• speed bleeders f/r
  
• targa fender eliminator
  
• targa mini oval turn signals
  
• sbl ba9s led turn signal bulbs
  
• generic led flasher relay
  
• sbl lsc-100a brake light strobe module
  
• opt7 fluxbeam cree h4 led headlight
  
• vortex steel 520 sprockets 15f/47r (15/45 stock)
  
• rk racing gb520xso chain
  
• svracing captured rear wheel spacer kit
  
• smartmoto dealer mode tool
  
• tps adjustment (set to ~1600 rpm)
  
• sv1000 air snorkel (13891-16G20)

I'm using this battery charger:

https://www.amazon.ca/Yuasa-YUA1200901-Smart-Battery-Charger/dp/B000GZL29M

I'm not installing a new battery at the moment. Just charging it and then will be checking it with the multimeter and doing a load test when it is fully charged.

And turning it in the lock handlebars position will not make the batter run right? But turning it into the "P" position will drain the battery? It's my first bike so I have very limited knowledge.

Charge the battery. Then start the bike. Get a volt meter and measure the battery. Does it read 13.6/14? Then your stator is working. If its reading below 12.2/12ish then no its not.

Any cheap multi-meter like this will do.
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Digital-Voltmeter-Ohmmeter-Multimeter/dp/B00B7CS3UY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1426052117&sr=8-7&keywords=multi+meter

To make it easier to check You may as well buy a battery tender if you haven't already. Run the lead somewhere (I ran it under my passenger seat so I can plug in a USB adapter to charge my phone while I ride. But then you can meter off that in a pinch also. Not to mention it will slowly trickle charge you battery (It won't be fast by any means, but I've done it myself after this past winter, as my shed has no close by power and I didn't have time to bring my battery inside)
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426052180&sr=1-1&keywords=battery+tender


If its showing good when running you have a power draw somewhere. keep the meter connected while the bike is off. then pull one fuse at a time until it appears the load goes away(aka the voltage stays the same for a while without it draining down. Especially if its dead in 4 minutes you should be able to see it quickly). You may have a short in your lights. That's normally where I would expect it.