Top products from r/SWORDS

Please don’t touch steel blades with your fingers, that’s what creates rust. Keep the blade oiled.

It's a shamshir, but it depends what you mean by “real damascus.” This looks like a well forged form of pattern welding, but not classical “wootz” crucible steel. Does that mean it’s wrong for this type of sword? I don’t know if that’s necessarily true, especially if it’s a later-period sword (as I suspect this is). This topic is so far outside my primary field that I really don’t know how this sword should be judged. Overall though I’d say the level of fit and finish makes me somewhat optimistic. It does seem like a “real” sword (as opposed to tourist knockoff or purely ceremonial). The koftgari is nice but not masterful. I’d very tentatively guess 18th–19th century.

Sorry I don’t have any more germane knowledge to offer, but congrats in any case.

---

FWIW, here are (maddeningly unlabeled) similar examples:

Horse head

Peacock

---

If I were you, I’d post it to the Middle Eastern subforum at SFI, where Dr. Khorasani posts (as Manouchehr M.) – as well as other experts. You will get a much more knowledgeable response there than you could ever get on Reddit. But thanks for sharing it with us!

---

EDIT: So the more I look, the more pessimistic I become. Although it looks nice enough, the genuine examples I see all have a much tighter form of pattern welding or wootz, whereas examples with this large “whorl” pattern welding are all more recent Indian tourist pieces (and are accordingly much less valuable). Just for example.

I will keep looking, but you really ought to just post them to SFI. Please let us know if you do. Thanks!

I'd recommend this book, The Medieval Longsword by Guy Windsor . In the intro, he breaks down the sword by its parts and functions. Then he goes into a bunch of beginner exercises, sword handling drills, and other really great starting off material for Longsword. The HEMA group I practice with uses Guy's syllabus for our classes and it is highly effective! I've also attended two of Guy's seminars, he's very knowledgable and good spirited, he's been studying Fiore for over 25 years now!

> able to have its sheath replaced

Yes.

> and it's hilt remade into a traditional katana

Maybe. It depends on what the tang is like. It is certainly possible to have a new hilt made that looks like a traditional katana hilt.

But either of these would cost much more than the value of the sword if you were get it done professionally. It would be cheaper to just buy a new katana. Something that's better than this, either before or after restoration, could be had for under US$100.

> what type of katana this is

It's a fantasy katana.

The plain hilt and scabbard without guard or the usual fittings that strengthen the hilt and scabbard (hilt: fuchi (ferrule), kashira (pommel cap), and rayskin and cord wrapping; scabbard: koiguchi (scabbard mouth) and kojiri (scabbard foot)) is based on the Japanese shirasaya, a plain wooden scabbard and hilt for storage. A sword blade is put in shirasaya for storage, not to be used. But "shirasaya" is used describe plain no-fittings mountings for various swords, even if they are made to be usable. This is a mis-usage of the Japanese term.

Katana and similar with a forward-curved hilt are often called "jintachi". This is Japanese for "battle sword", and in Japanese refers to a sword suspended from the belt like a tachi (but would also include short swords and odachi worn like this, as well as normal tachi). For some reason (some anime?), this term was appropriated for these forward-curved hilts.

Combining these mis-uses of Japanese terminology, this sword would be a "shirasaya jintachi".

Real shirasaya: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Wakizashi_2.JPG

"Shirasaya" made for use: https://www.amazon.com/MAKOTO-Handmade-Sharp-Samurai-Shirasaya/dp/B07PHV8THX (note fittings to reinforce hilt and scabbard)

"Jintachi": https://www.swordsoftheeast.com/handmadesamuraisword66.aspx

"Shirasaya jintachi": https://www.swordsoftheeast.com/blackshirasayasword.aspx

I purchased an unsharpened version of this for Iaido training: http://smile.amazon.com/Musashi-Carbon-Steel-Miyamoto-Sword/dp/B002IZC83C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1411607379&sr=8-4&keywords=musashi+sword
Mine has 2 pins in the full tang handle. I recommend also buying a cleaning kit. A wooden saya is more authentic to me but will wear or split over time from repetitive drawing and sheathing. I liked the price, reviews and a handle long enough to balance or use a two-handed grip. Educate yourself via research and reviews. Good Luck!

All right, look.

The Miyamoto Sword, made from specified AISI 1060 carbon steel, offered by Musashi, available from Amazon for $125 USD with free shipping.

1060's good enough to slice through water bottles and tatami mats and not worry about bending or chipping the edge. If you cut at the right angle.

So if you REALLY NEED A SWORD THIS SECOND OMG OMG OMG IT CAN'T WAIT o_o SO KAWAIIIII... well then, there you go.

Otherwise, there are a bunch of other vendors you can get a quality practice katana from. Ronin Katana, Cheness, Hanwei, others. But those cost more, and they take time to get it shipped to you.

One of the people at my iaido class won a Musashi in a raffle and he's been very happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/AccuSharp-1-001-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B00004VWKQ

This is the easiest way to sharpen a knife/sword if you don't mind having bevel. I have used this to sharpen stainless steel and carbon steel, works great.

I just got the Condor Dadao ... Amazon Link and I think it is one of the best full tang, 1075 High Carbon Steel blades one can buy for less than $90.

Review Video

Testing Video

Your best starting place would be The American Fraternal Sword: An Illustrated Reference Guide

Oakeshott's book would be a great option, and there's a decent amount of good information on myArmoury and while the Oakeshott Institute's website doesn't get a lot of traffic, there's some decent articles there from what I remember.

There's plenty more out there, but some of that would depend on antique vs. repro/location/period etc. for more detailed info. Also depends on what info you're wanting (physical properties? time period used? geographical usage?)

I got one of these for my son to wear on Halloween. It's short, does not have an edge (though the tip is very pointy) and we had it so he couldn't remove it from the scabbard. I would recommend it but as others have said: it should be handled with utmost care.

Seriously, this is exactly what you're looking for

Yeah I totally feel you on that. An option if you don't want to send it out and don't have access to a belt grinder is to buy an "accusharp" http://www.amazon.com/AccuSharp-1-001-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B00004VWKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452262053&sr=8-1&keywords=accusharp+tool+sharpener It obviously isn't ideal, but it does a pretty good job and is mostly idiot proof.

The links provided are good, if you can I suggest you order in a book by Oakshott, The Archaeology of Weapons: Arms and Armour from Prehistory to the Age of Chivalry. This book will give a pretty broad understanding of swords, I've been working my way through it at a somewhat leisurely pace (so as to absorb the info better).


Here's an amazon link for you. http://www.amazon.com/The-Archaeology-Weapons-Prehistory-Chivalry/dp/0486292886

Not even remotely practical.
Also, considering the size of the pommel, it looks as though it would be horribly unbalanced.

If you're interested in the factors that medieval swordsmiths used in their designs and manufacture, check out Ewartt Oakeshott's typology of swords. It goes into great detail (sometimes really dry though) examining what made each type of sword unique and what the purposes of their designs were within their historical context.

http://www.amazon.com/Condor-Tools-Knives-Dynasty-4-Inch/dp/B007MXI1HW

The Condor Dadao is a badass chopper. Pretty damn durable, from my testing

http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=IP0042&name=Legacy+Arms+Stage+Combat+Norman+Sword

Or

http://www.amazon.com/Bud-K-Classic-Viking-Sword/dp/B000UVW2GY

The second I listed is a really low end sword but I've seen it take a lot of hits before- seen them used in a play.

Sure, but that's why I said "looks like."

It's an extremely narrow one-handed interpretation of what is in actuality a very large two-handed sword, with cast fittings. Leads me to suspect that a wall-hanger is more likely than a beater. EDIT Ah yes, a $27 decorative piece sold by BudK.

Here is the mobile version of your link

For European medieval swords, buy Oakeshott's two books on the subject. I believe his typology is presented in depth in both Records of the Medieval Sword and The Sword in the Age of Chivalry.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Hard to tell but maybe:

https://www.amazon.com/Whetstone-Cutlery-Rainbow-Blade-Sheaths/dp/B002QNRGME

This, they make a cutlass machete as well that gets good reviews but is slightly more expensive. Don't try to buy a Katana or something like that for that price range, you are just asking to get something that will shatter or fly apart or stab you in the chest.

Cutlass Machete
http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-97DRMS-Cutlass-Machete/dp/B006YBY91K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394330151&sr=8-1&keywords=cold+steel+machete+cutlass

What a Katana for the same price will get you...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kFgeZtkAb8

lets see:


Oakshott's "Sword in the age of Chivalry" - its much more text-based, rather than just pictures.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sword-Age-Chivalry-0/dp/0851157157


Deutsche Klingenmuseum "das Schwert" exhibition catalogue (dont worry, its bilingual) https://shop.histofakt.de/product_info.php?products_id=64


Niel Melville "the Two handed Sword"
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Two-Handed-Sword-History-Design/dp/1526733137


The Sword in Anglo-Saxon England: From the 5th to 7th Century by Paul Mortimer & Matt Bunker

Yes, slack belt grinders are great for sword sharpening.

Review the video that /u/Azekh posted below. The grinder in the video is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D96ZCG

Mike Edelson (the guy in the video) is amongst the foremost experts in the HEMA community on test cutting, and is single-handedly responsible for bringing japanese-style tatami cutting to HEMA. His method is the result of years of honing (pardon the pun) his skills.

I recently sharpened my new Albion Baron using this method, and it turned out fantastic, both in appearance as well as in cutting tatami. I've since sharpened weapons for others within my school. It's really great once you get the hang of it.

Summary of key takeaways (but watch the video, it's very important!):

1. Figure out your edge bevel. This is super-important. The video shows you how. Older albions are ~40 degrees. The cold steel hand-and-a-half is 60 degrees. Yours may be neither.
   
2. Cut a visual guide out of 2x4 at an angle that is half of your edge bevel. This allows you to position the sword on the guide to get the angle, then hold that angle through the process.
   
3. Hold the sword firmly and move it back and forth by moving your body, not your arms. If you move your arms, you lose your angle. If you move your body, you keep your angle. Simple 'eh?
   
4. Work your way up with progressively higher grits, but don't over-grind on the lower grits. 240 grit belts and even 400 grit belts can mess up your sword if you don't know what you're doing or are careless. My baron really did not have a sharp edge at all, so I started with 240. If you already have an edge that is somewhat sharp, maybe you start with 400? You'll figure it out.
   
5. The higher the grit, the more passes you need. Duh.
   
6. Don't forget the stropping leather.