Top products from r/SavageGarden

We found 62 product mentions on r/SavageGarden. We ranked the 200 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/SavageGarden:

u/predatoryplants · 4 pointsr/SavageGarden

There are some really awesome books out there:

The Savage Garden is always a great gift, but if he's an expert then he probably already has it. California Carnivores sells books signed by Peter (the author,) which could be fun.

Do you have an idea of what specific plants he's into (Nepenthes, sundews, Sarracenia)? If there's a specific type that he's passionate about, Stewart McPherson's books are incredibly detailed and beautiful (they're on Amazon too.)

Plants are a good way to go, but it's risky if you don't know what you're doing. If he's on any forums (Terraforums, etc) then he might have a "want list" posted. I know it's a stretch, but if you can find that then you're in great shape. If you happen to know of specific plants that he's after, PM me and I can try to help you source them.

u/CptNasty · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

I recently upgraded to one of these.

It is more than I need, but that was the idea as I wanted to expand my collection. My VFT, drosera, and s.purpurea all love it and have colored up really nice. My B52 in particular has been throwing up huge traps with deep maroon centers and my d.multifida is ruby red. I'm in love.

Incidentally I have some regular ol' un-named houseplants, an odd orchid, etc. and they sit "near" the light. They enjoy the extra light as well even though they don't need it.

It is very bright and the light it gives is purple so you have to account for that, enclosing it or something.

u/bloks1995 · 3 pointsr/SavageGarden

First, welcome to the subreddit and the hobby! I will try to answer all of your questions, but if I miss something let me know. If anyone wishes to correct any of my advice go for it.

I believe your current soil should suffice for the time being. Many plants do not enjoy having their roots disturbed, so it is probably best to leave them be and replant them later. For the flytraps I would say this would be the tail end of next season's dormancy, and for the sundews, probably at least 4 months.

Your sundews are D. spatulata (I could be wrong on this one) and D. capensis; both are tropical, and will be fine staying inside year round, but you may wish to get a grow light (usually some sort of fluorescent fixture) for a more permanent setup.

The flytraps are a bit different. They will miss their dormancy this season, which is okay. You can put them in a cool windowsill, or just leave them, but I would not advise putting them outside at this point. If you have the outdoor space where they would get sun, they should probably be moved outside sometime in the early spring after the last frost (depends on your location/climate); if you plan on keeping them indoors, artificial light will probably be necessary, and I or someone else can help with that aswell. If they attempt to flower this year, it would probably be wise to chop off the flower stalk.

As a side note, for when you wish to repot the plants, a good soil mix is a 1:1 ratio of peat moss to perlite (or some people prefer sand). You can purchase peat moss from Lowes or Amazon and perlite from Amazon. The main thing is to make sure that whatever you buy has no additives or fertilizers; an example of something to avoid would be miracle grow perlite. If you live in a region where neither of these stores are an option, I'm sure we can find somewhere that you can purchase soil.

u/mercfh85 · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

Hmmm, I guess I was looking on that one site:

But im glad to know they aren't recommended...It kinda seemed like a hassle like you said.

I was looking at something like this:

Seemed to have good reviews.

Im thinking about getting one of those home depot 3 stack shelves: such as this:

I just wonder if i'd need some sort of reflective coating around the sides..or maybe if I keep the light close enough it would be ok.

Thanks for your help btw!

u/c4stiron · 2 pointsr/SavageGarden

Yay ! New CP people :)!

For water: Do not use Tap water. Use Distilled, Reverse Osmosis, or Rain water only.


Dormancy has been covered above. Where do you intend to keep your VFT? Inside / outside?

California Carnivores are a great resource for care tips :)

Also a good resource is the CP bible

u/Kijad · 9 pointsr/SavageGarden

First off, here is a good guide for growing VFTs, which should help a lot.

> I've been using regular seed-soil, as I read that they like low fertility-soil.

Accurate, but regular seed-soil still has way too many minerals in it - get some sphagnum peat moss and some perlite without any additives or fertilizers, then make a 4:1 ratio mix and repot into that. It's likely experiencing mineral burn on the roots which will kill it over time.

> So far I've been using tap-water, but am going to switch to rain-water.

Good - tap water may also kill plants over time, depending on the mineral content of the tap water.

> It has started to bloom though, which maybe is a good sign?

Not if the rest of the plant is wilting - I'd snip off the flower stalk so the plant stops putting energy into that and can focus instead on making more leaves / traps.

Looks like a few things are wrong with its setup, but they can all be fix-able - fixing the soil should be your first priority, then getting it in a semi-boggy condition (just use a ceramic bowl that you'd use for food or something for now) with rain water.

> Also, will these plants multiply on their own if conditions are good?

Yep - VFTs will put on baby plants over time from what I've seen - you can sometimes also propagate them via leaf cuttings. You might even be able to get new plants out of the flower stalk if you snip it and put it in some sphagnum moss (not peat moss, but the long-fibered stuff) and keep it wet, but I'm only just starting to try that myself.

Good luck! Hope that helps.

u/shuddles08 · 2 pointsr/SavageGarden

Wow, if you really want to make those heliamphora happy inside, you've got quite a project ahead of you. Get these things: an aquarium tank 30 inches long x 12 inches tall x about 12 or 15 inches wide. The first two measurements are the important ones. Get two of these to mount on each side of your tank:

Go led for best light:

Now get this for humidity:

wrap the tank in a reflective material, put your helis in, and they'll do fine.

u/WrinkledTime · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

Thanks, I was looking online at some of those this morning but wasn't sure about them. I have some very long cords with light fixtures at the end I grabbed on eBay, I was going to try them over hanging neps in dark corners. Those lights would be perfect in them.

I picked up this a few months ago and the orchids love it

u/LuminousLynx · 3 pointsr/SavageGarden

Here's a good amazon link:

New Zealand Sphag is the best stuff, that's what you wanna get. They produce Sphagnum in Chile and Wisconson as well I believe, but those varieties usually come with a bunch of sticks and other detritus in my experience. The New Zealand stuff is the softest and most porous.

To hazard a guess I'd say yours is probably Wisconsin sphag, I have some Nepenthes growing in the same right now that I should really change out soon.

Sorry for the long post, I just really love moss....

Oh also, Wisconson sphag isn't necessarily the worst thing to use, but it does break down fairly quickly and isn't the best at staying aerated.

u/Fattybitchtits · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

Right now I have three of these, they're dirt cheap and it really shows in the construction quality (cheap plastic, fiberboard back, zero waterproofing, included hanging wires are useless) but they work extremely well and the cons are pretty easily overcome. I have mine mounted with small zip ties to the underside of the shelf above the growing area which keeps it safe from water and damage and removes the need for the crappy mounting wire. The oldest one has been on 14 hours a day for four months and is working as well as the day I got it. Here's my new seedling set up that is a slight improvement over the one that produced the plants shown right now I have Droseras finlaysoniana, venusta, tokianesis, Filiformis red, auriculata, hookeri, Nidiformis, Capensis, and burmannii either germinating or as small plants and will be sewing binata, Capensis wide leaf, and intermedia cuba next week, plus I have a tray of ~50 sensitive plants, 8 dancing plants, 15 drosyphylum, and a couple desert rose seeds all germinating in a greenhouse. The plan is to sell most of the drosera at the end of the summer if they're big enough and make back some of what I've spent collecting.

u/Sashoke · 3 pointsr/SavageGarden

Hardware stores usually wont have the stuff you'll want to use, places like Lowes and Home Depot only carry Mosser Lee brand sphagnum which is basically 50% sticks and twigs, not very good stuff. Lowes and Home depot will also never carry unfertilized perlite in my experience. If you have any smaller, specifically plant shops in your town thats where you would want to look, otherwise, it is easy to find on amazon. Here is links to the stuff youll want:

If you cant find anything locally and have to wait on shipping, id reccomend flushing your pot with distilled water after removing all of the fertilizer pellets. When I say flush I mean really flush. Pour a lot of water in and let it run out the bottom, youre trying to rinse out all the possible mineral build up to help your plant live longer until your new soil arrives. Another user also mentioned more sunlight which is also a good idea, they like filtered sun all day if possible, southern facing windows are ideal but western facing windows will do as well.

u/res06myi · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

I have this giant one for a tree I’m overwintering indoors

SANSI 70W Daylight LED Grow Lights for Indoor Plants

These are the ones I use for most of my other plants

SANSI 24W LED Plant Light Bulb Full Spectrum LED Grow Light Plant Lights for Indoor Plants, E26 Grow Light Bulb for Hydroponics Greenhouse Houseplants Vegetable Tobacco, Sunlight White UV IR

40W Daylight LED Plant Light Bulb Full Spectrum Ceramic LED Grow Light Bulb, E26 Plant Bulb Sunlight White Grow Light for Indoor Garden Farming Greenhouse Grow Walls, UV&IR, 90-132V

They’re pricier than some others, but last way longer and are much more effective. They haven’t burned any of my plants that sit very close and are still effective a few feet away.

u/seanu13 · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

I use T5HOs for my other CPs, but for the neps I just have them under a couple of these large CFL grow lights with aluminum reflectors. I'd like to get either a new T5 strip or maybe play with LEDs (I have a couple that my pings like, but I've only just put a nep under one today). I grow orchids under the CFLs which is plenty for them, and had space on the shelf for the neps is how that happened.

This is the CFL.

I kind of feel like I could use more light for the nepenthes, so I'll likely be getting a new T5 fixture soon.

u/SCP239 · 2 pointsr/SavageGarden

I have this and it produces about 50k lux 10" away from emitters. I use it to light my 2x4 grow tent instead of a handful of less powerful lights.

And different carnivorous plants have different light and temp preferences. My light is too bright for direct use on my Nepenthes, but I bet Fly Traps or Sarracenia would love it being only ~6" away.

u/Rekov · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

I like it alright. It's pricier in comparison to the fluorescent lights. I have these two at the moment, though only the latter is in that grow shelf set up: (The advantage of this one is that it has two on/off switches so you can control half of the bulbs separately. It also has a power plug that you can plug another light in to. (This one is only two inches tall, so you can fit it into a grow shelf without losing as much headroom. The bulbs are connected by little cords at each end instead of over the top, and it only has one on/off switch and no plugs.

The thing to keep in mind is that the fluorescent lights are all about 1 ft x 4 ft, while the LED light is only 12.6x7.9x3 inches. I could fit three of the LED lights into the same space as one of the fluorescent lights. You can look at that as good or bad, I guess, since it means it's more expensive, but you can also get much brighter coverage over all if you invest in it.

The other thing to keep in mind is that the LED light is fairly loud. The fluorescent light is completely silent, while the LED is louder than a gaming desktop. They can supposedly be modded with quieter cooling fans though, if that matters.

u/jwaterworth · 2 pointsr/SavageGarden

> Do I put sand / bark / styrofoam / tiny rocks at the very bottom of the pot?

You dont have to put anything at the bottom of the pot. Personally I use rocks as a filter so I dont lose any medium through the drainage hole, but i've read you can use LFS and it'll do the same thing.

> Should I use an empty bottle inside the soil as a water reservoir or is a pipe with holes in it a better solution?

I've done both. With the bottle I can dump a lot of water very fast into the pot. I use it for my big pots. The pipe is okay but will quickly overflow and I still have to wait for the water to be absorbed into the soil before I can add more.

> After browsing this sub for a while, it seems to be the consensus to create a 33:66 to 50:50 mixture of sand:soil. Why is that a thing? Is it to make it easier for the water to spread throughout the pot?

There is a book called The Savage Garden where the author talks about different media mixes he has tried. For Sarracenia he recommends 80/20 peat to perlite. Perlite is porous so its full of air and will absorb water . The book also goes through other common mixes and states their benefits.

> Is the height of the pot an issue?

I dont think the height will be an issue. If youre worried about the amount of soil you'll need, you can put something in the bottom to fill up space. Ive heard people use Styrofoam to fill up space and reduce weight

> Will the water be able to spread to the middle from the bottom, or the bottom fill up with standing water that will eventually start to smell?

Peat moss is like a sponge and will keep itself moist all over as long there is water in the pot. I read a post from somebody who said they used new soil every 2 years because the plants started doing poorly and the water would start to smell bad at the bottom. I havent experienced any issues in my setups though.

u/Sarr_Cat · 3 pointsr/SavageGarden

> Is there a guide anywhere to owning them?

You're lookin' for a guide, huh? Well, this book is one of the best ones out there. Not only is it a guide to venus flytraps, it's a guide to all kinds of other carnivorous plants too. You could check your local library to see if they have it, the library near me does.

u/MizzElsaMizzElsa · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

I would go with something like this. Check around elsewhere for higher quality or cheaper ones. These work really well and a couple people on here use a few of these in a container to create a really effective large humidifier. That said I don't personally use them because I've had lots of them die quickly. I believe /u/cruzzfish1 has a pretty solid source for them.

u/oilxxx · 3 pointsr/SavageGarden

This should handle the job. Just need a clamping portable light socket unit. One without a reflector. Start out a couple feet away and if it looks like you need to move it closer, do it in increments. I don't have any plants like you, I just like looking at what's all about them. I use
300 watt bulbs on echeveria's which are light hogs.

u/Batcheeze · 3 pointsr/SavageGarden these lights are very bright, cheap compared to other lights. They are 250 watts and output more than enough light for your plants up to a max distance of 1 foot from the tip of your plant to the light. they cost around 75 bucks and are well worth the investment

u/Im_A_Boonana · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

I grow my VFT and D. Capensis inside using a CFL light/can light from amazon. They thrive if you leave it on all day. This is the one that I have and it works beautifully

The glass vase might be another problem as well. Maybe not what you're dealing with currently but like someone else said, you need to have a way for the water to drain. I would suggest an unglazed ceramic pot. It should be inert enough for carnivorous plants and they're extremely breathable. The only thing to consider is that minerals can build up in it, so once a year or so, either replace the pot or soak it in distilled water.

u/Vew · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

Ooh, that explains my question. This is the one I use. Seems to work pretty well.

u/Emerl · 3 pointsr/SavageGarden

Yeah they are indoor until October when I move them outside for a few weeks to prepare for winter then I throw them into the fridge along with the sarracenias lol

My setup is simple: black IKEA table with this light fixture

I use 3 6500k and 1 2700k for the set up and hang the lights around 10 inch from the plants

u/UmarthBauglir · 2 pointsr/SavageGarden

Here you go:

I'm happy enough with it I bought a second one after I left my first one out on a night that froze.

u/bisnicks · 2 pointsr/SavageGarden

Try this.

I have the 4 foot version with 4 tubes and am growing plenty of sundews, pitchers, and flytraps under it. They are getting a nice red coloration. I have them sitting roughly 4-5 inches below the lights and the temps only ever get up to 77 or so degrees.

u/dexxsonic · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

I was just thinking this

And the smart plug and z wave hub I already have. They all work with ifttt, so I should be able to trigger them together. Guess I'll try it and report back.

u/anferny08 · 3 pointsr/SavageGarden

This unit has been fantastic for me for the past year. After one year of use, it still puts out 0ppm water.

I produce about 3 gallons a day with it (small-ish collection). But obviously it's capable of up to 50 gal/day. Note though that these RO systems put out waste water at a ratio of like 2:1 in my experience (more like 4:1 at the beginning of life), so I have to find something to do with 5-10 gallons of super hard (140ppm) water every day.

If you hate wasting water, consider capturing the waste water in buckets and flush your toilet with it. That's what I do, or occasionally dilute slightly with regular tap water and water your other plants.

u/rhymeswithbear · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

You can try refilling the jugs at the water dispenser usually in front of the grocery store. I purchased a small TDS meter for about $10 to test the water and used it for years.

Ultimately, I had too many plants and bought this:

I have been using it for two years and it is going strong, but probably needs a cartridge replacement soon.

u/KrazYKinetiK · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

See, this is why I'm confused.. These are the exact fixtures that Natch had recommended and that he grew with these ones which they say are HO and are 24 watts.. So I'm not too sure why they're reading so low.

u/mobscura · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

This is what I recently got, which I'm trying to make last as long as possible.

u/edman007-work · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

I have a raspberry pi with a USB ZWave stick to control my home, my plants are monitored with this sensor, and I control the lights and humidifier with a zwave controlled plug