(Part 2) Top products from r/Trucks

Well you say you warm the engine up for 10mins, but that's only the engine, your trans will still be 90% cold (all but little bit of conductive heat from the engine). Do you happen to have a garage? You could get a transmission pan heater (might as well get an oil pan heater too) then you can just set one of those wall timer things, just wire them up so the cords are on the driver's side, and hopefully you have an outlet on the driver's side, then you can just plug them in when you get home and unplug them before you leave. I'd set the timer 2 hours before you leave, and then you could start your truck like 5 minutes before you leave (just so the oil has enough time to go through everything, but the block should be warm anyways, just an extra safety measure i guess). I'd highly recommend doing it.

Heater

Mechanical Timer

See this reference, page 6 under "Tools Required":

>Welding or cutting, in most instances, is not required; however, there are variations in different vehicles that may require the use of a welder or cutting torch.

Additionally, page 8 under "Body Lifts":

>A body lift is not required on both the 2WD & 4WD versions. However, we have found that a body lift greatly increases additional engine, transmission tunnel & hood clearance. This, therefore, reduces the amount of firewall and floor pan modifications. Usually a 2” body lift is adequate in helping to alleviate these clearance problems.

So, looks like you might be able do it without any cutting or welding. That whole PDF looks like a good read for someone going to attempt the swap.

Looks like there's several places that sell swap kits for putting a V8 in an S10, and here looks like good reference material for the swap, or might not be a bad idea to buy it to see what you'd be getting into.

The escalades and denalis all have a small factory cooler.
Im running a ACDelco 89022577 GM Original Equipment Automatic Transmission Auxiliary Fluid Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9TRWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y.zhAbN0GW6H8

Because i got a good deal on it. I ran a hayden 689 30k cooler on my denali. Pretty easy to find around 60 iirc.

You can bypass the radiator if you live in a warm climate though i didnt bother, but if you do it protects you against the strawberry milkshake issue where the rad can fail and mix coolant with trans fluid.

The overkill option is the transcool 40k, the performance/towing guys generally run that.

Install for that delco cooler was plug and play basically iirc. Just had to release one of the brackets holding the line at the rad support to move it over. The Hayden one i cut off the stock fittings and used some hose clamps same deal woth moving the line over. I always hard mount mine bc i dont like those mounts they come with

Vette servo is an easy install and costs about $20. I did mine in the driveway... Reduces slippage. Paying someone to install should be 1 hr labor. They should come that way from the factory. Not harsh at part throttle at all, my wife never noticed...but you can feel it shift harder at wot.

Yeah, no one makes anything for 1st gen Daks. They're these.

"Black Off Road Scene Easy Fit Mud Guard 11" - Set of 2 "
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NIJS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I was looking for some that said 4x4 on them in a non-gaudy way because that's what the original flaps had. But I couldn't find any that weren't in some weird font. So these'll do. Very happy with the quality for the price.

I've always used 3M weatherstripping adhesive. Amazon carries it, but I usually get it from my local parts place.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B00063X38M

Not sure what to recommend for the back panels. Silicone caulk isn't going to be super durable though.

Thanks!

This: Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KNelzbNETSX7V

Versus this: Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEMZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YMelzb052MTNF

Which do you recommend?

These are some of my favorite places to shop online (not necessarily in this order). There is also Amazon for some parts like this.

Rockauto.com

SummitRacing.com

LMCTruck.com

ClassicParts.com

Monster transmission.com

Jegs.com

Ingersoll Rand makes pretty decent 1/2" impacts in the $200 range. An 8-15 Gallon Air Compressor is going to run you $250-400

If you don't want air you can get something like this

All my research says that's the absolute best CB radio. It's a bit big for my personal taste though.

What do you think of this one?

Midland CB Radio

Replace the emblem

bearfire 2005-2014 Ford F150 Dark Blue Oval 9" X 3.5" Front Grille Replacement Badge Emblem Medallion Name Plate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWV7YJB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sxVMDbB6YNBXS

Get your windows tinted (pay the extra for ceramic)

Upgrade speakers / head unit

Get caught up on maintenance

Enjoy it for what it is, a reliable full size pickup

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BOCAK8/ :)

https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y

That or a different brand.

Did you ever see the [Collectors Edition] (http://www.amazon.com/Invader-ZIM-House-Complete-Vols/dp/B00069A6WC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398300643&sr=8-1&keywords=invader+zim+collectors+house)?

What about this https://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-12-Volt-Fleece-Heated-Blanket/dp/B0009Y2CFS

> 3M trim adhesive

This kind? https://www.amazon.com/3M-03601-Plastic-Emblem-Adhesive/dp/B000CCM3J2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506602417&sr=8-3&keywords=3M+trim+adhesive

I'll stick to my skyrack, won't bump your head this way.

https://www.amazon.com/Big-Sky-SBR-2G-Rack-2-Gun/dp/B000NDPZYK

Lisle 13250 oil pressure switch socket

> Splice them into your trailer wiring

That's what I did. I went up about 4" from the 7-pin plug, cut the necessary wires, used uninsulated butt connectors with a closed-barrel crimper and adhesive-lined heat shrink to splice in a 6-pin Deutsch DT connector pigtail, then built my own wiring harness that plugs into the Deutsch connector and ran it up to the headache rack.

Went with the 6-pin Deutsch connector since I only needed 5 of the 7 wires (LT, RT, Tail, Backup, and Ground) and 5-pin Deutsch connectors aren't available. Deutsch DT connectors are frequently used in the automotive aftermarket (probably more so than Delphi Weatherpack connectors). I know Rigid Industries uses them for their LED lights, and Smith Race Wire uses them for parts of their custom wiring harnesses.

Also, since you can only close-barrel crimp one end of the uninsulated butt connectors, I chose to close-barrel crimp the side that had only one wire (since closed-barrel crimping is more secure, and the one wire was looser in the connector) and used Channel Lock 909 Pliers to crimp the end with two wires.

Once you made your harness, make sure you slip it into some split wiring loom. Using a loom insertion tool makes quick work of that. Wrap the wiring loom with non-adhesive dry vinyl tape for a factory-finished look and to avoid a gooey, sticky mess in case you need to unwrap the wiring harness in the future.

Finally, a good wire stripper will save your hands a lot of fatigue compared to using a standard wire stripper that you have to always pull the wire through.