Top products from r/Tyranids

We found 16 product mentions on r/Tyranids. We ranked the 14 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/Tyranids:

u/routesaroundit · 8 pointsr/Tyranids

> Is there any reason to take Hormagaunts over Genestealers?

When having more bodies on the table and tying up enemy units in melee is a greater consideration than just killing units outright.

This is a rare situation lol. Killing is good. But there are some fringe cases... for example, you're playing Hive Fleet Behemoth rules and you want to use their unique stratagem (Brute Force, which basically has a 16% chance to deal a mortal wound for each friendly model that makes it into close combat) and you need to bring down something with a strong invul save (so like... Mortarian, or Guilliman, or somebody) and your only option is to drown it in low quality bodies.

In those cases it might be more useful to just have a fucking gargantuan amount of Hormagaunts.

But in 99% of situations, Genestealer spam is superior, for the points.

> I'd like to use florescent dye on my 'nids, so they glow-in-the-dark. Is this viable; If so, how would I go about it (mix the dye with the paint? Apply it as a gloss?); & what should I use to do so, specifically?

I haven't messed with this myself but I would assume if it is of a compatible material it should be mixable. Is the dye acrylic? Most miniature paints are acrylic.

> * Any painting/modelling tips you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Make a wet palette, learn the difference between priming/basing/layering/washing/highlighting/drybrushing, get a drybrush, get a base coating brush, get a fine detail brush.... then once you figure out what you're doing and you're ready to REALLY detail some fine detail, graduate to a Windsor & Newton Series 7 sable hair detail brush... sable hair is so much better at holding a fine point and stays moist longer.

Also, invest in a tub of brush cleaner:

It's cheap and lasts forever, just get your brush wet, brush it back and forth on the top of the block o' soap, get the soap all massaged into the bristles, and rinse with room temp water. Repeat until the bristles are nice and silky smooth.

Never get paint in the ferrule (the part where the bristles join with the rest of the brush). Never get any sort of chemicals in there either, like isopropyl alcohol or even soap if you can manage. Cheaper brushes use weak glues and soap could dissolve them - probably not an issue on a Windsor & Newton brush, but you don't want to take the risk. Just be in the habit of only immersing brushes in things-other-than-water up to the ferrule, never past it.

Water in the ferrule is fine and should not be a problem. Always rinse your brushes when you're finished painting for the day, dried paint will fuck your brushes up over time.

Decide on a paint scheme and then paint your SMALL models first! Do all your learning on the little dudes that nobody is looking at on the table lol. Then once you've built your skill up, do the big impressive looking monsters. When you have 30 Hormagaunts all climbing over each other to get to the enemy, they can look like absolute shit individually but as a horde they look awesome as long as you have them all painted identically. The uniformity is what makes them pop. But when you have one single monster by itself, people look very closely at that and technique is more important.

Paint your swarms in batches. Prime all 30 Hormagaunts. Wait till the next day. Base coat all 30 Hormagaunts. Wait a day. Layer the Hormagaunts' carapace. Etc. Do one step for 30 models, not 30 steps for one model. This prevents a lot of logistical bullshit like running out of space on your wet palette.

Most importantly, make "om nom nom nom" noises when finishing off enemy units.

u/InquisitorJames · 1 pointr/Tyranids

This is the one I use, it's a good starter set with a decent brush and compressor.

It can get a bit pricey to start up though, you'll want to get airbrush thinner (I use Vallejos), and I cannot reccomend dropper bottles enough over the pots citadel paints come in. Not just for airbrushing but just day to day painting is made so much easier.

You can get really great quality ones for like 38 cents each shipping is a little expensive though.

Another great thing is you can run vallejo primer straight through an airbrush too and never have to deal with rattle cans or accidental shitty prime jobs again.

u/dowlingfu · 1 pointr/Tyranids
This is the brush I use. Its cheap and synthetic but works perfectly. Cheap enough I hope so you don't need to wreck an old brush

u/sharkeyx · 2 pointsr/Tyranids

Testor's dull coat, after you're done painting and before you put any flock/grass/ w/e down (as it will weight it down and can look bad), just spray them like you would with priming them (short bursts from a distance). Let that set overnight and make sure to do this outside and/or in a well ventilated area as it has a strong odor that will linger. If you have to do it outside, leave them outside for at least half an hour and you'll be good to bring them in with minimal odor to finish curing.


After that you can put down any grass/flock on the base.


One caveat, if you have a lot of metallics on your guys this will be dulling them (this is matte after all), so gotta weigh durability with shinyness for if you want to varnish them. I usually still do for miniature games like this, as things bump a lot over time and are handled a bunch. The metallics are still metallics and show, just not as nicely as they did before varnish.

u/sunducksf · 1 pointr/Tyranids

I'm in the same boat! Agree with the consensus that it's not critical for every model all the time, but definitely things like carnifexes that just have so many options. I went with this Amazon listing.

MagNetSol Magnets Combo Pack Miniatures (Qty 300 Magnets - 3 sizes, 3 Drill Bits)

u/NeroSkwid · 1 pointr/Tyranids

Thanks! It’s a frost wyrm from reaper miniatures. It’s like 15 USD or so.

u/target_meet_arrow · 1 pointr/Tyranids

I think they are called salon style sanders. I think I got it in a modelling kit from Amazon

I think this is the kit that had it.

Or you could just get a Dremel with variable speeds but I found them to be a bit too powerful.

u/i86o · 1 pointr/Tyranids

Been looking at these movement trans. Haven’t decided what looks most useful. I’m keen on these atm but ya e no experience using them.

Horde Tray Set, 5-man 25mm Circle (Set of 8)

u/22cthulu · 1 pointr/Tyranids

A Dewalt Toolchest I picked up from Home Depot on sale for $25, then craft foam from Micheals, roughly cut to fit the big models, adn some cheap troop foam for gants and genestealers.

All together I spent about $65 on it, and the most expensive part was the the foam for my troops.

u/heathenyak · 1 pointr/Tyranids

I put the smaller models in the trays and the bigger ones up top separated by terrain and my dice bag

Plano 1374 4-By Rack System 3700 Size Tackle Box

I have 2 of these plus a 5 drawer plastic organizer for models I’m not taking anywhere. Not that I’ve played since 2nd edition but...just in case...

u/vrekais · 6 pointsr/Tyranids

Here's my Cantilever Toolbox Case,

It's a 17" Cantilever Steel Tool Box from Amazon (~£28)

I've used 5mm N35 Magnets (~£8) for the Larger models in the deeper bottom section, the Trygon has 3 of these an is actually magnetised to the side at 90°.

The smaller models aren't all magnetised, about 12 of the Gaunts (6 in each tray) and 6 Genestealers have 3mm N35 magnets (~£5). I've placed these 6 in the centre and they hold the models behind in pretty well.

Currently pictured in the case I have 1472 points, odd number because I haven't bought and assembled the last bits of my 1750 list. A second Tyrant, 3 more Warriors and I've got 2 more Rippers to add in to bring those to 4 Rippers per unit. I don't foresee that being a problem and I'll likely still have 2 upper trays entirely empty. Easily build up to 2000 on more Gaunts and Genestealers. The centra section is almost exactly a Hive Tyrant in depth.

Not including super glue, whole thing has cost me about £41, I still have half my magnets left for more models at least. It's not perfectly safe, the models can move unlike in foam so sudden deceleration from a drop will overwhelm the magnets and cause some to model to move inside the case. I think I'd struggle to crush them though. Thought I'd share the idea, see what people think.


(I shared this a while ago and just recycled the post)

DId you glue the wings to you Hive Tyrant? Not sure if it'd fit even lying down in this box, might struggle to find a case it would fit in. If the wings are magentised though it'll fit fine.