Top products from r/Ubiquiti

Boy, Ubiquiti sure doesn't make it easy for the average home user/consumer to get a grasp on their products and offerings. I fumbled my way into a similar situation as yourself, perhaps bits of my ramblings will be helpful for you. I started off with a trusty little ER-X, fully planning to outgrow that little device within a matter of months. That did NOT happen, as it's quite a capable router for the $49 I invested in it. It even handled load-balancing dual WAN connections without breaking a sweat. And there's a PoE passthrough for pairing the router with a wireless access point. After being so thrilled with the ER-X, I decided it was time to bring our wireless capabilities into the 21st century and ended up going with a UAP-AC-LR, which has continued to serve us well over the past ~18+ months, or so. I was getting consistent remarks on just how great the WiFi was all of a sudden after deploying that lovely little UFO shaped device. Do yourself a favor and avoid the CloudKey, unless you have a very specific use-case / need for it. There's dozens of ways to run a UniFi Controller that are both cheaper (free?) and better, IMO. If you just have the single access point (I only have the one) you could potentially even stand it up simply by using the UniFi mobile app to set it and forget it. It only needs to run when you want to make modifications, or changes to your setup, but the options are immense. You can even run the software on your desktop PC, pretty much whatever you have on hand will suffice.

In an effort to give a somewhat complete run-down of your options, there's another line of products, where many folks prefer to go with a pure UniFi setup. The USG is on par with the ER-X, but it's twice the cost with less power and less features. The only added bonus is that you get to manage it from the same menu/interface as your access point(s), so your metrics and charts will fill out more and look a bit prettier, but how often do you really sit around and look at how much data your network devices are pulling? I still prefer the EdgeMAX dashboard over the UniFi Controller interface, especially considering the fact that I'm not wholly convinced the values are particularly accurate, so it may be of little value if that's something you actually need for your use-case, rather than just a pretty toy to view. Hope some of this helps, if you have further questions, please ask away! Below I'll list the absolute bare-bones, budget-conscious way to get into an incredibly stable home network setup, from my experiences. I only recently upgraded my Edgerouter-X with an Edgerouter 12 from the Early Release store, and today is the day my upgraded fiber package gets flipped on. Goodbye 100Mbps, hello Gbps! Sadly, not symmetrical... but that's for another time and place. Best of luck with your decision(s). I swear by my little "hybrid" network with the Edgerouter at the core and the UniFi access point (i've since added a mish-mash of switches, but unless you have a large need for ethernet connected devices, the ER-X should be plenty to get you going. This TP-Link was the absolute cheapest "managed" (smart) switch I could find in my research. I'm not quite sold on the UniFi switches, but I often wish I owned an Edgeswitch Lite, but someday I'll learn more than just the basics of the used Cisco SG300-20 i picked up to be the "core" switch of my network. Both the ER-X and ER12 have the added bonus of built in switching chips, so you get the best of both worlds which gives you quite a bit of flexibility in a home/lab environment.

TL;DR -- Edgerouter-X paired with UAP-AC-Lite with the UniFi Controller software running on pretty much whatever you have on hand (RPi, Google Cloud Compute, AWS, any old PC, etc.) and you will have a rock-solid network core with dreamy WiFi that'll get you compliments for weeks, if not months from your significant other and/or housemate(s).

Alright, here we go:

PLANNING

You mainly need to figure out how many cables you need and where you'll run them to. Obviously you'll need one to each location of an AP or camera, so you need to figure out how many you'll run to jacks for connecting Ethernet devices. The bare minimum is one to each TV location and desk location, in this case you'll connect a switch to the jack if you need to connect more than one device. The ideal number is five to your main entertainment center, and two to every other TV location and desk location. This hopefully eliminates the need for secondary switches. In addition, you should run one Coaxial cable to each TV location including your main entertainment center. Add up all the Ethernet cables you'll be running, and keep this number in mind.

As for the network hub location, the best place for it is the basement, preferably an unfinished part of it near the entry point of your internet service. If you don't have a basement, use a utility room. Just make sure it has some sort of ventilation, you don't want stuff getting too hot.

EQUIPMENT

For the actual Ethernet cable, you'll want to get a 1000 foot bulk spool. Get pure copper rather than copper clad aluminum (CCA) and solid conductors rather than stranded. It needs to be riser rated (pretty much any will be) but plenum rating is pointless unless you'll be running it through air ducts. Your big choice here is the category rating: Cat5e or Cat6. Cat5e is good for gigabit, Cat6 will future-proof you for 10 gigabit. Cat6 is more expensive, thicker, and trickier to terminate as the spec only allows a quarter inch of untwisting rather than Cat5e's half an inch.

Keeping in mind the number of wires you plan on running, you'll need a punch-down patch panel with at least that many ports that matches the category rating of your cable. You'll also need punch-down keystone jacks, these also need to match the category rating of your cable. You won't need them for cables going to cameras or APs, you'll just need one for each other cable. For each location where you'll be installing jacks, you'll need a single gang old work low voltage bracket (or a surface-mount box), and a keystone wallplate. Six ports for the main entertainment center, three for each other TV location, two for each desk location. You'll also want a keystone coaxial coupler for each TV location including the main entertainment center.

You have another big choice to make for the main switch, a managed PoE switch or a dumb unmanaged switch. The managed PoE switch will simplify things a lot as it'll power your cameras and APs, while with an unmanaged switch you'll need to use PoE injectors. A managed PoE switch will, predictably, be much more expensive. Either way, you'll ideally want one with at least as many ports as the total number of Ethernet cables you'll planning to install, plus one for the router. You can get one with fewer ports, but then you won't be able to connect all your cables to it at once, you'll need to just connect the ones you're currently using. If you'll be going with a managed PoE switch, get one of these UniFi switches: 8-port with 4 PoE, 8-port with all PoE, 16-port, 24-port, or 48-port. If you'll be getting an unmanaged switch, any is fine. Just make sure it's gigabit. I used this one in my previous house, for example.

For the router, you'll want the UniFi Security Gateway.

You've got another big choice to make for the APs: Lite or Pro. The main difference is that the Lite has two 5 GHz streams, while the Pro has three. Only high-end devices like Macbook Pros have 3-stream Wi-Fi hardware, so if you don't have any devices with this, the Pro won't give you any benefit. Also, since the Lite is cheaper you can get more of them for the money, as more APs rather than better ones is the best thing you can do to improve your Wi-Fi. Both of these are available in single-packs and 5-packs, the single packs include PoE injectors but the 5-packs don't. If you're getting a PoE switch, consider getting a 5-pack of Lites.

You'll need something to run the UniFi controller. This is the software that you use to manage all the UniFi gear in one place. The easiest thing to do is install it on an Ethernet-connected PC and just run it when you need to make changes or update firmware. If you want a dedicated device for running it all the time, you can use a Raspberry Pi or Cloud Key. The Cloud Key is PoE-powered, so it's particularly convenient if you have a PoE switch.

You'll also need a few RJ45 plugs for the AP and camera cables, a crimping tool for them, a 110 impact punch down tool for doing your jack and patch panel terminations, and something to strip the cable jacket. Normally this will be built into the crimper.

Lastly, you'll need a lot of pre-made Ethernet patch cables to connect everything in your network hub. Get ones that are as short as possible, 1-3 feet. You'll need one to connect each cable you've installed from the patch panel to the switch, one for connecting the switch to the router, and another for connecting the router to the modem/ONT (this one may need to be longer). If you'll be using any PoE injectors, you'll need an additional cable for each one. You could make all these yourself, but this is very tedious and time-consuming, and hard to get right. The wires need to be in the right order and all 8 need to be connected for gigabit to work. Lastly, you'll need one for each actual Ethernet device you currently have, these should be 6 feet or longer if necessary.

INSTALLATION AND SETUP

The first thing to do is run all the cables. Camera and AP lines go to the device's location and get an RJ45 plug, all the others go to a keystone jack box/bracket/faceplate. Whenever possible, leave a foot of slack at both ends in case you need to re-do terminations. I like to terminate each cable after I run it, as it makes things easier to keep track of. For all the jacks, note the port number of the cable at the patch panel, and write that same number on the faceplate next to the jack. When you do the terminations, make sure to untwist the wire as little as possible, particularly if you're using Cat6.

For the APs, install the ceiling mount bracket using the included hardware, connect the cable to the AP, and then just put the AP on the bracket and twist it to lock it in place.

At the network hub, first hook up any PoE injectors you'll be using. Connect the patch panel port for the AP/camera cable to the injector's PoE port, and connect the injector's LAN port to the switch. Plug the injector into an outlet. Now connect the rest of the patch panel's ports to the switch, or if you have a smaller switch just connect the ones you're currently using. Connect the USG's LAN port to the switch, and its WAN port to your modem/ONT. Make sure your APs are getting power, their ring light will be white if they are.

Now, open the UniFi Controller (wherever you have it set up) and go to the Devices page. Adopt everything, and update everything's firmware. Go through it and set up everything the way you like. All the UniFi devices will light up blue once adopted and configured.

Yeah, I bet I know what happened. I'm guessing you probably don't want to wait around on Comcast to fix this? Comcast's tap down at the road is probably fine but there's a decent chance that the lightning fried a splitter in your house. Does Comcast lock the house box in your area? It's your wiring, and you're on the hook for anything that happens to it, but some cable companies are douches and will try to keep you out of the house box. Open up that box and you'll see two things, the cable from the street goes into a device that grounds the outside and connects with a copper wire to the ground rod for your electric service, and a splitter or two hooking up to all of the outlets around your house. With any luck, those two things will be separate, that'll make it simpler. The splitter can be used as a ground block, and there's nothing wrong with that, but we want a separate ground block so we can use a lightning arrestor.

As for the lightning arrestor, TII makes a good one. Really you just want to grab one of the gas tube lightning arrestors, and make sure it's one that has a ground connection on it, not one that just uses the jacket for a ground. This is what you'll probably see grounding your cable right now, you basically just replace this device with the lightning arrestor.

As for the splitter, you may find one, you might have 2 or 3, it depends on the house and how it was set up. You probably have a failed splitter, it's pretty simple to replace but make sure that you replace any splitters with the exact same type of splitter that it had originally. So if there's 2 2 way splitters, don't just replace it with a 3 way splitter and call it good. You want to keep the signal levels where they're currently at. Each splitter essentially splits the incoming signal evenly across the ports so when it was set up the cable installer might have set it up such that your internet connection is on the line that goes straight to a 2 way splitter connected back to the ground block with any TVs hooked up to a 4 way splitter under that 2 way splitter. For TV, you don't have to worry about signal strength balancing too much unless you have like 8 or 10 outlets all around your house, in which case you would probably need an amplifier. The important thing is that your internet connection needs to get the same amount of signal that it's getting now. So if it's getting 25%, less could cause service issues. Counterintuitively, more signal could also cause service issues, just keep it the same, because getting it right might not be easy to measure with your modem and it's more complicated. Just look in the box and go to Lowes or Home Depot or something like that and get an identical splitter. You don't have satellite so as long as the splitter is good for 5MHz to 1000MHz you're fine.

Also, you need all of this to be weatherproof and while the enclosure will keep out rain it won't keep out all moisture. If you take any weather seals off the old splitter or ground block, put them back on the new splitter exactly how you took them off. If the splitter is currently being used as a ground block, you'll need to separate this out to put in the lightning arrestor so don't forget that you need another short coax cable. Make sure it's at least RG-6 and don't just grab a long one, it's not going to fit, You want something real short like just 6 inches. Unfortunately, you're going to have a tough time finding a tiny coax cable since pretty much no one ever needs them. What the professionals do is just make the cable, it's really quite easy once you get the hang of it, and usefull if you ever want to do stuff like add an outlet in a particular room without having to pay an arm and a leg to Comcast or someone else. If you want to make your own cables, you need the tools to do so. Don't get any crimp on tools, they're garbage connectors and they'll frequently pull right out. All of the professionals just use compression connectors, they're only a little pricier, but they actually make a decent termination which is never going to happen with crimp connectors. You need a compression tool, a coax stripper (not strictly necessary, but if you're doing more than a single connection it's totally worth it), and some decent sidecutters or linesman pliers, or even just any old wire stripper. So long as you aren't just trying to use some kitchen scissors it'll work fine. Then for the cable itself you can buy a spool of RG-6 for ~$30 and then just make sure that whatever compression connectors you get are made for the cable you're using so don't try to use regular RG-6 connectors for quad shielded RG-6. Also, you can get quad shielded RG-6, it's better for noise, but I'd recommend against it, certainly if you've never messed with coax before. You'd also need a special tool to prep the cable with quad shielded RG-6 whereas it's just optional with regular RG-6. Really it's optional with quad shielded, but it's such a pain that I wouldn't want to deal with it without it.

Really what it boils down to is that first, replace the busted splitter or call Comcast to do it. Then replace the ground block with a lightning arrestor and if you need a 6" cable, just buy it off Amazon if you don't want to learn how to install coax elsewhere in your house as well. There's also the chance that Comcast's equipment fried so you might wanna just say screw it, call Comcast and have them fix the busted splitter or their equipment.

>I recently moved to a new home and now have gigE internet service. Unfortunately, my old router and WAP can't handle the speed (Wireless-N Airport Extreme). To fix this, I about a TP-Link Archer C7, and I'm still not seeing the speeds that I want, but I'm still not happy with my performance.

Awesome. You made my shitlist of people I'm jealous of. lol Except that extreme router. lol


>When I connect the modem directly to my computer, I'm seeing 980 Mbps.


Seems about right.

>When the Aiport Extreme

Gonna stop you right there. Throw that thing away and bury it at a crossroads at midnight.

>and separate gigabit switch are involved, I'm seeing about 250 Mbps,

Exactly.

>and with the Archer C7 and gigabit switch, I'm seeing about 780 Mbps down.

rubs eyes How is that possible?


>So, I'm looking to take the Archer C7 back

Good!

>in favor of a USG and Unifi WAP. On average, what speeds should I expect from a USG?

I know I'm gatekeeping lol but it's A.P. The wireless is implied. This is where the questions start however.

1. What sort of modem do you have?
   
2. Does your ISP support direct fiber hand-off?
   
3. What sort of budget are you playing with?
   
   >I need 1300 square feet of WiFi coverage.
   
   You need unifi mesh to make things less labor intense. That or two unifi AC pros for solid coverage. You can get away with one (placed in the center most part of your home) if you absolutely had to do without.
   
   
   You'll also need the following:
   
   
4. 10Gtek for Ubiquiti SFP+ Direct Attach Copper Cable x 2 (you can return the second one later
   
5. Unifi Key
   
6. Ubiquiti SFP Module
   
   
   
   
   The concept is. You either buy a Ubiquiti Edge Router 4 / a Unifi Security Gateway with an SFP WAN. and have the ISP give you a direct fiber hand off and use one of the copper GTEK SFP patch cables to patch you over to a unifi / ubiquiti switch (please make sure this is either POE / not). This is a cost consideration. Hook your AP to the boona end of the switch and presto blamo you have just shy of a 1 gig internet access internally.
   
   
   Good luck! Comment if you have any questions.

That link is NOT the UAP-AC-Pro. It's the older UAP-Pro, which is an 802.11n only product. You do NOT want that one.

You want this one: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/

That's the new UAP-AC-Pro. It's $130ish. It supports 802.11ac (3x3 antennas) and true 802.3af PoE.

The UAP-AC-Lite is around $80ish as I recall. It also supports 802.11ac but with only 2x2 antennas, and it uses special 24v passive PoE so you have to use the Ubiquiti injector or a special Ubiquiti switch.

The difference between real PoE and passive PoE is that real 802.3af PoE has a handshake sequence for safety. When you plug an 802.3af device into a compatible switch, the device signals that it needs PoE power and then the power flow is turned on. This prevents damage to non-PoE devices.

Passive PoE just means that power is sent down the line without consideration for what's on the other end. If you plug a non-PoE device into a Passive PoE port, that non-PoE device will receive PoE and will usually be damaged or destroyed as a result.

Please note that the injectors included with either device are passive. IE, the UAP-AC-Pro's included injector is JUST an injector, no handshake.

The best way to do things is to get a real PoE switch like a Ubiquiti US-8-150W or a Netgear GS110TP, and the Ubiquiti UAP-AC-Pro.

However if this is the only PoE device that you have or will have, then you're fine to just buy the Lite and use the power injector... just be careful which port goes where :)

Just to clarify, you're powering it over PoE? I'm new to RPi...so forgive me. Are you using "The Hat" or something like this. The latter seems like a better, cheaper & easier solution to me.

Using any particular distro? Or just plain old Raspbian? And how are you viewing that on the RPi? Just browser session in full screen? RTSP via VLC or some equivalent?

Our office is offsite from this location (accessible over our private WAN though), so would like some ability remote in and troubleshoot if the feed is down or not displaying properly. I'm assuming VNC would be OK for that unless there's a more elegant solution.

Thanks a lot for your reply. That's a lot of info that I need to digest. Please allow me to ask you some more questions.

> All the X models internally are essentially a single-port router with a switch hanging off.

I thought that's what all routers do. In my understanding, a router takes the internet through a cable in the WAN port and then route it to its LAN ports (please correct me if I'm wrong, that's what I thought after reading info online). And I thought switch is only needed when you need more ports than the router provides. Am I completely wrong here. So how does the non-X models work?

> For most purposes most users won't notice or care, but it you want to be able to upload and download 1 Gb/s at the same time another model is needed.

I probably won't. But the purpose of going Ubiquiti for me was to buy, set and forget. I like learning all this but I definitely don't want to tinker with my network every year. So I want to get the gear that can utilize all of my internet speed. After all we are already paying for it.

> I'd recommend the ER-4 over the ERLite-3. If an ER-X is ok, I'd recommend the ER-10X over it

I am so confounded now. I do not possess enough knowledge to compare between these routers. Could you please tell me why ER-4 is better than ERLite-3? And when you say ERLite-3, are you referring to this where 3 refers to the number of ports? And ER-10X just seems to have a lot more ports to me. But I will probably never use more than 3 ports.

> console port, which comes in super handy for avoiding a reset if you mess up the config, but also there's double the RAM / flash and more Ethernet ports.

Sorry for keeping asking stupid questions, but what is a console port? Why can it avoid reset? And why do I need that much RAM on a router, so that it can route better (in my understanding, route means to give the best internet speed to connected client, am I wrong again?)?

> there's only one offload mode and there's the switch to configure.

What offload mode? Do you mean the hardware offload mode? And what is "the switch"?

Thank you so much.

Thanks for this question!

I will be fixing up the wifi at a 24-hour coffee and pastry shop in the next few weeks. They are currently using the UAP you linked first, and probably 30-40 concurrent users maximum at any given time.

It is very problematic as it is. Likely has more to do with improper configuration by the previous IT person, but I will be going with two UAP-AC-LITE antennae due to budget constraints.

Good luck! Hope it works out nicely.

Could you look over these parts and let me know if I'm missing anything? Would I just be monitoring this stuff at my desktop that's wired in or would I need something else to control all this? I'm not sure on which switch I need.

Fiber connection>Gateway/Router> Switch 1 or Switch 2 > ethernet > AP

I am being pushed towards the in wall AP cause the fiance doesn't like things poking out from our ceiling and I was told wall mounting them doesn't work as well. From looking on their forums the UAP-AC-IW-PRO beta testers have said they are getting surprisingly good signal from their in wall AP since they have better antennas. But if I was able to go the UAP-AC-PRO route ceiling mounted how many and where would you suggest I place them?

So this is my home layout. I assumed these were the best places to put them. The red arrows show which direction the AP will be facing from the wall and the blue box is where everything terminates and I'm assuming that's where the gateway and switches will be. The ethernet drops in the living room and game room are higher up then the rest. I can have an updated picture of where all the ethernet drops are around my house if that would help.

The bedrooms near the front of the house aren't currently being used so I'm not to focused on them but I could always go back and add another AP later in that area right?

This seems like it's going to blow through my $500 budget but I'm assuming it's worth it over getting something like the Eero 2nd generation?

The USG does not operate like a switch - LAN 1 and 2 are treated as completely separate networks, so devices on each will not be able to see each other without some fancy firewall rules. I would recommend some sort of switch instead, not necessarily one from Ubiquiti. The benefit of the Unifi switch is that it is managed (can be programmed) with power to 4 devices. A regular switch will be fine too, as long as you use the PoE injectors that come with the APs.

Here's the switch I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU3WUX1/

Any of these would work - some provide power, and I'd recommend a 1000 Gbps switch: https://www.amazon.com/s/node=281414

A controller is only needed if you want to make any changes to your network, such as the WiFi name or passwords, or if you want to view some of the network statistics. It is also used to run the guest networking portal.

You can use the free controller download if you only plan on making the initial configuration and don't want anything else. If you plan on a guest network, statistics, or make changes often, a cloud key would be good to have.

I've used a bunch of different DACs including this one.

What I'd say is that compatibility has improved, and most DACs at 1m are working. it's when you get above 1m where you get into trouble.

I also have a bunch of ConnectX-2 Mellanox and also Chelsio NICs working fine with cheap Finsivar transceivers i got for like $7 each off ebay.

Also got a 1Gbit transceiver working on it fine as a uplink to my gigabit switch. The trick with getting 1Gbit transceivers to work is to manually set the link to 1Gbit.

I got the switch in beta and it's working great. Only thing buggy is that only two of the 4 BASE-T copper ports work well for me, but that's fine for me, I got it for the SFP+ ports anyways. Super cheap Connect-X2 NICs available.

Excuse the ignorance but what is the advantage of this switch over something like TP-Link 8-Port Gigabit PoE Web Managed Easy Smart Switch with 4-PoE Ports (TL-SG108PE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dF9mybDG17P48?

In addition what is the difference once this switch compared to another one of ubiquitis switches? Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZG9myb310YM0B

Curiosity got the better of me and i found a few non-managed PoE switches: they usually seem to have some fixed number of PoE and some non-PoE ports. You might as well pay a bit more and get basic management, or step up to something like the US-8-60W for really not much more. Any of those options assume only 802.3af compatible access points though...

And yes, pretty much every other managed UniFi switch currently made has 24v PoE except the US-8-60W, I just mentioned that one one as it is by far the cheapest one they make. That one doesn't work for the Unifi-HD or SHD either as it's only 802.3af not af+, or I'd own one.

moca is the answer. I was all EoP but needed to get top speed to a second building ~200ft away and these moca adapters worked awesome with easily 500mbps.


Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Looking pretty darn good if it has basic diagnostics like the ones I don't see with these (Just "?" for temperature, etc...) when I hover over: https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-Compatible-SFP-GE-T-Transceiver-1000Base-T/dp/B00U77IJ2M

Just get an actiontec moca adapter. I used those for friends who don't use TiVo. I'm pretty sure the class 2 moca's are out.

Yup:
Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter (ECB6200S02) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7EfVzbF8KSJMP

I know there are some power strips with coax connections to help with surge. I don't know how well they work as I don't use a cable provider for my internet. The optimal solution is to use a media converter to convert the cable link to a fiber connection and either input that into your network or convert back to Ethernet. If you are replacing your ERL then look at the Edgerouter X SFP. You could use this to separate the connection between the modem and your router with the addition of a media converter.

Edit: There are these that might help with the circuit entering the house. You have to connect them to your home ground connection but they are suppose to help.

I haven't done it myself, but my understanding is what you would do is set up the ubiquiti router as your main router connected to the Verizon ONT via ethernet. You would need a number of MOCA bridges to connect the ethernet from your ubiquiti router to your coax runs for the TV (here's an example MOCA bridge). I'd suggest having a separate switch to handle the MOCA bridges just to keep it all segregated (and potentially VLAN'd off). That should get you what you're after (but again, I have not personally done this nor have I really looked into it in great detail).

You can also get a SFP Copper adapter that gives you a "normal" RJ45 jack, obviously much more expensive, but the patch cable is then a normal $1 cable: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Cisco-SFP-GE-T-Compatible-1000Base-T/dp/B007UR0CZE

Personally, I would just buy some 10G DACs like this one: https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-SFP-H10GB-CU1M-10GBASE-CU-Passive-1-Meter/dp/B01LSGGUOY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=V68X5W7E0794MPDYGRY8&th=1

Those DACs are what I use to "stack" switches, including both 48-ports and 24-ports. Keeping a single DAC for 1G and 10G makes life easier and leaves an upgrade path for the future.

I recently upgraded to their 24-port PoE switch and I'm very happy with it. It's powering my now 3 UAP's & cloud key, as well as two raspberry pi's that I run pi-hole on. (I'm using these to provide power to the rasperry pi's). Aside from the cleaner wiring, it's also very handy for getting more insight into your network traffic, etc.

I suggest splurging on a decent UPS. Not only will it have surge protection, but allow the devices to be shut down without data corruption or loss. UPS's also clean the electric up by taking the jitter (peaks and troughs) out and leveling the signal. Thus easier on the devices.

You can even buy them with rg6/59 surge protection.They make inline ones. https://www.amazon.com/TII-Broadband-Cable-Lightning-Protector/dp/B0016AIYU6

I have a UDM-Pro on the way as well with a US-24-500W I'll be connecting it to. I couldn't find ANY SFP (non-plus) jumpers to go between the two, since the US-24-500W only has SFP ports. I instead ordered these to create a short jumper between the two:

https://www.amazon.com/U-Fiber-Multi-Mode-SFP-1G/dp/B01MY5498F/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=UF-MM-1G&qid=1566242692&s=gateway&sr=8-4


https://www.amazon.com/Meter-Multimode-Duplex-Fiber-Optic/dp/B079G56L38/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=.2m+fiber&qid=1566242724&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Both the UDM-Pro and the items above are coming in tomorrow... Excited to get it all hooked up and going.

u/zeke73

The AP Lites only use 24v, which in my experience means you have to use a Ubiquiti switch. Not all Ubiquiti switches do 24v, either. Some of the smallest ones do not but I believe all the 24 and 48-port models do.

The AP Pros work with 48v, so any switch will work with them.

Ubiquiti also makes an adapter that will go between your switch and your AC Lite and step down the voltage to 24v. I don't know if you can find them elsewhere for less, I just linked to Amazon because they're pretty reliable.

I actually use one of these in my network rack as well as a top-mounted exhaust fan. I have an Anker 5p USB hub that powers one of my smart hubs and then 3 Pi's.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-.2nDbNNNWC2X

I have the UAP-AC-Pro since I can not run wires in my walls.

I tried Powerline adapaters to meh success. I got a MoCA adapter and it works really really well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9Ei1Ab10Y5YFP

I am running a pi hole and use this to power and connect the zero to the POE switch.. Works remarkable well and I think it was about 8 bux when I bought it.

This is the pair that I use, and they work great:
http://amzn.to/2qzR4G1
http://amzn.to/2rzLWAh

I did have some problems with POE with the AP, but after using the POE injector I haven't had a single problem. I think the uptime on my ERX is like 5 months now.

And replace www with smile.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XNRLWCQ/

:)

This would give you a few extra PoE ports to work with in the future: Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fDrTAb3CH10B1

Keep in mind that it’s just a switch, not a router. If you need a router as well and want to stick with Unifi, you get either get an EdgeRouter (a bit daunting for beginners); otherwise you could add the Unifi Security Gateway.

If you really want to go all in, add a CloudKey so you can control your network away from home.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

this one.

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

They were purchased as USB powered but I used an AC adapter so i can run multiple. They are pretty quiet. Needed b/c its in a living room small media cabinet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Aaaah, I didn't know there was a difference. Thank you!

This seems like it might work then.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483646927&sr=8-1&keywords=802.3af%2Fat+switch+unifi

No, the ER-4 will only fit a certain way and it is not flippable to the other side. I recommend using DAC cables for short jumps. That's what you see from eth4 to the 16 port POE switch. It is a 1 meter DAC cable

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LSGGUOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, even the US-8-60W (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU3WUX1/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1) wouldn't do it without the converters I linked earlier, as that can't do 24v.

Good news is that UBNT is moving away from the proprietary 24v moving forward, but in the meantime you need either a 150w+ switch, injectors, or a higher end AP like AP AC Pro, which takes the 802.3af/at standard.

So for your situation I'd consider whether you think you'll need to expand in the future and might want a bigger switch, or if you'd rather stick to a lower budget.

So does this 150w accepts simpler ethernet connection from my router? Anyways, this is 200$ solution. Seems so expensive just for a switch. I was thinking I will get away with something cheaper. If I use 60w 8 port switch with 4 PoE, like this (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-60W-US-8-60W/dp/B01MU3WUX1), can i plug in my non-PoE router in it? I could get 3 cams + cloud key 2 then.

I have a couple of those TRENDnet switches and they work very well. For the price you can't beat them.

Maybe something like this too: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00A121WN6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB

Good question. I am under the impression that a USG does not provide PoE.

Thanks is that the only way or would this cable work?
10G SFP+ Cable 0.5-Meter Passive Direct Attach Copper Twinax Cable (DAC) for Cisco SFP-H10GB-CU0.5M, Ubiquiti, D-Link, Supermicro, Netgear, Mikrotik, ZTE https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XNRLWCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e96SDb9PZAA07

I use something like this. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0016AIYU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aWErDbNVDYS3J

Ground wire from this to the city side of the water pipe. If you're on well water, connect to your electrical panels ground plate/rod.

Something like these?

https://i.imgur.com/LZCmXcS.png

https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-Ubiquiti-UF-RJ45-1G-Transceiver-1000Base-T/dp/B01LW2P72V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sfp+ubiquiti&qid=1556912526&s=electronics&sr=1-3

if i use that on the XG could i just plug the other end of the RJ45 into a RJ45 port on the US-8-150w instead of paying another $21 for a 2nd transceiver?

I just took advantage of NewEgg's sale ($89 each) and bought 2 US-8 switches to replace my non unifi switches. They also had the PoE version of the switch that you want for $99.

Amazon has the USG for $112: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LV8YZLK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$105 with free prime shipping on Amazon

Switches have more than one port. I would still recommend a switch even if most of your devices are wireless.

This is the one that I have. It's $19.99 from amazon. http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6?ie=UTF8&keywords=switch&qid=1465416816&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4

Direct Attach Copper all the way IMO. SFP+ will work with SFP ports just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LSGGUOY/ref=twister_B06XFXVQSD?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

Ubiquiti makes them as well:

https://store.ubnt.com/collections/accessories/products/unifi-direct-attach-copper-cable-10-gbps-1-meter

If you're cheap and not bothered by the aesthetics you can also use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/

Official version: https://store.ui.com/collections/accessories/products/uf-rj45-1g-1

Third party: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW2P72V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_L--7CbKWG7945

TP link makes a cost effective gigabit PoE switch that might meet your needs for about half the price. I think you hit the nail on the head, if you don't need per port utilization, vlans, etc then you don't need to shell out the extra cash. Buy the features you'll actually use.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-8-Port-Gigabit-Switch-4-Port/dp/B01BW0AD1W

It's not like you can manage the edgerouter and US8 from the same pane of glass anyway.

So bought this, which provides 15.4w per port...my revision number is supposed to put me on the AF side of the AP AC Lites...but sure enough, it doesn't power on with this switch https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Unmanaged-Lifetime-TL-SG108PE/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505493494&sr=1-1&keywords=sg108pe

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-802-3AF-POE-Unit-Indoor/dp/B005VSY0KM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420037071&sr=1-6

Why are you putting pie adapters in your ceilings? Put them right by your switch and run just one Ethernet cable to your access point.

Edit: yep, what your link goes to looks right.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG-PRO-4/dp/B019PBEI5W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485190839&sr=8-2&keywords=usg

looks like they fixed it, the product image shows the logo aligned properly

Would something like this work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rUsBCbXEMG70F

Personally, I would just get an RJ45 module, like this one.

If I planned on driving cams, I'd probably go with the bridge between the two buildings.

Two Nanobeams and two AP-AC-PROs would fit the bill and can be had for ~$450 on amazon.


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoBeam-High-Performance-airMAX-NBE-5AC-Gen2-US/dp/B0713XMHH9/
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512

Alternatively, what's between the two buildings? Could you run basic PVC conduit and drop Cat6e between the two?

I think if you connect them all wired, get them configured and then put them where they belong... they'll wirelessly uplink. But I'm not sure and I've never tried it. Performance would also be abysmal.

Do you have coax in your house? If so, you could make a MOCA network and get them wired up that way. It'd be way faster and more reliable than a wireless uplink. Something like a [Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013J7O3X0/) might get you what you want.

I don’t believe it’s the pro.

Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oegVCbSF4YWHZ

US Amazon store has them in stock: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG-PRO-4/dp/B019PBEI5W
Newegg has them in stock:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3894629112

If you are in Europe, Amazon Germany has them in stock: https://www.amazon.de/Ubiquiti-USG-PRO-4-UniFi-Security-Gateway/dp/B01A9HFTYA

This worked extremely well for me. I have one above and one below the USG.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I use the SFP and SFP+ ports on my UniF switches as regular switch ports...works fine no issues.

Here is the SFP to copper adapter I use: Amazon Link

Here is the SFP+ to copper adapter I use: Amazon Link

Just plug and play.

I've been using these super-cheap 10Gtek ones. I have four of these RJ45s and two of these 1310nm ones I use with a spare bit of FiOS cabling.

I can't believe they're this cheap, but they work flawlessly.

I think it's only a difference of $50, not $120. But personally, the standard POE on the PRO is worth it.
Lite
Pro

Yes, I have a similar setup and use these specifically for my UniFi switches

U Fiber Multi-Mode SFP 1G

and StarTech.com 1m Fiber Optic Cable - Multimode Duplex 62.5/125 - LSZH

It’s a little expensive to connect but does open up additional ports and can be managed similarly.

Yesir Amazon brother

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNRLWCQ/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_1grBDb0C7WPYC

Been using two of these for almost two years. Solid.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Use DACs: they are cheaper, have lower latency, and (mine) need a < 2.5" clearance from the switch faceplate.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XNRLWCQ

I have them on SFP+ ports but people in the (Amazon) comment section are mentioning they are SFP backward compatible and working fine with Ubiquiti switches.

Only the 48 and XG have 10G SFP (SFP+) ports. You could link both ports and aggregate them, but I'm not sure it's worth the extra cost and effort.

That being said, the 10GTek ones on Amazon have worked fine for me.

Edit: Added link.

does this one work? https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-SG108-1000Mbps-Desktop-Gigabit/dp/B00A121WN6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=gigabit+switch&qid=1566402593&s=gateway&sr=8-4

I used this one - same thing, similar vendor, more ports. You always need one more port than you have.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A121WN6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Multi-WAN-TL-ER5120/dp/B006DEBYTI

https://www.amazon.com/SafeStream-TL-R600VPN-Broadband-throughput-Concurrent/dp/B007B60SCG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MY30G24G13BKXR7T1RCD

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-MSS894582I01-UBIQUITI-NETWORKS/dp/B016YJW8K0/ref=sr_1_11?crid=168HG3CMMSCKZ&keywords=ubiquiti+dual+wan+router&qid=1564425858&s=electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+dual+wa%2Celectronics%2C216&sr=1-11

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Edgerouter-SFP-Desktop-ER-X-SFP/dp/B012X45WH6/ref=sr_1_9?crid=168HG3CMMSCKZ&keywords=ubiquiti+dual+wan+router&qid=1564425858&s=electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+dual+wa%2Celectronics%2C216&sr=1-9

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Edgerouter-ERLITE-3-Desktop-Router/dp/B00HXT8EKE/ref=sr_1_5?crid=168HG3CMMSCKZ&keywords=ubiquiti+dual+wan+router&qid=1564425858&s=electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+dual+wa%2Celectronics%2C216&sr=1-5

Get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Edgerouter-ERLITE-3-Desktop-Router/dp/B00HXT8EKE

ISP speed 125/25
Wired
Windows 10 client
What are smartqueues?
This gateway: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK

Actually, it is. Check it out on Amazon.

I used 3 of these. Two in a 48-500w and one in a 24-250w.

https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-Compatible-SFP-GE-T-Transceiver-1000Base-T/dp/B00U77IJ2M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473344324&sr=8-2&keywords=10gtek+sfp

I've used
10Gtek Cisco Compatible GLC-T/ SFP-GE-T Gigabit RJ45 Copper SFP Transceiver Module, 1000Base-T https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U77IJ2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JAVDyb0G4F8VX

This MoCA says it will do 1Gbps

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0

[This one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/)

Probably one of these

I have these:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG-PRO-4/dp/B019PBEI5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538949380&sr=8-1&keywords=usg+pro+4


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-16-150W-UniFi-Switch/dp/B01E46ATQ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538949426&sr=1-1&keywords=us-16-150w+ubiquiti

I'm thinking for $60 I could get a "managed" switch with POE to replace/combine the AP switch and IoT switch, so I can provide PoE to cameras and APs but keep them segregated on their own vlans:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-8-Port-Gigabit-Switch-4-Port/dp/B01BW0AD1W

https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-SFP-H10GB-CU1M-10GBASE-CU-Passive-1-Meter/dp/B01LSGGUOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484091196&sr=8-3&keywords=sfp%2Bcable&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW2P72V/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i use these without issue.

That's what I ordered - the "for Ubiquiti" version of this.

I am using this for powering the Pi over POE:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This fella right here

I ordered that exact same jumper in the same size and I bought the Ubiquiti SFP modules.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY5498F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both arrived today. Just waiting on the UDM-Pro. It's scheduled to be delivered on Thursday

Do you have coax connection on that side of the house by where the Orbi is now?

If so use a Moca adapter such as this
https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0

Then have the ethernet go into a Unifi 8 port switch then have a FlexHD sitting where the Orbi is now.

Also when it comes to FIOS I would go from the ONT right into your USG router. Don't use the FIOS supplied router. If you have FIOS TV leave it plugged in but only with a coax connection then branch off the ONT to the USG.

They get a bit warm. I just added a few fans to aid the circulation a bit in the cabinet. No issues.

I'm just gonna use this. Not as pretty but works.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PR20GY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's still lots of old stock out there. Very possible you still got an older one with 24V passive. It's the same SKU which makes it more confusing. There should be a sticker on the outside of the box if it's an af/at compatible one.

Update To Add I found an Amazon seller that had 8, I ordered one, checked stock and it said 6, as of 5 minutes ago they were down to 1.

Not an affiliate link, no association with seller:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019PBEI5W

Just do two more lite's. The amplifi line isn't as good, and wouldn't integrate into your existing system (and at a higher cost than two more lite's.

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504709151&sr=8-2&keywords=uap-ac-lite

I picked up a little TP Link switch. I just needed something to power/connect the single AP and the CK. A downside of this little switch is that you must use the TP Link software to manage it - no CLI or web interface. I really don't need the management features at this point but they might be handy later.

Regarding the non-standard POE, each UniFi AP comes with a power injector. However, if you have your own POE switches and want to be able to manage power to the UniFis, you can buy one of these ridiculous things.

I got this guy: Ubiquiti Networks UniFi AC Lite AP Enterprise Wi-Fi System (UAP-AC-LITE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_J0mRwbN35JD7T

No idea if he is the new or old model. I was enticed by the sale price, perhaps I should have been wary.

I use one of these on my 16 port switch for UL to keep all 16 ports available for network devices. No issues.

10Gtek for Ubiquiti SFP Transceiver, 1.25 Gigabit RJ45 Copper SFP Module, 1000Base-T
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW2P72V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0yHJAbTJ2R4HX

Ah. I thought the cheaper model wouldn't be better equipped.

I'd blame this then: dpi : enabled


Btw, I found the tip digging through the reams of reviews on Amazon. Maybe there's something in here that would help.

The comments for my X also mentioned that some ports are faster than others.

it's weird, when you put the item in your cart, from your cart, you click on it : I get new price at 88,55$ . looks like ScAm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HXT8EKE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1BMSA46L3MCK9

found these on amazon 7in length

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079G56L38/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A27DUHPPTQX1VZ&psc=1

I guess ill use this SFPs

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY5498F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I’m using this one between my USG-PRO-4 and US-24-POE. No problems.

Easiest option is just to get a pair of MM 1G fiber transceivers:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY5498F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_EYnZCb5X0QM6J

And some MM fiber:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00552PLMK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title#

I got 2 of each (transceivers come in pairs so I ordered 2 sets to aggregate, this of course is optional but mine was for my AP which also can aggregate so I figured why not) to connect my Xg16 to my us-8-150w.

Never had any issues and no warranty worries since they are actual Uniquiti transceivers.

Edit:

Also, technically you could use 10G transceivers (https://www.amazon.com/U-Fiber-Multi-Mode-SFP-10G/dp/B01N0XR1RL/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=ubiquiti+10g&qid=1556930057&s=gateway&sr=8-4#) on the xg16 as some people of mentioned, but I’m not sure why you would since they cost more than twice as much and won’t ever give you an advantage since in most normal situations if you are using 2 sfp+ connections that are close you would just use dac cables anyway.

I'm on my mobile right now, and navigating the ubiquiti site is kind of a pain. Will the ubiquiti 8 60w switch work with the nanobeams?

​

EDIT: Scratch that, I see that switch doesn't support 24v poe.