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sounds pretty similar to mine... at 153k now and engine and tranny seem solid still but working through the misc things that are dying.

I will say I’ve been able to do things a tad bit cheaper... i price things out between fcp euro / IPD and then I check Swede speed for cheaper alternatives if people have tried stuff... I replaced the front wheel bearings on mine with aftermarket wheel bearings for around $150 for both and have had good success. You need a press though - so beware, it was pretty time consuming. I did struts and shocks + brakes that day as well. You can do that a bit cheaper as well - FCP Euro for the front struts with Bilsteins ended up reasonably priced and for the back I got KYBs (KYB 741067 AGX Gas Shock based on mynameideasweretaken recommendations and have been pleased. They say they don’t fit, but they definitely do for AWD V50. They won’t be suitable for powered vehicles though I suspect. Ride height is practically stock with them. All in all it was around $350 for all the struts i believe. I did the strut bearings as well.

Next up is the front axles and lower control arms 😒. Those are pricey. I’m taking a gamble and got afternarket ones on advanced auto parts per a mechanic friends recommendation (he replaced a bunch on P1’s and had good results). Ended up being ~$250 for both. If it turns out poorly I’ll update this though... I just couldn’t quite justify the $1000 fcp wanted for them.

I also had my fan blower motor start clicking the other day... at $300 for the part and a days work of labor (it’s deep within the dash) I was less than thrilled with Swedish wagon. Thankfully it stopped clicking but it’s only a matter of time 😞...

Yeah, I've read far too many frantic forum posts from people with the same sunroof drain problem, I added extensions too.

So far I've used a Shop Vac on the top and it does continue to pull out water, but when I take off the door sill and stuff a few fingers under the carpet the foam is still super soaked and don't see a vac getting it 100% dry.

I bought one of these too (http://www.amazon.com/Barr-FG01K-10-5oz-DampRid-Refresher/dp/B000UGTLWC/ref=pd_sim_hi_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1H8JFV26RJMXSX3GEGXM) and leave it in the car at all times but it's not warm enough yet (and wont be for a few months) to get the kind of evaporation they need to get the moisture into the air from the foam.

Thanks for the help and suggestions!

Thanks for the response.
Perhaps I will go for a smaller downpipe... although I am planning on doing more engine upgrades in the future.
I'm now also thinking of purchasing this magnaflow cat, especially if the stock one is restrictive as you said.
I guess I will also look for a resonator. Any recommendations for a good quality one?
I've got a good shop in mind. Looks like I'll also be bringing the parts!

Ignore the bit about sponges, get a wash mit like this one, it’s $4 and your clear-coat will thank you. Besides, in the long run it’ll be cheaper to treat your paint gently rather than pay for paint correction.

Edit: I’ve been living with a 2002 S80 T6 for a year now, so if you need any info regarding the P2 Volvos, hit me up :)

URGENT here. Get your engine pressure tested to make sure it is not a blown head gasket. I own a 2006 volvo s40 t5 AWD. And I had misfires out the ass for months and I finally found it it was the head gasket. Luckily I know a volvo mechanic personally and he did the head gasket repair for 2,500$. But before you do that I would take each coil and look to see if there is any evidence of arcing (a sort of burnt coloring on the side) that also may cause misfiring) as for cosmetics I put a whole new stereo system in my car including a head unit in the glove box so I can play my own music. Plus I put all new alpine speakers in each door and ran power from the firewall (located behind the glove box) to the trunk for 2 subwoofers. I also put color changing led lights under the dash where the driver and passenger sits, and in the back seat. It pulses to the music http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I04Z7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_FPM4tb13FSX2W . People love it. You can only do the head unit replacement if you don't have the center speaker in the dash( because its all fiber optics). I put new rims on it. And dipped them. I also blacked out my tail lights and spaced out my letters. Heres a picture. http://i.imgur.com/3xEReGG.jpg
I hope this helped. :)

That odometer is fixable with a replacement gear from ipd or Ebay, some clown put copper grease in mine though so I had to replace the whole speedometer. :(

Also, I absolutely recommend the Bentley service manual for this car, it's not perfect but it's the best of the "home manuals" and great for common procedures and torque specs. You can find everything online but having the book is super handy.

The wiring diagrams aren't great (that's its weak point) so I recommend downloading the PDF(s) from here and using them for any wiring woes you may have, they're much more readable.

Here’s the link for those interested. I’m not affiliated with this or anything. Just happy with the purchase and wanted to share

BlingBelle Auto Seat Back Protectors 2 Pack Waterproof Leather Seat Cover for The Back of Your Seat, Car Back Seat Protectors, Backseat Child Kick Guard Seat Saver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NXDCRXD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CUJlDb7SAJYA4

Just replace the FPS by yourself. I did it and it was easy, following the excellent writeup in this thread: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?154495-How-to-Change-your-Fuel-Pressure-Sensor-on-the-T5-engine

You can buy the part from amazon, $56 - http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-FPS18-Pressure/dp/B005F9IZTO

As for Volvo not recalling this identical part on every car? Welcome to Volvo. They don't recall shit. Millions of Volvos have clogged/leaking sunroof drains, stemming from poor design. Volvo straight up refuses to address the issue and has fought a class-action lawsuit tooth and nail.

LEDs are overrated and there are so many bad ones out there. I would recommend these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MAHK4/

They give off a nice white glow. Just make sure to get some new twist socket plugs for each bulb. Should be 4 for the front and 2 for the back.

Another picture.

I actually had this same issue with my 2004.5 S40 [nice to see they fixed it!]. After I added extensions to the hoses I still had to clean out the wetness in the car. You might want to try a couple of things first before taking out the carpet:

1. Rent a Wet/Dry vac. You can usually get them at a Home Depot [don't know if they rent them] or sometimes your local grocery store. They usually have pretty good pull and you may be able to suck out a good bit of the water using that alone.
   
   
2. Dry Packs. If it's warming up a bit for you now it may be possible that the heat in the car is evaporating the water, but it's just locked inside the interior with nowhere to escape. You can put some dry packs in the car and they'll suck the moisture out of the air taking care of it being locked in there.
   
   I didn't have much moisture in my car but it was noticeable as I kept getting frost on my interior windshields during the cold months. I didn't have so much that I tried a Wet/Dry Vac, but I put in some dry packs in when I fixed the hoses and did find water in them after a couple of days. Don't seem to be having any issues now.
   
   Dry Packs [you can probably find them at Lowes/Home Depot]: http://www.amazon.com/Dry-Packs-1-Ounce-Moisture-Absorbing-Indicating/dp/B001UYEBNW

You will need a harness to bypass the factory amp. Low price. Otherwise you will be either running new wire from dash to doors or standing on your head splicing wires for days.

Here's one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BEQA2

You will need to locate the factory amp, mine was behind the cubby below the climate control. ('91). In my '88 it was directly above the steering column.

Good luck!

The static noise might be due to poor isolation between the power and audio lines in the Bluetooth unit--I had the same issue with mine. The solution was to buy a grounding unit like this one that sits inline on the audio cable. Worked like a champ, and the cable on it is long enough that I can put the whole thing out of sight.

I have one of these volt meters that plugs into the 12v socket so you can monitor voltage when driving. Very handy. Voltage should be ~14 volts while running and ~12.x while stopped.

You can do this with a regular multimeter but sometimes it's helpful to be able to keep an eye on it while driving.

Mine have been quiet. MUCH better brakes than my previous Acura. The Acura didn't stop as well and had much more of a "pulsing" feeling. The only downside to the Volvo brakes is they do generate a LOT of black brake dust. But just wash your car and it's gone!

If you're getting a squeak when breaking then I'd suggest cleaning and re-lubricating the brake hardware. You can have a shop do this, or if you do it yourself, this is a great lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU

> OBDII

Like this one here

I grabbed a slightly different one from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F9IZTO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the ones I got. I think they're awesome. I paired them with some 6000k headlights, and I have no complaints.

http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-G12SR3-2-Inch-Angle-Grinder/dp/B000ULQVCU

I grabbed this for my 98 v70, works with a single DIN stereo

I had a thin 4 inch long crack in my XC70 oil pan which leaked oil within 20 minutes. I drained the oil out of the car, let the crack drain out fully, cleaned the outside of the pan and coated almost the entire outside of the oil pan with JB weld. This was 20,000 KM ago and the JB weld is holding strong with no sign of giving up. I also fixed a snow blower engine which had a crack in the head with JB weld many years ago, that snow blower still works.
http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Original-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE

no, unfortunately those are not for stage microphones. You're thinking of a 3 pin XLR cable (example: https://www.amazon.com/Your-Cable-Store-Microphone-feet/dp/B001JI2KHS )