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> When moving a unit along their movement value'd distance, do you usually measure out the lead model, move it, and then move each other model in the unit in approximately the same (but not measured) distance to maintain coherency, or do you measure out each individual model in a unit to ensure not a single one possibly goes further than its value? Or is this something agreed upon by the players pre-match?

> If each model is measured, I could see some units (ie, conscript squads) being extremely time-consuming or difficult to deal with depending on terrain and model count.

Officially, each model. However almost everyone I've ever played with does it the "time saving way" when dealing with large groups of models. This usually isn't a problem when you are clearly moving them less than max movement range. This is especially the case with horde units that have greater than 10 models to a unit. 20x Poxwalkers for instance. Once you get used to playing, it isn't too time consuming for a single 5 model Marine squad.

> On the second question, is there a generally agreed upon "kit" or set of paint brushes to get before starting to paint models? In addition to the First Strike box I got last night, I also got the small Painting Essentials box which includes a brush (along with cutter, glue, and some small pots), but wasn't sure what other brushes I might need/want before starting to paint.

The "goto" kit for brushes tends to be a Winsor and Newton Series 7 Round Size #2 and #0. Keep them clean with Master's Brush soap and they'll last you a long time. You can find them on Amazon. At $10-$15 a brush they aren't cheap when starting out. And that's arguably more then you need for a first model. You can get by with a cheap bag of small "gold taklon" brushes from walmart or similar at first.

Here's something I wrote recently on brushes for someone else looking for some nicer brushes....

https://www.reddit.com/r/deathguard40k/comments/8ac9ui/what_warhammer_brushes_should_i_get_what_vallejo/

As for Army Painter brushes specifically. It's what I started with before moving to Kolinsky Hair brushes. Still use a number of their small dry brushes for small detail dry brushing. If you are set on Army Painter... The Wargamer series, specifically the Regiment, Character, and Detail brushes are pretty solid. As well as the Wargamer Small Drybrush. Certainly better than Walmart synthetics. Have held up well cleaning with Masters Brush Soap linked below. They just have never had the same type of fine tip you get on a Kolinsky. The super small Army Painter brushes aren't really worth it though in the long run.

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I have a large collection of brushes with my better half. Bought her a large collection from different brands from around the world so she could try different styles to find the perfect brush for her.

Essentially, you'll want a Natural Kolinsky fiber brush in round shape for miniature base coating, shading, layering, edging and detail work. They will last you quite a while if you take care of them. Most people find they can do everything with a #2 and #0. A workhorse and a detail brush. Good natural Kolinsky hair helps thinned paint flow properly out of the brush, and holds an excellent point. There are a number of options to get a good Kolinsky brush:

As for brands, you have options:

• Winsor and Newton Series 7. Well known for quality and value among miniature painters. This is the gauge by which other high end brushes are judged. - #2, #0
  
• da Vinci. A little more but you can get a nice Travel Series for similar money to their traditional handled brushes. Helps protect the tip while in storage or traveling to the store to paint. They run a little smaller/thinner than W&N Series 7. - #2, #1. This is always the first brush my better half reaches for, if she's not feeling it that day though she'll pull just about any other Kolinsky brush from her collection.
  
• On the cheaper side is ZEM. Had very good luck with them. Good companion for the W&N7 as I use ZEMs when painting metallics as they can be a bit rougher on brushes. They do have some ware to them after dozens of models compared to the more expensive W&N or da Vinci. But don't need to be thrown in the trash like the cheap synthetics. Brush soap does wonders. Set of size #10/0, #0, #2, & #4. Or Individually. These tend to be the first brush I reach for... since I gave the other brushes as a gift. I try to stay to my cheap brushes... If I'm not feeling it that day then I will grab a W&N7.
  
• Other Brands of Kolinsky fiber brushes I own but don't have as much experience with... Raphael, Escoda, Connoisseur.
  
• There's also Citadel's own Artificer line... They are also Kolinsky fiber brushes so need to be cleaned regularly. I have not tried them but many suggest they are similar quality as the W&N Series 7. Just a little more expensive.
  
• When friends come over to learn how to paint up thier board game or DnD minis... I hand them a pouch an assortment of Army Painter Wargamer Brushes or Winsor and Newton synthetic Cotman so they don't need to learn on walmart brushes, but don't risk our Kolinskys.
  
  Then you'll want to keep it all clean with "The Masters" Brush Soap and Conditioner. Cleaning regularly will make a big difference brush life. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ ... Keeping brushes freshly rinsed in a basin can help prevent the bad buildup of dried paint to begin with. This kind of thing... https://www.amazon.com/Loew-Cornell-Brush-Tub-II/dp/B0019IKYU8/ or really any sturdy cup you have around that won't tip over easily.
  
  NOTE - You'll want to use cheaper brushes for Drybrushing, it can just murder brushes. Either walmart/craft store brushes you can toss, or just cheaper quality brushes made for it, like Army Painter or Citadels drybrush lines.
  
  As for paint... I use Army Painter and Citadel. Citadel primarily for anything warhammer to get color matches. Army painter for some washes, and anything else I paint (boardgame and DnD minis). Rither now I are only using Vallejo for Airbrush paints and a few premium metallics.
  
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  There's a great guide that got me and my other half started over on the /r/minipainting subreddit. https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/comments/50hd3a/rminipainting_buying_guide_hd_remastered/
  
  
  

First off WELCOME TO THE TIME/MONEY BLACKHOLE !!
As a fellow Tau player I just have to correct something, they arent robots. Theres little fish face alien fuckers in those suits.
Yes they are fantastically awesome !
If you hit your local shop on weekends you will very likely find people who will be incredibly nice to you and will be very happy to help you learn to paint. This is usually a great bunch of fanboys and we love talking to newbies :) My son will talk for hours on how awesome orks are and his buddie will tell me how amazing Chaos is. I play Tau, Space Marines, Eldar & Necrons. oh i'm 47 so the habit will last your lifetime.
As for what equipment, I suggest an exacto knife for removing tiny bits of plastic. A task light with a magnifying glass is awesome. A good set of brushes & an Army painter kit. Links are below. Paint scheme... dude they are all awesome. What do YOU want ? Dont go crazy at first. start simple, 3 colors and basic bases. As you get better you can add details. Please post photos of your progress and never be afraid to ask questions
For the greater good !

Light - https://www.amazon.com/Spectrum-Daylight-Magnifier-3-Diopter-VS01222B/dp/B00DJG9DFA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493865330&sr=8-2&keywords=task+light+magnifier

Paint - https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Mega-Paint/dp/B01MTXRUUT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493865371&sr=8-1&keywords=army+painter+set

Brushes - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7UFLP5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.

I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.

For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.

There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.

A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.

I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.

Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!

Also not the original commenter, but I just bought an airbrush a few months ago and did a (read way too much) research into it. u/darcybono has pretty excellent advice on the Badger Patriot 105, it's a great brush.

This is a copy/paste from a conversation I had awhile back where someone asked about them like a month after I had started using mine. The sotar refers to the Sotar 20/20 the brush I wound up getting. I find the cone is a little smaller than I'd like, but haven't gotten a medium tip yet so I know it can go bigger.

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>Amazon was fine for the sotar and this was the compressor I got.
>
>I also grabbed this cleaning kit but I don't use the upper brush holder because it doesn't fit the sotar. I actually 3d printed a stand for mine.
>
>You'll also want Vallejo airbrush thinner, iwata airbrush cleaner, and I recommend distilled water.
>
>If you haven't swapped your paints to dropper bottles I heavily recommend doing so. The GW pots really suck for it, though you can mitigate that some by using pipettes. Just make sure to get an agitator that isn't reactive like, I use hematite beads.
>
>Let me know if you have any other questions!

It's super fab, the compressor is quiet enough that I can use it when the house is asleep (I'm in a basement office of a two story home) I've used it a bunch for priming and have a couple projects I'm working toward where I'll be using it for base coating. I got one of the Munitorum Cargo Crate boxes and after testing basecoating on them I'll be moving to using the brush to basecoat my marines and such.

1. Go with whatever visually/story-wise/tactically appeals to you the most. If you have zero interest in close combat, Tau. If you like spikey rape and murder and awesome speed, DE. CSM are spikey without the rape, but just as much murder plus more durability. Look up the 1d4chan tactics articles on each faction--they're a fun read, if nothing else.
   
   
2. Water pot, paint palette, and I'd recommend this fancy brush cleaner as well as nice brushes. Research what type of brushes (kolinsky sable are a common top-of-the-line purchase) you want before buying them. Whether you're new to painting in general or not, I still recommend taking good care of nice brushes as opposed to constantly replacing crappy brushes. You get way more mileage and quality. here is the method I use for cleaning brushes using Master's cleaner. I recently started doing this, and it's been great. Wish I started earlier. Shameless product placement for the win, huh?
   
   
3. Basically, get your hands on the codex for the army you want as well as a rulebook (or use your imagination to cut down on startup costs). Explore what kinds of units you want to field in the codex. Start with an HQ choice and two Troops choices. Your friends will be able to help you with list writing and rules initially.

Well if you get an airbrush then it can be used to replace the base coat without the need for a primer coat...they can put down a really beautiful powder coat in a short time that is difficult to replicate with a brush, especially on large flat areas (imo)

I wouldn't get one until you're buried in models honestly...I was about 60-70 models deep before I decided to get one cause I really like the hobby, its an investment if you find you actually like painting or want to build an army to play with.

That warning aside there is a cheap set available on Amazon for $80 if you have prime that I bought, since it comes with a compressor, that I have had no problems with. You have to give it a break after 15-20 min or so to cool off bc the compressor gets hot but I havent had any serious issues with it at all. The brush is not very detailed but its a great practice brush for beginners and dosent cost $400 or more like a real pro brush will. You need practice with a cheap one before getting one of those or you wont be able to use it to matter, like months of practice I'm still learning the intricacies and I paint a lot.

The other difficulty an airbrush introduces is paint. Out of pot paints will not work in an airbrush. They need to be thinned SUBSTANTIALLY or the brush will clog up and need to be thoroughly cleaned before it will work again. It's incredibly frustrating and happens a lot when you're learning how to thin paints to keep them thick enough to make a not watery coat but thin enough to not clog... best bet is thinner is safer, it takes less time to apply 10 coats than clean your brush (maybe a small exaggeration but it really is a 0 production time waster) Vallejo makes a Model Air brand that is prethinned, I would recommend using those whenever possible, or at least for black/white since you will use those colors a lot (also the GW white primer is often watery and can't be used as a white layer like the black primer can...that stuff makes your models BLACK...) unfortunately they don't make their entire product line in Air so you're going to have to thin your own paints somewhat often. I would highly recommend buying a pre-made model paint thinner from a hobby store/website instead of trying to use the cheaper option of 50% Isopropyl Alcohol, the pre-mades also have some chemical that acts as a 'flow optimizer' which just works better than IPA.

TL;DR: 1. Buy Models

2. Paint^some Models

3. Buy More Models

4. Repeat 1-3 until Buried in Unpainted Plastic Krak

5. Buy Airbrush

6. Finish Models, go home and rethink your life.

That's a loaded question. I'm going to assume you want the cheapest price for a mid grade set up. I wouldn't recommend going cheaper than this set up personally. tl;dr roughly $170-$200 for a mid grade setup. Can you go cheaper? Yes, would I recommend it? No.

Air brush compressor with tank $100 (ideally you want one with a tank, the master one is actually pretty great but fairly loud, if you want a quieter one you will need to spend more $)

Air brush itself, start off with a quality midgrade brush. DON'T CHEAP OUT AND GET A LOW GRADE MASTER BRUSH TRUST ME. I started with a badger 105 which runs around $55-$70 and really like the thing, but will have to upgrade down the road if I want to do more than just base coating. It's spray pattern is very wide so for finer details it's really hard (for me) to use.

Airbrush flow improver. $10-$15 per 200ml. You will mix this 25(flow improver)/25(distilled water)/50(paint) for thinning purposes. Obviously some paints will need to be thinned more and others less. Generally you want the consistency of milk for your end product. Proper paint thinning and what psi to shoot it at will be one of the biggest things to learn when starting off airbrushing, but it's something you will learn fast through trail and error. I highly recommend getting some models you don't care about to get through this process. I was lucky enough to have my store manager let me practice painting some terrain for the store to get over my learning curve.

Airbrush cleaner + roll of paper towels. Once you are done with the paint and need to clean out the airbrush fill the cup with water, shoot out the water (into the airbrush pot) clean out the bowl with a paper towel, put cleaner in and shoot that out, then keep shooting water through till soap bubbles stop forming and water is clear.

Airbrush pot/holder this is really a great investment for $13 holds the airbrush and it gives you a place to spray your left overs/clean out your brush

If you're looking into getting into it, but aren't sure what exactly you want, I found and bought this kit last year: http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Performance-Multi-purpose-Compressor-The/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1369330703&sr=8-5

Fair warning: the airbrush is Master brand, which is made in China, and is most probably a knockoff of an older Iwata. It is not an amazing airbrush, but it is decent. You will not likely be able to find a compressor and airbrush for a similar price elsewhere (at least not that I've been aware of).

I think it isn't a bad starter airbrush, but it is quite the pain to clean. I found it to be satisfactory for my needs (I used it on that Warhound WIP I posted the other day) and was a good way to get a decent compressor and airbrush to figure out how to use one and what they're good for. I'm starting to look into upgrading to a better brush myself, but if you're likely to be on a budget for a while, this could work out pretty well for a while, it just won't be amazing.

For that money you could probably pick up a relatively good airbrush/compressor set. If he's never used one before it would be a fairly big change in his painting process, but I've yet to meet a modeller that doesn't lust after that smooth airbrush finish!

Paasche make excellent airbrushes, this looks like quite a good one. This would be a sufficient compressor to pair it with although you may need an adapter if the lone user review is to be trusted. This would leave you some budget left to pick up extra supplies like paint thinning solution (for making normal acrylics airbrush friendly).

For paints you can use citadel which they have a painting app (Citadel app) which gives you instructions on what colors to use and in what order ect for a certain look and also for different colors as well. But you can get a bundle of paints from Amazon that are small to get you started and then a larger bundle with more paints and shades which is a better price for essential paints you would want/need. There's also vallejo, P3, and scale 75 which I wouldn't recommend for a beginner. For brushes just the bundle from a craft store is a great start to get a lot of brushes to start with, no need to buy expensive stuff until you feel more comfortable. [Warhammer TV](https://www.youtube.com/user/Games Workshop Want) has great tutorials on YouTube and you can search "painting insert model" and you'll get lots of tutorials. Miniac is also a great channel for beginners as well

Alright lets do this.

Fantasy:

You like friendship and grimdark? You get the Slayer series:
http://www.amazon.com/Gotrek-Felix-First-Omnibus-Novels/dp/1844163741/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1426257019&sr=1-1&keywords=gotrek+and+felix+omnibus

You like malice and conniving and plot twists? You get the Darkblade Series:
http://www.amazon.com/Chronicle-Malus-Darkblade-Warhammer-Anthology/dp/1844165639/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1426257058&sr=1-1&keywords=darkblade+omnibus

You like the Empire n shit? They did a whole series about every "part" of the army:
http://www.amazon.com/Empire-Omnibus-Warhammer-Chris-Wraight/dp/1849705879/ref=pd_sim_b_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=15PKR46KZZN2847VPRMN

The omnibus contains the arty, pikemen, and 2handed swords companies. There is also a Reiksguard book and some others.


40k:

You like comedy? You get Ciaphus Cain (currently 2 omnibus, books getting a bit stale now but the early ones are good):
http://www.amazon.com/Ciaphas-Cain-Hero-Imperium-Novels/dp/1844164667

You like philosophy (kinda)? You get the Night Lords series:
http://www.amazon.com/Night-Lords-Aaron-Dembski-Bowden/dp/184970676X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1426256834&sr=1-1&keywords=night+lords+omnibus

You like pure bloody action? You get any of the Gaunts Ghosts:
http://www.amazon.com/Gaunts-Ghosts-Founding-Dan-Abnett/dp/1844163695/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1426256866&sr=1-2&keywords=gaunts+ghost+omnibus

You like the movie The Dirty Dozen? You get The Last Chancers:
http://www.amazon.com/Last-Chancers-Warhammer-000-Novels/dp/1844163008/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1426256913&sr=1-1&keywords=last+chancers+omnibus

You want all the pre-lore in the game? You start collecting the Horus Heresy books (up to like 30 of em):
http://www.amazon.com/Horus-Heresy-Box-Volumes-1-12/dp/1849708290/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1426256963&sr=1-2&keywords=horus+heresy



I got plenty more. But these are good places to start. If you like one race in particular over others, let me know and I can recommend some race specific books for you.

get something like this, with the drills maybe in your local measurements.

then a set of files like this or a complete set like that. than this strange substance.

consider this in case he gets funny. some collection of magnets like those. prices vary drasticly, again go for local measurement system. he will probably need 1x1mm, 2x1mm, 3x2mm. just check if the drills you got and the magnets fit size wise and the magnets have to be neodynium.

​

i am not very familar with skaven so i cant give much advice on models but i assume this one will make him happy. it qualifizes for "anything really cool", can be used to build different things he might like and you can use the stuff mentioned above to fill out the rest of the budget if you like.

​

this overrated book vendor in the links was just used as example of product and quality and prizes of products will vary drastically. with this stuff you cant make too much wrong with going cheap.

somebody from your country might offer you a good vendor. i cant really suggest specific products since they maybe are not availlable where you are from.

​

my most sincere condolences that you lost your partner to plastic crack :(

Fun topic!

Lots of good responses already - I'll chip in:

If you're craftsy/good with a brush and kind of know what you're doing, scenery is definitely a cool idea. You could purchase some for him as well, since there is "no wrong answer" when it comes to scenery. These guys have the best selection of MDF scenery (looks good, lots of bang for your buck vs. the fancy plastic stuff) I have seen: https://ttcombat.com/

Otherwise-

If you know his army/colors - something unique to it would be cool. Some things gamers need: tape measures, dice, stuff to write in. For instance, a really nice tape measure https://www.amazon.com/Measuring-Tape-16ft-Retractable-Construction/dp/B07529JM1V/ref=sr_1_23_sspa?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1509721900&sr=1-23-spons&keywords=tape+measure&psc=1

Maybe some wild custom dice: https://www.thegamecrafter.com/custom-dice

If he's relatively new to the hobby you could get him some paints he doesn't have (or a big set, if you you've got buck)

Some new brushes - depending on the skill level he's at, good brushes can be fairly pricy - here's my favorite: https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Sable-Watercolor/dp/B0013E68T4

Toss in some brush preserver if he doesn't have any.

A lot of these things are stuff he might already have, but better versions he might not generally bother to get for himself, which is a cool present.

I cannot recommend an airbrush enough. Save up a bit and grab something basic like this I've got a similar compressor for my iwata, and have heard those air brushes are pretty good for the cost. Even if you just base coat or prime your minis with it, it is totally worth it for super clean base coats.

I use the Amazon choice pack of ten miniature brushes, cost me £12, I found the games workshop brushes didn't hold their tip as well I liked and I gave these brushes a punt and I love them. Had them for over a year now and are in a much better state than my GW ones, get some Masters Brush Cleaner as well and all your brushes will stay in good shape.

Here's the link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01N9GOFSM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Don't use GW brand brushes or tools as they are over-priced. Middle of the road quality for near premium prices. Just get yourself a xacto for trimming and some generic hobby clippers.

For paints you should at least look at vallejo and reaper (way better bottle design). Opinions differ but I think Reaper beats them all aside from metallics where GW are head and shoulders over everyone else. Also THIN YOUR PAINTS AND USE A WET PALLET.

Jokes aside a wet pallet, whether DIY parchment paper or store bought, make blending so much easier for a new painter and is my number one suggestion for those just starting out.

For brushes there is a huge range in price (with GW near the top) and quality (GW near the bottome here). Army painter is my go to for synthetic brushes with Kolinsky being the generally held gold standard sable brushes (sable hair forms a finer point). Pick up a set of army painter's (they also have helpful descriptive names rather than numbers) look after them with this magic stuff (you can probaly get it cheaper elsewhere but it last forever anyway) and then see if you want to upgrade later.

Have fun!

Honestly would recommend the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Yeah it's a more expensive airbrush but it's a fantastic piece of equipment.

Pretty much would recommend these to start you off:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQKFAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001738DXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

EDIT: I know the topic says cheap but with airbrushes, you pay for what you get.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF0MW9G/ref=asc_df_B00BF0MW9G5424256/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00BF0MW9G&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198071540295&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12556250896845492134&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008154&hvtargid=pla-318190335306 I started with this airbrush and love it. make sure you pick up some cleaner and something to clean the airbrush with. also I'd recommend getting some airbrush primer and using that to learn how to use the airbrush. This is a really cheap way to try out airbrushing and comes with a tiny, quiet air compressor. Its a great starter kit.

Army Painter are probably the best reasonably priced equivalent however if you want to up your game definitely splash out on some Windsor and Newton Series 7 like /u/Route66_LANparty mentioned.

Whatever you go with make sure you get some of this, proper use will keep your brushes alive for months on end ;)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Masters-Brush-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520353247&sr=8-1&keywords=masters+brush+cleaner

under 300 bucks? I can beat that.

at first i bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrushing-MAS-Airbrush-Compressor-The/dp/B00BF0MW9G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413554989&sr=8-2&keywords=airbrush

which comes with a crappy little compressor. for a total of 50 bucks,

It kept getting clogged and didnt really work that well. not recomended.

but! I bought this: http://www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html

for 15 dollars on sale at the store, and it is thebomb.com
I've airbrushed a bunch of stuff with it already and it works like a dream. I can do some fine detail work (not too fine). Do not be fooled into spending money that could easily be spent on more models.

And you dont have to buy special paints either. just take about 40% windex, and 60% Games Workshop paint, and you'll be painting.


For your purposes you dont have to spend much money at all.

When I was going to take the airbrush plunge I found a cheap kit on Amazon with a brush and tank compressor.

Came out to around $140. The only reason I stopped using the brush is because I'm an idiot and lost a tiny part, so I stepped up to a Badger. I still use the compressor and it works really well as far as I can tell. Gets hot after a long session, but it holds up!

The comments here are good, definitely don't break the bank right off the bat. Getting good with a cheaper brush will make a well made one really shine.

edit: another reason to start cheap is due to everything else you'll need to get. Thinner, cleaner, mask, maybe even some paints!

This is a fairly affordable set that will help you get started.

Also, get brush cleaner to extend the life of your brushes.

When you get some natural bristle brushes that you want to keep clean this helps keep them in good shape.

Remember to dunk your brushes in water every few minutes, while you're painting, to keep paint from drying on the bristles. Also, don't store them standing up. Store them laying down so that water and paint don't work into the ferrule.

I'm about 90% certain this is the one that I have. I haven't had much luck with affecting the flow of the brush. I know some people have been able to get airbrushes to spray over a relatively small area. This one seems to be either on, or off; I'm not sure if that's my fault or the brush's. But overall I'm very happy with this for a beginner's airbrush.

If you suddenly have trouble with it spraying properly and your paint is thinned pretty well, consider unscrewing the nozzle piece and checking it from the inside I've noticed that I'll get a buildup there that will allow airflow but not paint. Clearing it seems to get things back on track. And make sure to clean the brush after every time you take it out. Don't let it sit out.

Edit:. Would help if I actually linked the brush...

I appreciate it man, I'll be sure to check out those color settings. As to my airbrush I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q. It is currently still in its box but I will be sure to include info on how that goes and what I think about the airbrush in my next post.

If you'd like, I can give you a sneak peak into my next project. Just let me know brotha.

Cheers

Brushes really are super important. Get good brushes and keep good care of them. I've found having a bottle of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol around to be very handy for cleaning brushes, as are the general brush conditioners/cleaners on the market.

And I make mistakes with brush strokes all the time.

Caiphas Cain, hero of the imperium,
http://www.amazon.com/Ciaphas-Cain-Imperium-Sandy-Mitchell/dp/1844164667/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303111503&sr=1-1
It's a bit more lighthearted than the usual 40k fare and really easy to read. Still does a good job with the storytelling i think.

Eisenhorn is probably the best possible place to start in 40k. You get every possible angle of 40k explored in this omnibus as well as a some fantastic characters. Add Ravenor for flavor.

After that, dive into the military side of things with Gaunt's Ghosts. This covers primarily the Imperium vs Chaos side of the conflict, but also the internal conflicts the Imperium suffers from.

Now that you're thoroughly acquainted with the human side, view the universe through the eyes of the super-human Space Marines in The Ultramarines Omnibus. This series shows the strengths (and weaknesses) of the Space Marines as well as introducing the terrifying Chaos Space Marines more thoroughly.

Cry for death to the False Emperor with Soul Hunter. Follow up with the sequels in Void Stalker and Blood Reaver to get a very interesting perspectives from the Renegades.

Finally, finish your introductory odyssey with The Horus Heresy. You'll be reading how the modern universe came to be.

This is a "fuck-ton" of reading and will keep you busy for 6 months to a year or more before you finish. These series are the best of the best in the novel side of things. There are huge amounts more in the Army Codexes ^^that ^^you ^^should ^^be ^^able ^^to ^^find ^^for ^^$0 ^^on ^^"sharing" ^^sites and other excellent novels. PM me anytime and I'll happily answer questions/suggestions.

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement† are my go to plastic glue:

I love the small brush in it for applying the glue I find it easier to control the "precision" tube (like on this) I also find that the tube get stopped with old glue and I don't think I have ever used all the glue in one because of that. But as I said the Tamiya glue do not have that problem.

The design of the glass bottle makes it almost impossible to tip over (I did that 2 times last time I tryed humbrol Liquid Poly)

I like the glue it self, but if you want "extra thin" or something a little thicker is a personal taste and what you are using it for. But extra thin are the standard for model kits and what we are doing is smaller (or same size) than that.

Edit: I forgot to say that if your flgs don't have it you local model kit/train store does, and in general it's a good place to look for hobby supplies.

†(The link are from this guide https://hobbymodelguide.com/best-glue-for-models/ that I like, so there probably a refual link in it)

You sure do, I posted a product below. You can get it in most hobby stores and all art supply stores. Little bit of water and move the brush around in the soap work out all the crap. If you take care of your "nice new sable brushes" they will take care of you :)

https://www.amazon.ca/The-Masters-Brush-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM

I got this and I’m pretty happy with it... eventually I intend to get something nicer, but it works well and seems to be decent quality. The compressor I’m not so sure about though.

Master Airbrush Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ruk5AbMQTXGEJ

tamiya glue is pretty good with a nice applicator if you want to be more careful when gluing your models, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2N0SJ6OUA4GVT&keywords=tamiya+glue&qid=1566379040&s=gateway&sprefix=tamiya+g%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-1

I like Tamiya cement. I use the extra thin variety most often. It comes with a brush on the lid which I find much easier than trying to squirt the correct amount in the correct place, or trying to scoop it up with a toothpick or whatnot.

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC

As for the chemistry, really any brand will dissolve GW plastic and meld pieces together, it's just a question of what consistency you like working with better.

I have one cheap 0.2mm Sparmax SP20 and one Iwata Revolution Br (0.3mm). The cheaper one is a lot more work to clean and maintain, though I am unsure if it is a quality issue or just the smaller nozzle diameter that's causing it.

I don't have this one, but I have heard very good things about it:
http://www.amazon.com/NEO-Gravity-Feed-Action-Airbrush/dp/B004INERK4

If you plan on buying one, look at the "frequently bought together" area a bit under the main image. You do want a quick-disconnect and the cleaning pot, it makes it a lot easier. You should also consider a soft, braided hose (the plastic ones are often a bit springy and can resist your movements).

Do you have a suitable compressor?

I had the same goal as you, but eventually I broke down and went up a few bucks, knowing that I needed a compressor with a tank. So I went on Amazon and picked up this Master. Is it flawless, no, but I can paint for a long time without much worry. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001738DXU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aztyyb5ZBDTG4

While searching for the actual airbrush itself though, I jumped online and got a Hobby Lobby 40% off coupon and picked up this Iwata for a reasonable price. It's a decent airbrush although I'm plotting to use another coupon and pickup it's much more expensive siblings for detail work. http://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Airbrushes/Neo-CN-Gravity-Feed-Dual-Action-Airbrush/p/868

You can refine any airbrush though with some Regdab from Badger, it is some great lube, which you'll need anyways to keep a brush going and keep from wearing out the internal oring which would cause blowback failure.

You'll be at around $150 before paints if you have Amazon prime, but this setup has been great for a starter kit. Go too cheap and you'll have a bad experience and regret it. I'm loving it though, being able to blast through basecoating rapidly, and finally getting to paint vehicles without unwanted brush strucks on flat points. I intend to do almost all of my layers on a plastic contemptor with it and some liquid masking.

Masters brush cleaner is awesome. It's basically a soap you work into the brush and it can revitalize even far gone brushes.

Amazon

Here's Les from the Awesomepaintjob using it

It's good stuff.

(DEATH TO THE FALSE EMPEROR!)

I bought a nice little hand drill on amazon. It’s great for these things. I use it mostly to drill out the joints in hands and arms to glue in magnets. But there are some tiny drill bits that you can use for the gun barrels.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RM61CbE51FS4D

I personally use Raphael Sable Kolinsky Brushes, sizes from about 0 to 2 depending on what I'm working on. They're fairly priced for their quality and you can definitely feel the difference between this and a cheap brush when painting.

If you make an investment in some nice brushes that you get something to clean them with and keep them in top form. Personally I use the Master's Brush Cleaner.

I bought this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N24LHLZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Its easy to put together, holds a ton of citadel paint pots. fits in my book shelf next to my desk for easy reach. I highly recommend it

Thank you very much for the thorough reply! I do need to work on highlighting. This is the first time I started actually painting the highlights on instead of dry-brushing everything. Also, I am waiting on a hose for my new Iwata-Medea airbrush and I think that will help me make the future vehicles look even better.

You don't need one with a tank for them to be quiet though.

I use one like the one in this kit and it's quiet enough where I can watch TV while painting without issue. It's quieter than my washing machine, in another room, on the other end of my apartment behind a couple of closed doors.

They also have a very small "tank" that charges up quickly then the thing shuts off. The tank is only good for like 3 seconds however. They do have some issues with extended, constant use and heat however. Over 2 minutes or so of constant use the tank will generate too much heat.

Not that model specifically, it just looks like it.

Miniac is pretty good with these sorts of things, and I used his videos to figure out my first Airbrush.

[Video talking about various good quality airbrushes.] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-WxKl_AVTE)

Video on how to start with an Airbrush.

Honestly, that compressor is good, but the Master's airbrushes aren't great. A really good airbrush for starters is the Badger Patriot 105. It's got very few moving parts, lots of tutorials on how to use and clean it, and does the job for a decent price.

Badger Patriot 105

Master's Compressor with good reviews

For both, it's about 200$.

I'd also look into the Master's Painting Hood (Link).

I'm willing to answer any questions on what shit to buy, so feel free to ask.

I got this combo and both the brush and the compressor have been great.

Master Airbrush Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ba9vybCNW19G9

Only complaints are that the compressor moves when it runs so it has to be on the floor and the regulator valve did not fit on straight up and down out of the box so I had to use the adjustment nut, not a big deal though.

This can go pretty big on the psi and it's constant psi is around 15, plenty for airbrushing.

Hit me up if you need any more info!

I think I want to try getting into airbrushing, but no nothing about what is good.

Do you think this would be a good starter kit?
http://www.amazon.com/Airbrushing-Performance-Multi-Purpose-Dual-Action-Airbrush/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323794416&sr=8-1

Also, I read somewhere else on this thread that if you use GW paints you need to thin them with some sort of alcohol?

the iwata neo is a good cheap airbrush. I used to use one untill I upgraded to a Sotar, and they're pretty decent.

I'm looking to buy an airbrush to make base coating the larger models a little bit quicker and found this. The reviews seem very positive but would like to ask for your opinions.

Thank you :) This

These are by far the best cases to carry tanks, and those akward shaped models in.
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Protector-Four-Pistol-Case/dp/B000P3WPKK

I bought this nail polish rack: https://www.amazon.com/Cq-acrylic-Bottles-Rack-Clear-16-4x7-8x7-5-x/dp/B01N24LHLZ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541427023&sr=8-5&keywords=nail+polish+rack

Fits the citadel paint pots perfectly.

Of course; you can generally break compressors into 2 broad categories, tank and tank-less. Because you're probably going to be working on precise projects for long periods you'll ideally want a compressor with a tank. Tank-less compressors can have fluctuations in air pressure that can mess with your painting. This is a good compressor, it's the one I own. You can also get it bundled with an Iwata HP-CS. It does run a bit hot, so be careful handling it after working for a long period, or take regular breaks (something you should probably do either way)

If that's a bit too expensive, wait for a local hobby story to have one of those "1/2 off one item" coupons, or shop around. You just want a tanked compressor and a braided hose. Just make sure that the hose is compatible withe the compressor and the brush. The connector for the HP-CS is 1/8". Tanks will vary, the one linked above has a 1/4" connector. So you'd either need a symmetrical hose, and an adapter, or an asymmetrical hose.

Totally worth it. There is a learning curve for sure, so if you keep it simple in the beginning with zenithal light technique, it will do wonders for your models and keep your sanity at the same time.
When you do get one, make sure you get a compressor that has a tank. I had one that did not and it was not usable. Also, a mosture trap is a must. posted a couple links for some reasonably priced brush and compressor that has the above mentioned features

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-Purpose-Dual-Action-Professional/dp/B002KJDXHQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458420341&sr=8-1&keywords=airbrush

http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458420440&sr=8-2&keywords=airbrush+air+compressor

Its on ebay, but I think that this might be superior:
http://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Depot-Performance-Multi-Purpose-Dual-Action/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ac_2

I can get the airbrush separately for around 24 dollars if the compressor is not very good. It fufills most of interwebz criteria.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N24LHLZ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Posted on here a while back. Works like a dream, I also magnetized a cheap pencil box to the side for brushes.

Are we sharing paint stations? This is mine I recently broke down and bought 12 cheap wire frame shelves to put all over my apartment so I keep everything I'm not currently using mini painting wise on one of those. Got a couple of these to keep all my paints on.

Read the Gaunts Ghost's series by Dan Abnett. Excellent reads, don't know why OP didn't recommend. amazon link

Get some Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver. Use it to wash the brush, then use some to form a tip before storage. Works really well.

A good, cheap way to start off with airbrushing is buying a master airbrush kit with air compressor and hose. I started off with this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540478118&sr=8-5&keywords=master+brand+airbrush

I then later replaced that airbrush with a badger patriot 105 which I continue to use now.

Master Airbrush Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o.HHDbYAMFR05


I’ve had mine for a year. I’ve replaced the actual airbrush since. My choice, not because i needed to.

Second this!

Been using this for years now and it always does the trick. Just make sure you use it before the paint gets too dry on the bristles; especially if you've been drybrushing!

I've been strongly recommended to pick up a couple of Windsor and Newton Series 7 brushes to start painting with instead of the Citadel Brushes. I'm looking at them on amazon, and there's two different kinds: Series 7 Miniature and Series 7 Watercolour. I can guess from the name which version I need, but I just wanted to check before purchasing them.

Miniature

Watercolour

I'm a big fan of these:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000P3WPKK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In my necron one I got a monolith 3 ghost arks, 2 annihilation barges and a triach stalker. They also fit 2 of the short slot foam GW uses.

Top tier brush cleaner.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM

Worth every penny you'll ever spend on it.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1453489548&sr=8-10&keywords=brush+cleaner

I personally like the Ciaphas Cain Omnibus.

The Ciaphas Cain stories are a little less grimdark 40k. They can be fairly light hearted, action packed and often humorous (a lot of pop culture references). It's enjoyable to read something that doesn't take itself too seriously after reading a lot of the dense 40k novels out there. It is not focused on space marines but that shouldn't be an issue.

Also they are dirt cheap on amazon, along with the first omnibus (books 1-3 plus 3 short stories) you could get the second omnibus (books 4-6 plus short stories) for $21 all together.

Also the link you give sells the set for 189 dollars. I've got it for much much less on Amazon (in France) : 95 € (105 dollars) :

https://www.amazon.fr/Army-Painter-Peinture-Miniature-Warpaints/dp/B01MTXRUUT/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=army+painter&qid=1568376715&sr=8-3

If you can get this stuff your brushes will last a long time and you'll probably never run out of cleaner - link

I picked mine up from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-105-BP-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0027AEANE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538885292&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=masters+brush+cleaner&dpPl=1&dpID=51DBwP0kf2L&ref=plSrch

I got this one off of Amazon.

Kolinsky round brushes #1-3, maybe #0 and #4; these are the mini painter's tool of choice and he will always need them because they wear out. Series 7, Raphael, da Vinci, Roubloff are all world-class brands. Look to pay around $8-18 per brush (not sure what country you are in). If he doesn't have any already get him a puck of Master's brush soap to go along, because proper care will preserve his tools for months and years depending on frequency of use. You will look savvy as fuck too.

Check out this pin vice at hobby lobby for 8 bucks, you can even combo the daily 40% off coupon and get it for dirt cheap:

pin vice: http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/swivel-head-pin-vise-618991/

nice set of bits: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398360531&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+drill+bits

coupon: https://m.hobbylobby.com/coupon

I use several of these http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Protector-Four-Pistol-Case/dp/B000P3WPKK . The egg carton style foam layers hold infantry well and the bottom layer (pluck foam if you are lucky) is easily cut for tanks and larger models. Not ideal, but cheap and portable.

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3

I use this after every paint session, it works wonders with keeping brushes sharp. Lasts a while too!

pin vise

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0JT8J8/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=d754fdf0-fd52-4edd-8917-8e65a84c20d5&pd_rd_wg=fKnZr&pf_rd_r=D26MBFBDG69SZRDM3X9R&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01M0JT8J8&pd_rd_w=oNBFn&pf_rd_i=nail+polish+shelf&pd_rd_r=344528db-599f-4a90-88a0-53092326eeca&ie=UTF8&qid=1536077396&sr=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0JT8J8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There you go!

I just use a 17 dollar gun case I got on amazon. Works wonders and has tons of room. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P3WPKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1369601942&sr=8-5&pi=SL75

So here's why I switched to an Airbrush:

1. Primer: I live in the PNW and our winters are cold and wet. Standing outside in my garage with a rattle can for primer sucks but then waiting 30 min + sometimes (because of the cold and humidity) is worse. Airbrushing primer on takes seconds and you have more options for colors.
   
   
2. Base Colors: With an airbrush the process of getting a smooth and even base coat is fantastic. For the first time I'm doing Imperial Fists! Doing a yellow basecoat is one of the most difficult things you'll come up against but an AB makes it simple and way less frustrating.
   
   
3. Stencils: I just ordered some Ork check stencils and I'm excited to add them to some looted wagons soon.
   
   An airbrush doesn't have to be a huge investment. I started out with this set
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485463803&sr=8-2&keywords=master+airbrush+kit
   
   the compressor died after a month but TCP replaced it in 2 days. It's a small investment but one that will make you much happier