(Part 2) Top products from r/Warhammer

On the miniatures wargame? video games? or lore?

I'm going to assume the miniatures tabletop wargame since that's the main focus of this sub...

There are many ways to enjoy the hobby. That's probably the most important thing to realize at first. For most people Warhammer is a hobby, not just a game you pickup and play. There are a few board game like games in the warhammer pantheon that are less of a full blown hobby, but still require some model building before play. For the most part Warhammer (or tabletop wargaming in general) becomes a full on hobby that takes a good amount of free time. That's the point of a hobby really, to enjoy your free time doing something other than just mindlessly watching TV.

First thing to do is decide which of the many Warhammer games you want to play. For you, this is likely easy, as you have a friend trying to get you into it.

After that, you'll want to decide on a faction to play within the game you friend is playing. Examples are Space Marines, Daemons, Orks... To decide you'll want to look at the model ranges and read a little of the lore/story behind them. Pick whichever one calls to you, whichever seem "cool."

Once you've decided on a faction, you'll start small. Assembling and painting a single box to see if this is enjoyable for you. Pickup either a single starter box that includes your faction or a "Start Collecting Box".

Startup costs are not insignificant as there are tools and supplies you'll need. But once you are going the main supplies you'll need are expanding your paint collection and replacing brushes.

• Flush cutters to remove parts from the sprues. You can get fancy here but don't have to. A sub-$10 Xuron will give you quality cuts and be dependable at a third of the price of the nice (but $$) Game Workshop clippers.
  
• Files or scraper to smooth out the sprue marks (Durasand Twigs - Blue are my goto. I've got high praise for the Games Workshop Moldline remover tool, but it's an expensive early purchase.
  
• Plastic glue (aka plastic cement) to put the parts together. Tamiya Extra Thin or Deluxe Plastic Magic are my goto glues. They have brush on applicators making the glue less messy and more precise.
  
• A can of White, Grey, or Black spray primer to prepare the models for painting. Inexpensive Rustoleum or Krylon from a hardware store/walmart works well for your first set of models. Stick to White or Light Grey if you plan to use the new easy to use Citadel "Contrast" paints. Don't forget a mask to protect you a bit from the fumes of spraying the primer and later the varnish.
  
• Half a dozen to a dozen model paint colors to start out. Citadel, Vallejo, Reaper, or Army Painter are excellent model paints with a good range of prices. Paints are a big upfront cost, but thankfully model point pottles/pots last a long time. If you decide you want to paint like the box art, Citadel paints match up with games workshop tutorials. Otherwise, any of them well do.
  
• Eventually, you'll also want a spray can matte varnish to seal/protect the models. That way paint won't come off on your fingers as you play. Testors, Army Painter or Citadel make a good spray varnishes.
  
  .....
  
  If you are less into the hobby idea, but still want to play some tabletop games with Warhammer miniatures, look at the Warhammer Underworlds line. it plays like a mix of miniatures game, deck building, and boardgame. But the models are already pre-colored plastics and push to fit, so no glues or paints needed to play. Just clippers.

Warlord Games are actually run by a bunch of ex-GWs (including the much beloved Paul Sawyer); their models are much closer to true 28mm than GW, and thus while they are only a bit shorter they are much scrawnier (or 'realistically proportioned,' depending on who you ask). I've had my eye on the Brit Commandos set to combine with some FW lasguns into veterans or stormtroopers, and actually just ordered a pretty solid force to see what I can come up with.

If you're looking for some cheaper alternatives, I can recommend a couple. There's the Wargames Factory Stormtroopers, which are of a bit of a lesser quality than GW. They're fairly cheap and cheerful and with a bit of kitbashing, you can make a pretty neat, unique Krieger-style / Steel Legion army. Next up are the old Warzone: Mutant Chronicle plastics, which are super, super cheap (about 80 figs for 35ish dollars) and fit really well in 40k. On the other hand, the plastic doesn't convert too well. Both of these are dead on 40k scale, too, by the way. There's also Mantic's new Corporation, which aren't quite as cheap as the former options, but are probably the best sculpts and make a great Drop Trooper regiment. They also don't take to converting quite as well, but have what amounts to a complete army from the get-go. They're about the same height as Cadians but are a bit scrawnier, especially the arms. Oh! And the old Void plastics, which are out of print (though they can be picked up on Ebay pretty regularly for cheaper than Cadians), but were pretty good kit-bashing models, especially the Junkers (who are sort of space-Romans, I guess). They were also a bit shorter than GW guard. There's also the old AT-43 models, but unfortunately I don't think they're much cheaper anymore, since they already went through a fire-sale when the line was discontinued and now are 'rare'. Um, there's Defiance Games' USMC which was supposed to be out... like, 3 months ago. Or something. I asked for a refund because I was afraid they weren't ever going to come out. But when they do, I suppose they'd be pretty acceptable cheapish substitutes. And I think that's it (at least, for dedicated plastic sci-fi/modernish figs. Historical (like Napoleonic) kit-bashing is a whole new can of wyrms, and probably not much cheaper than going the official route in the end).

Edit: OH! And don't forget about using cheap 1/48 or 1/35 military tanks, which can be found for REALLY cheap (just a few examples), and can be kitbashed into amazing Guard tanks with a vehicle upgrade sprue and some heavy weapons for cheaper than a Leman Russ.

For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.

I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.

For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.

There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.

A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.

I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.

Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!

get something like this, with the drills maybe in your local measurements.

then a set of files like this or a complete set like that. than this strange substance.

consider this in case he gets funny. some collection of magnets like those. prices vary drasticly, again go for local measurement system. he will probably need 1x1mm, 2x1mm, 3x2mm. just check if the drills you got and the magnets fit size wise and the magnets have to be neodynium.

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i am not very familar with skaven so i cant give much advice on models but i assume this one will make him happy. it qualifizes for "anything really cool", can be used to build different things he might like and you can use the stuff mentioned above to fill out the rest of the budget if you like.

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this overrated book vendor in the links was just used as example of product and quality and prizes of products will vary drastically. with this stuff you cant make too much wrong with going cheap.

somebody from your country might offer you a good vendor. i cant really suggest specific products since they maybe are not availlable where you are from.

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my most sincere condolences that you lost your partner to plastic crack :(

I use a Grex TG3 with an Aspire Pro compressor. I hear good things about the Badger Krome Renegade if you want a lower priced airbrush but I love the pistol grip for long sessions and the compressor is the best i've ever used and I find it fairly priced for how awesome it is.

Its a small reservoir that vibrates at very high frequencies. Its frequently used to clean very small parts like jewelry, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Ultrasonic-Jewelry-Eyeglass-Cleaning/dp/B001DKDAVW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412266694&sr=8-1&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

Put your simple green solution in there with your models, run cleaner, scrub them when its done, and then rinse your models. You should be in a pretty good spot after that.

Also, make sure you rinse the ultra sonic cleaner well after you're done with it. If you leave paint residue in it, it becomes less effective.

I agree. I know there are a number of people who seem to be unhappy with what the Black Library have been doing with the Horus Heresy fluff, but it seems to me like all of the novels they've been pumping out are based on the skeleton of the story described in old graphic novels, "Visions of Heresy." You can still buy the collected works on Amazon, known as "The Collected Visions," and I absolutely love them. Link: http://www.amazon.com/Horus-Heresy-Collected-Visions/dp/1844164241

What it feels like to me, having read both that and all the HH novels to date, is that they're using the HH series to, "flesh out," all the little details glossed over in Visions. I mean, this is a GALAXY-WIDE conflict, there is a lot of story to tell.

The only things I've really been displeased with are the books written about the Dark Angels.

A few years back, Gav Thorpe wrote a book called "Angels of Darkness," in which an Interrogater-Chaplain is torturing one of the Fallen, who claims to be Chapter Master Astelan (The same Astelan mentioned in a HH short story, can't remember which one). Astelan reveals to the chaplain that in actuality, the, "Fallen," were ready and willing to head to Terra, but the Lion wanted to wait and see who won before committing his forces to either side.

This shakes the chaplain to his very core, and in the end, I like to think he believed Astelan, because he was able to put the pieces together and discover the truth for himself: Luther was the loyalist, and the Lion was the traitor.

Alas, The Black Library took their fluff in a different direction. Its not necessarily bad, per say, but after reading Angels of Darkness, I expected so much more.

I recommend this. It's an artbook, but it has several short-stories that are pretty good and gives an over-arching view of the entire heresy. Well worth the price.

The best combination for removing paint is Purple Power + a Sonic Cleaner. The sonic cleaner is optional, but a suitably sized one can be had for around 30 dollars from Amazon, and will make your life a lot easier when it comes to getting paint out of the details.

Edit: Here is the link to the Sonic Cleaner I use: Sonic Cleaner

Just put the models in the sonic cleaner full of purple power, let them sit a few hours, run the sonic cleaner a few cycles, then take out and brush with a toothbrush.

Fifteen hours. Best IG novel by far.

If you want exaggerated stories of heroes overcoming impossible odds, sure, go ahead and buy stuff like Gaunt's Ghosts. You'll be basically reading about Space Marines.

If you want a brutal, ultra realistic novel about how shitty life is in a warzone as a grunt in the Imperial Guard, get Fifteen Hours. Best Black Library book by far.

http://www.amazon.com/Fifteen-Hours-Warhammer-40-000/dp/1844162311

RE: your shoulder pad decals..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CW4NV8/ref=dp_prsubs_2

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Got a nice-ish inkjet printer? Print your own! Trim them as close to the finished print out as possible (pro tip when experimenting, print near the bottom of the sheet so it can be used again and again until you like the size/shape) then put this stuff on top of the decal after you use it:

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O9K5Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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You should have some pretty nice looking decals when all is said and done.

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Looks amazing, and I love the passion you are sharing with your posts. The only thing I would advise you to do is take a moment and look for mold lines, sprue attachment points, and gaps. I didn't see any mold lines, but they blend in with the plastic, but generally stand out once you paint. The sprue attachement point will also stand out. I bought a file set on amazon here that I find work amazingly. For gaps there is green stuff and milliputt for large gaps. There is liquid green stuff, but I have never bought a pot that wasn't dried out. Rather I learned from another mini painter that you can take milliputt, and make a small disk, and using an old brush and water make a liquid milliputt that can be used to paint in small gaps.

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Go for the color scheme that most inspires you. It may be technically difficult to pull off, but you will learn with every iteration that you attempt. The worst that can happen is that you strip it and start over. Enjoy and keep the updates coming.

Howdy there! Without knowing where you live-- presumably the UK, judging by the content of your post-- I can't direct you to a specific retailer or brand as it may not be available to you.

That being said, I picked up this cheapo pin vise off the interwebs and a pack of Magcraft Magnets (1.6mm, 200 count). Most drill bits you'd need can probably be found at your local hardware store or online for much cheaper. These 1.6mm magnets work the best in my opinion, since they fit inside Infantry torsos and in most vehicle attachment slots.

Now, with that being said, it really depends on what size of magnets you're using or what you are trying to magnetize. Magcraft is my go-to brand and they've got all sorts of weird sizes and shapes for all your magnet-ey needs. Plink me back if you've got more questions!

I personally use Raphael Sable Kolinsky Brushes, sizes from about 0 to 2 depending on what I'm working on. They're fairly priced for their quality and you can definitely feel the difference between this and a cheap brush when painting.

If you make an investment in some nice brushes that you get something to clean them with and keep them in top form. Personally I use the Master's Brush Cleaner.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/ABD-TC-20T.html#.W_7P-mhKiUk

I got one of these as a hand me down from my buddy when i started. It ran for me for a good two years before it burnt itself out and he had it for 4 years before me. Great affordable starter compressor. I like having a tank so it does not have to run 100% of the time when your using it.

Sense then replaced it with the link below and its a wonderful compressor but frankly Im glad I got it on sale I dont see a large enough difference personally. Should something ever go wrong with it I will likely go back to the tcpglobal one above.

https://www.amazon.ca/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-TC910-Compressor/dp/B005UH7CVI/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1543426170&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=iwata+compressor

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Miniac is pretty good with these sorts of things, and I used his videos to figure out my first Airbrush.

[Video talking about various good quality airbrushes.] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-WxKl_AVTE)

Video on how to start with an Airbrush.

Honestly, that compressor is good, but the Master's airbrushes aren't great. A really good airbrush for starters is the Badger Patriot 105. It's got very few moving parts, lots of tutorials on how to use and clean it, and does the job for a decent price.

Badger Patriot 105

Master's Compressor with good reviews

For both, it's about 200$.

I'd also look into the Master's Painting Hood (Link).

I'm willing to answer any questions on what shit to buy, so feel free to ask.

You don't need airbrush cleaner, but it's cheap, lasts forever, and you'll want to have it around. You won't just use it to clean your airbrush, but anything you spill paint on, including yourself. It cuts through paint like nobodies business. So it's well worth keeping around.

I use GW paints and water them down with Airbrush Medium rather than water. Again, it's cheap and lasts freaking forever.

I just started after 20+ years, literally got my stuff yesterday in the mail. I decided to go warhammer 40k, space wolves.

I read alot before I made any decision, these two links helped me a bit:

http://www.reddit.com/r/warhammerFAQ/comments/1nzxps/the_definitive_guide_to_getting_started_in/

http://www.reddit.com/r/warhammerFAQ/comments/1nzzag/the_definitive_guide_to_getting_started_in/

From a painting perspective I started with these:

http://www.reddit.com/r/warhammerFAQ/comments/msf23/guide_to_painting_warhammer_models_part_i/

http://www.reddit.com/r/warhammerFAQ/comments/mtz5u/guide_to_painting_warhammer_models_part_ii/


I also watched a TON of painting tutorials and product reviews on youtube.

That being said, here's what i've got so far:

Brushes:

Windsor and Newton Series 7 size 00, 0, 1
Army painter wargamer regiment - for base coating stuff

Paints/Modeling Materials:

I went with citadel b/c Im following the codex color scheme. GW has paint bundles for the type of army you are building. Many others use Vallejo and reaper paints as well.

Green stuff/liquid green stuff - I need to buy this to fill in some gaps I have in my models.

Tools:
Xacto knife and blades

Micro clippers - http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1427198666&sr=8-3&keywords=micro+clippers

There are many other tools you can get, depends on how far you want to go. Hopefully it helps.

That looks like a good lamp but it doesn't appear that Amazon sells it in the U.S.

I found this one, I'm thinking of getting it.

https://www.amazon.com/Daylight-U32500-Triple-Bright-White/dp/B0052OT64K

Mainly because I saw someone using something similar to paint on camera at Adepticon and it looked really good.

I use this lamp and I absolutely love it.

Totally worth it. There is a learning curve for sure, so if you keep it simple in the beginning with zenithal light technique, it will do wonders for your models and keep your sanity at the same time.
When you do get one, make sure you get a compressor that has a tank. I had one that did not and it was not usable. Also, a mosture trap is a must. posted a couple links for some reasonably priced brush and compressor that has the above mentioned features

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-Purpose-Dual-Action-Professional/dp/B002KJDXHQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458420341&sr=8-1&keywords=airbrush

http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458420440&sr=8-2&keywords=airbrush+air+compressor

One thing you can do it get a .005 fine point pen, and make little marking on the scrolls easy way to put writting on them. Sample pen

This compressor

With one of these airbrushes [badger 105](Badger Air-Brush Co. 105 Patriot Fine Gravity Airbrush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WG48BbRAZVATA) or [badger krome](Badger Air-Brush Company RK-1 Krome Airbrush 2-in-1 Ultra Fine Airbrush with Additional Fine Tip, Spray Regulator and Needle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078MEXX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EI48Bb3DAG4C5)

If you are molding by hand I would suggest a set of carving tools.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SVRSRY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

By "Imperial Guard Book" do you mean the omnibus? If not -
Fifteen Hours by Mitchel Scanlon - Read this book if you find yourself getting worn out on the ol' 40k literature flaw of "The protagonist of this book is an invulnerable powerhouse who can defeat anybody ever." Fifteen hours is a paperback kick in the pants about a lowly guardsman trying not to die on the front lines of a planet he's not even supposed to BE on. It can also be found in the Imperial Guard Omnibus.

I second the votes for Eisenhorn, it'll make your Ravenor experience even better (coming from somebody who read Ravenor then Eisenhorn, I wish I had done it the other way around).

Pick up some dental picks/tools or clay working thingums. These for example.

They'll help with smoothing of green stuff and shaping without leaving fingerprints.

Hey!

If you're using water, sometimes you gotta keep mixing it up so the pigment actually stays in the mixture. I recommend Lahmian medium, or Flow Aid for thinning down paints. Also try a wet palette!

To blend colours you want to glaze the highlights. You can do this by snagging a glazing medium, or just thin the shit out of your paint and go over the levels of highlight. Normally you'd want a mix of your darkest and lightest colour when doing this.

I try to paint the entire model, but don't bother with things that will never see the light of day. I paint for tabletop quality, so that's that.

If I'm disappointed I try again! That's why test models are important.

I like this one a lot.

Thin your paints further. Also try Liquitex Professional Airbrush Effects Medium instead of water to thin paints. I got it because someone here posted a link that had this stuff as a solution on how to thin metallics and not end up with a separated paint. Tried it on normal non-metallic paints and it worked fantastically. You can use it with or in a wet-palette too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPzSzCU9X5Q&feature=youtube_gdata_player


Its not a GW model he's working on but this will explain the basic concept you need to understand and the tools that will be involved.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082EQXLG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_.Vogtb0P1XC9B

That's basically the citadel pin vise without the markup. I use one similar for my pinning projects. As a side note if you have a knockoff xacto with the cross chuck it works just fine with some dremel bits. I'm lucky to have a dremel kit laying around to steal bits from.

I would suggest a Master G233. Cheap and pretty goddamn durable. I can't really comment on compressors though, I use a large tank compressor.

Raphael Kolinsky Sable size 0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Z7743U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ja4RCbTC0Z5NX

This one?

The three things I can't live without:
[Chisel-tip Gundam Marker] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gundam-Marker-GM10-Black-GUNPLA/dp/B006B44EME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421527040&sr=8-1&keywords=GM10+marker)
[Swann-Morton Size 3 Scalpel] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Morton-scalpel-handle-No-10a-blades/dp/B004OIAVJY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421527127&sr=8-1&keywords=swann+morton+scalpel)
[Pigma Micron Pen] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pigma-Micron-Pen-005-0-2mm-Black/dp/B001CRI6O2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421527155&sr=8-1&keywords=micron+005+pen)
I use the gundam marker to paint the edges of bases, the scalpel as my hobby knife, and the micron pen for purity seals etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Models-Stuart-Light-Tank/dp/B00VTE0VJQ/ref=pd_sim_21_10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R7YZQXZCNXYJGFQWPKEQ

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Howitzer-Motor-Carriage-Figures/dp/B004C441B4/ref=pd_sim_21_16?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R7YZQXZCNXYJGFQWPKEQ

https://www.amazon.com/Lindberg-scale-German-Armored-SD-KFZ/dp/B000XQ2K3G/ref=pd_sim_21_51?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R7YZQXZCNXYJGFQWPKEQ

https://www.amazon.com/35-US-M41-Walker-Bulldog/dp/B00061HJ7U/ref=pd_sim_21_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G5SYE2FY4CJHVJRY89VN

https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Flow-Effects-Medium/dp/B000KNPM46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536077428&sr=8-1&keywords=liquitex+flow+improver

Since he's airbrushing, using protection is a good idea. When I'm spraypainting primer (even with normal cans), I'll wear a decent mask too.

And gloves are not just protection, they also prevent your hands from looking gross when you go to work the next day.