(Part 2) Top products from r/Warmachine

I put the card in a flexible sleeve, and then put that sleeve in a top loader(ie, hard sleeve).

The flexible sleeve keeps it moving inside the top loader. The soft sleeves are just cheap ones that are like $3 for more than you'll ever need, and then the top loaders were like $10 for like 100. I store the cards I don't use in a binder of pocket pages(often already in the soft sleeves).

I hear good things about clear dragon shields if you're interested in only soft sleeves. I like the durability of top loaders, and for storing I like pages so I can easily organize things without having to constantly shuffle through or reorganize cards.

Here's a link to an ultra pro top loader/soft sleeve combo

You want Vallejo Pale Grey Blue: http://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Pale-Greyblue-Paint-17ml/dp/B000PHCNYO/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1419068312&sr=1-3&keywords=vallejo+pale+grey+blue

It looks as white as white but coats much better. I know that the image makes it look super grey, but trust me: when you paint it on a model that sucker looks white. Of course, it's a cool white, so if you're looking for a warm white it won't do the job. In the latter case I'd recommend Menoth White Highlight.

Plastic glue works by melting plastics together. However, PP plastics are actually a resin, so it won't work. Think of PP Plastics like Finecast (if you're familiar with GW stuff which I assume you are from having citadel glue).

Loctite gel is great. but I've recently switched to "hot stuff" and it is amazing. Sets quickly, and comes in a few strengths but I use the strongest stuff only.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O3TNK/ref=sr_rp_1?m=ANLPKUK4M0QOA&ie=UTF8&qid=1450553110&sr=sr-1&keywords=hot+stuff+super+glue

I'm new to the hobby as well, but I like this set of brushes. It's only $15 and comes with 5 sizes and they seem high quality. I've seen the Da Vinci brand recommended by more experienced painters as well.

Other than that so far I've used the x-acto knife quite a bit. Super glue of some kind (Can't imagine that it matters much. I use one I got at a local game store and also got some accelerant that makes it dry almost instantly).

I got the Iron Kingdoms set of paints from Privateer Press which has basic metal colors and black/white. And then the faction set of paints (Khador for me). I also got some Secret Weapon Armor Wash and Heavy Body wash for washing (filling in crevices to give a more 3d look). And I just picked up some Rhulic Gold and Molten Bronze from PP on the recommendation of a tutorial at HandCannonOnline.

A really good looking and easy way to make your bones look better is paint them with Vallejo Ivory (a sort of off white color) then wash it with Vallejo Sepia (which will turn the model a dirty white / brown) then dry brush with Games-Workshop Praxeti White.

This will give you a nice aged bone appearance and look more organic.

For your metalics, you can wash these in Games-Workshop Nuln Oil to achieve a really good 'used' metal look

Here's an example of how I do bones and also here

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74041-Electric-Handy-Drill/dp/B000J46WZ4
This is my main work horse for pinning. Works great with the 1.25 privateer drill set. So much better than doing it by hand.

I think that's an awesome starting plan. After you get the hang of it, and start making other model purchases, you can start new painting techniques.

I really recommend getting yourself a set of helping hands.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NQ4Q4C/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1343171890&sr=8-1

I went the DIY route and have been happy with the outcome for a few months now.

You can purchase cuatomizeable foam from someone like Pelican. Then purchase a cheap big plastic toolbox. Cut to fit.

Although there's all kinds of branded equipment (from pin vises to knives to files) specifically for minis, you usually don't need to get the "official" stuff. Cheap pin vises (for drilling and pinning) can be found at any hobby shop, and my $5 set of files works splendidly.

That said, I did get the official wet pallette simply because it was much smaller than any non-branded ones and takes up less bench space. And, admittedly, I'm ok with paying for the convenience of pre-measured pallette sheets. If you wanted to try out painting with a wet palette (and you should!), you can make your own pretty easily.

You might also consider putting something over the table/desk/whatever you work on. So you don't get paint on it or accidentally cut into it with exacto knives. I just use a desk pad that I found at staples. That way I can also write notes to myself on it.

I, and most people I see who use them, use a laser level which you can find in most any hardware store or, of course, online.

As an added bonus, they make deployment a breeze (see player on left). Just measure your 7" or 10" close to one table edge, lay the laser down at that point, and measure again along the opposite edge to make sure it's...well...level. Then you can quickly and accurately deploy your models without constantly remeasuring or relying on a scattering of dice/markers.

I bought a third party one.

http://www.amazon.com/Paint-Palette-Keeps-Paints-Airtight/dp/B000C18GTE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1346375215&sr=8-2&keywords=wet+pallet

That one. It works great. same as the PP one basically but without the flimsy hinge, and it had prime shipping!

Back when I was magnetizing bases I used rare earth magnets, hot glue, a metal baking sheet and a silicon parchment paper like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Supply-Inch-Parchment-Paper/dp/B00004RKFR/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1435163442&sr=8-9&keywords=baking+liner

I set up my baking pan and liner and followed these steps:

put a glob of hot glue on the pan (with silicon sheet)

put a magnet int he middle of that glob

put glue in the bottom of the miniatures base

put the miniature on the magnet and glue

when dry, peel away from the silicon sheet.

the magnet floats in the solidified glue. the whole process only takes a few minutes.

To clarify, I am speaking of this 2005 release: http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Kingdoms-World-Guide-Roleplaying/dp/097069704X

Assorted tank equipment
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O2ZH6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_zZeMzbZDCVBQM

Vehicle accessories
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WNCFNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_40eMzb7XYZJWD

Military pinups in case anyone else wants to turn this thing into a trencher cake
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WSUO9SO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_p1eMzbEMFMY4S

Casting tutorial

Mold making kit

Debonder. You can get it at any hobby store or from Amazon.

Go for it! This was just some GF9 flocking\rocks and some green stuff to hold the crystal which was this from amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002A9UJU/ I think you could get a 40mm sized crystal and it would work too.

Did my first game with this on the table tonight with the Recon scenario. Never once used it, however it did get focused to hell and died to corrosion on the top of turn 3.