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So, we avoid undercoat rakes and combs on the advice of our breeder (don't want to pull out or cut any of the active undercoat). It took us a while to really get that she was right (at least for our pup), but it is what we've had the best luck with. We use a metal comb to do the line-comb technique as /u/cpersall suggests, and then we finish with just a normal human pin-brush (which he likes quite a bit) for the topcoat. We also brush him at least every other day while we're watching TV of the evening.

You asked about shampoo and such: we've had enormous luck with The Stuff spray in conditioner while we're brushing him out. Makes him look purty (seriously got so many compliments at the herding-dog park parties that we now have half the town using it on Corgis, Aussies, and BCs). We've been using AvoDerm for shampoo (about once every two-three weeks depending on how much mud he's gotten into). Aussies tend to be great self-groomers. We only really give him baths when he's muddy and we don't want it in bed or on the couch. Also he loves bathtime, so sometimes I give him 'baths' sans shampoo on hot days. Drying off with the towel is the Best Game Ever!

I'm in Wisconsin, fromm is great but expensive ($60 for 33lbs), American Premium Natural is another good one that is not quite as expensive ($50 for a 40lb bag). Fish or lamb has worked best, fish if they get gassy.

Sauerkraut is fantastic if they ever get an upset stomach.

On mobile so not formatting the link. Bag of puppy food on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000WFKTZ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1463707088&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fromm+puppy+food&dpPl=1&dpID=41O0WwsSi6L&ref=plSrch

Just to add my two cents, I've found the Furminator removes a lot of fuzz but it's uncomfortable for the pup and may remove too much of their undercoat.

Ideally, you want something that removes loose clumps and de-tangles knots. The dogs shed plenty on their own, your brushing should just keep their coats clean and silky.

My aussies' favorite brush is this Safari undercoat rake. It's way cheaper than the $50 Furminator, removes a ton of fuzz, and it's much easier to brush with. The teeth don't poke or tug so my guys love it, they'll even roll over and ask for extra brushies, something they've never done with wire-toothed or Furminator-style brushes.

Thanks! He's wearing a PetSafe Easy Walk Harness (the green one)..these things are amazing and I highly recommend them. They attach at the chest so you can control their movments easier and it prevents your pup from pulling while you walk them. He's also wearing a RuffWear Track Jacket because we were going on a hike in the woods later that day.

For the money, I've found these to be the best discs : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012OBWAA/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've gone through 4-5 other brands and never got more than the 2-3 months I get from these. They get chewed up within a week or two, but stay together and we still get a good 40-50' throw up to the end.
Also, Rhett likes them because they relatively soft and flexible and won't tear up her mouth.

Like others have said, crate train. Wrangler hated his crate the first time I put him in it, so go slowwww. Tips:

• Get a crate that's only big enough to let him stand up and turn around. Chewy sells a crate that has a divider so you can increase his space as he grows.
  
• Feed them near/in the crate. Play near the crate. When he sleeps, place him in the crate with the door open. Teach him that the crate isn't scary.
  
• Go SLOW. Start with closing the door for two seconds, then five seconds, ten seconds, etc. Do not open the crate if he whines or barks. Only open it up once he settles down. This may take a while.
  
• When introducing them to the crate, come back and leave the room to let them know that you're not abandoning them. Talk to them, but don't speak in a calming voice because it might teach them they have something to be afraid of. Speak in a regular tone.
  
• Don't use puppy pads! This will teach them to go inside the crate/house and is apparently a hard behavior to break. Yes, it is different than them going on a blanket because their scent entices them to go. You're better off just tossing a blanket in the wash.
  
• A puppy can generally hold their bladder/bowls for as many months old that they are plus one extra hour. So eight weeks, three hours. This is a general rule, and not always true, especially when they are in the crate. My 9 week old pup will go 7 hours in his crate before he whines to go outside. So do be prepared to wake up in the middle of the night to go potty. I would get an alarm app on your phone that goes off at a time (within a range you specify) where you are not in the middle of a sleep cycle so you aren't so groggy when you wake up.
  
• Put something with your scent in the crate that he won't rip to total shreds. I'd suggest a sweatshirt with drawstrings removed.
  
• I wrapped a small ticking clock up in a blanket to mimic a heartbeat to comfort my MAS. We then upgraded to a Snuggle Puppy
  
  I read a good crate training guide online, but I can't find it. When I do I will post it!

Just an FYI - this comment was auto-removed because referral links aren't allowed. If you want to post something from amazon, it needs to be chopped down to just the item number, like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/

My dogs all love playing with Jolly Balls, they tend to last a very long time too.

Both our Aussies have gentle walk harnesses. Has helped greatly with our puller and makes walks super enjoyable. Plus no neck worries.

http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1405528084&sr=1-1&keywords=easy+walk+harness

https://www.amazon.ca/Deshedding-Grooming-Dramatically-Shedding-GUARANTEED/dp/B00CD0H1ZC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1462398946&sr=8-4&keywords=furminator found this, on sale for who knows how long but seems pretty comparable.

It’s from amazon ! He does like it but he’s ripped up one of the sides so the mat doesn’t really stick too well to the floor now.

My go to tool is just a plain ordinary comb, like this but mine has a handle. I've talked with other Aussie owners and breeders and it seems like a comb and a slicker brush are the tools to use.

The comb does the best job of any tool I've tried (I used to work at a pet store and have tried almost everything) without damaging their coat. It gets right down to the undercoat, pulls up the loose stuff, gets out tangles and mats or sticks or burs.

For technique, check out how to line comb.

I'm sorry, I don't have much good advice, just the fact that I commiserate with you.

Ours is two years old, and we've trained almost all other problems out of him except this one. If ANYONE shows our aussie any attention, he jumps up on them -- and he's 85 pounds. It's so frustrating.

Trainers always tell you to try and catch the jumping just before it happens. Ours gave us a pet corrector:

https://smile.amazon.com/Pet-Corrector-Behavior-Training-Harmless/dp/B000UCH02O/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1523971685&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=pet+corrector&psc=1

The idea is that as your dog jumps up, you spray this thing (away from the dog -- it's just compressed air) and the spray makes the same warning sound as a snake. The first time, it worked like a charm ... our dog backed off immediately and layed down. Magic. Trouble is, he got used to it (even though I only used it sporadically) and it stopped working after a month.

I've also heard that you should have the dog on some kind of soft leash ALWAYS in the house, so that if he does jump, you can grab the leash and pull him back immediately.

I've also watched other people ONLY GIVE ATTENTION when four paws are on the floor, and when there are four paws on the floor, you feed treats continuously. Want to make it a very big deal that the dog is NOT jumping, so you reward like crazy.

Our dog kind of taught himself that when we come through the front door, instead of jumping on us it's ok with us if he goes immediately and gets a toy ... then he gets positive attention. This sorta works.

Keep in mind they're dual coated. I use an undercoat pin rake and a slicker bush. I believe this gets both coats.

A lot of dematteing brushes work by cutting the hair, which you might need for heavily matted fur. But if you brush regularly then you shouldn't get a cutting rake. This is just what I've read, but there is a lot of conflicting i information out there.

Undercoat Rake with Rotating Pins https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIRYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9xgcBbAG6VCQB

Slicker Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010FEGHFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dFgcBbSXQR4HR

I also use a steel comb for sensitivs areas like behind the ears Andis Pet 7-1/2-Inch Steel Comb (65730) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UTDHP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jGgcBb1PA9TQ2

For this kind of fluff, I would just trim behind the ears with some thinning shears. That way he'll still have the fur on his cheeks but will have less volume without the weird blunt-ness from scissors.

It's called an undercoat rake.. I made this video for OP after he (or she) asked for a comparison between the rake and a furminator:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGbdNySlfQk

Here is the pictured rake: http://www.amazon.com/Oster-Professional-Grooming-Undercoat-Coarse/dp/B00061MWJ0

I watched a groomer video recently and found all of these from her video

• http://smile.amazon.com/Coastal-Pet-Safari-Undercoat-Designed/dp/B0083TSC64
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Steel-Large-Grooming-Style-Ideal/dp/B00Y1NN5TK
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Safari%C2%AE-Dual-Sided-Stainless-Steel-Shedding/dp/B0002ARR22
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Your-Dog-078279-102-Combo-Brush/dp/B00ICB3OWU
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Wahl-Large-Slicker-Brush-858407/dp/B002GKRAWI

This is the brush that we used. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CD0H1ZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A large part of grooming is personal preference. They have outdoorsy coats that don't require frequent maintenance. Some Aussies coats are sort of water and dirt resistant (not to say they won't get dirty but rather it flakes off easily without your personal intervention).

I primarily focus on reducing the quantity of hair balls in my house. This take brush was suggested by a fellow member of this subreddit. Aside from that I trim the excess dirt between their paws and underneath it once in a blue moon.
http://www.amazon.com/Oster-Professional-Grooming-Undercoat-Coarse/dp/B00061MWJ0
http://i.imgur.com/vnw0QJ2.jpg

Furminator gets mixed results. A lot of people say it ruins the coat and is bad for the skin. I personally don't cut any of the hair on my Aussie except for that sanitary trim around her butt. But as Lynolis says, cutting the feathers and the long ear hairs shouldn't be a problem.

I have a metal long comb, a slicker brush, and an undercoat rake. I almost use the undercoat rake exclusively. This is the one I have http://www.amazon.com/Evolution-W6110-Grooming-Undercoat-Rotating/dp/B0002DIRYG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1397569879&sr=1-1 I got the double row one. It's awesome!