Top products from r/Windows10

We found 65 product mentions on r/Windows10. We ranked the 208 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/Windows10:

u/omniscient_zero · 2 pointsr/Windows10

Buy an SSD and clean install Windows with the media creation tool. I've been refurbing old notebooks with cheap 120GB Kingston solid-state drives to give away, and even though they are complete trash spec wise (i3/4GBDDR4) they run great for basic work and school tasks.

​

This is the drive I use for refurbs, it's only $20: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C

u/etacarinae · 1 pointr/Windows10

> Or if that soul of yours is particularly shiny: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-B75-00001-IntelliMouse-Explorer/dp/B00002JXBI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479259095&sr=8-2&keywords=intellimouse+explorer

Dude. The most comfortable mouse of all time. So good that zowie, razer and steelseries have all copied and iterated on it. I cannot believe Microsoft do not still make this mouse. Even the Habu was great.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/Windows10

This is of course good advice generally, but I'm pretty sure Amazon is an authorized retailer:

Windows 10 Home on Amazon

u/meatwad75892 · 1 pointr/Windows10

> I've been looking online for a key but see some for 30-45 dollars on some sketchy looking sites. Amazon has them for a 100 bucks so I can only assume it's sketchy with that big of a price difference.


That is because these "sketchy" sites are not actually selling licenses. Keep in mind that a license is not analogous to a key. Licensing refers to your legal right to use the software. A key is simply the means by which Windows may be activated.


If anyone is selling you a key for $20-60, it is extremely likely that they have simply amassed product keys from volume sources and are profiting off of them. This is not within compliance of any Microsoft licensing terms whatsoever. You can buy a key through these dodgy channels and it will activate Windows just fine most of the time. But in no way, shape, or form did you actually purchase a legitimate license.


Long story short, if you're building a PC, you need to license it properly. This means buying a Windows license from an authorized source. (Directly from Microsoft, Amazon, Newegg, CDWG, etc etc) I recommend buying the Full edition (not OEM) so that you may move the license to any new hardware in the future. OEM licenses are per-machine and non-transferable per the OEM EULA, whereas Full licenses are legally transferable assuming you remove Windows from the previous machine.


https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468778301&sr=8-2&keywords=windows+10

u/willy-beamish · 1 pointr/Windows10

Yup, minimum requirements:

Processor: 1 gigahertz (GHz) or faster processor or SoC.

RAM: 1 gigabyte (GB) for 32-bit or 2 GB for 64-bit.

Hard disk space: 16 GB for 32-bit OS 20 GB for 64-bit OS.

Graphics card: DirectX 9 or later with WDDM 1.0 driver.

Display: 800x600.


HIGHLY recommend an SSD. Even if you’re strapped for cash, something like this is only $18 for a 120GB name brand SSD

Kingston A400 SSD 120GB SATA 3 2.5” Solid State Drive SA400S37/120G - Increase Performance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y3twCbFDCWXX9

u/oftheterra · 1 pointr/Windows10

Well, if you are looking to purchase a retail copy of Windows 10 then you can shop around various internet sites for deals.

Newegg - Home

Newegg - Pro

Amazon - Home

Amazon - Pro

If you have a valid Windows 7 or 8 key which you won't be using any more you can use that to get a free upgrade to Windows 10 if you can manage to get it installed on your hardware before July 29th. Just skip the step during installation which asks for your key, and enter the old key during activation after the install. You can use the Windows 10 Media Creation Tool to do the install - it needs either a USB thumbdrive or DVD.

u/Jedi_Ty · 1 pointr/Windows10

I built my own computer and this is where I got mine: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01019BM7O/ref=twister_B013GWSQJA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Note: To download the program you have to have a credit card, though!! They use it to determine you are ordering from within the United States. Because of different program international distribution laws, I guess. If you read up on it, all digital downloads from Amazon requires a credit card, something I didn't know before first attempting it. :(

From what I read also, this copy of Windows 10 is not an OEM version, so it's possible to uninstall it from the computer you installed it on first, and use the same license to install on another computer.

u/Sharp_Eyed_Bot · 1 pointr/Windows10

Ah nuggets, then I'd suggest either this or this

They are still somewhat cheap and should work perfectly with no issues :)

u/Shadestones · 2 pointsr/Windows10

It used to be $120 for the Home edition, but they increased the price this year.

You can buy a single-use OEM license + DVD (not necessary, but it comes with it.) from Amazon, but changing hardware like the Motherboard in the future might cause it to deactivate. It's not as likely anymore, but there's still a risk.

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/OEM-Windows-Home-64-Bit-1-Pack/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U

u/lyrisca · 1 pointr/Windows10

I built my computer from scratch and it's basically been unable to install updates since I put it together. The very first batch may have installed correctly, I can't remember. I have noticed that my (company-maintained, obviously) computer at work has never had any issues with updates, and neither has my laptop (a dual-boot Windows/Linux Mint machine which I clean installed Windows 10 on after attempting to just upgrade from Windows 7 gave me grief). So I'm wondering if it has to do with the method of installation, which in my case was from a Win10 Pro OEM disk I ordered here (risky, I know, but I needed to save money). Or maybe related to my hardware profile.

u/raisinbrandt · 1 pointr/Windows10

The audio jack on the laptop may not be able to accept that connector type. With a headphone/mic combo jack, there is an extra layer specifically for that purpose, which, if the laptop doesn't have it as well, it won't recognize it. Here is a jack that supports headphone and mic. And here is your standard headphone jack. This might be the problem.

Edit: This will probably resolve the issue for you.

u/eRa_Tension · 1 pointr/Windows10

I know you're asking what to do about it other than buy an SSD but there really isn't anything significant. I'd recommend buying this while it's still on sale if you can. I just got mine Sunday and coming from a 7200rpm HDD, it made it almost feel like a new system. It boots in about 15 seconds now and I can open anything right away.

u/4wh457 · 1 pointr/Windows10

It would be better for you to get an SSD. I'm sure you can afford spending 20$ which is all you need for a decent 120gb ssd.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C

u/woze · 18 pointsr/Windows10

Chances are you bought OEM licenses. Those are much cheaper because they are not meant to be transferred to another computer. With an OEM license you're likely to need to buy Windows 10 again in the future when that computer gets replaced.

Retail licenses costs more. The major benefit to retail licenses is they can be transferred to another computer. When the computer gets replaced its license can move over to the new computer. In the long run it can be cheaper.

edit:
OEM Windows 10 Pro on Amazon: $120
Retail Windows 10 Pro on Amazon: $190

u/TheMeII · 1 pointr/Windows10

It doesn't matter if you use it once a week or 16hours a day.

If everything you do with it is in internet or word/excel/write/sheets document creation you won't get anything from 250gb ssd. Those machines are so old that any faster or slower ssd speed is nullified in awfully slow cpu. I'd say buy cheapest 120gb ssd from respectable manufacturer. There's an example for you https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C

u/CouldPossiblyBeABot · 1 pointr/Windows10

You could use miracast for 1 monitor and a wireless HDMI dongle for the 2nd monitor.

https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Wireless-Display-Adapter-P3Q-00001/dp/B01AZC3J3M/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549559640&sr=1-10&keywords=wireless+HDMI

​

Though if you have any way to do it with cables, it's going to be way better.

u/Tobimacoss · 2 pointsr/Windows10

You can just use an HDMI cable from PC to TV, it will allow you to simply screen share, or use the TV as second monitor.

Or you can buy the MS Wireless Display Adapter to give Miracast functionality to your TV.

https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Wireless-Display-Adapter-P3Q-00001/dp/B01AZC3J3M

u/OHScreenwriter · 2 pointsr/Windows10

Then you probably need an adapter like THIS because the headset wire has both the headphone and microphone parts combined.

The adapter splits the two signals. You plug one in your PC headphone jack and the other in your PC microphone or level in jack.

u/jcotton42 · 2 pointsr/Windows10

Bluetooth works fine for me using Bose QC35s and this adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/

u/Jakememe124 · 3 pointsr/Windows10

I think you are gonna have to reinstall Windows.

If you have 20 dollars to spare, you can get one of these usb recovery keys and reset the password. You will need to boot from the USB drive in order for it to work

Here's a Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BO6604S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519613289&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Password+Reset+Key&dpPl=1&dpID=41RRDIgNotL&ref=plSrch

This was featured in a LTT video if you wanna check it out in action.

https://youtu.be/J_JIhn3vJVI

u/DeadlyPirate · 1 pointr/Windows10

is this the same as this? i want to buy it at staples because I got a coupon

u/SiaoAngMoh · 1 pointr/Windows10

You could get an adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/KINGTOP-Headset-Splitter-Computer-Version/dp/B01I3A47KM?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_9

But be careful if you are using Apple earbuds as the positioning of the ground and mic is different (linked adapter doesn’t work for Apple buds).

u/MailmanOdd · 2 pointsr/Windows10

Do you have an Xbox One S controller? I don't believe the "original" Xbox One controllers have bluetooth. You would need to use the Xbox One Wireless Adapter for Windows (https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Adapter-Windows-one/dp/B00ZB7W4QU).

u/Finaldeath · 2 pointsr/Windows10

Ya, that or just using the controller wired. Could also go the route of getting one of the newer controller models but that would be a bit expensive seeing as you already bought a controller.

If you go the adapter route this is the one you would need. https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Adapter-Windows/dp/B00ZB7W4QU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491185173&sr=8-1&keywords=xbox+one+pc+adapter

u/MetalBassFingers · 1 pointr/Windows10

windows 7 would fix the disk usage untill you can get a ssd for windows 10.

u/UnitedStatesStrong · 1 pointr/Windows10

Nope, that motherboard does not have bluetooth built in. You're going to need to buy a "usb dongle" that will enable bluetooth.

Here's a cheap one.

u/GlassDeviant · 0 pointsr/Windows10

Upgrade. 1TB 2.5" and M.2 SSDs are so cheap now. Fits the OS and all my programs with plenty of room to spare, then all the data files can go on the HDD.

Some examples I looked up just now (for reference):

Crucial 1TB M.2 $99

Samsung 1TB 2.5" $140

Samsung 2TB 2.5" $280

u/B93M · 1 pointr/Windows10

TP-Link TL-WN725N Wireless N Nano USB Adapter, 150Mbps, Miniature Design, Plug in and Forget https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CvLSBb216SBRP

We use those ones at work. I carry one in my kit for back up.

There is an Amazon basics one that was less than that. I don't know about the quality.

u/monochrony · 1 pointr/Windows10
  • Speakers in the back in the designated speaker out
  • Heaphones in the front headphone jack
  • 1st line-in in the back panel line-in (black)
    • this is the sound from my second pc
  • 2nd line-in in the front microphone jack (pink)
    • this is the sound from my PS4
  • USB Audio adapter with microphone plugged in

    Windows sound control panel: https://i.imgur.com/KaQNq0b.jpg

    Sorry for the language barrier, my OS is german.

    There's two ways to route my line-in audio to my output devices. The Win32 Realtek HD Audio Manager software allows me to set the playback volume of any line-in without going through extra loops. The awful Realtek Audio Control Windows App doesn't have that option and only allows for adjusting the recording volume. In addition, the app only works with the Realtek HD Universal driver.

    Method 2 is to set the line-ins as "listen to device", which for some reason results in Windows treating them as "apps". Switching beween output or input devices here does exactly nothing. Volume adjustments work, though. That said, both methods won't honor changes to the default playback device until reboot. Setting up the USB audio adapter microphone jack as a line-in like I did with the front panel microphone jack has the same result, which again, is why I think that this is a Windows bug and not driver related.

    The only way to direct the line-in audio to the correct output in an active session is by manually switching between playback devices in the sound control panel, which of course I have to do for both line-ins whenever I want to alternate between speakers and headphones. Annoying.

    As I've said, switching between default playback devices worked perfectly fine until the upgrade. In my research I found this person having the same issue with the 2016 creators update. Sadly, with no solution. Also these redditors having the same issue since a month ago. I've spend hours trying to fix the issue to no avail.
u/ptrkhh · 1 pointr/Windows10

> Na dude, i win

You do realize its used, right?

> And why exactly do i want all of that in a laptop when i have my phone?

Why exactly do you need a 1050 in a laptop when you can buy a 1050 desktop for much cheaper? Heck, fuck the 1050, why exactly do you need a display in your laptop when you have it in your phone?

u/michaelquaintance · 3 pointsr/Windows10

For 13? Hell no. Stay away from that.

If you want Amazon, get the real thing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSHDJ4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.OrJzbNW9NZHP

When you see Windows/license keys for dirt cheap, they're almost always guaranteed to be counterfeit.

u/galaxyagent · 1 pointr/Windows10

Sorry then. I don't think I can help you then. :(
Perhaps change your wifi card? Or try this usb wifi receiver or something similar?

I have owned a similar receiver made by the same company but with antenna. I don't think it requires driver. (In fact, the software that came with it made everything worse, so don't install it if you can.) I think(it has been a long time, so don't quote me on that) it worked with my broken window 10 laptop. It's only 7 dollars, so I think you should try it as a temporary solution if you can.