Top products from r/WranglerTJ

First, congrats on a well picked first vehicle, you'll never forget her! Protip, don't ever sell or you will regret it!

1. Follow others tips about changing all fluids. I'll add that if you're not thrilled with the idle/throttle response then clean the throttle body and idle air controller (easy to take off) and replace the spark plugs with Autolite XP985 Iridium. A note about oil, stick with NON synthetic, I was VERY skeptical of many who said don't use synthetic and twice now I've put mobile 1 10-30 in a new to me TJ and twice it started leaking soon after. Just use Valvoline 10-30, change it every 3k (5k if you drive a lot of hwy) and it'll run for 300k. Also use "lube lockers" on the dif covers after changing the fluid, makes a huge difference next time you want to change the fluid (no rtv mess).
   
   
2. Take off the milk jugs front and back (plastic pieces on the ends of the bumpers). It improves the look 10 fold! Google TJ end caps, they sell cheap flat plastic replacement pieces to complete the look.
   
   
3. As someone said, detail the jeep and the engine bay, awesome vid for detailing engine bay here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRSoRkM8GcM
   
   
4. I recommend sticking with superficial mods at first (stereo, little cosmetics, detailing) and ENJOY it in stock form. Too many people jump into modding the suspension and end up hating the way it drives. You can mod it and have it drive well but you gotta know what you're doing (trust me, had 4 of them). If you do have to mod, stick with 31" tires and don't exceed a 2" (true 2", like budget pucks or springs that are actually 2", many are more than 2") lift. Rancho RS5000X shocks for SURE, nothing else, you'll love the way it rides (make sure it's the "x" model, the non "x" are crap). Oh and if you happen to have the 3.07 gears and a manual (I'm sorry), maybe don't go above 30" tires. Anything else and you'll be fine with 31's. Make sure the 31's are LOAD RANGE C or you'll hate the ride. For 31's, air them down to 30psi. If you wanna go beyond 31's, DO YOUR RESEARCH FIRST!
   
   
5. These LED headlights are a steal, quality, and look great...
   https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019I0UBLU/ref=dp_cerb_1
   Awesome upgrade. See here for mine...
   https://imgur.com/a/gl38DhC
   
   Lastly, wranglertjforum.com is a great and easy to navigate resource. Any questions about specific fluids or parts, google it, there will be LOTS of info. Also you can fix ANYTHING wrong with a TJ, so relax, learn, and enjoy, and when the warm weather comes, TAKE THOSE DOORS OFF!

I can try to take pictures. It might be a couple days, since I probably don't want to disassemble it tonight when I get home later, and it'll already be dark out.

Anyway, I have this amp. It has a Bluetooth receiver directly in it, so that's just what I connect my phone to. It was pretty easy to follow the wiring diagram and unwind the stock speaker wire from the old stereo adapter into this.

Once I had the new harness all wired up, underneath the steering wheel (in a 98 TJ, at least) is a plastic panel that's 3-4 screws to come undone. It slides off to reveal a metal panel that protects the underside of the steering wheel, which is another 4-6 screws, I think. With that off, I played with the steering column to make sure all the moving elements were self contained, and then zip tied the amp to the bottom of the column itself.

Screwing in the metal plate secured it pretty thoroughly and the whole thing is invisible behind the plastic cover plate (I was able to run the wires behind the dash from where the stereo used to be and it comes with a wired remote which I ran in the opposite direction (it sits on the top of my dash center column, by the middle fan vents, but that was easier to put there since I have a big gap where the old stereo used to be).

The remote's buttons are big and squishy, which makes it super easy to control the volume and playing. For more detailed controls, I have the phone mounted in the spot where the old stereo was, and I can either use voice controls or pick it up if I need to.

I upgraded the speakers (fronts and in the soundbar) at the same time and it puts out more power than I need. I'd be a bit worried about it blowing stock speakers on my 98.

This amp is designed for a boat, so if you want to connect a standard car stereo head unit, you need to convert those wires to RCA inputs, which is doable, but you could probably find a more traditional car amp that supports Bluetooth if you looked around.

I got the Milwaukee 2767-20 specifically because that model sports moderately higher torque than other apparently similar Milwaukee impacts (as of several years ago - maybe new models are even more powerful). I also got the 2719-20 Hackzall which has a brushless motor (apparently what "Fuel" means). However, my dad has the standard-motor 2625-20 Hackzall which is significantly cheaper and works just as well - so I think I'd recommend that one instead.

You might consider picking up replacement bolts before you attack the originals. Even if you do get them out, I think there's a good chance they'll be unusable after you're done. Not sure if they're M12, 1/2", or something else, but any hardware or big-box home store will have something you can use to replace them. Grade 5 (standard) or 8.8 (metric) would almost certainly be fine, but I suppose grade 8 or 12.9 couldn't hurt.

Last but not least, some folks go bonkers over the thought of driving a TJ on the road with disconnected sway bar(s). I DD'd my TJ for 3 months on Atlanta interstates with both sway bars disconnected. It handled like a big ol' town car. I do recommend sway bars for highway driving, but my TJ did not spontaneously flip, wobble, skid, oversteer, understeer, or combust.

Wow that sucks my man

Its just fiberglass. You could have it done by any auto or boat repair place, or just get yourself a little glass mat, resin and hardner, and patch it up yourself. Its surprisingly easy. link for material

Prep is everything with fiberglass, sand and clean the area with acetone or tackcloth. Follow the directions on the fiberglass application. Have some acetone on hand to clean up anything before the resin sets. Touch it up with a little paint after it cures.

Might not turn out beautiful but it'll do the job and be a great intro to fiberglass!

uxcell Universal Chrome Street Bike Cruiser Motorcycle Rearview Mirrors 10mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PZO8OK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_THYyUerHxPuUK

I painted these with bed liner and love them. They work great even tho they are designed for a motorcycle.

It's likely this. I have the same problem. There's an easy way to know for sure. If you hear the noise, press down or pull up on the 4WD shift selector and it should go away temporarily. Usually it comes from a worn bushing and won't effect anything other than banging around and making noise. I bought this kit to repair it but I never got around to actually installing it. I've kind of gotten used to it. I just push in of pull out the selector a little bit when it gets on my nerves.

However, I have read from some people that sometimes they will slip out of 4WD from this problem. Drive around somewhere safe in 4WD a bit to see if there's some slippage. If that's your case, then you should definitely repair it.

Ended up with a Pioneer head unit (their FM radio receiver blows others away for reception), and a Clarion XC2510 amp, which fits nicely behind the dash, completely hidden! Replaced the center console sub with a Kicker (driven by the Clarion) and 4 Polk speakers (with dash-pods in front). Not perfect, but a huge improvement!

Speaking to the AX15, mine refuses to engage properly, especially in the Colorado winters, without be filled with MT-90. I thought I was going to have to do full rebuild, but just that MT-90 made it good enough. 190,000 miles and only other maintenance has been clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing and slave cylinder (all done together).

This is the one I got. A little overkill, but I wanted the extra support. I drilled extra holes to get it adjusted just right. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO8RVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZR61BbAPDV32Q

The bulky spot on the bottom left is where I had excess. I could've avoided it with better planning but I wanted the tape on the bottom. It took 1x 2 pack of wraps to get it done with about 8-10" of excess which I just double wrapped. The wraps cost me $14, I like the look of the cork. Got them on amazon here. Looking for brown/tan electrical tape to put over the black.

I cut the existing cover off. I had to custom cut some pieces for where the outside connects to the inside. I recommend starting on the passenger side below the cruise and working counter clockwise. You'll have to sister the pieces together at the same place on the other side and then your taped end will be on the inside of the vehicle. Or you could get one double length piece if that's possible. I have never used handlebar tape before this.

Just from lots of reading, use a wire brush or wheel to get rid of as much as you can, then use something like this:

VHT SP229 Rust Convertor Can - 10.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NUABUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tOk3Bb27VP13R

It does!!! But brace yourself. It's fucking expensive.

Speed Dawg M504JP-EBK-6RDR-UM Jeep Officially Licensed 6 Speed Reverse Lower Right Shift Knob for 2007-2018 Wrangler JK, Red/Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NLYD735/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jhWvDbJ4SFFMJ

DEPO Smoke Front Bumper Signal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AHDQAJE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

DEPO 1997-2006 Jeep TJ Wrangler... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FGNUSS4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

So sorry, I was also confused I purchased these lol

Darice EYE-6 2-Piece Adhesive Wiggly Eyes for Craftwork, 6-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MA6Z912/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_svIvCbV3XVPC0

i use the bosch icons. they are a little pricey, but i get no streaks and no noise. they been on my jeep for 2 years and they preform like when i first put them on.