Top products from r/XTerra

We found 32 product mentions on r/XTerra. We ranked the 121 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/XTerra:

u/money4nothin · 1 pointr/XTerra

The brighter halogen bulbs work well, they are the simplest plug and play option, are DOT approved, but do not last all that long. IMHO the 2 best options are the SYLVANIA 9007 XtraVision and the SYLVANIA 9007 SilverStar. They achieve their brightness by overdriving the filaments so their longevity is shorter than even the standard bulb.
http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-SilverStar-Performance-Halogen-Headlight/dp/B000M5Y72A/4&keywords=headlight+for+xterra

http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-9007-XtraVision-Halogen-Headlight/dp/B000CKGAV6/

The other option if you want brightness and better longevity go with led bulbs. They are a bit more expensive though. The ones in the link below are plug and play and have good reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/Technology-Headlight-Conversion-Halogen-3000LM/dp/B016D84VIY

I ended up going with the XtraVision bulbs and they have been good so far. Noticeably brighter than stock but not too much. I save the LED bar for when I need to light up the trail and not blind other drivers with my headlights.

u/Nine20 · 3 pointsr/XTerra

Ok mobile at the moment do I can't dig too far in but here's some quick results that look like they should work.


[Scosche NN03B Wire Harness to Connect An Aftermarket Stereo Receiver for Select 1995-Up Infiniti/Nissan] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007KPS0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s1NvCbF8GSD2Y)


[Metra Electronics 40-NI12 Antenna Cable to Aftermarket Radio Adapter for Select 2007-Up Infiniti/Nissan Vehicles] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PANZ7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t4NvCbTQJXTKT)

The job was simple enough if you're familiar with wiring. Match the functions of the harness that comes with the stereo with the adapter, crimp then together and bolt it all back together.

One thing to note is that there is no ground in the factory wiring. You will need to run one separately. I'd suggest hitting a bolt to the chassis nearby to minimize any ground loops.

I'm sure you can find a good write up over at the nextera forums if you get stuck.

Another note of caution. The two metal retaining clips in the bezel love to scratch the dash. Cover it with a cloth to save the surfaces.

u/svtguy88 · 1 pointr/XTerra

So, there is a little extra work involved to wire up the factory amp, but it's pretty straightforward. Basically, what you'll end up doing is using the new head units RCA pre-outs to get the signal to the RF amp (rather than use the head unit's internal amplifier). To do this, you need to get a special adapter to convert the factory harness into an RCA connect (or, you could technically attach RCA connectors to the factory wiring, but that's kind of hard to undo should you ever want to put the stock setup back in).

Anyway, here's what you need:

u/autolex84 · 4 pointsr/XTerra

The realistic, "not doing moab every day" answer is a set of the next step up in the Bilstein lineup (5100 series), something that's an improvement but not full on "I can feel the size of the gravel in the pavement" level of suspension diva...

​

Conveniently, Amazon sells/stocks them... Links:

you'll need two of the Fronts and two of the Rears. apologies, rear of xTerra is THIS model.

​

Background: Owner of an 09 xTerra S 4x4 (2010-2014 and 100k+ miles) and current owner of a 12 Pro-4X Frontier (2017 - now, "travel/trip" vehicle, 10k miles?).

​

This was my first "upgrade" on the frontier. $340ish plus tax?

Worth it, and wish i'd done them on the xTerra, it's a better handling platform imho...

u/vaultmaira · 1 pointr/XTerra

To quote another redditor

"It is exactly as difficult as replacing your stock alternator. I'd give it a one scratched knuckle rating. Just watch out for the sharp edges and take your time removing the plug connector from the top of the alternator. If you have a socket set with 14, 12, 10mm and a small flat blade screwdriver for working the clip on that stupid plug you should have all the tools you need.

 1. Unhook the negative battery cable for safety.


 2. Start at the plug on top of the alternator, carefully remove that.

 3. Remove the two wires from the back of the alternator.

 4. Remove the alternator bracket bolt. That is the one that goes front to back at the bottom of the alternator below the pulley, not the adjuster which goes side to side. (take note or a picture of exactly how the bracket bolt goes through the adjuster widget)

 5. The mounting bolts are at the top of the alternator, way up at the ears, hard to see at first. One goes in from the front. One goes in from the back. Loosen them both. Push the alternator toward the motor so the belt can come off the alternator pulley. Get the mounting bolts finger loose without pulling them out. Decide which you can turn by hand easiest while holding the alternator up and take out the other one. Then take out the second one. Do not drop the alternator on your head.

 6. Wiggle the alternator out.

 7. Fish the new alternator up to where you can get one of the mounting bolts started and get it a couple threads in.

 8. Start the other mounting bolt.


 9. Finger tighten those bolts.

 10. Connect the big fat hot wire, connect the ground wire. (mmm, probably should have made sure you have a ground wire bolt that fits before now)

 11. Plug the pluggy plug into the plug receptacle on the back of the new alternator.

 12. Put the bracket bolt back in to place.

 13. Try and get the old belt to fit over the new pulley. It might go. Watch out that you have the belt under the timing pointer above the crankshaft pulley and not riding on top of it like I did.

 14. If the belt won't go on you'll need a slightly longer one. To get to the alternator belt you have to remove the other two belts first. There are idler pulleys that are adjusted from the top (motor side of the radiator, first is obvious, second is a bit to passenger side hiding a bit lower) with 14mm sockets. One for each belt. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. It helps to loosen the bolt through the actual pulley a bit.

 15. Once you have the belt(s) in place, push the alternator by hand away from the motor to tighten belt. Wind the adjuster bolt so that it is snug. Tighten up those mounting bolts you finger tightened earlier. You don't want a lot of play in the alternator belt but too tight is no good either. Start out snug with a little give and adjust later so that is tight enough for the belt not to squeak when the truck starts. (Stop the engine before you try and adjust it, right?).

 16. Count your tools, make sure nothing is left sitting on or in the motor and hook the battery cable back up.

 17. Start the truck.

This is the alternator I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY0B2GM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 although any 1999-2003 Nissan Quest or Mercury Villager alternator should work.

The plastic fixture where the big fat hot wire goes (under the red rubber cap) is a bit different than the Xterra but if you just tighten the nut on down, everything works out."

u/mud1 · 2 pointsr/XTerra

It is exactly as difficult as replacing your stock alternator. I'd give it a one scratched knuckle rating. Just watch out for the sharp edges and take your time removing the plug connector from the top of the alternator. If you have a socket set with 14, 12, 10mm and a small flat blade screwdriver for working the clip on that stupid plug you should have all the tools you need.

  1. Unhook the negative battery cable for safety.
  2. Start at the plug on top of the alternator, carefully remove that.
  3. Remove the two wires from the back of the alternator.
  4. Remove the alternator bracket bolt. That is the one that goes front to back at the bottom of the alternator below the pulley, not the adjuster which goes side to side. (take note or a picture of exactly how the bracket bolt goes through the adjuster widget)
  5. The mounting bolts are at the top of the alternator, way up at the ears, hard to see at first. One goes in from the front. One goes in from the back. Loosen them both. Push the alternator toward the motor so the belt can come off the alternator pulley. Get the mounting bolts finger loose without pulling them out. Decide which you can turn by hand easiest while holding the alternator up and take out the other one. Then take out the second one. Do not drop the alternator on your head.
  6. Wiggle the alternator out.
  7. Fish the new alternator up to where you can get one of the mounting bolts started and get it a couple threads in.
  8. Start the other mounting bolt.
  9. Finger tighten those bolts.
  10. Connect the big fat hot wire, connect the ground wire. (mmm, probably should have made sure you have a ground wire bolt that fits before now)
  11. Plug the pluggy plug into the plug receptacle on the back of the new alternator.
  12. Put the bracket bolt back in to place.
  13. Try and get the old belt to fit over the new pulley. It might go. Watch out that you have the belt under the timing pointer above the crankshaft pulley and not riding on top of it like I did.
  14. If the belt won't go on you'll need a slightly longer one. To get to the alternator belt you have to remove the other two belts first. There are idler pulleys that are adjusted from the top (motor side of the radiator, first is obvious, second is a bit to passenger side hiding a bit lower) with 14mm sockets. One for each belt. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. It helps to loosen the bolt through the actual pulley a bit.
  15. Once you have the belt(s) in place, push the alternator by hand away from the motor to tighten belt. Wind the adjuster bolt so that it is snug. Tighten up those mounting bolts you finger tightened earlier. You don't want a lot of play in the alternator belt but too tight is no good either. Start out snug with a little give and adjust later so that is tight enough for the belt not to squeak when the truck starts. (Stop the engine before you try and adjust it, right?).
  16. Count your tools, make sure nothing is left sitting on or in the motor and hook the battery cable back up.
  17. Start the truck.

    This is the alternator I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY0B2GM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 although any 1999-2003 Nissan Quest or Mercury Villager alternator should work.

    The plastic fixture where the big fat hot wire goes (under the red rubber cap) is a bit different than the Xterra but if you just tighten the nut on down, everything works out.
u/NuJaru · 1 pointr/XTerra

If you have a Gen2 (2005-2015) its a 19mm for lug nuts (or lugnut wrench under rear seat), 14mm for caliper bolts (think the nut on slide pin is 17mm that you might need to hold onto with a wrench if the slide pin spins), 19mm for caliper bracket bolts.

To add, you need something to compress the caliper pistons back in to fit the new pads. Variety of options, use the old brake pad and large pair of plyers or C-clamp, or you can buy a specialty tool (break pad spreader a cheap one like this works fine).

Also you will need brake clean to remove oil coating on new rotors and brake lubricant (assuming your new pads don't come with some) to regrease the slide pins.

A breaker bar or pipe can be useful to break lose the caliper bracket bolts in particular. Also you might need a hammer if the rotor is rust fused to the hub (anti-seize is useful in reassembly if you want to avoid this next time).

Lastly, bungie cords are a great cheap option to hold the caliper as you replace the rotors and pads to make sure it doesn't fall and put tension on brake line.

u/SgtBrowncoat · 5 pointsr/XTerra

Your Amazon link isn't working. What you need is something like this

The hitch is fine for this use as long as you don't try to loop over a hitch ball or just use the pin. Some people will insert the strap into the receiver and just put a pin through it; this can bend the pin, it is best to use an insert like the one I linked to.

u/WombatWithFedora · 1 pointr/XTerra

I use this one I bought off Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X3TRFLJ3ET3A&keywords=bafx+bluetooth+obd2&qid=1563900888&s=gateway&sprefix=bafx+bluertoo%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-3

​

Some of the cheaper ones are not compatible with all of the OBD2 protocols, which is probably why the one you got doesn't work with your XTerra, but this one complains to be compatible with all OBD2 vehicles 1996 and newer. I have used it with a 2000 Cavalier, 2002 Mustang, 2005 XTerra, 2007 Camry, 2012 Tacoma, and 2015 Versa successfully so that is most likely true.

u/lesnb · 1 pointr/XTerra

I have this one installed in my 2nd gen. Fits perfectly and has lots of features, though not the cheapest of the ones posted so far. Good luck!

u/ADKosian · 3 pointsr/XTerra

Is there a specific deck you would recommend that would fit or do i need to get something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFHHGU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1WH4GEGJCQIEN) and pair it with one of these?.

u/DePingus · 2 pointsr/XTerra

Hey that looks nice! I just used a piece of wood and some small C-clamps on mine. I do have this floor mat for my 1 bike.

u/cd_longshanks · 2 pointsr/XTerra

Pertinent info, a crosspost provided this insight regarding better fastening systems

Quick Fist, Quick Grips are those overpriced Irwin clamps.

u/Th3gre3k · 2 pointsr/XTerra

These are what I got and I love them
Bilstein 24-187169 5100 Series Rear Shock for Nissan Xterra 4WD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WO9Q1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ZErgxA1LiOcM2

Bilstein 24-187053 5100 Series Front Shock for Nissan Xterra 2WD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WO9P1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_mfMpcZ4asZXVe

As for installation I don't know I did it myself it's fairly easy.

u/Circle_in_a_Spiral · 1 pointr/XTerra

I have a 2011 Xterra S 4x4 and the standard radio doesn't have an aux input. The optional radio with the 6 CD changer and satellite radio mode has an aux button on the radio and the aux input jack above the cigar lighter on the dash. Your input may be an aftermarket add like this FM modulator device

u/discretion · 1 pointr/XTerra

Lordy, you can run a sawzall off your inverter?

I just got one of these, one of these and a cheap true temper axe and have been served well so far.

u/Lucky72114 · 3 pointsr/XTerra

I use an OBD2 Bluetooth reader and the Torque app on my phone to check codes for my 2007. I use this scanner, seems to work well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(I had cheaper bluetooth reader before that worked on my 2008 Frontier, but didn't work on my Xterra).

u/EliteGinger · 2 pointsr/XTerra

What you mean is an FM modulator... like this: http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

I had one, and they sound like shit, but you can add an AUX to a radio system that didn't previously have one.

u/drunkinthesticks · 3 pointsr/XTerra

would this work for him? $17
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120997428B/Metra-99-7428B-Dash-Kit-Black.html


this has the radio stuff too

https://www.amazon.com/Frontier-2009-2013-Aftermarket-Harness-Antenna/dp/B00DMFHHGU



i’d personally order from crutchfield and just add the antenna to it

u/footsteps71 · 3 pointsr/XTerra

AutoLoc WC1000 One Touch Up And Down Window Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BTQMW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K1h9Ab9T955BA

Maybe this will answer all questions, and if so, I want to do this mod.

u/confusion_and_delay · 1 pointr/XTerra

Getting the the ball joint detached from the spindle is a pain. I bought this and it helped a lot:

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O

I ended up replacing the entire LCA as another user mentioned. With an '08, you'd probably need a reciprocating saw to cut them off if you went that route.