Top products from r/XTerra
We found 32 product mentions on r/XTerra. We ranked the 121 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. iSimple IS31 Antenna Bypass FM Modulator for Factory or Aftermarket Car Radios
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 3
Universal aux audio input for all FM radiosSimply flip the switch.Selectable operating frequencies 87.9 MHz and 88.3 MHzEnjoy the clear, clean audio, Car radio aux input has a sleek, compact designAntenna bypass FM modulator, Play almost any portable device directly through your radioAudio connecti...
2. Bilstein 24-187053 5100 Series Front Shock for Nissan Xterra 2WD
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Bilstein24-187053
3. Premier Gear PG-13821 Professional Grade New Alternator
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 2
Provides protection from excessive charging or failure due to shorts in your car's wiring that can cause spikes or open circuitsConsistent performance from manufacturing processes that exceed your vehicle's original specifications for wiring, bearings and components helping to resist heat and moistu...
4. Scosche NN03B Wire Harness to Connect an Aftermarket Stereo Receiver for Select 1995-Up Infiniti/Nissan
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Connects an aftermarket stereo to the factory radio harnessesNot compatible with factory amplified systemsDirect Connection to the factory harness without cutting any wiresManufactured with factory quality wire and connectorsStandard color coded wires for an easier installation
5. Bilstein 24-187169 5100 Series Rear Shock for Nissan Xterra 4WD
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Package Dimensions: 7.111 H x 67.818 L x 7.874 W (centimetres)Package Weight: 4.700 poundsFit type: Vehicle SpecificCountry of Origin : United States
6. Bafx Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 / OBDII Diagnostic Car Scanner & Reader Tool for Android Devices - Read/Clear Your Check Engine Light & Much More
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
NOT compatible with iOS devices (iPhones, iPads etc) For iOS devices, see our WiFi OBD Reader; This version of our Bluetooth OBD2 scanner and is only compatible with Android or Windows devicesCompatibility - Our OBDII reader will work on all vehicles purchased in the USA model year 1996 or newer; Un...
7. Aftermarket Radio Stereo Double Din Dash Kit w/Wire Harness & Antenna Adapter Compatible with Nissan Frontier Xterra 2009-2012
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Compatible with Nissan Frontier 2009-2012 / Xterra 2009-2012 / Compatible with Suzuki Equator 2009-2012Fits Double Din Aftermarket RadiosWire Harness & Antenna Adapter Included, This a standard wiring harness, it will not work with factory amplified systemsNo Modifications Necessary to Factory dash ...
8. SYLVANIA - 9007 XtraVision - High Performance Halogen Headlight Bulb, High Beam, Low Beam and Fog Replacement Bulb (Contains 2 Bulbs)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
LIGHTS DIM OVER TIME, REPLACE IN PAIRS: Your lights are a pair, one is never turned on without the other. If one bulb burns out, the other isn't far behind. Replace your 9007 XtraVision Halogen bulbs in pairs for optimum performance.MORE DOWNROAD VISIBILITY: XtraVision bulbs have an enhanced downroa...
9. TEKTON 2944 Offset Screwdriver Set, 3-Piece
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Reaches around obstructions to access screws in tough spotsFully knurled handle area provides a sure gripping surfaceOne-piece heat-treated steel construction is strong and simpleCorrosion-resistant chrome plated finish resists rust and easily wipes clean
10. SYLVANIA - 9007 SilverStar Ultra - High Performance Halogen Headlight Bulb, High Beam, Low Beam and Fog Replacement Bulb, Brightest Downroad with Whiter Light, Tri-Band Technology (Contains 2 Bulbs)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
LIGHTS DIM OVER TIME, REPLACE IN PAIRS: Be sure to replace both 9007 headlights at the same time for optimum performance. If one bulb burns out, the other isn't far behind. Replacing in pairs allows for premium visibility.BRIGHTEST 9007 HEADLIGHT = MOST DOWNROAD VISIBILITY: See all aspects of the ro...
11. Sony XAVV10BT 15.7cm (6.2 inch) Media Receiver with Bluetooth SXV300AZV1 Connect Vehicle Tuner Kit for Satellite Radio with Installation Tool
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Connect to your smartphone with BluetoothRear view camera ready for easy parkingSubscription sold separately by Sirius XM. Channel lineup varies based on subscription package.To Get Three Months Free Service You Must Subscribe to the “All Access” package. Provide your radio ID when activating an...
12. END OF ROAD Original Quick Fist Clamp for mounting tools & equipment 1" - 2-1/4" diameter (Pack of 2) - 10010
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Model Number: 10010Item Package Length: 9.49999999031"Item Package Width: 4.49999999541"Item Package Height: 1.49999999847"
13. WARN 62041 Steel Receiver Shackle Bracket D-Ring Mount
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Utilizes a 1 1/4" Class I receiver as a recovery or pulling pointIncludes bracket, hitch pin and shackleIt comes as a D ring mount
14. Kraco K2520GRY Grey Rubber Universal Runner - 1 Piece
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Top quality rubber runnerRaised border for protectionAnti-Skid nib backing
15. OEMTOOLS 25265 Disc Brake Pad Spreader | Replace & Install Brake Pads | Tool Compresses Inner Brake Pads and Resets Caliper Pistons | Good for Cars and Light Trucks | Rust Resistant | Easy to Use
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT is a Lot Easier with the OEMTOOLS Disc Brake Pad Spreader – it’s Great for Compressing Inner Brake Pads and Resetting PistonsIT’S IDEAL for Tight Areas Where C-Clamps Won’t WorkIT CAN BE USED on Cars and Light Trucks (both Domestic and Import)IT RESISTS CORROSION with i...
16. Autoloc WC1000 One Touch Up and Down Window Unit
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
One direction operationCompatible with any window systemWorks off factory window switchesLoad sensor, auto stop, may be used with any remoteMicroprocessor controlled and works with alarms
17. Metra 70-7551 Amplifier Integration Harness 995-2005 Nissan and Infiniti, Standard Packaging
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Plugs into car harness at radioFactory amplifier integration harness for 1995-2005 Nissan and Infiniti vehicles4 RCA plugs plug into the aftermarket radio's pre-amp outputsOne 10-pin power plug and one 6-pin speaker PlugAllows for the installation of an aftermarket radio using the existing factory w...
18. OTC 6295 Front End Service Set for Pitman Arms, Ball Joints, and Tie Rods
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
OTC's Front End Service Set Includes five popular toolsIdeal set for servicing pitman arms, ball joints, and tie rods on most vehiclesIncludes two pitman arm pullers for large or small ball joint applications, two ball joint separators, and three different tie rod pullersRugged construction material...
19. CIPA 49702 2-1/2" x 3-3/4" HotSpots Stick-On Convex Wedge
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Unique wedge shape helps to prevent blind spots when you are passing or changing lanes30 Percent more visibility than round convex mirrorsConvenient stick-on applicationVersatile design fits most cars and trucksIncreased safety with wide angle view
20. Bahco 396-LAP Laplander Folding Saw, 7-1/2 -Inch Blade, 7 TPI
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
General purpose folding saw with an 7-1/2 -inch blade, 7 teeth per inch, for cutting both green and dry wood, plastic, or bone.XT Toothing, 7 TPI. Blade is specially coated for rust protection and low friction.Two-component plastic handle for perfect grip, with leather strap.Specially designed for...
The brighter halogen bulbs work well, they are the simplest plug and play option, are DOT approved, but do not last all that long. IMHO the 2 best options are the SYLVANIA 9007 XtraVision and the SYLVANIA 9007 SilverStar. They achieve their brightness by overdriving the filaments so their longevity is shorter than even the standard bulb.
http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-SilverStar-Performance-Halogen-Headlight/dp/B000M5Y72A/4&keywords=headlight+for+xterra
http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-9007-XtraVision-Halogen-Headlight/dp/B000CKGAV6/
The other option if you want brightness and better longevity go with led bulbs. They are a bit more expensive though. The ones in the link below are plug and play and have good reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/Technology-Headlight-Conversion-Halogen-3000LM/dp/B016D84VIY
I ended up going with the XtraVision bulbs and they have been good so far. Noticeably brighter than stock but not too much. I save the LED bar for when I need to light up the trail and not blind other drivers with my headlights.
Ok mobile at the moment do I can't dig too far in but here's some quick results that look like they should work.
[Scosche NN03B Wire Harness to Connect An Aftermarket Stereo Receiver for Select 1995-Up Infiniti/Nissan] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007KPS0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s1NvCbF8GSD2Y)
[Metra Electronics 40-NI12 Antenna Cable to Aftermarket Radio Adapter for Select 2007-Up Infiniti/Nissan Vehicles] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PANZ7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t4NvCbTQJXTKT)
The job was simple enough if you're familiar with wiring. Match the functions of the harness that comes with the stereo with the adapter, crimp then together and bolt it all back together.
One thing to note is that there is no ground in the factory wiring. You will need to run one separately. I'd suggest hitting a bolt to the chassis nearby to minimize any ground loops.
I'm sure you can find a good write up over at the nextera forums if you get stuck.
Another note of caution. The two metal retaining clips in the bezel love to scratch the dash. Cover it with a cloth to save the surfaces.
So, there is a little extra work involved to wire up the factory amp, but it's pretty straightforward. Basically, what you'll end up doing is using the new head units RCA pre-outs to get the signal to the RF amp (rather than use the head unit's internal amplifier). To do this, you need to get a special adapter to convert the factory harness into an RCA connect (or, you could technically attach RCA connectors to the factory wiring, but that's kind of hard to undo should you ever want to put the stock setup back in).
Anyway, here's what you need:
I know Scosche (and probably others) make the dash kit, and there's a few options for steering wheel control interfaces, but I've had good luck with Metra products. For the amp harness, the Metra is the only one I could find.
The realistic, "not doing moab every day" answer is a set of the next step up in the Bilstein lineup (5100 series), something that's an improvement but not full on "I can feel the size of the gravel in the pavement" level of suspension diva...
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Conveniently, Amazon sells/stocks them... Links:
you'll need two of the Fronts and
two of theRears.apologies, rear of xTerra is THIS model.​
Background: Owner of an 09 xTerra S 4x4 (2010-2014 and 100k+ miles) and current owner of a 12 Pro-4X Frontier (2017 - now, "travel/trip" vehicle, 10k miles?).
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This was my first "upgrade" on the frontier. $340ish plus tax?
Worth it, and wish i'd done them on the xTerra, it's a better handling platform imho...
To quote another redditor
"It is exactly as difficult as replacing your stock alternator. I'd give it a one scratched knuckle rating. Just watch out for the sharp edges and take your time removing the plug connector from the top of the alternator. If you have a socket set with 14, 12, 10mm and a small flat blade screwdriver for working the clip on that stupid plug you should have all the tools you need.
1. Unhook the negative battery cable for safety.
2. Start at the plug on top of the alternator, carefully remove that.
3. Remove the two wires from the back of the alternator.
4. Remove the alternator bracket bolt. That is the one that goes front to back at the bottom of the alternator below the pulley, not the adjuster which goes side to side. (take note or a picture of exactly how the bracket bolt goes through the adjuster widget)
5. The mounting bolts are at the top of the alternator, way up at the ears, hard to see at first. One goes in from the front. One goes in from the back. Loosen them both. Push the alternator toward the motor so the belt can come off the alternator pulley. Get the mounting bolts finger loose without pulling them out. Decide which you can turn by hand easiest while holding the alternator up and take out the other one. Then take out the second one. Do not drop the alternator on your head.
6. Wiggle the alternator out.
7. Fish the new alternator up to where you can get one of the mounting bolts started and get it a couple threads in.
8. Start the other mounting bolt.
9. Finger tighten those bolts.
10. Connect the big fat hot wire, connect the ground wire. (mmm, probably should have made sure you have a ground wire bolt that fits before now)
11. Plug the pluggy plug into the plug receptacle on the back of the new alternator.
12. Put the bracket bolt back in to place.
13. Try and get the old belt to fit over the new pulley. It might go. Watch out that you have the belt under the timing pointer above the crankshaft pulley and not riding on top of it like I did.
14. If the belt won't go on you'll need a slightly longer one. To get to the alternator belt you have to remove the other two belts first. There are idler pulleys that are adjusted from the top (motor side of the radiator, first is obvious, second is a bit to passenger side hiding a bit lower) with 14mm sockets. One for each belt. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. It helps to loosen the bolt through the actual pulley a bit.
15. Once you have the belt(s) in place, push the alternator by hand away from the motor to tighten belt. Wind the adjuster bolt so that it is snug. Tighten up those mounting bolts you finger tightened earlier. You don't want a lot of play in the alternator belt but too tight is no good either. Start out snug with a little give and adjust later so that is tight enough for the belt not to squeak when the truck starts. (Stop the engine before you try and adjust it, right?).
16. Count your tools, make sure nothing is left sitting on or in the motor and hook the battery cable back up.
17. Start the truck.
This is the alternator I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY0B2GM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 although any 1999-2003 Nissan Quest or Mercury Villager alternator should work.
The plastic fixture where the big fat hot wire goes (under the red rubber cap) is a bit different than the Xterra but if you just tighten the nut on down, everything works out."
It is exactly as difficult as replacing your stock alternator. I'd give it a one scratched knuckle rating. Just watch out for the sharp edges and take your time removing the plug connector from the top of the alternator. If you have a socket set with 14, 12, 10mm and a small flat blade screwdriver for working the clip on that stupid plug you should have all the tools you need.
This is the alternator I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY0B2GM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 although any 1999-2003 Nissan Quest or Mercury Villager alternator should work.
The plastic fixture where the big fat hot wire goes (under the red rubber cap) is a bit different than the Xterra but if you just tighten the nut on down, everything works out.
If you have a Gen2 (2005-2015) its a 19mm for lug nuts (or lugnut wrench under rear seat), 14mm for caliper bolts (think the nut on slide pin is 17mm that you might need to hold onto with a wrench if the slide pin spins), 19mm for caliper bracket bolts.
To add, you need something to compress the caliper pistons back in to fit the new pads. Variety of options, use the old brake pad and large pair of plyers or C-clamp, or you can buy a specialty tool (break pad spreader a cheap one like this works fine).
Also you will need brake clean to remove oil coating on new rotors and brake lubricant (assuming your new pads don't come with some) to regrease the slide pins.
A breaker bar or pipe can be useful to break lose the caliper bracket bolts in particular. Also you might need a hammer if the rotor is rust fused to the hub (anti-seize is useful in reassembly if you want to avoid this next time).
Lastly, bungie cords are a great cheap option to hold the caliper as you replace the rotors and pads to make sure it doesn't fall and put tension on brake line.
Your Amazon link isn't working. What you need is something like this
The hitch is fine for this use as long as you don't try to loop over a hitch ball or just use the pin. Some people will insert the strap into the receiver and just put a pin through it; this can bend the pin, it is best to use an insert like the one I linked to.
I use this one I bought off Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X3TRFLJ3ET3A&keywords=bafx+bluetooth+obd2&qid=1563900888&s=gateway&sprefix=bafx+bluertoo%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-3
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Some of the cheaper ones are not compatible with all of the OBD2 protocols, which is probably why the one you got doesn't work with your XTerra, but this one complains to be compatible with all OBD2 vehicles 1996 and newer. I have used it with a 2000 Cavalier, 2002 Mustang, 2005 XTerra, 2007 Camry, 2012 Tacoma, and 2015 Versa successfully so that is most likely true.
I have this one installed in my 2nd gen. Fits perfectly and has lots of features, though not the cheapest of the ones posted so far. Good luck!
Is there a specific deck you would recommend that would fit or do i need to get something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFHHGU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1WH4GEGJCQIEN) and pair it with one of these?.
Hey that looks nice! I just used a piece of wood and some small C-clamps on mine. I do have this floor mat for my 1 bike.
Pertinent info, a crosspost provided this insight regarding better fastening systems
Quick Fist, Quick Grips are those overpriced Irwin clamps.
These are what I got and I love them
Bilstein 24-187169 5100 Series Rear Shock for Nissan Xterra 4WD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WO9Q1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ZErgxA1LiOcM2
Bilstein 24-187053 5100 Series Front Shock for Nissan Xterra 2WD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WO9P1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_mfMpcZ4asZXVe
As for installation I don't know I did it myself it's fairly easy.
I have a 2011 Xterra S 4x4 and the standard radio doesn't have an aux input. The optional radio with the 6 CD changer and satellite radio mode has an aux button on the radio and the aux input jack above the cigar lighter on the dash. Your input may be an aftermarket add like this FM modulator device
Lordy, you can run a sawzall off your inverter?
I just got one of these, one of these and a cheap true temper axe and have been served well so far.
Scosche makes a wiring harness adapter.
Here's a link to Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007KPS0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525792990&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=scosche+xterra+radio+wiring+harness&dpPl=1&dpID=41rDjw%2BkK2L&ref=plSrch
I use an OBD2 Bluetooth reader and the Torque app on my phone to check codes for my 2007. I use this scanner, seems to work well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(I had cheaper bluetooth reader before that worked on my 2008 Frontier, but didn't work on my Xterra).
What you mean is an FM modulator... like this: http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE
I had one, and they sound like shit, but you can add an AUX to a radio system that didn't previously have one.
would this work for him? $17
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120997428B/Metra-99-7428B-Dash-Kit-Black.html
this has the radio stuff too
https://www.amazon.com/Frontier-2009-2013-Aftermarket-Harness-Antenna/dp/B00DMFHHGU
i’d personally order from crutchfield and just add the antenna to it
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2944-Offset-Screwdriver-3-Piece/dp/B000NY8OQU/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y
AutoLoc WC1000 One Touch Up And Down Window Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BTQMW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K1h9Ab9T955BA
Maybe this will answer all questions, and if so, I want to do this mod.
Add one of these to the mirror. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00029WVIS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
Getting the the ball joint detached from the spindle is a pain. I bought this and it helped a lot:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O
I ended up replacing the entire LCA as another user mentioned. With an '08, you'd probably need a reciprocating saw to cut them off if you went that route.