Top products from r/ageofsigmar

We found 37 product mentions on r/ageofsigmar. We ranked the 136 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/ageofsigmar:

u/enterdragon91 · 2 pointsr/ageofsigmar

Having been painting for almost a year and still getting slightly better each week, I'd strongly recommend that if you want a 'collector's set' that you get some painting practice first.

It's a great hobby, but your first models will be messy. Heck, my last models have been messy. There is ample tutorials online, some official warhammer ones to, by Warhammer TV on youtube, but it would be unlikely that you will be a perfect painting right from the get-go.

Might be worth booking some painting sessions with your local GW, as that is something they can do. But if you want one brilliant army in battle against a few others, then maybe you could practice on one of its enemies. Stormcast and Blades of Khorne have the most (i think) official tutorials online, so you could get some of them to practice on.

Cost wise, excluding miniatures themselves, you would be looking at 3 or 4 brushes at minimum. The cost can vary greatly, Citadel (GW brand) tend to be sub-par. This isn't me GW bashing, I genuinely have tried a couple options and found them to be this way. I would highly highly recommend these though: I got the size 00 and size 1, and although the size 1 is big enough, it keeps a great point that you can use it as a detail brush. My 00 hasn't kept it's point, but still very good. Also, if you are doing Seraphon, you will need a drybrush. Normal brushes get wrecked after a few dry brushes. If you haven't heard, drybrushing is really good at bringing out raised detail in your models, particularly good with scales.

Wet palette is very useful, it will minimise your paint loss. Again, here is one I bought, but you can DIY one for yourself pretty easily with some kitchen towels and baking paper or something like that:

Pretty optional, but a good LED lamp with a flexible head would be a god send. You won't realise how yellow your lights are until you see a good LED lamp.

For working with plastics, you need some cutters, a file, a mouldline remover is pretty good too. GW does all of these, but again, premium price. You can probably get equally good versions elsewhere for less if you look around.

Also will need super glue and plastic glue. Superglue won't ruin paint, plastic glue will melt it but gives a better hold in the long run. Usually for trickier models, you might paint it first before assembling some of the more awkward bits. Bad explanation, but for example I left my shields off my models so that I can paint their arms. Then I superglue them on to not ruin the paint.

u/Quarrels · 4 pointsr/ageofsigmar

The other 2 comments address most of what you are asking but I thought I could add a bit.
Shades are probably the best product that GW sell. Buy at least Nuln oil and probably Agrax Earthshade to start but you will likely find you want them all eventually. As far as the different types of paint, they have different properties and the other post cover this well. Vallejo is a great brand, their paint is of a similar quality to Citadel(GW) but they are a little cheaper, come in better bottles and I think they have more colours. I use a mixture of Citadel, Vallejo, and Tamiya for all my painting and each have ups and downs but Vallejo is best overall I think. I also have an Army Painter green, and I hate it, but some people really like their line. The last thing is the dry paints, I don't like them. They are hard to use compared to regular paint for dry brushing and that's their whole purpose so I don't use them. I bought the elf flesh one and ruined a model with it, now I thin it with water and use it as highlight just to not waste it.

Brushes can be really important too. I suggest the GW M Base, S Dry then you can fill in the rest with better or cheaper brushes depending on what they are for. I don't think there is any reason to spend money on some generic medium detail brushes. I went to Micheal's (A hobby store in Canada) and bought a cheap 4 brush set of Golden Taklon synthetic brushes for like $10. These are not great brushes, don't get me wrong, but they work great because their fibers aren't very flexible compared to natural and when they are no good, throw them out and get another set for cheap. I use them for highlighting and metallics, because metallics can really ruin your good brushes. The next is shade brushes, you want something moppy, same store has a similar brush made from synthetic Camel Hair and these are just as good as the GW shade brushes. If you can afford it, it is worth picking up a #0 and a #1 or #2 in the Windsor and Newton series 7 brushes, these are great brushes and much better than GW but 2 will run you $50 - $70 so save up, get them when you can, and take care of them. This is the best product for cleaning brushes... just buy it, you will need it.

I've been painting for about 2 years now and I have several posts on here if your interested in any of my work. Hopefully my small amount of experience can help you get started.

u/DIVE-BUOY · 4 pointsr/ageofsigmar

Honestly really great work for a first model. Almost can't believe it.

You asked for critique and comments/suggstions though so here's my best shot.

  1. Mold lines! - I use the back of an Xacto knife and lightly scrape away the flashing trying to avoid taking away enough material to make any flat spots. Then I kind of blend out any flat spots that I do happen to create using the same process.

  2. Thin your paints! Thin your paints! Thin your paints! It will help a TON with how smooth the paint comes out. Yes, you'll need to keep adding water along the way to keep it the same consistency. A wet palette can really help here. I use this one which is less than $11. There are plenty of tutorials for a do it yourself wet palette too. Especially thin your highlight paints. Thinner paints will allow your highlights to look more like a gradient from extra light without having to actually blend to the original color. When you want it brighter, just go over with another really thin coat. I can see where it kind of globbed up on some of the highlighting. Thin coats will help keep that from happening too by making the paint easier to control.

  3. Check out some washes. You'll absolutely love how easy it makes flesh. Most of the flesh coloring for elves I do anymore is just scar white + reikland fleshshade. Added bonus that it gives you really clean gradients of darkness/light so you don't have to be so exact highlighting fingers and faces and what-not. Really great work on the flesh portions of your mini by the way. That is not easy to do the way you did it and you 100% pulled it off.

    Overall, it looks very nice. I just finished a glade guard model myself for skirmish. When I get home I'll post a picture of it if you're interested in seeing.

u/televided · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

Rad! Always a welcome sight to meet a fellow ashrat warmonger! Queeek! I am honored that you are impressed with the look but I must pass credit where it's due - my theme is super not original.

I wanted to start my skaven army but like you, I was also tired of the brown rats, so while searching for themes I stumbled onto this post on FB (not sure if you can see this, it's posted to the Age of Sigmar Fans group) Link

This fella said that he painted the entire army in 13 days and that was about the right amount of effort for me! But I didn't know how to get started. I was fairly new with my airbrush too, but I was starting to wrap my head around it.

So - to your questions/comments:

Zenithal: I prime in black and zenithal grey everything now. Because I use thin paints, the dark gradient beneath will influence the paint on the surface. The lumpy chibi models I'm working on now are all mostly painted with glazes and shaded thanks to zenithal. I learned the technique from Vincent Venturella.

I did use an airbrush. I'm using a master G-233. It's a step up from the airbrush & compressor combo G-22. I have used an Iwata Eclipse and these master airbrushes perform the same. The main differences between my cheap junker and the Iwata is maintenance (Iwata is much easier to clean). If you are starting out, learning to airbrush on the Master will give you an appreciation for more expensive equipment, though I can tell you for a fact, an expensive airbrush will not make you good. : ) Link to Master G-22 & Compressor Combo

Rattlecan Zenithal looks great also. This dude uses the speckling to his advantage and I admire it greatly: Phreshpaintminis

Regarding the stormvermin: No. I didn't follow any of my steps at all because I was learning how to get good results quickly, which was a stupid slow process.

Stormvermin process:

  1. Zenithal grey over black

  2. Drybrush Celestra Grey

  3. Nuln Oil Wash

  4. Second drybrush Celestra Grey

  5. Waffle on the contrast color. Was white, then green, then red.

  6. Paint the weapons as above

  7. Edge highlight everything with a detail brush because I am insane

  8. Never do this again or advise it

    PLEASE post your rats! I can't wait to see what you do with them. Also, it's totally worth it to get on instagram with your minis. Engaging with the minpainting community has propelled me in terms of motivation and learning.
u/neverdeadned22 · 6 pointsr/ageofsigmar
  1. If both of you are interested in either army then yes, it's a good value and starting point especially with the rulebook

  2. Yes there are cheaper alternatives like Army Painter that could get you started or even this set just to get you started with some paints. All you need is some cheap brushes to get started tbh

  3. You get a lot of use from them, I started almost 11 months ago and I still have a lot of the paint I first bought and I try to paint daily

  4. Get started and read the rules a bit, ask questions, have fun. It's easier to get in the swing by playing it and asking questions to clarify things for future games
u/global_tornado · 2 pointsr/ageofsigmar

Well, depending on the level of newbness the following might be helpful:

Use Tamiya Extra Thin Plastic Cement (green cap) instead of super glue for the grey plastic stuff. It won't work on Resin though. Buy it at a Hobbytown USA or off Amazon.

Use wire cutters to remove stuff from the sprues, don't twist. Even a cheap $4 pair of Hakko cutters works fine. I use a small Gerber pocket knife to scrape off mold lines.

Don't get caught caught up into magnetizing stuff. Just glue it and be done. Nobody is going to care if you say a Carnosaur counts as a Troglodon for a game, or if your Saurus Knights are not really using the lances they are modeled with.

Apparently massive amounts of Skinks are a good investment for current Seraphon. I'd not buy more than 2 boxes while waiting for a new battletome though.

If you REALLY screw up a model, you can fix it with green stuff 99% of the time.

Army Painter sells a 50 paint set that I fully endorse. Drip bottles that won't dry out quickly like GW paints.

Ebay is a good resource. You'll have to click worldwide on the left.

Sometimes you can get stuff you can't find on Amazon at your local independent hobbystores or official GW stores that keep old stock, like unsold copies of Carrion Empire. One example, Chaos Lord on foot is a website exclusive, but you can have it shipped to a store for free instead of $10 to your home. You have to place the order in person with the store staff for that specific shop to get credit for the sale though.

u/PressurePlate · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

The base! Sure, here's a quick guide;

So, the material that the rock is made of, is Plaster of Paris (you can find it just about anywhere, but here it is on Amazon). It can seem a little intimidating to start working with, but I promise it's very accessible. That material was shaped with rock molds from Woodland Scenics (this one and this one). Takes something like 30 minutes to do each batch, don't be afraid of failure and remember to spray the mold with Wet Water before putting the plaster in.

Once you have your rocks, you'll need to sand down the flat end, and super glue them to your bases. Next will be to use Vallejo Earth Texture to blend it all together.

Hit with some prime, then paint the rock grey, the dirt brown. Dry brush the whole thing with a light blue, then bring down the whole thing with one wash, I used Agrax Earthshade. Dry brush the dirt brown, then the whole thing light blue again, then the sun facing side of the rocks white. You're done painting!

You might want to put some grass on the dirt, your call, I happened to use these because they're tonally appropriate, though over-sized-- so I cut some up. Then you'll want to spot some Vallejo Snow, or whatever snow you want to use.

I pinned my guys to the rocks, but the the Vallejo Snow also works really well as a method for securing your boys, since it's pretty much just glue.


I hope this helps and I'm thrilled you like it!

u/Gaytrox · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

Yeah no problem man, was kinda talking out my ass there before because I didn't have any pictures other than some slime and a low res scythe. Glad I could finally deliver.

I've got to also repeat back a tip I got from another painter and recommend an airbrush as well, because using it blew me away.

That's the one I got about two weeks ago. Bought it and airbrush cleaner fluid (a mask is also recommended, I had one laying around) and have had a lot of fun with it. For years I had been intimidated by airbrushes because of the cost and seeming complexity, but after finally deciding to take the plunge and make the investment in one, they're not as intimidating as they seem to use and maintain. It's a whole new world of painting to explore. And it saves me so much fucking time when it comes to painting and shading my models well with an easy to learn but hard to master technique called "zenithal highlighting". I stripped some old rats and got 40 of the above rats done in 1 six hour sitting. Sure, I need to go do some detail work eventually, but the rats in the pics above would have taken at least twice as long for me to have gotten to the same point the old way, with a far worse result. The reason I am mentioning it now is I think there's a lot of potential to create glowing and flame effects with it. I did a trial run there on my rats using Vallejo livery green air to create the illusion of light shining on them from their warpstone spears. Maybe you could create similar glowing and/or shining light type effect with the fireborn?

u/elescapo · 2 pointsr/ageofsigmar

I use this stuff. A bit pricey, but can be found at lower prices than Amazon if you look around. Works great. Nice flat finish. (If you want certain parts to be shiny you will need to go over them afterward with 'Ard Coat or some other gloss medium.)

u/1D13 · 9 pointsr/ageofsigmar

>Hey guys noob here trying to get into the hobby. I've just been adding up some prices and it's getting ridiculous... am I doing something wrong or is this the entry fee we're talking about? Here is my math.
>$29 - Chaos Black Spray
>$11 - Agrax Earthshade
>$6 - Lamenters Yellow
>$6 - Flash Gitz Yellow
>$6 - Yriel Yellow
>$6 - Ardcoat
>$11 - Agrellan Earth (x3)
>$6 - Kantor Blue
>$11 - Coelia Greenshade
>$6 - Lothern Blue
>$6 - Sotek Green
>$6 - Temple Guard Blue
>$6 - Ushabti Bone
>$6 - Screaming Skull
>$6 - Balthasar Gold
>$6 - Gehenna's Gold
>$6 - Khorne Red
>$11 - Carroburg Crimson
>$6 - Wazdakka Red
>Paints $179
>Start Collecting! Seraphon $140
>Essential Citadel Brush Selection $87
>Mouldline Remover $19
>TOTAL: $425
>^ This paint is for bases and Saurus Warriors only, haven't even calculated the cost of paints for the Cold One Knights and the Carnosaur yet because it was already getting out of control and this is supposed to be my intro into the hobby...

It hurts my pocket book to see people pay $11 for black primer and clear coat when you can buy the same quality of spray for ~$3-4 each.

And $6 for single colors is ridiculous. But then I don't use GW paints. I prefer army painter shade washes, and Vallejo model color or game color for regular colors. I use Rustoleum black, grey, and white primer and always have great experiences with it as long as you follow the use instructions (like don't spray when too hot or too cold or rainy). And I thought my Testors Dull clear coat was expensive at ~$8.

[Vallejo basic model color] ( 16 basic colors for $42, which is a ton better than $6 per color.

Army Painter Quickshades 11 washes for $27.50

And if you like army painter paints which they are great paints there is the starter set: Mega Paint Set by Army Painter 50 paints includingbasic colors, shade washes, and a few metallics for $90.

Don't buy into GW's propaganda, their regular paints aren't any better than other common brands like Army Painter and Vallejo, and they are a fraction of the price, usually about half the cost.

Personally I used to use exclusively GW paints and wish someone would have told me this stuff early, I would have saved a lot of money. When I started using other products I realized I didn't even like the GW method for most things. Base paints are too thick, and layer paints are the exact same as army painter or model color paints. Then you get things like acrylic medium, airbrush medium, and glaze medium which you can buy in big bottles from other companies, like Golden, which is the same gunk that GW sells for $6 per pot that you can buy from Liquitex or Golden 8 oz bottlrs for ~$10-$15.

If you're worried about getting studio colors without using GW paints then the community has you covered with the paint conversion chart.

Save yourself some money if you're worried about cost and don't overpay for GW materials when it's the same stuff across the board.

u/Cleave · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

Vallejo Dark Earth with a bit of grit scattered over the top. It's great stuff, you can pile it up so it's not all flat and you get nice little ridges and a fine sand texture once it dries.

u/AFKennedy · 3 pointsr/ageofsigmar

If you’re planning on painting becoming something you do, I think the best value is this set of 50 paints for $94: . The paint quality is similar to GW’s paints but you get a LOT more for your money (the dropper bottles hold almost twice as much paint as a GW paint pot, and cost about 1/3 as much). And it’s half the price of Vallejo’s mega paint set.

For a cheaper option, is less than $30, but you only get 10 paints. But again, a better deal than GW’s paints - GW has a deal for $40 for 11 small paint pots versus $28 for 10 larger dropper bottles from army painter.

But if you can afford to get the 50 paint set from Army Painter, I’d spring for that - the paints cover a wide variety of colors and options (including washes and metallics) and will last you for years.

u/Minion_X · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

I would recommend getting some of this special soap for your brushes, it's great for getting the paint out and preserving them:

It's cheap and one jar lasts a long time.

u/Mekeji · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

I'm not sure what size is best for the zombie dragon wings. However I will say that I love the primal horizon magnets for my Tau. I went lazy with them though and use the 1/8 magnets for everything just doubling up on places that it isn't enough.

u/ReverendDangles · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

Archaon: Everchosen and Valkia the Bloody (Warhammer Heroes). I haven't read these 2 yet but I've been eyeing them for a while.

Since Age of Sigmar is new in many respects, including lore, I would recommend the stuff that GW is pumping out right now. I really like the Realmgate Wars books. One of my favorite is the Call of Archaon. It introduces some Chaos characters that are trying to earn Archaon's favor.

u/OathStoned · 4 pointsr/ageofsigmar

This is the only duardin news ive read.

It'd be awesome to get a new gotrek/felix.

u/tyringo · 4 pointsr/ageofsigmar

It was pretty simple. Started with aquarium plants from Petsmart, just cut off pieces and hot glued down. Also hot glued some cork and some rocks. Then I used vallejo gel texture paint, its just really thick brown paint with sand mixed in - slathered that around super thick and varied the surface, then let it dry. Reikland fleshshade, then dry brush with tan, stuck some army painter jungle and tufts down, then some watered down white glue for the moss and flocking. It sounds a lot more involved than it is, a whole squad of bases is maybe an hour of work.

u/blackbearjt · 2 pointsr/ageofsigmar

The Army Painter Miniature Painting Kit with Bonus Wargamer Regiment Miniature Paint Brush - Acrylic Model Paint Set with 50 Bottles of Non Toxic Model Paints - Mega Paint Set 3
I also used a few citadel paints

u/TWWfanboy · 3 pointsr/ageofsigmar

If you’re looking to get a lot of quality paints quickly at a good price, I cannot recommend Army Painter’s Mega Bundle enough.

u/hallgeir · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar


Is the glue you will want to get, hands down. All the models are plastics, and there is no better plastic glue than the one I linked.

u/VladTheSedater · 2 pointsr/ageofsigmar

Hey op black library has a massive base of literature. The best to start with would probably be The Rise of Nagash (Time of Legends)

Vampire wars also gives you a lot of insight into the coming about of the vampire counts.

u/Causes_Chaos · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

GANZTON Airbrush Compressor Kit Dual Action Airbrush Suit with Adjustable Pressure Compressor 0.4mm Nozzle and Needle and 2CC Dual Action Spray Airbrush Gun for Makeup,Tattoos,Cake Decorating,Crafts

Doesn't have to be expensive or take up alot of room :)