Top products from r/appliancerepair

Just search for a “ replacement knob”. Lots of generic ones under $10. Won’t look pretty but will work. Amazon, eBay, hardware stores, etc. some appliance stores might have a box of spares sitting around.

Example Tops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HMC1XA/

Hello! I believe you have a lid switch issue on your hands. If the lid is up, the machine will fill and agitate, but won't spin and drain. If the lid switch is broken, it will think that it's open and won't drain.

There should be a small hole beneath the lid, on the top of the unit, on the right side. Inside that hole should be a paddle. Try moving the timer to "spin", pulling the knob out to start a cycle, and pressing down on that plastic paddle.

You will probably need to replace the switch. It's super easy and cheap, here's the part:
http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-3949238-Washer-Lid-Switch/dp/B00DM8JA7Q

Here's how to install it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0TDiODw7pM4

Found this one https://www.amazon.ca/Legrand-Pass-Seymour-3867CC5-125-volt-250-volt/dp/B000BQW4OS
The pins are interchangeable so it can be a 14-30p or a 14-50p

Thanks for the help

figure what gauge the wire is and get it in a High Temp Wire like this it's good to 250c

Water should flow out of hole pretty quickly,you could have debris in drain. Assuming fresh food section isn't freezing, consider adding heater extension to keep drain from freezing. https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-819043-Heat-Probe/dp/B00DM8JPZS

i noticed in your first photo that little piece of copper wire. my guess is that you have that wrapped around your defrost heater.

you can try putting one of these defrost probes in there instead. I always run some 1/4" tubing all the way through also and make sure it pokes out both sides, just to clear our any extra gunk.

Yeah, I thought so. We are going to buy a cartridge for the left side of the cooktop because it is a grill at the moment and who uses a grill inside the house? Might as well buy the right side as well. Any thoughts on getting the cartridge you linked versus a genuine OEM one? Here's the cheapest I've found:

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-JGA8100ADB-Original-Equipment-Manufacturer/dp/B001NBY1UK/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=JGA8100ADB&qid=1573675173&s=hi&sr=1-11

There were mixed reviews with the Amazon one. I wouldn't mind paying a little more for an OEM part, but it is an extra $100.

> W10248240
Thank you so much for the info (everyone). I think you have nailed it OldLonely. I will start my troubleshooting tonight and order the part.

If you see this, would this part work. ATC swithc.

http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10248240-Sensor-Switch/dp/B008YDT3PI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396543648&sr=8-1&keywords=W10248240

You must work for Sears. Had a lady tell me that a sears tech told her the same thing.

Any ways he needs one of these https://www.amazon.com/GE-WR49X10173-Dispenser-Heater-Refrigerator/dp/B004H3XWCO

You’re welcome.

Edit: You’re

Ok, well it sounds like your compressor is getting stuck.

You can throw a Supco 3-n-1 Hard Start kit on there and it will usually do the trick. It has a massive capacitor that kicks the compressors ass into moving.

However, it's generally not considered to be a permanent solution. On the other hand, they are cheaper than most replacement OEM start relays and a hell of a lot more powerful. I've got one on my own fridge right now.

They make a terminal block kit that comes with new wires to splice into the harness. And of course you have to buy a new cord. If you are not comfortable splicing wires then you should call someone but it is an easy repair. https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-279320-Terminal-Block-Dryer/dp/B004XLDCTS

Yeah, as long as the rail isn’t bent when the door is shut all the way. Otherwise maybe try this guy. Lowe’s sells it too, at least in my area.

Check the vent. It's free. I had a clog near where the vent exited my house in the attic because someone put a 8in cylinder of chicken wire in the duct. I should have checked there first, but I only spent ~$20 on this when I was debugging.

Is there anything still legible on the white part? Part number?

This looks kind of similar... Spark Ignitor For WP74009336 - Oven Top Burner Maytag Range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RLP3J6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7qQkDbA0CP356

Most ovens are 240, regarding your want for a meter, go with a Fluke or a Fieldpiece.

These coils were the ones I bought initially: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XLDEAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

By shifter you mean this? https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10006355-Actuator/dp/B00DM8KQ2Y/ref=pd_ybh_a_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0746CRB38JEB9QG2VJY9

https://www.amazon.com/GE-WB44X10009-Electric-Oven-Element/dp/B003BIGDCC

That's the correct one for your model.

Each elbow counts as 5 feet. So your vent run is equal to 25 feet which is marginal. Here's another brand but same exact idea. They are even interchangeable with the LintEater Brand. https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519742734&sr=8-5&keywords=lint+eater&dpID=519%252B92SyeDL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Yup, capacitor, $20 https://www.amazon.com/GE-WH12X10462-Washing-Machine-Capacitor/dp/B00MNMZ6A2

Not much you can do to prevent it, and given the age it may have been from a batch of bad electrolytes. motherboards had a huge issue from the capacitor plague caused by cheap and counterfeit electrolyte.

Try one of these. It replaces the relay, capacitor and overload.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008YDSH6E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1