(Part 2) Top products from r/appliancerepair

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We found 21 product mentions on r/appliancerepair. We ranked the 133 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/appliancerepair:

u/The_Cheez_Baron · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

Hello! I believe you have a lid switch issue on your hands. If the lid is up, the machine will fill and agitate, but won't spin and drain. If the lid switch is broken, it will think that it's open and won't drain

You will probably need to replace the switch. It's super easy and cheap, here's the part: http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-8318084-Lid-Switch-Washer/dp/B0050O1UR8

Here's how to install it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPk_MinoNo0

u/Tippytom · 2 pointsr/appliancerepair

figure what gauge the wire is and get it in a High Temp Wire like this it's good to 250c

u/the_planes_walker · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

Yeah, I thought so. We are going to buy a cartridge for the left side of the cooktop because it is a grill at the moment and who uses a grill inside the house? Might as well buy the right side as well. Any thoughts on getting the cartridge you linked versus a genuine OEM one? Here's the cheapest I've found:


There were mixed reviews with the Amazon one. I wouldn't mind paying a little more for an OEM part, but it is an extra $100.

u/_Ted_Stryker_ · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

Find the model number for your range and look up the parts online. I have a Kenmore made by Fridgidaire and have had to replace the bottom element before. It’s easy (2 screws) and the parts are cheap. This is the style I have: https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-316075103-Oven-Bake-Element/dp/B0050KKS5C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=oven+element&qid=1565898998&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/rkdaddy · 2 pointsr/appliancerepair

You must work for Sears. Had a lady tell me that a sears tech told her the same thing.

Any ways he needs one of these https://www.amazon.com/GE-WR49X10173-Dispenser-Heater-Refrigerator/dp/B004H3XWCO

You’re welcome.

Edit: You’re

u/nutbastard · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

Ok, well it sounds like your compressor is getting stuck.

You can throw a Supco 3-n-1 Hard Start kit on there and it will usually do the trick. It has a massive capacitor that kicks the compressors ass into moving.

However, it's generally not considered to be a permanent solution. On the other hand, they are cheaper than most replacement OEM start relays and a hell of a lot more powerful. I've got one on my own fridge right now.

u/downer3498 · 9 pointsr/appliancerepair

It looks like a very worn out Bounce bar .
The idea is you put that thing in your dryer and you don’t have to use dryer sheets. But you have to change the bar when it looks like that.

u/Junkmans1 · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

I'm a DIY'er. I looked up the parts diagrams for your model and see there is a SPARK MODULE which I believe relates to all of the burners. You should do a little research of this with Google and youTube and see if that's your problem. I see some google results on how to test the spark module as well - which might make sense as it appears to be an expensive part (around $60 to $70 check Amazon). Keep in mind that Kitchenaid is a Whirlpool product and the parts are common between the brands as well as other Whirlpool brands.

u/jpetrone · 2 pointsr/appliancerepair

Is there anything still legible on the white part? Part number?

This looks kind of similar... Spark Ignitor For WP74009336 - Oven Top Burner Maytag Range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RLP3J6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7qQkDbA0CP356

u/lenggustine · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

Would hardware stores sell the wires itself that connects the thermostats? I was thinking about getting a kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XLDE5A/ref=psdc_13397451_t1_B0053F7TQA. It might not be an exact part, but all I'd really need is the red cable.

u/ruove · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

Most ovens are 240, regarding your want for a meter, go with a Fluke or a Fieldpiece.

u/kcornet · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

I looked at the manual for your receiver, and it two things make me think it will not work on 240V

  • No voltage selector switch on the back

  • Specifically says it has an analog power supply

    You will need a step down transformer like this
u/_firecracker · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

go to this link on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-279769-Thermal-Cut-Dryer/dp/B004XLDDNI

The part on the right in the main picture goes bad

u/sbma44 · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

Wow--this is so close to my own situation that for a moment I wondered if I'd gone a drunken appliance repair bender. My washer is an SHE3ARL5UC (the "Ascenta" line). I already replaced the control board with one from ebay--the seller had great feedback and a track record so I don't think I was passed a bum one. Plus it'd be a hell of coincidence for two boards to have such similar problems.

The same behavior--a jump to clean early in the cycle--is recurring and seems to have gotten worse (retrying sometimes works, but decreasingly often). The repair manual sent me to the same trio of indistinguishable error codes as you (E:23, E:24 or E:25--who can say), plus a decently long explanation of things to check for the latter two. So I checked: the pump's impeller turns freely. There's no obstruction in the sump. I reseated the drain pump cover. I reset the codes. I filled the sump with water and lifted the check valve and the pump drained the water out--maybe with a little more startup complaining than I expected. Hm. No backflow, though. A multimeter reading between drain pump motor pins shows a resistance around 90 ohms--I'm having a hard time finding specific numbers for the part (611332) but this is a couple of times higher than people seem to expect for some similar pumps. I believe the reading is consistent across coils, though it's possible I screwed this up.

My best guess is that the drain pump is failing under load--I, too, get through some initial back & forth with the wash motor before the jump to "clean". Having finally gotten another successful load underway, it's clear that this is more back & forth than should normally occur prior to the primary flow of water beginning--presumably some sort of tentative diagnostic performed by the controller at cycle start that isn't liking what it sees from the drain pump. The main motor sounds a bit more cheerful than the admittedly smaller drain pump, too. It occurs to me that if one coil is bad we might both be playing an extremely boring and domestic game of roulette every time we attempt a cycle.

I've got a replacement pump on its way and will hopefully have more to report and an empty sink on Friday.