(Part 3) Top products from r/appliancerepair

Fascinating. Thank you for the insight. The inner workings of appliances and electric and refrigeration is essentially magic to me.

Can that part be cleaned or repaired in some way or will it need to be replaced?

And am I correct then in assuming that this is the part:
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Kenmore-Refrigerator-Temperature-Control-Thermostat/WP2198202/2299?modelNumber=106.55622500&ss=a4b6d699004-x746865726d6f73746174&mr=1

and using that part number listed (#WP2198202) i found it on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-2198202-Thermostat-for-Refrigerator/dp/B004XLE5DU

Thank you so much for your help.

Hello! I believe you have a lid switch issue on your hands. If the lid is up, the machine will fill and agitate, but won't spin and drain. If the lid switch is broken, it will think that it's open and won't drain


You will probably need to replace the switch. It's super easy and cheap, here's the part: http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-8318084-Lid-Switch-Washer/dp/B0050O1UR8


Here's how to install it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPk_MinoNo0

figure what gauge the wire is and get it in a High Temp Wire like this it's good to 250c

Yeah, I thought so. We are going to buy a cartridge for the left side of the cooktop because it is a grill at the moment and who uses a grill inside the house? Might as well buy the right side as well. Any thoughts on getting the cartridge you linked versus a genuine OEM one? Here's the cheapest I've found:

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-JGA8100ADB-Original-Equipment-Manufacturer/dp/B001NBY1UK/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=JGA8100ADB&qid=1573675173&s=hi&sr=1-11

There were mixed reviews with the Amazon one. I wouldn't mind paying a little more for an OEM part, but it is an extra $100.

Find the model number for your range and look up the parts online. I have a Kenmore made by Fridgidaire and have had to replace the bottom element before. It’s easy (2 screws) and the parts are cheap. This is the style I have: https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-316075103-Oven-Bake-Element/dp/B0050KKS5C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=oven+element&qid=1565898998&s=gateway&sr=8-3

You must work for Sears. Had a lady tell me that a sears tech told her the same thing.

Any ways he needs one of these https://www.amazon.com/GE-WR49X10173-Dispenser-Heater-Refrigerator/dp/B004H3XWCO

You’re welcome.

Edit: You’re

Yup, testing with no connectors. I see a "3979617" number on the label, so will this part work? Thanks!

I'm a DIY'er. I looked up the parts diagrams for your model and see there is a SPARK MODULE which I believe relates to all of the burners. You should do a little research of this with Google and youTube and see if that's your problem. I see some google results on how to test the spark module as well - which might make sense as it appears to be an expensive part (around $60 to $70 check Amazon). Keep in mind that Kitchenaid is a Whirlpool product and the parts are common between the brands as well as other Whirlpool brands.

Yeah, as long as the rail isn’t bent when the door is shut all the way. Otherwise maybe try this guy. Lowe’s sells it too, at least in my area.

Would hardware stores sell the wires itself that connects the thermostats? I was thinking about getting a kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XLDE5A/ref=psdc_13397451_t1_B0053F7TQA. It might not be an exact part, but all I'd really need is the red cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-5304440067-CABINET-MOUNTING-KI/dp/B001DHGBV6

These should be them. Whirlpool Part #279393

https://www.amazon.com/GE-WB44X10009-Electric-Oven-Element/dp/B003BIGDCC

That's the correct one for your model.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-WB44K5012-Element-Hotpoint-Sears/dp/B003BIGD4U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492390554&sr=8-1&keywords=wb44k5012

I'm talking about this

It apparently is supposed to provide fail-safe thermal protection in that once it opens, it stays open. I can verify that it is popped with an ohmmeter.

Hadn't thought about the thermostat - it could be stuck closed. I suppose that might make the dryer get hot enough to pop the thermal fuse.

go to this link on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-279769-Thermal-Cut-Dryer/dp/B004XLDDNI

The part on the right in the main picture goes bad

Wow--this is so close to my own situation that for a moment I wondered if I'd gone a drunken appliance repair bender. My washer is an SHE3ARL5UC (the "Ascenta" line). I already replaced the control board with one from ebay--the seller had great feedback and a track record so I don't think I was passed a bum one. Plus it'd be a hell of coincidence for two boards to have such similar problems.

The same behavior--a jump to clean early in the cycle--is recurring and seems to have gotten worse (retrying sometimes works, but decreasingly often). The repair manual sent me to the same trio of indistinguishable error codes as you (E:23, E:24 or E:25--who can say), plus a decently long explanation of things to check for the latter two. So I checked: the pump's impeller turns freely. There's no obstruction in the sump. I reseated the drain pump cover. I reset the codes. I filled the sump with water and lifted the check valve and the pump drained the water out--maybe with a little more startup complaining than I expected. Hm. No backflow, though. A multimeter reading between drain pump motor pins shows a resistance around 90 ohms--I'm having a hard time finding specific numbers for the part (611332) but this is a couple of times higher than people seem to expect for some similar pumps. I believe the reading is consistent across coils, though it's possible I screwed this up.

My best guess is that the drain pump is failing under load--I, too, get through some initial back & forth with the wash motor before the jump to "clean". Having finally gotten another successful load underway, it's clear that this is more back & forth than should normally occur prior to the primary flow of water beginning--presumably some sort of tentative diagnostic performed by the controller at cycle start that isn't liking what it sees from the drain pump. The main motor sounds a bit more cheerful than the admittedly smaller drain pump, too. It occurs to me that if one coil is bad we might both be playing an extremely boring and domestic game of roulette every time we attempt a cycle.

I've got a replacement pump on its way and will hopefully have more to report and an empty sink on Friday.