(Part 2) Top products from r/askanelectrician

Wow, yes, you are indeed in way over your head.

Go old-school. Borrow every book on home electrical repair from your nearest library. Search amazon for home electrical repair books. There are many available used for a dollar or two, especially in home repair book series' from Home Depot or Black & Decker, etc. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-Complete-Guide-Wiring/dp/1589236017

Read them through, and then read them through again. A 20-year-old home electrical book will not have up-to-date safety code information, but it will at least give you the major concepts and guidelines, and the groundwork for asking more informed and complete questions here.

For outlet issue: an outlet tester is a good first step, but it is only the very simplest tip of the iceberg. There are still all kinds of other things that can be wrong, when the tester shows good. It's like looking at the gas gauge on the car-- tells you if you have gas; doesn't tell you if your transmission is busted.

The outlet tester only tells you if the wires were hooked up in the right order. It doesn't tell you if your circuits have the capacity to run everything you want. Learn about circuit breakers and check the breaker panel for ones that have overloaded and shut off, when the outlet goes out.

Good luck!

oh my goodness!!! what a great little gadget. I had no idea something like this even exists. I checked Amazon Canada but there are so many of these, and the instruction videos shows them sticking it into the hole of the wall plug. Yeah of course it has electricity inside. Will it work on any surface like a lets say a metal countertop that is "live" for whatever reasons???

I am going to buy the one a little expensive because it seems to be a reliable brand as per the reviews. Please let me know what you think and tell me if it will work on any conducting surfaces??

https://www.amazon.ca/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-Volt-Alert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518252273&sr=1-5&keywords=non+contact+voltage+tester

How about that one please??

I suppose you could do that, but it's definitely not ideal. You'd be essentially drawing power for up to 10 devices off of one outlet if you plug the 10 switch PDU into one of the outlets of the power conditioner. I assume it would probably be ok since both devices are rated at 15A, but I can't find any information on what one individual outlet on a power conditioner/strip is rated for.

If you're absolutely dead set on getting the 10 switch PDU and you still want a minimum level of filtering and surge protection, I would probably get something like this Furman power strip and plug the PDU into it. It still offers a standard level of EMI/RFI filtering and standard level surge protection and it's only $34. Plus, it has a built in circuit breaker so it would shut off in the event that anything did get overloaded. Along the same vein, this one has slightly better filtering and better surge protection for $43 and this one is the top-of-the-line one for both filtering and surge protection for $90. I would go with one of those if you want the filtering. (probably the $43 one if it were me)

Alternatively, you could forego the filtering and just get one of these for $10. That would at least give you the surge protection. The difference being, without the filtering you might notice a hum in the speakers or pick up radio stations in your equipment, etc. The filtering just lowers your noise floor to some extent and helps keep unwanted interference out. If you never use a microphone or electric guitar/amplifier you might not need it (except for the speakers). I would say surge protection is a must though.

Edit: I just found this two-outlet surge protector that has almost double the joules rating for surge protection as the $10 one-outlet surge protector I mentioned earlier and it offers EMI/RFI filtering (probably not as good of filtering as the Furman ones, but it still has some). That would probably be a good choice also.

Sorry for the wall of text, there are just so many options!

Soldering iron, $9. Solder, $2.50. Some shrink tubing, $3.50.

This will do for 90% of casual hobby electronics, for a grand total of $15. If you enjoy it, you'll upgrade the iron (and still be able to use solder and heat-shrink).

You need to learn to solder, but it's easy.

I would not LED strip, its clumsy, lots of parts, and so on

Suggestions:

1. I would repair the wire connection and use a candelabra LED bulb [I think candelabra is the right socket shape?], which will put far less strain on the weak splices than the old light did because LED uses far less amps. Thats the easy option, use the brightest bulb you can find
   
2. Adapt to a normal socket size [you lose space in the glass cover because of the adaption] Use 100w LED bulb
   
3. LED light engine retrofit
   
4. Replace the socket with a Type A normal socket size, which opens a vast number of LED light bulbs to you, like this very bright LED bulb [you have to check how long these special bulbs are, minus screw base, plus the socket depth etc]

It would be covered by a light cover such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5XT06/

Is there any way around the safety approvals thing? Any way to find out if there's a US light switch that does have UK approvals? (They're all the same shape, so it doesn't really matter which brand.)

I'm honestly really surprised I can't find even one vendor in the UK selling this kind of toggle switch.

My son would have ripped off the tape lickety-split. Outlet plugs are pretty cheap. It's a baby proofing item I'd definitely get. They're inexpensive. Amazon has 36 for $2.09.

Well for the cord side of it, it looks to be a standard c13 computer cable. But that doesn't solve the actual problem, which is you're voltage and possibly frequency difference. I'd recommend using a proper voltage transformer. It'd be something like this which I'm sure you can find somewhere locally or through amazon.co This will step down the voltage from 230V to 120V and it maxs out at 200W so you should be fine.

I was looking at this one. One that you wire in to the bathroom of a house. Figured since I was planning on forcing air through a filter, overshooting the CFPM's would be a good idea, even though it will be a pretty small area.

Did you buy single cover plates? Because you need a single "3 gang" plate for your 3 gang box.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009W3AE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524516091&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3+gang&dpPl=1&dpID=31Egt%2BAJ83L&ref=plSrch

Also, I would put in dummy switches, or 2 receptacles even. Anything looks better than a blank spot imo.

Basic option

Sonos connect price $349

Niles 2 channel amp Price $342

Niles 4 channel speaker selector Price $260

Total $951. This is a basic setup will have one source to all rooms, which can be controlled via the speaker selector/volume control with impedance matching. So you can have music only in one room, and up to 4 rooms. Each room will have different volume; but the same music.

Impedance matching is important when driving more than 1 pair of speakers from a single amplifier.

So just replacing it you would need to verify that the conduit is providing the ground. It is done that way sometimes.

If it is the ground this should suffice. https://www.amazon.com/Bussman-BP-SRU-Fuse-Cover/dp/B00004WA3I/

Do note that I have no clue as to how code effects all of this. I am not an electrician I just play at one. I will let the real ones around here answer how code plays out here.

You ONLY want power? If so then just put a blue box up and get a recessed outlet: LIKE THIS

Run 50 amps to preferably a spa pack. Tubs that run on 120v are usually garbage and 27/32 hot tubs I've done required a 240v 50 amp breaker

2017 Journeyman Electrician Exam... https://www.amazon.com/dp/1946798002?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share