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In case you might not be familiar with the basics of high-performance driving, here's a (hopefully) simplified & easily-digestible overview/summary of 3 main concepts that can improve your car control & competitiveness in most motorsport games:

1. Weight Transfer
   • when accelerating, a bigger portion of the car's weight transfers rearward onto the back tires (squat) & off of the front tires
   • when braking/decelerating, a bigger portion of the car's weight transfers forward onto the front tires (dive) & off of the rear tires
   • when turning left, a bigger portion of the car's weight transfers laterally onto the right (outside) tires & off of the left (inside) tires
   • when turning right, a bigger portion of the car's weight transfers laterally onto the left (outside) tires & off of the right (inside) tires
   • when accelerating & turning simultaneously, a much bigger portion of the car's weight transfers onto the rear outside tire & off of all 3 other tires (which can sometimes cause a spin-out)
   • when braking/decelerating & turning simultaneously, a much bigger portion of the car's weight transfers onto the front outside tire & off of all 3 other tires (which can sometimes cause a spin and/or cause the car to plow straight through the turn off the track & into a wall)
   • oversteer (turning too much) & understeer (not turning enough) are usually caused by an imbalance of too much lateral weight transfer at one end of the car without enough corresponding lateral weight transfer at the opposite end of the car
   • changing a car's tuning settings is often done specifically to alter how a car behaves when weight transfers
   • your manipulation of the car's inputs while driving (throttle, brake, & steering), along with the car's configuration & setup/tune and the track's conditions, all affect when, where, how fast, & how much of the car's weight transfers
   
   
2. Tires & Grip
   Your car's ability to go anywhere depends entirely on the quality of the contact between the tires & the ground. Each tire's ability to do what you want at a given time (grab traction while turning, slow your car under braking, and/or transfer engine power to the road when accelerating) is dependent upon things like:
   • the track surface
   • the tire type/compound
   • the area of the tire that is currently touching the track (contact patch)
   • temperatures
   • the forces pushing on the tire (vertically, laterally, & forward/momentum) in that moment
   • the amount of rotational force (engine power/torque) going to the tire
   ...Too much or too little of anything (weight, heat, power, etc.) on a tire can greatly reduce (or completely eliminate) the tire's ability to perform.
   
   
3. The Racing Line
   The fastest path around a track, which, through each turn, includes things like:
   • braking point
   • turn-in point / corner entry
   • apex
   • track-out / corner exit
   ...The common "slow in, fast out" mantra is based on the concept that you align & balance the car on corner entry to facilitate an accelerating swingshot exit out of each turn.
   
   Weight transfer, tires & grip, and the racing line are inter-related & all play into each other. Many challenges you might encounter with oversteer, understeer, grip, & lap times are caused by - and can therefore also be alleviated by - how your driving (when & how much throttle, braking, steering input you apply) and your car's tune/setup affect the way weight transfers onto & off of your tires in an effort to keep more of your momentum flowing through the optimal path.
   
   Of course, this short list is not complete coverage, but just some quick nuggets to hopefully get you started & provide a taste of the types of topics involved in the study of high-performance driving. If you feel like diving deeper into it, here are some links to more (& better) info:
   
   • DrivingFast.net
   • TurnFast.com
   • iRacing Racing School YouTube playlist
   • "Ultimate Speed Secrets: The Complete Guide to High-Performance and Race Driving" by Ross Bentley
   
   Good luck & have fun.

Next step is a wheel with a good base. I mean, G920 is like 200-250€. Next clever step is to try some base with some good wheel. 300-500€

Thrustmaster TS-PC

[Thrustmaster T500 RS] https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-T500-Force-Wheel-Feedback/dp/B004GNG2MW?th=1

And you can find some fanatec between that prices...but I think best wheel quality/price is the Fanatec Clubsport if you dont think about Open Sim Wheel.

Hope it helps you!

Also you don't have to invest in a G27 and a wheel stand if you don't want to invest too much money. The Driving Force GT wheel is significantly cheaper, and you can just attach it to your desk if your desk allows, saving money on a wheel stand as well. The curvature of my desk actually doesn't allow me to attach the wheel with its standard screws, so I simply attached it to a small piece of wood and use C-clamps to attach the wood to my desk. I was able to pick up a Driving Force GT wheel on craigslist for $50, and it's one of the best purchases I've ever made. It's great.

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-PlayStation-Driving-Force-Racing-3/dp/B0015HYPOO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419755055&sr=8-1&keywords=driving+force+gt

Try to see if you can find one near where you live on craigslist for cheaper, or even a G25/G27, as they're both great as well.

This game is based on extremely basic physics fundamentals that I knew I loved, from the moment I had this game set up with a wheel. Initially, I tried with the 360 controller on the default settings; This lead to a ridiculous show of lock to lock steering, making the car easy to upset and impossible to save.

Car set ups are easily downloadable from race department. There is no comprehensive database that can be installed with a single download. Each car/track combo is individual, and may not fit your style of driving.

I highly recommend getting into the basic tuning, as I found a lot of enjoyment learning which settings affect which parts of the turn that oversteer and understeer are undermining your corner.

The quality of content speaks for itself. The feeling of throwing a car around is incredibly authentic. Buy this game if you have an undying love for the sheer pleasure of DRIVING.

Things not to expect:

• Good NETCODE for multiplayer collisions and close racing
  
  
• A career with any kind of soul
  
  
• AI from 2014
  
  
• A large list of cars comparable to project cars or GT
  
  
• Porsche
  
  
• Night tracks, rain or any special effects like this.
  
  
• Skill trees
  
  Remember that it is only with complexity, that we can achieve diversity, choice and ultimately, whatever it is that absolutely has to be in "YOUR" racing simulator.
  
  YOUR customizable HUD
  YOUR favourite cars and tracks
  YOUR view on how the car should grip, turn and brake
  
  Ultimately, this is a true fanboy's dream. Accurate physics, a wealth of mods, a mature community, well developed cars, laser scanned tracks, and all run by an indie team. I would love to welcome you to this community, but I'm almost sure that the quality of this simulator and the frustration induced by a controller will get you to splurge on a wheel

I got myself one of these wireless keyboards with a touchpad and it has worked out pretty well. Very useful for adjusting the UI, TC, ABS, camera, video recording, etc. without much effort.

Don't get me wrong, AC should have D-pad support for the menus and stuff. But the keyboard is a much better interface IMO.

Hopefully they port the console menus to PC when they're done for those that want it.

I've just "bought" it and can access it through the Kindle Cloud Reader thing (read.amazon.co.uk)

ps: UK link http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B019WQFEIK

pps: thanks for free stuff... I like free stuff :)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-Official-Force-Feedback-wheel/dp/B01N8QDFRE?th=1&psc=1

Found that option through Amazon UK - £280. I'm sure you could shop around and find a better deal somewhere though. Good luck :)

I'm playing on a Genius Twinwheel F1 (http://www.amazon.com/Genius-TwinWheel-F1-Vibration-Wheel/dp/B000ODVKUC/), it was the cheapest wheel I could find that wasn't total trash.

It isn't a "real" wheel for sure; it's pretty small and only turns 180 degrees. But I like playing with it and it could be a good low-risk way to decide if you want to move up to a better wheel, which is what I'm thinking of doing right now.

If you do end up getting that wheel I could send you the settings I'm using for it, it took a bit of trial and error to get it dialed in.

This game is awful with a gamepad. If you think it's good with a gamepad, wait until you try it with a wheel. Also I recommend a DFGT for a starter (might be able to find on craigslist for less than $100) as many will but it does not have a clutch. If you want a clutch, the next best value-oriented option is the logitech g27 but that will run you $200+ easily

Did you get an original power adapter?

I ran into a similar problem with the wheel seemed a little bit slow especially when you started up and FFB did indeed felt weaker. I found out that it was due to the power adapter because I use my gaming laptop charger (it at least went beyond the required voltage and amperage and it fitted; I'm no EET....don't scorn me!!) because I forgot it at my parents house when I showed case it with my Oculus Rift to friend and family. Didn't know what the problem was until I went back the next time and got it back and it came back alive strong making lots of noise like it use to.

Not sure if that's your problem in particular but make sure you have an original power adapter just to be safe: https://www.amazon.com/Original-Logitech-Power-Adapter-Racing/dp/B00742YOEU

I play ETS2 as well (picked it up during the Steam Winter Sale last year). It's a different experience for sure. I've delivered maybe a dozen loads so far? I put a TrackIR5 on my christmas list, and am hoping that makes it a little more enjoyable and makes the looking-around not so tedious.

It doesn't come over night and there are no simple tricks. Practice, Practice, Practice. Here are two really good resources:

Book: Ultimate Speed Secrets by Ross Bentley

Video: Skip Barber Going Faster

Enjoy and have fun :)

Read this book, seriously. I've been sim racing for almost a decade and have been reading it recently and even though I know the vast majority of stuff in it I'm still picking up helpful tidbits, or finding new ways to think about stuff. I wish I had read it when I got started. Even though I got fairly good very quickly, I would have reached my current level much faster if I had read the book back then.

I purchased mine on the 20th and received it on the 22nd. I was able to get the difference credited to my account through the Amazon chat within a few minutes. Saved me ~$57 for other uses.

All I wrote was:

> Hello I purchased the G27 racing wheel less than a week ago for $248.35+tax and it just went on sale to $191.99. Is there any way I can get the difference in cost credited to my account?

>Order: XXX-XXXX-XXXX

>Item: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NT9TK4)

>Thanks, Name Here

I have a DFGT, and just started with racing sims earlier this year. I would start with an easier car like the BMW E30, or the Mazda MX-5 if you have the Japanese pack (definitely avoid 80's supercars to start with). Get good at driving those first. Watch videos, read books like "Going Nowhere Fast in Assetto Corsa" by Amen Zwa. I'd leave the setups alone for now. They are usually reasonable, though tweaking them once you get more familiar will help you shave off some additional time.

With the FFB, I think you are referring to torque steer, which can happen if you gun it with some cars, steering kickback or similar. There's also more resistance to turning as you go faster. That's normal.

Pedals are crap on the DFGT, but the brake pedal at least can be helped with foam blocks. (Skip through the video to get the idea - it's a bit long-winded.) You'll probably want to upgrade at some point. This is certainly not helping with spinning out at the corners.

As a Driving Force GT owner I second this. I wish I would have bought the G27 instead. I've heard people say the FFB is very similar if a bit smoother, and the wheel is generally a bit more quiet than the DFGT. The real bonus comes from having an H-shifter and 3rd pedal to play around with.

I'm sure if I had just bought a G27 I wouldn't be looking to get something new now, but I'm outgrowing my DFGT. (also the G27 is still on sale on Amazon)

EDIT: here is the buying guide you were looking for.

$30 too expensive?

This is working pretty well for me for the time being.

Not necessarily, they have a ton of low-end for their size. They do sound better with a subwoofer, but that's true of most setups. If you don't want to spend that kind of money, the Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 is hard to beat.

Logitech G27 at $199 right now on amazon, it's a very good deal

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-941-000045-G27-Racing-Wheel/dp/B001NT9TK4

The Perfect Corner really helped me get faster.

That doesn't look bad except that the watts on the amp are low. Ideally you would want a 400 watt amp so you could send 100 watts to each bass shaker. If you are a "DIY" type of person check out my setup below.



This is my DIY bass shaker setup:

Amp: http://www.parts-express.com/4x100w-at-4-ohm-tk2050-class-t-digital-audio-amplifier-board--320-335

Power Supply: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPERNIGHT-24V-DC-14-6A-350W-Regulated-Switching-Power-SupplyTransformer-/331060676334?hash=item4d14c106ee:g:hV0AAMXQjWtRKt4z

Bass Shakers: http://www.amazon.com/Reckhorn-Bs-200-Tactile-Transducer-Theater/dp/B00AMH17GC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425568544&sr=8-5&keywords=bass+shaker

Second Sound card to drive amp: http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Sound-Blaster-Audigy-SB1550/dp/B00EO6X7PG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1402934998&sr=8-8&keywords=sound+card


Individual Components cost:

Bass Shakers: 4 x $40

Power Supply: 1 x $24

Amp: 1 x $50

Sound card: 1 x $30

DIY Total for a 4 bass shaker setup: $264

Examples:

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/724042-My-DIY-SimVibe-racing-rig

http://www.overclock.net/t/1354257/project-log-my-diy-simvibe-racing-rig

Racing Sims:
Use SimVibe for racing sims($90).

Absolutely. A Logitech driving force GT is a good starting wheel.

Yes it went up on price, but on amazon you find it cheaper than logitech website: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-941-000045-G27-Racing-Wheel/dp/B001NT9TK4

Highly recommend the Ebook "Going Nowhere Fast in Assetto Corsa"
https://www.amazon.com/Going-Nowhere-Assetto-Corsa-2017-05-18-ebook/dp/B00NS918M4

It is on sale right now on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-941-000045-G27-Racing-Wheel/dp/B001NT9TK4/

http://camelcamelcamel.com/Logitech-941-000045-G27-Racing-Wheel/product/B001NT9TK4?context=browse

Watch Amazon, the price has been all over the place the last 3 months or so. NewEgg usually follows what Amazon does. got mine for $205 back in september, but i've seen it hit $190 since.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-Wheel/dp/B01N7WRPYI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493040690&sr=8-1&keywords=tmx+pro

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-T300-Racing-Wheel-PS4/dp/B01N8QDFRE/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1493040718&sr=1-1&keywords=t300+gt

Depends on your budget of course.

This is the cheapest decent wheel that I know of that works on both- Thrustmaster TX

Here it is for a little more in amazon.co.uk http://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-G27-Racing-Wheel-pedals/dp/B00CJ5FP1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416777517&sr=8-1&keywords=g27

http://driver61.com/uni

https://www.amazon.com/Going-Nowhere-Assetto-Corsa-2016-03-23-ebook/dp/B00NS918M4

Others are reporting it's working now

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B019WQFEIK