(Part 2) Top products from r/audio

Ok, Thank you. Here is a similar setup to what I use. My personal one is a bit more sophisticated but nonetheless, these items will certainly get you started and aim you in the right direction.

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Let's start with the Mixer:

Your mixer will be your new interface. Rather than plugging one microphone into your computer you'll plug all your microphones into one mixer which then will be connected to your computer via USB.

Microphone - Mixer - Computer

Here is a good starter at a decent price. It'll be your most expensive single piece of equipment (unless you decide to get top tier microphones). You'll be able to EQ and set levels to each microphone hooked up to the mixer before sending it to Audacity (or Audition, Reaper). You can also hook up more than 3 mics, a guitar, your phone, maybe you want to hook your computer up to it to play a sound, basically anything that sends one signal to another, you'll be able to do it with this and record it.

• Behringer QX1202USB 12-Channel Mixer
  
  -
  
  Next Microphones:
  
  If you're able to hook up a mic cable (XLR) to your Blue Yeti, you can still use that microphone, too. Obviously, switch your polar pattern to cardioid that way it's more directional and doesn't pick up as much room noise. Also, try to point it away from your AC unit. Regardless, since the Blue Yeti is a condenser microphone, it'll pick up more room noise because it's much more sensitive. That's why in broadcast situations you'll always see dynamic microphones such as the Electrovoice RE20 or Shure SM7b. For your own sake, I would do some research on condenser vs dynamic but any website you shop at (or if you go to Guitar Center in person) you can filter microphones by condenser or dynamic. I highly recommend buying yourself 3 dynamic microphones to reduce room noise.
  
  Here are my microphone recommendations:
  
  
• Cheap - Behringer XM8500 - You'll likely need a mount and windscreen or pop filter
  
• Low - Shure SM58 - You'll likely need a mount and windscreen or pop filter
  
• Mid - Rode Procaster - No mount, windscreen/pop filter necessary
  
• Best - Electrovoice RE20 - No mount, windscreen/pop filter necessary
  
  -
  
  Finally, your Accessories:
  
  You'll need 3 XLR's to hook 3 microphones up to the mixer. I recommend purchasing them from monoprice.com - very cheap cables that last a long time if you learn to wrap your cable correctly.
  
  Same with your microphone stands:
  
  
• Simple Tripod Microphone Stand
  
  Most microphones you buy will come with the mount for it. If you get the Behringer XM8500 or the Shure SM58 you might need one of these if it doesn't come with it:
  
  
• Mount
  
  Also, for both of those mics I definitely recommend buy either a pop filter or wind screen to put over top to reduce plosives. If you don't know what plosives are, google it. You wont need to worry about plosives if you purchase the Rode Procaster or RE20.
  
  
• Windscreens
  
• Pop Filter
  
  
  One very last thing to mention is headphones. Through the mixer, there is a headphone jack where you can plug headphones in to monitor the mix. However, there is also something called "Main Out" or "Control Room Out" - you can send your vocal mix to an external Headphone Amplifier/Splitter that way you and your friends can all listen to the mix in real time.
  
  Audacity is a good program but I recommend getting familiar with Reaper The trial version is free version and I think after the 60 day evaluation you're still allowed to use it although it may press you to buy it. I personally use Adobe Audition but that requires a subscription. If Audacity works fine for you, then by all means.
  
  I apologize for the long post and I hope it's not too overwhelming. Mixer, Microphones, Cables, Stands, and headphone splitter is basically what this whole post is about! Feel free to ask questions.
  
  If all else fails just find a podcasting kit to purchase from somewhere and go from there http://www.bswusa.com/Podcasting-Packages-BSW-Internet-Radio-Going-Pro-Kit-Dual-P10534.aspx

Difficult, especially for that money. I would suggest a Headphone/DAC/PreAmp. The USB could feed the DAC which would drive the Headphones, but also the Pre-Amp outs. Though I don't know of any specific brand, I know there are many of these out there.

But that means you wil have to have come active Speakers for non-Headphone listening. The Pair I most often recommend are the Mackie MR5 but they run about $130 EACH. Though there are KRK Rokit RP5 at a similar price, and other brands as well.

Perhaps something like this, though I don't know all the details on the device -

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-V2-Headphone-Amplifier-Decoder/dp/B00WSKUZIM

It has Audio Line Outs, so I assume it also acts as a pre-amp.

Actually, the SMSL AD18 looks pretty good. It has Amps built in so you could use it with passive speakers -

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Bluetooth-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B01MY96MKC

The Power on these tend to be over rated, but it should still have very good power for near-field listening.

For passive speakers, the Yamaha NS-6490 are probably good in a room in general, but a bit big and less good for Desktop listening. Excellent speakers for the money if they are not going to be on a desktop.

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-NS-6490-Bookshelf-Speakers-Finish/dp/B00018Q4GA

The Yamaha RS202 Receiver ($150), physically bit larger, but it has 100/ch, AM/FM, and Bluetooth. Though no digital Inputs. Still for $100 you can get the Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_022RS202/Yamaha-R-S202.html?tp=47041

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_703DGNFLYB/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-v1-5.html

In smaller speakers, I think they very good sounding Q Acoustic 3020 sound very tight but with modest bass. Still good for Desktop though. Here is a video review/demo of the 3020 (~$280/pr).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgfLYK7Fyes

https://www.amazon.com/Acoustics-3020-Bookshelf-Speakers-Graphite/dp/B00TR7I1EY

That might work out better than what you have, but if you really want quality audio, you need to invest a little more into it. Getting a proper condensor mic like the Audio Technical AT2020 here would be a great place to start. You would then probably need an audio interface to connect it to like this or a mixer like this. Do your research and a lot of it. There are a lot of good options out there to improve your audio quality, but all options involve investing a descent amount of money as hard as that is to hear. Research, find what you really want no matter the price, and save, save, save until you have it.

The Swans M10 are very good for their price (currently $90), but naturally there will be much better sounding systems at higher price points.

If you can stretch your budget to around $260, this would be a decent setup you could put together for that price:

• Micca MB-42X Bookshelf Speakers ($90)
  
• Orb Audio Mini T V3 Amplifier ($73)
  
• Polk Audio PSW10 Powered Subwoofer ($99)
  
  I believe either of the systems I suggested fit the bill if all you want is something enjoyable for casual listening.
  
  But if you can hold off on buying until you have a bigger budget, either of the two recommendations made by /u/animus_desit are excellent choices at their price point and would let you hear just how great a good 2.1 speaker setup can sound.

I don't live in Europe anymore so I don't know what websites you guys use. I'm going to link what the American version is and you can probably find a website in Europe that has them for near the same price. It's slightly over budget by about 50 bucks, but, I'd be lying if these bookshelfs and amp are not some of the best I've ever put my hands on while still on a budget.

[Amplifier] (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/yamaha-200w-2-ch-stereo-receiver-black/5037100.p?skuId=5037100&ref=212&loc=1&ksid=cb12c1b5-f826-4bcf-972c-b3a5386e8150&ksprof_id=16&ksaffcode=pg118898&ksdevice=c&lsft=ref:212,loc:2&gclid=CL6wgqzTs9ACFReXfgod3rAH1w)

[Speakers] (https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479518492&sr=8-1&keywords=SB+22+LR)

I use those bookshelfs for my home setup and I also have two 12'' subwoofers under the desk hooked up to 3000 watts. Sometimes, I shit you not I'll walk over to the gain on my subwoofer amp and turn it down because the bass is just rolling, but it's the bookshelf speakers that are producing those lows and I'll be blown away. Music and movies are a great experience and for 60 bucks a speaker It's the best deal as far as sound quality goes. I would put them on mark with some of the reference monitors are use at work.

I used the receiver in a build I did and I like it, functionality is great. It doesn't have a sub out but it has input options and supports bluetooth. I'd get a RCA to 1/8th TRS cable aswell. You don't really need a subwoofer with these speakers, they imitate having a 8'' (50w) sub under the desk pretty much.

Something like the Blue Yeti may suit. It's a multi-pattern USB microphone. If your mixer is worth its salt, you should be able to output from your computer via an audio interface or simply use a line out to a separate channel.

I personally use the Audio Technica AT-2020 XLR version (this also has a USB version) for recording a bit of vocal work, including rap and some spoken word stuff. It works great on voice and acoustic guitars. However that doesn't solve the lack of phantom power. If it picks up too much ambience (which it definitely can) ease off on the gain a bit and speak louder.

A dynamic mic like this Nady may work as well, however this type can be quite sensitive and will pick up ambient noise.

I don't know if your budget stretches this high ($430), but the Electro Voice RE20 is in my opinion the gold standard for spoken word and radio type stuff that isn't a condenser microphone. It's dynamic, so it doesn't require phantom power, it has a cardioid pattern which will help filter out ambient noise and it just sounds fantastic to my ears. Even though it is quite pricey, it will stand the test of time and providing you take care of it, it will hold its value.

TL;DR: No phantom power requirement, not too sensitive, inexpensive. Pick two.

(Just realised the Shure SM58 might also fit the bill, but it won't give you that sexy radio voice. However, you can abuse the hell out of those things and they will still work and ask for more.)

Hope I've been helpful.

Ok now I have a better understanding of what you're looking for. It sounds like you're only going to do music. If that's the case it makes things a lot easier as you don't have all the sources to deal with. So basically you're looking for a bedroom setup with b channel outputs to the living room. Cool I think I found a solution for you.

• AVR $180 this a bit older 5.1 AVR but it has B front output at a very reasonable cost. I would only do two sets of speakers right now but if you wanted to could expand to a 5.1 later down the road.
  
  Speaker options (just some they are many in your budget) I'm thinking towers or bigger bookshelf speakers for volume and less need for a sub right away. Towers won't need stands the bookshelves will unless you put them on furniture.
  
  
• Fluance AVHTB get this set and be done with it. Run the towers in the living room and the surrounds in the bedroom. Easy solution to your problem. Save the center for when you want to go surround sound. The surrounds in the bedroom might need a sub as they don't go too low. You could always get one later on and hook it up to the sub out on the AVR for a 2.1 in the bedroom.
  
  
• Onkyo Speakers get two sets one for each location. I don't think you're going to find cheaper towers that are decent.
  
  
• Sony SS-5000 towers a bit more than the Onkyo but should do well.
  
  
• BIC DV64 or DIC DV84 you won't need a sub with these unless you want one for extra bass. Sold each so you would need two for the living room. Could also put in the bedroom but I think a set of the DV62's in the bedroom should be enough. These should rock.
  
  
• Bic DV62 bookself speakers for bed room or living room.
  
  
• Fluance SX6
  
  
• Yamaha NS6490 should do well in either location.
  
  
  
  
  
  

We're gonna need your budget in order to help. But A 2.1 setup is definitley the way to go to upgrade ehar you have. Sell those. They are very popular. If you want strictly a computer speaker setup, a 2 channel amp is probably fine. My bestbuy has a really weak bookshelf speaker selection, but you probably at least have the pioneer andrew jones speakers. They are well reviewed. If you have a nice discount they might be a good idea. Also a simple rule is the bigger they are, the louder and lower they get.

/r/zeos has a good 2.1 guide and /r/budgetaudiophile has great extensive speaker recommendation list. If you want to really rock, the pioneers may not be ideal.


These yamaha are massive bangers to blow your face off.

http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-NS-6490-Bookshelf-Speakers-Finish/dp/B00018Q4GA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1421977443&sr=8-3&keywords=yamaha+speakers

2 of these would be good too. Smaller.

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Primus-Two-way-Bookshelf-Satellite/dp/B0045NCB32/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421977463&sr=8-2&keywords=infinity+primus



Smsl amp http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC

Sub http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015A8Y5M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421962220&sr=8-1


But read through the the zeos guide and the sidebars.

I use this and am extremely happy. It's an analog setup and I only use computers, so that is fine with me, but if you want to use it with game consoles / DVD players / STB's, you might want to get an actual receiver (I've heard good things about Onkyo's TX-NR series.

• Tripath amplifier
  
• Dayton speakers
  
  
• Polk PSW-10
  
• A RCA piggyback cable setup to run audio to the subs and the mains, not using a crossover on the mains right now but I plan on getting one or building one at some point.
  
  This setup is really cheap but very very good sounding for the price, plus if you want to upgrade to a 5.1 or something with a receiver later, it makes a great secondary system for a kitchen or bedroom.

At their current price of $109 a pair, the Pioneers are a better value: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t

However, if you're willing to spend a little more to be in the $200 range, these are a clear step up from both the Pioneers and the Teacs for a desktop setup.

Wavecrest Audio HVL-1's: $200 (use discount code 'jman' to get 15% off the regular price of $230) These are fantastic, tonally balanced and accurate speakers, especially for the price - it makes them a great desktop solution: http://www.wavecrestaudio.com/products/hvl-1-two-way-loudspeaker-pair
A subjective review here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/speaker-subwoofer-reviews/72159-wave-crest-audio-hvl-1-speaker-review.html

EMP Tek E5Bi - $225, these sound as beautiful as they look, and the tower versions of these were Audioholics' 2009 Speaker of the Year with performance far surpassing their price: http://emptek.com/e5bi.php

Your problem is the lack of an actual preamp. Phantom Power does not do anything to the actual microphone signal level, it merely provides the capacitor circuitry in a condenser microphone with the power necessary to operate. However, the output from that microphone is still going to be extremely low. (Microphones are generally -40 to -60 dBv, which is 100 to 1000 times weaker than the signal powering your speakers, for example.) Microphone inputs on motherboards are notoriously craptastic as well.

Vileem's suggestion to try using the USB output on the UPM-1 is a good one - this is probably going to provide you with a much stronger signal to your computer. If you want to keep things analog until they hit the motherboard, then you need a preamp that also provides phantom power. Something like the ART TubeMP - but this could lead to other problems as you may run into phasing issues or left-channel-only issues when plugging into a computer input. This is why USB preamps are generally preferred.

If you want cheap and effective, my recommendation would be to send the UPM-1 back, and get something like the Behringer UM2 - for $30, it handles phantom power, it has direct monitoring (meaning you can hear the microphone right as you speak, instead of after passing through the motherboard and OS which adds latency), has nice big dials for controlling level on top, and also acts as a secondary sound card (output device) as well - honestly it will likely sound better than your motherboard's sound card.

The is a Behringer Xenyx 302USB which can be found here. I think it can send audio from the mixer to the PC as well as receive audio via USB, which can serve as the audio output of my PC. Also, The 3.5mm output from my monitor, which would ouput the sound from an HDMI input, seems as if it would have to go on 2-Track given the Line/USB toggling. This seems like the best solution for outputting PC audio and gaming audio simultaneously if I want to hear both. I know of other ways to acheive this without a mixer, but it results in static from my motherboard's on-board audio and I wouldn't get the added benefits this would bring, such as being able to control the volume easily and transmit audio from and actual XLR microphone.

Do I have the right idea with this? Will this work? 2-Track input doesn't have a way to control the audio on the mixer, but i'm sure I could just turn down the main mix and volume up on USB to balance it all out if needed?

Is it also safe to do? I don't know anything about audio and i'm afraid of causing a short circuit on something.

Is he a stickler for super high quality audio?

If you're not going for the absolute best, but want something that sounds pretty damn good at a relatively reasonable price, take a look at this

I actually use this on my pc for movies and gaming and even basic music production and I love them.

A couple things:

• What do you mean by Streaming PC? Is it for streaming youtube videos into your house, or is it for streaming gaming videos out of your house? Are you using it for both?
  
  
• Does the HDMI connection between the the two PCs carry audio as well as video?
  
  
• What's an AT2020? It's in your diagram, but not listed here.
  
  
• Out to MIC does not make sense. A microphone is an input. Do you mean out to headphones (or a gaming headset with integrated headphones and microphone)?
  
  
• (Related to the question above) Do you have speakers or a headset? Where are they plugged in?
  
  
• What model of audio mixer are you using? They differ hugely between models. Chances are that the USB connection on yours is bidirection, so audio from your gaming computer can come out of the mixer, but audio that's in the mixer can also go into the computer.
  
  
• Final question: How are the people in your discord party hearing the audio when you play a youtube video? Are they hearing it through your microphone?
  
  [Edit] After a quick googling, this is your mic, right? AT2020
  
  And you're using a Yamaha MG10XU mixer, right? This is the manual for it (PDF) Assuming you have your headphones plugged into the mixer where you labeled MIC, and that you're using the mixer as your microphone's input to your gaming computer, the problem that you're running into is that the computer and your headphones will always get the same audio.
  
  That Yamaha has kind of a "dumb" USB audio interface built into it: It only has one stereo channel output that goes to the computer. That same stereo channel is the one that's referred to as "ST" on the board, and in the manual, and is controlled by the knob marked STEREO at the bottom right of the board. Effectively, there are a bunch of ways to get audio out of that mixer (the couple pairs of outputs on the top that you can connect to an amplifier, the headphone jack, and the USB interface), but there's only one thing you can get with them: the ST channel. Every input that you connect to the board: the microphone, the streaming computer, etc, will get combined into that one stereo channel. The gaming computer is the notable exception. The board must have some kind of logic to prevent summing the USB input back into the USB output.
  
  Some higher-end (and more expensive) mixers will have USB audio interfaces with many channels. Some even will allow you to pick off every single input that the mixer has, and output it individually to the computer. Unfortunately, since this board does not do that, you either need to return it and get something that works better for you, use it a bit differently, or get another piece of equipment that will work alongside the board.
  
  If you keep the board, you need to decide whether you want to use it to connect the microphone to your gaming computer, or whether you want to use it to mix together the outputs from your two computers into your headphones. It cannot do both without combining all of the audio together like it's doing now.

Fellow Panasonic plasma owner here.


You're gonna need a DAC (digital-to-analog converter) to change the digital signal from the TV (over the Toslink cable) into an analog audio signal over red and white RCA cables. The way I see it you have 2 options.




Powered Speaker Option - $428

• Fiio D3 DAC - $28
  
  Digital conversion is a pretty mature technology. You don't need to spend any more than this on a DAC.
  
  
  
• Audioengine A5+ $400
  
  
  If you don't want a receiver, these are the #1 most recommended and well-reviewed powered speaker pair around.
  
  
  Passive Speaker Option - $268
  
  
  
• Fiio D3 DAC - $28
  
  
  See above.
  
  
  
• Yamaha stereo receiver - $150
  
  
  Not a home theater receiver just two nice big amplifiers and some basic switching capability. You can control the volume with your cable box remote or buy a cheap Harmony universal remote they're really fantastic.
  
  
  
• Pioneer bookshelf speakers - $90
  
  
  One of the most highly recommended bookshelf speaker pairs to come around in a long time.

Can't say what the SUB filter button is for, but the Scott 355R Receiver was made between 1978-1980, long before subwoofers came into play and those were for surround sound systems or AV receivers, not stereo receivers. Even the earliest surround sound systems didn't incorporate a subwoofer in the mix. All they had were two rear surround speakers, not even a center channel. Subwoofers and center channels came later when the systems became 5.1 surround sound systems.

You can add a subwoofer if you get the right type, like this one for instance;

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer-Single/dp/B0002KVQBA

The speaker leads from your receiver get connected to the Speaker Level Inputs on the subwoofer and then your speakers get connected to the Speaker Level Outputs. https://ibb.co/Bz2542n

Yes you will need an antenna for the best radio sound and to pull in more radio stations.

On those two, judging by verified reviews build quality is 'meh' and sound quality is mediocre, which is normal for the price. Personally I would stay away from such product no matter price.

If you could get hands on set of used active studio monitors that would be best solution (linear response, mostly good build quality). For such low budget it is really only option - buy used. See how at /r/BudgetAudiophile do it.

Or as honglorn said, get Klipsch set. Save some dollars and buy those a week or two later. It is popular set and works, judging by reviews, quite well.

https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504252511&sr=8-1&keywords=klipsch+computer+speakers

You're unlikely to find a mixer that has those inputs built in. Your best bet would be to use adapters for all those sources and just plug those in on the 1/4in jacks. Keeping in mind though that you should also look for mixers that support panning individual channels; each jack on a mixer typically just supports mono audio, so you'd have to send it back to left / right.

For example, I use a Mackie 402 on my desk. If I want to plug in a stereo line on channels 1 and 2, that "STEREO PAN" button has to be enabled to keep it from mono'ing them both.

Off the top of my head, something like the X Air series supports linking two channels and simultaneously controlling them + L/R panning them, for multiple channels, which you would probably need with your amount of inputs. A quick look and the Mackie ProFX12 would also probably suit your needs. Both of these are probably a little overkill for exactly what you need, but generally they both have the ability to properly handle your sources once they're in 1/4in form.

I'm kind of going on at length on this because I 100% did not consider it as a problem to be aware of when buying my mixer for my purposes and just lucked out that everything works.

For those adapters, a bluetooth receiver and appropriate cables for that particular unit, optical converter, and if "A/V audio" means RCA, just slap that RCA-1/4 from earlier in as well.

This would be best as a gift :

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-System-Bluetooth-Technology-GTK-XB72/dp/B07PBFKXW9/ref=sxin_0_ac_d_pm?ac_md=4-2-QmV0d2VlbiAkMTUwIGFuZCAkMzAw&keywords=sony+bluetooth+speaker&pd_rd_i=B07PBFKXW9&pd_rd_r=78ee09fb-cec9-465f-98a6-7d60015fab7f&pd_rd_w=JVPdS&pd_rd_wg=eZKmZ&pf_rd_p=64aaff2e-3b89-4fee-a107-2469ecbc5733&pf_rd_r=HDCYMB8KJMHEMGTPENWZ&qid=1564251469&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Also,you could always also choose to gift these together,would last a lifetime of sound,way greater value for money.I would get these but where Im at but import costs more.anyways,these are way better value for money IMO :

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-NS-6490-Bookshelf-Speakers-Finish/dp/B00018Q4GA/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1MLPWO3G99XBY&keywords=polk+t15&qid=1564251543&s=gateway&sprefix=polk+t1%2Caps%2C363&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated-Speakers/dp/B076P2VS9H/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=amplifier&qid=1564251573&s=gateway&sr=8-6

I'm taking a look at them now and they look pretty nice. I've also been looking into the Klipsch Pr​oMedia 2.1​ THX (link here: http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41kgImde1TL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0CC3XNF0S93EP5WQTWPF) and it's got some pretty good reviews. Heard anything about it?

HD650 are 300 ohm headphones, give them a proper headphone amp. You can get the Schitt DAC, but don't cheap on the amp to power them. I've had HD650 for years and tried them on magni and it's not powerful enough to let those headphones sing also you can hook up some bookshelf speakers to it so doubles as a speaker amp.

https://emotiva.com/products/a-100

Z review
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKgA6qyOCWQ

Asus Xonar is ok but how about a Focusrite Scarlett, has a decent Digital to Analog AND if you get XLR Rode mic you can plug up directly to it and do quality analog to digital input to your computer it even supports phantom power in the mic pre in case the mic needs it. The headphone amp on the scarlett won't power the HD650 properly (you can google this).

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM

What I've suggested cost a bit more but I think you'll be happy with the results, but at very least get a good amp for those headphones.

If you want to manage 3-4 inputs, you will be better off getting an AVR. Accessories4less has really good prices and options.

An AVR will let you switch between multiple sources - whether they are HDMI video sources (gaming for example, or Roku) or digital audio sources, or analog audio sources. Besides this, an AVR will also amplify the signal, and also has an inbuilt DAC, so you can hook up passive speakers that are a lot less expensive than powered speakers. For example, you could hook it up to Pioneer BS22 bookshelf speakers for $130, or buy the FS52 floorstanders for $250 a pair (in which case you will not need a separate subwoofer)

Most entry level AVRs will not have a phono preamp. Assuming your TT does not have an inbuilt phono, you will likely need to buy a separate one. You can buy a Rolls VP29 for $50 from Amazon, or if you want to spend more, you could buy Schiit Mani or the Pro-Ject Phono Box - both sell for $130.

AVR plus speakers plus phono - you could still pull this off for under $500 and get decent sound quality. You can also look at used AVRs - they can often be had for half price or less (especially if they are slightly older - as AVRs are all about latest and greatest features - so now, AVRs that do not support 4k will sell for steep discounts). Look at usaudiomart for example.

Standard Sound Guy Headphones from Sony. They are designed to be very accurate, they come very close to reproducing the sound signal the way it is. Most other headphones color the sound in some way which is fine if it happens to suit your taste but for me, I want the sound as close to way it was recorded and mixed as possible.

There are more expensive headphones that are more accurate, but they are comfy and durable and nearly every working sound engineer has a pair or three. (I own two) so they are the best set that fit your budget.

EDIT:

I actually at work right now (I'm a video recording tech so I need to listen to the video recorder's audio input often) and me as well as three other guys on the crew today all have a pair of those Sony's.

Perfect.

Your headset uses a plug called TRRS, and your splitter splits that to a pair of TRS plugs.

Buy a Behringer UCA222 and a pair of TRS female to RCA Male adapters (specific model for this adapter doesn't matter, this one is just an example).

Steps:

1. Plug the headset into the splitter as you're doing now
   
   
2. Plug each side of the split cable into one of those adapters.
   
   
3. Plug the adapted microphone side for the headset into the Behringer's Input channel
   
   
4. Plug the adapted speaker side for the headset into the Behringer's Output channel.
   
   
5. Plug the Behringer UCA222 into your computer (it's USB).
   
   
6. Select it as the default input and output device in Windows.
   
   
7. Set your computer's output level to about 75.
   
   
8. Flick the "Monitor" switch on the Behringer UCA222 to On
   
   
9. Use the volume knob on the Behringer to control headset speaker volume.
   
   
10. Adjust the headset microphone gain using Windows' built-in system. You probably won't have to.
    
    
11. When you want to switch to your speakers instead of your headset, use the Windows sound output control panel to switch your output device. Some software may allow you to select a specific device within it, if you want some things going through speakers while others go through your headset.

Hundred bucks won't get you too much pro gear or pro-sumer, but this is what I use just for gaming/music/etc. - nothing involving any serious 'critical listening'. But I really like them, and I actually shopped around and found them for 80 bucks partially used/like new, and I'm pretty happy with the results.

That makes it easier. You can try the simplest solution first, use an AUX cable from the line out on the second PC into the line in on the primary and enable "Listen to this device" under Windows audio settings.

If you want to use hardware, you can get small stereo mixers in varying prices. There are passive mixers that could lower the volume on the stereo channel and active mixers that can keep the volume but also boost it.

Those are the best results I could weed out on Amazon that has stereo channels but I have no clue about the quality of those mixers as I have never used either of them. You will also need 3 pairs of 3.5mm to RCA cables, two for the computers and one for the headphone.

Beaky is right, at that price you can find an interface with built in pre's. Way better.

120 shipped with prime refurb:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005OZE9SA/ref=dp_olp_refurbished?ie=UTF8&condition=refurbished

Model up new shipped with prime for 138
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B009B15N0Q/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new


These act as offboard sound cards, headphone amps, dacs and can drive 2 xlr mics in stereo. Way better deal/upgrade overall. You could probably find em even cheaper, I just searched 'focusrite' on amazon. The focusrite scarlet series is fantastic for the price.

In my opinion, I'd go with an audio interface and then monitors. Which is basically what you posted. However, that one would be tricky.

The first thing you did wrong was not post a price range for your project so I'm going to just give you the setup I have.

You're looking for a USB Audio Interface. The one you posted is an audio interface but not a digital one. Here is what I have:
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466497870&sr=8-2&keywords=focusrite+scarlett+2i2

^This one has two 1/4" outputs for a pair of speakers.

There is a smaller one, too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM?psc=1
This has RCA output for a pair of speakers that use RCA.

Now, these are for music studios so they have XLR and 1/4" inputs for microphones or instruments. However, they have the headphone jack and two outputs on the back for a pair of speakers.

Depending on what speakers you get, you'll want to look at how they hook up - either 1/4" cable or RCA cables (the Red and White inputs).

For example, say you want to buy these studio monitors. https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR3-Creative-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E/ref=sr_1_37?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1466498231&sr=1-37&keywords=studio+monitors&refinements=p_36%3A1253547011

They have both 1/4" and RCA on the back. Studio Monitors vary in quality and sound. Ideally they are designed with a flat frequency response so they don't "color" the audio. However, you can always run some kind of equalizer on your computer.

In summary, purchase an audio interface and two studio "monitors" or speakers. It works great for gaming, movies, and music. You can build shelves to wall mount or buy stands for them. You may even be able to find some kind of wall accessory that attaches to the speakers.

For inexpensive speakers, I've been knocked out by these for the price. Sound good on music or TV audio, reasonably efficient, nice bass. Also nice size and wife-pleasing.

First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.

​

If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.

​

If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).

​

If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.

Not really without changing your setup. This is the great downside to USB mics and headphones, you have to connect them to a computer making them very limited. So as it stands you could maybe work with some variation of this -

USB mic into computer 1 ---> output of computer 1 to interface.

Computer 2 ----------------> output to interface

Interface -------------------> outputs to headphones and/or speakers.

So you would need an audio interface, cables(probably RCA jacks), and non-USB heaphones

Replace any gear as needed, these are not really professional standard but should work for what you're doing, also I didn't know your budget. Good luck!

You will likely want an actual audio interface.

Behringer has a number of cheap USB mixers. That will give you a simple EQ, gain, and simple mixing with physical knobs. This might be better to learn on?

Edit: for a little more, this one would give you a few more features to play with and learn on, and give you more capacity down the road if you get into it a little more.

According to this your TV has an optical audio output (SPDIF). You'll get much better sound quality if you use that instead of the headphone output.

Use this to convert that digital into analog (output over RCA cables): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4ORTZ6/

Then an amplifier to output to speaker wires: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ (or, slightly cheaper in black: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2P61FO/)

Cables you'll need, if you don't have them already, are a Toslink/SPDIF cable, a stereo RCA cable, and speaker wires. Buy them from Monoprice, or get ripped off buying them from somewhere else.

If you want even cheaper, you can forego the digital-to-analog converter and connect the headphone output straight to the amp, but if it were me I'd spend the extra $20 on the DAC.

Edit: after some more Amazon searching, I'd go with this DAC instead. A few bucks more, but much better reviews, includes a Toslink cable, and is powered by a standard micro-USB (cell phone charger) plug.

These two items will do the trick:

1. http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
   
   
2. http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/
   
   You can find them on eBay, too. Also, I wouldn't recommend plugging headphones directly into a device like this; the signal will be at full volume (I'm pretty sure) and you won't have any way to turn the volume down. And those RCA outputs (red and white jacks) on the first item won't work if the audio signal from the HDMI source is more than 2 channels (like surround sound or something).
   
   And in case you didn't know, the reason you need a special device like the one above is because the audio signal that travels inside the HDMI cable is a digital signal, and the audio you plug into speakers or headphones is an analog signal. So that device converts the digital signal into an analog signal.
   

A few possible issues. Are you sure you're talking into the correct side of the mic? It has a cardioid pickup pattern, which means it's "Directional." You should be talking into the "side" of the mic that has the Audio-Technica logo, not the top.

What you could be describing is a mic/line mismatch. Your microphone is outputting "Mic Level", but your interface expect "Line Level" which is generally 'louder.' You could look for a "Microphone PreAmp" which is designed to take mic level signals and bring them up to line-level, or you could look for a better interface. Looks like this Focusrite is specifically meant for mics.

I don't think it's your cable or your drivers. Regarding the sleep issue... I dunno; try shutting down your computer instead of sleeping...? Windows machines can be flaky.

What does the adapter look like? I'm not sure what civilian plane jacks mean - do you mean the ones you plug into on regular flights for the in-seat entertainment?

If you can get another adapter to a stereo 1/4" plug, at $25 this would be in your price range with change:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultra-Compact-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482162286&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+amplifier

The stereo 1/4" plug would look like this (the one on top, the smaller one on the bottom is your regular headphone plug for scale): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36

Yeah I have enough mixer inputs but I need to get an adapter to convert my PS4 and WiiU audio into 3.5mm. Could I use something like this? Or do I need a full on converter like this?

Edit: Nvm I do need to box.

Don't connect anything to it other than passive speakers. Other than that it's not a bad item to own. I wouldn't recommend selling it.

You can get nice bookshelf speakers for under $100 dollars and they will sound excellent. http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=sr_1_7?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1452455684&sr=1-7&keywords=bookshelf+speakers

The mic is decent for its price range. The headphones are good but they're absolutely overkill if all you're doing is editing voiceover work; i'd spend less there and more on the microphone. I also don't like USB microphones. Their drivers are often sub-par, and they limit future expandability. ATH-M50x or Sony MDR-7506 with an AT2020 (this comes with its own iso enclosure - best way to not pick up noise on a budget) and a Scarlett Solo would be my recommendation. You will also want a pop filter.

http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457932933&sr=8-1&keywords=klipsch+promedia+2.1

Used to own these. Great sounding with a dedicated subwoofer volume control.

Does the wire matter much? For example the one you linked is just under $20, yet I found this one that's under $9.

I am using onboard sound, so I will pick up that DAC as well. Thanks so damn much man, I'm eager to start having ear sex with my new speakers.

Four connecting your record player, you'll need an RCA cable with a ground cable; something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CRA-202DJ-Right-Angle-Ground-Interconnect/dp/B000PO1H80/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1473063914&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+cable+ground

The speakers you can connect with speaker wire like this one: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1473064034&sr=1-4&keywords=speaker+wire
Just make sure you don't switch + and -

From pictures of the receiver, it has an "INPUT" knob which is leftmost of the row of 4 knobs on the front panel. It also has a "DOCK IN" input on the back, which seems like it would be the least confusing place to plug it in. And yes, you would just plug it into the RCA connectors.

If the advertisement literally says Bluetooth, ~~ I would get a Bluetooth receiver in order to avoid complications. Although I have never used it personally, this Logitech Bluetooth receiver seems popular, and there are several similar ones.

Black = Rear left and right.
Green = Front left and right.
Orange = Center and Subwoofer.

You need a cable like this

Connect to the green cable.

If you can return/exchange your audio converter, you might get something like this instead so that you can take advantage of your subwoofer and surround capabilities -- I don't know (nor have I used) the particular one in the link, it is just here as an example of the type.

Hmm ok. They seem to be a bit high on the price range tough. I found those : https://www.amazon.ca/Boston-Acoustics-A25GB-0XX00-Gloss-Black/dp/B004LA96M8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464095152&sr=8-3&keywords=boston+acoustics+bookshelf

135$/each

Would there be a major difference with the polks ? Also, i am guessing i would be better to just run a 2.1 setup for music VS using 5.1 in a ''surround'' type of sound since it's for outside.

So far my top pick was those :
https://www.amazon.ca/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1464095429&sr=1-1&keywords=pioneer+bs22

The Polk Audio PSW10 seems to be very well liked, according to Amazon reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1464433778&sr=1-1&keywords=subwoofer

Honestly, there's your answer - maybe even using an extender if there's not enough room. This makes sense because the front audio ports go through a cable internally before going into your mobo - and there's just a lot of interference inside any case. I have always experienced front audio issues - I can't even stand using headphones from there.

One idea: if you have $30 this cheap USB audio interface might work for you (if it works with your mic) (idk what the model differences are here) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0023BYDHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1419455961&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40# or http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1419455961&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70#

Edit: you'll need an adapter, like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I97G0U/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1419456342&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

That's what I am thinking. Seems like this makes sense:

3.5mm Audio Splitter into Computer -> 3.5mm - 50 ft -> 3.5mm to RCA Adapter -> Analog to Digital Adapater -- like you recommended -> [Audio Optical Cable into TV]

My only question is that a lot of these converters show a TosLink port, and I do not have knowledge of what that is compared to a SPDIF. Are they compatible, or...?

This, in my opinion, is the best bang for your buck as far as a USB interface goes. One channel. You can go for the Scarlett 2i2 for another $50 if you want a second input.

I am copy-pasting the relevant portion from Help - Cosplay (from our audio recorder app which is for Android) - it relates to how to connect the earphone jack to an external microphone and external speaker - i.e. a setup suitable for cosplay (but will give you some idea of the options):

Quote:

Capabilities of the earphone jack on Android devices

The earphone jack on your device has pins for 2 channel (stereo) output, and 1 channel (mono) input. This is the case for both Android devices and iOS devices. That is, you can only have mono microphone input. This is why headsets have stereo earphones, but only one microphones (mono).

Here is a website with a good explanation of the earphone jack on your android device, and what the pins on the jack are used for (stereo out and mono in) - see the section - External microphone through the headset port.

Audio Recording With a Smartphone





Recommendations for Y-splitter cables and external speakers

For the external speaker, one with a wired connection will work, and these cost from 5 USD to 10 USD.

Y-splitters are also cheap (1 USD to 5 USD), but finding ones that actually work is more difficult (since headphone splitters look very similar, or the Y-splitter is made incorrectly).

Here is a combination of Y-splitter and external speaker that is recommended by cosplayers (the external speaker comes with a wearable directional microphone suitable for cosplay). These are costly, but known to work:



Manufacturer direct order links:

Rockit Y-splitter - Cost 11.95 USD



VoiceBooster MR1505 (Aker) 12watt Voice Amplifier - SKU: MR1505-12W - Cost 54 USD



VoiceBooster MR1506 (Aker) 10watt Voice Amplifier - SKU: MR1506-10W - Cost 48 USD




Y-splitters available on Amazon (we have not tested these)

ENVEL 3.5mm Jack Cable Adapter Kit Mutual Convertors for PC headset and Smartphone Tablet Earphone with Headphone/Microphone Function Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio 2 Female to 1 Male (Cable) - Cost 5 USD



StarTech.com Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F - Cost 7 USD

BEBONCOOL(TM) 3.5mm 4-Pin to 2x 3-Pin 3.5mm Headset Splitter Adapter M/F - Cost 6 USD



The same Aker speakers are available on Amazon:

VoiceBooster Voice Amplifier 12watts Black MR1505 (Aker) by TK Products, Portable, for Teachers, Coaches, Tour Guides, Presentations, Costumes, Etc. - Cost 64 USD



Y-splitters available on Ali Express (we have not tested these)

[Splitter Headphones jack 3.5 mm Stereo Audio Y-Splitter 2 Female 1 Male Cable Adapter with separate headphone / microphone plug - Cost 1.55 USD] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-1pcs-lot-Gold-plated-Audio-Stereo-Plug-3-5mm-1-Male-to-2-Female/32339337262.html)

Splitter Headphones 3.5 mm plug Stereo Audio Y-Splitter 2 Female 1 Male Cable Adapter with separate headphone microphone jack - Cost 3 USD



The same Aker speakers are available on Ali Express:

Aker MR1505 Waistband Portable Loud Voice Booster Amplifier Speaker VoiceBooster Amplifier 12watts for MP3 - Cost about 30 USD

Aker MR1506 Voice Amplifier 10watts Black for Teachers, Coaches, Tour Guides, Presentations, Costumes etc - Cost about 30 USD

Thanks a lot! I have the software, full access to Adobe Creative Cloud, so I'll be using audition to edit. I've had a bit of experience on the software end so that I'm not nearly as worried about.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J5Y214/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=CY3NY8NFU4B3&coliid=I3VMBLU3FFDZA6

thats the mixer I was looking at before, but it doesn't have the multiple outputs, or if it has that capability then I would have no idea how to use it. What I've come up with is that I need an audio interface like one of these mixers, which if it doesn't have usb then I'd need a device that would take RCA audio into usb, but I can't find one of those that would take 4 separate inputs other than an internal card that no one seems to sell anymore.

I also saw this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=CY3NY8NFU4B3&coliid=I1FGVEGGKV9LTG

but it seemed like I would need 4 of these in order to get 4 mics on 4 tracks.

You can get something like a Focusrite 2i2 which has balanced line outputs, and also a very nice headphone amp built in so kills two birds with one stone. Will outperform the Soundblaster at any level.

FiiO D3 converter

Get this to go from your TV's Digital out to RCA analog. Then get a cable like this and plug it into something like this Dayton Bundle.

The end.

I would recommend Behringer Truth B1030a and Behringer UCA202. Add a subwoofer especially if you watch movies (like this one).

Everyone saying midi is meaning using software to create the sounds and just using the clavinova as an input device and not actually making any sound. Midi carries no audio it's only sending signals. If you wanted to take the audio created from your clavinova into your PC for recording you would need to find out what outputs it has. It most likely has either a stereo or mono TRS port or RCA connectors. From there you would just need an interface for the audio to go into your PC. If it's got TRS outputs you could plug in one into there and get an adapter that would plug into your standard audio jack on a computer (this is a cheap alternative to using a audio interface however it may not be the best sounding). If it's only got RCA you could pick up one of these I use it for my set up and it works great.

Is this what the back of your TV looks like?

https://i.rtings.com/images/reviews/tv/samsung/n5300/n5300-inputs-back-large.jpg

That shows that the ONLY audio output from that TV is OPTICAL. The RCA jacks are all INPUTS (as shown by the label)

So you need an optical (TOSLINK) to analog (RCA) adapter.

Something like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0

That model has both RCA Left and Right (White and Red), and it also has a 3.5mm "headphone" output jack.

You need something like this. I looked a little bit on your website but I don't speak Spanish. Hook it up to your monitor out and you're good to go.

I'm also looking for something similar this 4 channel mixer. But I was wondering if it'd be able to handle my headphones which are 250ohm and powering my speakers? If anyone else could help? Maybe calling /u/ZeosPantera would have some input?

The best mic in that price range is going to be the AT2020. I'm assuming you have an audio interface, stand etc, for it. You'll also need a pop filter.

Edit: if you don't have an interface there's a USB version of this mic that is $30 more expensive. It should be good but I've only used the XLR version of this mic.

Wait, wait. You say MOSTLY because youd like to use bluetooth isntead of CDs?

You can buy a bluetooth adapter and cable for $30. You plug this into the AUX connection on the back of your old Panasonic and its not bluetooth! I have a receiver from 1991 in my garage doing the same thing...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IQBSW28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40465-Value-Audio/dp/B0019MCI94/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1504625718&sr=8-8&keywords=rca+to+rca

The Behringer UCA-222. It's 30 bucks, acts as a headphone amp as well as a stereo RCA interface with optical out for easy connection to a stereo, mixer, etc. I use mine to plug my laptop into my living room home entertainment system. I never have to worry about a lousy 1/8" to RCA cable breaking or falling out of my computer's headphone jack.

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-U-Control-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=pd_cp_MI_0

This Behringer microamp ought to do it. It's not precisely a switch, but you can use it like one.

I should note that all of its ports are 1/4". You'll need adapters.

You don't need a "(pro?) audio interface" or pro studio monitors to listen to music.

All you need is PC 3.5mm to RCA cable to home audio powered speakers or an amp and passive speakers.

If you want to use USB out, get a DAC. FiiO D3 or others.

Home audio powered speakers: Edifier R1280T

Amp: Nobsound Mini Bluetooth Power Amplifier with AUX/USB/Bluetooth Input

Speakers: Pioneer SP-BS22-LR or Micca MB42

Guides: Intro to home stereo systems, Beginner's Guide to Home Audio, r/Audiophile Getting Started.

Someone suggested these to me haha http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00018Q4GA/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1DMSPPTEFXXCJRBH1MRM&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846 THEY ARE MASSIVE

Yes!
Logitech 980-000910 Bluetooth Audio Adapter for Bluetooth Streaming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5CJAzb2NQ8NHS

To answer my own question, in case anyone else googles this: What I was looking for was a simple mixer with zero latency and I found a Behringer Xenyx 302 USB

Just popped in my mic, headset, USB cable and was good to go.

Thanks, so if I bought this 5 input mixer from amazon it will let me plug in my ipod, raido and tv and let me change audio levels separately, sorry this is all new to me!

Ok so a bit confused here. You have CDJs and you want to record what is coming out of them correct? you can do this with just your mixer and an audio interface such as this. Or are you trying to use your CDJs with the software, meaning your music is stored on the computer and your trying to use the CDJs and mixer as your control surface?

Something like this?

I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to do. Perhaps you could tell us what problem you're trying to solve. You want to connect your phone and/or laptop to your STR-k680 so that you can play audio from those devices on your Sony? Or do you actually want your STR-k680 to do the audio decoding (that's the DAC part) from your phone/laptop? If the latter, you need some way to get a digital connection from phone/laptop to the Sony, and from looking at the manual, no such connection exists that you could easily leverage. As /u/PeetTreedish says, if your Sony had HDMI in, that would most likely work if your laptop has HDMI out. But your Sony doesn't have HDMI in, so no dice.

EDIT: Oh, and if the former, you just need to go from your phone and/or laptop's headphone jack into one of the analog audio inputs on your Sony. A cable like this will do the job. That will make audio come out of your speakers when you press "play" on your laptop/phone, but you won't be using it as a DAC.

I would suggest you get the [Audio Technica AT2020] (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0006H92QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yy6jDbTNXZB49) ~100€ on Amazon (get the XLR version)
And as an interface get the Behringer UM2 U-Phoria 2x2 USB 2.0 Audio Interface ~30€ on Amazon. So you can upgrade the interface or microphone later or even add a mixer when you want. For the rest of the money you can get a microphone stand.

Something a little more affordable.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HA400-4-Channel-Stereo-Headphone/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=pd_cp_MI_0

A more simple solution would be to run the output of the laptop into your desktop's line in and let your desktop mix them.

This is a cheap version of a mixer I own -- it's nice for your use since it accepts both sizes of headphone jacks. This is what I use -- more expensive, but powered to the point of not needing a headphone amp.

So, what you're saying is that if I get an Audio Interface (looking at this one currently https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1540419648&sr=1-4&keywords=audio+interface) I would eliminate most of the static created by my sound card?

Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1410806118&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=rca+-+1%2F8+femail

RCA - female 1/8 inch, assuming your computer speakers have the 1/8" connector.

If it has an XLR port you can use an interface like this one for your PC.

XLR mics usually require phantom power and a Pre AMP to work with your PC. you might need to look into something like this XLR preAMP w/ phantom power

"Fixing" something isn't throwing money at it and replacing it with something thats not needed.


but that link you posted is stupid rediculous!!! Leave the referral codes off please!

-

Here's what that link really only needs to look like -

• https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/UM2usb--behringer-u-phoria-um2 - $39.99
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-Audio-Interface-1-Channel-UM2/dp/B00EK1OTZC (3rd party sellers only for $33+)
  
  
• https://www.guitarcenter.com/Behringer/U-Phoria-UM2.gc - $29.99
  
  
  To OP - generally this isn't needed for your issue (you should try to fix the problem instead of circumventing it), but for $30 its not a big deal. You only need to use it as an external headphone amp - not a musicians interface. There are TONS of alternative USB headphone amps on the market.
  
  

Get an optical splitter and an optical to headphone converter. Run the optical out from the TV o the optical splitter. Run one optical out to the soundbar, run the other optical out to the headphone converter. You'll probably want to add a headphone amp as well.

Oh, one thing I'm a little confused about. So I won't be plugging my headphones directly into my external DAC anymore since the DAC is being connected to the stereo selector via RCA? Btw I do have a headphone adapter here. So I connect my headphones with this adapter into 1, my TV into 2, DAC into 3, and my lepai into the last slot, 5. Now, what if I wanted to listen to TV, through my bookshelf speakers, and use my headphones for my PC? Which switch would I have to turn on? I hope that made sense and sorry for all the noob questions

Thanks, the one I speak of is linked is the post, but here it is again: link


Would that one work?
Cuz I'm trying to get a TRS cable to plug into a TRRS input, so I'd plug the TRS mic into the mic side of that and then plug the TRRS end into my iphone

take a look at the sony mdr7506, they are ugly, but god damn are they good

or if you want a sound stage (surround sound) for games look at the NVX xpt100

First of all: visit r/zeos for general beginner guidelines

Second: Those are passive speaker, so they need to be powered through an amplifier. What you need is

• An audio souce (propably your PC)
  
  
• An amplifier (This seems to be the cheapest one you can get)
  
  
• An RCA cable to connect audio source and amplifier
  
  
• Speaker Wire to connect amp and speaker
  
  There is no real trick in connecting. Just make sure that the same colored ends are connected with the same wire and the different wire ends don't touch. Otherwise, if it sits tight, you have propably done it right

first thing that comes to mind is a focusrite 2i2, which is like $99. But do some research for a digital-audio-converter. Most will have an output for headphones and an input for a mic jack (and a 1/4 inch in and out for guitars or headphones or whatever)

edit:

focusrite 2i2 (was on sale for $99, might drop down to that price again soon)

focusrite solo

phantom power supply

You need a sub with a speaker level input. I think you already know this, but that system is so weak that you don't want to get "too much" sub. Unless you are interested in audio and want to upgrade to a better system later, this is as far as I would go. I feel that if you went with a bigger sub, you would forget the rest of the system is there.

If it were me, I would look for a new receiver before I would worry about a sub. You will always be limited to a subpar experience with what you have.

https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO

Considering your other gear, Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_V.6EwbRZA2XX1

Or the Sony MDR-7506 http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR7506-Professional-Diaphragm-Headphone/dp/B000AJIF4E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404329035&sr=8-1&keywords=MDR-7506

https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=pd_lpo_267_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EADZ5MXWE1CRKH2ZT65E

This is the smallest one I could find: http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-ROLLS-MX44s-Mini-Mix-IV/dp/B00102VV46/ref=pd_cp_MI_0

http://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX44S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B00102VV46

https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX44S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B00102VV46

Have one. 3 years old now. Use it in the car to mix GPS, media, and police scanner audio to my car speakers.

Search for 3.5mm audio mixer. This is an example of one. There are many options. One with microphone and audio will be harder to find / more expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_YyI1xbAQRMN8X

I just bought this guy.

You could also get rid the ground loop by using the optical out of the MacBook Pro into a DAC then to the speaker system.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398806239&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002JFN1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398806328&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

audio interface, such as focusrite scarlet 2i2. or you can get a preamp but that's less pro and more consumer
http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405468867&sr=8-1&keywords=focusrite+2i2

Those are what are called "passive" speakers; they need an amplifier.

You'll also need some speaker wire and a 3.5 mm TRS to stereo RCA cable.

Use the TRS-to-RCA cable to connect the computer's "audio out" to the amplifier's "line in", and use the speaker wire to connect the speakers to the amplifier.

so any old cd/dvd player will work? all i need to do is plug in the RCA cables into the amp?


The Amp

The Speakers

wire

I have an audio interface that connects via USB, and it has a 1/4" output specifically for routing back to a set of headphones. I plan on using that to connect to the mixer.

Interface in question.

Logitech Bluetooth Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_vJ8Awb9PVDEVC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IQBSW28/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465828560&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=logitech+bluetooth+audio+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41UR6fEoZTL&ref=plSrch

Your TV doesn’t appear to have any RCA outputs, but there might be a headphone jack somewhere else on the tv. If not, you could get an SPDIF converter for the optical out PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aPYvCbT1S2HBC

It would probably be better than your internal sound card, but if you're really worried about sound quality, you'll need to get a proper recording interface.

Oh yeah, didn't see that one. Well, it kinda sucks, but i think i could live with only 2 inputs. I wouldn't use the switch and the ps4 at the same time anway, so i just could switch between them.

Or i go with https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX44S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B00102VV46 which i would need to import :-/

Can you tell us the brand and model of the TV or show us a photo of the connectors on the back?

I'm skeptical that the TV has RCA audio out. These days they typically only have RCA in; audio out will typically be a toslink optical connection.

And therein may lie the answer. If your TV indeed has a toslink "audio out" connection and your "old CD player" has an RCA "aux in" connection, then you can use a TOSLINK to RCA converter to plug the TV through the CD player to the speakers.

I think this will work http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-ROLLS-MX44s-Mini-Mix-IV/dp/B00102VV46/

I bought it thinking I may use it. Haven't used it all and it's still sealed :/ wanna buy it from me?

not quite. something like this piggyback RCA connector would work, or this RCA splitter

you could use a 3.5mm splitter with two of the 3.5mm to RCA cables

I missed that when I read it.

Any idea how it would handle 3 pull 3.5mm jacks? Would it pass through all of it or just the stereo audio?

I would have to convert each input and output with one of these.

I have this one that I bought. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ilIIDb4M9338V
I've got it set up and I can get audio from switching through menus just nothing else. It's very odd.

Hell, even these Sony MDR7506 Professional Large Diaphragm Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AJIF4E?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf