Top products from r/audiorepair

I would take the driver assembly off of the frame (aka remove the thand use an epoxy specially formulated to bond plastic to glue the pieces together. I recommend JB PlasticWeld. You probably want to practice on something else before you try it on your cans, since it dries super quick and you only have one shot at this.

One that has fully cured (it says 1hr but definitely give it a full 24hours), I would wrap the cracked part of the frame tightly in a self-sealing tape. This is a rubber tape which resembles electrical tape but it has no 'adhesives'. What you do is stretch it out as you wrap it and then tightly overlay half of the width over your last pass each time. It will fuse to itself and should support it pretty well. Make sure you have enough clearance to put the layer of tape on and still reattach the driver assembly back on, because once it's one there it's not going to come off without a huge fight (which is the whole point). Again, practice beforehand on something else. I personally use the 3M brand all the time with good results, and it's super cheap. Link.

Good luck.

deoxit. all the knobs, sliders, switches, etc.

clean out the inside of the machine. use a paintbrush / toothbrush to get the dust that has settled close to the boards. be gentle, take your time.

while you're digging into those two things, hopefully you'll get a better look at the caps, or if anything is notably burnt. that hiss could be a few different things, but luckily there isn't too much complexity inside there.

that's a great unit, i wish you the best of luck.

Does it sound anything like this?

If not, can you record it?

I suspect it's not the Sansui. The headphone out is just resistively tapped off of the speaker out. This means that you should hear the exact same thing through the speakers and the headphone jack.

Connecting the Sansui to your computer has the potential to create or reveal all sorts of interference. The above sample is from a cellphone communicating with a tower, but the computer itself is full of all sorts of noise. It could be that everything the computer attempts to record will have this problem.

Make sure you're using the 'line in' and not the 'mic' connection on the computer. Microphone inputs have a large amount of gain and this will only cause problems if the source is capable of driving line level inputs (the Sansui definitely is).

Try recording from another source, preferably something battery powered that has no wireless capability. If it's not plugged in to anything else then it cannot easily conduct interference. It can still act as an antenna for radiated interference though.

Try using an isolator to see if that helps. This will use a transformer on each channel to break the conductive path between the devices and only pass audio frequencies through. Useful for ground loops but not for radiated interference pickup (like the cellphone example).

Hope that helps.

Nice radio! I like that it has a power transformer.

You should pick up a book on radio restoration. You will need to replace all of the old capacitors and resistors. Then you'll need a signal generator to align it. All that will be covered in the book.

Once you restore it, give some thought to putting up an external antenna on your roof. External antennas really help a lot - you will be surprised by how good an old AM radio can sound.

but then it is much better for the environment and you don't have to inhale lead fumes. Personally I'd recommend replacing the plug, as long as you have a fairly steady hand those 3.5mm jacks aren't too hard to solder. It's probably easier to replace it by cutting off another jack and splicing the cables, though you might have a bit of a tough time identifying which one is which. You'll get a neater job by using something like this though.

22 hour old post, you'll be best off just posting again so people see it.

Make sure to remove the referral code from your amazon link. A sanitized link will look like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042F3K9W

Here is a layout of the area with my proposed plan. My basement has very nice 10' ceilings and I'm excited about the possibilities. I added a nice big remnant of carpet and hung a large projector screen in one end of the basement. I have been framing walls and running wires, now I just need to pull the trigger on a receiver, speakers and projector. I have an old projector but the pixels are dying and it's pretty crap-quality.

• $179.99 - Monoprice Speakers 5.1 surround #10565 (new)
  
  
• OWNED - Cerwin Vega RE-30 Speakers 250W max power
  
  
• $200.00 - Yamaha RX-V2400 7.1 Receiver 120W x 7 (pre-owned)
  
  
• $750.00 - Epson 2040 Projector 1080p 3D (with ceiling mount) (new)
  
  Total Cost: $1,129.99 + tax/ship

Is the heavier gauge cable broken, split, or frayed anywhere along its length? Or just the ends? If it's just the ends, just clip the ends off and strip a fresh 1/2 inch.

You might be able to do this successfully with some good scissors, but a wire stripper would be much easier.

If you don't want to keep the other wire, 16 gauge is plenty thick for most situations, especially the short runs as pictured.

Plug it into something with a switch. Turn on that something when the barrel plug is in the speaker. A small 2-4 outlet power strip you only use for this should suffice. There's also things like this as long as you keep the loads light.

If it's on when you plug it in, try turning the speaker itself off all the way before plugging it in.

High draw circuits will cause this arcing with some styles of power supply circuits, and ultimately the best way to just avoid them altogether is to have the brick on a switched source. The one I linked even lets you put it someplace you can toggle it with your foot.

You can probably start with the Gold as long as there isn't much visible oxidation (no big rusty or green blobs on contacts). Just don't use it to spray out potentiometers, it's too strong and can seriously affect the pot. Their Faderlube series are for that stuff.

They actually make a little kit with a bit of each product, swabs, etc. I'd highly recommend it because you're going to have the right product for different jobs instead of one can of D5 which will probably last the rest of your life if you're not fixing electronics for a living.

https://smile.amazon.com/CAIG-SK-AV35-Audio-Survival-Kit/dp/B00C0NTMPE

That's not crazy high, but I was able to buy a kit with 3 types of Deoxit and other cleaning supplies for around $20 from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-SK-AV35-Audio-Survival-Kit/dp/B00C0NTMPE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

This sounds to me like a classic case of sensitivity mismatch. Your audio source is putting out a signal (usually around 1V for modern devices) much higher than was expected on the input of a lot of vintage gear (around 150 mV for all but phono) for maximum power output.

With too hot of an input, it takes a shorter travel of the volume control to reach maximum voltage or even start clipping. You might try a passive attenuator in line with the input to knock the signal level down a bit.

while I fortunately have no experience with it on speakers, there's a product called Natures Miracles that has worked miracles on area rugs and bedding. You can get it at most pet stores.
https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-Eliminator-P-5727/dp/B003I5VTRW

Either the selector itself is dirty/broken (in which case, the Deoxit treatment should do the trick) or there is a problem with one channel of the phono stage's circuitry.

Try the contact cleaner first. If you can get ahold of an oscilloscope--or hell, a piezo earpiece and a quiet room--you can measure the output of the phono stage to track down where the signal from the bad channel is getting lost. I have a feeling it's either a dried-out capacitor or a failed transistor.