(Part 3) Top products from r/bettafish

Hello! Welcome to the wonderful world of betta keeping! I'm a bit late to the game, since this was posted a bit ago, and you've already recieved advice, but I'd like to offer up some as well.

As everyone has already said, it's a pretty big misconception for nearly all new betta keepers that bettas can be kept in small spaces without a filter or heater. This stems from the belief that bettas live in mud puddles, when it couldn't be further from the truth.

Bettas come from vast rice paddies, that will usually never dip below knee height and stretches for miles on end. In the dry season, the paddies do tend have lower water levels, but certainly not puddles. It's a densely planted ecosystem with moving water, and natural filters, ie. The plants and bacteria.

Since you're new to fish keeping (I assume, but apologies if I am wrong) you may not be aware of something called the "Nitrogen Cycle." While it may be confusing at first, essentially the beneficial bacteria that breaks down your fishes waste into ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. This process is crucial for your fishes health and well being, and is very important in the fish keeping world, but I'll get into the specifics a bit more later in this comment.

While the "recommended" amount of space for a betta is commonly agreed to be 2.5 gallons, which is perfectly fine as a bare minimum, I would honestly not recommend such a small space for a beginner. This is because of the nitrogen cycle. I would go with a 5 gallon tank, or even a 10 gallon, which will be much easier to cycle and keep your fish much safer during the process.

As for the nitrogen cycle itself, the process happens on it's own, but you have to be the one to keep your fish safe during it. Basically, ammonia and nitrites are deadly to your fish, and for the first few weeks, these will be all too common. What your aiming for is the much safer, but still harmful in large quantities, and manageable nitrites at the end of the cycle.

The nitrogen cycle starts with the addition of ammonia into a new tank. This can be done in 2 ways, fish in or fish out. What you'll be doing is a fish in cycle. Beneficial bacteria will begin to grow in your tank to break down waste and convert them into the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The bacteria grow on surfaces, such as decor, gravel, filter, heater, glass, and is NOT present in the water itself. This means that for the next few weeks, you gotta stay on top of your water change game.

50% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 30% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 40% water changes about every 3-4 days for a week. 30% water changes about once or twice a week at the end of the cycle. I know it seems like a lot, but your fish will appreciate it.

For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle, you can search it on google, and a helpful video to watch on it is KGTropicals youtube video "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle." They break it down so well and have more visual representations, so I definitely recommend it.

Some things to consider getting for your fish as well, and things that will help your cycle a TON. I'll be adding links for visual representation, as well as trying to find you the best prices I can.

1. A good sized tank. I recommend a 5 or 10 gallon, much easier to start and keep a cycle in a bigger tank, but yes, 2.5 gallons is perfectly fine if you need it space wise. Be aware that even more water changes will be required to keep and maintain your tanks balance though.
   
   No links for this one since shipping a tank is a PAIN, but 5 and 10 gallon tanks can be bought from places like walmart, or local stores, or petsmart and Petco. I'm not sure if petco is still having their dollar per gallon sale, but a 10 gallon tank would only be $10.
   
   
2. A good water conditioner. I recommend something like Seachem Prime or Neutral Regulator. These will remove any heavy metals, chlorine, and chlorimine from your water, AND detoxify ammonia, and nitrites for 48 hours. This is SO GOOD for keeping your fish happy and healthy during the cycling process.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=seachem+prime&qid=1572116532&sr=8-8
   
   
3. A good filter. Personally, sponge filters are the way to go. Easy, cheap, reliable. Most local fish stores will have the sponge filter itself, but they can also be ordered on Amazon. The other things needed would be airline tubing, and an airpump. The tubing and air pump can be bought even at big retailers like walmart or meijer and replaced easily sin e they're so readily available.
   
   To clean a sponge filter is the easiest thing. While your changing tank water, out some in a clean bucket, take your sponge filter out, put in bucket of removed tank water, squeeze sponge filter, put back in tank. It also holds an awesome amount of the good beneficial bacteria and will not lose it when you clean it, unlike changing cartridges for a hang on back filter. They also aerate the water, bringing more oxygen into it, and don't create a high flow that will tire your betta.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Lefunpets-Biochemical-Sponge-Breeding-Aquarium/dp/B07VM8DN5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1572116736&sr=8-7
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Pump-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bair%2Bpump&qid=1572116792&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airline+tubing&qid=1572116832&sr=8-3
   
   Hang on back filters can be used too though, I just don't find them as reliable.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=fish+tank+filter&qid=1572117085&sr=8-16
   
   Be sure to use a hang on back appropriate for your tank size. Bettas can tire easily of water flow is too high, and in some cases you may still need to baffle the filter.
   
   https://youtu.be/Hse7F3pvHqI
   
   
4. A good heater. Ideally, you want one you can adjust. Choose a heater for your tank size as well. Too small, won't keep water warm, too bug, could possibly cook your fish. That's never a good thing.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/HITOP-Aquarium-Reptiles-Thermometer-50W-Grey/dp/B07MJJJ4QQ/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDIw-ac_d_pm&keywords=fish+tank+heater&pd_rd_i=B07MJJJ4QQ&pd_rd_r=429ee2a8-3699-45aa-8e2b-e30164b14a2a&pd_rd_w=uFCrj&pd_rd_wg=125c4&pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&pf_rd_r=T4YHMVDAP5EAQSAGXKJV&psc=1&qid=1572117367
   
   
5. A good food. The recommended I've seen so far is Northfin betta bits, or Fluval bug bites. You can also go the frozen food route, but it's a bit more expensive and involved.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=northfin+betta+bits&qid=1572117834&sprefix=northfin+&sr=8-2
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&qid=1572117868&sprefix=fluval+bug&sr=8-4
   
   I use a mix of Aqueon, Northfin, and Fluval for some variety in my bettas diets along with frozen blood worms. They love them. I've heard Hikari betta food is good too.
   
   I don't recommend the generic foods sold at walmart. The pellets are too big, and the formula is low quality. It'll keep your betta alive, but just isn't great for them. Also, flake foods are a no no. It's just too messy, the fish doesn't eat all of it, and just isn't worth it.
   
   Lastly, you want to decide what kind of decor you will go with. If you go artificial, be sure to use soft, silk plants so your bettas fins do not get hurt.
   
   I recommend live plants always though, cause they help a lot in keeping your tank clean, produce oxygen, and will help absorb some of nitrates in the water. All around good stuff. Easy plants to take care of are anubias, java ferns, java moss, water wisteria, and floating plants like water lettuce.
   
   Bettas also need hiding places. This can be anything really. From the decor sold at walmart, natural looking rock caves, or even a terracotta pot. It doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't have sharp points.
   
   The decor is up to you and what you like.
   
   Ummmmm, I can't think of anything else really. But if you need any help with anything, feel free to reach out! A lot of us are passionate about our quirky little dudes and gals and will be more than happy to help with anything you need advice on. And use the internet to your advantage too! There's TONS of good information and videos out there now, and you can find what you're looking for at the touch of a screen now.
   
   And also also, please do not feel bad about your start at betta keeping. We all start somewhere, and more than likely, we have all made this very same mistake. I know I did. The best thing to do now is to just work on upgrading your little dude and providing the best care you can for him. He'll start to heal up and REALLY shine.
   
   Apologies for extremely long message, but I hope this helps and wish you and your betta the best of luck!! ☺️

3g is still on the small side... We recommend 5g minimum for a betta to truly thrive... 3g is... well...it's doable, but still NOT IDEAL...

I HIGHLY recommend this kit!!! IT'S SUPER on sale right now for just $20 (at time of my comment): https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-5262256.html

Just take a look at my happy bois in their own 5.5g tanks (SO MUCH MORE LIVELY, and to think I had them in 3.5g starter tanks before :( I wish I switched sooner): https://i.imgur.com/x7VLj4l.mp4 AND https://i.imgur.com/ty9t3RJ.mp4

The included TopFin HoB filter can easily and cheaply be modified (although I chose not to use them as I prefer using sponge filters): https://i.imgur.com/QYNiVEV.mp4

With the following supplies:

• https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-A1370A1-Aquaclear-20-Gallon/dp/B0006JLO5K/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Flo-Aquarium-Filter-Media-Thick/dp/B01J5MV86S/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/3IN1-BIO-SPONGE-Biochemical-Sponge-QUACLEAR/dp/B00VPL0V0W
  
  ​
  
  You will have to do Fish-In-Cycle (please read):
  
  https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle
  
  Must-Have items for your Fish-In-Cycling process + Additional Info:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116012300-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW <-- Beneficial Bacteria blend, add 2x-3x the recommended amount of this directly into the filter, filter media, & tank water, especially after a water change. Add the bene-bacteria on a DAILY basis, for up to a week or longer if you like. Don't worry about "overdosing" on Bene-bacteria, the more the better when trying to kickstart a nitrogen cycle.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ <--Best water conditioner, also temporarily binds ammonia into less harmful form.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ <--- ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check daily or every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates.
  
  ​
  
  Other stuff:
  
  ​
  
  Also... try getting NorthFin Betta Bits, they're one of the best pellets with high quality ingredients, little or no fillers, and absolutely no nasty toxic preservatives. My bettas love them so much that they inhale them like it's drugs for a drug addict or something LOL (or exactly like Kirby)! https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Food-Betta-Pellet-Package/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4/
  
  Beware of overfeeding, which is equally bad for bettas as underfeeding (they are gluttons and would eat till they burst if given the chance) https://i.imgur.com/4RR2LZ9.jpg. (save this pic for reference, feed betta as much as makes his belly match between 1st and 2nd photo, then let him digest back down to a normal belly before feed again.)
  
  Filter - any as long as it have adjustable flow (or else you can make a baffle if the flow is too strong, google about that), or many here recommend a basic Sponge-Filter to have a gentle water output that won't be stressful and push the betta all around the tank (the ones with big fins have a hard time with strong currents in their tank)
  
  ​
  
  Heater - Any heater, following the 5-watt-per-gallon power rating rule, with a manual knob for setting temperature (so for example 5g you want at least 25watt heater), don't go for preset heaters (they're not very accurate). Bettas like 78-80F (25-27C).
  
  ​
  
  Plants - Bettas like to have a lot (like a jungle) of plants to hide in, swim through, explore, play, and rest on. Some beginner live plants that don't require special setups are Marimo Moss balls + Java moss, other live plants may have special requirements in order to thrive. Silk plants (cloth leaves) are fine too if you don't have a green thumb. I do a mixed hybrid tank; silk plants + lots of marimo moss balls + java moss. Make sure if using silk/fake plants that there's no sharp pokey bits, remove and sand them down if there are. You can get good deals on live plant packages on r/aquaswap
  
  ​
  
  Decor - Bettas appreciate cave-like decor that they can hide in. Make sure there's nothing sharp on the inside of the cave, nor sharp edges or sharp parts outside. Avoid also any smallish openings that a betta can get their head stuck in if they get curious. Another nice decor is the ZooMed Floating Betta Log (for 5g or larger tanks), bettas like hanging out in there.
  
  Cleaning/Tank Maintenance Supplies -
  
  Seachem Stability, Seachem Prime, API Freshwater Master Test Kit, big bucket (can have 2, one for clean water, and one for the old dirty tank water), and an appropriate gravel vacuum (they come in different sizes so make sure you get one that is the right size for your tank). Algae scraper thing too (the lil magnetic ones are nice) if you don't like algae on the front of the tank...Brand new clear-plastic Turkey Baster (which you will only use for aquarium use) will be good for spot-cleaning (immediate removal of food/poo wastes if you see any sitting around)
  
  More info on Betta care & needs: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index
  
  Edit: @ u/EndofMayMayitEnd This info/guide is for you too! Hope it helps :) get your betta at least a 5g tank if you can, there's one 5.5g tank kit on sale at Petsmart right now for $20 :) (see above for further details)

150 is totally realistic. Planted tanks are the best. I'm not sure what advice you've already received but 10 gallons is "big enough". It is just that the larger the body of water the easier it is to keep stable. 10 gallons is an awesome starting point. I'll take a shot at a $150 total setup, that is plenty for a planted tank:

• API master test kit. Most important of all important importants :). No really though, get one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497496243&sr=sr-1&keywords=API+master+test+kit - $30
  
  
• 10 gallon tank from petsmart or petco - $14.99
  
  
• Aquaclear 30 hang-on-back filter - $32.00. This will eliminate the need for a air pump and sponge filter.
  These things are awesome.
  They are reliable, have adjustable flow, and make it so you can stack the media you want in your filter without having to go crazy expensive witha
  canister filter.
  They also come with really decent media. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497495329&sr=sr-1&keywords=aquaclear+30
  
  
• This light will grow low maintenance plants easily and is highly reviewed - $17.99: https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-Aquarium-Light-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1497495518&sr=1-4&keywords=aquarium+led+light
  
  
• Cheap and awesome heater AND thermometer combo - $14.00 - https://www.amazon.com/Aquatop-Aquarium-Submersible-100-Watt-Thermometer/dp/B06X3RYRMD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497495598&sr=8-1&keywords=aquatop+100w
  
  
• Food of your choice ~ $4-8. I highly recommend Hikari Micro pellets. They are one food that my most stubborn will eat and they are small enough that no matter what age fish you get they will be able to eat them.
  
  
• Seachem Prime $13 - Hands down best water conditioner out there. MUCH CHEAPER online. Do not buy it in stores if you can avoid it. It will last forever too: https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1497495705&sr=1-1&keywords=Seachem+Prime
  
  
• Hiding places and plants - $??? - The rest of your budget I guess. I like to build caves out of slate tiles and silicone from home improvement stores ($1.98/sq foot). Bettas like to explore and like places to get out of the light when they feel like it. Building slate caves is a really cost effective way to do that. Another idea is the super cheap clay pots. If you get clay pots just make sure you plug the hole at the bottom of the pot (the edges are very sharp and will cut your betta's fins).
  
  
  • As for live plants I have had the best success with shopping on amazon or /r/aquaswap. Some great vendors (and I mean great, the plants come in amazing condition days later in the mail) are substratesource and Aquarium Plants Factory
    
    
    So that is ~$120.00 without the plants and hiding places. That leaves you $30.00 for plants which is a great amount of money to get a very nice planted setup going. My 1 best piece of advice is to heavily plant the tank from the very beginning. The more plants you put in there, the more competition there is for algae and the better everything in your ecosystem will thrive.
    
    Edit: forgot to include cleaning basic tools such as a siphon: https://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Aquarium-Gravel-Squeeze/dp/B00BDPFYEI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497496172&sr=8-2&keywords=python+siphon and a bucket :) make sure you get those.
    
    =D

The most expensive part is gonna be the tank itself. Everything else you can find for pretty cheap on amazon.

I’d recommend a 5 gallon tank, this sponge filter, this heater, and you can find super cheap air pumps and tubing on amazon as well. I have also seen them for pretty cheap at petco/petsmart.

Sponge filters are super cheap to begin with and super easy to maintain and are best with bettas because of their low flow. I think they look nicer too and you don’t need to have a clunky, ugly lid since it doesn’t need to hang from the top.

Here is how my tank has evolved, and IMO has gotten much more aesthetically pleasing!

If you can I’d recommend pushing your friend towards live plants! They look nicer, are better for your fish, and help complete the ecosystem in your tank. There are some awesome plant options for low tech set ups (like so low tech you just put them in and add a bit of seachem flourish when they look like they need a boost). I currently have anubias, tropica fern, and amazon sword. Also moss balls look really cool!

You don’t even need to spend money on aquarium decor; clean mugs or jars work well as places to hide and I think it’s a unique look in the tank. I use little terra cotta pots so if you have those on hand those work great too (just plug the hole at the bottom).

Aqua swap is a good place to keep an eye out for a 2nd hand tank on the cheap, as well as plants, driftwood, basically anything else you’ll need!

Good luck finding this buddy a new home!! Post pics when he’s settled in!

I'm sorry you're getting a terrible reaction here. It seems like you had good intentions and tried to deal with the situation you were handed the best you could.

That said, there are steps you can take to improve the life of your next fish, and seeking answers in a betta forum is a good thing to do. It shows that you want to do the right thing and want to learn.

Yes, a bowl as big as you can handle is a good thing. If you can get at least a 2.5 gallon, that would help a lot. It doesn't sound like the friend who gave you the fish was very responsible at all, especially if they made fun of you for (doing the right thing) and getting a bigger bowl than they had.

For conditioning water, try Seachem Prime. It's the water conditioner I've used and been happy with for almost two years for my 10 gallon. It likely addresses more issues than just the betta conditioner, including a slime coat, ammonia, chlorine/chloramine, and nitrates/nitrites. It's also great because I only have to use 5-6 drops per gallon, so it ends up really cheap in the long run.

Did your betta have a heater? Bettas need heaters because they are tropical fish. Most tiny bowls and flower vases don't have a heater, and that's part of why they're so bad. Think of how lizards and snakes like to bask under heat lamps and on warm, sunny rocks. If your betta was slowing down and not moving, that's a sign of being too cold.

A filter should keep the water clear, and I suggest not doing 100% water changes. Little, frequent changes are much easier for a betta to handle, especially if the tank is not cycled (by cycled, I mean a tank that has established colonies of bacteria to break down waste). Small tanks usually can't maintain a cycle, so those small, frequent water changes are important.

How did you clean the decorations? I don't recommend cleaning those because there and in the gravel are where your good bacteria live that help break down waste. A small tank might not be able to maintain a full cycle, but you don't want to keep rinsing away whatever bacteria you do get.

Water testing kits like this and this would be a good way to monitor your tank. They help you know when your water is good for your betta, and having test results help with diagnosing a problem, especially if you ask in a sub like this one.

Do you have any live plants in your tank? A moss ball is really, really easy to care for and works well in a betta tank. It just sits there on the gravel, improving water quality, making your fish happy, and looking neat.

Good luck with your next betta! Learning over time what works and doesn't work is a part of being a betta keeper.

Your fish will be okay with non ideal conditions for awhile, bettas are hearty fish! (Shame on your friend for the gift but good for you for trying to give this guy the best possible life!!)

For plants make sure you get silk plants, I’d recommend https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ASDIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n2SQCbA3CNS37 from Amazon.

They are super soft and I haven’t found a better plant for $3 :)
A great live plant is a “Moss Ball” they are sold at most pet stores and are great for Bettas!


Best of luck to you!!

So, since he's having such a problem getting to the surface of the water, the VERY first thing I would do is go and get a breeder net like this: Uxcell Fish Tank Aquarium Net Breeder, White Green https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00H4XTQQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oodXCb71NDJCS
(Hopefully ur local fish store or Walmart will have them, but they're smaller than this Amazon one.) Putting him in this net keeps him right near the surface so he doesn't have to struggle to get his much needed surface air and The bigger the net, the better...that way you'll have a little room to stick a plant or 2 like these in it: Blue Spotted Betta Plant, Amazon Sword Great For Betta Fish and Use Betta Leaf Pad & Betta Log https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00N3ISXBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7qdXCb9ZDM0KQ
Betta Plant Red Anubias Leaf By Blue Spotted, Great For Betta Fish https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00M0NC1UM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JrdXCb86XDAZJ
Smarlin Aquarium Plants Decoration, Artificial Plants for Fish Tank, 2 Pack (6 inches Height) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PH2L3QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dsdXCbEV8JH9H
Giving him a nice, small silk leafy plant to rest on or hide under will help keep his stress level down and help him heal faster.
Also, get some frozen Daphnia from your LFS (Petco, PetSmart, etc.) Daphnia sould work as a gentle laxative for him... apparently peas are NOT the answer for constipated Bettas. If you can't find that, then get some freeze dried Daphnia such as this: Hikari Bio-Pure Freeze Dried Daphnia for Pets, 0.42-Ounce https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003WRG54I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XDdXCbFWCWWVH
If you HAVE to use the freeze dried, try to soak it for awhile in some tank water, it's SUPER light and never stops floating. I pinch the shit out of it between my fingers under water and try to kind of saturate it that way

Next, you can either:

1. Completely fast him for 3 days, and see if he poops in his little temporary confinement, and if he does, let him out and see if he is back to normal. If he still can't swim right, put him back in the net and feed him a little bit of the Daphnia and wait. Keep ur eyes peeled for a (hopefully) healthy poo. Or:
   
   
2. You can give him an Epsom salt bath. I find conflicting ratios all over the place and maybe somebody else can chime in here and help us out but common mixture seems to be 1 Tablespoon per gallon of water. Here is a very good detailed step by step on how to properly do a salt bath:
   http://bettasplendid.weebly.com/salt-baths.html
   
   Let's start here and see what happens. But, hurry up and get him that breeder net!😉

3 gallons is considered an absolute minimum for fish, while 5 gallons is a recommended minimum. And with good reason - going from, say, 3 gallons to 10 gallons means you need more than three times as much stuff (heat, acid/base, waste, etc.) to change aspects of water quality (temperature, pH, ammonia/nitrite, etc.) the same amount. But you should be fine, as long as you're willing to put in effort and learn.

I recommend you take a look at a Fluval Spec III and, if you're comfortable, Spec-Tanks' mod section. It's a pretty small footprint at 8"x12", so it should fit most places. A three-gallon tank of any kind will be safe on any halfway decent table, as it should weigh ~30 pounds tops (25 pounds of water + ~5 pounds of glass and substrate sounds right). I'm running and quite liking my Spec V - the same thing, but twice as wide in the part of the tank things live - but there are a few things you should probably try. I recommend the flow tube modification for sure and adding a heater in that column. Bettas are tropical, after all.

Just be sure the tank is cycled and that you keep up maintenance. I have, uh, far more bioload than I probably should ^(Keep this our secret, alright? And don't follow my example...) and nothing has died yet. 40-50% weekly water changes complete with gravel vacuuming. For a single betta, you could probably get away with less, to be honest. However, it's easy enough, especially when all your equipment is set up, that there's no point slacking. No need to take him out of the tank. He'll learn quickly that the siphon is not food, a mate, or another male and will ignore it. Even if he gets caught in the suction, he should be able to swim free unless his fins are so large that he can't move normally anyway. And, ya know, you should be paying attention. :P Just siphon it into a bucket. I have one of those orange buckets from Home Depot and it works just fine. Looks for plastics with the #2 recycling label, as those are very definitely safe for fish.

Plants can help a bit, but they aren't a substitute for keeping clean. The ammonia wastes immediately produced by the betta and any other animals (pro-tip: invertebrates are neat) becomes nitrite (toxic) and then nitrate (toxic in high concentrations). Plants use nitrate as fertilizer, and they will absorb some other minerals, but they will NOT keep your tank clean. More of a buffer, I suppose, but even then only if there's more plant matter than water. If you want something that you literally cannot kill, I highly recommend Java moss. Even with my black thumb, my original clump has grown by a factor of five or so, and this is after "pruning" parts with algae. You can't kill it unless you try, and even then you might not succeed. As an aside, if you do have huge amounts of green stuff, you might want to avoid charcoal or carbon in your filter. Apparently it removes chemicals that plants can use, but get a second opinion on this before doing it.

As someone that's gone thru the same scenario as you I'm going to give you some possible options you can take that will make things way easier on you. The initial investment may be on the higher side but it's the equivalent of a couple dinners and a movie for some high quality stuff that'll last a long time.

• You need 4 things for a happy Betta: A proper tank, a filter, a heater, and proper decorations.
  
  
• First, return that 1 gallon aquarium if possible. While Betta's don't need large tanks I'd recommend something at least 2.5+ gallons. The tank will stay cleaner longer and your fish will be more active.
  
  
• There are different quality aquariums. Look for something that's an all-in-one design (comes with filter and light) Personally I love Fluval, a company that sells all in one contained tanks that are high quality, run silent, and are well designed. For dorm life I'd recommend The Spec 3: https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-2-6-Gallon-Black/dp/B009K0ZKAQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506546740&sr=8-5&keywords=fluval+spec
  If that's too much money this is also a good budget tank: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29095-Cube-Aquarium-3-Gallon/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506546844&sr=1-5&keywords=aquarium+kit
  
  
• Buy a heater, any basic heater that can sustain a set temp is fine: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506547013&sr=1-2&keywords=tetra+heater
  
  
• Decorations: Bettas have long fins that tear easily on sharp plastic plants. Buy soft or rounded decorations and substrate.
  
  
• It's also highly suggested to buy any type of water conditioner to remove chlorine from tap water etc.: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-16172-AquaSafe-8-45-oz/dp/B00068JW0A/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506547213&sr=1-5&keywords=tetra+easy+balance
  
  
• Betta food is subjective, though I like Hikari's brand that comes in those clear packages with the maze looking thing to dispense food.
  
  

If you have a Petco within an hour away I would suggest to go there, they are doing their $1 a gallon sale starting at 10 gallons. You should expect to spend starting at around $10 for a betta, $10 for a tank, you'll want a heater too...so roughly another $10 or more (go with an adjustable one if possible). So far we are at $30. Depending on the substrate you buy, you shouldn't cheap out too much on it if you are wanting plants. I love SeaChem Flourite Black Sand for planting into, holds plants amazingly. I needed two bags for my new 10G and got them from my LFS for $15 a bag (which I overpaid but still want to give them my business). We are roughly at $60. I would not suggest to buy the plants at the store since they are super over priced though you can still do it, at the store it will be roughly three times the price. You could either hold off on the plants and see how the pack turns out that I have eyeballed on Amazon for a while with great reviews...I am just skeptical of buying life stuff online to ship. The pack I am looking into is this;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M31YGLW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=AARJI3GJZHTT2&psc=1

This is the best pack I have seen so far with the best reviews and plants included. I plan on buying it next Thursday to fill my two tanks I have now. The value of those plants are definitely more than $35 though I can't say for certain right now.

Ah, I almost forgot about pumps. Seems like sponge filters are amazing for betta fish, the one I want to get soon is;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00511P8CS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A39G1UAOFK1OOE&psc=1

So you are looking at over $100 for your new tank.


Edit: Just saw that you already have a tank...what size is it?

This betta seems to have some pretty nasty finrot, this is often caused by poor water quality. It seems like he's in a fairly small tank, unfortunately, this is probably not a good environment for him. Bettas are tropical fish that need large enough (preferably 5 gallons or larger) heated and filtered tanks.

So the best way to help him is to get him into a better tank asap. The larger tank can be an aquarium or a plastic bin. The heater should be adjustable, with an internal thermostat. 25W should be fine, unless this betta lives in a particularly cold place.

A sponge filter is a good option for smaller tanks, here's a good sponge filter, it'll need to be powered by a air pump (like this one). Your friend will also need some airline tubing, and something to regulate airflow (this is a 10-pack, but you get the idea).

The water should be treated with water conditioner, like this one. Most people do 25-30% waterchanges, every week.

Cycling is another very important thing. Fish produce ammonia, which is very toxic to them. Luckily, there are bacteria that can convert ammonia into nitrite, and eventually into nitrate (far less toxic). These bacteria can live in the filter, and remove the bad ammonia from the water. A new filter doesn't have enough yet, by cycling we can make sure the filter media is colonized by the bacteria we want. This guide explains the process in more detail, this page here explains how to cycle a tank with fish.

Please also sent your friend a link to our caresheet, it might help them cure this little dude.

I konw this is a ton of information, but please ask your friend to give it a shot. This little dude can definitely recover :)

You’re gonna want to get a filter ASAP because his troubles are highly likely due to water quality - impossible to know without parameters. Yeah petsmart will totally test your water for you ! It’s a great deal since I know test kits are pricey !! :)

I’d recommend a sponge filter like this one .

I’d recommend feeding him some daphnia if he still seems to have an appetite and that should hopefully help him poo. The bloat might be a combination with his weak immune system from the rot and velvet, so hopefully getting him warmer and cleaner water will help.

He still looks to have some good weight on him and I’ve seen way sicker fish come back from way worse, so your guy should bounce back.

If you don’t use seachem Prime already I highly highly recommend getting some ! It’ll help neutralize the ammonia left after a water change.

I hope he gets better soon !!! Don’t hesitate if you have any more questions everyone on her is a wonderful help :)

It would be pretty strong but AquaClears are adjustable so the flow can be reduced somewhat. I've modded one before for a salt tank (actually it was an AquaClear 70 on a 5.5 lol but I swapped the impeller with a 20 and shaved off the notch that keeps the intake tube from being moved all the way to the right to slow flow down; this kept flow manageable so it didn't blow everything away). AquaClears are a bit pricier than other filters but I really like them because it's easy to mod them and you can change the filter media according to what you need in there. InTank makes really nice media baskets that go in them to replace the stock basket.

A better choice might be the Azoo Mignon 150, I get it from Amazon (there is a smaller size but in my opinion it's really a bit too small to go much good; this at least has a little room for filter media). It's pretty perfect for a freshwater 5 gallon.

Along with what the other person said, salt can be okay in small, controlled doses, OUTSIDE of their regular tank. So basically you have a second tank (can be 0.5 gallons) with the correct amount of salt completely desolved in it and you let him hang out in it for a few minutes everyday (don't quote me on this as I have never and will never try salt treatment on my boys so I don't know the exact recommendations). What I DO know, however, is that using aquarium salt in their home tank is usually not a good idea! I can (and usually will) disrupt the biofilter's stability and may lead to an ammonia spike. It's better to use something like Seachem's StressGuard which can be bought off Amazon for relatively cheap ($12 for 500ml). You can read more about in the first link I provided but basically it's almost like a liquid bandaid/neosporin but for fish. It's safe for pretty much all aquatic animals, it's safe to use with fresh and salt water tanks, it won't affect pH, and, best of all, it can safely be dosed directly into their home tank once a day.

​

This is what I used when my little Mushu's tank had an ammonia spike that I just could not get under control and basically had to start his biofilter cycle from scratch :/ he's doing much better now though!

Anything labled for bettas is probably junk, or at very least heavily diluted. I use Seachem Prime, and it's usually cheaper than the aqueon brand while being less diluted. A small bottle would last you a very long time.

As for the filter, definitely get a new one. While a mossball helps, you would need far more plants to use up all of the fish's waste. I'd recommend a sponge filter for that size tank so that you don't have to worry about the outflow being too strong. They're incredibly low maintenance as well.

This pump

Tetra 77851 Whisper Air Pump, 10-Gallon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zKHNyb1F5JD7D

With this sponge

Jardin Fish Tank 6-Layer Sponge Biochemical Water Corner Filter, Black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT1XXJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cLHNyb6XMKG3Z

Would work very well for a 5 gallon.

I would bump the temperature up a bit since bettas do best from 76-82f

Definitely read up on what those numbers mean (not just the ideal range). I think that r/aquariums had a good guide in the sidebar, and Google is your best friend for fish research.

Edit (added link): http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/guide-to-starting-a-freshwater-aquarium-186089.html

As far as tankmates go, for a five gallon with a betta your options are limited to shrimp and snails. But you can still have plenty of fun with those!

Don't be afraid to ask questions!

1. Since you mentioned tank mates, I think the most affordable way to go would be to snag a 10 gallon during petco's dollar per gallon sale, (I think going on til almost the end of this month?) You can then price out affordable heater, filter, and lights, and the rest. Altogether, I bet you could get everything for ~$50.00...
   
   Otherwise, they have some alright 'kits' out there. I have both of these, and they're fine to get started, but I still needed to get a heater/thermometer, ended up upgrading the stock lights, etc... so they were more expensive than just starting from scratch.
   
   
2. I always prefer live plants, since they actually somewhat help with your water quality. Marimo moss balls are great. They just kind of... do their thing. Other easy, low maintenance plants include anubias, java fern, anacharis, najas (or guppy grass,) and those bulbs you can find at petsmart or petco are some kind of Aponogeton, those are usually hardy.
   
   
3. I like having a 'clean up crew' - pretty much any combination of snails, shrimp, and some otos.
   
   
4. I personally prefer natural rocks, driftwood, and plants... but they can get pricey. Some cheap/easy things I've seen have been coffee mugs or terra cotta planters laying on their sides.

My advice would be to get a strong light that's dimmable. Whatever light fixture you get may work great for others, but everyone has a unique situation. So having a dimmable light is nice because you can tune it to fit your situation.

I generally use the classic NICREW lights and attach an inline dimmer dial:

https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-ClassicLED-Aquarium-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B01C84SLRO/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RBXPDQU/

If you want to go one step further, the ideal light would be LED with white (I think 6500K-7000K were reported as ideal for plants, but I can't remember), red (660nm is ideal, but something close to that is fine), and blue/actinic (I think 440nm was the ideal one here). Something like the Finnex lights, but I currently dislike Finnex due to their use of proprietary DC power connectors. That means you can't use their fixtures with any of the common dimmers or gradual on/off timers out there. For bettas, that probably doesn't matter, but for some other fish, it can stress them out when the lights suddenly turn on.

oh boy, that's a lot of info...

Okay, I just turned the heater down a few degrees, so that's no biggie.

ATM I'm just feeding him regular betta pellets. I tried to get him to eat some blood worms, but he's having none of it (even though I made them into bite-sized pieces)

Okay, so do I need to soak betta pellets in Vitachem or Garlic Guard? Or..? I can buy either Northfin Pellets or Fluval Bug Bites, and 5-6 total is about how many he gets a day. Do I need to soak those in the Vitachem or Garlic Guard? Why should a fish fast? He normally doesn't get fed over the weekend as he's my office fish, so he goes two days without food. Is that bad?

https://www.omegasea.net/products/nutrition/frozen-bloodworms Okay, so like this one? And you're soaking it in the water to just have it melt, right?

So if I'm understanding correctly, in the AM, it's pellets soaked in Vitachem/Garlic Guard (one, not both, just not sure which one is better/I want atm so including both) and in the PM it's a small slice of the frozen food that's been defrosted. Now, all of this is just for nutrients, right? This is all related to healthy fin growth, but not specifically to treating Fin rot, right?

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116052306-StressGuard-500ml/dp/B001F0KX06 Okay, so this is the WCS, right? I've seen those Almond Leaves but was nervous about trying them without a recommendation. I might go with the Rooibos tea, as that seems slightly easier to monitor/manage? And this specifically is for treating fin rot, right?

Yup, I ordered it. Gosh dang, it all. I wish so much that my co-workers had kept him in a larger tank. Then again, this might have happened regardless of his tank size. Thanks a lot for the detailed response! =) And for answering all of my questions. I'm pretty much a fish novice, but I'm just trying to do right by the little guy.

Bleu has been happily living on my desk in my home office for about 2 weeks, the tank has been setup for about a month. He's currently the only inhabitant and I will likely be adding a few striped khuli loaches or some shrimp in the near future I haven't decied which direction to go yet. I also am trying to track down some floating plants but haven't had any luck at my LFS or Petsmart, I might check Petco in a larger city this weekend that's about an hour away or some LFS in that area.



Equipment:

10 Gallon tank from Petco $1/gallon sale

Aqueon 06105 Pro Heaters Submersible Aquarium Heater, 50-Watt

Marina Stainless Steel Thermometer

Perfecto Manufacturing APF33200 Glass Canopy Aquarium, 20-Inch

Marineland Single Bright LED Lighting System 18-24-Inch

Quantity 2 Marina S10 Power Filter

Penn Plax Hide-Away Stackable Stone Aquarium Ornament

Natural sand substrate

1 Java Fern

1 Wisteria (I think...)

I'm going to move the Java Fern today I read last night you aren't supposed to bury the Rhizome so I need to get it attached to a rock or piece of drift wood. I think a decent size piece of drift wood would help the barren look as well on the right until I can get some additional plants. The tank itself has been doing great the filters are very low current which is perfect for Bleu. I've been using the API freshwater master test kit to keep an eye on things and doing about a 25% water change every two weeks.

• edit: I'm using some filter floss and ceramic in one of the S10 filters with some filter sponge and the original filters in the other plus some filter floss in the output

Welcome to Betta keeping! Get ready to be addicted. No tank is too big IMO, you want your guy to have plenty of room. I would go with 8 gallons if you have room for it.

If you go with 8 gallons, this looks good and seems to be well reviewed. The 50-watt version.

Again, if you decide on 8 gallons, I would go with this. It comes with cartridges that don't need to be changed nearly as often as it says on the box. I generally only change my cartridges when they start to get really scummy; they house bacteria that is beneficial to your tank.

Bettas also like caves, hiding places and plants. A floating bunch of anacharis will eat up ammonia and give your fish a place to rest. Java fern also does well in a low-light environment.

You'll need to change the water once a week, and make sure to add water conditioner each time. This is my favorite brand.

Any other questions, feel free to PM me. Happy fish keeping!

Best advice is to take your time and buy what will make you happy. You'll only spend more money in the long run if you compromise now. Luckily, not everything needs bought at once. Tank, filter, and heater are necessary purchases now. Lighting and decor can be figured out more slowly.

I can recommend what I'd get in your position.

If you're going to buy a kit, this is a good one. Personally, I like this heater, but they do sell a cheaper version. So, about $100 for the tank, heater, filter, and light.

If you want to buy the parts separately, you can get a 10 gallon tank for $10-$15 or cheaper checking craigslist. You'll also need some kind of lid to cover the tank. You can buy glass ones or some people get a piece of glass or acrylic cut to cover it. Tank + lid: $25-$30

Aquaclears are my favorite filters for my tanks, but you could use a sponge filter. You'd need an air pump for the sponge one. So, $20-$25 for a filter.

Real plants are nice, but not necessary. You can do fine with fake ones, just make sure the edges aren't sharp. If you do want plants, the Spec V light should be plenty for low light plants. If you want to buy the light separately, this or this would be fine. I've had a Nicrew one on my larger tank before and it's enough for low light plants.

Or you could just get a clamp on lamp from the store and a daylight bulb. That whole set up would be about $10.

Until you get a new set up, I would recommend water changes at least once a day, if not more. I would also strongly recommend buying a water testing kit.

As stated in title, Fishy is the newest member of our household.

My first instinct was to read up on bettas and in doing so, found this subreddit.

I have several doubts, such as:

• what kind of betta is this?
  
  
• Is it healthy? (Ive seen more vibrant colors on pics posted here)
  
  
• Can/Should I pair it with other fish?
  
  
• Are pellets preferred over flakes?
  
  As per suggestions on this sub, I think buying a bigger tank is my number 1 priority; im currently looking into a Tetra Tank (3 Gallons), this one is favored by my wife, as she finds its aesthetically pleasing (and I agree). However, most people suggest a 5 Gallon tank, so Im also looking into a GloFish Tank, we both dislike the blue led on this model and the black plastic lid it comes with.
  
  In any case, we're also looking to buy the following:
  
  
• heater
  
  
• Thermometer
  
  
• Silk plant
  
  
• Log/Hiding spot
  
  
• Filter * which we think we would only buy if we get the Tetra Tank, as per amazon commenters suggestions.
  
  We already have a net (for scooping), drops to dechlorinate water, aquarium salt (for cleaning) and what you see already in the tank.
  
  Please help us give this fish an awesome life!
  
  PS.: We are not in the US, if it even matters.

This looks like bloat, as others have been saying. Please read up on it, as that should help you treat it. If you can, crank his heat up to about 82 degrees fahrenheit, fast him, maybe feed him just a wee bit of daphnia if you can get your hands on some. It helps regulate his digestive track to get him back where he needs to be. Make sure his water is clean (has had a 50% water change in the last 4-5 days, and if not give him one as soon as possible and another 25% in a few days--make sure it's water conditioned!) You could also give him a salt bath in epsom salt, with a tablespoon per gallon for five minutes if it doesn't get better in the next few days.

If it's dropsy, not just bloating, it could be something you can't really fix. However, if he does get better remember for the future that he can only eat the size of his eyeball. This is 1-2 pellets in the morning and at night, or the equivalent in worms or whatever he eats.

Hm. Maybe, I would start by using Stressguard and doing daily water changes, hopefully that will fix the fin and open wound looking thing problem. Stressguard is an antiseptic, it can help prevent infection and heal wounds. It can also relieve some stress in fish. The daily water changes are to keep ammonia levels down, which I am gonna guess you have some just because of the whole filter switch and monthly water change thing - and its okay! Easy fix on that - fish-in cycling.

Basically the fish-in cycling process consists of 50% water changes daily using Seachem Prime (preferably). Do this until your tank is cycled! Which the best way to check would be with the API master test kit, I already explained why in the other post :P

When the tank is cycled, you’ll test and find 0 parts per million (ppm) ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and ‘x’ amount ppm of nitrate. (Dont focus too hard on what parts per million means, its just how this stuff is measured. Nitrates should be kept under 20ppm, they arent as toxic as ammonia or nitrites but can be in large amounts.)

After your tank is cycled, you’ll need to do weekly water changes of 15-25% using a gravel vacuum preferably. Gravel vacuum/siphons allow you to get the dirt out of the gravel easily without needing to take it out. Highly recommend getting one of these! Its a necessity!

And as I already mentioned: Avoid large water changes, it could offset the balance of your tank. Never rinse the filter media in tap water, that can kill the beneficial bacteria too. And then to clean the filter, which I already said that too but ya know, just swish/squeeze out in old tank water - this preserves it better!

Im gonna include links to nitrogen cycle info so you can really familiarize yourself with it! And a link to how to fish-in cycle :) Also to the API master kit and Seachem Prime. Prime is a dechlorinater that also detoxes ammonia and nitrite for 24 hours. You can use this to dechlorinate new water, then dose the rest of the tank to make it safe for your boy after daily water changes!

Information:

Nitrogen Cycle: https://fishlab.com/nitrogen-cycle/

Fish-In Cycling: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

My diagram/explanation on the cycle:https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/comments/c8evu4/nitrogen_cycle_art_by_me/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

Supplies:

API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K

Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u-kKDbTMV2W8K

Seachem StressGuard Slime Coat Protection - Stress and Toxic Ammonia Reducer 500 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0KX06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vtVXDb4X69VQK

So! I read through both of the care sheets that someone recommended and saw that they do not cover specific equipment. I'll give you a list of items for a split 10 gallon setup that I highly recommend to beginners; 10 gallon tank with hood, 10 gallon tank divider, Eheim Jager 50W fully adjustable/submersible heater, the safest on the market, TWO of these Azoo Mignon 150 (5 gallon capacity) fountain-style [filters] (http://www.amazon.com/Azoo-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2) (One for each side of the tank as you'll want to run them on their lowest flow strength in order to avoid disturbing the fish, not to mention that the divider does not support good water flow between the two sides). This hardware setup should cost a bit over $100. I know it may sound pricey at first but it will be well worth it for happy, healthy bettas. Here's my male elephant ear, Beau!

Here's my suggested shopping list:

The API Water Testing Kit - about $22 at Amazon, might be more expensive at a pet shop

Indian Almond Leaves - ($7) I put in a fresh 1/4 a leaf each week

VitaChem - ($11) vitamin drops to help with color and fins - a drop a day and he'll swim around and hunt for the vitamin specs

Polisher Filter - ($3) Use scissors and cut a couple of chunks for the back compartment in the Marineland tank. It helps slow the flow down a little and kept the water super clean.

Thanks for the great suggestion!

It looks like the provided sponge/filter media is pretty subpar, so I wouldn't buy it without extra biomedia like an Aquaclear 20 sponge ($5 for the 3-pack or $1.50 if you buy a few things on Amazon at the same time) or a couple Fluval U1 foam pads ($1.50/each), or Aquaclear Biomax ($3). So, minus points for that added complexity/extra cost, but bonus points for low flow, adjustable intake, and included intake sponge!

I'll add it to the spreadsheet, I think I'll make a collection of suggested alternatives for each category. Thanks again!

Fasting could provide extra incentive to eat the pellets. Lots of Betta owners fast their fish one day per week to prevent constipation so that is perfectly okay.

You could try Hikari Betta Bio-Gold Baby Pellets which are a smaller pellet. My betta really likes these.

In the end you may have to go with whatever your fish will eat. They can be very picky eaters.

Here’s an inexpensive filter I use and a heater . You’re gonna need a API master test kit. It’s recommended that you cycle your tank. You can do a fishless cycle in which you’ll need ammonia to start the cycle. Or you can do fish-in cycling and add him after you put the water in.
Bettas love plants! Silk or real plants are the way to go, you should avoid plastic because it will rip their fins. if you get real plans i suggest java fern because it’s super hardy

This is super helpful and thank you so much! Another dumb question: Daphnia... like this? https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Bio-Pure-Freeze-Daphnia-0-42-Ounce/dp/B003WRG54I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492874188&sr=8-1&keywords=daphnia+fish+food Just do that for a period of time or switch him to that full time? And is the recommended dose for salt 1tsp per gallon? So for my five gallon, 5 tsp?

Yeah we bought a heater yesterday. If we were to purchase a filter like this would we be able to just hook up our current airstone pump to it and have it work? Or would we need to purchase something different? Thanks for your help!

Basically, you're killing him slowly. Ammonia (posion!) will build up in the tank while oxygen and other good stuff decreases. Imagine if someone sealed you in a 10x10 room and only let the air run once every 2-3 weeks.

If you want to save him, do this:

1. Get a damn test kit.. You need to know what these levels are to provide a healthy enviroment for your fish. Test the water at least once a week.
   
   
2. Stress coat.
   
   
3. What tempature is the water in your tank? Don't guess - use a thermometer. Betta fish like water that is 75-82 degrees. Water that is too hot or too cold will cause them to become lethargic or worse. If the water is too hot, do more water changes. Too cold, buy a heater for the tank.
   
   
4. Fishy needs a bigger tank. He may not be stressed, but depressed, since he doesn't get to swim or explore or do much of anything. 3 gallons is a good minimum size for a betta. But you'll need to do water changes once a week MINIMUM. It takes 15 minutes max.
   
   Invest 50 bucks on your fish, and you'll have a healthy, happy companion for at least 3 more years.
   
   
   
   

5g - Personally have many Chi IIs since they were very cheap when I found them and I just bought the store's stock. After around 6mo of running them I've decided I don't like them. The stock light is horrible, the stock filter is horrible. I had at first modified the filters to include ceramic biomedia from a cycled tank and I am glad I did because I found that the media that comes with the tank will quite actually fall apart when you try to clean it. Filter flow isn't strong enough to kick off debris from the bottom of the tank so you have to vac. I hate having to vac. If you want plants, you'll have to modify the light too. I ended up ditching the stock filter/light on all of them and hanging some Aquaclears on them with clip lights. Tip: You can baffle the flow of the Aquaclear by leaving the stock filter on the tank and just not running it. I've always put those cheapo adjustable Aqueon 50w heaters in these, this one. Just have to set it a little lower for the 5g.

I have a friend with a Fluval Spec V that I helped set up and his is doing well. We set it up with low light plants (lotsa java fern and water sprite) and just pointed the outflow at the glass. The water sprite baffles most of the flow that isn't baffled by the glass, but you can also put a sponge on the tip if you don't wanna get water sprite. For this tank, he went with a 25w Cobalt Neotherm which stays true to temp.

For HOB filters on every tank I have (up to 60 gallons!) I run Aquaclears. You do have to baffle it if you're putting it on a smaller tank but I promise it's really easy and takes like 10mins the first time. For heaters, I've done the aqueon one I listed above, this weird thing that is really cheap and I honestly have no complaints about or the Cobalt.

As far as lighting on a bare tank, that really depends what you want to do with the tank. Do you want a basic setup? Couple low light plants? Full carpet? Are you going to run CO2?

Really like the corner sponge filter- they're about five dollars and they work well to develop beneficial bacteria. Recommend getting an air pump that's next size up from what you need. So for example I have a 5.5 and I use a 10 gal pump.

I use a smaller version of this guy

I got freeze dried daphnia from amazon, https://www.amazon.ca/Hikari-Bio-Pure-Freeze-Daphnia-0-42-Ounce/dp/B003WRG54I
I have also heard about the pea method, but peas are considered not fit to feed because they are veggies while bettas are carniverous. It is the fibre content that is supposed to help them pass waste which is supposed to be helpful. If you have zero access to daphnia and really want to try something that could help quickly, read up a bit on the pea method and try that. From what I know it involves blanching a pea in boiling water then de shelling it and feeding a tiny amount (About 1/2-1/4 of the pea) to your fish after it has cooled a bit.

Tetra is a cheapo brand, I would recommend something else. But it will be fine as long as you baffle the output with a filter sponge or pantyhose.

Something like this would be better (will need an air pump).

Well, in the video he appears to be pretty active and swimming so I'd personally consider him healthy. As for stress coat, I use th API brand. You can get it from any local pet store or order it off of Amazon. I've linked the Amazon one below. It comes with instructions on how much to put in your tanks and the top is the little measuring cup to do so. I find it one of my most important additives to my fish tank and at my workplace (pet store) and it's helped me with quite q few issues I've had.

API STRESS COAT Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255MZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rqY3BbMPKABFG

>Is cycling essentially setting up the tank and letting it run for a few days before placing fish in the tank?

No. Cycling is creating a viable nitrogen cycle within your tank. To break it down very simply, fish create ammonia. Ammonia is toxic. In order to break down/process the ammonia, you need bacteria. These bacteria turn the ammonia into nitrItes, which are then converted by another bacteria into nitrAtes. So it's more complicated that just throwing a tank together and letting it sit for a few days.

You need to introduce an ammonia source into a new tank in order to start cycling it. This is typically done either with pure ammonia, or leaving fish food (or even a piece of shrimp) in the tank. Cycling requires patience and can take 3-6 weeks, but is absolutely worth it. Here is a "Fishless Cycling For Dummies" guide.

>I keep seeing mixed things about a filter. Obviously, it is better to have a filter than not, but don't most tanks come with a filter of Some sort? Is that enough?

Fish tank kits come with filters- just basic tanks do not. For instance, here is a 5 gallon kit that comes with a light and a filter. You will also need a heater, Bettas absolutely need one. They prefer temperatures of 78-82°F. Bettas also prefer a lower water flow, so you will potentially need to baffle the filter you end up with.

>I saw in a forum about adding live plants to the tank and needing or using soil base-- is that necessary? as a beginner should I just stick with smooth edged fake plants?

Live plants are always better, but silk plants will do fine. Just make sure your betta has plently of hiding spots.

For 5 gallons I love this heater, it stays at 78 degrees which is way better than "10 degrees above your room temperature" or 75 degrees. I got mine at walmart. For the filter I use a small air pump and this sponge filter. It's tiny but has both a sponge and rocky filter media, which you can replace with your own small biomax ceramic filter media. I found it could handle my betta's waste just fine.

​

edit: oops I just realized the heater I mentioned is yours haha. Mine works really well! I really haven't found a better one that's appropriate for such a small tank.

Clean, warm water will be the best thing you can do for your new fish friend. Definitely leave the filter on, your beneficial bacteria will die if the filter isn't running.

You can add a little bit of API stress coat to the water. I would avoid over-medicating and not doing anything extra like aquarum salt or antibiotics unless it gets worse.


In a 2gal tank with only one betta, I would do a 25% water change twice a week.

If you consider trying a filter again- I have had great success with this filter, while also using a home-made baffle cut out of a water bottle.

This has happened to me a couple of different times and I've resolved it a couple different ways:

1. If the fish's mouth is plenty big enough to fit the pellet, then fast him for 2 days and then try feeding him. This worked for me.
   
   
2. Use the cap to crush the pellet into a smaller size. You can even rub it against the grooves inside of the cap, to get it to a specific size.
   
   These are working for me right now, but I switched 100% to only these.
   
   Edit: if you feed an empty tank, you can start a nematode culture that these guys love to chase & eat. I have a tank full of nematodes that I'll drop fish into when they're not eating. One of my fish has realized and tries to swim into the transit jar as soon as I stick it in. Then he hides from the same jar when he's been in the tank. It's funny because the nematode tank is way smaller than his.

Yeah they're great, my betta hardly notices the shrimp. I've had ghost shrimp in the past too, but the Amano Shrimps are bigger and nicer to look at.

The tank, by the way, is available on Amazon and includes a filter, light, and compartment for the heater.

I'm very happy with my sponge filter! Here's my set-up:

• Filter = Jardin Economy Corner In-tank Filter
  
• Pump = JW Pet Fusion 200
  
• Airline tubing = Penn Plax Standard 8-ft
  
• Check valve = Lee's 2-way Plastic Valve
  

I have that little cave decor you see in the picture, and a floating betta log. Both feel smooth to the touch (inside and outside). I took out my betta leaf as I have seen some reports of it cutting up their betta’s tail. I also took a stiff fabric plant out as well as a plastic log I had in there. The log felt mainly smooth, but on the inside there were some tougher areas so I took it out to be the on the safe side.

I have a sponge filter with an airflow control valve connected to a bleed valve and check valve.

my filter

Not PetSmart, but this is a great filter for bettas. If you have Prime it will come in two days and if not I'm sure you could wait a week or so and just do regular water changes.

Giving me hope, thanks for the in depth response! I was going to get all the flourish liquid fertilizers but it seemed expensive and I really didn’t know which ones I needed for my particular plants so I’m going to go with easy green I guess and maybe pick up some excel if the crypt starts to die. Ive heard people say plants often get worse before better so when would it be time to call it and remove them? Not sure how they will do yet just planted them on Saturday. Here is the link to the light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C84SLRO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549337373&sr=8-3&keywords=nicrew%2Baquarium%2Blight&dpPl=1&dpID=31XoJS0-5iL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

There's this one for about $10 but I would add a couple $$ to get one that is adjustable in case of ich and other stuff. Maybe this one.

As for the filter, if the current from the output is too strong, just baffle it with sponge.

I switched to this corner filter and put Seachem matrix at the bottom instead of the ceramic rings for extra filtration since I have a snail and they're poop machines. This sponge filter is also a good option if you only have a betta since it takes up less space i n the tank. A lot of others on this sub have used it and seen good results from what I've read.

I like this one and I also use this one. But really it's up to you. 50 watts should be good enough in a 5.5

Aquarium heater

Aquarium filter

The glass tops come with a plastic adjustment backing, all you have to do is cut out pieces so that you only have space for your heater and filter in the back. I added a few other links that I hope you can access.

Plant Light

Glass lid

Got it all on amazon!

Filter

Light

Heater

Edit: You might want to go bigger on the heater than what I got. I think mine is good up to a 10g.

Filters serve three main purposes: 1) The sponge filters out debris, 2) The carbon filters out chemical components like chlorine, flouride and metals, 3) Hosting nitrifying bacteria; these bateria are essential for neutralizing the ammonia that your fish's waste produces.

Here's the problem with these disposable cartridge filters: They say they need to be replaced because activated carbon only lasts for so long and eventually needs to be replaced. But if you throw the whole filter out, you're tossing away your colony of nitrifying bacteria, the ones that are taking care of the toxic ammonia in your tank.

These cartridges aren't great and are just made to make you spend more money. If you throw it out, you toss your bacteria, but if you don't, your carbon is useless - they don't have a great solution. What I recommend is an actual three stage filter - this means it has a separate sponge, bag of carbon, and bag of bio media, so that you can change the carbon and rinse the sponge without having to crash your bacteria cycle. I normally recommend AquaClear but that's pretty big for 3.5 gallons, maybe you can find something similar in an appropriate size that has all three types of filter media.

Thanks! The tank is about 2.6 gallons (which I know is cutting it close, but that's as big as we can go currently). The tank comes with a circulation pump and a foam block/carbon/bio ring filter system. We switch the carbon as necessary and clean the bio rings/block.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-2-6-Gallon-Black/dp/B009K0ZKAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524163916&sr=8-1&keywords=fluval+spec+iii

This and this is what I have, but for about the same price you can get the gold standard. I honestly wouldn't be using the strips, except I got them to test my water for hardness before I had any tanks (it's liquid rock) and the Walstad setups I have have a different ecology than a traditional tank.

One of the best betta foods on the market is Hikari Gold. These pellets are baby-sized too!

Maybe she could look into a 5 gallon portrait tank if she's concerned about taking up space. They really have a small footprint while still giving the fish a decent swimming space and all the benefit of the larger volume of water.

I apologize if my post came off snarky, but bettas are a very misunderstood breed. They belong in a min. 5 gallon tank. I've seen others raise in something as small as a 3 gallon tank, but it was not worth the maintenance they had to keep up on. Bettas do best in 78-80 degree water, so a heater and thermometer is mandatory. You want a filtration system, but you want to be careful with the current as something too strong will stress them out. Bettas are not the best swimmers because of the weight of their fins, so most bettas will began to bite them off to lessen the load. As others have suggested, you want to test the water, either by bringing samples to your lfs, are buying a kit, which I prefer. You will also want to cycle your tank to avoid ammonia spikes. I've added links to some helpful things including illnesses so you may be able to diagnose with a little research.

Betta illnesses

Nitrogen cycle

Betta fish care

Great filter with adjustable flow

Heater 100w



Edit : api test kit

Great for establishing a new tank

Dechlorinate, detoxify

This filter has been extremely reliable. I have used both this one and the smaller one in my tanks and they've been great.

I use a sponge filter in my 5 gal. Seems to be the smallest one on the market and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYEO8H6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wHAqDbP9736K4

I was always a HOB person myself until the one on my 30g and the one on my 5g decided to start leaking on the floor within a week of each other 😂 Since then I’ve stuck with internal filtration. Powerhead driven sponge filter on the 30g plus a second small internal filter for added circulation and a source of seeded filter media for hospital or new tanks; in my 5g I had a large sponge filter for a while, then I tried an under gravel filter and hated it, so I switched to a tiny combo [sponge / “box” filter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HYEO8H6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title) that I love; air powered corner box filter in the 10g plus a sponge that I stuck an air stone inside of to make more surface area for the beneficial bacteria; finally I have a Fluval Spec III at work which comes with built in filtration that is essentially a giant sponge filter but with a small pump that pulls the water through it.

Sorry that was way more info than you wanted, but I figured if you were thinking of switching I’d give you some options 😂

1. Not cycled, I'm doing a fish in cycle that's about 2 weeks in. I'm using Seachem Stability to accelerate the process.
   
2. Nitrates: 0, Nitritates: 0, pH: 7.5, GH: 40
   
3. I do about 50%-70% water changes every 2-3 days, and vaccum the substrate every time. I have a bunch of small rocks as substrate.
   
4. Nothing
   
5. I'm using this filter with this sponge and this biomax
   
   Thanks.

Sure! I got mine from amazon, the brand is SunGrow. . I always rinse them and then soak them before adding them to the tank.

Amazon they look really good for the price.

If you don't feel like switching to a sponge filter, this is the one I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/Azoo-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_5554483011 . It's pretty quiet, and the flow can be tuned down to just a trickle. It comes with an intake sponge too.

I don't know what dimensions exactly you are looking for, how much you want to spend, or how good these tanks are, but here are some 5 gallon tanks that are taller as opposed to wider.

http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-ML90609-Portrait-Aquarium-5-Gallon/dp/B00O8SZTKQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1458881910&sr=1-2&keywords=5+gallon+fish+tank

http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Pillar-Aquarium-Kit-6-Gallon/dp/B007SUUH7Q/ref=sr_1_13?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1458881910&sr=1-13&keywords=5+gallon+fish+tank

http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Chi-Aquarium-Set-5-Gallon/dp/B00FSQCXF6/ref=sr_1_14?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1458881910&sr=1-14&keywords=5+gallon+fish+tank

http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Contour-Glass-Aquarium-5-Gallon/dp/B00GOFS8P4/ref=sr_1_20?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1458881910&sr=1-20&keywords=5+gallon+fish+tank

Sure! Here you go! https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-2-6-Gallon-Black/dp/B009K0ZKAQ?sa-no-redirect=1

Would something like this work?

https://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522978299&sr=8-3&keywords=sponge+filter+fish+tank

Unless I am mistaken, they are Marina Power S10s.

They are cheap and awesome. LINK

I was going to recommend that or the marineland contour which is about the same. They come with filters too.

Oh, you'll probably need to pick up a fresh water test kit when you can. You really only need an ammonia test kit for the moment.

You DO need a heater. I have a betta in a temporary 2 gallon hospital tank and I use this heater. 50W is plenty, just make sure the heater can be completely submersed.

Do you have a walmart by you? They sell empty 10 gallon tanks for 14.99 regularly priced. You could order from the website to store, too.
https://www.walmart.com/browse/pets/10-gallon-aquariums/5440_202074_8218041

I like these cheap filters I got off of Amazon that have an adjustable flow. They're 13.99 each.
https://www.amazon.com/Marina-A285-S10-Power-Filter/dp/B0032G8TPW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522288540&sr=8-1&keywords=marina+s10+filter

Then you'd only need one more heater, and if you keep the water level low enough in the 10 gallons you shouldn't have any issue with jumping until you can get hoods and lights, and even if you kept the water level really low it'd be way better than what they have now.

I ordered the Hikari freeze dried brand of daphnia on amazon, here !

Amazon! I ordered these ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HG1TMIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1510297047&sr=8-6&keywords=almond+leaves&dpPl=1&dpID=51rKoAFt3GL&ref=plSrch

Thank you. His water is normally around 80-81F.

Food is a little confusing. I used to feed him a regiment of pellets, daphnia, and mysis shrimp, but on Hikari's website, their daphnia and mysis shrimp are listed as "treat" while pellets are "daily diet". So I've switched to pellets daily: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00025Z6JS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with some blood shrimp as treats. Any suggestions one way or the other regarding this?

similar. I got Aquaclear version: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006JLO5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and also Aquaclear sponges: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQK48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and cut them to fit the filter.

I've been looking at this filter on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26316-Whisper-Filter-5-10-Gallon/dp/B001CHXJSK

I use this cheap six-layer sponge filter and a Tetra Whisper air pump. There are several styles of sponge filter so it's really your preference. Round, corner, or with suction cups to stick on the side are all about the same and would be fine in a five gallon. I like the Tetra pumps because they're a good combination of cheap, quiet, and reliable. I've had the one I linked running 24/7 for over three years with no problem. You'll probably want to get a valve for the air line so you can adjust the air flow and a check valve if you put the pump lower than the aquarium.

I have used this one and keep it in the section that has the pump mechanism, shielding it from the main tank..

Aqueon Submersible Aquarium Heaters 50W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YAJJZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_YnE5EVFDf2qqh

Will this be okay?https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26316-Whisper-Filter-5-10-Gallon/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504055706&sr=8-3&keywords=5+gallon+aquarium+filter
Would I need a sponge on the intake for shirmps?

Yup! It’s this stuff here, you should be able to find it at Petsmart/Petco too.
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116052306-StressGuard-500ml/dp/B001F0KX06?th=1&psc=1

Non-mobile link

5 gallons.
https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Contour-Glass-Aquarium-5-Gallon/dp/B00GOFS8P4

This is all you'll need along with an air pump and an air stone to get the bubbles smaller.

https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539614035&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=aquaclear+30&psc=1

That’s a link to what I got. I bought mine in store at petco though and it may have said fluval aquaclear on it, I don’t know if they work together or something.

aquaclear 30

sponge filter

Absolutely! I wasn't sure it was allowed at first. I have two of the Marina Ecoscaper Hydrocotyle Silk Plant. $2.97 (!) at Amazon, but it's an add-on item, so it only ships with an order of $25 or more.

https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2


This one? I hear bad reviews... I ordered one of these https://www.amazon.com/Deep-Blue-Professional-ADB88700-Aquarium/dp/B00BUFTI6Q

but I wanna order this one too to compare and see... any reviews on other one?

Most likely not (working as well). And there are ones that for the price of getting the materials to put into the container, and the container itself... well... you could have just gotten one of known good materials:

(side note) your betta may LOATHE the surface disturbance from the bubbling... I seem to be getting far better responses from the hagen/fluval/aquaclear 20 series for the smaller tanks... has adjustable flow, and far quieter than an air pump.

option 1:
http://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Efficient-Economy-Filters/dp/B00511P8CS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1462470473&sr=8-3&keywords=bubble+filter

option 2: http://www.amazon.com/PENN-PLAX-SAM-Penn-plax-Bubbler/dp/B0002AQ2LY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1462470473&sr=8-4&keywords=bubble+filter

http://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462470473&sr=8-1&keywords=bubble+filter

HOB filter: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3579+3608+3610&pcatid=3610&r=2

Oh sorry! I should have mentioned. The tank isn't new. I used the tank for several years for some turtles and the glass is a bit cloudy from water stains + my bad phone camera. I have a PH kit here : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NAK/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and as for conditioner I am using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255MZG/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have yet to change the water, however I did let the tap water sit in the tank for a few days before adding live plants. After a few days for all of the bubbles in the tank to disappear I bought him and added him to the tank.

EDIT: Tried to get a better picture of the tank with the lighting on. http://i.imgur.com/BJrtppE.jpg

Check out this link:
http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm

Tanks or bowls, cycling should be applied to anything you are keeping your fish or other aquatic life in. I'm not sure how familiar you are with cycling but I'll just start from the very basics, just in case.

All fish produce waste which breaks down into Ammonia. Ammonia is very toxic to fish but is actually food for certain types of bacteria. These bacteria will turn Ammonia into NitrIte. Nitrite is still toxic, but you have other types of bacteria to turn Nitrite into NitrAte. Nitrate is what you what you want to end up with - unfortunately nitrate is still toxic to fish but only in large quantities.

The idea of cycling a tank is to build up your bacteria colonies so the fish poop is converted very fast - so that your tank has basically zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and very low nitrate at all times. Here's where water changes come in, you want to do water changes regularly so that the nitrates in your tank do not get too high. Around 25% water change every week should do it.

To build up your colony, you need to put in fish poop, or anything that can decay and release ammonia so you can jump start your cycle. Fish flakes are good, any decaying matter really. Some people even put in cooked cocktail shrimp. Other people buy pure ammonia from your local grocery store/home depot/whatever. Obviously you don't want to put in any chemicals or foods that would stick around after you finished cycling that is harmful to fish, so don't get the ammonia cleaners - you need pure ammonia. Fish food is a safe bet if you are unsure of what to get, but it is a little slower because you have to wait for it to break down and release ammonia. I recommend grinding up fish flakes to a fine dust for fastest breakdown.

You can just drop in your fish food/or other ammonia source once every day - pretend you are feeding imaginary fish, and wait. Cycling usually takes 3-4 weeks.

Also, you should get an ammonia testing kit such as from [API](http://www.amazon.com/API-LR8600-Ammonia-Test-Kit /dp/B0002566TC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348514328&sr=8-1&keywords=ammonia+test). I linked you only to an ammonia kit but a lot of people opt for the API Masters kit which tests for Ammonia as well as a slew of other parameters, such as pH.