Remember, even though you're a short guy, you're as tall as the average American women, so there will be plenty of offerings for you. Don't be afraid to try on a women's bike if you decide to buy a bike at a local bike shop near you. Here's a nifty tool that lets you calculate what frame size you'll need.

Performance Bike, a US bike chain store, has a number of great guides on how to get started bike commuting. I'll also copy part of a post I recently wrote to another guy looking to get into commuting via bike.

>As a bike commuter, you'll need a number of things to stay safe and make sure your bike stays in your hands. Here are the essentials:

>1. Front and rear lights. I use this flashlight for my front light, and a rear light similar to this.

>2. A helmet. From your posting history, you seem to live in [Glasgow]. All helmets sold [there] are required to meet the same safety standards so in all likelihood, spending more on a helmet will not make you safer. Buy one in a store and you're set.

>3. A great bike lock. Read this to learn the proper way to lock your bike.

>However, staying safe is only the first part. You'll want or need a number of other items to make sure that your commute isn't frustrating. Here are some of the items off of the top of my head.

>1. Bike pump. If you're going to mostly ride near gas stations which have air pumps that can inflate a tube, you probably don't need to carry around a mini pump on your rides. However, everyone should own a floor pump.

>2. Degreaser. The cheap automotive kind is fine as is WD 40. This is used when you need to clean the drivetrain.

>3. Bike lube. Stick with a bike specific one.

>4. Disposable poncho. When I lived in an area where it often rained, I always had a dollar store disposable poncho in my backpack. It's just super handy if there's an unexpected downpour.

>5. Fenders. I personally don't have them, but I live in a relatively dry climate. If you live in a place where it always rains, they're super helpful.

>6. Bottle cage. A cheap plastic one is fine.

>7. Tire levers.

>8. Rear rack. Assuming you don't have a full suspension mountain bike and instead have a hard tail (here's an article if you're unsure), get a rear rack. Do not get one that is only mounted to the seat post like this Ibera, but rather one that connects to the bike frame. If your bike does not have any bolts that can attach, you can use P clamps to secure the rack. This post describes how to do just that.

>9. Some way to transport groceries. While I use a milk crate that I ziptied onto my rear rack with bungee cords on top of the crate (similar to this setup), many others use panniers to transport groceries and other goods. This has the benefit of more storage, better center of gravity, and can be water proof. However, they are usually much more expensive unless you go the DIY route.

>10. Bike bell. Cars won't be able to hear you, but if you ride in areas with lots of pedestrians or other cyclists, it's useful.

>11. Spare tube. Fortunately tubes are cheap and super easy to find. Any department store with a bike section will carry them.

>/r/bikecommuting can be a helpful resource if you have other questions.

So, I have done Vancouver to Tijuana and used almost exclusively this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Vicky-Spring/dp/0898869544/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1323197410&sr=1-1

I ended up hating it, some things are wrong,it's hard to use a book while riding, etc. but it got the job done.

Another alternative that is really useful are the adventure cycling maps:
http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes/pacificcoast.cfm

Or like fayette said, ditch the preplanned route, it honestly is way more fun and feels more like you are on your own adventure. A lot of areas will have free bike maps of the region, like the Discovery Trail on the Olympic Peninsula. And you can just use road maps bought at a gas station. The downside to this is that many times you will take a big highway when there was a barely used country road that you could have taken.

Luckily for you there are hiker/biker sites in most campgrounds all the way up the coast. They normally cost around $5 a person and will have warm showers. Or, what it took me forever to learn was to bush camp. Go to a park and find somewhere hidden, get out your sleeping bag and sleep. Not having a car really helps hide in the park and it ends up saving a lot of money.

Also, I would consider taking Highway 1 up as far as you can. The grades are a little steeper and the shoulders a little smaller, but it is much better riding than the 101. Once you hit California(from Oregon), highway 101 turns into a highway, 4 fast lanes, wide shoulders and shallow grades. This comes at a cost, it is hotter, dustier and less scenic. While this doesn't sound so bad, it gets old quick.

For food I'm not sure what your plan is. I highly recommend getting a backpacking stove and lightweight pot. It will save you a lot of money and make you much more flexible. Usually you can go to most places and they will fill up your water or you can fill it up at their soda machines.

I did pretty much this same trip last summer (a few months ago) except it was from Seattle to Santa Cruz. It was so awesome.

Here are the pictures: http://itsbiggerontheinside.imgur.com/all/

If you have every backpacked before, you just need the essential gear that you would bring backpacking. I camped everynight (about 5$ a night in california/oregon and then it gets ridiculously expensive ~$15 a night in Washington) so I brought my camping stove, hammock to sleep in along with a rain tarp, warm clothes... The essentials.

You say you're training on that bike, but not riding on it? And you said it's a fixed gear... It's not a fixed gear, it has gears. Do you know how many? I did my ride on a 1984 Miyata 1000, and it held up great. If your bike has good enough gears, and eyelets for paniers, you should be fine on it.


I don't know your route, but if you are going to go along the coast (which I recommend), there's a great book called bicycling the pacific coast. It tells you where campsites are, things to see, and it suggests how long you should travel for each day.

You said that you are planning on doing it in 2-3 weeks. I did it in 24 days, and that was about 50 miles a day with a few rest days. If you are walking at all (im a little confused about what you're really doing) it will take you longer.

I think that you have some superfluous things that you are bringing as well. A backpack, hiking shoes (if you aren't riding clip less, you should be fine without hiking shoes). You didn't mention that you are bringing rain pants in you packing list (unless i skimmed over it), and you may want to bring those in the spring months for the Northern Coast. It can be cold, and wet.

I hope you have a great time! I looks really rad. If you don't have your bike yet, check craigslist! You'll find some awesome deals for awesome bikes on there.

Also, feel free to ask anything.

The easiest would be to just go to a local bike shop, ask them what needs to be done, and have them do it.

It sounds like you are interested in getting your hands dirty and doing the work yourself. In that case, the usual advice would be to get to your nearest bike coop, take one of their bike maintenance classes or rent space in their shop and have someone help you out figuring out what you need to do and how to do it. But it looks like your closest bike coop might be in Sacramento, which is a bit of a hike. There is apparently a guy in Chico who is in the process of starting a bike coop, so you might want to try contacting him.

Beyond that, you can try striking out on your own. A few good resources for learning about bike maintenance are Sheldon Brown's website (ignore the crappy 90's style design, he has tons of good information on his site) and the Park Tool website (they have lots of good repair info, and they will sell you all of the tools you might need). If paper is more your thing, then good beginning books would include Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance, or the Park Tool book. And I know you've already been redirected to /r/bicycling from AskReddit, but for bike repair questions, /r/bikewrench might be more helpful (check out the sidebar here on /r/bicycling for links to FAQs and other relevant subreddits).

As far as not riding like a douchebag, if you ask 10 cyclists you'll probably get 11 different answers (and if you ask non-cyclists, you will probably get a lot of dangerous advice). There will be endless debates as to whether it's OK to run red lights, whether you should pass on the right or split lanes, whether bike lanes are a good thing or not, whether you should wear a helmet, etc. Some of the more universal tips: ride with lights at night. Don't ride on the sidewalk. Don't be a bike salmon (riding the wrong way in traffic). Be predictable. I find that BicycleSafe.com has some practical tips on safety without getting too much into the endlessly debatable points.

And finally, welcome to cycling! I hope you enjoy it; it can be a lot of fun, get you some exercise without even really trying, and is so much cheaper and less hassle to deal with than driving a car.

A tool kit (or a good bike multi-tool) is fairly inexpensive, and is incredibly useful for maintaining, repairing, and upgrading bikes. It's not going to directly affect your ride to and from work, buthelp you keep your bike in top condition so that your ride is easy and safe.

Something like this kit, or this one would be a good place to start, and supplement with individual tools as you need them.

A fairly comprehensive multi-tool like this one would also work for infrequent repairs, though they can be somewhat cumbersome to use at times.

Lastly, a good repair book might not be a bad idea. I like Lenard Zinn's Zinn and the Art of (Road/Mountain) Bike Maintenance. However, there are also man great websites and youtube tutorials (park tools has some excellent guides on their site) that will fulfil the same role.

For just commuting and stuff I'd say go with a AA or AAA flashlight. they won't be as bright, but they will be much more versatile. Get some eneloops and you'll have a great system for years.

Personal favorite flashlight in the AAA dept is the Nebo Redline.

I know most people here like the Twofish Lock Blocks for holding the flashlight.

Or you could get the two as a combo.

That should be a good and easy to use system that's brighter than you really need for a price that's affordable.

btw, I'm leary of DealExtreme...they look fairly shady and there's not even specs for things like lumen output on a lot of those lights. Often you get what you pay for, and I'm guessing on those lights it's not worth the $8 you'd save.

Grab a pack of these https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

These invisible during the day, but super bright at night. Combine them with some reflective tape on the frame, bright lights, maybe some tyres with reflective sidewalls when the time comes to change them, plus bright clothes and you're super safe!

I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.

Things for the road

Frame/ Mini pump

Saddle Bag

Patch Kit

Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)

Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)

Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)

Bike Lights

Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)

Bottles of choice

Sunglasses of choice

Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)

Cycling compter

U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.

Things for home

Floor pump

Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)

Wet and Dry chain lube

Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)

Hi-Vis Jacket

Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking

Jersey

Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts

Windbreaker

Leg Warmers

Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)

EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.

Hey nice bike! If I were you I would add a saddle bag with some tubes, tire levers, and maybe get a small pump, and since you're just commuting the whole "it ain't aero" thing doesn't really fucking matter in my opinion ;) I would recommend this and these and this. Also read up on sites like Sheldon Brown for basics, and also I would recommend the GCN youtube channel for repair and maintenance. Also as far as locks go get a U-lock like this for most security and use this locking method. Have fun and stay safe, and feel free to ask any questions to me or any of the other people on this sub!

I'd say plan ahead for your move back to Cambridge now and get a proper bike lock like the Kryptonite Evolution Series. No bike lock is 100% secure, but that one does a good job balancing weight, security, and price. It will deter casual thieves with simple tools (like a hacksaw or crowbar), which is about the best you can hope for and should be totally fine for your grocery trips.

The link I posted goes to a package with a U-lock and cable. This GIF shows you how to use the two of them together to make sure that the frame and both wheels are securely locked up. U lock goes around the seat stays (or rear wheel inside the triangle) and the bike rack, cable wraps the front wheel, downtube, and U lock.

I picked up this bike about a year ago and have had great success with it so far. I took it to a local shop, got a few tweaks done and was ready to roll. Most road bikes you see mentioned run starting about $700 for the cheapest model (new out the box), and if it is something you are just getting in to doing, that is a pretty big investment.

So I dropped $179 on the afrementioned bike, got a little CatEye comp, a water bottle, saddle bag, and off I went. Less than $200 and I've put in some serious milage in the last year and absolutely love it.

Also, I see it like this. If I can do some serious mileage on a low end bike, then when I DO upgrade to something expensive (and even still I am not breaking the $1,000 mark) then it will be all the better when I make that move. Training on a heavy ride, then upgrading to lighter bike will make those really long roadies go much easier.

If you're having knee issues, learn to spin 80-90 RPM all the time, and 90+ up hill. Cateye makes a good, cheap computer with a speed and cadence sensor. I have knee issues from running in HS (800m and 400m hurdles) and I was mashing the pedals for a long time before I started to go easy and spin. While my knee issues are not totally gone, I put 250-300 miles on my bike in a week with very little pain now.

Other general advice? Keep your core in shape off the bike, cycling is super core dependent but very poor at core development. Stretch your hips as much as you feel comfortable with. Cycling is generally dependent on hip flexibility for power, especially in the drops, but normal cycling posture only makes your hips tighter.

Most importantly, always have fun. Runner's high can't hold a candle to good cycling :)

Everyone has a favorite chain lube. I use Finish Line. Honestly, it doesn't make too much difference which lube you use, as long as it's one specially formulated for chains. Some are designed for wet conditions, which is good for some people.

For cleaning, pick up some automotive degreaser. Bike-specific degreaser is expensive and isn't really much better.

To clean the chain, you can usually just use a rag and some degreaser. A chain cleaning tool (the ones with three internal brushes) is handy, but not required. Always lube after cleaning, which should be done every 100-200 miles.

If you really want a clean drivetrain, I highly recommend an ultrasonic cleaner. Very effective at cleaning the cassette and chain, with almost no effort. Just remember to relube the chain really, really well after cleaning it.

I agree that the reflectors are a great idea. Here is some awesome reflective tape! you could put anywhere on your bike! The wheels or pedals are great spots because they are moving and will catch a drivers attention super fast. I agree that headlamps make for an excellent light! Wal-mart sells pretty good ones for $5. I recommend people in the market for one to get the small one that has ONE led and uses a small battery as opposed to multiple LED's and bigger batteries because that extra weight is very annoying on your forehead, but if it's a small one and light, it's very comfortable

The brakes I have are like the ones on regular bmx/mountain bikes. I'm not looking to change those but,

This is the bar I'm buying:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MMOI6O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A1J160NEEMK233

I would like these brakes and have it look like this:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_V4w18ZWaPas/SfzzbZt3eoI/AAAAAAAAEtI/QeUuDAJQWQU/s400/Bicycle-Brake-Levers-05.jpg

I was looking at these levers:
http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=pd_luc_top_sim_02_04_t_lh

But I am entirely not sure on what I need to make it happen, are their special housings I need to buy? or better brake levers out there? Anything info would help out a lot.

I am riding just a single speed track bike with size 25.4cm handlebars if that helps.

I love the 7.2 FX, it was my primary bike for about a year - a real "do everything" machine.

as you approach 30-40 mile rides, the seat gives you "hotspots", the grips give you blisters, the tires wear out after maybe 1200 miles, and the original eggbeater pedals squeek & fall apart.

I've yet to actually go clipless on my road bike (I know, I know), so I can't speak about that, but if distance is your primary goal then padded shorts, a new saddle, ergon grips, riding gloves & better tires are things I bought first, and I'd do it that way again. If performance is your primary goal or you already have those things, then yes - the next upgrade I would have made myself would have been the pedals.

I got 50-60 mile rides out of the 7.2 without clipless pedals, but that was mostly brute force rather than equipment. I don't mean to be a jerk, but honestly - it isn't a bike made for very very long distance. The 150-250 a good set of clipless pedals and shoes cost you can put you well on your way to a decent road bike much more comfortable on long distance rides. Don't worry, there are still plenty of excuses to go back to the FX for various riding. Just my experience, personally.


I picked myself up a pair of Shimono PD-R540's off Amazon before my morning ride just today - about 1/2 the price of the two LBS's I checked.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SPD-SL-Road-Pedals-Black/dp/B000P9TOHQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1335742964&sr=1-1

These work great: http://www.amazon.com/X-Tra-Rear-Bicycle-Fender-wheels/dp/B000X61N2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458140255&sr=8-1&keywords=sks+fender

Not small enough to fit in a backpack (it'll stick out some) but very easy to install/remove and does a great job catching rear-wheel spray. Clamps to the seat post and can easily be adjusted to fit around a saddlebag/light.

When I first started riding I was in the same position. I was good friends with a guy who'd been riding his whole life. (1) I asked him to teach me. (2) There was a bike shop that did free workshops and I would go to those. (3) Lastly I watched a lot of YouTube videos. (4) I'd also get a book like Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance. It will be trial and error at first, but eventually the basics become second nature and the more advanced repairs can be done with reference material, patience, and luck. Good luck.

Assuming it's a 26" junker MTB, and Washington is the state (versus Washington DC)....

I use these tires while there's no snow: Kenda K838s

I'm on my second year of these tires. They do everything I expect them to do, at a cheap enough price. They do great in wet and dry conditions, and work okay with fresh snow.

For fenders, I use these: Planet Bike ATB Fenders

These perform okay, but honestly, I often wish I had purchased the version with the extra mud flaps. They keep most of the crap off me, but during heavy rain those flaps would be great at keeping my shoes clear of the spray from the K838s.

I cannot recommend the Rocket Ratchet enough for all-around, single tool efficiency. It's gotten to the point where I don't actually use the tools in my toolbox even when I'm at home. I just use the ratchet and it's way better. Any multi-tool with a chain-breaker will work, I've just had a really good time with that one.

After that a set of Pedro's. For my money, they're the best levers around. Great durability, can spoke-lock from both sides, and I've never ripped a tube with them, even on bullshit 23 tires.

After that basic patch kits, they'll use them all the time until they throw their hands in the air five years from now and scream "FINE I'LL GO TUBELESS."

Those are kind of the basics, and will allow them to work 90% of the stuff on their bike. The other 10% becomes more expensive and more specialized.

EDIT: oh, and a spoke wrench is the other cheap and highly useful item to have around.

I did seattle to Santa Cruz, I can tell you a bit about my trip. I did it a little differently than Ben I believe, by going along the coast the whole time.

• I really didn't plan my trip, and I liked it that way. I knew I was going to visit a friend from high school in Seattle, and visit a friend in Humboldt, but that was it. I bought a map for each state I passed through, and carried a book with me called 'bicycling the pacific coast': http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Complete-Canada/dp/0898869544.
  
  
  -I mainly stayed on the 1/101. Sometimes you have, or want to, veer off onto smaller highways, just look at a map.
  
  -I used a jetboil, a handy backpacking cooking thing. Good for heating up liquid substances, bad for stir-frying and stuff like that. A common meal for me was bread, beans, and avocado.
  
  -I camped every night. I use a hammock for backpacking, and I love it because it is very comfortable and keeps you completely dry when it rains. For biking, it is a godsend. It stretched out my legs while I slept so my knees felt good in the morning. I slept one night on the ground, and it was awful.
  
  -Sunglasses, rocks and bugs are scary.
  Even thought these fit into the 'spare parts' category, bring extra screws. I never would have thought of that, I there were times where i was.... screwed.
  
  -Do it!

I'm currently using my MTB for the same reasons. This week I finally put a couple of new Kenda 838 tires on it, and immediately noticed a huge difference from my worn out knobby tires. The engineering of them is very cool (they are a lot like motorcycle tires, and have an almost bell-shape for gripping better on turns), they're much smoother and quieter, and the improved grip on turns is really noticeable. $17.34 each on Amazon.

Definitely also get some good padded gloves and a decent helmet! And since you're commuting, I'd also suggest a mini tool, tire levers (for removing tire from rim), pump, patch kit, chain lube, and front/rear lights for low-light riding.

I've used Chamois Butt'r and DZ Nuts and liked them both, but the Chamois Butt'r was more cost effective (I purcahsed the DZ Nuts on clearance, so it was cost effective that one time), so that's what I've stuck with since it does the job. I'm sure others will comment on what brand they use as well, perhaps there is an even more cost effective option out there.

The term clipless is kind of stupid, because you "clip in". I think a better term is "cleated".

Years ago, pedals were flat and had "toe clips", which was a cage that went over the toes. Now, pedals use cleats mounted to the shoes to keep your foot attached to the pedal. Helps you transfer power better, and utilize more of the pedal stroke than flat pedals can. Mainly, you can ride farther with less fatigue because you can utilize different muscle groups in your leg.

Some of the most popular for road bikes are Shimano SPD-SL pedals, or Look Keo pedals which are very similar. You can find an inexpensive pair of Shimanos for $30-$40.

There are also Wellgo pedals that use the Look cleats for a little less. Some people find the Look cleats easier to lock in and get out of.

Some people also use Shimano SPD pedals that are meant for mountain bikes because the cleats are smaller and generally the shoes have the cleats recessed so you can walk in them easier. For long distances riding however, road pedals are better and give better power transfer.

Here's a video explaining them and how they work

The kryptonite mini is $35, but is an absolutely fantastic lock if you want to go up that high:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AMPRG0/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000OZ9VLU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0811NS4PXZAZSRVRJC83

I'm sure there are lots of other good U-Lock options on amazon and other retailers though, just take a look around.

Amazon: 3m 36" x 2" Red $5.46

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlite-Reflective-2-Inch-36-Inch/dp/B000BO71M0

Ebay: 120" x 2" alternating red/white DOT certified tape: $12
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-feet-dot-3m-reflective-tape-Each-piece-is-2in-wide-by-12in-long-6-red-and-6-/130906558757


I have some of the cheep 36" 3m tape (in white) and shining a light on it in a dark garage it definitely helps, has held up great though mud/rain.

The DOT certified tape is probably better (same stuff you see on semi-trailers). Looks like it has bigger hex reflector pattern.

These are exactly what I have on my spokes, they work really well. I also took the extra hub stickers and put them on my helmet instead.

Also in auto parts stores or paint stores (interestingly) or the corresponding departments of a larger store, you can find reflective tape. So far I've found white and red. I also usually find it right next to an identically sized green tape, but that one's not reflective, so don't fall for it. It'll be about two inches wide and not that long, it's kind of expensive. like this (though what I found wasn't that expensive)

If you cut it half as wide you can put it down the smaller parts of your frame (such as the chain guide), on pedal cranks, strips on your helmet, on any chain/cog guards, and if you really have steady and accurate fingers, around your spokes just like the Light weights stickers. Use full-width strips to make rings on the fuller parts of your frame.

I even took a leftover bit of the reflective tape and put it on the vinyl tube of my hydration pack, which hangs from the right strap. When I tuck it up into the left strap, I have a perfectly symmetrical reflective line across my chest.

I suppose if you don't mind wasting a whole lot of tape, or using a bunch of odd leftover scraps, you could lay the tape over the divots in your helmet and use a razor blade to cut out exactly the elliptical shape that's concave relative to the convex overall shape of your helmet. That would be cool to see. I don't have the guts yet.

The tapes can often be more reflective than the cheapo reflectors that come with your bike, so it's also not at all a bad idea to cover those surfaces as well.

Finally there' s the biggest amount of coverage you could possibly get, cover your frame. Or less extreme but definitely beyond the norm, buy fenders and cover those.

The Zinn books are a great hard copy reference, as well. I keep the Road and MTB editions in my garage near the tools. Great resources with excellent diagrams and descriptions.

• [Crank Brothers multi tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Bicycle-19-Function-Silver/dp/B0012Q41HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418363910&sr=8-1&keywords=crank+brothers+multi+tool)
  
  
• [Topeak saddlebag] (http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Aero-Wedge-Buckle-Medium/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364745&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+saddle+bag)
  
  
• [Cygolite Metro 400 Headlight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-400-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B00LXTOT6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364255&sr=8-1&keywords=cygolite+metro+400)
  
  
• [Cygolite Hotshot Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y)
  
  
• [CatEye Wireless Bike Computer] (http://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-CC-VT220W/dp/B004RE783W/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1418364327&sr=1-16&keywords=cateye)
  
  
• [Finish Line Chain Lube] (http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-4-Ounce-Squeeze/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting)
  
  
• [Genuine Innovations CO2 Inflator] (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2628-Ultraflate-Inflator/dp/B002AGI1QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420015344&sr=8-1&keywords=innovations+co2+inflator)
  
  If you're looking to up your riding game, everything listed above will save you from any trouble you have on the road. Cycling computer is always neat to have too!
  
  Cygolite Metro 400 and the Hotshot are brilliant. The lights definitely pack a strong punch. I'll tell you right now, unless the lighting in your town sucks ass or you go off road riding, the metro 400 is a great light and you don't really need to go much higher than that.
  

So at 6'3" its rather frustrating to keep seeing deals on bikes and then note that they are 55-58cm. I am trying to keep to advice that I have seen all over this subreddit that you should make sure it fits and that you don't buy the $300 bikes like the Giordano or GMC Denali. Why does the 5-8cm really matter? This past week I saw a post (I wish I could find it right now, I was the really nicely composed shot with unperceivable fill flash and ax for a kickstand) where his seat was jacked to the max, he said it does give him a aggressive riding position but that mostly he found it more comfortable. What are your words of wisedom O' Grand /r/bicycling?

Buy this book: Zinn & the Art of Mt. Bike Maintenance
Best mechanic guide out there. (Take it from me... I'm an ex-mechanic) There's a road bike one too, however much of it is applicable to all bike drive-trains.

One thing I would never skimp on is a quality saddle. Buy a slightly cheaper chain, shifters, whatever... but never settle on a saddle.

You should be able to get a road bike for £500-600. However, it will be entry level so a year or two into it's life (depending no how much you ride) there will be replacements. You could always get a rigid hybrid for the road too if you want to save some money. Here's an example Trek FX Hybrid line

Lights...One thing to know about lights. Unless you're spending $100 on a front light, they're meant so you're seen, not so you can see the road ahead. If you want to see the road, here's an example of what to get Niterider

One final note on a helmet. They all pass the same safety tests. The price increases due to other factors. Comfort of pads and straps, ventilation, etc.

Budget's too low to buy a quality lock. Just browsing Amazon.ca and the cheapest one I would recommend is this one.

There are some OnGuard ones too for less, but the reviews were mixed and some said that the locks freeze in the winter. You could check those out if you want but read the reviews because they do some sneaky things like making the U part thinner to save on weight (but it actually just makes it a easier lock to break).

You can't put road bike wheels on your mountain bike, but you can switch the tires out to something more like a road bike tire. These will be slicker, so you'll get a little more efficiency on the road, you can usually find them by searching for "hybrid tires".

I used these before, and they worked well for me.

started in portland, got a ride to the coast, then pretty much followed the book rest of way.

i also had the gpx file of ACA route and the pdf of brochure from oregon department of transportation that had a recommended route.

reading the book every morning/evening to get an idea of the route and points of interest was really nice.

Yeah it's a Kryptonite evolution mini, a good strong lock, that doesn't weight much (compared to say the very secure fahgettaboudit, although you will have to be a little bit more picky about where you lock it up to get it through your back wheel/frame/non-movable object.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AMPRG0/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=103612307&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004C94T84&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=15K44FMXMSFQEH9M6QNX

Hi /r/bicycling! It's summer time and I was wanting to buy a roadbike, and started looking online (Amazon and such), when I came across these two models: GMC Denali and the Takara Kabuto.

I was wondering which one would be a better bike to start off with if I have never owned a road bike before. I noticed that the Takara bike is single-speed while the GMC bike isn't (does it make much of a difference ride-wise?)

Any help would be appreciated.

I used to have Cateye's strada w/cadence which is a pretty good basic cyclocomputer. I eventually replaced it with a garmin 500 because I wanted more data, but it should probably be fine for your purposes (it's also pretty light and inexpensive as far as cyclocomputers go).

For summer/mixed road use I have some Michellin XCR Dry 26x2.0's on at the moment - they work well on dry trails and don't have ridiculous rolling resistance on the roads. I had a set of kenda small block 8's last year and they worked pretty well to, similar tyre really.

I used to have a old MTB which was my commuting bike and also my pub bike, the one I didn't mind leaving locked up in town of an evening, but then the inevitable happened and someone nicked it. Anyways, I had some kenda slicks on that - if all you're doing is road and maybe the occasional dry, flat trail then slicks are your best bet.

Agree, Pedro's are the best.

They even handle my Marathons easily.

For more comfortable, I would consider buying a rear fender. At least you won't get the mud trail up your back when you bike in the rain/slush.

For safer, I would buy yourself a high visibility vest, like this. Do you own a helmet? You should get one of those as well.

I've attached these to my frame and helmet, they've lasted through 2 heavy winters. I found a 1cm wide section wraps almost perfectly around most spokes and is visible from a good distance. If you're creative you can trace designs onto it and cut them out with an x-acto knife.

White 3M Tape

Red 3M Tape

What style fenders do people like? Is a front one ever necessary? Most of the splash is on my back. I was looking at this one (link) which seems pretty popular, but it's a funny shape.

Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:

An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.

I use one of these along with I really good CREE LED flash light and a Planet Bike Superflash tail light. I have the Planet Bike blaze, blaze 1watt, and blaze 2 watt headlights and find that they are just not bright enough for where I ride. (I ride on completely unlit roads). Although I do LOVE the mount on the Blaze headlights.

Nah, it was quite the opposite. I previously used some of the spray on lube, Tri-Flow, too much of it, and it attracted a bunch of grit that required a good degreasing to get rid of. I found it difficult to put the appropriate amount of lube on the chain with the aerosol spray can. After this eventful ride I used Brake Parts Cleaner to degrease the chain and components and the soapy water and a host to get the excess out. Once it was clean and dry I used Finish Line bike lube as directed and it's much better now.

I bought my first non-horrible bike today and I have a few questions:

This is the part of the post you will be most interested in

I found a second hand Specialized Vita Elite 2011 today for £250 which I'm hoping was a good deal. The tyres have been replaced with Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres which look to be brand new and they've added mudguards and a pannier rack. I think the derailer may have been replaced - it says Shinmara Deore on it now.

Everything looks to be in good condition, but I don't know anything so would it be worth taking it to a separate bike shop for an independent checkup? What are the less obvious signs of trouble I should be looking for?

I saw Specialized issued a recall including this model. Do I need to be worried about this?

How well is the bike going to handle being left outdoors? My landlord doesn't allow bikes to be stored inside so it is going to be in direct sun and rain. I don't really have anywhere else I can chain it.

What issues should I be checking for every time I go out to ride it? Every week/on a regular basis?

Are these any good?

Thanks in advance.

Cateyes are nice. I wouldn't get one with gps, it costs a bunch and doesn't give you much utility in return. I think it's nice to have a second sensor for cadence, if I were buying a new computer that would be one of my main criteria (I inherited a cateye without cadence, but I can approximate it from my speed since I ride fixed atm). Going wired will save you money and it's not hassle once it's installed. I'd say go for the Strada Cadence.

This stuff is the best:

http://www.amazon.com/Chamois-Buttr-8-Ounce-Skin-Lubricant/dp/B000HZGTUS

Also, if touring or riding all day, use a baby wipe to clean everything out down there if it is hot or you deuce then reapply the Chamois Buttr, or as my riding buddy says: the "Butt Lube."

After that it's just conditioning the sit-bones.

Rashes will make something that can be so fun, so miserable.

If you want to learn bike repair and you're flying solo, check out this book-- you can probably find an older edition for about five bucks on Half or at your friendly local used bookstore. It has tons of diagrams and explanations and I've found it extremely helpful for understanding how everything works!

Those all look like good bikes. For commuting you'll want to lock out the suspension and depending on the course you take, I suggest getting some slick tires like these. and keep them at the maximum recommended pressure if your course is all paved.

I ride this Giant Revel and I've put over 11,000 kilometers on it.

Thanks for the advice! check out the link!

series two for half the price and free shipping

Nothing wrong with the reflectors. But if you want something nicer looking, spoke sticks are a good candidate and are highly visible at night.

You should get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Two-Fish-Unlimited-Flashlite-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E

I use one and it works great, plus your light is easily removable if you park in a less-than-safe neighborhood.

I currently am looking into purchasing these pedals + cleats, can't say how good they are yet but they came highly recommended from several friends.

You didn't say what your budget is or what you'd consider a great deal but here is a good option

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SPD-SL-Road-Pedals-Black/dp/B000P9TOHQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1374857472&sr=1-5&keywords=shimano+105+pedal $40

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-apparel/2013-lake-cx200-shoes-37546.5.1.html $52

Second on the Cane creeks mentioned above. You definitely should consider bar end style TT ones too.

I have one cross style for the rear & two bar end style. ( Cane Creek 200 TT Time Trial Levers (Pair), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R7QCCbEW9CR37 )

Have fun!

I use this Kryptonite lock in SF, but 75% of the time I don't have the cable with me. I do have security skewers though. The lock is smaller but will secure the back wheel to parking meters and leaves minimal space.

Bike Shorts with a Shammy and a tube of Chamious Cream. Properly adjusted seat and just getting used to it again.

Chamois Cream - https://www.amazon.com/Chamois-Buttr-Original-8oz-tube/dp/B000HZGTUS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469736624&sr=8-1&keywords=chamois+cream+cycling

Bike Shorts - https://www.amazon.com/SANTIC-Cycling-Shorts-Bicycle-COOLMAX/dp/B013RB09B8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1469736650&sr=8-4&keywords=Bike+shorts

that will be a VERY large quality of life improvement.

Speed will come but what i started out doing and do now is i'll do what are refered to as Intervals (Fast riding for a set time) Slow riding for a set time. I do intervals through the week as not a lot of time but on Saturday I do a nice long 30+ mile ride and try to average 12 to 14 mph (started as try to maintain a 10 mph average). Sunday and Wednesday are my rest days, although i've recently started riding on Wednesday nights just for a short jaunt around town.

If you want to do something crafty with your daughter, you could try to cut some of this 3m reflective tape into interesting shapes: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlite-Reflective-Silver-36-Inch/dp/B000BQRIV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452464185&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+reflective+tape. My experience with that tape is that it is very reflective, but you'll want to replace it after a couple years.

If you want something reflective on the spokes, these work pretty well: http://www.amazon.com/Lightweights-Power-Reflectors-Wheels-86-Piece/dp/B002KYFWQ6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452464201&sr=8-4&keywords=reflective+bicycle+spoke

Also, Vespertine makes some reflective flower pins and such. My wife has one, so I can tell you they are definately very reflective, but they are kind of silly expensive: http://shop.vespertinenyc.com/category/jewelry. I'm not sure exactly where I can just get a sheet of whatever they are made of to make my own stuff.

nice!

try out these. look much better and are way more visible

https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

Shimano 105 pedals through Amazon are $63 at the moment, this is what I ride with and love them.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-5700-Road-Pedals-Black/dp/B00428B1FO/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1333752940&sr=1-5

I have this computer, and really enjoy it. I find it to be reasonably priced, but if you would like a wireless computer, there is also this option.

I ride with these and I absolutely love them. They do everything I want them too. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9TOHQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm a new road cyclist (less than 250 miles total so far) and I'm looking for some advice about clipless pedals. I currently have the Shimano SPD-SL PD-R540, and even at the lightest setting I find that unclipping is a little difficult. I've already had one fall and a couple near misses where I've been able to unclip in time at the last moment.

After my fall, my confidence is a bit shaken. So I'm wondering if I should stick with these and try to master the mechanics, or if other pedal options like SPD or another manufacturer are inherently "easier" to unclip from?


edit: Most of my rides so far have been between 10-30 miles each on either a dedicated bike path or neighborhood streets.

These are the pedals I have recently purchase.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9TOHQ/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So far so good, have not rode too much in them just yet (20 miles) but I am enjoying them as of to date.

Yea. This is what I recommend also. I have a $10 mini flashlight with a rechargeable enloop batteries. I also use the the 2fish velcro gasket w/o problemos. So much cheaper and brighter than specific "bike lights"which are amazingly overpriced IMHO.
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Handheld-Flashlight-Adjustable-Resistant/dp/B00R5VM3FM/ref=lp_12023816011_1_1?srs=12023816011&ie=UTF8&qid=1522192376&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CJXB5E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You don't need to spend $80 on some USB chargable fancy BS.

> I've pulled all my reflectors off my bike, as they're ineffective pieces of crap.

The ones to the front and back are too small to be of much use, but spoke reflectors are the shit.

Talking about these: Link and Demo

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK9VQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is what i have, for when you do get a better lock i recommend that

Also, pick up one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Chamois-Buttr-Original-8oz-tube/dp/B000HZGTUS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450021954&sr=8-1&keywords=butt+chamois

it feels great! specially if you sweat and it gets in your private area.

It is a Topeak bag.

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Aero-Wedge-Buckle-Medium/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311554159&sr=8-1

Really great bag. Had it for a few years now.

I would recommend a bag like this for medium to long rides. It's enough room for a tube, multi tool, wallet, phone, snack etc. They make different sizes too if you want something smaller or larger.

I noticed what I would consider a flair up today. I was on the rowing machine at the gym and started feeling stiffness.

I using http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-5700-Road-Pedals-Black/dp/B00428B1FO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346269001&sr=8-1&keywords=shimano+105+pedals

Good to know about the mixing of medicine. I am a regular Ibuprofen user but the naproxen seemed to work extremely well.

I have the twofish flashlight holder, cheap but effective flashlight mount.

I use Zinn & The Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance. It's great too, and focuses on, ummm... mountain bikes.

Get one with a cadence function. I have this one and its been great, Cateye Strada Cadence wired.

>Is there a specific type or brand that you know of? And where would I get this, a bike shop?

If it's a little, use clear coat nail polish, if it's a bit more... maybe spray can from like walmart. I'm not 100% on this.

>The lever feels normal when I brake, I just feel like the actually brake pads aren't gripping the wheel well so it's kind of slipping.

The pads are cheap <$10, but take in your old ones to the store so they can match it up right.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010XTIB8/ref=oh_details_o05_s02_i00

THis is the lock I use... I bought it a few months ago when it wasl ike $35.... u lock for the frame and backwheel + cable for the front wheel.

The Finn is a simple, compact, reliable phone holder.

The Fenix or any of a number of similar mounts can affix a small handheld flashlight to your bars or helmet. You have to take care with helmet mounts, because the extremely intense lights available can be blinding to drivers when you turn your head in their direction.

On the x-posted thread someone was asking about gear load out... so thought I'd put it here as well..

In the saddle under the seat:

1. 20 dollar bill (to use as cash, not to fix a puncture :))
   
2. A crank brothers 19-piece multi-tool
   
   
3. A spare tube (700x25c)
   
4. Rema Tip Top Touring (TT 02) patch kit
   
5. Pedro's tire levers x 2
   
6. Home Made Medical Kit (antibiotic ointment, bandages, alcoholic wipes, gauze pads, a knife, ibuprofen/pain killer)
   
7. Zip ties (x4) for any kinda MacGuyver repairs :)
   
   In the snack bag on the top tube:
   
   
8. 2 Snack bars (Kind/Clif usually)
   
9. Some salt pills (if it's too hot and I'm sweating like nuts I'll take 1 per hour)
   
10. My wallet
    
11. My keys
    
    On my person:
    
    
12. Just the bike gear that I'm wearing
    
13. a RoadID incase of emergencies or a crash
    
    
    As for clothes at work, I have a locker so stock up once a week on them.. and also keep toiletries at work. HTH!

Get a flashlight mount, maybe this one will work

http://www.amazon.com/Two-Fish-Unlimited-Flashlite-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1349049136&sr=8-4&keywords=flashlight+mount+bike

then just find the brightest flashlight within your budget, really

You can get this bike for $159 with free shipping. The only catch is you have to assemble it yourself. I bought one of these GMC bikes (though not this exact model) from Amazon 6 years ago and am still riding it a couple days a week. It probably took me 2 hours to put the bike together, and required tons of internet searches so that I could adjust the brakes properly. However, it isn't rocket science. If you can put together an IKEA cabinet, you can assemble a bike.

This one is the minimum kryptonite I recommend to people in NYC. Even that I think is a little weak if you're going to be locking up all day during work/school or whatever. For all day or overnight, I usually recommend the Krypto Evolution Mini and a wheel locking system like Pinheads.

I use this stuff from time to time, but I have found that A&D Ointment (it's for diaper rash) works just as good and is cheaper.

Even then, do it a couple of times in a month... And your butt adjusts. Also... I butter the butt when going over ~40-50. Makes a huge difference. Butt feels like it was ridden on 40 miles at 80.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HZGTUS/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_AwaNDbNT6ARRJ

You need a better lock, buy a ulock something like this. Might seem a bit expensive now, but it's much better then coming back to a missing bike.

Why bother removing them? They don't hurt anything, and may improve visibility at night. When you combine them correctly with something like this over 1/3 of the spokes, they provide a sense of motion and immediate recognition of a bicycle to motorists.

You know, I want to hate it so much, but the hilarious Amazon reviews make its existence 100% worth it.

http://www.amazon.com/VISP-A01-Fashion-Bicycle-Mechanical-Brakes/dp/B00RQNRTUS

VISP is getting much better with their Amazon bikes.

Fixed your link

I hope I didn't jump the gun, but you got your link syntax backward! Don't worry bro, I fixed it, have an upvote!

• this one
  
  
  
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I've ridden parts of it. Don't feel like you have to reserve campsites ahead of time. There's a book called Bicycling the Pacific Coast (https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Complete-Canada/dp/0898869544) which is an amazing resource.

Pick up some spoke reflectors. Adds an unbelievable amount of visibility, and even non-cyclists think it makes my wheels look cooler.

Something like this.

Trim if you must, but not too short or you'll itch.

For soreness, check your bike fit and seat height/position.

For longer rides, use a butt balm such as this one.

For the sake of not creating a new thread, is there a major difference between the Shimano PD-R540 SPD-SL and Shimano 105 PD-570 pedals?

The only difference between the R540s and 105s that I can see is a $23.09 increase, 5º vs 6º float, and if I'm not mistaken, 330g vs 322g. The weight difference really surprises me, because if that's the case, I'd shoot for the R540s as a first pair of clipless.

Cost effective alternative:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-03456C-Scotchlite-Reflective-36-Inch/dp/B000BQRIV2/

Ok so need a little help deciding between these two tires. I may make this its own post if no one sees it.

http://www.amazon.com/Panaracer-Pasela-Tire-1-75-Wire/dp/B000650ZXG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1347749035&sr=8-3&keywords=panaracer+pasela+26

http://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Bicycle-Blackwall-26-Inch-1-95-Inch/dp/B002DX1DWG/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1347742956&sr=1-1&keywords=kenda+838

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CXNY3G/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&redirect=true

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CJXB5E/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJ45L6/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BZOMYM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KBEH1W/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00

ride safe

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch/dp/B005YPK9VQ/

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Pitbull-U-Lock-4-Inch-9-06-Inch/dp/B005YPKBWI/

Both are good locks.

This guy gets it! If you read the review section of this bad boy, you can see that weight does not apply to these beautiful aero beasts. Someone reliably reports stealing 188 KOMS on one as well as getting a speeding ticket from the local police. Try doing that on a ḈḗṛṽḝḮṏ!

Those should be sweet, though obviously with slicks you'll want to take it more cautiously if riding offroad with turning and braking, especially if it's not a harder surface. But as long as it's not muddy or loose sand/dirt you should still have a decent amount of grip from a 2" tire.

Get a pair of tire levers so you can get your old tires off and the new ones on, get a spare inner tube or two as well in case you get a puncture, and a decent pump with a gauge if you don't have one already as it's important to pump the tires up to the correct pressure, running them too soft means punctures are far more likely and the bike can handle badly in corners and need more effort to pedal along.

Those are mountain bike pedals. Something more like these

These were awesome for my flop n chop bullhorns.

One I mentioned, the Strada Cadence would be a good choice if you don't mind wires. There is a wireless version for nearly double the price (which is BS if you ask me, but wireless is damn good to have).

Here is Bontrager's wired w/cadence and wireless (which does not include sensor).

Would this be an ok cheap one?

i used a kryptonite evolution lock. it's small, so i keep a cable coiled around my seat post for when i can't find anything thin enough to lock my bike to.
i like it: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-U-Lock-x-5-5/dp/B000AMPRG0/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1247979749&sr=8-10

noob here, so I can use wd-40 to clean the chain, then dry it with my air compressor then lube it up with this stuff?

Finish Line DRY Teflon Bicycle Chain Lube, 4-Ounce Drip Squeeze Bottle
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IDZXRM/ref=oss_product

Okay, follow up question. Given the choice between wireless and a cadence sensor, which would you chose?

The choice is not purely academic. Apparently you can get one or the other at the higher end of my price range.

Reflective tape is easily available if you can use that: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlite-Reflective-Silver-36-Inch/dp/B000BQRIV2

I use this (the medium one) for my stuff. Easily carries a flat repair kit, wrench, small pump, multitool, handkercheif, $20, and my front light when it's not on my bike. Plus, my rear light clips onto that little loop on the front.

Well this book has the route planned out. We stopped at most of the places it recommended http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Complete-Canada/dp/0898869544/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324037901&sr=8-1

And these maps were invaluable http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes/pacificcoast.cfm probably used them more than we used the book. If you want more detail I can dig out my journal and tell you exactly what we did.

What's the price difference? The 105's are $58 on amazon right now. How much cheaper are the entry level ones you are looking at?

Getting some clip-on fenders could help a lot. I put this and this on my cross bike and my feet still get soaked but the face splash and back stripe are gone.

Agreed. I have been using these spoke reflectors:
https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

If you have silver spokes they are almost invisible.

Massive cost?

Body glide is something like $9 a tube, and that shit will last you several months. I use it when I run, and its great.

http://www.amazon.com/BodyGlide-BGCB-Bodyglide-Original-Anti-Chafe/dp/B005L8YVRO

As for cycling Chamois Butt'r is maybe $15 a tube on the high end, but again it will last you a few months if you use it in moderation.

http://www.amazon.com/Chamois-Buttr-8-Ounce-Skin-Lubricant/dp/B000HZGTUS

The upper half that I would use when my hands are on the straight but I've just decided to replace the handlebars and levers with new trial-esque setup.

Bars (Actually going black): http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-BullHorn-Handlebar-40cm-Blue/dp/B002I7PRTM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&coliid=I18KYNBPDA5LPS&colid=1JHQW4V0BH9PP

Levers: http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2TEPMUJD55N9Z&colid=1JHQW4V0BH9PP

Tape: http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Supercork-Bicycle-Bar-Tape/dp/B00142FFDA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&coliid=I3MX9WOPKPQ0BU&colid=1JHQW4V0BH9PP

I certainly wasn't looking for anything exotic, just a Cane Creek, but they didn't have any TT brake levers in stock, and in a store full of TT bikes it seemed like kind of a silly thing to not carry... my "surly mechanics" still got the job & a six-pack of beer while I waited a few weeks for parts, because I got the bike there & I wanted to give them my business.

Topeak saddle bag. I just bought one for my mountain bike and it fits: my keys, multitool, tube, tire levers, CO2 canister, and still a little bit of room to spare. I had a fall the other day, the first ride with my saddle bag, and I thankfully was able to readjust my handlebars with my multitool.

There's a larger option too, but I don't think you'll need it.

I bought this off amazon a few months ago:
http://www.amazon.com/GMC-Denali-Medium-Frame-Yellow/dp/B002GNWPK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330843200&sr=8-1

1. You have to put most of it together yourself, and the stuff that comes pre-assembled is done poorly (so you have to google how to adjust both your derailleurs).
   
   
2. The stickers are ugly but they're attached with the most ungodly glue ever designed by man. I wasted several hours of my life trying everything I had (Goo-gone, goof-off, etc) until it finally succumbed to elbow grease and the spray isopropyl alcohol I use for cleaning circuit boards.
   
   
3. It's 10lbs heavier than most bikes, which means you have to work considerably harder.
   
   Maybe if I'm still riding in a year I'll spend money on a nice bike, but until then I really like this cheapie.

I had the same problem until someone told me to use the "dry" oil lubricant and not the "wet" oil lubricant. The "wet" stuff is very sticky (any dirt will stick to it) and I was told is better for mountain bikes that you need to keep working even when covered in mud and gunk. The "dry" stuff is less sticky, less viscous and better suited to road bikes. My chain and cassette is always shiny now.

I've seen these before on amazon and ebay. Just a very very very bad bike. Weigh a ton and use the cheapest components.

For fun you can read the satirical reviews for one on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RQNRTUS

I just found this abomination on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/21-700C-Road-Bicycle-Bike-Racing-Shimano-21-Speed-53cm-Steel-Dual-Disc-Brakes-/222507236867?var=&epid=815668216&hash=item33ce76fe03:m:mujuo3WtQBjvajs6209ZpGQ

this book lays out exactly which state parks have hiker/biker sites, where on the coast they are, and what other amenities there are.

I'll be doing this very trip next month.

*handlebar high five*

I plan on using this book : Bicycling The Pacific Coast

Apply this to your bicycle liberally.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlite-Reflective-Silver-36-Inch/dp/B000BQRIV2

It's the 3M Scotchlite tape. 2" wide. I think I found it at my local Fred Meyer or Walmart. I've been sitting on this stuff for some time.

Or you could just order it from Amazon

A saddle bag for 12$
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=gbps_img_m-2_cf04_7bcb82d3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=39cfb27c-9112-44c5-bea3-1a73e8a2cf04&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=14795753011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=13ABAGTWADT9HB075TE5

Pedros Tire Levers

any thoughts on these?

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SPD-SL-Road-Pedals-Black/dp/B000P9TOHQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1369668670&sr=1-2&keywords=shimano+spd

I use a Cateye Strada Cadence. It's wired but it's reliable for the price.

its the SKS mudguard: https://www.amazon.com/X-Tra-Rear-Bicycle-Fender-wheels/dp/B000X61N2A/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1486680251&sr=1-1&keywords=SKS+rear+mudguard

I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS

Since you're not using the hoods on the brakes anyways, why not get bar-end TT brakes?

So this would be appropriate I assume?

I was checking out some customer reviews on Amazon and they said the lock gets jammed, just wondering what's your experience with that?

This is the lock and chain I use on my surly cx, should I upgrade to the forgetaboutit? http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-U-Lock/dp/B0010XTIB8/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1309897259&sr=1-1

You could go for these tires to get a bit of that road bike speed again. I haven't tried it myself, but I plan on putting it on my Electric MTB which I use to get to college.

Wally meaning Wal-Mart, despite having gotten my GMC Denali from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/GMC-Denali-Medium-Frame-Yellow/dp/B002GNWPK2

If you have somewhere to be this will get you there for under $200.

mine is a little shorter and thicker and hasn't let me down yet(also nyc)
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_15?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373928708&sr=1-15&keywords=bike+lock

I'd buy this one instead.

I've personally been using that lock for the past year or so when I lock my bike at the train station.

edit: Fixed backward link syntax.

http://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Reflector-36-Scotchlite-Reflective/dp/B00DNG8DSY

Non-mobile: Machete

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

This is the VTSP "High Fashion Red" model in case anyone wants to add it to a wishlist... www.amazon.com/dp/B00RQNRTUS/

Maybe they were going for the Machete look? It's got rave reviews.

I like my Kryptonite Mini with a cable to lock up the front wheel. Also, once I got everything dialed in and I knew I wouldnt be making anymore adjustments, I superglued a bb into all the hex key heads so people couldnt steal my saddle and other bits. Its a bit of a pain to dig the glue out to repair stuff but at least I know my bike and bits will be waiting for me when I return.

Don't mess with all the hybrid stuff.
I have a pair of Shimano 105s which I use around town with normal shoes with no issue. The platform is big enough to use on daily commutes around town. Plus you get to have a road pedal for the weekend rides!

I use cane creek TT200 with cantilevers and have no issues

The question really isn't just "how expensive is my bike" so much as "how risky is my city and (just as important) how risky are the places in my city I lock my bike?"

And it's not really "what's a good price point" so much as "what is the hardest, smallest, and thickest lock which can hold my bike to the racks I use while being light enough that I'll actually carry is.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Mini-Bike-U-Lock/dp/B000AMPRG0

is an outstanding value, and comes with or without a cable to give additional locking options. That line also comes in a variety of lengths. Longer are easier to use and give more options, but shorter ulocks are more resistant to many common attacks.

The NY versions are unarguably more theft resistant, but do you need them? Some do.

First, find the tire pressure. This is almost certainly the cause of your issue if you haven't checked it recently.

Also, the pressure range on mountain bike tires is wide, because riders tend to ride low-pressure off-road, and high pressure on road.

One more thing, big knobbly tires will seriously affect your rolling resistance, so if you do decide to change out your tires, you should take a look at some "slicks" -

e.g.: kenda k838

I was thinking about getting something like this to ride my trek wahoo around town.

I've been using these all summer with no problem.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DX1DWG/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00

It's kind of hard to see, but they are slightly triangular so only about 1" contacts the road.

After reading all of the bike stealing threads, bike stolen videos etc. I purchased:
This
and this
and this

I think I'll be good.

I second Sheldon Brown's locking strategy. I have a Kryptonite Evolution Mini which I got from a company through Amazon (cheaper than in stores). U-locks are most commonly defeated with a jack (like a car jack) but this is small enough that there won't be left over space to fit a jack in.

I use the Sheldon Brown method as described in another comment. This is perfect for parking meters and street signs in an urban area.

Also, don't buy a super expensive bike = less to worry about. And, don't park it in the same place for a long while (friend's bike got stolen because he left it on campus for 3 days) or same place every day on the street (e.g. if you commute) as the experienced thieves will look for targets.

P.S. What city are you in?

A few weeks ago I got one of those fenders that clips onto the seat post. It's ugly as sin, but damn if it doesn't work like a charm. That would actually be a good motto for cycling in general: "Yeah it's ugly, but damn if it doesn't work."

Avoid a good deal of the Amazon bikes as well if they're not from well known companies.

I saw some poor kid at a college once who bought a Cyrusher road bike after reading all of the hype reviews. Crappy, heavy frame, garbage components (including these totally wonky stem shifters), gaudy. The bikes sell for entry level road bike prices, but you get what is essentially Walmart tier bikes.

Avoid any bike named after a car manufacturer (GMC Denali is the one most commonly seen). Same thing for bikes named after beer or drink manufacturers.

On a related note, some guy kept trying to sell a Snapple-branded MTB for what felt like years. Lousy rear suspension, no name front fork, plus he ripped the wheel cover on the back wheel. That's not really a "brand" so much as just a hopeless idiot trying to make a buck on garbage.

Murray hasn't been manufactured in at least ten years, and their stuff was always low quality.