Top products from r/bookbinding
We found 28 product mentions on r/bookbinding. We ranked the 72 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Non-Adhesive Binding: 1
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Used Book in Good Condition
2. HeatnBond UltraHold Iron-On Adhesive Value Pack, 17 Inches x 5 Yards
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Ultrahold’s no-sew bond is stronger than traditional fusible websSolid sheet adhesive on paper backing provides edge to edge coverage without puckering or bunchingFor use on fabric, but can be used with a wide range of materials such as foil, lame, felt , suede, cardboard, leather and woodNo Sewin...
3. Books by Hand pH Neutral PVA Adhesive, 8oz (BBHM217)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Ph neutral acid freeWill not become brittle over timeIt is Reversible
4. Amzdeal Heavy Duty Manual Guillotine Paper Cutter Trimmer Machine (17inch -A3)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
All heavy duty steel baseEasy control cutting handle barClamp wheel for better holding the thick papersRuler in inches and clear embossed grid for precise cuttingAdjustable backstop with lock for holding paper well
5. Bookbinding: Its Background and Technique (Two Volumes Bound as One) (v. 1 & 2)
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
6. Barcelona Tiles: Gift & Creative Paper Book Vol.36 (Multilingual Edition) (Gift Wrapping Paper Book)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Used Book in Good Condition
7. Hand Bookbinding: A Manual of Instruction
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
8. Hammermill Premium Laser Print 24lb Copy Paper, 8.5x11, 1 Ream, 500 Sheets, Made in USA, Sustainably Sourced From American Family Tree Farms, 98 Bright, Acid Free, Premium Laser Printer Paper, 104604R
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
MADE IN USA - Hammermill copying and printing paper is 100% made in the USA, helping to support 2.4 million sustainable forestry jobs in America, including family tree farmers. Hammermill is more than just paper. See images.RENEWABLE RESOURCE - Did you know you are helping to replant forests when yo...
9. Speedball 10210 10210 Mona Lisa 2-Ounce Metal Leaf Adhesive Size
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Ideal for most metal leaf projectsWater based brush-on sizing specially formulated for metal leafStays tacky up to 48-hourCleans up with soap and waterMade in USA
10. Bookbinding: The Classic Arts and Crafts Manual
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 1
11. Shop Fox D3221 Super Press Clamp
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Heavy cast iron construction6-by-18-inch capacityCan be bolted to bench or stand
12. Shop Fox D2893 Press Clamp,As the picture shown,Medium
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
Overall length is 11-1/2-Inch
13. HP Paper Printer Paper 8.5x11 Premium 32 lb 1 Ream 500 Sheets 100 Bright Made in USA FSC Certified Copy Paper Compatible 113100R, White
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Made in USA - HP Papers is sourced from renewable forest resources and has achieved production with 0% deforestation in North America. See images.Optimized for HP technology - All HP Papers provide premium performance on HP equipment, as well as on all other printer and copier equipment. 100% satisf...
14. The Thames and Hudson Manual of Book Binding (Thames and Hudson Manuals) (Thames and Hudson Manuals (Paperback))
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
15. Woodworking Wisdom & Know-How: Everything You Need to Know to Design, Build, and Create
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
16. Drawing Ideas: A Hand-Drawn Approach for Better Design
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Watson-Guptill Publications
17. Non-Adhesive Binding, Vol. 1: Books without Paste or Glue
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Used Book in Good Condition
18. Hot Foil Stamping Manual Handheld Leather Printer Embossers Branding Embossing Tool(US Plug)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
【handle different material】It is the ideal equipment for leather, shoe making, gilding, indentation and wood branding.【wide applications】Applicable to leather products, rubber products, process products, plastic products, paper, used for the surface of hot stamping, indentation, branding.【...
This, in the absence of an on-line edition of Edith Diehl's seminal work "Bookbinding: Its Background and Technique", is an excellent survey of the state of traditional binding as it stood ca 1910, in the US, France, and the UK.
Some of the techniques may no longer be advised, but this is a decent free, readable, illustrated introduction to hand bookbinding, if somewhat oversimplified.
I wince at the sawing of the backs, but it was common then, and certainly common now... And the book is no guarantee of success, given that there's no replacement for instruction and practice under the direction of someone who knows what they are doing. But it's still a good overview.
Even Edith Diehl, who does go into many subtleties, glosses over things. This just glosses a bit more. Still, it's a good start-to-finish overview.
EDIT: formatting
If you can find some nice, thin leather (2mm thick at most), that might be a great gift!
I'm a hobbyist bookbinder and I just got given a really beautiful book of paper. It's one of the most thoughtful gifts I've had in a really long time! It's a book full of high quality gift paper that you can pull out that's perfect for making book covers or inlay sheets.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/BARCELONA-TILES-creative-Vol-36-Wrapping/dp/9460090486
Check the links in the side panel. Some good resources there. Other than that I can recommend some good text books but nothing will ever compare to a course.
There is a lot of stuff that is extremely difficult to describe but simple to demonstrate. Look for local bookbinders guilds or society courses. Not sure where you live so can't recommend any.
Unfortunately I haven't found any youtube stuff that really demonstrates everything you will need to know. There are some good tutorials on specific bits but none overall.
As far as books go I highly recommend https://www.amazon.com/Thames-Hudson-Binding-Manuals-Paperback/dp/0500680116
I got a copy for $10au on ebay. Fantastic information on all types of binding and the skills required. I would suggest starting with a cloth bound case binding and working up from there.
Good luck
Coptics are super popular for one reason: They lay flat. A lot of folks love this for sketchbooks. I hate them though. Too much play in the spine means it wiggles a lot and just doesn't feel right to me.
The spine is not going to be too much more worn than any other structure. Paper and linen thread are actually really strong. Like I said, Coptics are favored for sketchbooks, which means they survive being thrown into bags and stand up to a lot of abuse.
There are literally hundreds of different types of bindings. Coptics are actually on of the oldest types of a codex binding, being developed in Africa in the 2nd century CE. Some use only thread to hold the book together and are called non-adhesive bindings. Others use only glue and are called adhesive bindings. Some use both thread and glue. "Regular binding", that you mention is not the name of any binding I'm familiar with. Is that a link stitch? Sewing all along on tapes or cords? Book binding has been around for literally thousands of years, so there are a lot of different structures.
Each binding has it's own advantages and disadvantages, and which one to use on which book depends on size, type of paper used to print on, and desired look and functionality. I went to school for two years to learn all this stuff and to practice a ton of different structures. If you're looking for something to get you started when it comes to traditional Western bookbinding, check out Laura Young's Book or Edith Diehl's. They explain a lot of structures pretty well and are something every binder should read.
I'm also in northeast Oklahoma, and I just buy my PVA off Amazon. It's pretty cheap considering it goes a long way.
If you need somewhere local, I've had good results with helmars acid free glue, found at hobby lobby. It's way more expensive than the stuff I get off Amazon though, so if you're going to be using a lot of it and want to save money, I'd suggest getting PVA from Amazon.
Hobby lobby and Amazon links below:
http://www.hobbylobby.com/Scrapbook-Paper-Crafts/Glues-Adhesives/Liquid/4-23-Ounce-Acid-Free-Glue/p/26973
https://www.amazon.com/Books-Hand-Neutral-PVA-Adhesive/dp/B0025TZ26Q
You definitely can! It can go a bit warped from the glue though, as it has no protective backing. If you are really attached to a specific pattern, try an iron on adhesive- you can buy them cheap on amazon. Not entirely sure what its designed to be used for but it will add a bit of protection to your cloth, and makes a pretty good, cheap, bookcloth. I’ve tried it and it works well :) I’ve linked one I used, but any should work. I think there’s probably YouTube tutorials that use this method you could look up
adhesive backing
I got the border and the sun on the front cover from this book, the peacock on the front and the fairy on the back I found on Pinterest (currently the board that I have them pinned to is private, so I can't share the links, but I think I searched for coloring pages).
I traced them onto tracing paper, then turned the paper over and used a soft lead pencil to trace the design (backwards) on the back of the paper. Then I placed the tracing paper, soft lead side down on the brown craft paper for the cover, and went over the design again with a regular pencil, which transferred the soft lead from the back of the tracing paper to the craft paper. Then I went over it (again.....) with a pen or marker depending on how thick I wanted the lines. There are ways I probably could have skipped a step - like if I didn't mind having the design "backwards", or of I had the ability to print the designs mirrored (or directly onto the craft paper) I could have just started by tracing with the soft lead pencil and saved myself a tracing.
Once it was drawn, I crumpled the paper a couple of times, rubbed over it with the side of a brown crayon, then ironed it - it almost came out to be too small to fit - the crumpling shrunk it a lot more than I thought it would (half an inch of both length and width).
Here's a fairly simple walkthrough of the process I've watched before on Youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AF4t4nktOwc
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There are some non-obvious tips here, especially regarding temperature:
http://cool.conservation-us.org/don/dt/dt0366.html
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But if the goal is simply to work with stamps and impress designs, it's a matter of planning out your design on paper, building up a good collection of stamps. For example, in this video he uses only five stamps and a fillet (the rolling tool which creates a line).
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https://www.adelaide.edu.au/library/special/exhibitions/cover-to-cover/hand-tooling/
This website is also a good introduction to the art.
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https://www.amazon.com/Bookbinding-Classic-Arts-Crafts-Manual/dp/0486440397
This book has a fair amount of instruction.
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I'd say that this is something that with a few stamps and a stove, the only real issue is practice.
2x A3 and 1x A4 sketchbooks of the good sketches from 2 uni projects, covers are card with a printed front and coloured end page, hinged at the spine so they open up nicely.
I followed a tutorial in this book which is great for anyone who draws/ designs/ creates stuff.
It looks to me a bit more like cloth than paper, but either way, you can see the design wraps around the edges of the book, so the design is on whatever the wrapped their cover boards in. I can't tall you whether this was custom made or commercially bought, but it wouldn't be too hard to make something similar yourself:
Alternatively, you could just get paint in the metallic color you like and stripe it on yourself. These lines don't look perfectly uniform, so i wouldn't be surprised if someone just took 15 minutes to paint it all on by hand with a paintbrush.
I'm in the UK but I've got one similar to http://www.amazon.com/Amzdeal-Guillotine-Capacity-Commercial-Photocopy/dp/B00BQGK1FQ?ie=UTF8&keywords=A3%20Guillotine&qid=1464348535&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4
I've used it to cut 3mm millboard with some success (it cuts cross grain beautifully but along the grain needs some packing underneath and careful clamping)
I had to adjust the clamp on mine after arrival as it was causing the stack of paper to shift when cutting and end up being undercut, it's a 5 min fix though.
Check out Sea Lemon's videos on YouTube. And [this book](hand bookbinding: A Manual of Instruction https://www.amazon.com/dp/048629157X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vQyWCbR9YZAKD) can be a useful starting reference.
Enjoy the ride down the rabbit hole of bookbinding!
The book(s) itself is not particularly valuable. They are simply huge tomes of reference material.
This is one of the books in question:
Woodworking Wisdom
B&N
Amazon
I have a few different big tomes like this on different topics. The pages are almost like that which newspapers are printed on, so thin and easily absorbs oil from the fingers. I am hoping to keep them relatively protected so they do not get damaged as quickly and I can enjoy them for as long as possible.
I was trying to link pictures but Imgur doesn't seem to want to let me register at the moment. Dx
I hope this helps. Let me know if I can provide any other information.
When you say hole placement - are you talking about the holes in the sections (textblock)? The cover has slits rather than holes: I'm basing it off the design in Keith Smith's book Books without paste or glue.
> with practice you'll find a way that works for you.
I like hearing that. :)
You can also try HP 32 lb paper.
I've made at least one notebook with it and it works great with fountain pens!
Not sure what level bookbinder your partner is, but all bookbinding books by Keith Smith are stellar: Books without Paste or Glue https://www.amazon.com/dp/0963768263/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W2.yzb5HWAXSB :)
I just bought some 24 lb Hammermill HAM104604 (Amazon link), which I'm liking so far. I picked it in part because some reviews recommended it for making books.
Ah, yeah. I'm in America, so can't help you there. The best advice I can give for board is just to look in craft stores that have a paper craft section for scrapbooking, etc. Scrapbooking tends to overlap a lot with what we do so I find my best supplies in that section.
As for glue, you want a pH neutral PVA. This you might have to order online. There are some big craft stores that carry it, but only if they have an actual bookbinding section, this glue isn't really used in scrapbooking. "PVA" confused me at first, b/c PVA is actually an entire category of glues that includes Elmer's etc, but you'll know it when you find it- the bottle actually says on the label PVA. Here's an example.
Check out Keith Smith's book - Non-Adhesive Binding, Vol.1: Books without Paste or Glue. His book has a variety of different types of book bindings that don't use glue.
Good luck!
Here's the book that I'm wanting to re-bind: https://www.amazon.com/American-Pageant-History-People-AP/dp/0547166621
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I'd want to keep as much of the original cover as possible.
Enjoy!
There's also this (which is hilariously expensive on the UK site), but maybe you could find something similar locally; then you just need a base board and a press board, and it'd be really heavy-duty.
Here is the mobile version of your link
I am looking at this handheld:
Hot Foil Stamping Manual Handheld Leather Printer Embossers Branding Embossing Tool(US Plug) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M91R8CD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yCqVCbGTYGM8H
If you're worried, you can back the fabric with iron on adhesive and then some tissue paper. Most of us use this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XAMYXI/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I24DP443KMAQ2M&colid=2SXL9ZCVJAB5E