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Yes but I also picked up a Harmony hub when they were on sale. The whole thing is nice and simple. One remote, one button press to change to different activities. That said I believe this one also supports auto switching.

Switcher: 4K HDMI 2.0 Switch 5x1, ROOFULL 5... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0797MCCR6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

30 ft cable: Silverback S6 4k HDMI Cable 30 ft... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEDCNZ8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

With this setup your going to want the best cables to go from devices to the switcher you can get or you won't get 4k. I used the cables Comcast supplied, which are 18gbps, but some older ones I had that are 18 gbps didn't work right. So if you can get something shielded that is of good quality. Also the shorter the cable to the TV the better. Honestly I'm shocked 30 ft worked - that's probably why my other cables need to be so good. I've got an Xbox one, Apple TV 4k, and a 4k Comcast box plugged in. Both 4k devices test out properly and give me full 4k. I had an error once from the Apple TV about HDMI stability but that was on the lower quality patch cable I talked about earlier, and I haven't seen it since.

VonHaus 23-56" Double Arm Tilt & Swivel TV Wall Mount Bracket with Built-In Spirit Level for LED, LCD, 3D, Curved, Plasma, Flat Screen Televisions - Super Strong 45kg Weight Capacity https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00N50Q66Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CXZ7BbXA92YME

I'm using a cheap Logitech wireless keyboard that has a track pad. You have to plug in a USB module into your TV that came with the keyboard but it works great and batteries last forever. I have a 2015 XBR55X850C Bravia.

Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 with Built-In Multi-Touch Touchpad, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IHoEzb5PA9B9Z

I don't think so (correct me if I' wrong). I find this feature is quite useful and IMHO it should be available in these high level TVs. Fortunately there are some external decives which can be connected through the spdif output and allows you to connect two bluetooth headsets. For instance this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07JJCZ3WL/

Note: I've not tried this specific one :)

Yeah on our old TV we couldn't get any good reflection from anywhere it seemed like. We moved into a new house that's a story and a half type design and so the room where this TV was was in an area with more of an open floorplan so there's nothing really to reflect off of.


So I had bought an IR blaster that I fished through the wall and bought an IR shield cover. And more or less just stuck the IR blaster directly on top of the IR receiver on the old TV.

https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Emitter-Stick-Infrared-Emitters/dp/B004WLA25G


https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Extension-Transmitter-Compatible/dp/B01H5A3IWY/ref=pd_sim_23_38?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=98GSE8F3JJVSRNAM14D2


From there I used the 2nd IR port on the harmony hub.

Hey OP, I had the same problem as you and found a nice plug that turns it off for me when it detects standby mode.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Protected-Energy-Socket-Remote-Sensor/dp/B00E0M9RE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525075304&sr=8-1&keywords=eon+plug

Works perfectly with my sony bravia. If it detects standby after 2min it will power it off. Turns back on with the remote power button.

I bought this and it works perfectly for what I wanted.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AMTRR5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would something like this work if I wanted to expand it for 4k hdr

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0797MCCR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LZF-BbWB9KD0S

And the same Amazon app runs fine on every other legitimate platform. The Sony hardware+bloatware is an unforgivable abomination. It's like complaining the Amazon app doesn't work well on a SpeakNSpell.

I have not received the cable in the link, a few sources indicated it will not work so I bought a different one that arrived sooner. Installed this yesterday. Works great and solves my problem. The receiver was able to be hidden on the underside of a shelf on the tv stand and the small IR blaster is un-noticeably stuck on the IR receiver of the TV. I have not noticed any lag from the set up.


The only thing I will say is if you use a USB port on the TV then you will still need to "shoot" the on command over the power bar since it receives no power when the TV is off. Can be easily fixed by using the included power adapter instead.

You could try something like this if dirty power is an issue.

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https://www.amazon.com/Furman-SS6B-Plug-Surge-Protector/dp/B0002D017M/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1549502401&sr=8-20&keywords=power+conditioner

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I was having the same issue. This HMDI cable solved my issue.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002K8H7XS?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I ordered three of those because I felt the connection in the back was too tight because the area where the ports are is curved and was afraid it would stress and damage the ports over time. They work perfectly and keep the cables totally secure.

It probably will. I don't have any trouble plugging in a dongle for my wireless keyboards like this one or this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006K3CM4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_kpNzDbMBP9B4V

Use this for hiding the cables. But you’ll need to take the TV down

Just get a aftermarket tv stand. E.g.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0122TVI7U/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use

https://www.amazon.com/Fitueyes-Universal-Tabletop-components-TT107001GB/dp/B0122TVI7U

I tried the cable that came with the tv and it doesn't work as a receiver. Looking at getting the receiver in the link, anybody try one of these?

Infrared Resources 9ft 38-56kHz Dual Band External Universal IR Receiver Extender for Verizon FiOS + Most Cable Boxes and DTA Units. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JSDHCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LLEYDbQVPBGAE

I have been using these for over a year and despite what input I place them in all I get is no signal check external input or select another input.

No, it's not the deleycon.

Between PC and AVR I have this one: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B004BIG55Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Between AVR and Tv I have 2.

AVR MainOut to TV HDMI 3 in: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01MFFACPB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

AVR SubOut to TV HDMI 2 in:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B005M0W2ZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

...or vice versa, I'm not 100% sure, but they should only differ in color.

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PC connection is currently: PC -> AVR -> AVR SubOut -> TV HDMI 2 in

...Maybe I should check if it's the same on HDMI 3 in?

I have no idea, I know they are 2.0 just not sure if it's a or b. They're AmazonBasics I got maybe...3 or 4 months ago? I think they're a though...I thought HDMI 2.0b was for audio enhancement for things like Dolby Atmos? Does 'b' enable the 60hz ? This is the one here my guess is it is 2.0a :/