(Part 2) Top products from r/buildapc

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We found 1,598 product mentions on r/buildapc. We ranked the 17,123 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/buildapc:

u/ethdman · 1 pointr/buildapc

Very light issues this time, and it mostly revolves around value.

-CPU: I rarely recommend X SKUs for Ryzen, largely because you can overclock the non-X to the same clocks in almost any circumstance. But, if you don't want to mess with clocks, it's a good enough CPU for what it is. Since your initial post, though, 3rd-gen Ryzen (aka Zen 2) CPUs have come out and the 3600 has emerged as one of the best value gaming CPUs. If you could spare another $25, that'd be a much better option. Otherwise, I'd step down to the 2600. Keep in mind that you might have to request a boot kit from AMD to use 3rd-gen Ryzen with B450 boards.
-CPU Cooler: The Wraith cooler in box is actually just fine and if you want to save $40 you can drop the cooler entirely, but having seen the Deepcool Gammax GT BK in person I have to say it's a downright gorgeous cooler if you're into the RGB craze. It's about on par with the often-recommended Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO, with roughly the same design, just prettier RGB lights vs, for example, the Hyper 212 Black RGB.
-Motherboard: Your case can support full-ATX, and the full-ATX version of the motherboard you picked is $10 cheaper after rebate. The Pro4 has some of the better VRMs for B450, making for some decent overclocks, but the king of B450 boards is still the MSI B450 Tomahawk.
-RAM: No complaints here. You could step down to a brand like XPG to get RGB cheaper, but Corsair RGB is typically less fuss.
-Storage: The drive you've picked is a SATA M.2, and is honestly a great drive that I'd recommend. Still, considering you can step up to PCIe for $5 cheaper, that's probably what I'd suggest. Given how much I've hocked this drive lately I feel like people are wondering if I'm paid off by Sabrent, but it's just a really good value, using a top-tier controller with top-tier flash from Toshiba. Just remember to register it so you can get a five-year warranty, it's three years otherwise.
-GPU: I just about had a heart attack, thinking that AMD GPU prices had gone up again, but it turns out this one is just overpriced. The best RX 580 on the market is $220 right now, but I'd actually probably suggest going for Nvidia with a GTX 1660 or even 1660 Ti, both much better graphics cards for the money these days.
-Case: The airflow on this one is kind of meh thanks to the glass front panel, making air have to turn to get in, but it's a great looking case. Honestly, for the parts you have it's probably fine. Just keep in mind that it only comes with a single fan at the back, you'll want to buy some more for at least the front for some air intake.
-PSU: The trade war is unfortunately hitting power supplies hard, so just about any suggestions I could give for this are pricey. Still, at the price you're buying this, it looks like the EVGA G1+ is a better deal at $80 with no rebate for a fully modular PSU on a slightly better FSP platform vs. the CX550M's Great Wall platform. It's also 650W vs 550W.

Putting all of this together makes for a build that's barely more expensive, about $7 more at time of writing. (Note the incompatibility warning - as I mentioned, third gen Ryzen might need a boot kit from AMD so you can update the BIOS.)

u/slyde56 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Hey again! Okay, couple things: what's your budget? Do you have any older components that you can transfer to this build? Things like monitors, keyboards, mice, hard drive, CD drives, etc. can really knock down the price of the total build and allow you to get better quality components. It looks like you have a few things that you could upgrade or downgrade based on what you're going to be using it for and how much you want to spend. I think you're missing an optical drive above?

Basically, whenever you see something you don't understand about anything, google it and you'll find all sorts of other people who don't understand it too. Things like motherboard chipsets/sockets (H61, H67, P67, Z68, Z77, LGA 1155) take a while to sink in, so just lurk around BaPC and read forum posts and things will start to make sense.

i5 vs i7: The only real difference between these is the availability of what's called hyperthreading. Hyperthreading (available only on an i7) allows a CPU to simulate more cores than it actually has, and in 3D modeling programs like Maya or 3D Max it looks like you might actually get a fair bit of a boost, as well as any programming that can do computations in parallel. Not to say that an i5 is bad at these applications--you have to decide whether it's worth the £68 to you.

The commenter who said to upgrade to an "K" series processor mainly did so because the i5-2500k/i7-2600k processors are champion overclockers that have unlocked multipliers (basically meaning that you can change the set operating frequency from the stock 3.3/3.6 Ghz to 4.2-4.5 Ghz without sweating, making things run faster).

If you want to try overclocking, you're going to want a better motherboard. Do some reading about what kinds of motherboards allow overclocking.

Your CPU cooler is a bit overkill, especially if you have a non-overclockable processor. Processors always come with their own stock coolers.

Large SSDs usually only come on pretty expensive builds, as they're pretty cost-prohibitive, and usually are accompanied by a "storage" HDD anyway. You can get a ton more space for a lot less money with a normal HDD. Use the money you save, for example, on a better GPU.

You also have to decide how much beef you want on your GPU. The 560 Ti is a very capable GPU along with the equivalent AMD card--look into it, but for using a "viewport" in 3D modeling, nVidia consumer cards might be better than AMD? Quick searching didn't tell me anything. Check out the Best Graphics Cards for the Money link in the sidebar to get the most of your budget. Note that this guide is for gaming only.

Note about PCpartpicker: In your build, many of the components you've chosen aren't listed as being able to be bought anywhere in the UK, so they're not listed as having a price. If you can find a particular component on a site somewhere, it's just that PCpartpicker doesn't list that site, so feel free to include it anyway. These guides are a great place to start to start with a budget and begin putting parts together.

Here's what I put together that would be a sort of higher-end build (budget based mainly on the one you showed):

Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | £168.18 @ Scan.co.uk
Motherboard | ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | £113.12 @ Amazon UK
Memory | Kingston Blu 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £32.00 @ Maplin Electronics
Hard Drive | Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £89.99 @ Maplin Electronics
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB Video Card | £198.84 @ Ebuyer
Case | Corsair 400R ATX Mid Tower Case | £76.99 @ Maplin Electronics
Power Supply | Antec 650W ATX12V Power Supply | £73.55 @ Amazon UK
Optical Drive | Sony AD-7280S-0B DVD/CD Writer | £13.67 @ Scan.co.uk
Monitor | ViewSonic VX2253mh-LED 22.0" Monitor | £117.86 @ Scan.co.uk
Monitor | ViewSonic VX2253mh-LED 22.0" Monitor | £117.86 @ Scan.co.uk
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit) | £100.85 @ Ebuyer
Keyboard | Gigabyte KM7580 Wireless Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | £19.00 @ Dabs
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | £1121.91
| Generated 2012-04-13 18:40 BST+0100 |

Keep in mind that if you have any monitors coming in, you'll probably greatly reduce the price. I'm a fan of the processor, motherboard, GPU, hard drive specifically. Corsair makes good cases, but you could definitely get a cheaper one that would serve your purposes. I'm not particular about the memory, optical drive, power supply, monitor, or keyboard/mouse combo. If you want to overclock, you're also going to want a cooler (cheap but very loved cooler here, but not on PCpartpicker for some reason) Also, you can use an Windows 7 upgrade DVD for a full install, and you can get a student-priced Windows 7 Professional upgrade for cheap through Microsoft.

Quite high-end:

Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-2600K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | £236.60 @ Scan.co.uk
Motherboard | ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | £113.12 @ Amazon UK
Memory | Kingston Blu 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £32.00 @ Maplin Electronics
Hard Drive | Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £89.99 @ Maplin Electronics
Hard Drive | Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | £73.00 @ Ebuyer
Video Card | Asus Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card | £217.70 @ Scan.co.uk
Case | Corsair 400R ATX Mid Tower Case | £76.99 @ Maplin Electronics
Power Supply | Antec 650W ATX12V Power Supply | £73.55 @ Amazon UK
Optical Drive | Sony AD-7280S-0B DVD/CD Writer | £13.67 @ Scan.co.uk
Monitor | ViewSonic VX2253mh-LED 22.0" Monitor | £117.86 @ Scan.co.uk
Monitor | ViewSonic VX2253mh-LED 22.0" Monitor | £117.86 @ Scan.co.uk
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit) | £100.85 @ Ebuyer
Keyboard | Gigabyte KM7580 Wireless Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | £19.00 @ Dabs
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | £1282.19
| Generated 2012-04-13 19:12 BST+0100 |

Again, I'm a fan of the processor, motherboard, GPU, and hard drives specifically. I added on a SSD, because it's pretty nice on a higher-end build to have the SSD as the boot disk (windows boots up in less than a minute!). Upgraded to a i7-2600k (note that you could put this processor on the previous build and it would work just fine, obviously), put up the graphics card.

So chew on that for a while, read some more posts about stuff, figure out how much you can spend and how much you actually need, make more posts here, and lemme know how it goes!

u/MasterofStickpplz · 2 pointsr/buildapc

CPU: Just realized the Microcenter price carried over on this which sucks if you're not near one.. Only thing you'd loose is the overclock ability. Price should be about $209.99 from Amazon which should bring the total build price to ~$760

MOBO: I've seen it recommended with the Pentium G3528 or something for overclocking, was inexpensive, couldn't go wrong really. Doesn't have all the bells and whistles of the more expensive boards but we don't really need those as of yet (just wait until your friend really gets into gaming/custom PCs.. most of the premium boards are for looks IMO, but dammit I like my PC to look badass :p )

RAM: can drop to 2 x 2gb if you need to shave the price some. I put in 8gb just so you wouldn't have to upgrade that later. There shouldn't be any need to bump it further unless your friend starts running a bunch of crap simultaneously and needs it all open or starts doing some large video editing/rendering

STORAGE: 1 TB is a good place to start, an SSD for the OS would be great as well if you can find a good, inexpensive one and allows for the HDD to be used for more extra. You can grab a 2TB Seagate drive for $30 more, but I'm not sure how they perform or how reliable they can be so that's up to you

GPU: 750Ti is still the entry point to 1080p gaming, I believe. It'll do fine for everyday stuff and if he decides to pick up light gaming in the beginning

CASE: seems pretty solid, has room for 3 more SSDs/HDDs when/if you want them. Decent airflow and cable management stuff. If you notice heating/airflow issues then you can slap some fans in there

PSU: seasonic is supposedly one of the best brands to go with, 80+ Gold rating is hard to beat with that.. You can get an EVGA 750W for about $10 more but I wasn't sure how far you planned to upgrade (like SLI and stuff) so I left it high enough for something like a single GTX970 to still do well.

OS: Personal preference.. I like 8.1 over 7. The metro stuff doesn't take too much to get used to and the OS just feels a bit more optimized over 7.

NOTES: If you need to, you can remove the GPU and get one later. The i5's HD4600 can do decently well on its own, but you will need a GPU for some of the heavier games your friend may or may not get in to.

Didn't add a monitor but left enough of a budget in there for you to choose one to your/your friend's liking

I didn't add a cooler like the 212 EVO as I don't think you'd be overclocking straight out of the gate. You can add one in there for another $30 or so if you want to

DISCLAIMER: THIS BUILD WAS MADE WITH GAMING DOWN THE ROAD IN MIND AS TO MINIMIZE LATER UPGRADE COSTS.

That being said, someone else may come along and throw a more inexpensive alternative out that leans more towards general use (which you really don't need the top-of-the-line i5 for)

u/Klokinator · 1 pointr/buildapc

Let me go over my picks for you.

Number 1 best value: Acer 240HY. 23.8", IPS, and almost no bezels. 60hz, so pretty great for the price, with HDMI.

Number 1 best 144hz gaming monitor: Viewsonic XG2401/2701. It has freesync, the best color of all sub $300 monitors, and can rotate into portrait mode if needed. This monitor is fantastic if you have an AMD graphics card. If you do not, however, you'll either want a G-sync monitor (Much pricier) or go for a Benq and save money, since those lack freesync (Which doesn't benefit Nvidia cards anyway) but still have fantastic ratings.

Speaking of which, this is the best 144hz monitor without Freesync or Gsync. BenQ XL2411Z

Want a fantastic cheap Freesync monitor? Look no further than any size of these Viewsonics. Viewsonic VX series. All are 60hz but overclockable to 75hz (Nice!) and they all have freesync. I'd still recommend the #1 monitor I listed first, since IPS will probably be a lot better on your eyes, but these are great alternatives if you want a cheap gaming monitor and have an AMD card.

Want 144hz gaming but you're a cheapskate? No problem. Either buy the AOC G2460PF (Freesync!) which doesn't look quite as good as the Viewsonic I mentioned second but is $60 cheaper, or go for the Atron Vision AVF24 for an alternate, highly rated but lacking Freesync monitor. You can even get them used off Amazon for $150ish too!

Personally, I think for you, the first monitor I listed is your #1 best bet, BUT you can, if you really want to pinch pennies, go for the Acer H236L 23" monitor and buy it refurbished for almost exactly $100. It's also a bezel-less monitor, looks okay, and has high ratings. Personally, based on my research though, if you're going to buy this one new, go instead for the Acer I listed at the top, since it's IPS and this one is LCD. It still seems the better deal.

Happy shopping!

u/Kyrond · 22 pointsr/buildapc

Just my opinion, I am no expert, but these seem like the best choices as they are popular, and consideration how much work it would take to design them.
Also check the most popular on Amazon, Newegg and PC part picker.

CPUs from one socket look almost the same right?
So a LGA 1151 and AM3+ CPUs.

For RAM, classic PCB with black chips, maybe another one with a very simple heatspreader in different colors, as it would take quite a lot of work to create realistic heatspreaders for little benefit IMO.

Any HDD, they all look similar.

For SSDs, Samsung are the most popular and very simple to do.

Three most popular CPU coolers prolly are CRYORIG H7, Hyper 212 EVO, and Corsair H100i, maybe with addition of a single fan AIO like Corsair H55.

GPUs are tougher:

u/Laahari · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yeah I believe that H7 would be a step to right direction, but honestly I would go with somethin like this
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

Or this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HPX7J4K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494584874&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=be+quiet+dark+rock+pro+3&dpPl=1&dpID=41f-YJuctCL&ref=plSrch

They are really expensive, that is true, but they pack serious cooling power. You have quaranteed silent operation and possibility of overclocking as much as you want. These two coolers THE best ones around beating all of the $150 aios too. It's just cool to have that I7 running over 5ghz with good temps and silently. But yeah that cryorig is surely going to let you oc till something like 4,6ghz still staying reasonably quiet. Choise is yours.

Your pc just literally has the best components available, I feel like it would deserve good cooler to keep it cozy;)

Ps funny thing about those noctua fans is that they alone cost 20 bucks a piece, and are seriously awesome fans, quiet, efficient and long lasting, I'm running two of the indusrial versions on my build

u/hctheman · 1 pointr/buildapc

Alright, I see that the GPU handles 1440p @ close to 60 FPS in most newer tripple A titles & handles games on ultra setting ^1. It also handles tripple A games at a much higher FPS(75-100~) with 1080p, and by extension, esport games (dota 2, cs:go, overwatch etc) at more than 144fps. So the way I see it is that you have two choises:

  • Option one: If you care about High details & high resolution in single player games, I'd most def go for a 1440p ISP monitor. This is gonna give you a very gorgeous & detailed look in-games. It's also gonna be very great watching movies on. Something like this monitor, it's around 200 euro on Amazon, but I would try to find it locally to save on the shipping cost.

  • Option two: If your only experience gaming has been on a lapop the first option might sound tempting, but if you wanna play some competative games such as Fortnight, Cs:go, Pubg or Mobas a 144hz, 24 inch monitor with low responds time (1MS) is the way to go. It's kind of hard to explain just how significant the change from 60 to 120&144hz can be, but everything will look way smoother & the gameplay will seem more immersive. In general you're just gonna have a better experience. The details arent gonna be as clear as with a 1440p ISP panel, but it makes up for that with the fluidity of the gameplay itself. For a more thorough explanation, check out this video. This is a really good 144hz, 24 inch, 1MS, 1080p monitor

  • Option three : If you wanna have the best of both worlds, save up more money & buy a 1440p, 144hz monitor. This will give you the benifits of both, but this comes at more than double the cost of what you had in mind for the budget. Something like this should give you the best gaming experience.

    Hope that gave you some insight into getting a monitor.

u/BaconKnight · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Are you gonna liquid cool? I ask because that case is generally for liquid cooling. The airflow of that case it not that great. Here's another option, a lot better suited for air cooling: HAF X.

For CPU cooler, here's a pretty good one, the Hyper 212 Plus. It's not much more than the one you listed and it's regularly considered one of the best air coolers, especially for the price. If you can, try to pick up a 2nd 120 mm fan and do push/pull with it.

Also if you are doing serious heavy duty video editing, I'm always a proponent of getting as much RAM as you can. May want to think about getting the 16 gb kit.

Besides that it looks pretty good. Some might say it'd be better (and cheaper) to get 2 Samsung F3 1 tb drives and run it in RAID. Also there's people out there who might have some issue with the 590 card (either say it's overkill, or better to get two 580s) but I don't have a particularly strong stance on either position so I'll leave that to them.

Just a sidenote though, if you can afford to add it to your system, I'd highly recommend getting a SSD as a boot drive/program drive. It was the most noticeable change I ever got from a single component upgrade. I'd recommend at least a 128 gb if you're gonna put all your programs + windows on it. You could probably get away with 64 gb but you'd always have to be super frugal about space. My personal recommendation is the Crucial M4. Just make sure you update the firmware to revision 9 before you start installing anything on it (google it, it's super easy to do).

EDIT: Also was looking at your motherboard. From everything I could see, this Gigabyte board seems to be pretty much the same features wise and cheaper to boot.

u/cleesus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Let me first say im not an expert in Air coolers for cpus, I have always used All in one(AIO) water coolers. AIO are definitely more expensive, but easier to install, have better cooling ability, but can be louder than Air coolers.

Air coolers tend to have better price/performance and are cheaper but tend to be harder to install.

These two below are two of the most popular due to price/performance so they are worth looking at on the AUS side of things to.

https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI

This article also has some good info on both types and good suggestions at different price points
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-cpu-coolers,4181.html

The only other thing would be to try and get a EVGA G series psu or a Seasonic G series(What i have, caught it on sale tho). If you cant find one of them Corsair makes some cool ones too. You want to get a Bronze 80 rated PSU at the very least. They are one of the most important parts of the pc and one going bad can cause damage or a lot of instability once your gpu/cpu starts kicking in.

Im not familar with the cases you choose but its important to look at the manufacturers website of the case to see how much clearance each case provides for air coolers since they can be big as hell.

That all being said I think the UMART build is the best out of the three with the PC CASE GEAR coming in second.

The UMART is only $100 AUS more than the others according to the image but with that build you get better performance with the ability to overclock later down the line if you need more power eventually.
Plus you get slightly faster ram so overall it looks better.

Remember that you can upgrade to a better case, GPU or cpu fan etc down the line if you outgrow your current selection but the CPU/PSU, and Motherboard will be fine for a lot of years so its worth spending a little more on them now.

Also sheesh man those AUS prices are no joke, that 470 would only be around $160-180 in the states

u/ben9322 · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Just a few suggestions here:

  • HD 6950 2 GB for roughly the same price, which you can unlock to a HD 6970 relatively easily.

  • You're probably better off just getting 2 of these, as it'll perform roughly as well as the Western Digital Caviar Black for a lower price, and the Seagate you chose is really mediocre. Also, you could even try to get an SSD and a relatively slow 2 TB HDD for storage. I don't know much about SSDs though, so I won't make any uninformed suggestions.

  • That memory is extremely overpriced, and the differences between 1333, 1600, and 1866 (crazy..) are more or less negligible. Here's 4 GB of DDR3 1600 RAM for a good price.

  • 850 watts is overkill unless you plan on Crossfiring two of the HD 6950s. If you're just gonna use one (which will perform admirably at 1920x1080), you're better off with a cheaper power supply >500 watts. This is a good power supply at a decent price after rebate.

  • Here's a cheaper ~~23" monitor ~~better 23" monitor which should be just fine.

  • Here's a cheaper wired mouse with very good ratings.

  • Here's the same HAF 922 case, for cheaper and with free shipping. The only difference is that the case fan LED is red instead of blue.

  • You really only need the six-core Phenom II if you mess around with multi-threaded applications a lot, and you would be better off going with a Core i5 or i7 in that situation anyway. That said, the Phenom II x6 is still a great CPU. If you feel like downgrading just a tad bit, a Phenom II x4 955 is still an amazing CPU, which can be overclocked easily to 3.7 GHz or higher. A recommended heatsink would be the Cooler Master Hyper 212+, which will guarantee low temperatures.

    EDIT: There's currently a pretty decent 5% off, with a $10 gift card deal, for the Phenom II x4 1090T.
u/SuperSlims · 1 pointr/buildapc

So basically, The MB and CPU I have are bottom line and to upgrade would to swap everything and start fresh? I cant keep this MOBO at all?
If thats the case, What parts can I look into that are comparable to high end that wont completely break me?(even if I have to buy in pieces) Im sure that Ryzen 5 is great, but there is better for a decent price, no?

And tell me about it. I started to figure that out when I asked for help. The kid is smart and has a killer rig, but apparently he likes to give me the run around. He recommended [this] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-04G-P4-6253-KR/dp/B01MF7EQJZ), going on to say that he runs a [GTX 1060] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-03G-P4-6160-KR/dp/B01KUADE3O/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1536664980&sr=1-2&refinements=p_89%3AEVGA%2Cp_36%3A1253506011) in his and that I should spring for that if I have the extra cash.
I dont know any more. Those are both in my price range, but I cant help but feeling like there is better for the same price, like [this one for example] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KMVHB6M/ref=psdc_284822_t1_B01KUADE3O). What would you personally recommend on this? I just dont know much about building yet, and I cant trust me self to make a good decision when it comes to these things, which is why I posted in the first place. I feel so cheated.

I appreciate all the advice and info. I get the feeling you arent going to give the run around so any personal recommendation are great. You have been awesome. Thank you.

u/DarkStarFTW · 1 pointr/buildapc

> I felt more comfortable going the Intel route and would like to continue that way to have a similar architecture everywhere even if I am open to listening. I am not anti-AMD or whatever.

That's a fine decision, but if you want to save a bit more money, it's probably cheaper to go AMD and get equal/better performance. Most software development tools are multithreaded and will benefit from more cores and threads. AMD CPUs are very similar to Intel CPUs, and the only difference is slightly slower single core clocks and much much slower AVX512. If you know you need AVX512, stay with Intel.

For example:

u/dxrion · 8 pointsr/buildapc

i'll save you some time.

 

the top 1080p 144hz 1ms TN Panel they recommend over there on every post that asks, #1 is the Viewsonic XG2401

& #2 is the LG 24GM77-B

they say these two have the best color accuracy for a tn.

 

i recommend the Samsung CFG70

it has better color accuracy than both of those monitors above (because it's a VA panel and not a TN) and colors look as good as on my other IPS display IMO. (IPS panels have the best color accuracy)
and it has great viewing angles unlike a TN panel.
also it's $70 off rn. i really wouldn't pass this offer up as you're getting better color accuracy and better viewing angles for only $20 more than the Viewsonic.

 

good luck (:

u/DublinBen · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Depending on what you mean by 'media' that 2500K is pretty overkill. You can get nearly identical gaming performance from the significantly less expensive i3-2100.

I wouldn't call that Zalman cooler superfluous, but I wouldn't pick it over the favored 212+ unless you have solid evidence showing how quiet it is. You should see what sites like SilentPCreview and Guru3D consider the leaders in quiet cooling at the moment.

You can definitely save a good deal of money with any one of these ASRock micro ATX motherboards. That Asus is enormously more expensive than you need.

The GTX 560TI is a good choice. You should consider this MSI twin frozr 6950 2GB card for only ten bucks more. It is the more powerful card in nearly every case. MSI also makes some of the coolest cards around, which is of primary importance for a microATX build like this one.

You probably don't need all 16 GB of that RAM. You should stick with this set instead.

You also won't need that 650W power supply. With a single mid-range GPU, at most you'll need is 500W. I would recommend finding a well reviewed, modular unit around 500W instead.

u/TheCopyPasteLife · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Hey man!

Check out [this motherboard] (http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Intel-USB3-0-Motherboard-GA-H81M-H/dp/B00I6DLKCA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1412625307&sr=8-4&keywords=lga+1150+motherboard) which goes for around 50 USD.

If you are new, you need to make sure that the socket type of the processor is a LGA 1150, so the motherboard must have the same socket type. Your i3 is a LGA 1150, so the motherboard and the processor should work together. Just made a similar mistake, however nothing terrible bad occured.

I know that you just asked for a motherboard, but I can't help but notice that you are going for a budget gaming build. Half the parts you have are the same as the parts I have. In fact, I ordered the Evga GTX 750 Ti from Newegg just this Saturday for 135 USD.

So what I have to say on your build regarless if you asked for help is to get a [Intel Core i3-4360 @ 3.70GHz] (http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-4360-Processor-Cache-BX80646I34360/dp/B00J2LIFDC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412625825&sr=8-1&keywords=Intel+Core+i3-4360+%40+3.70GHz) which is more expensive, at 150 USD, but has way better performance.

Even better yet is to go for an AMD processor, however I know that some people are not a fan of them, but thats fine.

If you don't mind about AMD, pick up a [AMD FX-6350 Six-Core] (http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD6300WMHKBOX-FX-6300-Processor-Edition/dp/B009O7YORK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412626082&sr=8-2&keywords=AMD+FX-6350+Six-Core) which goes for 100 USD, but is far better than the i3 I linked above, and the i3 in your current build.

Please note that changing to AMD will change the motherboard you need, but the cost of the motherboard should still stay around 50 USD.

AMD also has a 8 core processor that runs for 130 USD that you may want to look into. Most games dont utilize more than 2 cores however.

I will gladly help you with anything you need.

One more thing I am looking into is buying a case that comes with a PSU. I know that Coolermaster, a reputable company, provides an option like this for around 60-70 USD. You could look into that if you prefer.

Also note that a operating system will cost you almost 100 USD, a sizable chunk of money in a budget build, unless your run Linux.

Glad to help.

u/jonbaa · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I haven't looked at the website you linked, but just right off the top :

  1. You can definitely go for a cheaper CPU cooler. For example, the Cryorig H7 is plenty good for a lower price (assuming you can get that where you're located). The Hyper 212 EVO is also a very popular budget option.

  2. You don't need 3200 RAM. RAM speed will typically be one of the last things to affect your computer's performance (in terms of bottlenecking). The usual advice is to go with the cheapest set of RAM that matches what you want in number of RAM sticks, amount of memory, and aesthetics.

  3. You'll hear this often, but you should definitely look into getting an SSD for your OS and main programs/games. It's the #1 contributor to making your computer FEEL fast. Load times in games will be much, much quicker, you'll boot your PC up in seconds, and moving around files/copying/installing/etc will be much faster as well.

    Basically, I'm recommending you save money by getting a cheaper CPU cooler and cheaper RAM, then putting that towards getting a solid SSD. I'd recommend ~250GB minimum, but 500GB SSDs on sale often offer more storage per dollar and would therefore be a better value. Plus you'll be sad if you run out of space on your SSD for your most often used programs/games.

    Good luck!
u/totalBS · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Motherboard: That will work just fine. I believe the quote you listed is telling you to buy an add-on card which connects to your motherboard through a PCI slot and gives you extra USB ports like this. That mothboard has 4 USB 2.0 ports and 2 USB 3.0 ports and your case has two front panel USB ports. This brigns your total USB ports up to 8. If you need more than 8 then you can buy an add-on card or back plate that attaches to the USB connections on the motherboard. The latter looks like this. The black thing obviously goes to the motherboard.

CPU: Depending on how much video editing you do you might be able to drop down to the 2500K. The 2600K will be better for video editing, but if you really need to save money and don't edit enough to justify the price increase then you can get the 2500K.

GPU: The 570 is pretty good and you would want to get an EVGA card because they have a lifetime warranty. You can also get the 6950 which is slightly worse (maybe 10% less FPS) but costs about $80 less.

Hard drive: Switch to the Samsung Spinpoint F3. It's cheaper, faster (the 6 Gb/s on the WD is crap, HDD can't even get up to 3 Gb/s), and more reliable. If you have extra money then get an SSD. One of the best upgrades you can give your computer. They are crazy fast

Everything else looks good. Make sure to get an aftermarket CPU cooler if you overclock. The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is great.

u/onliandone · 1 pointr/buildapc

The questions to clear up are: Which resolution do you want? 1440p is a bit much for the RX 480, but to move from a solid 1080p display you have to a new one just for Freesync might be not worth it – maybe depending on whether you'd be happy to continue to use it as second display, or whether you can sell it for a good price.

Panel is the next questions. There are some IPS displays with Freesync, which is nice as it means better colors and viewing angles. Freesync also introduces freesnyc-range as a feature, the FPS area where it works. That differs from display to display. Also, high-hertz or staying closer to 60; normally freesync means that the display goes up to 70 at least. Related to panel as high-hertz means TN.

I'll give you some concrete options for your budget. See them as starting points, there are valid alternatives. Samsung S24E370DL seems to be a good choice when not wanting to spend too much (~160€). 24", 1080p, Freesync-range from 45-75, reportedly hackable to 35-75, PLS-panel (equal to IPS). I'd get that, it's a nice small upgrade to what you have, Freesnyc, better panel, higher hertz.

If you want to go to 1440p, I'd consider the Ilyama B2783QSU-B1. 1440p, 27". But Freesnyc-range only 48-70Hz and it is a TN-panel with not so great viewing angles, something to be aware of.

The alternative is to go to 120 or 144Hz displays. I personally would not do that. But it could work here given you play some older games where your FPS will be high enough. A solid model would be the ViewSonic XG2401.

u/Kubliah · 1 pointr/buildapc

PCpartpicker seems to err on the side of caution, but I don't trust it 100%. Newegg is probably the best in terms of parts specifications, they list cooler and ram heights and how big of a cooler each case can accept. Amazon will tell you too but sometimes you have to dig through the questions. The best source is probably the specifications at the manufacturers website.
I just built a gaming pc a few months ago, and like you I wanted function over form. 8700k processor with the best performing air cooler I could buy - https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK
If you end up getting that you need low profile ram. I bought two of the better cooling cases from that gamersnexus link to test the cooler fit, the Silverstone RL06 and Rosewill Cullinan. Supposedly the RL06 was like 5mm too narrow to accept the D15 cooler, but it actually does fit (however it touches the window). The Cullinan I bought as a backup because it was slightly deeper and that was the one I ended up using but it didn't like my tall Strix video card, had to fight it.

u/sir_froggy · 1 pointr/buildapc

FreeSync doesn’t affect Nvidia cards, it just doesn’t work with them. You’ll get the same framerates on a FreeSync monitor as with no sync monitor, you just can’t enable the FreeSync feature for use, the monitor will just work as a regular monitor. G-Sync is a nice feature but it usually adds $50-100 to the price tag so be cautious. Tearing can occur regardless of monitor depending on your framerates and the game, but with 144hz you should be relatively fine unless you’re playing at 160+ FPS.

That ASUS is overpriced for a TN monitor, if you don’t mind TN go for the Acer XFA240 which does have FS. But with your 1070Ti you may want to consider 1440p, especially since you were considering a $350 ASUS, you can get the Dell S2417DG which isn’t much more, has G-Sync and is the best value 1440p 144hz on the market currently. A 1070Ti will play most games in 1440p admirably and it will be great for a long time. I know neither is 27” but you’re gonna have to compromise somewhere, and 24” is still a great size.

u/MICHAligator · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm not too experienced with different monitors, but in my opinion 144Hz is really nice to have, the game feels much smoother. I own one myself This one but I'd recommend That one

The one I own isn't really better than the one I recommend performance wise, but I liked it more aesthetically.

So maybe you could see if you can get these BenQ's somewhere. Also if you see some Monitors from Zowie, they are most likely the same as the BenQ's
Hope that helps :)

Edit: I play CS:GO aswell and I never want to go back to 60Hz. So if you are able to get stable 120-144fps or more I'd go for 144Hz monitor.

u/123kyran123 · 1 pointr/buildapc

> Should I add a sound card to improve upon the crappy audio?

first of all, audio is subjective so what I say here might not entirely apply to you.

Internal sound cards don't really improve over onboard and there are a few reasons for it.

  • Soundcards get rarely updated or new ones get launches so most option are outdated.

  • They still have to deal with interference with the desktop components.

  • Are marketed towards headsets

    Most headsets are marketed for gamers, which don't really need the audio quality. They want rather the surround sound en precision over quality of the audio itself. Meaning the DAC (Digital to audio converter) is usually a hold back. Especially as it can get interference from other components. Amplifiers on onboard solutions are hold back as well as they need power (preferably direct form the source) to amplify the input, which it receives from the DAC.

    Without going into it too much I advise you checking out external audio interfaces. While onboard audio might be enough for you, you'll notice a big difference when going on external DACs and amplifiers! I highly recommend these:

  • The Fiio E10K. It's a cheap ($75) DAC and Amp together, but produces some amazing sound! It does rely on onboard audio and might hold back the amplifier. Amazingly well suppressed distortion and crosstalk.

  • The Shiit Modi DAC and the Shiit Magni Amp are probably the best value options on the market right now. A total price of $200 is very reasonable.

  • The Objective2 DAC + Amp. This is a great $300 DAC and amp combo. This one stand really out for the bit of customization you can do before ordering. You can say whether you want you 3.5mm audio jack in the front or back for example. It has better distortion and crosstalk suppression as the Shiit combo, but outputs at slightly lower volumes.

    > How is the overclocking on this board compared to the others?

    The X99S SLI Plus does very well on performance part. Outperforming most Gigabyte, ASRock and asus boards! Although the difference is minor.
u/neums08 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I know the Samsung EVO ssd's are widely recommended on this sub. I'm not sure why they are preferred, maybe someone else can chime in on that.

As for the GPU, you won't get more performance per dollar out of SLI. A single powerful card will almost always offer more value. However, one thing I've seen is that you can get an extra boost for free if you're upgrading your GPU by using your old GPU as a dedicated PhysX card. I was just reading an article on it here: http://volnapc.com/how-much-difference-does-a-dedicated-physx-card-make. The improvement is apparently quite substantial, though this will only benefit games that use PhysX.

I've heard that the GTX 770's are a great buy. I'm waiting for my 770 to be delivered tomorrow. I plan on using my old GTX 560 TI as a dedicated PhysX card to see if it has any benefit. I would avoid the AMD R9 cards as they're still inflated due to miners snatching them all up.

Everything else looks pretty solid.

u/cleod4 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is the wrong take, OP didn't ask for best bang for the buck PC, he asked for the best PC.

Cooler: Air is usually cooler and quieter than AIOs, in your machine you want the noctua nh-d15 though.

Your memory is not the best it can be for Ryzen (you want 3200c14 or 3600c16). Remember you have 4 DIMM slots, you can go 4x8 if you want, but I don't think they are cheaper than the 2x16 kits.

3600c16

or

3200c14

I personally have the latter one, Samsung b-die for good overclocking potential.

Storage: Don't put mechanical in this build for the love of god. Your "boot drive" is fine w/ the 860 evo, consider the m.2 version for slight (and I mean slight) performance gains and less wires:

also consider it's bigger brother the 970 Evo

For your "data drive", get a 2tb mx500, If you buy a mechanical drive for this build you will be banned :).

The video card situation is a weird one right now. nVidia keeps the good bins of their cards and sells the rest to AIBs. If you want the best 2080ti, you want the founders edition

But nVidia has probably the worst customer service, and 3rd party cards offer better cooling. It's a decision that's up to you. I personally went with a Founders Edition card for my build (2080 Super though).

Get an 80+ platinum power supply

This is a hot take, but consider a wireless mouse. The offerings today have no lag and gaming without cable drag is fantastic. Some suggestions:
Logitech G Pro Wireless


Logitech G703

u/ilikefishalot · 3 pointsr/buildapc

CPU Cooler: Buy the Cyrorig H7. It's the best in it's price point at the moment, and looks amazing. You won't need a better cooler for anything unless you want to overclock, which you really don't need to do with a CPU as good as yours.


Video Card: For 1080p@60fps, I would advise the GTX 1060 or the RX 480. Both will crush 60fps at 1080p, but if you want extra future-proofing at a higher price, go for the GTX 1070. The 1060(try for 6GB), and the RX 480(try for 8GB) are excellent cards that will run any modern game well, even at 1440p. The 1070 is even better, but only really needed if you want something like Hairworks for The Witcher 3 or intensive mods for Skyrim.

RAM:Since you have a motherboard with 4 RAM slots, get another 2 4GB sticks of your current RAM and run it in quad channel, 16GB in quad channel is amazing for modern games, although your RAM's speed isn't probably high enough nowadays.

PSU:Upgrade if you want to(I'd advise it), but I won't go advising you on any because PSU's can be so inconsistent. Just try for one above 600w that gets good reviews and few failures, unless you feel OK about your current one.

u/T-In-The-Clutch · 1 pointr/buildapc

For budget level I've seen in person the Viewsonic XG2401 , Acer XF24H (Roommate owns this one) , and Samsung C24FG70 (I own this one) and they're all really good budget monitors. If I had to rank them in terms of display it would be Samsung->Viewsonic->Acer. The Samsung is the only one that is not a TN pane but it is also the priciest. I bought it because I got it on a huge deal at Fry's. the curve is negligible. All 144hz, all 1 ms response time, all 1920x1080 which is all we can hope for at this level of GPU really, maybe a little 1440 but not a whole lot. I would recommend any of the three. We were cautious about the Acer due to lack of reviews but has really impressed us so far. Just have to a do a little fiddling with colors out of the box. Another bonus the Samsung has is the quality as it comes out of the box. It also produces the largest reproduction of color gamut. In my opinion all are very good value and fantastic 144hz entry level monitors. They're no 144hz IPS GSync monitor or anything but they definitely get there job done!

u/KingHenryVofEngland · 1 pointr/buildapc

Trying to decide what to get for Christmas. Budget is probably in the less than $400 range. I want a 1440p G-sync monitor but I figure that is probably out of my budget. So I am trying to decide if I should go with a 25" 1440p monitor without g-sync or a 24" 1080p monitor with g-sync. I'm upgrading from a regular 24" 1080p monitor (which I will probably keep for a dual monitor set-up). I would be fine with staying in the 24"-25" range.

So basically I'm trying to decide what is more important, higher resolution or g-sync. I like to play modern fps games as well as lots of other types of games, but I'm not really that competitive or anything, if that matters. I linked two possible monitors above but if you can suggest something better please let me know! Thanks.

Here is my build for reference (already built):

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $257.98 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus Z87-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard |-
Memory | Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $61.73 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $89.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $69.00 @ B&H
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 - GS Video Card | $503.98 @ Newegg
Case | NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $45.99 @ Directron
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $18.88 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $89.88 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-N180UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter | $19.45 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Asus VS248H-P 24.0" Monitor | $147.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1419.86
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1379.86
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-15 22:24 EST-0500 |

u/Moosemeister · 1 pointr/buildapc

I am currently running an AMD Athlon II X3 455, which is a slight step up from the 450 you mention. It isn't a bad processor and it still performs well for me with my 550 ti card, but it's both quite outdated and not too great to begin with.

If it has to be between those processors I would go with the Phenom II X4 925 so you have some sort of longevity, but a newer processor is much better. The AMD FX-6300 is cheaper than the Phenom and should perform substantially better, plus it runs on the AM3+ socket if you have an older motherboard and don't want to upgrade.

If you are willing to purchase a new motherboard and spend a bit more on the processor, the Intel i5-4460 will likely get you even better lasting performance, though this comparison actually marks it as fairly close to the FX-6300, so perhaps it isn't worth the extra money.

I hope I was helpful, good luck with your build!


Edit: Looking at the link provided by /u/Feedel_Casthrow, it seems that the Athlon X3 450 may actually be the better pick, especially considering the cost difference. I would still side with the AMD FX-6300 over either option though.

u/TheAndrewBen · 1 pointr/buildapc

Is there any monitor better than these ones at the same price? I know it's a vague noob question to ask but I read online that a higher resolution doesn't mean it has better image quality.

This monitor reaches my max size and max resolution. I'll be happy with a 2k monitor as well, i'm not looking for a 1080p monitor.

The monitor in the link is 4k, 1ms, Freesync, 60hz. Is this a bad combination? I've seen TONS of deals out there with 1080p 144hz specs, but doesn't 1080p seem a bit low resolution for monitors larger than 22" ??

https://www.staples.com/Dell-S2817Q-28-Ultra-HD-4K-LED-Monitor/product_2629483

This other monitor looks great as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QS0AKVK/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1QXN34V76623K&colid=355WIX6N4FF37

I'm planning on using a 2nd monitor for my laptop (970m) that will help me do architecture programs, movie watching, and videogame playing. So I care a lot about image quality and performance. Let me know what you think.

u/GaiaNyx · 2 pointsr/buildapc

5820k is still a good CPU no doubt, but it's a couple generation old now. For around the same money, you can get 8700k if you can find one. Even if that's not available, you can also go 7800x, as that's the most recent in the similar lineup. 8700k is the best choise right now though.

Maybe you have the motherboard and the CPU, in which case, just stick with those two and you'll be fine.

And don't aim for 30+ fps at any resolution. I highly suggest aiming for at least 80~100+ fps with that kind of budget. GTX 1080 will do its job just fine.

GPUs have their own VRAM, and GTX 1080 has 8GB on its own. Your 16 GB ram choise is fine, and that's independent of what GPU you go for.

And lastly, get a differernt CPU cooler. I see that Hyper 212 EVO recommended to everyone and their brothers and sisters, but there are better coolers for the same money. I actually hate people going for that one with a budget closing in on $2000. Get a better one. Your budget is not a 600~800 range which would make me understand for that cooler.

Get something at least like this thing for i7 CPUs that can overclock. Better thermals, better acoustics, and better looks. Or you can also choose this if you still want to cheap out on cooling.

u/CeeeeeJaaaaay · 1 pointr/buildapc

The only thing that stands out negatively is the SSD. There's no need for a 850 Pro version that costs twice as much as another manufacter 250 GB SSD and doesn't provide enough benefits. Get the 840 Evo if you want to stick with Samsung:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W1726

If you want to spend around 200 $ get this Crucial 500 GB SSD:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFAGCUM

The most external 780Ti will blow hot air on the one closer to the CPU with that cooler. My advice is to buy this 780Ti to put near the CPU:

http://www.ncixus.com/products/?usaffiliateid=1000031504&sku=93804&vpn=GTX780TI-DC2OC-3GD5&manufacture=ASUS&promoid=1009

And a reference 780Ti to put closer to the PSU:

http://pcpartpicker.com/mr/newegg/zotac-video-card-zt7050210p

If you're wondering why I chose a reference card it's because they're the only cards (as far as I'm aware) that blow out air outside the case instead of a pull/push system like the custom versions. This means that the first card will pull air from the bottom and push it outside the case instead of blowing it on the other card pulling fans.

Also you have to keep in mind that there's a risk of bottlenecking the 2 780Tis with an i7 4790k. I know it sounds crazy but some games like Arma require a lot of CPU power and that i7 could bottleneck the 2 GPUs if you'll run them at 4k/triple monitor (which I hope you'll do with 2 780Tis). If you can, my advice is to wait until september when the new Enthusiast level CPUs will come out. The i7 5930k will be a 6 core/12 threads that has HUGE overclocking capability and will be sold for around 500$. The i7 5960x will be a 8 core/16 threads CPU that will ship for 1000$. Not only you'd get a better CPU that has better overclocking capatibility (the i7 Extreme series doesn't feature an integrated GPU), but you'll have a platform that will support the next 3-4 generations of CPUs, support for DDR4 RAM and Quad SLI. If you're building a future proof machine wait until september and get an enthusiast level MoBo + CPU and DDR4 RAM.

u/cp5184 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Check the reviews and so on, but my recommendation would be to go with a non-x570 board if the money that would go to the x570 could be better spent.

You might look at https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07LGF54XR

but if ssd performance is a big concern for you I'd recommend thinking about the new pci express 4.0 ssd, and, something to note, reviewers have been getting pci express 4.0 ssd performance on non-x570 motherboards...

RAM... Hard to say, I'd recommend maybe two 16GB sticks of good, low latency samsung B-die (google bdie finder), or, if you want, four sticks. You might lose some frequency and latency, but you'd gain in banks and ranks which have a large effect on performance. Banks and ranks operate independently. The more banks and ranks you have, the more operations your RAM is performing in the background... Also you might want to think about ECC, but that's up to you.

I'll guess you use CUDA, so just do your research. Nvidia doesn't give out a lot of free lunches. Particularly if you want DPFP do your research.

https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2018/07/30/evga-supernova-750-g1-750w-power-supply/6/

https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2018/07/03/seasonic-prime-ultra-750-titanium-power-supply/6/

https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2018/05/08/corsair-rm750x-2018-750w-power-supply/6/

Get a well reviewed power supply. I guess the one you picked is probably pretty good.

u/wuethar · 3 pointsr/buildapc

It can be another model, there's nothing inherently wrong with mixing and matching brands and models as long as they're of a size configuration that your computer supports. I think most people generally like to keep their fans consistent, but that's mostly an aesthetic thing. If you want to stick with the same fan model that came with the case, the fan that comes mountaed on the front of the Meshify C is this one: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/casefans/dynamic-series/dynamic-x2-gp-12. The case can support up to 3 120mm front fans, so you could add two more on the front with little difficulty.

One point to consider if you're thinking of adding a bunch of fans is that past a certain point your mobo may not have enough sys_fan connectors to support all of them. This is easily fixed, though, by getting either a fan controller or however many fan splitter cables you may need to get easy inputs for all of your fans (I used https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ on one of my builds and it worked well enough).

u/PostalFury · 2 pointsr/buildapc

> I know I at least want an 144 Hz monitor and have heard disagreement as to whether a higher refresh rate would lead to any significant difference in performance.

>I was originally leaning towards 1440p monitors but my friend said that it's not worth the price and is not supported as much as 1080p. He also said that 1440p can distort certain programs' UIs and create unwanted problems. Is this a correct assessment?

Virtually every game on the market that isn't trash shovelware (and even some/most of those do, too) will support 1440p.

And the distortion your friend is talking about, I *only experience it on Spotify where some of the text on the 'friend activity' sidebar becomes blurry. Here's the Windows UI that some complain about being too small. I don't really mind it, but to each their own. I wouldn't allow it to influence my choice in monitor, personally.

The best resource for monitors is NCX. Dude is fantastic when it comes to monitor recommendations. Out of that selection of monitors (plus 1), I'd personally go for either the S2417G or the XG2401.

I don't like VA monitors because, while they're in the middle of IPS and TN for color accuracy while still having low input lag, they can be bad when it comes to ghosting. Immediate no-no from me.

If you have any questions, or you'd like some help with your PC build, let me know! Always happy to help. :)

u/TheFirstRecordKeeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-H7-Tower-Cooler-Intel/dp/B00S7YA5FQ

Can't tell you why it says preorder I bought mine from amazon and it's been out since last year but yea amazon has it for 35 which is what I paid for it. To give some context on its efficiency my cpu at idle sits at 25-30c which is amazing. When under a heavy load like watching a stream and playing a triple A title game at max settings I haven't seen it get past 60c which is super amazing.

If you do have the money now I would pull the trigger on this build its very solid. If you only have enough to get a few parts now and the rest in a couple weeks immediately get the 1070 because that will be the first thing out of all those parts to go out of stock. I've been watching the 1070/1080 stock get demolished as soon as a store has some.

u/sitefall · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I don't know about the AOC, but I have the 1440p version of the Acer (every other spec the same, even same case/bezel) and two KN242HYL 60hz IPS panels (also same case/bezel) and they are fantastic.


Worth noting that CamelCamelCamel tracks third party sales of that Acer as being 195ish and sold from amazon for a few bucks less. This isn't much of a deal so much as it's normal price. link here


Personally I think monitors are one thing that is pretty safe to buy used. They are pretty stationary, people don't modify them, they have a very long life expectancy. If you're okay with that try checking ebay for it or make a post on /r/hardwareswap . Craigslist and facebook marketplace also work, these are very common models.


If you're specifically looking for new, check /r/buildapcsales - If you filter for posts tagged "monitor" and sort it by top for the past month, you will find what sort of deals are possible. Usually deals repeat themselves I find, just be patient.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You're paying too much for the PSU, I bought a 600w one for that price (after rebates). Also, RAM is dirt cheap, you might as well get 4x4, that $20 won't make or break your build but it will come in handy. If you're near a microcenter, look for a processor/motherboard combo deal. I bought an i5 2500 and a decent motherboard for $250 by shopping locally. If you can spend a little extra on an intel processor, it'll increase the performance of your computer considerably (even at the same clock speed).

I have the same video card as you. It's served me well but I only have a 19" monitor. If you're going to be playing high-end video games, you should look for a smaller monitor as well because that card will struggle at high resolutions. It works perfectly at my resolution of 1400x900, and I can play most games at max settings.

This is the top-rated 20" monitor on Amazon and it's cheap: http://www.amazon.com/HP-2011x-20-Inch-LED-Monitor/dp/B004G8QO5M/

If video games aren't your main concern, then this is a nice 24" monitor that meets your price range. http://www.amazon.com/Asus-VS247H-P-24-Inch-Full-HD-Monitor/dp/B005BZNDS0/ref=zg_tr_1292115011_2

I built a similar computer for a little more than you're spending ($700), but I had a better processor, better PSU and more RAM.

I think you can also get a better deal on Windows 7, especially if you're a student.



u/ReekuMF · 1 pointr/buildapc

I am not familiar with the Team Vulcan RAM listed, but I would suggest a CAS latency of 8 for DDR3-1600. I also would suggest scrapping the Hybrid drive for a SSD, such as the Samsung 840 EVO 250GB with a storage drive like Seagate Barracuda 1TB.

What kind of display are you using, what resolution do you plan on playing at? Are you determined to get the Windforce model? There are options just as good for $100 less, or in most cases a 970 is the better buy which could save you even more...

You definitely will not need a 750W PSU, a 500W will certainly suffice.

u/step1makeart · 3 pointsr/buildapc

For 20$ you should get a cooler master hyper 212+, it has a bigger fan (120mm vs. 92) and will easily allow you to reach the max "on air" overclock of that chip. The stock heatsink will easily allow 3.4 GHZ, possibly more. throw in a coolermaster 4 pack of 120mm case fans, put one on the other side of the hyper 212+, and three in the case. all your cooling needs taken care of for 30$ shipped

for 30$ you might as well get 2x4GB ram. these ones are great

the case and psu are good quality, though you can get the antec bp550w, which is modular, for 10$ more.

170$ for that video card seems pretty standard, with 140$ being even better if you get the rebate to come through.

Reading reviews of that mobo, it seems that the compatible ram list is pretty small, and ram issues seem to happen a lot to that board. in the 100$ range there are several am3+ mobo's which would fit your needs. I suggest going with one that has 2 pci-e x16 slots and runs them at (x16, x8) in crossfire or sli. the one you currently have is x16,x4 which will give less performance if you sli/crossfire down the road. if you don't think you'll crossfire, don't worry about that.



u/akimbonautilus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you are concerned about noise and want to spend that much on a CPU cooler I would suggest either the Noctua NH-D15 or the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 which is my personal favorite and in my current rig though it seems to be hard even to get here in the states right now so I'm guessing availability in Canada will be even tougher. If you will not be doing lots of video editing or heavy processing things then I think the 6600k will be fine. If you just want a quiet PC and some light overclocking and want to bring the price down then I would also suggest you look at something like the Cryorig H5 cooler which is about a sub $50 cooler in the U.S. but PCPartPicker seems to not be able to find any Canadian retailers for it. It would be my midrange suggestion for a cooler. The H7 has been very popular lately as well and that goes for about $35 USD or for less than that there is always the fan favorite Cooler Master 212 EVO. I see nothing wrong with the motherboard. I own a similar Gigabyte motherboard myself and it is great. All you really miss out on with that one is no SLI support. As for monitors in the future I would personally go for 144Hz over 1440P but that is personal preference. IPS would also be preferable to TN for photoshop but a 144Hz IPS will be very pricy (like $500+ and that's looking at prices here in the U.S.) and since it sounds like gaming is your primary use and Photoshop is your secondary use I would go with a 144Hz TN over a 60Hz IPS.

u/Captain_Midnight · 1 pointr/buildapc

The cooler you chose doesn't appear to be 1155 compatible; I'd recommend the other Cooler Master cooler.

$200 is a bit much for a system at this budget level. This is a much more reasonably priced SLI MB.

You can get a much faster Spinpoint F3 for the same price.

For that kind of money, you can get a much better case, like a Lian Li Lancool, Antec Dark Fleet DF-10 -- or use that money saved on the motherboard to bump up to a HAF 922, NZXT Whisper, a CM690 II Advanced, Thermaltake Armor, Dark Fleet FD-30, or a higher-grade Lian Li.

Corsair's CX series power supplies have a mixed reputation. For that price range, I'd recommend something like an XFX Core Edition. But we'd still have money left over after switching to that MSI board and getting a better case. So you can just get a nicer Corsair if you like, or take advantage of a July 4th sale and get this Antec HCG for $55 after a rebate and promo code EMCKCKJ43.

I also agree about bumping that video card up to a 560 Ti.

u/nubbinator · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You can save $5 by grabbing your mobo and OS together. Alternatively, buy it from Superbiiz along with your HDD and use the coupon code CHEERS to get $20 off the order.

Save yourself some more and grab the Hyper 212+ or Corsair A70. If you're buying your CPU from Newegg, grab the i5/A70 combo.

You can save yourself some money by grabbing a nice 8GB RAM kit and 6870 combo.

If you're dropping that much on a case, you might as well grab the nicer Antec P280.

Your PSU is overpriced. You can save money and get a better PSU with this FSP Aurum.

Lastly, if you really want to save some more, you can cut out the CD drive and install your OS with a flash drive.

u/Du6e · 1 pointr/buildapc

ah ok, just wanted to make sure the server wasn't on your system while having a bunch of people streaming off of it.

A 600w power supply is more than enough to drive an i7 and a 1080, you could just get better quality atx units.

When it comes to motherboards, all the major brands (ASUS, MSI, Gigabtye etc..) have great products.. so it's pretty much going to come down to what specific features you're looking for. I wouldn't bother paying extra for a good built in dac, especially when you're paying that type of money for a higher end build. Get an external dac if you're looking for good sound quality, along with some headphones. Depending on what you need, a Scarlett solo or FILO E10k are pretty good for the money. You also have a ton of options in the $100 - $200 when it comes to headphones.


IMO, this would be a better option.

Just seen that you're waiting for the monitors to go on sale. If you're tired of waiting, these ASUS panels are IPS, have small bezels and are Vesa compatible (100x100).

Changes;

u/Geezee22 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have had a great experience with my 1050 Ti SC, but you can get it cheaper here:
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-04G-P4-6253-KR/dp/B01MF7EQJZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498018511&sr=8-1&keywords=gtx+1050+ti+sc

And with that $20 I would highly recommend upgrading that CPU. You should really spend the vast majority of your money on the GPU and CPU (I think it is a mistake to spend more on your MOBO, case, and psu than your cpu). I think you could get an i5 in this build for sure if you get the gpu from amazon and find a less expensive mobo and psu (go with the 500 B from EVGA for great value if you don't mind non-modular).

Otherwise it looks like this is gonna be a great build!

u/osfrid · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Finally, after all these reviews, i'm going to buy these pieces and build my masterpiece-wannabe.

I would like to thanks /u/Raffles7683 for his dedicated, nice and smart help ! Also, thanks to /u/DIK-FUK and /u/golli123.



That's it, the final configuration, which is 2€ cheaper than the first one. WHAT A SAVE. But it's all the way better. I finally picked a I7-6700k as a CPU since nobody seems to know at which point a I5-6600k will bottleneck the GTX 1080, even with a 4.5 Ghz overclock. The debate is running litteraly everywhere and no one has the same point of view. So... I guess i can throw 100€ by the window to be sure and to overlock a i7 to 4.4 Ghz.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU |Intel Core i7-6700K | €325.79 - Amazon.it
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | €34.99 - Amazon.it
Motherboard | Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | €109.61 - Amazon.fr
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | €126.04 - Amazon.it
Storage | Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €74.00 - Amazon.es
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €53.44 - Amazon.fr
Video Card | KFA2 GeForce GTX 1080 EXOC 8GB Video Card | €560.00 - French shop
Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | €76.32 - Amazon.de
Power Supply | Corsair CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | €78.99 - Amazon.es
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus PCE-AC56 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | €48.00 - Amazon.de
Monitor | Acer XB271HU bmiprz 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor | €699.90 - French shop
| Total | €2187.08



  • The CPU has been edited according to /u/Raffles7683's review and /u/DIK-FUK's build suggest. And updated, because no one knows what is a bottleneck, in real world.
  • The RAM / SSD has been edited according to /u/Raffles7683's review, again.
  • The case has been edited according to /u/golli123's review


    I will provide some news in the future with, probably, in build photos :)
u/phillyd32 · 1 pointr/buildapc

What is the build's purpose? This is a pretty imbalanced gaming build but could be good for general use with some productivity and light gaming.

You're overspending on RAM, you're better off with a lower timings and lower speed sticks, for example this kit at 3200MHz CL16.

You should be going with an NVME drive at that price/GB, here is a great option by Sabrent.

For $84 you do have some other good cooler options, the Dark Rock Pro 4 and Noctua NH-D15S are other comparable options. The Noctua is the best for performance/noise by a small margin.

Also instead of spending $170 on an H500 and fans, just get the H510 Elite with the same fans and controller included, and you get a nicer glass front panel to show them off.

u/martindm03 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Ahhh, good 'ol LGA 1366, one of my favorite platforms of literally ALL TIME! You have a few options for upgrades definitely. I would recommend a Xeon x5670 as a great cheap CPU upgrade. You will also want a GPU upgrade, that old quadro FX is gonna be awful for any gaming, something like a GTX 1050 ti would be a great choice. You will also want some more RAM, upgrade that 4 GB to at least 8 GB. It will be DDR3 1066 or 1333 MHz most likely so get some of that. I actually run this exact CPU and GPU combination, a screenshot of my Xeon system here and it works very well for 1080p gaming. I also use it for 4k gaming with a bunch of older games, on my 4k TV.

Edit: Almost forgot! Also get a cheap 120 GB or 250 GB SSD! You may want to save a bit more money first though, these upgrades will be more than $150.

u/Purple_Deathstar · 2 pointsr/buildapc

you've got a good start, there are a couple of easy upgrades you could make to optimize your build.

you can upgrade your hard drive to a samsung f3 1TB for $5, and you could upgrade your graphics card to a GTX 560 for $20. both of those upgrades are worth it, and neither costs alot.

if you're planning on overclocking your 2500K, i would definitely add a CPU cooler like the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus. even if you're not overclocking, it's a good upgrade to keep your system's temperature down.

Don't forget to get a optical drive, especially if you plan on installing your OS from a disc. this is a cheap read/write drive, however if you want to play blu-rays; you'll need something like this. but you won't be able to burn discs with that drive.

if you're looking to save some money, you won't need 8GB of RAM unless you plan on dealing with large/complex files. 4GB is plenty for gaming. if you're going to be doing heavy video/photo/vector/3D editing, then 8GB is worth it. However; RAM is cheap right now; 8GB is no longer unreasonable for average users.

If you want to connect to a wireless connection, you'll need an adapter

don't forget your peripherals! unless you already own them, you'll need a keyboard, mouse and monitor.

you'll also need an OS; newegg carries all versions of windows 7. they have a good deal on 64-bit home premium OEM. I don't recommend getting a 32-bit operating system, 64-bit systems can emulate a 32-bit OS to run any 32-bit applications you may need. it is possible to install apple software, but it is a legal gray area. consult /r/hackintosh for more information.

have fun building, let me know how it goes!

u/WolfType · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Get This instead of that current CPU. This is cheaper and will actually give good performance during games. Look at the reviews.

The rest looks good, but use the money saved from the CPU to buy a better GPU. Maybe this (again, look at the reviews, the second one down especially.)

EDIT: Just realised you're below his budget currently :P Put all the left over money into a better and better GPU until it reaches the desired price.


Hope I helped.

u/lelibertaire · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here's a build. One thing you really need to look for is that your motherboard supports x8 dual channel PCI-e slots because that's the standard for crossfire. Don't buy a cheaper MoBo if it doesn't have that because in that case you might as well not crossfire.

I've added one that will work well in crossfire. I downgraded the PSU to save cash but the first you picked is great. 750W should be enough for crossfire. And really, you can look at the 840 EVO SSDs for a better value/performance. Just $10 more and you get much better performance than the 840s. Though I do have the 840 250 GB and it's great. It's not on PCPartPicker from what I see:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1377307697&sr=1-1&keywords=Samsung+840+evo

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $229.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $29.99 @ Microcenter
Motherboard | ASRock Z87 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $129.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $49.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 840 Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $176.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.98 @ Outlet PC
Video Card | MSI Radeon HD 7970 3GB Video Card (2-Way CrossFire) | $299.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | MSI Radeon HD 7970 3GB Video Card (2-Way CrossFire) | $299.99 @ Newegg
Case | Antec Three Hundred Two ATX Mid Tower Case | $57.99 @ Microcenter
Power Supply | XFX ProSeries 750W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $109.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) | $85.99 @ NCIX US
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $1517.87
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-23 21:35 EDT-0400 |

u/Boodahz · 1 pointr/buildapc

Good choice on the cpu. It is fantastic for gaming but you are paying for the K at the end.
You probably know already, but if you do not, intel's K series have an unlocked core multiplier meaning you can easily over clock them.

But in order to do so safely, you will need an aftermarket cooler. I suggest the CM-212 Plus. If you don't plan on the overclock, the locked core i5-2500 saves you a little bit.

I have that ram, and its great but if i did it again I would go with something like Crucial Ballistix which have better timings.

And finally, I would highly suggest the crucial m4 of Plextor m3 instead of the corsair.

EDIT: Here is my go-to $600USD list which might equate to around the price you are looking for.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-2120 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor | $116.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock Z77 Pro3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $102.55 @ Newegg
Memory | Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $41.99 @ Amazon
Hard Drive | Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $118.99 @ eCost
Video Card | XFX Radeon HD 6870 2GB Video Card | $179.99 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | Antec 450W ATX12V Power Supply | $34.98 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $645.48

u/RipInPepz · 1 pointr/buildapc

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i5-9600K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor | $259.89 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Scythe - Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler | $54.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | *ASRock - Z390 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $99.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $85.98 @ Newegg
Storage | ADATA - Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $94.99 @ Amazon
Storage | *Hitachi - Ultrastar 7K3000 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $52.33 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB Black Video Card | $479.99 @ B&H
Case | NZXT - H500i ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1352.94
| Mail-in rebates | -$35.00
| Total | $1317.94
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-18 17:48 EDT-0400 |

Stuck with Intel because that was your initial choice, didn't want to jump straight into a different platform on you.

Far better performance for your dollar. You will not notice a difference in gaming performance between the 9600k and 9700k because they got rid of the hyperthreading advantage on i7 CPUs. Now the only difference is 6 vs 8 core which again will do nothing in games.

I have this cooler on my 9600k @ 5ghz/1.35v and it keeps it around 55-60c in games. Other options are the scythe ninja 5, dark rock 4, dark rock pro 4. The corsair h100i is a massive waste of money.

Switched ram to 16gb because 32gb will do literally nothing for you if you're gaming and doing office work.

Swapped to a different 1tb SSD with the same performance without the samsung upcharge. If you wanted to get a much faster drive for the same price as the 860 evo check out this and this, but a sata SSD is more than enough. The su800 is a great drive.

2070 with the leftover budget because it is a massive upgrade from the 1660ti. However if you're only gaming at 1080p just stick with a 2060 and save some money.

Swapped to a better PSU, and 750w was overkill. This and the rm650x(2018) are both top tier options.

The mobo is fine but now you have money for a slightly nicer one if you need any extra features or want to go for bigger overclocks.

u/jwstump2 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Well, under $400, you have some of these options (TN Panels):

u/helpimtooawesome · 1 pointr/buildapc

You could go for the Hyper 212 for slightly less and you could save on the SSD or ditch it which if I'm honest is definitely the best option. SSDs are a luxury not a necessity. At least IMHO.
You could stand to wait for Haskell you're not going to lose anything except gaming time.
I have the Fractal R4 and love it. Spending money on a good case is never wasted as you can always use a good case again. I plan to keep mine for many future builds. Read the reviews on it.

u/CuppaJoe12 · 1 pointr/buildapc

This is a nice looking build. It will definitely outperform the PS4 and Xbox 1. [Here is a side by side comparison with a gtx 760 build, the ps4 and the xbox 1] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4z4igRnlLQ#t=130).

Looking at GPU benchmarks for the 760 will give you a good idea of what framerates to expect. [Tom's Hardware] (http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-760-review-gk104,3542.html) has a great review with some benchmarks. It looks like you should be able to max out pretty much every game at 1080p and 60 fps except for the most demanding games out right now like Crysis 3 which are still playable. Turning down the settings a little on Crysis 3 gets it to over 40 fps, which is more than playable.

The only change I would suggest is adding a SSD if you can afford it. The [Samsung EVO 120GB] (http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726) is on sale right now and is a great drive for the price. However, don't get it if it means that you need to downgrade your CPU or GPU.

Also, make sure you have a 1080p monitor. This the 760 will blow any game out of the water at less than 1080p, so there is no point in getting this card over the cheaper 750 ti. If you don't already have a 1080p monitor and don't want to get one, I would suggest you save money and downgrade to the 750 ti.

u/kramer314 · 1 pointr/buildapc

> I opted for two mDP connections because I basically don't know any better. I think the Dell monitors in my office right now have both HDMI and MDP ports. If I can reliably run a dual monitor setup on Linux with a one-port card then that is great news. Thanks!

You want a two-port card, but pretty much any card will have that. You just might need to get an adapter cable since mDP is a pretty rare connection on most cards outside of workstation / signage cards. For instance, something like https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-04G-P4-6253-KR/dp/B01MF7EQJZ/ would have both better graphics performance than that Quadro K1200 and is $100 less. You'd just need an HDMI cable and a DisplayPort to mDP cable (both cheap).

> So what's the deal with Intel's integrated graphics? Would that be sufficient for me?

That processor (and all of the X99 processors) doesn't have integrated graphics. You need a graphics card if you want to go with a high-end chip like that.

u/Eternal_Ohm · 1 pointr/buildapc

Noctua has a good reputation for having some of the best performing fans though they are a bit pricey maybe because of the demand for them if spending $20 or more per case fan is too much going for cheaper fan's wouldn't be the worse idea as replacing a fan is easier these fan's are pretty cheap and it comes with 3 of them Noctua also has some of the best CPU Coolers

Here's a couple of CPU coolers if they cost too much there's a couple others I can think of

Noctua NH-D15 one of the best coolers by noctua the FSP case may have trouble mounting this.

Noctua NH-U14S a more budget cooler but still capable might be a bit louder then the D15 the FSP case may have trouble mounting this

Dark Rock Pro 4 one of the most recommended CPU coolers I've seen at the moment probably because of it's price for a dual heat sink tower cooler the FSP case may have trouble mounting this

​

Corsair H115i a very high end Liquid cooler it's expensive but it'll definitely get the job done might have better overclocking performance as AIO cooler's don't suffer from stark changes in temperatures with an air cooler you may see temperature spikes for example your CPU is sitting at 40 C and it jumps up to 50 C for a second and then quickly climbs back down this is pretty rare for an AIO Liquid cooler

with all the clearance issue's with the FSP case you could look into this case it would be wide enough to fit all cooler's I mentioned here while also not being too expensive

u/glennfk · 0 pointsr/buildapc

I would spend less on the PSU. Yuo could dip down a bit on the motherboard side and still get quality, but not a lot. Jump down on the PSU and 2TB to 1TB and you can almost afford a 250GB SSD http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W1726/

Save 5 bucks on ram http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XQEQT4/
Save 35 on motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157460
Save 25 on PSU http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139050

That's 75 bucks, more than enough to cover the 250GB SSD. If you really like the mobo you have (I don't blame you), you can save almost 30 if you step down to the 1TB model of that HDD.

u/opant108 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here is what I built last month.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor | $369.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H100i PRO 75.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $109.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock - Z370M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $126.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $142.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 Video Card |-
Case | Phanteks - Enthoo EVOLV ITX TG (Black) Mini ITX Desktop Case | $86.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $78.20 @ B&H
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $94.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1209.81
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $1159.81
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-17 09:12 EDT-0400 |


I originally had the Hyper 212 EVO just as you do on your list but found it to not be sufficient enough for the 8700K, especially if you overclock it (otherwise just get the 8700). You can get an NH-D15 or something similar from CRYORIG or be quiet! but they'll be bulky and make getting in to replace RAM or do other things more difficult, as you will most likely have to take off the cooler to get to your components. I found the H100i Pro from Corsair to be easy to install and it makes the inside look much more appealing than having a huge heatsink in the middle of everything. This was my first time using water cooling and it being an AIO, made everything hassle free and much easier to install than the Hyper 212 EVO, whose brackets make it a pain sometimes to install. I also like that using the iCUE software, you can have the H100i PRO change color according to its temperature, so it makes monitoring temps during games easy, as you can just look at the color of the AIO and you know if it is staying cool or hot. Lastly, and most importantly, the temps are much lower using it than the Hyper 212 EVO so if you have the extra money, you might want to go that route as it has many advantages.

u/slicehix · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm in the market for a new Video Card. I've been using a 5770 for a few years now and have been saving up. Unfortunately, I don't have the biggest budget (diapers are expensive and my son is fond of pooping). As much as I'd love to go for a 770, I can't go more than $300. I'd prefer something in the $200 - $250 range, as I'm also in the market for a new monitor.

Here are the video card and monitor that I'm currently leaning towards:

XFX Double D FX-795A-TDFC Radeon HD 7950

Asus VS247H-P 24-Inch Full-HD LED-Lit Monitor

Are these good options? I know a lot of people strongly dislike XFX, but others praise them. The reviews on Newegg and Amazon seem favorable for the video card, but there are some negative ones in the mix. XFX seems to be responsive to those negative ones. And a lifetime warranty is extremely alluring (granted the lifetime warranty on my BFG PSU doesn't really amount for much nowadays).

Should I wait for the 760? I feel like the 7950 looks just as good and I can find those on sale in the $260 range, while the 760 will probably be a firm $300 - 320 for a bit.

Any suggestions or thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

u/Kuroonehalf · 1 pointr/buildapc

I see, so lots of cores is a good thing for this type of work, huh? Alright, so I looked up the AMD processors on this local website and found this one with 6 cores - AMD FX 6300 3.5Ghz BE SkAM3+ (also on Amazon), at 108€.
This should do the trick?

For RAM, 4 of these sounds alright? I don't usually go too high in layers though. Maybe 50~ max. But perhaps it's best to plan ahead and get it for if I do need it in the future.

Also, I must reiterate I don't intend to be able to play new games on max settings. I just want them to be playable on a basic level. I can do just fine without AA and some of the fancier settings. I'd prefer to get something just good enough and instead save the leftover money for other things I plan to get next, like the Cintiq. If somehow I could get all this by much lower than 700€, that'd be great. :p

u/TaedusPrime · 1 pointr/buildapc

Shipping a case is usually free through amazon or newegg.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $194.89 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $34.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H170-GAMING 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $99.67 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $91.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $58.79 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card | $379.99 @ Newegg
Case | NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case | $66.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $44.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $987.19
| Mail-in rebates | -$15.00
| Total | $972.19
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-06 23:01 EST-0500 |

Made some changes for better value/performance.

Change cpu to 6500 instead of 6600k. You don't have a z170 board for overclocking so it's wasted. The 6500 is nearly identical unless you overclock with a 6600k+z170.

Changed psu to much better seasonic modular gold. It's on sale on Newegg for 60 bucks. A steal.

Changed gpu to more popular gigabyte model, cheaper.

Added case since I was still under 1k. Very popular s340 but you could use anything under 100 bucks and stay under budget.

Changed cooler to Cryorig H7. The 212+ is nice but needs a break and the H7 looks way better.

I know you mentioned staying with Amazon but much of this wasn't in stock and Newegg has free shipping. Just a thought.

Edit: The cooler is cheaper and is on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478491544&sr=8-1&keywords=cryorig+h7

u/Twinewhale · 1 pointr/buildapc

Following the "modesty is best policy" principles I would recommend a few things here:

  • Go with the really good main monitor, looks like you got the 27 inch 1440p 144hz Acer. (This is freesync btw. I recommend the Dell S2716DGR for the G-Sync - AMD vs Nvidia) and pick up a 1080p side monitor.

  • Ditch the liquid cooling. It's an unnecessary hassle for anyone other than PC enthusiasts in the OC communities. A Cooler Master or the Noctua (if you have enough room in your case.) Both will provide ample cooling and your CPU will last just as long as with a liquid cooling kit.

  • In combo with the above, my favorite case so far (after 4 PC builds for myself and family) is the Corsair Carbide 540 High Airflow ATX Cube. Lots of room for cables in the back and gives your components a nice display with LOTS of airflow.

  • I would, however, recommend going to an M.2 SSD, which is significantly faster than a standard SSD. Not much of a price jump there.

    I see others have spoken about overclocking your CPU and such already. My opinion is to skip overclocking. For the standard gamer wanting a quality experience that is getting a top of the line CPU, there's zero need to OC. I went with the i7-7700 non 'k' version and have been plenty happy. It saved some money too.

    Keep in mind your peripherals. Usually those are overlooked when upgrading your PC, but maybe it's time for a new mouse/keyboard, new controller, headphones, etc.

    Also if you're dad is giving you a budget, is he giving you the money to spend, or buying the stuff for you? If you don't get the remaining money from $3k, maybe you should include those things now instead of later.
u/Razorx1970 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Asus Prime B450M-A/CSM AMD Ryzen... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKV5HWJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 X... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4G525F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

SanDisk SSD PLUS 1TB Internal SSD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D998212?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

That’s what we bought and he had a case already and I believe a 520Watt PSU

I also gave him my Asus RTX-2060 6gb. Any case or 2060 card will do the trick tho, that stuff is all about the same performance wise.

Works freaking great. I was very impressed with the performance. It ran almost as good as my 2060 did in my i5 9600k in games. I upgraded to a 2080 Super which is the only reason I gave up the 2060. And if I hadn’t got a 49 super ultra wide monitor I could have stuck with the 2060.

On a single screen it worked great

u/_Skylake_ · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here's a copy/paste of a PM I sent somebody yesterday in regards of building a budget build. It may be worded weirdly since it was a direct message to him, buy you get the idea

_____

CPU


(and motherboard)

Are you familiar with Sandy/Ivy bridge processors? They're a godsend for budget computers (2500k/3570k). At 1080p gaming they perform near all the newer generation Intel processors.

Best thing? You can easily grab a 2500k from /r/hardwareswap for ~$100-$110. Hopefully you could find a 2500k/3570k motherboard combo for ~$180 shipped.

Pair that with a Cryorig H7 from Amazon ($35) and overclock the processor to 4.0-4.5ghz and you have a processor booming in performance for cheap!

So, to recap, look into getting 2500k or a 3570k . Both are LGA 1155 processors and share the same motherboards. Buy from /r/hardwareswap and get your motherboard there, too

PSU


It's best to buy PSU new.



Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $61.99 @ SuperBiiz

Priced great for a terrific PSU.

CPU cooler $35


Cryorig H7

Keeps my 2500k @ 4.5ghz cool at low temps at low noise. I can't suggest this cooler enough.

Storage


Hopefully you can find a SSD on /r/hardwareswap. I suggest this route: Get a 250gb SSD now and hold off on getting a HDD. The 250gb will hold you for a while and the money you would have spent on the HDD can go elsewhere. You can add a HDD in a few months when you actually need more storage.

Case


You're going to be hard pressed to find a case on /r/hardwareswap due to high price in shipping. Keep an eye out on /r/buildapcsales or take a look over at Corsair refurbished (notice the tabs on the left side for components) or just but new

RAM


Ram is cheap enough. I've noticed RAM prices over at /r/hardwareswap is near the price of new. So, your call there. If you're using a case with a window, and since you'll be using DDR3 RAM, and want some type of color scheme I suggest these (and I do suggest getting 8gb of RAM, you'd be wasting money on more and you can always add more RAM later)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury White 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $36.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Red 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $34.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Red 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $40.98 @ PCM
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Blue 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $29.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury White 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $35.89 @ Amazon
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Blue 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $33.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $212.83
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-03 00:49 EDT-0400 |

There is a 1600mhz and 1866mhz variant of the three colors. I linked all of them so you'd see all the prices. Right now the 2x4gb 1600mhz blue is $30 which is a nice price, and the 1866mhz 2x4gb Blue
is $34 (Sandy/Ivy bridge love fast ram, might be worth the extra $4)

GPU


This is where things are kinda in the grey area. Current generation GPUs are about to fall in face value like the USA housing market did in 2009. I highly suggest building the entire computer first minus the GPU. Once AMD releases the Rx 480 at $200, all current GPUs will be forced to fall in price. If the Rx 480 performs like it is marketed to, we could see the R9 390 get sold on /r/hardwareswap for like ~$180, which is insane.

So, to recap, build the PC now taking your time on /r/hardwareswap scoping out for good prices on stuff, and by the time you have the PC built GPU prices should be in your favor.


Pretty sure I covered everything there. If I missed anything or if you have any questions let me know. Again, 2500k/3570k is your ticket to performance on the cheap.

You'd be surprised how close in performance the new Skylake processors are to the older Sandy/Ivy (2500k/3570k) are. Watch this video (note: those are the i7 variants, but makes the same difference with the i5's) Used 2500k/3570k (both basically sdame processor, the 3570k vbeing a little better) i5 is the best bang for buck processor on the market.

When it comes to gaming, DDR3 and DDR4 make almost no difference, in some cases DDR3 does better with gaming. Here is Linus saying so

u/jtrias21 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Sounds good my friend! Yeah, hopefully the i7 Skylakes normalize.

I prefer Noctuas myself, and I'm not sure if you've heard of Cryorig, they're a newcomer in the CPU cooling business. I sound like a salesman but I'm actually considering one of their coolers called the H7, it's almost similar to performance to Noctua U12S, but priced close to the CM 212 EVO @ $34.99, while looking great with a black top-plate. I was browsing builds on PCPartpicker with the Cryorig and I've been drooling at the aesthetics. But you can't go wrong with Noctuas! I've used the L9i & U9S and they're amazing!

Cryorig H7 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S7YA5FQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A2ZKSOM6XK2G3G

u/albpeter · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Your build is pretty similar to mine and i'm using the Asus Rog Swift PG279Q. It's a bit expensive even for a few year old monitor but its amazing and still top of the line. 1440p at 144hz and can switch to 165hz. Gsync & ips with 2 Display Ports (recommend) and HDMI ports. I personally removed my 2nd monitor when upgrading to this 1 because of the sheer size and resolution, it actually feels better to scale multiple windows right in front of me when multitasking rather than turning to other monitors. Playing games and watching movies is by far the best viewing experience I've ever had.

https://www.amazon.com/PG279Q-2560x1440-G-SYNC-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B017EVR2VM

my build https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qRxxwV

u/Nimrodor · 2 pointsr/buildapc

For the SSD, the Adata SU800 uses a reliable 40nm TLC flash like the Samsung 850 Evo and MX300. It's not as fast as the others, but that makes no real-world difference.

For monitors, I'd be looking at 1440p or 120Hz to pair with your 1070; that GPU will be a waste on a 1080p monitor. The Qnix 2710 is a very cheap IPS 1440p monitor that is known to overclock to 100Hz+ fairly commonly; however, it has a strong backlight bleed which many don't like. This Acer is 1440p IPS, doesn't overclock well, but has better picture quality than the Qnix. Depending on whether or not you want G sync, you can get 1080p 144Hz monitors for anywhere between $200 and $400.

The GPU you picked out also doesn't have a backplate. The front of it color matches great, but the back of it (the side you'll actually see through the window) is just a bare PCB. You can get EVGA's best 1070 variant with a backplate for the same price as that Asus; it's a much, much better idea from both a performance and aesthetic standpoint.

u/digitalRistorante · 1 pointr/buildapc

Here's what I would do: MSI Krait edition motherboard + Corsair Dominator Platinum Series RAM sticks. It is a better overclocking mobo and you get the style points for a black/white build. Also, the RAM is faster so you're a little bit more futureproofed. The Cryorig H7 is replacing the 212 in terms of the go-to air cooler, otherwise the Corsair water cooling kit is a great option as well (also fits color scheme). I'm personally recommending 240GB since I've filled up my 120GB with games and programs twice now before I had to do some cleaning. I also like this case better, plus you can remove drive bays to make room for larger GPUs, if you are still undecided about which one you want. I wouldn't worry about M.2, I got that SSD and never ended up using it. If you do end up building this, please do take pics :)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $345.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $34.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI Z170A KRAIT GAMING 3X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $149.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Dominator Platinum Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz | $109.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
SSD | Kingston SV300S37A/240G | 67.86 @ Amazon
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon RX 480 8GB Video Card |-
Case | Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case | $54.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | ~$903.80
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-14 19:36 EDT-0400 |

u/K9H13NO3_runner · 1 pointr/buildapc

Oh great, I can get away with a 620W PSU? That card looks like it will fit what I'm doing perfectly.


For the air cooler, will a $20 fan cause any noise?

Thanks for your suggestions!

edit: Would this fan do well?

u/7Arach7 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I think by FPS you're referring to how may it can show (Hz), which in that case possible to somewhat overclock monitors. If you're into FPS, I would recommend sticking with a higher Hz.

Third-Party 1080s are already coming out (IIRC) so you can probably find them in 1-2 weeks. The new AMD GPUS are being announced on the 1st, and will launch mid-summer (or earlier).

G-Sync and FreeSync do something different. Instead of limiting FPS, they actually adjust the Hz of the monitor. V-Sync is the original - what this did to reduce or eliminate tearing (when the monitor is receiving a new image before it can render the previous one, causing a de-sync image across the monitor) is simply make it so that your computer wouldn't output more than 60/120/144 FPS (depending on monitor Hz). G-Sync and FreeSync both actually move the Hz of the monitor around - if you're at 120 FPS, the monitor will display at 120Hz. 78 FPS? 78Hz. FreeSync works through mostly software, while G-Sync requires an expensive chip (sold by NVIDIA) to be implanted in the monitor (hence the price jump). This is a 27'', 1440p, G-Sync monitor...$$$ This doesn't have g-sync or a super-fast response time, but fits the size build otherwise. G-Sync is outrageously expensive (team red FTW, cfx, freesync).

Eh - You could go for that audio, and it would work. However, I really do think that people benefit from nicer audio. Gaming headsets are okay, but for the most part offer sub-par audio and a shitty mic for their price point, in exchange for "gamery" aesthetics. Something like the Audio-Technica M40X are around $70 and will give you very, very good sound. If you need audio to go along with it, you can either pick up a new audio cable with a built in mic (m40x have detachable cables) or something like the antlion mod-mic.

u/goldenyoshi · 1 pointr/buildapc

Monitor Not sure what the difference is, but its a whole lot cheaper.

PSU Save you $20 and still enough to power your rig. Also modular.

RAM You don't want to pay the extra for $30 MIR to save a few bucks.

GPU Keep the boost or wait for a better sale on the 7870.


EDIT:You might be able to find someone selling a cheap windows 7 key at /r/hardwareswap or if you're in college you might be able to get it free or discounted with msdnaa

u/BitOfAZeldaFan · 1 pointr/buildapc

One option is to upgrade your CPU. The i5 4690k for $250 is the fastest cpu in your price range that your motherboard will support.

Another option, which will be better in the long run, would be to upgrade to the latest platform. This would mean a re-build with a new cpu, motherboard, and RAM. Personally, I recommend Ryzen unless you ONLY use your computer to play AAA gaming titles.

Honestly, in the end, my recommondation is to save that $300 until it grows a bit more and upgrade to the newest platform.

Unless of course you're like me, and love buying computer parts and tinkering this very moment -- in which case go for the 4690k.

u/felcress · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah, it would be best to stick with 1080/144hz.

Seeing your graphics card, I think the ViewSonic XG2401 would be the best choice then.
The monitor has really great reviews, saying that it has great colors, nice build quality, etc. Some cons I read up on though was that the monitor only supports 44-144hz for freesync, and the menu sucked.

u/PrinceOfPandaz · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have this cooler, slightly annoying to set up but a good cooler for the price.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-16PK-R1-Performance-Universal/dp/B0068OI7T8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449654244&sr=8-1&keywords=cooler+master+hyper+212+evo
Used to have this headset good quality sound and the mic sounds good, simulated 7.1 is good aswell for the price.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Plantronics-GameCom-788-Gaming-Headset/dp/B00LNJZTTY/ref=pd_cp_147_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1PY9QKDZ31F262YH8NGT
WIFI adapter is just a generic one from amazon it's fine for the price really
http://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-A6210-100PES-AC1200-802-11AC-Adapter/dp/B00OT586RQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449654430&sr=8-2&keywords=wifi+adapters
Keyboard there are some options but for £20 you might not get a great one I would recommend saving and getting a decent mechanical keyboard, it really is worth it. This corsair is a good shout at £65 but it is tenkeyless if that bothers you.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CH-9000040-UK-Vengeance-Performance-Mechanical/dp/B00DOTQ15M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449654646&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair+keyboard
Edit: added wifi card and keyboard bit

u/MizDiana · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I didn't shop around for deals, but get something like this for PSU (I just pulled this randomly from Amazon, may be cheaper elsewhere):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-RM550x-Modular-Power-Supply/dp/B015PWMRI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505751416&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair%2Brm550&th=1

Your build doesn't use that much power & that PSU will go silent for low usage loads. I'd also probably get a quiet-oriented case, though some people love their windows. For cooler I'd probably save some money by going for a good air cooler I can re-use over and over. Like this classic:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/noctua-NH-D15-Noctua/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1505751584&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=noctua+d-15

u/Krono5_8666V8 · 1 pointr/buildapc
  • /r/hardwareswap is a buyer's market, but a little risky unless you do your homework on the seller

  • Ebay is fairly safe considering the buyer protection from both ebay and paypal.

        You can easily get a GTX 770 2GB for $200-220 on either site, assuming it will fit in your case (since your mobo is micro-ATX) and your PSU can handle it. The recommended PSU size on the Nvidia website is 550W for the GTX 570, and 600W for the GTX 770, but those are overestimates.

        Your RAM is the recommended amount so that's fine as is

        With your current mobo you can't really upgrade the CPU which is just okay.
    In the short term, getting a 770 will probably see the most improvement in games, but you should also consider getting a FX-6300 for $100, and a suitable motherboard. A very solid option is this board, although it's $125 plus tax and ($2) shipping, with a $10 mail-in rebate.

    If you went the CPU/mobo route, you could look into getting a second 570 and running SLI assuming you have the power to run it. You could also possibly afford a used 760 once you sell your current card. This guy for example is selling one for $160 OBO, although I haven't looked into his credibility.
u/erenzil7 · 1 pointr/buildapc

unless you're going for 144Hz, 2700x is better. sure you lose 5-10 fps, but when your average is 120, and you have a freesynz 75hz panel, it doesn't make a difference.

Lookit, this deal right here. 100 USD less than i5, let's say god B450 or X470 is 50 USD more, that still leaves you with 50 bucks to spend on gamepad, better screen or beer.

​

Don't get me wrong, 6 core i5's are AMAZING, but their price is shit right now. I mean 8400 (in my region) went from 200USD to 250USD (tax included) in less than a month, while 2600 is was 200 and still is 200USD, offers 2 times more threads, and platform itself has better upgrade path (AMD will do their Zen2 7nm for AM4 socket).

i5's are great, but you're being a fanboy right here.

u/piccolo_balcanico · 8 pointsr/buildapc

Here is a thing that a lot of people seem to be missing out. Your CPU doesn't support higher speed RAM sticks. It supports dual channel at 2667MHz MAX. So you need a CPU that can support higher speed, because AMD LOOOOOOOOOVES RAM. Your motherboard supports up to 3200 MHz OC. The second thing is that you need two exactly matching sticks in order to get the most of your dual channel.

So my suggestion if you are on a budget (because everything else you have seems good) is to do this:

  1. Change your CPU to a Ryzen 5 2600 (or 2600X) - there are a lot of great deals right now ( https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48 ). This CPU supports up to 3000MHz dual channel RAM and has better processing power than the one you have.
  2. Buy the exact same 8GB or 16GB RAM stick you already have - make sure they are exactly the same. Even though 32GB is going to be overkill at least you will get the most of your dual channel. IF you can't find anything then get a 2x8GB or 2x16GB kit @ 3000MHz.
  3. Sell the CPU and the left-over ram stick to get some money back.

    N.B. Do not add the extra RAM into your matching kit on the board. You will jeopardise dual channel.

    Good luck and don't forget to update your drivers
u/xandarg · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Consider changing your SSD for one of these 1TB models--then you may be able to dump the HDD altogether unless you have lots of storage needs. Samsung tax means they're nearly the same price for double the size, and only slightly less performance in benchmarks (but in real world terms, you wouldn't be able to tell a side-by-side difference in boot times/game load times/etc.):

  • Inland Premium
  • Sabrent Rocket

    You would only lose on average about 3 FPS if you downgraded the 3600X to a 3600 (save $50).

    You would gain around 10-30 FPS by upgrading to the newly release 2070 Super (instead of a regular 2070) and the price is only $5 more, though lots of places are on back order for the next week or so.

    You could definitely save money on the PSU with something like this, which would still probably be overkill for your build, but I understand the will to not skimp on PSU quality.

    Edit: Oh, and don't forget to update your motherboard BIOS to a version that supports Ryzen 3000 before you put in the new CPU. And make sure your board has a stable BIOS that supports Ryzen 3000 -- I've been waiting weeks to upgrade to a 3600 so I don't buy an MSI B450 board and end up with BIOS problems, though they say they'll have a stable release with the latest AMD microcode by the end of the month :)
u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yes, the motherboard audio goes unused. There is switch on the unit for a mild bass boost but I don't recommend using it. All you will do is add distortion to your sound. Headphones are not capable of even producing truly low frequencies, if you want that then use a subwoofer. Any sort of audio setting that claims to boost frequency is just dumping more power into a specific range, sacrificing clarity of everything else.

What headphones do you have? Chances are that if they have an attached mic they aren't really high-end. Check the impedance, anything between 5 and 35Ω doesn't need an amp. 35-150 is fine with a smaller amp like the one in the FiiO E10K. Anything above that calls for a dedicated unit.

This is the unit I linked in my original comment:

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

u/franticredditperson · 2 pointsr/buildapc

you are suppose to go there but, im just gonna help you anways with the setup, make a 600 pc and for th setup it self add a https://www.amazon.com/Acer-XFA240-bmjdpr-Response-Technology/dp/B06ZYHZ6R6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=1ms+144hz&qid=1561946985&s=electronics&sr=1-3 as a monitor and for the setup its self buy a ducky and a good heaset like the cloudstinger or the razer kraken x i dont know and for wifi please buy a pci adapter or ethernet if your motherboard doesnt come with wifi and buy a good mouse like the g502 or gpro

u/krunchybacon · 1 pointr/buildapc

There's a few things, first of all Intel K series cpu's don't come with a cooler in the box, so you will need one. A good (but pricey) cpu cooler is the Noctua NH-D15. If you would like something more affordable the Cryorig H7 will work, although the temps will be higher than the former.

Yes, all desktop ram will fit into all desktop motherboards (sodimm or laptop ram will not).

The hard drive you selected doesen't have great reviews, for $8 more you can get a [WD Blue](https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK

/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537074431&sr=1-1&keywords=western+digital+-+caviar+blue+1tb+3.5%22+7200rpm+internal+hard+drive) or a Seagate Barracudda, both more reputable.

The cases you linked are good for their price, but you will most likely need 1-2 more case fans as they only come with 1. If you would like some cheap fans these will do, but they wont be as good as something like the Noctua NF-F12

Dont worry about asking questions! It's what we are here for :) I'm sure I missed something, so if you have any other questions make sure to ask!

Edit 1: Do you already have windows? If not make sure to but it, as you wont have an Operation System without it (Unless you want to run linux).








u/TransientBananaBread · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Have you taken a look at the ViewSonic XG2401? From Tom's Hardware:

> It offers the best contrast we've measured outside of a VA panel. It has superb color accuracy; good enough to burn through graphics tasks if need be. And it's just as fast and responsive as more expensive monitors.

One thing I will mention is that backlight bleed is pretty much a luck of the draw thing, like coil whine on a graphics card (though it is typically not too terrible if it does happen). Really the only way to reduce the likelihood of backlight bleed is to buy an expensive panel.

u/Safkoo · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'll start off by saying $2500 will get you 5x what you need to play these games, the PC I built for about $930 after rebates and all runs H1Z1 at an average of about 110 fps on a 1920×1200 monitor. However, if you so pursue to spend this much money and that is your wish I have some opinions on the build. I would go the GTX 1070 to save some cash, the 1080 is certainly overkill. I would upgrade your RAM to 16GB DDR4, that is something that is very nice and almost necessary to run some games efficiently nowadays (I know a friend who plays H1Z1 on 8GB of ddr3 RAM and he complains it is always is capping out for him and causing FPS lag, I don't know if this is from H1Z1 alone but alone H1 uses 4GB or RAM on average. This isn't accounting for anything else you may be doing. Next, with that budget get a better PSU, I would recommend a modular, 650-800W PSU that is gold plated such as this. If you can afford to get a nice PSU it is worth ensuring all your stuff won't get fried or damaged in the long run. The only other thing I got would be the monitors(s) portion. I play COD competitively and also take some games very seriously on PC so for me I personally would get a BenQ 144hz monitor, but that is a preference of mine... and I also prefer to stay away from Dell monitors, go get anything but Dell in my opinion. Hope I helped!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $188.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Asus PRIME H270-PLUS-CSM ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $84.99
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $84.99
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.99
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB Dual Video Card | $194.77 @ OutletPC
Case | Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case | $54.99
Power Supply | Corsair CXM 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $14.99
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $109.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $883.59
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $863.59
| Generated by PCPartPicker

u/newage321 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hey friends!
I found this pc at costco for $1299. Its the 16GB ram, 1TB HDD, 256GB SSD if that doesn't come over in link.

I tried to match the parts in it and couldn't come close. Its for a friend who wants to game the latest games at pretty high settings.

So is this a good buy? If so Whats a goof 1440p monitor to pair with it? I found this one to be pretty well rated, just worried about screen tear on FPS. This is the one they pair with it if you want to spend the dosh on it.


Any help would be appreciated!

u/WNCaptain · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You may have swapped his words.

It's best IMHO to put your OS and most-used applications on your SSD and put everything else on the HDD. This way, your OS boots extremely fast and your most used applications come up almost instantly.

Also, a 1-2tb SSD is extremely expensive. I find a 250GB SSD (Samsung 840 EVO comes to mind) to be a good sweet spot between cost and size.


Edit: Now you've got it correct :) I'd recommend the SSD I linked above then get a 7200rpm Western Digital 1-2tb HDD for everything else. That'd get you a pretty optimal setup as far as storage goes unless you planned on utilizing RAID.

u/fullfire55 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Can anyone recommend a good cooling fan for my CPU on my pc? Issue is I'm not sure what sort of details I need to give for this.

I've been using my stockfan for sometime in my PC but it's now got super loud and my computer is randomly restarting, leading me to believe that its time to upgrade to some better cooling. As well as replacing the thermal paste which hasn't been done in a few years. But I know what to buy thermal paste wise.

Thinking of going for this as I can get it very quickly: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-16PK-R1-Heatpipe/dp/B0068OI7T8/

u/MoogleMan3 · 0 pointsr/buildapc

Generally you only need to upgrade if it sounds bad, but a better set of headphones will make the biggest difference, then a headphone amp, then a dac.

What headphones are you using? And is your budget set at $50?

$76 will get you the fiio e10k, which is a good first-time dac/amp.

$110 gets you the fiio k3, which is the successor to the e10k and brings a ton of improvements.

The FX-Audio DAC X6 is a good budget option, especially if you just want to test the waters.

Lots of other options too; audio can become a slippery slope lol

u/12bitmisfit · 1 pointr/buildapc

for ssd my go to is the sabrent 1tb.

Otherwise it looks good. You don't need the aftermarket cooler as the stock one is quite good, but if you enable precision boost in ryzen master you might want the extra thermal headroom. It looks like you have the hyper 212 rgb added, I've used the non rgb one before, its total overkill for a 65w chip but its a great value.

u/Roman_nvmerals · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've got an i5-750 (yes old but it's doing well) with the stock cooler on it and I'd love a new aftermarket cooler so I can try some overclocking. Gigabyte P55A-UD3 mobo.

SHould I get this cooler? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7YA5FQ/ref=psdc_11036281_t1_B01IBSR18G

I think it will fit my mobo socket and I think it should work well.

Or is there something of better value?

u/NathanHammerTime · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm looking to buy a graphics card for my first PC build (which will happen in the next few months) because I got a relatively substantial amazon gift card. Literally the only game I play is Rocket League, and it's the only game I plan on playing. What is my best value option?

I don't have a 4k monitor (nor do I intend to get one) so I'm really not trying to run everything at max settings/max fps. I just want something that will run the game well enough on high settings.

My current thought is this one but if this one would help me that much more, I think I'd be willing to dish out the cash. Or if there's an entirely different one that would work best for my needs then by all means suggest another!

u/lss97 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The GTX 760 would be a strong performer if you are targeting a $250 budget. Also take a look at the R9 270X which is marginally slower than the GTX 760 but is sometimes $30+ cheaper.

The i5-4670k or i5-4570 (if not overclocking) are definitely the best processors for pure gaming (aside from very expensive enthusiast CPU's) However they don't fit everyone's budget, which is why a lot of people go with i3's or AMD's FX-6300/FX 8350.

For a 1080p monitor I strongly recommend an IPS monitor for better viewing angles and colour reproduction. A sample monitor is this one: http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-VS239H-P-23-Inch-Full-HD-Monitor/dp/B008DWITHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395883809&sr=8-1&keywords=asus+vs239

u/mikey10006 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

hmm well i have a viewsonic xg2401 and i love it but if you could do without freesync try something like ASUS VG248QE or the BenQXL2411Z. i've also heard great thing about the Nixeus vue24. Just giving a few options. I'll do some research and come back with some 60hz option with freesync.
Note: The Asus and the Benq dont support freesync.
The Viewsonic and the nixeus do support freezync.

u/AsianSurgeonHands · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Looks great. As for the GPU, wait until the new GPUs are announced and to be honest, a 970 will be more than capable to run AAA games for a while. But, I would recommend the R9 390 because PCMR Hivemind.

For the monitor, if you want a cheap one, there is the BenQ XL2411Z for $274.19. It's 1080p 24" 144hz, but no G-Sync for your 970 I'm afraid. Your build should be able to run basically all games on ultra settings, even CPU intensive ones if you overclock the 6600k.

If you prefer higher resolution (not size) and good colours, I would recommend the Acer G257HU smidpx for $254.10. 25" 1440p IPS and 1ms response time.

If you want large monitors, purchase 1440p or higher as 1080p monitors start pixelizing around 27". But beware you might need to sacrifice fps or higher settings.

Please don't take my word for gospel, do some research and enjoy ascending.

u/JustNilt · 1 pointr/buildapc

I think he means overpowered, but the video card you list actually requires a 750w unit, so I don't think that's the case. Personally, I'd strongly advise going with an Intel based build considering your budget. You don't specify what you're using the system for, but INtel is far and away better than AMD at per thread performance. Very few applications can take advantage of all the cores you have on that AMD processor and, even if they could, using fewer threads faster will still blow the doors off of the AMD. That's been the case for a while now.

The current crop of i5s paired with 8GB of RAM (2x4GB) is generally considered the best bang for the buck for any gaming rig. If this is for video editing or anything along those lines, then an i7 may be worthwhile, as well as bumping up to 16GB of RAM.

I'm heading out in a sec, so I don't have time to pull together a full build, but pair either of those CPUs with a decent motherboard like this one and you should be fine. Use the rest of the same build you have except drop the CPU cooler entirely unless you plan to overclock.

u/beep__beep__boop · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hmmm I wouldn't want to gamble with the hard drive reliability, thanks for that tip. I'd rather keep higher speeds though, since I work with largeish files pretty often. Do you know if the Sabrent Rocket is any good? Amazon Link

Looks like it's been around since December, and people on Amazon are pretty happy with it. But I've only heard of Sabrent in the context of things like hard drive enclosures and USB hubs, I didn't even know they make hard drives until recently.

u/Makaizen · 1 pointr/buildapc

For your graphics question, definitely wait on the reviews for the RX 480 to see if itll handle games at 1440p. If it doesn't then consider waiting for non-founders edition cards to be released closer to the $380 msrp.

One detail I noticed is that you are going to buy a haswell refresh CPU so you should purchase a Z97 chipset board instead. It supports Haswell refresh cpus out of the box and don't require a bios update like Z87s. Also, depending on the board you buy, Z97 also supports M.2 SSDs which could be useful for potential future upgrades.

As for your CPU cooler, while the D15 is very good for what it is, the Cryorig H7 will offer just nearly the same performance for a better value.

u/Rikabu · 1 pointr/buildapc

Okay I did a quick little research and I found this monitor. I think the used goods of it is pretty cheap, but my next reaction was wow that is huge. Coming from someone that only ever uses laptops, are 20+ inch monitors actually standard for PC?

Also is there a subreddit where I can find people to help me build irl for maybe some payment and a lunch? lol

u/rolfraikou · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Or This one is the same price, 5ms instead of 1ms, but it's IPS (better color and viewing angles), it is mountable (vesa mount) and I've had one for years that's done me well (graphic designer, so color is a must)

1ms might be necessary for an intense FPS player, but I think (also as a Minecraft player) that better visuals are more important for creative types than a few ms. Besides, I used to do FPS games on 12ms just fine. So 5ms really isn't bad at all.

EDIT: And a surprisngly cheap 2560x1440 25" IPS if you really want to spoil the kid.

u/ayyitsjameslmao · 1 pointr/buildapc

IPS is super awesome. I edit video and colour accuracy is really important, and IPS is amazing at that. Combined with good viewing angles and good brightness, I'd get IPS. Totally worth the refresh rate sacrifice. But it is totally a matter of preference. If you want to be ultra edgy, get an ultrawide ips. The Acer G257HU is an excellent monitor. It's not ultrawide but it's 1440p. Cheers!

u/TokyoRock · 2 pointsr/buildapc

CPU: The i3-6100 is a general improvement over the FX-8320E, performing 30-50% better in games and ±10% in multithreaded applications. Plus, changing processors let's you upgrade to DDR4 memory.

Motherboard: Even through the i3-6100 is a locked processor, it can be overclocked (as long as you have a good cooler on it). But even without overclocking, this is a better choice of processors.

GPU: Same choice as yours.

Case: I think you forgot a case, so I chose an affordable but cool case.

PSU: The Thermaltake Smart 550W is a bit higher quality than the EVGA 600B.

Sound Card: If your friend is serious about music, you need to get him/her an external DAC. I suggest the Fiio E10K.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | $147.98 @ DirectCanada
Motherboard | ASRock Z170A-X1/3.1 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $89.98 @ NCIX
Memory | Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $69.99 @ NCIX
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $57.98 @ DirectCanada
Video Card | MSI Radeon R7 370 4GB Video Card | $194.99 @ DirectCanada
Case | BitFenix Nova ATX Mid Tower Case | $34.99 @ NCIX
Power Supply | Thermaltake SMART 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ NCIX
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer | $19.95 @ shopRBC
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link TL-WN722N USB 2.0 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter | $14.87 @ DirectCanada
Other| Fiio E10K| $109.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $805.71
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-24 16:19 EDT-0400 |

u/shinramyun247 · 1 pointr/buildapc

It’s a great monitor, but do you REALLY need 4K? Think this through because you are using just a CPU and no GPU so if you want to utilize and have more performance from the CPU when rendering, I would recommend a 25-27 inch 1440p, just as good but easier on the cpu so you have more to work with, even though the CPU does support 4K. Secondly you have PLENTY of room in that case, I don’t know what you’re talking about, especially the fact that it will not have a GPU. The case also supports up to one 2.5 storage mount.

Tip: Also if you did have Windows 7 or 8 in the past, that same serial key will work to activate Windows 10.

My suggestion to you:

u/Forsbergers09 · 1 pointr/buildapc

This is the combo I'm about to roll with: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($420) + ViewSonic XG2401 23.6" 144Hz Monitor ($260).

Thats $680 for my combo vs $850 for what you have right now. You'll get a much better experience out of that for almost $200 less. If that makes you feel cheap, then just splurge in other areas, but it doesn't make much sense to get such a high tier graphics card and couple it with a sub par monitor. It would be better to meet more in the middle.

Then again I chose high refresh rates over IPS for fast paced games such as FPS's, so you could try and find a monitor thats 60hz and IPS if you prefer other games that don't quite need that competitive refresh rate and response times

However, whichever card you get, definitely get a custom aftermarket card like EVGA's 1070 SC ACX 3.0 or Gigabyte's 1070 G1 Gaming OC, instead of a reference Founders Edition card.

u/JimBobDuffMan · 1 pointr/buildapc

My setup is a 4690k with gtx 970 and 16gb of ram.

Previously this was fine for the types of games I was playing (mostly War Thunder) but now I have bought CoD and Jedi Fallen Order I have noticed my CPU running consistently at 100% and giving me fps drops in both games.

I plan to upgrade my cpu (and therefore probably motherboard and RAM eventually) when I can afford to but for now I was planning on running an OC on my cpu to get a little more out of it.

My question is what CPU cooler would you recommend that would work with my current 4690k but also be good enough for my new cpu when I eventually upgrade.

I would like to spend less than £50 ($65). I dont care too much about noise or RGB but I would like it to not be obnoxiously loud or ugly.

Would a beginner like me notice the difference between something like this vs this?

My case is a zalman z11

TL;DR: Want to OC my 4690k but need a better cooler. Needs to also work for my eventual upgraded CPU

u/YoungLorax · 1 pointr/buildapc

Total custom PC building noob here. Had a friend help me out each time I wanted to upgrade, but thinking about doing it myself this time. I want to upgrade my graphics card and was wondering if someone could let me know if the one i'm planning on buying is compatible with my current motherboard.

Planning on buying a EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti SC.

My current motherboard is a Z87M MSI Gaming Motherboard.

Would these two work together? Any help would be super appreciated!!

u/georgeguy101 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

your motherboard would allow sli, but i dont know if your psu could handle it.

your case isnt the problem with your temps, its your cooler.

if youre going to spend that much on a cooler, buy this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018

its basically the best on the market.

but you could get by on a lot less if you wanted to.

something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1303803446&sr=8-1

would be a lot better than stock but for less money than the noctua.

theres obviously a ton of options in between there as well.

u/preordains · 1 pointr/buildapc

I’m not huge on curved monitors but there’s appeal in them. Generally they’re considered better but I like flat.

ASUS ROG SWIFT PG279Q 27" 2560x1440 IPS 165Hz 4ms G-SYNC Eye Care Gaming Monitor with DP and HDMI ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017EVR2VM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_39s3Ab6EYHYDY

This is the monitor I wish I could afford, with a gtx 1080.

u/andrewjburgess97 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have a basic question:
My graphics card is pretty outdated (ASUS Radeon R7 200 Series), and I was wanting to upgrade to a new GPU that would run games like H1Z1, Player Unknown Battlegrounds, LoL, WoW, etc. Would this graphics card be okay for that? If there is a better quality one for the price, let me know. Thanks ahead of time! https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-04G-P4-6253-KR/dp/B01MF7EQJZ/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1491492287&sr=1-3&keywords=graphics+card

u/persondude27 · 1 pointr/buildapc

You buy a physical card that plugs into your motherboard, like this one.

They have very good range (and can easily get a bigger external antenna). They don't suffer from speed limiting issues like USB or powerline. They're compatible with most modern PCs.

The downside is that it's not as clean inside the PC if you have a super good looking build, and you still need strong wifi signal wherever your tower is. Also slower and usually more expensive than just running an ethernet cable to your PC, if that's an option.

u/blanketninja · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Yeah I'd go with an Intel build at this price point as well. An i5-2400 at stock speeds still pretty handily beats even a 980, and I'm not sure you'd be able to close the gap by overclocking it a little more.

If you could fit a 2500k there wouldn't even be any contest, Intel would be the better cpu for sure.

Your questions:

u/babaiben · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Sounds good! I’m going to save as much as I can, I like the colors on the IPS and 27’ is perfect for me. I was looking at this Asus and it has a lot of good stuff.

ASUS ROG PG279Q 27" Gaming Monitor WQHD 1440p IPS 165Hz DisplayPort Adjustable Ergonomic EyeCare G-SYNC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017EVR2VM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BpaTCb7N74YNB

Want to thank you again for your help, I’d be very lost without it man !

u/Korprat_Amerika · 1 pointr/buildapc

I can only guess cpu throttling as others have said. I had a 2070 non super for awhile and it would do 50 fps ultra 4k, not 1080p. Even on an old intel 2600k with a decent cooler on it. That's probably your solution.

budget option https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HKBK2G5 I can vouch for this 20 dollar cooler. Used it for an i5 build the other day. works well enough, but the mount could be better, bend it down a bit (the AMD rocker arm thing) and you'll have a much easier time installing. I like it though, comes in blue, red, and rgb.

Extreme option https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK the NHd15 beats most liquid coolers, I use it with liquid metal thermal solution on an i7 and never go over 35C idle 55C under load.

I'm fan of air cooling if you couldnt tell. good luck to you.

u/wallyTHEgecko · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is basically the standard for air cooling, and cost $30. It'd be perfect for running at stock clock speeds and it should offer enough headroom for very mild overclocks.

The Cryorig H7 is extremely similar. I think I remember seeing a review that mentioned a better fin pattern or something like that so it's supposed to be marginally better than the 212. And the white fan looks pretty cool. I know that this one may or may not require an AM4 adapter kit depending whether or not it comes with the revised backplate. But you can just request that from Cryorig and they'll send on to you.

u/i_dont_seed · 1 pointr/buildapc

Get Windows 8. It's way faster and the learning curve is not too bad at all.

Intel 4690 i5 + Asus H97 if you're not gonna overclock.

Intel 4690k i5 + Asus z97-A if you're gonna overclock.

Of course, the mobo's are entirely up to you, depending on what features you want, but those are pretty popular ones.

As for the HDD, I'd really recommend taking advantage of the low SSD prices and getting a cheap 120 GB Samsung 840 EVO and pairing that with the existing hard drive you have. Installing Windows 8 on this SSD should give you a noticeable performance boost. Then again, the SSD is up to you.

u/shnurr214 · 1 pointr/buildapc

i really want to buy a 144hz monitor but im not really aware of all the specifics i need to look out for to get the best bang for my buck.

i was originally referred to this one here https://www.amazon.com/VG248QE-1920x1080-144Hz-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B00B2HH7G0?ref_=nav_ya_signin&_encoding=UTF8&

but i saw some other options that are decently cheaper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYHZ6R6/ref=dp_cerb_3#customerReviews

can anyone help me sort through the bullshit and get a good deal on a solid 144 hz monitor without spending a zillion dollars.

id like to keep it under $300 as my budget if possible. cheaper is always better

u/qawsican · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Hello r/buildapc. I have a quick question about some monitors I recently bought and my framerates. Couple of days ago I bought two Asus VS247H-P to replace my old monitors which were a 1920x1080 main monitor and 1024x720 second monitor. After I hooked up my new monitors, I loaded up Dota 2 and tried to play some games but noticed a significant decrease in FPS, which led me to turning off V-Sync, and it brought my FPS back to 65 (I have it set at 65 in the console). However, I still notice a slight "lag?" or something, it just doesn't feel "smooth" as my previous monitor setup and I'm not sure if it is because my GPU is now running two 1920x1080 monitors at the same time or because my eyes aren't adjusted to the new monitors maybe? I plan on purchasing the EVGA GTX 750 Ti SuperClocked FTW Edition when it becomes available, and saw that it comes with a Display Port for G-Sync. Would using G-Sync with these monitors help with the slight fps lag I am experiencing right now? Could it be an issue with my CPU? Will my new monitors support work with G-Sync if I get an HDMI to Display Port cable? Thanks.

Current GPU: EVGA GTX 570 SuperClocked

Current CPU: Core i7-920 @ 2.66 ghz

u/derpyco · 0 pointsr/buildapc

First thing is, don't get a sound card. A Digital to Analog Converter (DAC) or headphone amp will be much better. Here's one for roughly the same price.

$1700 is a lot to spend on a build that has such a weak processor and memory as well as no Solid State drive. Honestly, unless it's 100% necessary, lose MS Office and Student. Google has free versions of this software that work fine. Take a look at this build here:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $234.88 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $24.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Asus B150M-A D3 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $74.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $58.99 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $154.85 @ Amazon
Storage | *Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $65.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card | $283.98 @ Newegg
Case | Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case | $139.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ NCIX US
Optical Drive | LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $46.85 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 OEM 64-bit | $199.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link TL-WDN4800 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter | $38.88 @ OutletPC
External Storage | Seagate Expansion 4TB External Hard Drive | $109.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1543.95
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1503.95
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-29 15:48 EDT-0400 |

Ask me about any changes I made. Overclockable Skylake processor, DDR4 Memory, and a 8GB GFX card. All for less than your current build, and it's much more powerful. A 500GB solid state drive is great for programs like Photoshop or editing software, as is the new processor.

Also, throw in that DAC and you have really good sound quality.

u/shredz01 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Some thoughts,

3700x comes with a pretty good cooler (wraith prism) which also looks cool and is free.

Use the savings to get a better x570 board....

~$160 Asus Prime X570-P

~$190 Asus Tuf gaming x570

~$200 Gigabyte Aorus Elite

Since you are going for x570, why not use an NVMe drive instead of the old SATA? It will be many times faster.

Sabrent Rocket 1tb $110

​

What monitor will you be using ? What is the resolution and refresh rate? That will determine how much you need to spend on a GPU. the 2080 is great but unless you are playing at 4k or you are a competitive gamer, I'd say you can definitely get something less expensive.

u/darklynx4 · 1 pointr/buildapc

i own the asus DGX (pci-e one), and its a nice sound card, i got it for like $14 new though.

But i found my onboard sound is identical though lol (look at your motherboard specs, if the motherboard is using the AC1150 codec dont bother with a sound card).

the AC1150 has all those features and the audio quality/power of any sound card you would actually buy.

If you really want the best possible (like 0.1%) quality audio, buy an external DAC. something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LP3AMC2/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00LP3AMC2&linkCode=as2&tag=facebookc07d3-20&linkId=L33FDDPW6GXXOWOY is way better then both those sound cards.

BTW "stereo to surround" is nothing more then marketing. No such thing exists.
The software surround that most sound cards have, just widens the stereo sound. it doesnt actually make it surround. (its impossible to output true surround unless the source audio is surround to begin with).

stereo headphones (regardless of which ones) can already do positional audio.
google "virtual barber shop" with any pair of stereo headphones with no software turned on.

u/HagPuppy89 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Made some adjustments to maximize performance. Changed RAM to different brand with faster speed (Ryzen CPUs thrive on fast RAM), changed SSD to one that performs better, has longer longevity, and is less expensive, added 2TB HDD, switched GPU to 5700 XT which performs better than the 2070 Super at a lower cost (Unless you just HAVE to have ray tracing this is the better choice), Swapped case to less expensive one with 4 fans and still has RGB, upped PSU to 650w as the GPU suggests having at least this much power, plus it’s gold certified.

All in all, this comes in just lower than what you priced.


PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | $194.00 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard | $114.99 @ B&H
Memory | Patriot Viper Steel 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3733 Memory | $74.98 @ Amazon
Storage | ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $69.98 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Red Devil Video Card | $433.98 @ Newegg
Case | DIYPC Trio-GT-RGB ATX Mid Tower Case | $66.09 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1099.00
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1079.00
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-21 03:01 EST-0500 |


Edit: great monitor for price would be the Acer XFA240 @ $180 - 1080p HD monitor capable of 144hz. 144 FPS will feel like a mega upgrade over traditional 60 FPS gaming. And this rig will get you there.

u/Jakexx360 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I was looking back at your build for reference on the CPU (which I have now switched to in order to save ~150 dollars), and I noticed how expensive the monitor you're getting is. I just bought this one and could not recommend it highly enough. It has nothing but 4-5 star reviews and is the best monitor I've seen for the price at 24". Here's an amazon link. Just wanted to give my two cents and maybe even save you some 120 dollars :)

u/SkyKiwi · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Building a PC (obviously) and getting some mixed results in regards to two different CPU's. I'd like opinions on which ones to choose from.

The Intel Boxed Core I5-6600K was my original choice, but I've had some people try to convince me to get AMD FD6300WMHKBOX FX-6300 instead. Obviously there's a big price difference between these two CPU's, but I'm hearing a lot of "intel marks up their prices way too much" and "the amd can do everything intel will do and has two more cores anyway" and other stuff like that which, to me, just sounds like AMD fanboyism trying to discredit the other CPU, but I also admit I don't actually know that much and that they could be right. Also, the fact that there's multiple of them.

So I'd like some input from you guys!

tl;dr: Intel Boxed Core I5-6600K or AMD FD6300WMHKBOX FX-6300

u/KoreaKoreaKoreaKorea · 16 pointsr/buildapc

$30 DAC - Link - Please know these aren't game changers, it's only offering better quality sound than your motherboard. If your headphones or speakers aren't that great, it's not doing to do much. Weakest link type of thing. If your headphones suck, these wont help. But if you have a decent set of phones, many people have sworn by these.

$75 DAC - Link - More expensive, better sound output. Again, should be paired with even higher quality sound gear. $100+ speakers/headphones.

$115 DAC - My Dac - Link - I needed a dac with a little power. I use speakers with my setup instead of headphones. This one is 2x25. It's honestly the most anyone should need for a 2.0 system.

$80 Speakers - Link - These are mine. I love them. Best combined $200 I've spent. Instead of a CPU that will need to be replaced in two years, these will out last many builds if I take care of them. The reviews are through the roof compared to the price. And I'd have to agree.

There are a million reviews about the topping DAC + Micca speakers. Things feel more immersive. I think that's the simplest way to put it.

u/notaneggspert · 1 pointr/buildapc

Basically the only difference between the 1700 and the 1700x is that the 1700x is guaranteed to clock to 3.4 GHz and Turbo to 3.8 GHz on certain cores. There should be additional overclocking headroom on top of that but it's never guaranteed. Not all 1700x's can overclock to the same frequency this is the "silicon lottery".

The 1700 is clocked at 3.0 GHz (3.7 GHz Turbo) most of the time it's overclockable to the same if not better performance than the stock 1700x but this isn't guaranteed and you'll probably need a better than stock cooler to get it there. This is partially why the 1700x doesn't ship with a cooler. It needs a beefier cooler like the Cryorig H7 which is an excellent budget option, you just might need a free AM4 bracket since they're still not shipping with one. The Cooler Master 212 is the same story, the H5 is shipping with the bracket included.

You don't need a water cooler, they are generally lower profile so if you have a small case you might need one but often the stock fans aren't much quieter than the fan on the CPU coolers I linked. In brief periods of thermal testing they outperform air coolers but for long gaming sessions the difference in CPU thermals is minimal especially given the increased cost. They do look dope though.

1600 vs 1600x

1450 vs 1600 vs 1700

u/Wuzz-ii · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Oh well nevermind .. i should have compared prices earlier to other shops, they seem quite good. If you want you can check out these sites and see if you can get away with less money.

  • Home of Hardware,
  • Case King,
  • Mindfactory

    Your build looks quite nice, although i would change a few things. I would swap the Noctua Cooler for a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO, which is not listed in pcpartpicker for some reason. You also want to change the harddrive to a 7200rpm (thats either a seagate barracuda or WD Blue) drive and maybe go for 1 TB of storage since you can save a little bit there. Also you can go for a little cheaper RAM (G.Skill Ripjaw).

    I will post a list with changes later, if you want.
u/sorark7 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

First off, don't plan on trying to get a certain overclock as it's all luck of the draw. You're i5 may be stuck at 4.1Ghz or you might be able to get 4.8Ghz easily. I made that mistake (I was shooting for a 4.5Ghz overclock as well) and my 4670k will only reach 4.3Ghz at reasonable volts.

Anyway, now on to the build.

  • CPU is fine. Go Haswell over Ivy Bridge as Haswell will perform better then Ivy even with slower clock speeds.

  • CPU cooler is fine.

  • Motherboard is overpriced. You won't really get much performance gains from a $200 motherboard as opposed to a $130 motherboard. You could easily cut some costs here without really seeing any loss of performance. I'd recommend the Gigabyte UD3H.

  • You don't need 16GB of RAM if your build is primarily for gaming. If you're planning on doing a lot of video editing and photo editing, etc., then that's fine, but if not you kinda overdid it here. 8GB would have been more than enough.

  • Get an 840 EVO as opposed to a 840 Pro. It's newer, faster, and $25 dollars cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W1726/?tag=pcpapi-20

  • The 7870 is beginning to show it's age. I would recommend trying to either stretch you budget or cut other areas to at least get a 280x.

  • Case is fine.

  • PSU is fine.

  • Get Windows 8. It's chapter, newer, and better supported.
u/mrauls · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have a 1440 atm :). Your gpu should do great at that resolution. My first monitor recommendation would be this monitor, because it has a refresh rate of 165hz :D. I have the amd freesync version that only goes up to 144hz, but I love it nonetheless. The funny part is I ended up switching from an amd gpu to an nvidia.

If you want another 1440 monitor I would recommend checking out what dell offers. They do not disappoint :)

u/ziptofaf · 1 pointr/buildapc

Well, technically it's a $1056 build and you get some money back after mailing it in and waiting months :S So it's not exactly a fair competition - if my system is allowed the same rule (spending 1060$ upfront) then it beats yours:

|Part type|Name|URL|Price|
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|motherboard|ASRock B450 Pro4|https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16813157841|88.15|
|processor|AMD Ryzen 5 2600|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B07B41WS48/?tag=envybits-20|164.99|
|memory|Team Vulcan 32GB 3000MHz CL16|https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820313886|159.99|
|video_card|Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 Windforce 8GB|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B07JBTS8HR/?tag=envybits-20|479.99|
|drive|ADATA XPG SX8200 480GB M.2-2280 SSD|https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIADF17442135|84.99|
|power_supply|EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B01LWTS2UL/?tag=envybits-20|79.99|
|total|-|-|1058.10|

I mean sure - you would still need to get a case but you could pick that up and decrease amount of RAM to 16GB. But you do get a better SSD and a PSU in this variant.

​

I am not saying this system is perfect or whatever mind you. Just that while it does have hiccups it can build fairly good systems too if you check through other options you are given by it upfront so calling it "random parts" is kinda uncalled for.

u/Thatisdifficult · 7 pointsr/buildapc

I highly recommend both the $56 Macho X2 and the $47 Scythe Fuma air coolers.

They are both roughly half the price of the popular $90 Noctua NH-D15 and perform almost just as well. These coolers are pretty powerful and even go toe-to-toe with some high-end liquid coolers. They are also both relatively quiet coolers too; bang for the buck is very high for these two products.

Just make sure they actually fit your PC case.

u/Christopher_Bohling · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I would consider the Acer XFA240. It's a 144Hz Freesync monitor that has been validated by Nvidia as G-sync compatible. So that means that it will work out of the box with either Nvidia or AMD graphics cards. Getting something that will work with both is a good idea because it gives your monitor greater flexibility - you're not restricted to just one GPU manufacturer in the future.

This list is a good guide to monitors that Nvidia has validated as compatible. Bear in mind that true G-sync monitors (the ones labeled just G-sync) will only allow variable refresh rate with Nvidia GPUs (I mean, the monitor will still work, you just won't get VRR), while the "G-sync compatible" ones are Freesync so they will work with Nvidia or AMD.

u/IAmNotNathaniel · 1 pointr/buildapc

Can someone tell me the difference between these 2 monitors? Other than the model number and the price, I can't really see any big differences:

ViewSonic XG2402

ViewSonic XG2401

When I google about them, it seems the biggest difference is that the 02 has a slightly better response time - but I have no idea if I will even notice that. Will I?

I don't competitive game whatsoever - mostly older stuff (e.g. I am looking forward to finally playing things like Bioshock Infinite and Witcher 1 this year...)

Was waiting for the 02 to go on sale again, but I'd rather not wait much longer.. and would love to save $60 by getting the 01 if I won't be unhappy with it.

u/andysaurus_rex · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I mean, with a good air cooler you can do as well or better than water coolers. Liquid coolers are generally for people who want better looks, require it for space, or just want to mess around with water cooling.

Something like the Noctua D15 is pretty much as good as you can get between air or liquid coolers.

u/InsertNickname · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I wouldn't recommend getting an SSD at your price-point. Lower capacity SSD's have a tendency to be more unreliable than larger ones, and if you want to buy a good machine that does everything well and can play games at decent FPS you'll want to save that money on other things. Look at this build:

Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Athlon II X4 640 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $99.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock M3A770DE ATX AM3 Motherboard | $59.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Crucial 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $39.99 @ Amazon
Hard Drive | Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $64.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon HD 5670 1GB Video Card | $54.99 @ Newegg
Case | Xigmatek Asgard II Black ATX Mid Tower Case | $29.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Antec 430W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $44.99 @ Newegg
|| Total
| (Prices include shipping and discounts when available.) | $394.93


It has everything you need, and it plays most modern games at good FPS with lowered settings. You could even overclock it with great results, but for that you'd have to spend another 30$ on a good cooler like the Hyper 212+.

u/sk9592 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Looks like the D1 shot up in price for some reason. A few months ago it was $120, now it's $170.

Another great USB DAC is the FiiO E10K. It's a bit cheaper, and is more oriented toward headphones, while the D1 is focused on bookshelf speakers.

Honestly, either option is great though.

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

u/Jakenator1296 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I currently have the AOC G2460PF, which is $195 on Amazon. The BenQ monitor doesn't include Freesync, but I'm going to go ahead and assume you don't have an AMD graphics card, so that won't really matter for you. That ViewSonic monitor is the 2017 model, but the 2018 model is $250, and so is the BenQ monitor.

The Acer XFA240 is $15 more than the AOC monitor and has the same style stand.

The Acer GN246HL is the same price as the AOC monitor, but only has tilt capabilities due to a different style stand.

I've had my AOC monitor for a year and a half now, and I haven't had any significant issues with it, and it performs well for a cheap monitor. Also, in my opinion, it looks much better than the 2nd Acer monitor.

The only downside of the AOC monitor is that it's color accuracy is pretty poor, but I don't think any of the 144Hz monitors near $200 will have good colors. If that's important to you, then you might want to dish out a bit more for a better panel.

u/eclark5483 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Well, what are you working with? I mean what is the model of the computer you have now? Swaps into another case with a new PSU aren't always hard. Sometimes you can get a non standard board in an SFF, other times you can get a nice gem in the rough. The Dell Inspiron 660s comes to mind as an SFF type computer with lots of potential. I've done swaps on HP Media Center PC's as well. Gimme a better idea of what you have and let's weigh some options. If you'd like suggestions for a completely new system that won't break the bank, here's this one:

Phreakwar PC Parts List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $117.68 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte B450M DS3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $72.98 @ Amazon
Memory | Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $59.99 @ Newegg
Storage | ADATA XPG SX6000 Pro 256 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $39.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 1660 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card | $198.99 @ B&H
Case | Cougar MX330-G ATX Mid Tower Case | $46.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Raidmax Scorpio 535 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ Amazon
| Total | $586.60
| Generated by Phreakwar PC Custom Builds |

u/sideflanker · 1 pointr/buildapc

I hope you remembered to factor in tax. The XG2402 was, for example, $229 to Maryland after taxes.

---

$180 XFA240 is a lower cost alternative to the XG2402

You won't need an aftermarket CPU cooler at all with Ryzen products.

Your build only needs 550W or less. If you can find a 550W power supply for cheaper, go for that instead.

Your motherboard is unnecessarily strong. It'll overclock well but at this budget you might want to spend your budget elsewhere. Just pickup a good B450 board like the Msi Tomahawk.

Windows can be installed and used for free, you just won't be able to change your background. All you'll need is a flash drive and a computer to load the install onto the flash drive.

---

With the extra budget, you can pick up a GTX 1660 TI or maybe even reach for a RTX 2060.

u/CrisKrossed · 5 pointsr/buildapc

My motherboard only has one system fan header, but I have two system fans. Would I be able to use something like this to safely use both case fans that come with my corsair 350d? I have this motherboard. I can't find the amp values for the case fans, and don't want to fry/melt the on board fan header from the initial power draw.

u/Caanon565 · 1 pointr/buildapc

You can use splitters like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XKKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2 way splitter linked, if you look under "color" there is a 3 way one too.

I have both a 3 way and 2 way. They should work fine unless you have high speed fans that draw a lot of current, you can check the Amps your fans draw on the specs and as long as the total(for all fans on splitter) is less that like 1 Amp for a header it should be fine.


Also I happen to have your motherboard.

CPU optional apparently just matches whatever the CPU fan is putting out, so it isn't individually controllable.

You can use AIO pump as a fan header and control the speed, but not as well as other fan headers, and if I remember you can't have a fan on there stop/shut off.

Case 1, 2 and the M.2 fan header at the bottom are fully controllable fan headers, so I would suggest using those 3, with splitters for whatever you want to do.

I recently Upgraded to an Define R6 so I'm just using the included fan hub on that for the fans that I always have turned on, and then use Case 1+2 with splitters for fans that are normally off but turn on when the system heats up.

u/xexiled · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Sorry for the long response time. IPS panels have better colors and viewing angles. TN panels on the other hand have higher refresh rates and response times.

You have to pick one or the other at this price range though. I however prefer TN panels because I like the smooth 144hz refresh rates and 1ms response times. You on the other hand might want the better colors.

Here are some IPS monitors that are recommended often.


u/Halbzu · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Okay, I just had closer look at your motherboard. I assumed you only had 1 m.2 slot, but there are 2, one pci and 1 sata.
The M.2 ssd you got uses SATA. So it's the same speed as the older 2.5 inch drives, which is not bad, but there are m.2 nvme out there, which are roughly the same price and even faster. You can either keep the wd blue or replace it while you can still return your parts. If you choose to keep it, make sure to put it in the m.2 slot with the sata port (M2_2 on your manual) so that the faster pci slot stays free for a possible upgrade in the future.

u/rezikrisp · 1 pointr/buildapc

I bought this last year:

http://www.amazon.com/Acer-G257HU-smidpx-25-Inch-Widescreen/dp/B00QS0AKVK

I bought with a 390 gpu upgrade and it's been pretty awesome. For the price I'm happy with 1440p at 60fps, considering that with my GPU I probably couldn't get it much higher. Very happy with the purchase.

u/Mylkal · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hello there! I'm in the same boat as you, so I can't answer all your questions, and my answers may be lacking detail, but I'm deciding on a build pretty similar to yours so I'll try :D. Anyways:

  1. Modular seems to be the way to go due to easier cable management which increases air flow in your case, which is an overall plus.
  2. I'm also planning on getting the 770 GPU, but I don't see the relation between cheaper MOBO now and potential for SLI a few years later...? I'm assuming its not a money thing since you said a few years. However, you might need a better PSU as someone on IRC told me 850w for 2 770's. Just depends on how far down the road you're thinking about SLI.
  3. I was advised to get 2 4GB RAM for dual channel, so I switched to that.
  4. I've been looking at monitors, and you can get a ~24'' for about 16 dollars more. IMO it's worth it, but up to you:
    http://www.amazon.com/Asus-VS247H-P-24-Inch-Full-HD-LED-Lit/dp/B005BZNDS0/ref=pd_cp_pc_1
u/Tony_Danger · 1 pointr/buildapc

Changed the cooler. New one uses less power, runs quiter and has adjustable fan speed. Put everything except the case in via Amazon. MUCH easier when you get it all in one delivery. Also you will need some Thermal Paste

The PSU will be fine for your question below.

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | £177.91 @ Amazon UK
CPU Cooler | Thermaltake Water 3.0 Performer C + LNC 81.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | £49.99 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £89.58 @ Amazon UK
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury White 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | £63.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £115.90 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £54.00 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card | £544.98 @ Amazon UK
Case | NZXT H440 (White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | £88.98 @ Aria PC
Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | £90.11 @ Amazon UK
Monitor | Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 144Hz 27.0" Monitor | £530.88 @ Amazon UK
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £1806.32

u/thats_way_harsh_tai · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I know nothing about the inner workings of a computer. My 14 year old son plays games on his all the time (mostly Steam). For Christmas 2014, I got him this. I am struggling on ideas for what to get him, so I have been googling and found this on a list of "perfect gifts for the pc gamer in your life" or whatever. My question is, Is this a decent upgrade? Would it make that much of a difference for him?

Also, sort of related, but not really. He said he needs a new XBox controller that he uses for his computer games (he broke his). He has an Xbox 360 that is old and he never plays on. Do I have to get him a 360 controller? Most of the ones I have been seeing are for the Xbox One. Also, do I need any kind of adapters?

Thank you so much.


edit: Also, if you can suggest any other parts or things that will improve his experience I would greatly appreciate it. Like I said, I know nothing so this is all very confusing for me. Amazon links would be amazing.

u/gmv_87 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Also a noob, but I'll help as best I can:

  1. Try getting a screen that has little lag, about 2 ms response time.
    http://www.amazon.com/Asus-VS247H-P-24-Inch-Full-HD-LED-Lit/dp/B005BZNDS0/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370892196&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=moniton+24+inch

  2. Right off the bat. Install Windows 7 on a USB and boot the USB through your BIOS once ready. See sidebar for instruction.
  3. Should work right off the bat.
  4. Someone more experienced can help you there
u/TravonsGhost · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That's going to be sick, you've got a pretty good setup as is. Drop that WD Blue and go with a 2 tb 970 Evo plus. Make sure you post the benchmarks here when it's done.

Edit: I just noticed the last tidbit about not wanting to go much higher. Instead go with a 1tb Sabrent Rocket. Same price as the WD, better speeds.

u/wojtasskorcz · 1 pointr/buildapc

Alright, so I compared 24" 1080p with 27" 1440p both at work (with browser and other static-image programs open) and in an electronics shop (with a video from random games playing in a loop).

I must say that for work 27" looks just fine, it's not too big and has an advantage that I could effectively split windows vertically (each 1280px wide) which for 24" would result in often too narrow windows (each 960px). In my case it's great for productivity, as I very often have some tutorial/pdf open on the left-hand side and IDE on the right-hand side.

When it comes to video/gaming of course the 27" makes a better impression but it's hard to say after looking for just a few minutes if it's that significant.

Anyway, I think I'll go with 27" 1440p in this case. Thought about buying this Asus because of G-sync, IPS and 165Hz. People at /r/Monitors are also very positive about it (although backlight bleeding is often a problem, but then I could just give it back and demand a good model). What do you think about it? And what PC specs would you propose in this case?

u/T_Fouts · 1 pointr/buildapc

No worries, I figured it would be good if I explained my reasoning for the part choice. In my opinion, if you have the money to spend, 144hz is definitely worth the investment. The 144hz experience is very smooth and fast. Hz refers to refresh rate, or the number of times the screen changes per second. Thus, 144hz will be faster, smoother, and better all around. They are a bit more expensive then your average 60hz though. The two 144hz monitors I'd personally recommend are the [Asus VG248QE] (https://www.amazon.com/VG248QE-1920x1080-144Hz-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B00B2HH7G0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1479966681&sr=1-1&keywords=asus+vg248qe) and the [BenQ XL2411Z] (https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-24-Inch-Tournaments-Professional-XL2411/dp/B01H5KKQTM/ref=dp_ob_title_ce). Both are fantastic monitors however the BenQ monitor come with more features which can be found on their website. In conclusion, yes, I would say that purchasing a 144hz monitor is very worth it if you have the money to spend.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

u/Flying_Belgian · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That looks like a pretty ok build, tho you don't seem to have a cpu cooler.
Are you planning on buying an aftermarket cooler or just using the stock fan intel provides?
I would recommend getting an aftermarket cooler, if you will not be overclocking i'd recommend the hyper 212 evo.
The cooler is way better and more silent then the stock cooler and only costs around 30 euros (I've seen it sell for 20 euros also, but only in the netherlands.) Cpu cooler

Also the ssd seems a bit pricy for what you are getting,
if you are willing to pay 90 euros for that one I'd rather recommend a Samsung evo 850, it has better read and write speeds and it's 10 euros cheaper on amazon.de
SSD

u/Hunari · 1 pointr/buildapc

Well if you had gsync you would turn it on in your NVIDIA control panel so you always are at 142-143 FPS on a 144hz monitor.

This will ensure you have gsync on all the time. It makes things silky smooth so you do not get any stuttering.

Here’s a few options for g-sync monitors -


https://www.amazon.com/PG279Q-2560x1440-G-SYNC-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B017EVR2VM

Or

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-XB271HU-2560x1440-Display/dp/B0173PEX20

These monitors are $50 above your budget but has G-Sync and are IPS monitors so the color reproduction is a lot better than a TN.

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Gaming-S2716DGR-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B0149QBOF0

This would be another option 1440p 144hz G-sync. But it’s a TN so the color isn’t quite as good but saves a good bit of money.

u/CallMeYourGod · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You can get good SSDs from Samsung, Crucial, Intel, and SanDisk

You can get good RAM from GSkill, Corsair, Kingston, and Crucial

The safest way to choose is just to look at reviews. The best thing to see is a bell curve review distribution, like on this SSD. What you don't want to see is a very scattered distribution of reviews.

u/kingender6 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have this monitor
http://smile.amazon.com/VS247H-P-1920x1080-DVI-D-Back-lit-Monitor/dp/B005BZNDS0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

What is the best GPU for 1080p gaming? I assume getting a 1070 or 1080 would be overkill. So what current generation should I get?

In the future I might upgrade to a 1440p monitor, which GPU would be the best for that one?

Please and thank you!

u/japaul32 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I would recommend a pair of HD 598's and a headphone amp. Or the AKG k701/q701.

I own the HD558, and Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro, and I use them in conjuction with a Schiit Magni. My favourite for comfort and overall audio quality is the HD558. If I want some more bass in my music I switch to the DT770 Pro.

Take a look at this

Edit: I'm assuming you're using onboard audio. If so, take a look at a amp/dac combo like this

Edit2: You guys in the UK get some great prices. Here's the DT990 Pro. Definitely want to get a headphone amp with this guy.

u/XS_Sa1nt · 0 pointsr/buildapc

I would go with artic thermal compound, its a little better in my opinion, ive never heard anything bad about that board or cpu. I usually perfer bigger coolers but it should be alright, intel tends to run cooler than amd. I use this one
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK
In both my intel and amd builds abd it works very well. Keeps my cpu under load around 40 celcius

I would probably go with an 850 psu , but i also didnt check power requirements. It may be alright.
I use https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator to check my psu requurements before builds.

But looks pretty solid.

u/VRFour · 16 pointsr/buildapc

As far as bang for your buck, I think the Hyper 212+ is a better buy. It's about two-thirds of the price of the Hyper 212 Evo and you'll only see a minimal benefit with the Evo (which is from the better fan, if I recall correctly).

You really can't go wrong with either cooler but if you're already over budget or need to save a few dollars somewhere, I'd say the 212+ is a better buy - especially if you're only doing some conservative overclocking.

u/digisax · 2 pointsr/buildapc

An 8600k is a great choice and it'd save you $110 so you could upgrade to a 1070ti (link) or 1080 (link) to get better gaming performance.

The k chips don't come with stock coolers anymore, and the stock coolers wouldn't be adequate anyway. Since you don't plan to OC, a Cryorig H7 (link) would fit the bill too keep it cool and quiet while still fitting in the same budget.

u/Conpen · 1 pointr/buildapc

That looks like a good build! You can definitely run Titanfall on high at 1080p. You may want to consider getting an SSD, you can slip one in for ~$90 and it is definitely worth it, you have no idea how great it is until you experience it. Here's a great one.

Also, I don't see an HDD on that list. Was that an error?

u/JJB92 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Can't be specific as use my PC from everything from graphic design (Cad) To gaming and music. I've decided I'm going to do an overall upgrade as I'm happy with my mobo.

Going to upgrade

-PSU to modular & higher wattage

-GPU to better MSI card next year

-Also going to get an 500GB SSD

(http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-500GB-Basic-Solid-State/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1419877618&sr=1-1&keywords=ssd)

Thanks for the help :)

u/22jk · 1 pointr/buildapc

For a cooler you should look into the EVO 212 air cooler . Its only around $27 and good quiet performance.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002G1YPH0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1383186647&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

For fans the Corsair AF120 are some nice high airflow affordable quiet fans. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007RESGBC/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1383186731&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

As for cable management I recommend cable ties and in your case here maybe like a cable guard or shield that can cover them to make it look cleaner inside. But that case is pretty tight overall so your best bet is to just upgrade it when you got an extra cash around.

Watch this video for some tips on cable management in that case https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjeTO5TBWy8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

u/Brostradamus_ · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Seeing your concerns about audio, you are probably best suited by getting a decent budget B450 board for around £80 and using the rest of your budget on a nice external DAC--see /r/headphones for suggestions.

Any half-decent external DAC is going to be better than any built-in motherboard audio. Something like this is very well recieved for the price: https://www.amazon.co.uk/FiiO-Olympus-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536241720&sr=8-3&keywords=FiiO+E10K

u/mirox · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you're not concerned about noise, or RGB, but you care about price to value ratio, take advantage of the fact the 303 is a large enough size case.

Buy 4 fans for less than the price of the expensive fan someone reccomended.

These are fairly quiet, 38CFM fans.


If you want higher CFM fans, here's a value pack of 5 here.

You can get a few fan splitters here.


Note, not all fans have to be PWM controlled. For some fans, can just run fans on their default setting, or H/M/L and not plug them into the motherboard (just use sata/molex power).

I don't know what kind of cooling you really require, a case with 7 fans will have serious cooling regardless. In smaller form factors, this is where the more serious high performance fans are critical. There's a lot of breathing room in the 303.

u/Inter9221 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hey SUK,
If its a hardware issue, it would most likely be a bad cooler (The pump or fans could be dying.) This would explain your CPU temperatures. You could also try reapplying your thermal paste since it has been two years, this could remedy the issue for a while if your cooler is dying.

It could also be a faulty power supply, but this would not explain the CPU temperatures, but it would explain the blackouts. I'd be very surprised if the graphics card was the issue, since the cooling is independent, and GTX 1070s take up about the same power as a 970.

I'd suggest looking into spending for something like a Corsair H100i v2 (on sale now actually!), its a good cooler at a good cost. Or go back to air cooling (while not as efficient, it is less accident prone) with a Noctua NH-D15.

Pictures wouldn't hurt, but I'm betting its a faulty cooler. By the way, huge fan of your videos!

Edit: What is your fan configuration? How many fans do you have in the front, top, and exhaust? Where is your cooler located in the computer?

u/The_Russian · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You probably wouldnt be disappointed with this. Good brand, LED so it isnt as hot but still looks damn good, and an IPS on top of that. I personally couldnt tell the difference between a 5 and a 2ms response time, but if you can or want it, then you could get the non IPS panels for like 30$ cheaper and itll have the 2ms response time. Id go with IPS though because it looks gorgeous on it.

This is the monitor that i plan to get for myself within a few months for gaming, as its 1440p and can be overclocked to be close to 120hz. Its almost double your budget though, and depending on your video card might not even be worth it.

u/Describe · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Obligatory 'this is my monitor and I love it': https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-XL2411P-Response-eQualizer-Adjustable/dp/B01H5KKQTM

Saw that it wasn't suggested yet so I thought I'd throw it in there. Good image quality, good aesthetics and a super sturdy stand. Plus you get that BenQ street cred.

u/BlackflagsSFE · 1 pointr/buildapc

Just a good heads up for you, you can usually find good monitors on sale that are 144hz. You don’t need to worry about freesync or gsync anymore. I have an Nvidia card with 2 freesync monitors and they are beautiful. I would scour this forum and also check out slickdeals.

And apparently my monitor is on sale right now. Love this baby.

You can also check drop.com
Hope this helps.

Sweet setup btw

u/pickapicklepipinghot · 1 pointr/buildapc

Are you looking for 1080p? If so, I have this monitor and like it a lot:

http://www.amazon.com/VS239H-P-1920x1080-DVI-D-Back-lit-Monitor/dp/B008DWITHI/

I am not sure the exchange rate for your currency, but I think it should be around your budget ~ 140 USD. Great monitor, great price.

u/jjrmm7 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'd say a Noctua air cooler would be great to cool and minimally overclock the i7. If you plan to seriously overclock it, get liquid cooler to get that extra performance boost whenever you are using video editing software.

PS You don't need an extremely expensive motherboard either unless you need any specific features. Something like this will do for a standard user. Even cheaper ($150) at Microcenter if you have one nearby. 750W is suitable for your build. 850W would be ideal if you planned on getting another GPU to SLI them

u/WaZyJ · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I currently have the Acer XFA240, its works great for me, has 1ms Response Time, a somewhat small stand so it doesn't get in the way and has adjustable height and tilt/swivel. I would definitely recommend.


Edit: It also came with displayport cable which is pretty cool

u/blacklegbrian · 2 pointsr/buildapc

To start off with, we need to know what kind of motherboard is in your PC to make sure it has a free PCIe slot. Can you provide us a model? I would recommend this WiFi card ; TP-Link AC1300, as long as you have a free slot.

If you are on Windows 10, it will have a generic driver it will use that will get you online. Then go to the manufacturers website to grab the most up to date driver.

​

Honestly, I would try and run a cable that 30-40 feet if you can make it look tidy.

u/wish_i_lived_in_cali · 1 pointr/buildapc

Air coolers that I recommend:

Noctua NH-DH15 - probably the best air cooler on the market

be quiet! dark rock pro 3

Cryorig R1

AIO's are easier to install than the coolers I listed above. AIO's are also aesthetically pleasing. Cons of AIO's are that the pump could fail and you could have a possible leak in your system. Corsair, NZXT, and Deepcool make pretty good AIO coolers, but all are susceptible to leakage.

Make sure to check what size radiators your case will support and where you will be installing it. The most common place is the front intake position.

u/xxstasxx · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Air coolers

http://www.phanteks.com/ph-tc14pe.html

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK


Dual Fan AIO water cooler

http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/cpu-cooler/#xcx=0&sort=d6&page=1&m=11

I personally don't know much about the difference between the models of the h1xxi's and there has to be one , theres other brand like options like NZXT kraken , all of these are the ones that I know of that are capable of handling temps nicely and thus better for overclocking.