(Part 2) Top products from r/cars

All I could find is this: http://powerhouse411.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_5

There are much cheaper eBay kits, but I think it goes without saying that if you know anything about turbocharging a vehicle you don't want to get an entire kit off of eBay.

You can do it for cheaper if you're handy and want to DIY, I recommend reading both http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1932494294?pc_redir=1410935474&robot_redir=1

And: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0837601606?pc_redir=1410868060&robot_redir=1


The first deals heavily into understanding how it all works and makes you more comfortable with the process. The second will teach you everything you need to know about adding a turbo to a (your) vehicle.

Reading these will save you a lot of money if you end up deciding not to turbo your car, or they will build your confidence in it. I think a turbo V6 would be unique instead of the "V8 cop out".

After that do as much research as you can into your vehicle and read up on some v6 turbo builds, I'm sure it's been done. A turbo v6 can end up putting down some serious power (Note: GNX). Reading other builds will give you an idea of the overall cost. If you can part together a decent kit for pretty cheap, you still have to see if the trans and supporting parts can handle it.

http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f133/t10565/


If you're still interested after all of that, don't rule out superchargers! Larger engines tend to accept them better and you won't experience any lag.

Keep your car clean. Turtle actually has a really nice interior cleaner which smells like Meguiar's leather conditioner, except, you can use it on everything. I use a combination of those two and it gives a hint of leather scent with a nice sweet berry type of smell.

As far as best car fresheners, most spray ones only last a week or so. If you want one of those that you stick to your dash or you hide in your map pocket's cup holder, japanese ones are the best bet. This one for example is a huge favorite of mine, it's what my dad always got and it looks sick. The japanese squash smell is really clean smelling and its sweet, kinda smells like the taste of soda candy. This brand is great too and one I have personal experience with, lasts a long time, a few months I'd say.

These are the two Banish books I'm most familiar with: Engine Management: Advanced Tuning, Designing and Tuning High Performance Fuel Injection Systems. They're pretty similar but the main difference is obvious from the title: the former is just tuning with a little bit of hardware and the second is about half and half hardware and tuning.

I try to remember that the RPi isn't really targeted at hobbyists, it's really an educational board. There are definitely better options if you're willing to give up the support and community. The Banana Pi is looking pretty good as well as the whole ODROID line. Since I'm not a coding guy I would probably be running a tuning PC program hence the requirement of x86.

I tend to think the same way you do. Don't know where to start, just wish I could have someone explain everything and let me ask questions. While I'm sure that exists in the sense that there might be some expert out there willing to sit down and teach it, but what you're asking for is a course and instruction. Again, I'm sure that exists and it will cost money, I don't know where to start with that.

Otherwise it is completely up to you. Start scouring the internet, look through build threads and tuning forums, and read books on the subject. I just finished this one and I think it is a pretty good place to start if you need the basics on turbos. After that I'm moving on to this one to learn more about tuning. Just like most things in life, there is no easy button. If you want to learn it you have to do it yourself.

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

Walkie talkies and their chargers are always nice. Good to always have an inverter too so you can actually charge things with normal plugs.

Bring water and juice, snacks etc. But all in a cooler that you can actually open while driving. Hopefully your passengers can reach it in the trunk if need be or have it so it won't obstruct leg room. For a long road trip, I usually leave the entire back seat for 1 person. That way they can stretch out or sleep while the front passenger and driver have all the leg room if they choose to scoot the seat back.

As for cars - oil change, check your belts, check the condition of your tires and make sure they are filled to spec (no over, even if you want that extra 2 mpg fuel economy). Bring an electric tire pump with you too. If your car has a spare tire, make sure your tire is in decent condition, and make sure your jack is functioning. No point in a spare tire if you can't get the car lifted.

If you don't have a spare tire, or just want options, get a tire filling/repair kit. It will at least get you to the next town.

As for drivers. Some may have an ego and want to show other how long they can drive for. Make sure everyone understands, if you are in any bit tired - pass the wheel to someone else. If you don't have enough drivers, then pull over and get rest. Even a 15 to 30 minute nap can save lives.

I've done some pretty grueling road trips and I always enjoy bringing my laptop (here is where the power converter comes in handy), some speakers if you can't hook into your car's speakers, and my harddrive full of movies and tv shows. Don't rely on netflix through your phone as you won't get good service on half the drive (and because data use can get pretty high pretty quickly).

Source: for 2 years in college, i did 6 total road trips. Some were as short as 1000 miles, some were as long as 2500 spanning from Maryland to the north western tip of Washington which also had to be completed in about 3 days. That trip only had 2 drivers per vehicle with 2 vehicles to move. A terrible box truck limited to 70mph and a rental camry. The Rockies and national parks were amazing. We camped out at a state park one night and woke up about 15 yards from a moose (not a good thing). Once you get into the mid-west, it's all downhill from there. The middle of the continent is nothing but flat ground and farms. Ohio is a terrible state to drive in, Pennsylvania gets really hairy with their downhill mountains in a semi-poorly loaded box truck, and the entire east coast has shitty traffic.



Edit: reading through the responses here, I should state the radios I had for the trip cost several hundred dollars and had a range of about 1/2 mile. If you're using cheapo 20$ units from radio shack, probably best to not even bother purchasing them. Phones may be better.

No touching the drain plug or having to crawl under the car. Can use this to change all your fluids, without getting your "hands dirty". Can become best friends to all your friends/family when you loan it to them for easy oil changes lol.

I bought this one but used off kijiji. It was a great deal. Highly recommend the 7201 model, as it's container size will be big enough to extract all the motor oil.

https://www.amazon.ca/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC

I've been using this one for like a year or more.

It does damage the dust things on the CD player but it still plays CDs. I would recommend one if you don't mind that detail. The placement is perfect for me it's just second nature to put my phone there; I see it as part of the car now like a cup holder.

edit: spelling.

Definitely check out r/AutoDetailing,

But some quick tips, make sure you get a dual action orbital polisher, not a normal rotary polisher. It's pretty easy to mess up your paint with a normal one if you're not well practiced, but DA polishers are pretty easy to use as long as you pay attention to what you're doing. There's also random orbit polishers, but those don't generally provide enough power to do any serious paint correction...

​

Examples:

Rotary polisher (hard to use): https://www.amazon.com/POLISHFLEX-Compact-Variable-Rotary-Polisher/dp/B004XAN4M4/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-12

​

Random orbit polisher (no power):

https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-10

​

Dual Action polisher (what you probably want...):

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-7

I've stored a bunch of cars.

Buy a battery tender:
https://smile.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-lightweight-automatic/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1499787047&sr=1-4&keywords=battery+tender

Make sure it has a full tank of fuel.

And that's about it if all you're doing is storing it for a winter.

A cover is a nice-to-have to keep it from collecting a huge layer of dust/grime and to protect it from a winter of people brushing against it if it's in the flow of traffic.

Do not put it on jack stands. Dangling wheels aren't good for all the rubber bits in your suspension. Just make sure there's air in your tires and they'll be fine after seasonal storage.

The Scion FR-S has the same issue, sounds like a clown car. It's like, "I'M SO MAD," meep. So I bought some Hella Supertones and everything was right with the world again, I could be angry and actually HONK at people.

I had the front bumper off to install an oil cooler anyway so install was relatively simple and I believe you can do it by just removing the undertray and not the whole bumper, I have no idea what you would have to do for your Matrix though. The horns came with a relay but the FR-S already has one so I didn't use it, not sure about the Matrix, you'll have to Google that. For the low tone I just spliced in to the 2 cables going to the stock horn and the high tone had a single cable which I spliced in to for a live source and ran a cable from the mounting bolt for ground.

Google's your friend, you might even be able to buy a wiring harness to ease things along. I'm a dumbass and managed this pretty easily, good luck :).

Or just buy the bluetooth cassette adapter. $20, but it works awesome. https://www.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC

why do you need them all in one?

There's a Stanley jumpstarter/compressor, and here's an off brand (I think) fast charger.

Together they're $107, with free shipping if you have prime (it may also be free economy shipping too).

I have a large portable pack that charges pretty well but its pretty big

https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-J5C09-Jump-Starter-Compressor/dp/B002X6VXL4/ref=zg_bs_318336011_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E15ZRP18HQF033EHAJNX

I'd recommend Gummi Pflege Stift instead. There is no better rubber care product:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been making my way through this recently, I think it's exactly what you're looking for. Although my next step is to find one that goes more in depth!

Amazon has a ton of great car books.

A fantastic book I highly recommend is How Cars Work. It covers everything from pushrod and dohc engines to the AC system. It's written in a non technical way and really a quick read.

I think that /u/rld14 pretty much covered it. But there are a few things I would add. Some of these may not apply to you, but this thread could be useful to others.

• Put the battery on a Battery Tender. You can do this in the storage unit if there is a power outlet (unlikely), or you can take the battery home and hook it up there.
  
  
• Add a fuel conditioner like STA-BIL to prevent the ethanol in the fuel from absorbing water. This should be done in addition to filling up the tank completely.
  
  
• If you don't know what kind of washer fluid was used, make sure to drain the washer tank. The previous owner may have used a summer blend that is not freeze resistant.
  
  
• Check the coolant/anti-freeze with a coolant tester If your coolant is old or too dilute it could freeze in the block during storage. That would be a nasty surprise come spring!

Do you know what I do with my in-dash media system? I put this on top of it and never turn it on.

I love android, but I doubt I will ever use any car's media system. They're all so shitty. All of them. I have yet to see a single one that didn't suck. Even BMW's iDrive blows. Tesla makes one that seems okay, but for the price you pay for it there are so many cars that are better.

These kits are pretty good. Takes around 30 minutes per light.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GFTC0E/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1395025061&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40

Toothpaste if you feel like spending almost nothing, but unless you apply a protectant it'll oxidize pretty quickly.

this is what I use along with a wax every few months and headlights don't oxidize anywhere near as quickly

Do a top-side oil change.

All you need is this $80 manual pump from Amazon, a new oil filter for you car, and the tool to open the oil filter housing (which depends on your car).

This is safer and much easier than going under the car. Plus you don't risk stripping your oil pan.

This won't work if your car doesn't have a dipstick (like some BMWs)

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J5C09-Starter-Built-Compressor/dp/B002X6VXL4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416412116&sr=8-1&keywords=air+pump+jump+box

I have it, I love it, it works solid.

I bought this for my Honda Accord:

http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS32-Universal-Integration-Smartphones/dp/B004613FCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426779745&sr=8-1&keywords=isimple+tranzit

It works very well, in my opinion. It's an FM modulated aux input, but it's all hardwired so even though it's technically using radio and transmit it doesn't sound like it. Plus you have multiple mounting options. You can either use their bracket/enclosure, or you can drill holes and mount them wherever you want to make a custom look. Install was very easy, the hardest part I had was trying to figure out which wire to use as a power source. It also gives you a USB plug to plug your device into for charging.

I installed one of these and it works great for me. It basically plugs inline into the antenna and broadcasts directly to the antenna. Then you tube your radio to that station. I've never had a problem with it. Plus it adds a charging port in the car.

I just got this one...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRGOKQ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works excellently. After reading the reviews, I WILL NOT use it on the dash. I currently use it mounted to my window.

A local Asian auto accessory store. It's available online as well

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00150T13G/ref=twister_B01EZ7BS0Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Right now, I'm using a white musk scented air freshener. https://amzn.com/B0047Z9FWI

Any brand/shape will smell pretty much the same.

Picking up one of these kits was easily worth the money. My headlights were completely fogged over, so I used the toothpaste trick. Cleared it up a fair amount, but it was back to bad in about a month. Used that kit, took about an hour and some elbow grease, and they looked literally brand new when I was finished. 7 months later, they still look absolutely great.

Topsider is made in USA I think. I have one, works great:

https://www.amazon.com/America-5060-Topsider-Multi-Purpose-Removing/dp/B001445IZ8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Hella Supertones.

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003399801-Supertone-High-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI

118 DB. Sounds awesome. People GTFO of your way.

This stuff lasts for a long time, and it smells fucking amazing. http://www.amazon.com/Air-Spencer-000800-Squash-Freshener/dp/B001RJN56Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463593983&sr=8-3&keywords=air+spencer

I wired this into my last Crown Vic. It worked well and it allowed me to replace the "Airbag off" light in front of the passenger into a USB port for charging. I didn't end up using their mounting plate, instead opting to dremel a small hole for the switch and another for the port into the trim surrounding my trunk release button. It takes over a radio station, you flip the switch to block out other radio signal and it's nice and clear.

FM transmistters are garbage. However, I swear by this; a bluetooth casette adapter.

You could always use a wired one; but I've had little luck with those.

Have the Subaru inspected by a good mechanic for head gasket leaks (internal and external leaking signs). A leakdown test is a good test for them to do, and ask if they can try the radiator hydrocarbon test as an option, also known as a Combustion Leak Detector test.

Also, find out when the timing belt & water pump replacement was done last -- if it hasn't then you'd have to plan on it soon as the replacement schedule is at 105k miles. If the belt snaps all your valves will bend = trashed motor.

My girlfriend's family bought this for me one year.

https://www.amazon.com/Drop-Stop-Original-Patented-Filler/dp/B00BYH6C1E

Thanks, but no thanks.

If you want to bring any electronics, get a reasonable inverter. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/outlets-inverter-adapter-notebook-MRI3011BU/dp/B004MDXS0U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406487845&sr=8-1&keywords=inverter

Lets you charge your laptop while your car's on. Also, it has usb charging ports so you don't need need other adapters.

if your car has a tape player you can get a bluetooth cassette like this https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B00I3YLHAC

I use this to keep my vehicle's battery fresh:

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522698360&sr=1-4&keywords=battery+tender

It's all automatic, there isn't anything to adjust and you could keep it on your battery indefinitely.

A wall wart is where the transformer is built into the plug, usually a black cube about 2" with the dc wire coming off of it. The idea would be to have the AC to DC happen at the end of the AC line.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LX3AS6/ref=sxbs_sxwds-rbp2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2898770402&pd_rd_wg=jcBEg&pf_rd_r=R31605ND3DRXBXHCFY0C&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B004LX3AS6&pd_rd_w=JJTWW&pf_rd_i=battery+tender&pd_rd_r=JABMBT6QPDBKXR44DGY0&ie=UTF8&qid=1491332230&sr=2 or this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-lightweight-automatic/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000CITK8S&pd_rd_r=DE87QSEWNR2XHEWDTBQQ&pd_rd_w=AtVc4&pd_rd_wg=wduLj&psc=1&refRID=DE87QSEWNR2XHEWDTBQQ



You can always use a bigger wire than required to carry current, the length might be an issue but the currents are so low so it wouldn't be a concern esp. with the bigger wire, as long as you can make the connectors work.

Here are the connectors I was picturing. I use them for my RC batteries. You can clip the red and black together. https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Power-Products-Silver-Contacts/dp/B00BN0WMA2/ref=pd_cp_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BN0WMA2&pd_rd_r=2MKMXG57SB6NNP5BP3QG&pd_rd_w=HMJVM&pd_rd_wg=PTBBq&psc=1&refRID=2MKMXG57SB6NNP5BP3QG

It's not that hard to figure out a blown head gasket. Remove the radiator cap/resevoir cap and start the car. If you see bubbles coming out, it's probably blown. If you put your hand over the hole and it rapidly builds pressure, it's REALLY blown.

You don't want the car to run long enough to get hot and possibly burn you, when you're doing this.

We use this tool to be sure, the fluid will change colors if it's exhaust gas:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473001356&sr=8-3&keywords=block+tester

This is the one I have, Bestek 300W Power Inverter, handles a MacBook Pro and charging a phone and Ipad just fine.

Yeah, the iOttie I have (version 2) has an extending arm, and the length of it gets stabilized by a screw.

https://www.amazon.com/iOttie-Universal-Holder-iPhone-Samsung/dp/B00JRGOKQ8

My phone is close to my steering wheel

Many referred me to this book.

I have very little experience, but I have learned that you need to find out what your known values are (airflow, fuel pressure, timing) and adjust the fuel maps. Knowing exactly what your Air to Fuel ratio is a must. Once you have a target A/F ratio in mind, use your known parameters and adjust your fuel accordingly.

What is the output of your logs?

I am very OCD about my car and its paint. I also live in an apartment complex with no hose, no covered parking and lots of shitty parkers. I recommend hitting up r/autodetailing and checking out their wiki.

​

As for my own cirumstances, I don't have a clear bra or ceramic coats as I prioritize paying my student loans to hundred to thousands of dollards of paint protection. However, I clean my car using AMMO Frothe, and do paint correction every so often as needed with a DA, Maguiars 205 and 105, and some Chemical Guys orange and white pads. I used Wolfgang Gloss 3.0 sealant on my car before winter and every month during the warmer months. If the car needs it, I'll do a gentle clay application before sealing.

​

Edit: This is the DA I use, but I recommend getting a separate velcro backing plate to mount reusable pads. Full disclosure, my gf works for the corporate parent company of Porter-Cable, and I got the thing dirt cheap.

Most of the suction cup ones I’ve seen have the bottom peg able to slide left and right to allow the six port to be exposed regardless of the phone.

this is the one I have

You can sub to channels like Engineering Explained. /Drive also had a small series where they brought in different people from different areas of cars to give their input. They had exhaust people, engine builders, turbo specialists, etc.

Engineering Explained

Drive Playlist

I started reading this by Tom Newton. Once I read the entire thing I then started to research into each category specifically.

https://www.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC

It's called Drop Stop. Started as a pitch on shark tank.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0966862309/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's a link to the kit with sealant: 3M 39045 Headlight Renewal Kit with Protectant

Non-mobile: CD Player phone mount

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003399801-Supertone-High-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI

one word:
Topsider

Squash

I used these a lot back in the day. I recently picked one up again, such nostalgia.

Hee you go: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004B8GTQG/

CD Player phone mount.

http://www.amazon.com/America-5060-Topsider-Multi-Purpose-Removing/dp/B001445IZ8

I don't know why a shop with a pit would use one as it's slower than draining the oil and some factory manuals say not to do it (since it doesn't drain / alert you to anything sitting in the bottom of the pan, for one), but it is a real thing.

Pro Tip: get these people, saved my ass multiple times

That's nothing more than an oil extractor. The VW TDI guys have been doing this for years-I use a Mityvac 7201. This figures, since Audi's are really just overpriced VW's anyway, but still there's nothing special about this. All you're doing is just sucking the oil out throught the dipstick-takes a little longer but you don't have to crawl underneath the car to drain it.

Apply Gymi Pfledge to the seals on the roof every 6 months to a year. There should also be drain holes in the A piller. Check that those are clear as well. There should also be a set in the roof compartment but I doubt those would clog easily.

For the roof it, since it is halting outright and not struggling, symptom of hydraulic issues ask me how I know, It almost certainly is a sensor that is failing. You may be able to get a special code reader (at least on the E46, the convertible module is not readable by standard OBDII readers) for the module to read which sensor is bad or you have to test each sensor on the car.

You want this book. Be aware that the concepts are math heavy.

This book may also be helpful, I've never read that one so I can't say.

The guy who wrote the first book - Greg Banish - was a tuner for several manufacturers and taught a tuning class/seminar for a while.

Do you have a CD player? I've used this one for years, but there are a number of cheaper versions now. The only downside to them is they might lose their grip over time and try to spring open, but I opened mine up and solved that by clipping and stretching the spring. Or, they're cheap enough that you could just buy a new one if that happens.

Drop Stop - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYH6C1E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OnD5CbGVJGGXR

Get some Hella, Super Tones. Everyone will hear the damn train horn from hell.

Well, your first mistake was waiting a full day to vacuum it... You honestly couldn't have made a bigger mistake then that. At least it was soup and not coffee. Did it spill on the actual carpet or on the floor mat and some on the carpet? I would try one of these, they can over power anything from marijuana smoke to dead bodies to soup baking in the hot sun:

http://www.amazon.com/Air-Spencer-CS-X3-Freshener-Squash/dp/B00150T13G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342564029&sr=8-2&keywords=air+spencer

Otherwise, continue trying some carpet cleaners or perhaps buy some odor eliminator at a department store.

sounds like the head gasket.

you probably can sniff the exhaust after driving it and smell coolant coming from there. Its also trashing the catalytic converter by running coolant through it.

The gasket fails on the exhaust side of the gasket, coolant wont leak into the oil, nor will it blow blue smoke because its usually a very slow leak, the system will hold pressure, and depending upon how bad the gasket is you may not see any major symptoms.

As the gasket fails more what you will get is a little bit of coolant will leak into the combustion chamber(s) if it sits overnight, then on cold start it will misfire or idle funny for about 2 or 3 seconds, then it will smooth itself out.

This is a good home tester, you put the chemical into the tube and hold it over the radiator cap, if the fluid changes yellow from blue that means exhaust gas is getting into the coolant. This was how I determined what was wrong with my civic.

Had the head gasket done about 12K miles ago and haven't had any issues since. The shop resurfaced the head, did the timing belt and water pump along with a fresh set of spark plugs and a new serpentine belt to the tune of about $1200.

Get yourself one of these

Don't waste your time and money on a timing belt/water pump just yet.

This model of Honda is common for head gasket failures, in the exact same way you described. I had the very same issue happen with my 2005 Civic, which basically is the same car.

it was slowly loosing coolant because it was getting past the exhaust seal of the head gasket and blowing out the combustion chamber, the car would also misfire usually on a cold startup, then run just fine, I was able to drive the car like this for a few weeks by just bleeding the cooling system, but eventually it got so bad that the excess exhaust pressure would blow back through the cooling system and cause coolant to leak from the radiator cap. The reason why there is no puddles under the engine is because its blowing by the exhaust and going through the exhaust system, on a cold start you probably will see some coolant come out of the muffler. The longer you let this go, the more likely its going to damage the catalyst

when you get the head gasket done, make sure the water pump, and timing belt get done, its a no brainer to have this done while the head is off the engine anyway.

My indie shop did the whole shebang for about $1200, I got a deal.