I'll try to knock these off for you:

1. I am in good shape and consider myself a 5.12 climber. The Nose beat me up pretty good. This is not a brag but to show truly how hard the nose is to climb. Most people read the rating and think 5.8 C2...yeah I can climb that. You may be able to climb the 5.8 pitches but if you are truly aiding everything else, you will be the cause of a traffic jam and likely not make it to the top in even 5 days. People bail all the time, even from 3/4 of the way up the route. Pitches take longer and the work is harder than you think. I had done some casual aiding before this trip, but i spent about a month before i left practicing my aid climbing and getting faster at it. It will save you tons of time. Learn how to top step, back clean pieces and be able to switch between aiding and freeing efficiently (a mix of aiding and free climbing efficiently is a very good skill to have). Free climbing is so much faster than aiding. If you can free or french free most of the pitches below the great roof it will save you a lot of time. Things really start to slow down when you get up to the great roof and this is where strong aid climbing truly shines. I went with a partner that had done the salathe last year so he had a good grasp on systems and was a better aider than me. I climbed most of the free pitches of 5.10 and below while he did the harder C2 aids. We did not practice together as he was in a different state before we met up but i basically read this book https://www.amazon.com/How-Wall-Climb-Chris-McNamara/dp/0983322511 and practiced a lot before i got to yosemite. It covers a good amount on aid climbing but you will also want some supplemental material for bag work. I suggest Mark hudon's technique for docking and cutting the haul bag https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWCZ6ahP60E&t=323s. It works great. Haul bag line is always on top.
   
2. The worst thing on the wall was the piss smell. It is something people don't talk about but everyone pisses all over the ledges on the upper pitches of the nose. We peed in our empty water bottles at this point and dumped them out at the top. As far as gear goes, we did not use a 3:1 pulley system and instead used a micro traxion to haul with. With six gallons of water and one gallon of Gatorade....i wish we would have bought the Petzl Pro Traxion to have a larger pulley but still a 1:1 system. Setting up 3:1's is a pain unless you absolutely need it. We climbed in 4-6 hour blocks and sometimes you are hauling 80 lbs on a tiny pulley after leading the pitch with 30 lbs of gear on your harness and back. It becomes exhausting. Another thing i wish i would have brought was lighter approach shoes. My approach shoes were too heavy and wearing them on my harness all the time when free climbing was extra weight i didn't need. Get something light but also be able to aid climb efficiently with. Also probably buy the full gear harness. We went with the metolius multi loop D but could have used a backpack style like the Cassin Salathe Gear Sling or the Misty Mountain Big Wall Gear Sling. You want to be able to take it off to switch between partners as well. Load a single sling up with triples and see how heavy it gets. Get one good set of aiders with spreader bars and another set of speed stirrups for jugging. Switch them back and fourth between the leader and follower.
   
3. Three days felt like a big push but it was only because of other parties. We originally fixed to sickle ledge (first four pitches) but when we got up there at 6 am the next morning there was a party of germans and another three aussies in line. We were able to pass them later that afternoon but it ate up about 7 hours of our easy free climbing time waiting on these slow teams. This put us at el cap tower at just after midnight that first night. After that our sleep was messed up and we had a long 17 hour push to get to camp 5 which had us stumbling into camp at 3:30 am. With that we did pass another 3 teams but got stuck behind another slow team the next morning and due to waiting on them topped out at 10:30 that night. With all that, i would say try to fix and then get up really early the first morning and other mornings after that. Most teams bail by dolt tower if they are too slow so if you can get past the slow initial parties that first morning you should be in the clear for a three day ascent. We went without a portaledge which meant we had to meet our objectives (el cap tower and camp five). If you do bring a portaledge you can stop wherever but it is also extra weight and shit to deal with. If you do it in three days and it is your first big wall in yosemite it is going to be hard. It is doable but have your hauling and aid climbing dialed. You really never know what other parties are going to be doing and how it will effect your ascent. There are a lot of people up there who don't know what they are doing and you don't want to be the people holding up the conga line.
   
   ​
   
   Doing some work in Zion is a good idea to get you ready for the Nose. Not sure about which routes you are trying there but after you have your systems dialed in I would suggest getting on something that wanders quite a bit. The Nose works from left to right for the first third of the wall and then back to the left for the second half. You will need to get good at lower outs for the follower and for the haul bag. This was something that I didn't see as much of a big deal before we climbed it but had to use a lot. Make sure you know how to set up a clean anchor (I prefer bringing two pre-built quads for anchors) and manage ropes well. Transition time should be quick and efficient. If it isn't you can eat up a whole day's worth of time just fucking with ropes and switching gear back and fourth.
   
   ​
   
   If all that wasn't perfectly clear you can ask for more details on certain aspects. It is a big undertaking and you cannot be over prepared. I would still do it in a three day ascent because i hate hauling and it is less weight but other like vertical camping. If you are not doing a three day i suggest bringing a portaledge.

Here are the best resources I've found. I will say this though: Find a solid climbing mentor to teach you all the safety basics (belaying, knots, anchors, etc.). I've only been climbing a little over a year, and I've seen some of the dumbest/craziest stuff outside already. It's good to read books and watch videos, but always have someone who knows that they're doing to check and double check that you're safe. Ask lots of questions--you only have one life and you don't want to die (or kill/hurt someone) from a dumb mistake that could be prevented.

• The Self-Coached Climber - This is a great book on movement. It comes with a DVD that shows you drills to improve your footwork and technique. (Here's a link to some of the drills.)
  
• 9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes - This book I read and re-read constantly in the bathroom. There are no pictures, but he has little advice and thoughts about training and climbing that really help. I've found it more helpful the longer I've climbed.
  
• How to Climb 5.12 - Excellent training advice for climbing. How can you argue when this guy's ten year old son put up a first ascent of a 5.14a in Maple Canyon?
  
• Rock Warrior's Way - This is a great book for mental training for climbing. It will help more if you ever get into lead climbing/trad.
  
• Freedom of the Hills - This is the Bible of climbing/mountaineering.
  
• Climbing Anchors - John Long's book is one of the best. Make sure you have a good mentor though to help you and check your systems.
  
• Improve Your Climbing with Neil Gresham - Great video for technique on overhangs. The full version is worth watching too if you can find it online.
  
• Mountain Project's School of Rock - Lots of general info and videos.
  
  Stay safe, find a mentor, and ask lots of questions.

Sounds like you did a very strenuous move at one point. Do you ever throw for a move with your arm completely extended and jerk at the shoulder/upper arm as you catch it? Do you climb with bent arms often? Either of those may be to culprit.

First and foremost - focus on your footwork. Think of relaxing your grip and climbing with relaxed, straight arms whenever possible. You should constantly be engaging, and pushing with your feet first (to take pressure off your arms); then rotating, and pulling with your lats diagonally across your chest to maximize reach while using a larger muscle group.

Work on as many easy problems as possible in your next training session while making sure every movement you do is static and based on technique, rather than power. No jerking; just relaxed, comfortable movements. Every movement you do should be as efficient as possible. To get a sense of what I'm talking about, watch strong female climbers - they typically have far better technique than most men.

Work on Antagonistic muscle exercises, specifically the extensor muscles in you arms; this will help prevent injury.

Do Reverse Wrist curls religiously before each workout and Wrist Pronators after - these work the forearm and elbow to help prevent tendinitis in the elbow.

Alternatively, you can do rice bucket exercises. These are excellent exercises to prevent injury and increase overall stability in the wrists, elbows, and forearms. Some gyms use large buckets of sand - same deal.

You're working a lot of pull muscles in climbing -always be sure to work the opposing muscles to round-out this increased volume. Try to do 2 sets of dips or push ups every other day to even this out.

Also, if you REALLY want to get better then watch some climbing videos. You'll start to subconsciously soak up the techniques top-level climbers use and then you'll say to yourself, "Hey, this move's kinda like that one I saw in the video!" Watch the great movers and shakers. Also, consider getting the book 9 out of 0 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes

To get inspired, watch this.

Hope some of this helped

EDIT: Also, this is Lynn Hill - the first PERSON to ever free climb The Nose on El Cap. She's truly incredible. Listen to what she has to say - it's something climbers will go for years before realizing.

EDIT2: You likely shouldn't be Hang-boarding if you're a beginner - you're going to get injured. Climbing on the holds themselves are the best training for finger strength right now. As you progress, hang boarding will have more of a return on your time spent.

Also, you shouldn't be doing multiple sessions in a row. Your body needs time to rest, and if you're constantly stressing it, it'll never improve.

Again - training does not make you stronger, it only initiates the growth process. REST is where that growth is made. You'll come back stronger after a periodic rest between sessions.

I would first follow several trad climbs and inspect your leader's placements. Then practice placing a ton of gear on the ground and practice making anchors on the ground. Get somewhat comfortable with placing cams and nuts, have your trad friends inspect them, and pull really hard on them while you're on the ground. Then do several mock trad leads where you're on top rope, but pretend you are leading. Connect yourself to your gear and jump on them while on top rope to test your placements. Then go lead a very easy single pitch route. Always have your more experienced friends give you critiques on your placements. When you feel comfortable leading pitches, building anchors, and belaying from the top, go lead a multipitch. Congrats, you're a multipitch trad leader!

These are basically the steps I followed, with my more experienced wife helping me all the way through, and it worked well for me. Now I'm leading 5.7/5.8 multipitch trad routes. I followed about 5 trad routes, mock lead about 5 routes, and placed a couple hundred pieces of gear on the ground before my first lead. Later on, I read through this book, and practiced the self rescue techniques, which was really helpful and made me more confident that I would be able to deal when the shit hits the fan someday.

Given that you've been climbing for less than a year, my suggestion would be that the biggest thing that will boost your climbing is technique work, and endurance work, but especially technique work. If you haven't already, buy The Self Coached Climber, read it, and do all of the exercises contained therein to jump start your technique improvement.

As far as gaining muscle versus losing weight, since climbing is all about functional strength, I'd suggest that losing weight is going to have a much more rapid and prominent effect. In the long run though, both leaning out and gaining muscle (that helps with your climbing, not that doesn't help with your climbing) will probably help a little bit. Plus, losing weight helps with the endurance bit of things.

Of course, I'm sure you've noticed someone at the crag or gym who climbs much harder than you do, but isn't nearly as strong as you are, is about as heavy or heavier than you are, and might even be a bit shorter than you are. If not, really look around the next few times you're climbing. The difference is all in technique. This is pretty much why the best women climbers have climbed 5.14d (has anyone done a 5.15a yet?), and the best male climbers, despite obviously having more strength and height as well as a MUCH lower body fat percentage, have only ever climbed three letter grades harder than that.

If you are truly curious and you want to expand your knowledge such that you can more safely operate within a wider variety of top access scenarios, consider investing in some of these books:

• Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills
  
• Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual
  
• Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide Book
  
  Sure, you may certainly get by in life perfectly fine with substantially less knowledge, but if you are posting here with a question as thoroughly written out as the one you have here, you are likely interested in having a larger "toolkit" to feel more confident when approaching these types of situations. These books (among others) will, without a doubt, greatly enhance your anchor building and risk management "toolkit".
  
  Consider, for instance, that if you are carrying a static "setup rope" for top rope anchors, there are numerous ways to leverage it to establish both a high master point (away from the edge) and an instructor tether to allow yourself to control your movement around, near, and over the edge without exposing yourself to the risk of falling while you establish a low master point over the edge for a top rope anchor. Sometimes this may be overkill and sometimes it may be precisely what you need to feel confident in this type of situation. Having this knowledge on tap allows you to make more informed decisions.
  
  Two examples of these types of systems are
  
  
• the backside system
  
• and perhaps more awesomely the three in one.
  
  If you want to learn more about those systems, the SPI manual has a reasonable primer on each of them. Personally, I like the Donahue/Luebben Mastering Basic Skills book a little bit more if I had to pick one of the two, but you cannot go wrong with either one.
  
  Best of luck.

Thorough this is not but it does go over the basics. Pleas don't use it solely as your means of learning to climb. Some of their videos showed improper technique. Climbing on lead is dangerous and subtle. a simple mistake can cost you your life.

For climbing rescue you should get the book from the mountaineers. It's very good and pretty damn cheap.

I personally don't care for the freedom of the hills as much as everyone loves it. It's good but not as deep as a specialized book is. For instance Long's book on anchors is excellent and the freedom of the hills only goes over some basic stuff regarding that.

Best bet would probably be some kind of Wilderness First Aid course along with learning some rope rescue skills.

If you're in an area with lots of backcountry activities close by, finding a Wilderness First Aid course shouldn't be an issue. There's also tons of information online and in books to read up about, though book smarts are no substitute for putting those skills to the test in mock scenarios (which is hopefully the extent you'd end up using those skills in).

For rope rescue, depending on where you are, local guide companies, outdoor centres, etc. likely have rope rescue courses you could take.

In regards to rope rescue books, I can't personally recommend a specific one, but a bunch of books on the topic exist such as this one. Though I'm sure someone else here can recommend a book they've personally read.

Also based on your Canada flair, joining the Alpine Club of Canada would be a great idea. Your local chapter would likely offer tons of opportunities not only for courses such as first aid and rope rescue, but also organized climbing days along with various other activities.

Just bought this today:

How to Climb Harder.

Seems like it has a pretty nice package of information.

I also checked out Dave MacLeod's book and Self-Coached Climber at the store, but I found this one most interesting, because it seems to have clear instructions on a lot of lead climbing stuff too (should be starting course soon).

Might get the Self-Coached Climber later (it has a DVD too), but it looked a bit text heavy. Dave McLeod's book is about fixing mistakes, but I don't feel that I have gotten to a level yet where this might be of interest (still progressing decently, imo).

Also, see if there are technique lessons available at your gym or see if you can start climbing with someone you feel is (much) better than you. Advice from some one analyzing your climbing specifically might net you faster results. I did a course to get to 5.10 level and it was a lot of fun and very helpful. It also helps me a lot in explaining new climbers what they should be looking for or trying in a structured manner.

I ordered a set of cams and met up with my friend who taught me what a good placement vs bad placement is. Then I lead 3 short routes and he asked which of my placements I thought was best and worst. We agreed on them and then climbed a 5 pitch spire the next day. I drove home (we live in different cities ~2 hours away) and taught my newb friend. my newb friend and I have had a sketchy situation or two but nothing serious.
****
Best thing I can recommend is two books

1. Climbing anchors by John Long

2. Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills.

The biggest thing you'll learn from them is that Rock quality is the thing that will get you killed. As in don't place gear in a flake or anything that is going to move.
**
Place gear around ground level and hang on it. Learn what works. Find a super easy climb and lead it, You're going to fumble with sizes for awhile. Don't get discouraged. Soon you'll fall in love. Trad climbing is sweet.

I strongly suggest to pretty much anyone interested in climbing outdoors to read up on climbing rescue and self-rescue. Once you have a solid grasp on the techniques, test them out in a gym setting. Knowing how to properly lock off a belay device, take the tension off of it using a friction hitch above it, then escaping the belay to ascend the rope can literally save a life. I've heard that if a climber is unconscious and upside down, in general he has about 15 minutes to live. This means that a good grasp of these techniques is critical to ensuring the survival of the climber is such situations.

Suggested reading:

• Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills
  
• Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations
  
  Be safe out there!

This is an excellent read that will get you started on improving your technique. And if, like me, you benefit more from seeing stuff in action as opposed to text and diagrams, this is something you will find very helpful. There are some excerpts from those DVD's on YouTube if you want to check it out before buying. Those are both excellent resources, but you really will need to climb more if you want to get better. Knowing the technique, and knowing when to apply it aren't quite the same. It gets said a lot, but the best way to get better at climbing is to climb.

Prusiking is tiring, and it takes a little practice to get the rhythm down. I'd imagine that the skill could be life-saving, someday.

I've found the ascending videos by the Cornell Tree Climbers to be really informative: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2FED1B889E749C21

The "Texas Kick" video illustrates the most common ascending technique.

As for self-rescue, I have this book. It has a lot of information, but I found it really difficult to read or learn from. I think the best way to learn the complicated self rescue stuff is hands on with a trainer. Black and white pictures of knots didn't really work for me, but you might find the book
helpful!

Strangely, I really liked the climbing anchors book from the same series. I thought that its layout was more textbook-like and easier to understand that the frequently recommended Climbing Anchors by John Long. They're both good if you want resources on anchor-building.

Rock Warrior's Way (https://warriorsway.com/the-rock-warriors-way-mental-training-for-climbers-2/)

If you're interested in trad climbing: Climbing Anchors by John Long (https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Climb-John-Long/dp/0762782072)

Training for the New Alpinism (http://www.patagonia.com/product/training-for-the-new-alpinism/BK695.html)

Freedom of the Hills is rad, but I've found a little broad and hard to read continuously. For climbing technique, I've found YouTube videos a little more useful, I mostly use books for safety and mental techniques, though I've heard good things about the Crack Climber's Technique Manual (https://www.fixedpin.com/products/the-crack-climbers-technique-manual)

And if you're looking for something that's more of a fun read, I'd really recommend Valley Walls (https://www.amazon.com/Valley-Walls-Memoir-Climbing-Yosemite/dp/1930238630)

The Self-Coached Climber book shows lots of great drills for improving footwork precision and introducing twisting and flagging (counter balancing with your legs). The popular opinion is that you should dedicate some time to these drills as part of a warm-up. I believe you can check out the text in some detail on Google Books. Buying it also gets you the DVD, which shows the drills in real time.

As for the steep/roof climbing, it's a matter of pressing as much of your weight through your feet as possible by using - primarily - your core and hamstring muscles. Try this: Get yourself hanging on a couple of sizeable roof jugs with your toes in some equally huge footholds. Keeping your arms straight, pull your (mostly lower) body as close to the roof as you can. With your arms straight, you're engaging your legs/lower trunk rather than back/biceps - It transfers some weight to your feet and improves friction with the footholds. The more stable your foot positioning, the easier it is to initiate movement from your legs - even on a roof.

Building anchors isn't rocket science, but it does hold a couple of important considerations (and why watching a video isn't going to be sufficient):

• There are a multitude of ways you can build a strong anchor and many more ways to mess it up. Messing it up obviously carries a high consequence. A video can't teach you all the right and wrong ways to build an anchor.
  
• Building anchors is not a strictly procedural process like cleaning a sport route where you can watch a video and follow steps 1 to 10 and it'll be 99% the same everywhere you go. Building anchors requires an understanding of concepts, not procedures (because what you encounter for an anchor placement will vary) - such as what qualifies as a bomber anchor, how to ensure you have redundancy throughout the entire anchor, limitations of gear, etc.
  
  Should you take a class? Maybe if you want some hands-on experience. I would suggest that you do your share of the reading first, you might not need the class, or if do take one you'll have a better understanding of what is being taught and be able to ask thoughtful questions.
  
  Some reading:
  
  
• Anchors in Earnest (PDF)
  
• Trad Anchors (4 parts) and Top Rope Anchors
  
• Climbing Anchors (book: John Long, Bob Gaines)
  
• For fun you can check out Jive-Ass Anchors for what not to do (sadly no new updates).

First things first, go out and buy a copy of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills.

That book will be a fantastic primer on all things mountaineering and alpinism, it's widely considered the bible of mountaineering and has been updated several times by top alpinists and guides. It should get you comfortable with climbing some less technical peaks near you. To find some peaks to climb and route information look at Summitpost.
And lastly for training for mountaineering buy a copy of Training for the new Alpinism. The book was written by Steve House, world renowned alpinist, and Scott Johnston, his training coach. The book only covers how to train your body to prepare for climbing and covers everything from diet, to mental training, to sports science.

Lastly, see if you can join your local mountaineering club and find a mentor.

Be safe. Have fun. Don't die.

there's a training program in Training for climbing by Horst,

the self coached climber

and The rock climber's training manual

I like the 2nd and 3rd the best, the 2nd I'd recommend for newer climbers (the footwork drills are very thorough), and the 3rd I'd recommend because it has a chapter that focuses on bouldering.

I don't really think you absolutely need a book, there are plenty of resources online to put together a solid plan, but a book is nice too :)

The best plan for fontainebleau is to throw yourself at slopers. Just watch your wrists.

"I just need to get stronger" literally every new climber ever.

EDIT: Since this is a popular comment, I feel like I should elaborate. 1) Yes, strength to weight ratio matters. But the point of this video - and the fundamental point that beginning climbers should emphasize technique - is that you can make instant gains with the right technique. Getting stronger/lighter takes time. Technique is something you can focus on right then and there. 2) The techniques in this video will improve your functional strength and efficiency at every level of climbing, forever. You can get out of shape, but you will never lose these techniques. Training technique is never lost time! 3) Properly applying these techniques will make the difference at EVERY level of climbing. They will let you do harder moves and climb longer, whether you're trying to break into V2 or 5.12. 4) Beginners blame this on strength because they feel weak. We all feel weak climbing at our limit! But they have not yet discovered how technical skills allow you to do more with less strength.

These are not my ideas. They are stolen mostly from 2 great books, How to Climb 5.12 and The Self-Coached Climber.

Thanks OP for an awesome video!

I stared climbing because I wanted to be outside, and I don't buy it that people have to start in the gym and move outside when they are ready. As such, I climb outside every weekend and treat the gym like a gym.

That being said, I haven't taken the REI class, but, I suspect if you take that class, and read a book like this, you will be fine to start top-rope climbing outside (edit: take a class before you bother buying this book). Just make sure you feel comfortable. Most of outdoor climbing is being careful, thinking things though, not getting in over your head, and not overestimating your abilities (climbing and knowledge).

Meetup groups could also be a good idea, just be honest about your prior experience (for example, here is my local meetup group).

Also, some gyms offer indoor->outdoor transition classes.

Lots and more literature, but it basically breaks down to:

1. climbing (often trad)
   
   
2. anchor building (sometimes with bolts, sometime not)
   
   
3. belaying from either above or below
   
   
4. gear management (much more complex than single pitch)
   
   Seconded on Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills as a great overview of all of this (and much more).
   
   My favorite anchor management book is Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide
   
   EDIT: and of course the usual caution. Don't try this without proper instruction.

Consider supplementing your classes with some books. Bob Gaines new AMGA Manual, the classic Luebben climbing book, and Luebben's anchor book are all excellent. John Long has a new Trad Climbers Bible, haven't read it though. I find him wordy and often not as clear as others.

Note that Luebben suggests to spend a day every year climbing with an expert guide to make sure you're solid.

If you want a specific recommendation: BEFORE YOUR CLASS: Pick up the three books above and read them. Take notes on what you don't understand. Look to online forums and videos for answers. Buy some gear and practice placing the gear outside. Have a piece of rope you keep on your couch. Practice knots while watching TV. FOR YOUR CLASS: Once you've done this, then take a class with an expert. Bring all the questions you've come up with. Take notes and get your guides contact info so you can stay in touch after. AFTER YOUR CLASS, continue reviewing the books (which will make more sense), start climbing easy single pitch stuff outside, email new questions to your guide. Take an anchors course if it's available, particularly before getting into multi-pitch.

Have fun & good luck!

EDIT: Check out r/tradclimbing and their excellent FAQ.

The greatest help is increasing your aerobic fitness. The more oxygen your body can process per breath and more volume your heart is trained to pump per contraction the lower your respiratory and heart rate will be.

When I have been doing regular aerobic work I can ski tour or climb above 10k without slowing down at all. When I haven't been running I turn into a huffing and puffing mess (like I did climbing at 10k last week).

The frequency of your aerobic work is more important, low intensity is fine. If you have a choice between running 20 minutes a day 3 days a week or for 2 hours once a week, take the former.

If you really want to get into there is a wealth of information here:
https://www.amazon.com/Training-New-Alpinism-Climber-Athlete/dp/193834023X

I'm pretty sure most people will be reticent to give advice over t'internet about setting up anchors because when you teach someone you want to be sure that they've got the hang of it before they try it in the wild. Try and go out with an experienced friend and set up some dummy anchors and then go through your first proper anchor with experienced friend(much cheaper than paying instruction)

In the mean time this is a cheap good book full of diagrams. Good luck with your outside climbing, totally different experience from the(slightly sterile) indoor climbing world

Maybe this is too practical - but I expect all my partners to at least know the basics of self rescue. This is a great supplement to taking a multi day rescue class. They can be expensive but worth EVERY dollar.

http://amzn.com/089886772X

I've never done a course inside, but I've done a couple of winter climbing courses outside (notes: course 1, course 2), and they were totally worth it. I had a great time and have used lots of the stuff I learned. A friend of mine did an "advanced movement" course at her local gym and claims it helped her technique a lot, particularly on steep terrain.

You might find the books The Self-Coached Climber and 9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes helpful. The first covers the nuts and bolts of technique and training; the second is more about how best to make use of the limited climbing time you have, and how to avoid getting stuck in a rut.

I haven't gotten all the way through it, but the Self Coached Climber is pretty good. Was free on Kindle a while back, but the physical book might be a bit better for the illustrations.

Glad to hear your making the transition to the outdoors. It's an amazing and well worth while endeavor.

Honestly, i would take a class or go with someone well experienced. I know this is what a lot of people say and i might seem redundant, but it really is true.

The reason I stand behind my opinion is that it's not very hard to learn how to set up a top rope on bolted anchors and master that skill. The hard part is knowing how to keep your self out of danger during the process and if you get into danger, how to bail yourself out.

The gym is a very controlled and regulated environment. The outdoors isn't. When climbing outside, there are always unexpected issues and problems that you need to make a judgement call on. I would just recommend that you have a solid foundation of knowledge and at least some first hand experience from someone that you trust, before you potentially get into a situation over your head.

When i first started, this book helped me a lot to fill in any small gaps of knowledge. It is not a supplement for first hand experience though.

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

Look into it. I do know some people that learned to lead trad from friends. If so, make sure you do the following:

1. Follow a friend and inspect his placements as you clean them.
   
2. Practice placing pieces while standing on solid ground, and have an experienced friend check out and critique your placements.
   
3. If you can get two other people, try a "mock lead" on TR, with one person on TR belay and another person on lead belay. Make sure the TR belay is nice and loose and try hanging on a piece on your lead rope. Maybe even try a bit of a fall. If you can only get one other person, still do the mock lead, but trail the rope with no belay. You won't get the experience of weighting or falling on gear, but placing a piece while on the rock is still way, way different from placing a piece on solid ground.
   
4. Read Traditional Lead Climbing by Heidi Pesterfield. Cover to cover. http://www.amazon.com/Traditional-Lead-Climbing-Climbers-Taking/dp/0899974422/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1309779139&sr=8-2
   
5. Only after you have done all of the above, try a lead climb on something stupid easy. Have an experienced friend inspect your placement. Ask him if any cams walked or tipped out; if cams were undercammed; if nuts or hexes were too close to the edge and liable to blow; etc.
   
6. Read Climbing Anchors, by John Long. http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-2nd-How-Climb/dp/0762723262/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1309779148&sr=8-1 This is must-know stuff; without a bolt line to follow, you could go off-route and need to build an anchor to bail off.
   
7. Read up on rock rescue; this is a good book: http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Self-Rescue-Improvising-Mountaineers/dp/089886772X/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1309779184&sr=8-5
   
   Good luck, and climb on.

Freedom of the hill is very complete but mostly for mountaineering, less useful for general rock climbing. It can also be a bit dated in places. Still very useful to own, read and eventually assimilate if you ever head into the mountains.

For general rock climbing, I think your best option by far is The self coached climber. Very complete and it covers a lot more than the basics.

I have to agree with this. There are plenty of other websites that are dedicated to climbing instruction and FAQs. Frankly, I would just point everyone to read Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. Keeping a running 'best of' or FAQ is a ton of work and people should just use the search if they care to see if something already exists. Hell, most of these questions have already been answered 100 times over on other climbing forums.

Every hobby subreddit has this same issue and I've yet to see a good solution for it. The only thing that has come close is a "New to climbing" section that has links to instructional websites, books, videos, manufactures, and other climbing related stuff.

I've used different methods: (1) find a patient belayer willing to belay you on top rope while you climb and set gear. I have one good buddy who had done a lot of trad back in the day but wasn't interested in leading any more so this approach was great because he was experienced enough to check my gear and give advice. (2) set a bunch of gear and build anchors while on the ground. (3) bring along some trad pro while sport climbing and try to find somewhere to place it even if it's unnecessary. (4) while seconding and cleaning look closely at the gear you're taking out and understand why it was placed however it was. (5) a lot of reading - the books on anchor building by John Long and Craig Luebben are great. I prefer Luebben's because he tends to be more descriptive of why certain placements are better/worse.

If you have your own gear (harness, shoes, belay device, chalk) you can start climbing on rock immediately if you find people who are willing to take you, and some of the gear I mentioned isn't strictly necessary (just suggested). I am sure there is a group of local climbers who will be willing to help you get climbing outdoors.

As for books, I personally like Rock Climbing: Mastering the Basics. Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills is also really good and comprehensive (though it covers much more than just rock climbing).

You should read Climbing Anchors by Luebben. It goes over sport and TR anchors very well.

As far as a PAS goes, sure you can use 2 PAS's but I will tell you that the PAS isn't what you need to be worried about when it comes to redundancy, it's the anchor. As long as you're not using your PAS beyond it being a rap tether and are continuing to monitor its wear, just as you would with a harness it has the exact same strength rating as your belay loop which you trust without backup when you rappel.

I'm still a little concerned about your rope as it looks short for most crags.

Lastly I'm not sure where you'll be climbing but if you're going to be setup TRs on bolted routes just make sure you have a safe way of accessing the anchors from above. A lot of times the bolts are over the edge of a route and the last thing you want to do is factor-two on your PAS.

I've done this exact class. There is a lot of practical anchor building esp. with natural anchors (all feet on the ground).

I found it to be okay. Afterwords, I needed to go find other information that was not covered for the type of climbing I want to do.

The course covers: Top Rope Anchors and the basics of knots. Using natural anchors.
The cover does not cover: TRAD anchors (well at least). Gear placement.

Its good to hear this information from an experienced guide. But alot is their preference on building anchors. So much of it you need to reteach yourself for what you will actually use regularly. I found self teaching to be a more worthwhile investment for my time.

TL;DR I found this John Long book to be more helpful than the REI course. (but thats just one man's opinion)

>Find a mentor.

A mentor will be the single best resource for you to grow as a climber and learn new skills. You can probably meet people at the local climbing areas. There are many skills that are very difficult to learn unless someone is there with you in person teaching you.

I recommend posting on partner finder and writing your name down at the closest gym even if its far, there might be someone there who also travels from your town every now and again.

Best of luck and until then enjoy bouldering and read The Single Pitch Manual and How to Rock Climb. Oh and listen to The Enormocast.

Others have mentioned key points. Getting comfortable with such things like multi-pitch sport (to get into the mental headspace), single pitch trad (need that gear knowledge), multi-pitch trad with bolted anchors (last step before going for completely trad).

What I'll add, and this is good for all climbing disciplines, is knowing some self-rescue techniques. Its just good stuff to know.
This book and this one are both good options. It will in general up your confidence in the mountains.

I think the reason people are surprised is that this movement is largely natural. Your body should seek the most balanced (easiest to maintain) position for any given set of holds. You'll find yourself climbing much more efficiently if you just focus on finding the most stable position.

Also, if you can't hold your hand over the next hold before touching it (lock off), you're probably not climbing statically. However, some moves either require or are more efficiently executed with dynamic movement (deadpoint or dyno).

Consider reading this book called the Self Coached Climber. It talks a lot about this stuff as well.

http://smile.amazon.com/Self-Coached-Climber-Movement-Training-Performance/dp/0811733394/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465002952&sr=8-1&keywords=self+coached+climber

I forgot to add, there are some great books out there that are super inspiring and useful.

Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition, by John Long

Self-Rescue, by David Fasulo, Mike Clelland

Big Walls, Paul Piana

In terms of getting the gear to actually make the anchor, go to Sports Basement, REI or basically any outdoors shop and ask them for like 30 feet of 8-10mm cordilette and 30 feet of 1" tubular webbing. It's super cheap having that much material to work with will help keep you from making ridiculous anchors like the one you posted above.

It also seems like buying How to Rock Climb and reading the anchor section would be extremely helpful for you.

The easiest way to find a friend who knows what's up and who is willing to take you out a bunch of times and teach you. Then you can start to purchase gear and do it on your own a bit.

You can ask around on Mountain Project forums or at the gym for people who would be interested in taking you out if you don't know anyone. If you go that route then a positive, open to new experiences attitude, an understanding of LNT and respecting the outdoors, and a six pack of beer generally go a long way.

Reading a book like John Long's Anchors is a good way to begin to learn, but probably not sufficient on its own.

If you can't find someone to teach you then many gyms offer classes on various topics. Start with a leading and lead belay class. Then move on to an anchors course. There's lots to learn and it's your life and safety at stake so take it slow.

See a doctor, yes!

I could give you more advice but it is not going to do any good now that you have a injury. Climbers should try to avoid injury as a number one rule, especially tendon injuries. Tendon injuries take a long time to heal and even longer before they return to full strength.

3-4 evenings a week? How long have you been climbing. How are those days broken up. Most training guides I have read say that three days in a row is the absolute most you should climb if you are an elite level climber. Less if you are not. Make sure you getting rest.

If you feel a twinge in your tendons your best bet is to stop. For some reason if you can not make yourself stop then tape is a good option. Seek resources that show you how to sport tape your tendons. The information is readily out there if you look.

Repeatedly I tell people to find this book Training for Climbing . He has done the hard work for you and breaks it down in a concise manner.

I would stress the fact to seek medical professional if possible. Especially if you have insurance. The type of shooting pain, while typing nonetheless, is not something you want to wait around on to get better. In the mean time I would buddy tape the hell out of those fingers (immobilizing them).

This is where the heated debate starts as many people will tell you many many many different things. I love ice. Lots of ice. In addition I love ibuprofen. Many people will tell you that neither of those items are effective after the initial injury and will even slow down healing. If you have swelling in your fingers I find those two items to be a matter of do not forget. ever. I would ask your doctor and do your own research to find out what works for you.

As far as future prevention. I would try not to hang off holds by two fingers! lol. Climbing on plastic is also very hard on the tendons. Put those two things together and you have trouble. Try to save your massive efforts for outdoor climbing if possible, if you are into that type of thing.

Otherwise I would say warming up is extremely important. EXTERMELY. Warm tendons are more lastic than cold ones. Also make sure you are exercising antagonistic muscles in your forearm (hammer curls, reverse wrist curls). You have no muscles in your hand (well, you do have some below your thumb) so when you are holding on it is the mainly the forearm muscle that is supplying the muscle. An unbalanced muscle structure will put stress unevenly on the rest of your body (tendons for example). Also remember your tape.

Lots of people will say 'climb more'', which is good.

I'd recommend helping yourself out by learning the techniques which typically come along with 'climb more' - especially if you don't have a load of more experienced climbers to copy regularly.

You'll want learn how and when to backstep, flag, drop knee etc. in order to climb more efficiently and effectively.

Go to some intermediate classes of you can afford it, or buy a book like 'Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance'

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004BJ1MPS/ref=dp-kindle-redirect?_encoding=UTF8&btkr=1

I've never read this book, but my friend references it all the time. It's pretty thick and may seem overwhelming, but it's a good reference type book. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1594851387/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Hiya Michnation.

Assuming you have the usual shoes, harness, belay device, etc...

You will need a rope, quickdraws, some cord/slings/webbing, and a handful of carabiners.

More importantly you should probably check out Freedom and Anchors.

These two books have taught generations of climbers how to climb. A huge part of climbing outside is being comfortable and confident in your own skills. My personal opinion is that you will become a better climber through a lot of time spent learning techniques and practicing them, than if you spend money on a couple guided days. But thats IMO.

This book is a good start.

But figure out first if you want to turn your fun hobby into something you have to work for.

I try to break up the training and the just have fun aspect of climbing.

I use 2-3 months before season to train. After that I go to the gym to hang out and just have fun.

I break my training up into three phases

1. Endurance (3-4 weeks):
   
   Up-down-ups, Laps
   
   
2. Power (3-4 weeks):
   
   Bouldering
   
   
3. Power endurance (2-3 weeks):
   
   4x4's
   

This book is crucial: https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

I’ve heard the John Long one is great as well.

Also, definitely get a copy of Freedom of the Hills.

The outdoor walls at Sandpoint and Marymoor are good starting places to practice lead. The style of climbing in Northbend is good for beginners as well. This book covers everything pretty well, it's worth reading through the rock sections at least once when learning.

Rather than claiming to know the answers to your personal problems, I'll point you to two resources that have helped me greatly:

• The Rock Warriors Way: This book deems it self as "Mental training for climbers", but it is so much more than that. As you mention, "climbing forces these sorts of lessons upon us all" and this book acknowledges that, walking you through the borderline spiritual journey of the author and providing great lessons for the reader
  
• 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes: This is a training book that avoids quantitive goals (like, 3 sets of X followed by a 4 minute break) and talks instead of a number of the physical/technique/psychological problems we all commonly face in improving as climbers. It opened my mind to new approaches to escaping self-carved ruts in my training.
  
  Hope these help.

How to top rope by Bob Gains is good if you are starting out.
http://www.amazon.com/Toproping-How-To-Climb-Series/dp/0762770325

He also has a book on anchors and setting other pro if you are interested in working on leading.
http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-How-Climb-Series/dp/0762782072/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_y

John long is also a great author as u/jdevver suggested.

You are talking about two different types of endurance here. Aerobic and Anaerobic endurance. 4x4's are targeted more towards Anaerobic endurance, while laps are more like aerobic endurance. While 4x4's are good, if you are wanting overall endurance I think you want to do laps.

Not sure of your climbing experience but the self-coached climber has a lot of good information in it. When I read it, the technique info did not teach me very much but it the mechanics and training suggestions were perfect. I highly suggest it.

Are you referring to lead climbing? Just because you are not on a toprope does not mean you are not on belay. The belayer is at the bottom, and feeds rope out as the climber goes higher instead of pulling slack in like a toprope belayer would. The climber places removable protection (called trad climbing) and clips the rope into that to arrest the fall. Or just clips directly into bolts (sport).
Meru (and El cap also) uses a technique called aid climbing, where removable gear is used to make progress instead of hands and feet. There is a belayer here also.
A good resource for this stuff is freedom of the hills. https://www.amazon.com/Mountaineering-Freedom-Hills-8th-Mountaineers/dp/1594851387. If you Intend to keep climbing, I would suggest picking g up a copy, it's like the textbook for climbing 101.

Grab this book Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide, its a great resource for learning how to build anchors.


Rope drag is generally a bad thing, even smooth surfaces will cause your rope to pick up grit and accelerate wear on your gear. Everyone should know how to properly set up an anchor, its easy once you know some things to avoid and get an idea of what you're looking to accomplish. It gets really interesting in the alpine when you're having to improvise points of protection and your general station set up! Like /u/cardina16 said, make sure you are ERNEST.

The Rock Warrior's Way describes a great technique for getting over a fear of lead falls that you can apply to this.

Basically, clip into an autobelay, Climb 5 feet up, and fall. Then climb 7 feet up and fall. Then climb 10 feet up and fall. etc etc.

It's all about building trust in the mechanical system. You don't trust it now because you're not used to it. Once you build up familiarity with the feeling of the system working perfectly as intended, you won't have that feat of the unknown when you're high up and feeling like you're gonna fall.

I would only go for weight reduction to start training one handed.
Use a harness slings and weights so you can add weight on the bigger holds till you are ready for the tinier!
Great side effect, you increase maximum power by adding weight instead of reducing! And it's safer according to the national climbing-doc of germany (Jan Hojer, Jule Wurm etc.)!

EDIT: sorry not the best reference here is the better one

I've observed these self-defeating behaviors from all kinds of people who climb a very wide variety of grades... notably an almost-5.12-climbing friend of mine. The frustration threshold at which a negative attitude emerges varies for different people, and can totally shut down anyone's progress.

Unfortunately, my experience has been that you can't help these people much. I don't know if there is a way to convince someone to keep climbing, improve and overcome... they have to want it for themselves. I think part of the motivation comes from confidence - a conviction that they could become really good if they kept trying, but a genuine form of that only comes from within.

If you push her to do specific exercises, she will likely have a negative reaction to it. So I'd say only be her coach if she specifically seeks out coaching. Maybe the best thing for you to do is have fun with this person and try to make climbing enjoyable to her. Sadly, no shortcuts. Essentially she will take steps to improve on her own when she wants to.

Check out arno ilgner's rock warrior's way, though it might not be that useful to an early beginner.

http://www.amazon.com/The-Rock-Warriors-Way-Training/dp/0974011215

You might want to try this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4rVY3sLQqA for a quick intro on lead climbing.

A double rope system uses two full length ropes, and you alternate clipping them into protection. This helps eliminate rope drag.

A twin rope system uses two full length ropes as well, but you clip both ropes into each piece of protection.

See here for info on rope systems: http://www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/howto/ropesystems.asp

You will almost always be using a double rope rappel on any of your local crags. Single rope rappels are more dangerous and are usually used to rap down from the top of a crag to clean a route, photograph, ascend, etc. With the single rope rappel method, you will not be able to retrieve your rope from the anchors unless you use a smaller cord as a pull cord, although that is not a reccomended technique.

As for climbing rescue, check out this book: http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Self-Rescue-Improvising-Mountaineers/dp/089886772X

hope my answers helped.

DEFINITELY practice crossing. Also, try keeping your hands on holds while moving your feet. Ex: Standing with all limbs on holds/chips/what have you. Move your left foot, and then your right. (crossing if an option). Only then can you move your hands. (i hope this makes some sense)

Also, try keeping a hip to the wall. This forces you to cross and do unfamiliar things.

edit: buy the self coached climber it has many tips that can help with questions like this.

If you're new, work on technique as opposed to fitness (yeah, fitness helps, but technique is more important initially).


Check this book out.


If you want to get into some next-level stuff, pick up Training for the New Alpinism by Steve House. It's alpinism-focused, but has good workouts. Or perhaps Conditioning for Climbers

Recommend: http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Self-Rescue-Improvising-Mountaineers/dp/089886772X as a good book for this stuff.

• Escaping belay - useful for fallen leader.
  
• Passing a knot on rappel - useful if you get a core shot and have to isolate it to get off a climb.
  
• Ascending a rope with friction hitches - Useful if you get a rope stuck on rappel and need to free it, or if you find that your ropes aren't long enough etc. Important to learn how to do this with friction hitches since you probably don't normally carry ascenders.
  
• Tandem Rappel - Fallen climber partner, dropped device
  
• How to rig a haul system - Fallen second, second can't pull a move
  
• Munter knot - useful as a belay knot if you drop a device.
  
• Butterfly knot - useful to isolate a core shot
  

r/climbing is mostly rock climbing oriented, you might be better off on r/mountaineering or r/alpinism.

Training for the New Alpinism and its authors' website.

In general, as others have said: get mileage in, ideally uphill carrying a pack. And get used to moving and camping on snow.

Edit to add: a good & popular tip for uphill mileage carrying a pack is to carry rocks or water that you can dump at the top to save your knees on the way down. Might be especially relevant if you're just starting out and overweight.

My recommendation: 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes

While not a book on technique, it will act as a great roadmap to improvement. It's short but full of tons of great info.

I've been reading this one recently. It's pretty helpful with a lot of techniques.

This one is great, too for just learning everything about the sport in general.

Guidebooks to the climber's local crags would be a great gift if they don't already have them.

If they already have those, then Climbing Anchors is definitely one every climber should read.

The Self-Coached Climber is one of those books that's often mentioned for that purpose. Definitely a great book with lots of good info.

I think taking the winter to prepare yourself is a great idea if you don't know of anyone who can take you, or don't want to spend the money on instruction (right now that is). For $30 and some shipping you can have almost all the book knowledge you need.

Read Climbing Anchors by John Long. This is a great way to start understanding climbing anchor theory and some of the broader details of materials and protection.

Read the AMGA's Single Pitch Instructor Manual. It has more info than you need to know, but the knots and anchor systems are extremely valuable.

seconding /u/traddad's comment/recommendations. Another good resource is John Long's anchor book -- the last chapter has some good examples for rigging top belays (and it's a good anchor resource in general)

Look mate, there's no arguing that lowering directly off fixed gear is just lazy and inconsiderate. Set up an anchor and play right.

I'm not sure if you have ever been out of the gym, but when you climb outside there is more at stake than just your own safety. You should try going outside, but please keep in mind etiquette as it is what will keep our routes sustained for years to come.

I would recommend reading this book. It will give you a good understanding as to how to properly set up anchors.

It even gets into placing your own pro, but you can skip over that if that's a little much for you.

TL;DR! Not reading before you jump into something may be one issue. Do you even read the disclaimers on your gear and the accompanying pamphlets? How about you try reading some books while you wait to reply and troll well-meaning people?

​

>" Like you can't take a beginner climbing until they've mastered 1000 random rigging techniques?"

​

Knowledge is what keeps people alive and vertical.

​

Reading is fundamental.

​

I think you should read all you can. Start reading here before you end up here.

​

Good day to you.

​

This is what it's really all about- having fun! And, geez y'll, this is literally the route featured on the cover of THE book for JTree climbing (https://www.amazon.com/Best-Climbs-Joshua-Tree-National/dp/0762770198). Bravo dude. Keep being cool and having fun.

read The Rock Warrior's Way. It's really important to work on your internal dialogue that runs in your head while you climb. Instead of think things like "don't fall," you need to be thinking only of your next move. The thing that has helped me a lot is warming up a lot on easier leads and focusing on doing every move really efficiently. This has helped me plan and execute moves on harder climbs without wasting movement and energy.

with that being said, getting over the fear of falling also requires that you do it. Keep at it and keep going!

2008 isnt dated. The sport hasnt changed much but I personally just got this book and love what I have read so far. And I have seen it recommended multiple times on here
http://www.amazon.com/Self-Coached-Climber-Movement-Training-Performance/dp/0811733394

How to Rock Climb! by John Long
http://www.amazon.com/How-Rock-Climb/dp/0762755342/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1420510588&sr=1-1&keywords=how+to+rock+climb

He also has a good book on anchors.

While a book is cool to get you excited about climbing, theres no better way to learn than to go to your local gym and learn. If you live in an area where "climbing is atcually a thing" it shouldnt be too hard to find someone willing to teach you a thing or two.

No problem! I had a some great friends who had a lot of patience with me, who were just as adventurous as me, and I spent a lot of time reading John Long's [Climbing Anchors] (http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-How-Climb-Series/dp/0762782072).

Just remember, good judgement is the result of having survived bad judgment.

I bought mountaineering freedom of the hills as everyone recommends, it's very comprehensive, so much so I end up using it as a reference.

One of my favorites is [Luebben's Rock Climbing Anchors] (http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062). I've used this one the most and to initially teach myself. Also have more experienced people look over your anchors.

People recommend John Long's Anchor book but I've never read it.

Remember to build and weight anchors ground level and place tons of gear on easy climbs when you're starting out.
I was always very redundant with gear and of course we practiced on low traffic climbs.

For me, I do see it as simple. But I see it because it's something you dedicate yourself to, aspire as a life goal. Yes it does cost money, and it takes a TON of sacrifice. But look at it this way, even if you never get to climb Everest, just by taking the alpine courses and learning the skills, you are opening yourself up to a whole new range of possibilities in your climbing. Learn everything you need to know first. If you ever get to that point where you are ready to tackle it than go for it. But have fun along the way.

Also, this is your bible: http://www.amazon.com/Mountaineering-Freedom-Hills-50th-Anniversary/dp/1594851387

Make friends at your gym and go out with them. Or hire a guide.

Also, read a lot of books. John Long's anchor book is a great start.

I don't climb nearly as hard as you do but when I went through a similar thing I went to the gym a few times and made it a point not to TR anything. I only lead so as I warmed up and then climbed harder I was inevitably falling. After a few trips I felt really confident on my leads. I've never read this book but maybe it would help you if you haven't read it either http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Warriors-Way-Training-Climbers/dp/0974011215/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1323089648&sr=1-1

Look at The Complete Guide to Rope Techniques 2nd edition by Nigel Shepherd. 360 pages, 4.4 x 1 x 6.8 inches

http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Rope-Techniques-Comprehensive/dp/0762746785/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1449968363&sr=1-1&keywords=nigel+shepherd

The AMGA Single Pitch Manual is a bit larger
http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Single-Pitch-Manual/dp/0762790040/ref=sr_1_16?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1449968433&sr=1-16&keywords=rock+climbing

Rescue techniques are a different story. Assuming you mean self-rescue and not part of a professional high angle rescue team, look at Dave Fasulo's book:
http://www.amazon.com/Self-Rescue-How-Climb-David-Fasulo/dp/0762755334/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1449968800&sr=1-1&keywords=self+rescue

I broke my collarbone 2 years ago. It gave me new appreciation for being able-bodied. One of the first things I did with this new appreciation was try rock climbing. Life has a strange way of turning that frown upside down. Oh and "9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes" is a nice easy read to motivate you upon recovery.

get a safe and experienced friend to show you how and check your setup

he/she will show you all the gear youll need

and get "rock climbing anchors" by craig luebben ... it cost the same as a locking biner ...

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

;)

If you haven't heard of it yet, I think you'd really enjoy the rock warrior's way. It's a wonderful book about how to focus and engage with fear in a methodical way. There's a follow-up of practical exercises in Espresso Lessons. Both these books put the whole thought process into the clearest words I've ever read or heard.

there aren't any stores in freedom of the hills, i'm not sure what you are referring to. nor is it expensive, in the grand scheme of climbing gear.

http://www.amazon.ca/Mountaineering-Freedom-Of-Hills-Anniversary/dp/1594851387

Awesome, I'll give it a whirl!

So far my knowledge comes solely from Climbing Anchors and How to Rock Climb, but I am definitely planning on taking a course!

Take a class from a certified mountain guide.

No, seriously. Take a class.

Failing that, find a partner who has 1) many many years of mountain experience. Offer to belay them anywhere and everywhere. Learn from them. 2) REALLY has many years of experience. There are quite a few folks who present themselves as experts but know fuck-all - it's terrifying.

Read read read and practice practice practice. Some good books are:

Moutaineering: Freedom of the Hills

How to Rock Climb! - John Long

Climbing Anchors - John Long

More Climbing Anchors - John Long

Training for Climbing - Eric Horst

Climbing Self Rescue - Tyson and Loomis


It is very important to realize that these skills should be second nature to you. When you are tired, cold, or frightened you should not be trying to remember how to rig a clove hitch on an equalette or set up a 3-to-1 to haul your partner over the crux of the 2nd pitch, in the dark. Buy gear, watch videos, read books and practice at home. Be confident without being over-confident.

Mountaineering (in all its forms) is a long slow progression of skill and judgement.

Vogel's Book is very comprehensive and has most routes. But if you're not going to spend weeks there, the best climbs book is really great for finding the classics.

I've always used O'keeffe's Working Hands, and I would definitely recommend giving it a try.

I actually use this every once in a while when my hands are really rekt

http://www.amazon.com/OKeeffes-Working-Hands-Cream-3-4/dp/B00121UVU0

Works pretty well. Hands will feel a bit "oily" until it sets in but after that feels good. Also doesn't have a smell.

Is there a comprehensive guide? Yes there is and it's quite good!
https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

I've also found this article to be a good starting point:
http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/articles/pdfs/EarnestAnchors3.pdf


Pictures would help understand your situations but it sounds like you guys weren't actually building anchors but just running the rope through the rings at the top. Which is:

1. A total pain for closed rings
   
2. Frowned upon in most crags. The rings usually meant for a rappel or lower of the lead climber but not a group of people top roping. It can wear them out faster when you do this. Check with a local on ethics here.
   
   Based on your description it seems like you should have been able to build a simple 2 bolt equalized anchor with cord and four lockers (2x bolts, 2x for the rope).
   
   EDIT: frowned upon in MOST crags
   
   EDIT2: Absiel/Rappelling is apparently only a US Thing so stick to the lower off. The more you know

First off don't fall on 5.0. The run outs are there because the climbing is easy and anyone on the route should be competent enough not to fall.

That said, depending on the severity of the fall, the distance from the ground/top and the condition of the climber/belayer there are a few options.

• The climber could jug the line with hitches then anchor into the arch and climb after they are on belay again.
  
  
• The belayer could lower the fallen climber to the ground if the rope will reach.
  
  
• The belayer could tie off the device, escape the belay and rescue the climber with 3:1s or simply with a line for the fallen climber to rap on.
  
  Those are just some go to options but everything depends on the situation at hand. Also, don't take advice from anyone online, read this instead:
  https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Self-Rescue-Improvising-Mountaineers/dp/089886772X

I haven't climbed any big walls, but I have heard Chris McNamara's big wall book is considered the bible for big wall climbing, especially in Yosemite. https://www.amazon.ca/How-Wall-Climb-Chris-McNamara/dp/0983322511.

My understanding is that climbing el cap or half dome is far less about your climbing ability, and more about your systems ability, efficiency, and ability to suffer.

I picked up a copy of The Self Coached Climber and believe it is a great learning resource for the newer climber.

It is a little bit older, and I wouldn't say I learned anything ground breaking, but it gets you to think about technique in different ways and gives you some different drills to help you practice your fundamentals.

I don't set but I work in a gym and have heard a number of setters (both our setters and other gyms) recommend this book. I haven't read it so hopefully someone can chime in on if it is worth a read or not.

Fundamentals of Routesetting by Louie Anderson

Climbing Anchors by John Long is a good concise reference for, well, climbing anchors.

Specifically it covers stuff like what to avoid when placing nuts and cams, what to look for in natural protection, warning signs for bad bolts, and the pros and cons of the various rigging systems. It's pretty cheap too so I think it definitely has a place on your shelf.

https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Single-Pitch-Manual/dp/0762790040/

You want non-obvious tricks? If you are looking for some more advanced interesting things you can do with a GriGri, this wonderful book is on sale right now. For instance, you can easily rig up a 3:1 haul system if belaying from above, or ascend from below to assist a panicked climber who won’t lower off a ledge on TR.

This book is the AMGA single pitch instructors manual. I’m not a guide, but I’ve found it really useful in filling in some of the gaps in my climbing knowledge.

For specifics, definitely pick up a copy of Climbing Anchors. Nice explanations, illustrations, and examples. It's a must-have.

The Rock Warrior's Way was pretty mind blowing. It's not a book about a climbing adventure, it's more of a tool to conquer the mental side of climbing.

This man (or woman) speaks truth. Read it cover to cover. Pretty much all of us (who climb outside regularly) have.

Also, this is the newest edition.

I can not recommend this mans wisdom enough, every vid/vlog he puts out is excellent, and his books are even better. If you havent checked out "9/10 climbers make the same mistakes" ( https://www.amazon.com/Out-Climbers-Make-Same-Mistakes/dp/095642810X ) you are definitely missing out.

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Give him the support he deserves fellas!

That's enough time for an actual training cycle if you want to go overboard and get in great shape.

Check out Training for the New Alpinism for the most recent outline of modern approach and method.

Self coached climber for actual climbing and training technique. Craig Leubben's [Rock Climbing Anchors] (http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062) and Freedom of the Hills for everything else.

Self-Coached Climber is great

Self coached climber is great. Has tons of movement exercises to work on your technique.

http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Self-Rescue-Improvising-Mountaineers/dp/089886772X/ref=pd_bxgy_14_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1XBKDMNTBPXDRR0GMPJZ

This is a great book

Get the new version of Louie Anderson's book. You can also get it from him directly (preferable) by contacting him on FB. I have all of my new (and experienced) setters read it.

also, join the Routesetters Anonymous group on FB. Lots of good content there.

O'Keefe's working hands. They sell it at home depot as well :)

http://www.amazon.com/OKeeffes-Working-Hands-Cream-3-4/dp/B00121UVU0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372132354&sr=8-1&keywords=working+hands&tag=s601000020-20

I don't know if you're going to find much on training mental aspects of climbing in a bouldering setting. For most people, fear of falling and trusting gear are the largest mental barriers. The gear side we can completely ignore, because there's essentially no gear you need to trust. The falling side is the same as falling with ropes--take falls to train falls. Start small, gradually get bigger. On the other hand, it seems like most people are far more comfortable taking falls bouldering than they are leading, so if mentality on the sharp end is your ultimate goal, you just need to tie in and take falls.

The Rock Warrior's Way and 9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes are both great books for climbing mentality, but again, the focus will be on ropes, not bouldering.

I recommend this:
(http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Edition-Climb-Series/dp/0762723262)
It goes a long way toward explaining what makes a good anchor, what makes a bad anchor, and how to tell the difference.

As for variations, you could extend both slings to their full length and connect them with two biners (gates opposite and opposed). You would get nearly the same overall length without the possibility of a sudden extension if one bolt pulls.
If you're just using it for top roping, just remember that you stand a far greater chance of dying in a wreck on the way to Stoney Point than you do of dying from any of those slings breaking.

Find someone with experience to show you how to do it. There are subtle mistakes that can be made setting up an anchor - cross-loading biners, chafing webbing, equalization issues, directional issues, etc.

A good book by a great writer and a Yosemite Stonemaster is Climbing Anchors by John Long

http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-2nd-How-Climb/dp/0762723262/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1269897510&sr=8-1

But seriously, you only get one life. Find someone with experience to "show you the ropes".

I read most of "The Self Coached Climber" and found it very informative.

edit: Just saw it was already recommended. Anyway still a good choice.

This is an excellent book for learning to set TR anchors.

OP if you haven't already, I highly suggest reading climbing anchors falcon guide https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Climb-John-Long/dp/0762782072, if you're into gear and the knots, ect, its a fantastic read. i've read it cover to cover twice.

You can try The Rock Warrior's Way: Mental Training for Climbers by Arno Ilgner. (Here's the Amazon page). The instructors at my gym recommended it and my wife and I found it to be a helpful read to face these situations.

Freedom of the Hills is pretty much the textbook for outdoor climbing!

Convince them to buy this book. Read it. Make others read it. Find people that are passionate about the wall.

the self coached climber was a book I read that really helped me with understanding the fundamentals. Technique is one thing, but basics like knowing how to grip different types of holds isnt always on youtube videos.

Buy this book, it might save you from having some really rough "learning" (near death) experiences:

http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-2nd-How-Climb/dp/0762723262

This book got me pretty far along: http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Mastering-Mountaineers-Outdoor/dp/0898867436

Check out Climbing Anchors by Craig Luebben: http://www.amazon.ca/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Guide/dp/1594850062

Also, try and go with an experienced friend or a guide to check your anchor.

Regarding TR anchors: read Anchors in EARNEST and John Long's Climbing Anchors. On top of the reading, please seek instructions from an experienced person and have them look over your work for the first few times. (If I were in Jersey, I'd take you up on the offer for teaching, climbing, and boozing.)

//EDIT: Corrected link format.

http://www.amazon.com/Understand-Injuries-Overuse-Syndroms-Climbing/dp/3928026208

:)

http://www.amazon.com/Self-Coached-Climber-Movement-Training-Performance/dp/0811733394


there's lots of good info and technique in there. "quiet feet"

Good book here - http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1371828968&sr=1-1&keywords=anchors

"9 Out of 10 Climbers Make The Same Mistakes" by Dave MacLeod

EDIT: Please don't free solo. Always climb with gear, and someone who knows what they are doing. Bouldering however, with a crash pad may interest you, but if you are climbing large walls please use a rope and climb with experienced individuals.

This is a decent book for learning about the basic aspects of things: https://www.amazon.com/dp/0898867436/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_WvWSAb8ADH6WE

More importantly, you should get to your nearest climbing gym, rent some gear, and start climbing.

Pick up a copy of:

The Self Coached Climber
9 out of 10 climbers
The Rock Climbers Training Manual

And join us over at /r/climbharder.

If you have a few dollars I recommend The Self-Coached Climber

I'd recommend checking out this book: https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Warriors-Way-Training-Climbers/dp/0974011215

I think you will have a difficult time finding a book that is extensive and detailed while also being small and lightweight.

That said, Freedom of the Hills is the gold standard. It is not small/lightweight but it is certainly detailed and extensive.

if you haven't found it already, Chris McNamara's How to Big Wall Climb is a seriously good resource for your objective.

start reading though these resources a dozen times:

1 multipitchclimbing.com

2 anchors intro: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SkCojauHto

3 WC crack school: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W99gN54wLQ&list=PLIC0Jb1OCf4cTyLvpiGN9KNZGfqCpHB4D


Then get some DMM alloy offset nuts 7-11 and go around the base of the crag practicing placements.

long's book is good too: https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Climb-John-Long/dp/0762782072

Pick up a copy of C Mac's How to Big Wall Climb. Practice plenty of trad climbing and be prepared to shell out hundreds for new sets of cams, biners, and draws.

For a fine focus on technique: Self-Coached Climber

The pain sounds a bit like an inflammation of a tendon sheath (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tenosynovitis) which I had once, though the popping noise is rather worrying. It hints to a rupture like others said already. The pain should also radiate to the injured finger and the to your forearm.

Go see a doc again and get an ultrasonic done, xray wont show anything if the soft parts of your hands are injured. A rupture should be clearly visible I think.

If you can't find a doc that can help you I can recommend this book: http://www.amazon.com/Understand-Injuries-Overuse-Syndroms-Climbing/dp/3928026208/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416647554&sr=8-1&keywords=one+move+too+many

The author is working in the Frankenjura and is specialized on climbers injuries, it's a really good book to diagnose any of those. A new version of it was published in German earlier this year, I dont know how fast the translation process is but if you can find a more recent one than 2003 then get that one I guess.

Non climber here, is it an advantage to have rough hands for climbing? If not there's a wonderful product out there, O'Keeffee's Working Hands. My husband is a welder and his hands are so dry they bleed sometimes. This item works wonders.

http://www.amazon.com/OKeeffes-Working-Hands-Cream-3-4/dp/B00121UVU0

• How to Climb Series: Climbing Anchors by John Long
  
  
• Climbing Anchors, 2nd by John Long and Bob Gaines
  
  edit: formatting