(Part 2) Top products from r/climbing

I mentioned this to someone else regarding warming up outside, but I use it inside too. These are awesome for warming up forearms/shoulders quickly. I wouldn't statically stretch until you're already pretty warm, other than some dynamic (arm swingy) type stretches. You should check out my friend's site Climbing Nutrition he's super knowledgable and has zero preconceptions about nutrition (a very rare thing for people here in Colorado). Look at the diet information and supplement guide, there's a lot of good stuff there. For core workouts Mark Anderson's routine is a pretty good set of exercises, all of which you can make harder or easier to fit your needs. Cross training is always good just for general fitness and to maintain a healthy weight (if that's something holding you back) but climbing is a very specialized sport, so really climbing is the best training.

There are tons of guidebooks for Josh. Depends on what you want though as some are more just a list of climbs without much commentary.(even gear!) Some are more of a best of which I would recommend. I have the "trad guide to josh" which has 60 climbs from 5.5 to 5.9 that the author recommends. It's good but I'd probably get this one instead; in fact I just picked it up.

Tahquitz only has one really

malibu creek has sport climbing the santa monicas is ok. but nowhere near the quality of the color pictures and descriptions of the josh ones.

hidden treasures east covers holcomb valley. You can get a lot of info from the mountain project page too.

Red rock is way out of the way but tons of amazing climbing. this is really the defacto guidebook. I am hesitant to say that I have seen a better guidebook anywhere.

There is some hard sport at the riverside quarry(though some really easy stuff too but not a moderate destination crag by any stretch of the mind). You can get the second edition of louie's guide book directly from him. Full color and very good.

There are many variations, but you need to hang on something. Figure out a way, depending on what your living arrangements are. You can attach a pull up bar to a doorframe. You can hang from the door frame itself. You can find a tree or monkey bars or ledge of some kind outside.

Once you've found something to hang on, it'd be best to attach something to it. Hangboards, rock rings, pull up bar, homemade contraption. The device is not important, but preferably you can grip it in different ways. Open hand, sloper, two finger, crimp, side pull, etc.

Step three is to do pull ups, hangs, lock offs, and levers. Google hangboard workout and you'll find something. Use a chair if you need to reduce your weight, wear a backpack to increase it. Work out 3 times a week or so.

All the other fitness stuff you can do is great, but won't help your climbing as much as this. You have to hang, and you have to pull. This will keep in you decent shape.

Some links:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Training_and_Technique/The_Making_of_a_Rockprodigy__258.html

http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Total-Upper-Body-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K
The above can be modified to make it more climber friendly. You can make your own one of these: http://www.blankslateclimbing.com/shop/item/blank-slate/
Or you could hang some rock rings.

I'm a rehab based Chiropractor and treating climbers is a large part of my practice. A few years ago I was looking for something similar as I know there are seminars/certifications for golf, running, lifting etc - but couldn't find anything solid for climbers. My best advice is pick up some climbing injury books and start there. I listed the books I own below in order of my preference. I second u/wristrule's recommendation of make it or break it and checking out Training Beta. They have PTs/Chiros/Trainers/Coaches talk about injuries and prevention. Follow those people and their professional work as they all have blogs, books, videos etc.

As far as research goes, there is actually a decent body of evidence but sample sizes of the studies tend to be small. The best collection of climbing research in one place is probably The Beta Angel Project https://beta-angel.com/research/research-inventory It is sorted into categories which is a nice touch. Also you can pubmed search 'rock climbing' and there are a bunch of studies there.

Here are the books I own and recommend:

https://www.amazon.com/Make-Break-Climbing-Injuries-Dictate/dp/0956428134

https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Injuries-Solved-Lisa-Erikson/dp/0692296646/ref=sr_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1535818900&sr=1-5&keywords=rock+climbing+injuries

https://www.amazon.com/Climb-Injury-Free-Dr-Jared-Vagy/dp/0692831894/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1535818900&sr=1-2&keywords=rock+climbing+injuries

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Theres a few more books out but I haven't checked them out just yet.

Hope this helps you help other climbers!

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If you look at many of the best climbers in the world (Daniel Woods, Chris Sharma, Paul Robinson, etc) they are all pretty skinny with powerful hands, arms, shoulders and abs. Being a good climber is all about reducing your body weight while strengthening specific muscle groups that help your climbing.

Weightlifting for climbing should focus on the benefit you want to get. You should go buy a book like this one to learn what you need to do to condition yourself for climbing.

get yourself one of these if you can:
http://www.amazon.com/LAPIS-LIB611090-Lapis-Boars-Brush/dp/B001OPJJPW

I've tried different brushes but the boars hair on the lapis brush works a treat. or if you have another boars hair brush it may work as well. I find it picks up chalk and fine particles much better than nylon and gets stuff out of the texture of grips better.

TO answer your quesiton though, just use a soft or moderate toothbrush -- they are relatively soft and wont harm the hold.

Miramontes is great. http://www.amazon.com/Joshua-Tree-Climbs-Robert-Miramontes/dp/0982615442 It's pretty comprehensive. Nice color pictures. A good amount of "fluff/culture/history" to keep you busy on the car ride as well.

Smith has some of the top sport climbing in the country! If you go during the summer, just make sure to bring your own water. If you're willing to do some easy hiking, you can always find stuff in the shade. There is also a nice river that runs through the park if you need to take a quick dip to cool off. I highly recommend it!


And if you decide to go, make sure to purchase this book!

1. A lot of places you'll want more draws than 12. Normally I carry 2-4 alpine draws which are great for use under roofs and such. It's nice to have slings anyway, for backing up your PAS before going off belay or anchoring to a tree at a sketchy belay ledge, or whatever.
   
2. For rappelling autoblocks or emergency ascending, sterling's hollow autoblock loops are the best thing ever. I use the shorter 13.5 inch version.
   
3. You'll likely want a stick clip. Get the superclip, not the trango one.
   
4. I prefer a tarp to a bag. Personal thing, but it's nice to be able to strap it to any pack and easier to keep the rope off the ground while belaying. Trango's is good. Otherwise, for a bag you might as well use the $2 ikea one.
   
5. Helmets. Suck it up. Newbies are usually on routes with more flipping/headbanging/rockfall potential than on steep overhanging 12's.

smith is unique. lots of runouts to anchors.

this is the best book on smith, imo

if your gym has a completely vertical wall with tiny crimps it'll be good smith practice.

it'll be packed if it's nice at all. 5 gallon buckets will have 3 busloads of kids with a line down the trail, 9 gallons is worth the wait though.

lemme know if you need any portland food advice!

What are you trying to get out of your training? Overall, I've found this book very helpful in getting better at climbing. But you might be more interested in other Horst books, like Conditioning for Climbing depending on what your goals and/or focus is.

If you're new, work on technique as opposed to fitness (yeah, fitness helps, but technique is more important initially).


Check this book out.


If you want to get into some next-level stuff, pick up Training for the New Alpinism by Steve House. It's alpinism-focused, but has good workouts. Or perhaps Conditioning for Climbers

Let me see if I can put this more eloquently than @pliers below. Go and buy Neil Gresham's "Climbing Masterclass: Improve your climbing" DVDs 1 & 2. Don't torrent them, they're not wildly expensive, and the guy deserves to get paid for the quality of instruction he puts out there. You won't regret the purchase.

I'd recommend Craig Connally's "The Mountaineering Handbook" in addition to Freedom of the Hills. Neither book is perfect - compare, contrast, ask around your climbing buddies...

This is what it's really all about- having fun! And, geez y'll, this is literally the route featured on the cover of THE book for JTree climbing (https://www.amazon.com/Best-Climbs-Joshua-Tree-National/dp/0762770198). Bravo dude. Keep being cool and having fun.

For a book, any local guidebook would be great. Even if they don't get outdoors too much yet it would at least be something to get them psyched to get out. I remember winning a Rocktown guidebook (not that that is really local for Florida) at a comp at my university climbing tower before ever climbing outdoors and it got me stoked and I planned a trip as soon as I could.

Also get them some robot buttholes!

https://www.amazon.com/Goda-Acupressure-Massage-Rings-Set/dp/B00G2G22IO

For mountaineering a good start would be to pick up a used copy of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. Here's a link to the current 9th edition. I have the 7th edition from when I started climbing. Used copies of the 7th are going for under $2.

This book has a great chapter on nutrition. Since reading that I take mostly GU gels and gummies, some with caffeine, which gives a nice boost before a difficult pitch. They are much lighter on the stomach than cliff bars and don't require as much water to digest. I can go about 8-10hrs on those before requiring real food.

Try these.

https://www.amazon.com/Goda-Acupressure-Massage-Rings-Chart/dp/B00G2G22IO/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1467038345&sr=8-1&keywords=acupressure+rings

I have been using them for awhile now and find that they help quite a bit. They increase blood flow to my fingers. Very useful when my fingers are tight in the morning after a hard session the night before.

I also jammed my pinky playing basketball the other day and low and behold.. the rings have been working wonders. The swelling is almost gone within 2 days.

[These are great too!](Goda Acupressure Massage Rings (Set of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G2G22IO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_I.lPAbC5Y2XH8)

You can take them anywhere and they feel great! There’s are the ones I use but there are cheaper options on amazon

Vogel's Book is very comprehensive and has most routes. But if you're not going to spend weeks there, the best climbs book is really great for finding the classics.

I don't set but I work in a gym and have heard a number of setters (both our setters and other gyms) recommend this book. I haven't read it so hopefully someone can chime in on if it is worth a read or not.

Fundamentals of Routesetting by Louie Anderson

One thing I recommend as a foundation is getting the Climbing Injury Free book by Dr. Jared Vagy DPT. He is a climber and works with top athletes across the board.

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Most of the book is injury exercises when you're already injured, but the injury prehab exercises he teaches has helped me prevent a lot of injuries. He also shows a Muscle Activiation/Dynamic Warm up that works really well in the book as well. It has helped me to climb better.

C denotes a style of aid climbing know as "clean aid". Basically it means that you can ascend the route without a hammer (i.e. you're not going to need pitons, bashies, etc.). In fact, a lot of routes, like the one your asking about, is technically C0. Seriously though, two books that are worth the time for any aspiring aid climber:

Freedom of the Hills

Big Walls

sterling hollow block

Made from aramid so it doesn't heat up or melt when you rap with it. Rectangular so you get more friction from fewer raps w/ an auto lock.

chain reactor

Personal anchors are cool. This is my favorite because it's nylon so shock loading it doesn't generate as much force.

Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills https://www.amazon.com/dp/1680510045/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_77PlDbB369K90

Trad Climber's Bible (How To Climb Series) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0762783729/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U8PlDbW6VBDK9

https://coloradomountainschool.com/product/multi-pitch-rock-climbing/

https://www.cmc.org/Classes/CMCClassesandSchools.aspx

https://denvermountainguiding.com/rock-climbing

Get the new version of Louie Anderson's book. You can also get it from him directly (preferable) by contacting him on FB. I have all of my new (and experienced) setters read it.

also, join the Routesetters Anonymous group on FB. Lots of good content there.

Buy this in the green color. I had issues for a while and since getting this, they are all gone. I have a few buddies who have had the same results. The exercise is super simple and not strenuous. Buy it.

Honestly, I just purchased a pound of magnesium carbonate on amazon. I haven't heard of a difference in chalk worth the pricepoint yet - though I'm always open to evidence proving otherwise.

>Source?

pp. 136-140 of The Mountaineering Handbook. Also, a video of the figure eight rolling over itself when cross (ring) loaded.


>Inches?

Try a few feet, and I could say more as to why, but it has to do with alpinism and the whole tying in when you are doing things not most people do.

>that's just familiarity with the knot.

Yep, and that is the whole point.

Sterling hollow block FTW.

I use the Theraband Flexbar. There are multiple colors, each representing a different resistance level, but the premise is basically that you’re loading the muscle while releasing, as opposed to how it’s loaded while you climb. Highly recommend it, and it works for both golfers and tennis elbow.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KGOMBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aBgRAbH12F7EW

> any significant shift or unweighting the rope will cause the autoblock to loosen, where as the prusik will stay put and tight.

Totally and completely incorrect, provided you're using the right material to make your autoblock:

https://www.amazon.com/Sterling-Rope-6-8mm-Hollow-13-5-Inch/dp/B0051NARHM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510766125&sr=8-1&keywords=hollow%2Bblock&th=1&psc=1

Do yourself a favor and go pick one up. It'll hold even if it's wrapped around a PVC pipe.

Prussiks can get jammed to the point of needing a knife to cut them off, which can be dangerous in some situations. Autoblocks with the right materials are a much better option for backing up a rappel.

(That being said, never trust your life to one friction knot. As one comment below me noted, leg wraps are a good backup.)

Convince them to buy this book. Read it. Make others read it. Find people that are passionate about the wall.

Ice Cream Parlour is pretty fun. It's in the shade all morning, too. Hot Karl Sunday was my favourite route there.


Wall Street is the other obvious spot. High first bolts on a lot.


I used this guide book when I was down there, but there's enough online that you probably don't need it.

I'm nervous about your door mounting system. Something like this is what most people use and seems safer: http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Total-Upper-Body-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=sr_1_1?s=exercise-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1368204664&sr=1-1

Buy this book: https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbers-Training-Manual/dp/0989515613/

It's very good and thorough.

I really like the sterling hollow block for use as a third hand or prusik. I use the 13.5 inch.

https://www.amazon.com/Sterling-Rope-6-8mm-Hollow-Block/dp/B01253J7LM

Just buy a Superclip and borrow/buy a painter's pole from Home Depot. Cheap and easy.

it's a common climbing injury, my boyfriend gets it frequently. he bought a flex bar which helps ease the pain. it's something that doesn't go away easily, so rest is the best remedy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KGOMBC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was running into this same issue about a month ago, purchased this and have been using it daily and it's been doing wonders. Feeling full strength in my left arm that prior had been battling carpal tunnel and climber's elbow for months.

Pick up a copy of:

The Self Coached Climber
9 out of 10 climbers
The Rock Climbers Training Manual

And join us over at /r/climbharder.

Buy gymnast chalk and buy a decent chalk bag from a site like Backcountry using cashback deals from ActiveJunky.

Looks like it's the Superclip http://www.amazon.com/Superclip/dp/B00YW5UOLE

Does no one here use a brush?? Get them a good brush to keep around. http://www.amazon.com/LAPIS-LIB611090-Lapis-Boars-Brush/dp/B001OPJJPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1371071563&sr=1-1&keywords=lapis+brush

I got one of these from when I got tendonitis in the past due to crappy pull up form and haven't touched it since I rehabbed my tendonitis. Would using this to train my extensors be be just as beneficial? I feel like that's the only thing I don't train on a regular basis since I can't really see a regular application of that muscle.

It's pretty common. I have seen multiple people with a box of chalk blocks in their trunk. Here you get 8 blocks of chalk for about $9.

Edit: Found more links $90 bucket, 10,20,30 lbs of chalk,more

Get a pullup bar for one of your doorframes so you have something to do pullups on and then girth hitch these to the bar when you want to use them.

this is the smith bible.

> sport climbing setup

Stick clip

https://www.amazon.com/Superclip/dp/B00YW5UOLE

I bought the hangboard via craigslist, so I have no idea where you could get the hangboard itself. Everything else though you can get through Ace Hardware (or Lowes etc.) besides one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=sr_1_1?s=exercise-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1408256963&sr=1-1

For books I'm looking at:

Best Climbs Moab

Classic Desert Climbs

I am thinking of this guide book for our short time there? http://www.amazon.com/Best-Climbs-Joshua-Tree-National/dp/0762770198/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383061620&sr=8-1&keywords=joshua+tree+climbing

Also have you checked out Fundamentals of Routesetting ? I don't personally have setting experience, but this book is required reading for the setters at the gym I go to

Check this book out: https://www.amazon.com/Building-Your-Own-Climbing-Wall/dp/0762780231

It has so much good info.

https://www.amazon.com/Building-Your-Own-Climbing-Wall/dp/0762780231

google "school board" by moon climbing.

look on MP.com and here.

heck, there are books at MEC that detail how to do it.

http://www.amazon.ca/Building-Your-Own-Climbing-Wall/dp/0762780231/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406652766&sr=8-1&keywords=build+climbing+wall

Every climber has their own set of self care exercises to manage imbalance and muscle pain.

Mine is pushups (on gymnastics rings set at floor level), yoga (lots of sun salutations downward dog/upward dog which involve pushing at different angles) and kettlebell shoulder presses. I also use a rolflex, flex bar and a lacrosse ball to massage shoulder muscles.

You'll figure out what works for you. And take rest days!

They're right, though. "Dedicated" is relative - someone who is already able to climb at least one v3/4 in a session, could be climbing v8 within 2~ years if they have a consistent plan and are doing something to train 3-4 days a week. In reality, you can do SOMETHING 7 days a week if you know how to plan it. There's no reason you can't take 20 minutes and do pushups, crunches and shoulder exercises on your off days for injury prevention maintenance if getting to v8 is important to you.

Even just doing ONE thing can make a big difference. I went from working 5.11b to flashing 5.11d (D!) outside just by adding regular crunches to my week.

Check out the books, The Rock Climbers Training Manual and Climb Injury-Free.

High single digit bouldering and hard 5.12 climbing is much more accessible than people realize. The hardest part is being consistent enough to develop quality technique and body awareness. Though once you get in the mindset of trying different beta, even if you think you've "got it" and going back to easier problems to see if you can figure out even more efficient ways to do them than you've used before.

This is what you want. It's genuinely miraculous compared to anything else I've tried (though the 6mm sewn sterling isn't awful). Super smooth when rappelling but it grabs really, really hard when you let go. I use the 13.5 inch one and it's just right.

10 months in... 5.12c... 2 finger pockets... this sounds like a recipe for disaster. Your fingers aren't there yet, even though you might be.

Otherwise, https://www.amazon.com/Goda-Acupressure-Massage-Rings-Set/dp/B00G2G22IO