(Part 2) Top products from r/composting

The Bin

• I like the design: simple, low-cost, effective.
  
• Add a bar of some kind on the top; maybe rip a length of scrap board and place one in each cut notch. This will add stability to the top panels.
  
• Don't let this bin get to high. You have no way to remove side panels and turning the pile in the bin will be difficult if it gets too high.
  
  Leaves
  
  
• If you read a recent post in the past few days, I mentioned the leaf mulcher. I use this one. Breaking them in small bits increases surface area and allows bacteria easier access to the inside of the leaf (some leaves have a waxy outer coating that slows the composting process.)
  
  Manure
  
  
• Manure is pretty close to perfect in terms of composting. With a C:N ratio of about 27 it will do pretty well on it's own. the problem with Manure is that it tends to stink because no air can get to the center of a manure pile. Without air, anaerobes take over and make bad smells.
  
  Composting it All
  
  
• Here's where we get a little nasty: All the manure you have needs to be broken up into smaller pieces; whether you want to do it by hand or with a tool is up to you.
  
  
• It's best to wait until you can make a pile that is close to a cubic yard (3x3x3 ft)
  
  
• use a ratio of 1:1 (by volume) of manure to dry leaves (unshredded.) this tends to be about a ratio of 15:1 (by weight) Most people don't weigh their compost, so backyard DIYers use a volume estimation. If you have 1 cuft of manure, then use 1 cu ft of dry leaves (unshredded.) This will give you a ratio of pretty damn close to 30:1.
  
  
• Layer the manure and leaves, spraying the layers as you go with the hose (not to wet, though!)
  
  
• when your pile is done, the process begins! Your pile temp will spike within 24 hours. Then it will maintain for a few days and steadily decrease. There are a few methods to be employed:
  
  

1. The lazy method: Simply do nothing. It will do everything on it's own but the process will take a long time and the end product will be sloppy and coarse.
   
   
2. The "typical" method: When the temperature drops to 120F, turn the pile -inside out, outside in. Continue this until the temperature no longer gets above 120. Then turn and mix the pile into a final bin to "cure" for about 2 months. For best results, sift the final product through 1/4" screen. Add this material to your soil.
   
   
3. Hot method: Most people don't have enough starting material to make this really feasible. If you have a good strong source for horse manure and a lot of straw, you could do this easily. It takes about 3 weeks to make goo compost with this method. I provided a link below, but the process it layer into pile, let sit for 4 days, then turn every second day for 2 weeks.
   
   Most people use the typical method in a 3-bin system: bin 1 = active pile, bin 2 = turned pile, bin 3 = curing pile. I employ this method. Once I get my new 3-bin setup completed, I will be posting pictures of compost at different stages. IN the meantime, here is a picture of potting soil components I use: Left to right: dolomitic lime, perlite, compost (the stuff I make), peat moss.
   
   For added fun, use the compost going into the curing pile as bedding for worm bins. It is rich with food for them (you can add more, of course) and they will pass all of it through them. The end result is a nice, black, humus. I hope to employ a worm bin soon; it's on my list.
   
   This calculator can help with ratios
   
   Get a compost thermometer to help monitor the temperature
   
   This site has a good description for hot composting and a list of ratios

I think you're set on supplies. I never used the coir. I just added shredded newspaper and the stuff the worms were shipped in.

Small chunks are fine. I'll give them larger chunks and they handle them. They really don't eat much. Consult on-line, but I think you feed a lb of worms only a half a lb of food a day. I NEVER have them eat that much. I usually have far more scraps than the worms can eat. You can freeze the scraps and when thawed, they're soft and easier for them to consume. Blending is fine, but not necessary. Really, just putting the entire peel and cores is fine.

I feed the worms on one side of the bin for a few days so I can harvest the opposite side. Not all of them will move, so I pick out the worms and put them back into the bin. They aren't all that bothered.

I think those worm contraptions are more efficient at separating worms, but I've never owned one. I have a small rubbermaid tote with holes.

Starting the bin is kind of tricky because it needs to have the right moisture level. I wouldn't buy a meter. Instead, I'd save it and spend money on a worm house later. Visually inspecting the bin is really all you need to monitor moisture. Also note that some veggie/fruit scraps can quickly add moisture to the bin. They love watermelon rind, but it will add a lot of moisture so use sparingly unless the bin is too dry.

They may try to climb out when the bin isn't the right moisture level, temperature or when the bin is new. Don't fret.

Yeah I would also say to stop adding. A month is a good amount of time. Keep the pile going on standard operating procedure. If you really want to turn it every three days that may help. It also looks a bit wet to me so ease up on watering maybe.

I’ll probably get flamed for this but I’ve gotten great results from this Job’s inoculant in the past. A bag costs $5. You might consider adding some before you process for another month.

Jobe's Organics Compost Starter 4-4-2, 09926, 4 pounds, 4 lb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MZ2UOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SXHPCb2BKK3P9

But adding more unprocessed material to a pile that looks unfinished may be counterproductive, unless you have strong reason to believe your materials are grossly unbalanced.

The compost bin I purchased came with a Wing Digger. I didn't expect it to work well, but I have been pleasantly surprised. It works well enough for turning my pile, which consists almost entirely of coffee grounds and shredded paper and leaves. Using this, I never have to use a pitchfork or dump out the compost and pile it back in.

If I were to get a new one, I would consider getting one with two pairs of wings and an extra hand hold. It looks a little sturdier, and should turn the compost at least twice as much.

I bought this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LNDBH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Handles paper great, not cardboard, but I have enough paper now that I can use this no problem. Lots of newspaper thanks to my neighbor. :)

I keep my kitchen compost bucket on the counter, by the sink. I think accessibility would help you. When cooking, you can set up your cutting board (or whatever) near the bin so you can easily transfer scraps.

Oxo makes an easy-open/non-latching countertop bin — that might help it “feel” easier too.

https://www.amazon.com/OXO-Grips-Clean-Compost-White/dp/B003ZFW0YQ

I think adding a multi-bin setup would make your life more complicated.

Late to the party but wondering the same thing, was hoping something like this might work but I have my doubts https://www.amazon.com/Weston-05-0201-Construction-Stainless-Crushing/dp/B000XB5UHE/

Nice support from the family!
On the topic of lower waste, composting, and coffee. If you’re more of a one-cup-at-a-time user, check out the Aeropress. I use my filters at least twice (rinsing after use obviously).
AeroPress Coffee and Espresso Maker - Quickly Makes Delicious Coffee without Bitterness - 1 to 3 Cups Per Pressing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047BIWSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G2TxCb441315J

I got one like this a few years ago. Doesn't smell at all. Just don't put any animal bones/meat/oils and you should be fine. Has never smelled bad or had any unusual odors ever.

Tumbler is fine too. I prefer the one that sits on the ground though because worms find their way in it when it's not too hot.

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B003HOR8BK

I do both an outdoor compost bin and an indoor vermicompost bin. Have found these very helpful:

Websites:

Home Composting Made Easy

Red Worm Composting.com

Books:

Let It Rot! The Gardener's Guide to Composting

Worms Eat My Garbage: How to Set Up and Maintain a Worm Composting System

you say you're storing it, where does it go after storage?

I keep my compost in a repurposed asparagus steamer under my sink, stuff stays there for a couple of weeks sometimes before I take it out and it's fine. I line the bottom with half of a cardboard egg carton to absorb the liquid. They also make special containers for this with super heavy lids to contain odors like this but I rarely have issues with odors even living in a hot climate. There are fulling self contained small compost bins for indoors like theis

I've got this one
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017WOFSI

Ditto. I use this one.

The only real way of keeping it is to get a cheap air pump (http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=zg_bs_2975471011_1) an constantly have it running in the bucket.

Here you go.

https://www.amazon.com/Flowtron-Ultimate-Mulcher-Electric-Shredder/dp/B00006XMTM

I'm using these bags to line my compost pail. In my experience they do break down completely, and I'm running a cold vermicompost system. The bags thin out and break apart and eventually, they disappear UNNI ASTM D6400 100% Compostable Trash Bags, 2.6 Gallon, 9.84 Liter, 100 Count, Extra Thick 0.71 Mils, Food Scrap Small Kitchen Trash Bags https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013XGQXVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8C9RDb6FTJXJZ

Mother Earth News has a reader question that mentioned 3 years for dog mushers in Alaska to compost it completely, due to the cold climate, but an Ag extension test got it down to 4-8 weeks. They couldn't say for certain whether it would kill roundworm because they couldn't find any infected stool to work with, but theoretically if the pile gets to 140F it will be clean. The six months I read in this book Holy Shit, I believe, but it has been awhile!

I've read your replies to comments and recommend this. I'm in a tiny apartment too! just drill holes on the sides/top.

I also have a lot of nitro waste and obvs no easy access to carbon since I don't clip my own lawn but I've been using paper bags from groceries, toilet paper/paper towel rolls, and going around my neighborhood with my daughter and picking up dead leaves/twigs to dump in for carbon