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Is it necessary to clean up flux? Almost never. Is it a good idea to do it anyway? I'd say so. Here's a good article about all things solder and flux to bring you up to speed.

Flux is SUPER carcinogenic, or so I've been lead to believe, and it also causes serious gastrointestinal issues if ingested, in even relatively small amounts. I generally try to leave all the circuit boards I work on clean of big globs of flux, but I'm no perfectionist. Flux is non-conductive, so don't worry if you leave a bunch behind or it looks like the flux might be bridging a connection. I oftentimes leave smaller flux contamination spots on the board, unless it's in a spot where I'd be likely to touch next time I'm handling the board.

Here's a pretty good soldering iron, the Hakko FX-888. It's more than enough iron to last you through all your projects in the foreseeable future, and it comes with extra tips and a tip cleaning canister. To be honest, though, it's pretty expensive, and I totally understand if it's out of your price range. Personally, I use a Chinese clone, which works extremely well, for what I paid for it.

I'd also recommend anyone working on anything with a soldering iron to get a set of helping hands. Finding one which isn't broken or of shit quality is a real crapshoot, but, once you have one that works, you'll wonder how you ever got by without one. Personally, I recommend spending the cash to get one with some sort of LED built in, but here's a link to a cheap and functional set of helping hands.

If you're going to be desoldering things often (or trying to make beautiful solder joints), you definitely want to get yourself some desoldering braid, which is just stranded copper wire filled with flux paste. When you put heat to the top of the braid and put the bottom of the braid on the component, the braid will wick excess solder from the component. Once you master using this stuff, it's a real boon for disassembly (or cleanup of solder blobs). You might also want to look into a desoldering pump, which is okay for some things, but not nearly as versatile as desoldering braid.

Last, but certainly not least, is having the right solder for the job. Personally, I use silver bearing solder, because I've been told it is more resistant to cold joints, and slightly more conductive. Here's a link to a spool of silver bearing solder, which I'd buy, were I in the market for a new spool.

One more link for you... When I was looking for a link to that Chinese clone soldering station, I stumbled on this DIY SMD soldering practice kit. Might be worth your time to invest in one and try your luck. For $2, it's a great way to go from soldering zero to soldering hero in a day or two. Also, check this page for more DIY kit ideas.

Let me know if you have any more questions! My inbox is always available, if you'd feel more comfortable PM'ing me questions, too. (That goes for anyone who needs a hand, not just /u/websurferathome)

I don't know about making repro crats, but I do know about mods and repairs. I have done an overclock mod and 2 s-video mods on my genesis consoles, as well as lots of repairs on other consoles.

I have the basic tools like screw drivers, needle-nose pliers, and some tiny cutters just like these.

My soldering iron is a cheap 35 watt fixed temperature hunk of crap. Get a better one. I don't have any recommendations, but this one is linked to from this subreddit's sidebar. It has good reviews, but I haven't tried it myself.

I also have a spool of thin rosin core solder that is about 1mm thick. I also have a spool of de-solder wick which comes in handy.

To hold down and/or secure wires I use some rubbery electrical tape or hot glue. I use the electrical tape whenever I can, since it is easier to remove than the hot glue. The hot glue is useful in small amounts to keep wires from getting accidentally pulled out of place.

A multimeter is very useful. You probably won't need a really fancy one, just a basic $10 one.

I bought one of those parallel cables that all the old printer's used for only $1.99 at a thrift store. It's packed with different colored wires, that are just the right thickness to use for most console repairs/mods.

The soldering station you're looking at will be fine for replacing capacitors. Its adjustable, which will come in handy when you want to further your skills. Get some extra tips, and find some fine point ones. I like to use long conical ones, as well as long small flat ones.

As other posters have said, you want to practice on something you don't necessarily want to keep. Find something cheap from a thrift store and take it apart.. an old clock radio, vcr, something of that sort. Then identify the capacitors and give it a go. Once you get the hang of it, try on the genesis.

Solder - you want some 60/40 solder (60%tin 40%lead). Stay away from acid core, its not for electronics. Find this in a thin gauge, you'll have a better time with it.

Flux - nice to have around. On some joints, the old solder doesn't really like to flow all that well. You can put some flux on it, and it'll flow a bit better. Use it on the new joint as well. There's several different types, and you can get lost in it, but you really want a liquid or gel type flux that is "no clean". I still give it a rinse with alcohol and a brush after I'm finished, but it cleans up way easier than regular flux. Here's what I use : MG Chemical's Paste flux

You will also need something to remove the old solder from the holes. Tools like this Vacuum pump and desoldering wick like Desoldering wick are good for removing the old solder.

As for the actual removal and replacement of the capacitors, I usually heat up one side from the bottom of the board, and rock the cap so it slides out a bit, then do the other side, working the cap out a little at a time. After that I clear the hole with a vacuum pump (while heating the solder up, get the vacuum pump as close as possible and press the button) or the desoldering wick (put the wick on top of the solder, then heat both, pull the soldering iron and the wick off at the same time, lest you pull up traces - This takes a bit more practice to perfect)

Make sure you put the new capacitor in correctly. Electrolytic caps are polarized. You want to make sure positive goes to positive and negative to negative. Look at the cap before you remove it. Most boards are marked, but no reason to risk the board being marked wrong.

Make sure the caps you're using are the proper rating. A general rule is the capacitance needs to be the same (farad rating), and the voltage rating needs to be at least the rated, but can be higher with no ill effects.

Its late and I'm rambling. Hope this helps.

Although not the cheapest, ebay is probably the easiest way to find faulty systems.

Some equipment recommendations:

• A TS100 soldering iron. I use a more expensive Hakko FX888-D, but I've heard great things about this one for the price. Try to get a chisel tip for general purpose use, it has a balanced combination of size and heat transfer.
  
• iFixit 64-bit toolkit, for handling all the various screws you'll encounter.
  
• Soldapullt desoldering pump. Don't bother with the Chinese knock-offs, they seem to break easily.
  
• Fine 63/37 solder. One roll will last you a long time. Don't bother with cheap Chinese solder, it will not have the advertised metal composition and give poor results.
  
• I like this flux, but it's kind of pricey.
  
• Desoldering braid is essential.
  
• Neoteck multimeter. Very good for the price.
  
• If you need to remove SMD components, a 858D hot air station available under various Chinese brands you've never heard of. Kind of sketchy, but works and has not burned down my home yet.

Regardless of how it looks, the only important thing is that it functions. Congrats for that. I would recommend keeping a cheat sheet with the old cap values since the SMD caps don't really tell you their values (in case they ever go bad) :)


The only real suggestion I can make is:
LEARN TO USE FLUX <3


Those pointed bits of solder would get fixed if you put a dab of flux on the blob and touch it with the iron. :D


That's my only critique.


I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Clean-Paste-Syringe/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483361217&sr=8-1&keywords=mg+chemicals+no+clean+flux

As someone who has gotten into doing this over the last three years or so, my best recommendation is to start with a decent temperature-controlled soldering station.

I started with a $10 kit that included a cheap pencil iron, stand, small amount of solder, desoldering pump and desoldering wick. I thought it would be a good place to start but it was horrible and taught me more bad habits than anything else. Most of the time, it couldn't get hot enough to melt the solder either.

I'm not saying you have to spend a lot of money, I'm just saying if you go as cheap as possible, you'll just end up wasting that money when you inevitably find that you need a real soldering station. I got the Aoyue 936 (don't ask me how to pronounce that brand name, way too many vowels) and absolutely love it. I got it for $40 when Fry's had a sale on it but it's worth the $50 Amazon is asking. Pick up one of those brass wire sponges to go with it, they're much better at cleaning your iron than the traditional damp sponge and keep the iron hot at the same time.

Good luck!

These are the ones I bought. They say 360 but they work great on the OG Xbox as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EIZ46S/ref=pe_385040_30332210_TE_dp_1

I haven't had to degauss anything in quite a while but of the two demagnetizers I keep in the shop one looks like an electronic engraver or a drill but with a thick wide tip instead of a pointed one and the other one looks like link 2 but oval shaped. You want the first one, the other is normally for tvs and hard drives

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-DEMAGNETIZER-Cassette-Recorder-Track/dp/B003ZKLP4W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=demagnetizer&qid=1573084575&sprefix=demagnet&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Waldom-Degaussing-Coil-Color-Power/dp/B00011UYJU/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=degausser&qid=1573084679&sprefix=degau&sr=8-8

I was hoping it didn't have to come to this.
Do you think this tool would be enough for one time usage?
https://www.amazon.com/Hobbico-Soldering-Iron-60-Watt/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1475078341&sr=1-7&keywords=soldering
I'm not sure what else I can use a solder for.

Thanks.

Take the battery out. Get a toothbrush. Some of this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=T9K663XMBYF5&dchild=1&keywords=crc+electronic+cleaner&qid=1575079801&sprefix=crc+ele%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-2

Scrub off the board and rinse with highest concentration of alcohol you can get. I use 91%. Repeat until it looks good. Replace the battery, because I'm sure that one is a gonner.

The idea is to use a chemical meant to reverse oxidation in plastics like headlight lenses, but on the laser lens. I've heard of people using this product to buff the lens: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR

Re: pots, I think it can work if you have an oscilloscope and the repair manual to get the values, but otherwise it's kind of a fool's errand IMO

I recommend either replacing the buttons with a soldering iron or spraying some Deoxit into them and pressing on them a bunch of times.

I've fixed countless GBA SP and DS Lite shoulder buttons with the help of Deoxit.

Perhaps some plastic polish? Im not sure if it will quite give it a glossy finish so much though, but a lot of people favor this it seems, haven't tried it myself.

Also, something like this might work - Bayka 60W Soldering Iron

A little cheaper than the Hakko

You can get an digital to analog audio converter and use the optical out on the Xbox for audio. Don't forget a cable if you don't have one already.

Here we gooooo!!!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I45Y8Q/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_3?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000P0TZ5G&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1GK1PEGVBH90WXJPVFS0

I used this and put it in the sun for about 4 hours wrapped in plastic wrap. L'Oreal Oreor Creme 40 Volume... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A3ZN7W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here is the desktop version of your link

Wash it in your bathtub.

Seriously though, sounds like your blue ray lens is dirty. Use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00178HN0O

That's how they're supposed to look, don't worry. The pins don't look corroded, so if you've already cleaned them with alcohol, try to use contact cleaner, but if that doesn't work, than polishing them with Brasso will usually do the trick.

But, I do t think the pins are the problem, I took a closer look at your traces and there seems to be two black spots on #9 that could possibly be a break in the traces. Try and check the conductivity if you have a multimeter.

Grab one of these. Copy it all back and you can copy to another mem card. There was a company in the UK that made one too (thought it was Codemasters but I cant find it anymore) that was a cheat system/memory manager that worked the same, but this will do the trick.

*Found it, it was CodeJunkies, only thing is they ship from the UK