(Part 2) Top products from r/corgi

About 1,5 years ago, I was in a similar situation. I had no previous experience of dogs, no idea what to expect. Also, about 6 months ago, my girlfriend moved away and I've been solely responsible for our dog since. It's not easy, but you have to realize that from this point onward, that dog is part of your family and comes first.

First things first: Puppies for Dummies, read it now (or some other book).

As many others have pointed out, there's no way a reputable breeder would give out a puppy at 6 weeks. Around here, 8 weeks is the minimum (otherwise I agree with everything cirocco wrote). It might feel that it doesn't matter, but as you will soon find out, a week is a major milestone in a puppy's development. Anyway, that's happened so let's focus on the future.

A dog is pretty resilient, so you have some margin of error, but I can't emphasise how important each week is and how you need to really focus on the puppy for the first year or so. You'll be rewarded later on.

I'm guessing getting the dog was primarily your girlfriend's idea? That doesn't matter now and you can't use that as any excuse, because you're both going to be equally important to the puppy. If you think about it as your girlfriend's dog, it's going to be a mistake (as I learned out pretty quickly). It will love and depend on both of you. The longest stretch your dog can be left alone is around 8 hours (when adult). However, you're not even close to that yet and you need to teach your puppy that being alone is ok. But that's only possible once your puppy feels safe and trusts its surroundings.

The puppy will poop and puke in many interesting places (and continue to do so when adult). In most cases, this will be normal and caused by something the dog ate and will go away soon. A change of diet will pretty much always guarantee strange poops. Your puppy will soon learn that it should go outside to do its business, but because of a weak bladder it will not be able to do so for a long time and this is the reason why it's never ok to blame the dog for making an accident.

In a year, you won't have a finished end-product. Yes, it will be much easier on many fronts by then, but your dog will still require attention, care and leadership. When you'll girlfriend leaves for graduate school, your dog will miss her but will soon be ok. However, at this point you really need to make sure that there are others that can take care of the dog when you personally can't (trip, sickness, etc.). At around 1 year, your dog is going to be very active and you need to make sure all its needs are taken care of or you will end up with a bunch of behavioral problems. It will get easier, but you can't take it any less seriously. Taking care of an active breed by just yourself means that you'll spend a lot time out with your dog.

You might want to consider taking up a dog-related hobby like obedience training or agility or something.

> for what? So I can "pet" something?

You have lost your independence, but you have gained a new best friend for life. Yes, vets can be expensive. Yes, your life changed and you can't get it back. You chose a breed that has a pretty long lifespan, is relatively active and which is not considered to be "easy". It's up to you to think hard if you're up to the challenge. What you will end up is much more than a "pet".

We talked about gettinga a dog for a year before actually doing so. We borrowed our friends' dog for weekends. We researched breeds and met breeders. Even so, once the puppy came home I was scared, I wasn't sure I was up to the task. But now I couldn't be happier. It is hard, and most of my time goes with my dog but for me it's all worth it. When I get home after a day at work, the massive amount of love that awaits me at home is just amazing. Those tiny feet jumping at me, so happy that I'm back after a boring but successful day guarding the dog fort.

TL;DR: If you jumped right here, you might not be up to the task. I was in a similar position, and it's not going to be easy - but so rewarding if you have the right attitude. You will not learn the guitar nor go regulary to the gym for at least the next 6 months.

Good tips here so far. The key to corgis is exercise, obedience, then affection. Train them, train them every day, work hard at it, be consistent. With corgis, you get back what you put in, and then some. It is hard, HARD work, they are not fluffy little lapdogs or couch potatoes. Corgis are intelligent, high-energy working dogs. They're very smart, they're very trainable, and they're very vocal. Corgis are loyal and affectionate, but on their terms. Not all of them are roly poly cuddle bugs.

If you are just starting out on your corgi search, RESEARCH. Everything about the breed, all the information you can digest on training and raising a corgi. As mentioned, the sidebar has helpful information. The FAQ at mycorgi.com has some helpful information, but please take it with a grain of salt.

Find a local vet, talk to them about raising a puppy. Most importantly, find a vet that has EXPERIENCE with corgis and their specific health issues and development traits. Find an emergency pet clinic (you never know) and keep that information handy.

Here are some helpful books:
http://www.amazon.com/The-Complete-Pembroke-Welsh-Corgi/dp/0876052499

http://www.amazon.com/Pembroke-Welsh-Corgi-Happy-Healthy/dp/0470390611/ref=pd_sim_b_2 (we have this one, it's great)

http://www.amazon.com/Welsh-Corgis-Pembroke-Cardigan-Complete/dp/0764142429/ref=pd_sim_b_1

Decide if you're going to go to a breeder or a rescue, research both options. Find a responsible breeder and interview them, interview them again, explore your rescue options.

This is a lifetime commitment, and should not be taken lightly. Understand that corgis can live a minimum of 12 years (and hopefully more) so you should be prepared for that.

Definitely take care when feeding your corgi, because they can tend to pack on weight if they are fed w/o observation. Research the best treats, ingredients and calories to pick your best training aid.

Find local facilities that offer puppy classes — obedience training, playgroups, socialization, etc. Figure out what schedules work best for you.

Be prepared for all that comes with raising a puppy if you look to go that route, and please don't bring any dog home earlier than 8 weeks. It's better for the dog and better for you in the long run. And will be better on your sleep schedule. Also important socialization and essential 'how to be a dog' interactions happen within the litter between 6-10 weeks, you don't want your pup to miss out on that.

And be prepared for shedding, corgis shed a lot. I don't feel like it's too much more than our two cats shed, but it is a lot. Some people are not ok with that, or not prepared. Regular grooming should be part of your schedule, make sure you have time for that. Whether you get a fluffy or not, please don't ever shave your corgi. They are double-coated for a reason.

And DEFINITELY take lots of pictures, puppies grow so so fast, it's unbelievable.

Good luck!

• Biting - your puppy will mouth, nip and bite you. It is not out of malice and it is a completely normal (and DESIRED!) behavior. The only way to teach proper bite inhibition is for your puppy to bite you, and for you to help guide them to more acceptable levels of mouthing then to fade mouthing out all together. Here is a great video on bite inhibition. Be prepared for a mouthy herding breed to nip you until they start to loose their baby teeth.
  
  
• Potty Training - You can never let your puppy out of your sight for the first several months you own them. They need to be on a leash in your direct line of sight or in a puppy safe area like a crate or play pen. This means you are going to spend your evenings playing with and tuckering out your puppy - not watching tv. You also need to be around to let your puppy out ever 2-3 hours, max. Hopefully you already made arrangements at work before committing to a puppy. Here is a resource on house training.
  
  
• Crate Training - Crate training is amazing. It is great for house training, will reduce stress if your dog ever needs to be boarded, go to dog care or spend time at the vet and can help you save your house once puppy is old enough to be home alone for 3-4 hours a day. You will need to teach your puppy to love their crate, however, which means a lot of whining and barking for a couple months until they really start to get used to it. If crate training is such a good thing, why is your puppy fussing so much? A lot of it comes from being away from their litter, in a new place with strange people and being alone for the first time in their lives. It is very important to help puppies get over that and crate training is a great way to help them learn to be OK being alone and that their crate is a safe and rewarding place to be. Learn more about Crate Training.
  
  
• Mistakes are going to happen - your puppy will likely have an accident or two even after they are house trained (tip: your puppy may get the concept of house training quickly, but will not be ACTUALLY house trained until their bladder is mature enough to hold it for more than a couple hours). Your puppy will also bite, bark, grow, dig, and destroy at least one thing you really like. Take it in stride - do not punish your puppy for these mistakes. You would not punish an infant for vomiting on you, having an accident or breaking something - they wouldn't understand the punishment! A puppy doesn't understand either! These books are really great starting point for new dog owners: Don't Shoot the Dog, The Culture Clash, and The Power of Positive Dog Training. They contain a lot of training tips and insight into dog communication, thinking, motivation and having a positive relationship with your dog.
  
  
• Be prepared for anything - have at least $5k in the bank you are willing to use JUST for your dog! A medical emergency can happen at any time and can be very expensive! If you are going through a reputable breeder, hopefully you have seen all the puppy's parents health tests and know the risk of genetic disorders for your puppy - but "LIFE" can happen to a dog, too! Falling down steps, getting hit by a car, accidentally getting stepped on (corgi puppies are tiny!), having a reaction to a vaccination, eating something they shouldn't, getting sat on by another dog (true story - cost us $400 when our corgi hurt is shoulder after being sat on by a bigger dog...), and a myriad of other accidents that can happen to ANYONE. Being prepared to take on that expense is important! I would hope you never have to choose between your dog or a vet bill - make sure you have planned for that! Pet Insurance can also be very valuable and is worth researching (we use PetPlan - I have been extremely happy with it.)
  
  
• Be ready to learn! - Raising a puppy is not unlike raising a child - if you try to operate in a vacuum you are only hurting yourself and your dog! Signup for puppy kindergarten! It is EXTREMELY important, especially if you are bringing your puppy home at 8 weeks! Your puppy needs to be in a kindergarten class as SOON as possible (ideally, starting at 8 weeks.) 8 - 12 weeks is a critical imprinting period where your puppy can develop habits and skills for the rest of their lives. If they spend this critical time locked up inside away from other dogs and people their socialization skills will suffer greatly. Kindergarten is a safe outlet for your puppy to meet other dogs, puppies and people under the guidance of a trainer. Also be sure to hold several 'puppy parties' throughout this time period where you invite new groups of people over to your house to interact with your new family member. Expose your puppy to as much as the world as you can while still being safe!
  
  Socialization 101 -
  
  Do NOT!
  >- Take your puppy to the dog park (before they are 4 months old)!!
  >
  >- Take your puppy to highly populated 'dog hangouts' with people you dont know (Training clubs are different as all dogs are required to be UTD on vaccinations)!!
  
  DO!
  >- Go to puppy kindergarten! And continue obedience classes once the puppy is old enough.
  >- Invite people of all ages, colors and sizes to your house (or go to their house) to socalize your puppy.
  >
  >- Let your puppy play with dogs you know who are UTD on vaccines and are well socialized to puppies.
  >- Carry your puppy around public places to get them exposed to the world.
  
  
  There is a LOT to learn in preparation for a puppy, from knowing the importance of working with a reputable breeder, to knowing and understanding Corgi Quirks, to having a solid training plan. Be as prepared as you can be and enjoy those puppy months! They are very trying, you will loose sleep, you will wonder WHY you did this to yourself and HOW something so cute can be so utterly evil - but once your pup starts to get into the groove and your training starts to pay off, you will realize it is worth it.
  
  Here is my packaged dog starter link list - some are compliments to articles/resources I linked to above, and some are the same, but all are worthwhile!
  
  
• Find a reputable training club
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Wiki
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Book List
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Online Resources
  
  
• The Digital Dog Training Textbook
  
  
• Ian Dunbar - Training Bite Inhibition
  
  
• Kikopup Training Videos
  
  
• Kikopup - Clicker Training
  
  
• Kikopup - Puppy Playlist
  
  
• Dont Shoot the Dog (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• The Power of Positive Dog Training (book)

Hawaii? That's very interesting. I imagine dog showing out there is rather different than in the continental US. Is Cinberlin the Corgi "monopoly" breeder?

A lot of that contrast is from the photo. The dogs look stunning in real life but not quite like that. Like, this is my dog and he isn't the cleanest in this pic. His color is strong in real life, but not quite so intense as in the photo.

Aside from photo trickery, a lot of the color has to do with the type, quality, and richness of pigment in the coat. I have seen many, many Corgis that lack that extra oomph because they simply don't have the richness or depth of color, or have a really tight coat that doesn't catch light well. It doesn't matter how clean they are, they will never be as striking as others.

I'm far from a grooming expert, but for getting what you have bright and shiny, whitening shampoo is your friend--and lots of it. They make color intensifying shampoos for people, so they probably make them for dogs too. You also want to be sure there is as little dead undercoat as possible. ie Remove all the loose undercoat. Do this with a dog/velocity/forced-air blow dryer, which will also fluff the coat up a bit and make it look more impressive.

Handling the dog is a skill, and many places offer handling classes. Contact a local kennel club to find out about handling classes in your area. You may even want to get with the "monopoly" breeder and learn from them about what makes a good handler and what makes a successful show dog. In fact, I highly encourage getting in contact with them and asking to shadow them at a show.

I hear that showing in UKC is good because there's less competition, less pressure, and UKC is more welcoming of newbies.

Definitely know the standard and what all the terms mean. I highly recommend buying a copy of the illustrated standard. It will be better for you as a show competitor and potential breeder if you understand more about why structure is important, so I also recommend reading up on dog structure in general. This was my first book and I loved it.

Any portable vac will be good for things like crumbs, pebbles, and larger clumps of hair, but for cleaning upholstery, especially inside the car, I use one of these things: https://www.amazon.com/Gonzo-Pet-Hair-Lifter-Furniture/dp/B000209Z2C It actually does a fantastic job of removing hair, is reusable, and easy to clean. It can take a little bit of getting used to to start, but I've honestly not found much better, especially anything reusable.

But more importantly, a back-seat hammock cover has been a GODSEND for my car!! This is the one I use, and it keeps the back seat safe from muddy paws, drool, any potential accidents, and 95% of shed fur. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQFZGZ0 It is easy to set up and stays in place - also easy to clean since I can just wipe it down, vacuum it, or even throw it in the washer if I absolutely have to. Also has the benefit of hiding the floor of my back seat. I drive a Nissan Cube so I don't have a covered cargo - this thing lets me hide things during shopping trips where I can't drop anything off in between stores.

Before I got that little hammock, I would just keep an extra blanket or a couple towels in the backseat, and that did a fair job at keeping things at least manageable, so long as I remembered to shake them out or replace them every few trips.

You can start training your puppy now, just keep in mind that small puppy=small attention span. Training sessions should be 2 minutes tops, keep them exciting and full of positive attention. Start out by getting him used to being handfed, then move to an easy-to-train command like "sit". Once he's got that down or seems to need more variety, gradually begin to introduce more commands.

As for treats, you can use kibble from his main diet as a minor training reward to start out with. You can also use soft treats like training treats or freeze-dried liver. Just don't go too overboard on rewarding!

Get as many friends and family of a variety of ages to come and visit/treat your puppy in the next couple of weeks as possible. Socialization is key and the 8-10 week window can, in a lot of ways, determine your dog's demeanor going forward. I'm sure you know, but you should avoid taking the puppy out to meet other dogs or into areas with high dog traffic until he is finished with the parvo series of vaccinations.

This is just the tip of a very large iceberg of puppy info. I'll put in a plug for /r/dogtraining and /r/puppy101 here! Both are great resources. We also relied heavily on the advice of Ian Dunbar while training our corgi. His website is here, he also has a great book Before and After Getting Your Puppy which was our bible. We basically did a less intense versions of his errorless house, chew toy, and crate trainings and our corgi was accident free by 3 months, is happy and bark free in his crate, and has yet to legitimately destroy anything.

Congratulations on your new pup and happy training to you!

If you're willing to spend a few dollars, there are some good books out there about corgis :) My mom has the older version of this book and I found it really informative. You can see in the table of contents that it covers pretty much anything you'd like to know about the breed, taking care of it, etc. But there are other books about corgis as well on amazon so you can check out a few of them before you settle on one :)

Cinberlin is not the monopoly, she is actually very selective about who she sells to and is a reputable breeder/shower, but her prices were high as well, but I respect her because she explained to me the care and effort she puts in, and informed me of the backward practices of the monopoly person as if they're dogs are always pregnant, basically a backyard puppymill. Basically his pricing is 1.8-2.2k without papers, 5-6k with limited papers, 10-15k fine if you breed without their consent. Obviously the no papers are not registered with the AKC.

Thanks for the info on the standards, I read up on the corgi standards and mine seems to be in good shape, but that's just me measuring.

So for whitening shampoo i use this, https://smile.amazon.com/Chris-Christensen-White-Shampoo-fl-oz/dp/B000NV87FG?sa-no-redirect=1, I have no idea how much help it does because I only bathe him every month or every other.

What is the frequency I should bathe him to get his coat cleaned and ready?

while I dont agree with everything this book is a good start.

https://www.amazon.com/Art-Raising-Puppy-Revised/dp/0316083275

Tons of great blogs by lots of positive reinforcement trainers.

I'm in agreement with /u/curigcorgis. A Furminator can cut and break the undercoat furs if you comb too vigorously and too often. That's not something I'm willing to risk, so while I have a Furminator (purchased before I knew any better) I don't ever use it on my corgi.

A Kong Zoom Groom plus a steel greyhound comb is more than enough to deal with loose fur. The Zoom Groom is a rubber brush and is outrageously effective in getting loose fur out. It also doubles as a good shampoo latherer. After, I then comb away the loose furs that the zoom groom caused.

Another great tool is a high velocity blow dryer. Think of it like a hair dryer on crack. Or a shop vac in reverse. It's been a game changer for us after baths and is a must have to deal with heavy shedding times.

Amazon! I got one from a reddit gift exchange

http://www.amazon.com/Douglas-1819-Stuffed-Ingrid-Welsh/dp/B000EINJPQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368201085&sr=8-1&keywords=stuffed+corgi

I've flown with my grown corgi on six different flights now, ranging from 1 to 6-hours all underseat in cabin. Most airlines seem fairly restrictive, so I've only used southwest (only $95 each way) and choose the middle seat with a Sherpa Large carrier; haven't run into any issues so far. Everyone has been really nice and let me open up the carrier in flight so she can pop her head out.

For reference she's about 27 lbs 10" at withers and 22" long - with that carrier she is able to stand up and turn around while under the seat which is pretty spacious. Again I've only used the middle seat because it has the most space though window and aisle would work as well but look more cramped.

Edmond will most definitely have one of these.

Amazon link because you know you want one too.



Also apologies if this has been posted here before, I don't think I have seen it here though.

For those interested, here's where you can find the book.

https://www.amazon.com/Ruff-Dawg-Hardware-Wrench-Assorted/dp/B000LP34PW

It’s a privacy film that I have on my window! Here’s the link to it! https://www.amazon.com/Homein-Decorative-Removable-Adhesive-17-5x78-7/dp/B07P1QH2DY?ref_=Oct_DLandingS_b2f8e392_4&smid=A2QDEFR7L86TL

make sure you roll her on her back and hold her muzzle lightly and say no.. make sure they know biting is not a game... or it will be a kids face as a game.. and a very bad one at that.. dont ask her to stop biting your hair.. tell her... This is a great book. http://www.amazon.com/How-Raise-Perfect-Dog-Puppyhood/dp/0307461300/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1397524876&sr=1-1&keywords=Cesar+Millan

key note: sometimes you have to be the bad guy to have a good dog. but being the bad guy only lasts a few seconds when your stopping bad behavior.