(Part 2) Top products from r/cosplayprops

What kind of paint did you use? Do you have an airbrush? Do you plan to sand with 800+ grit before coating?

There's a lot to learn about paint jobs and sealing them. After a few failed attempts and weird reactions, I tend to keep same brand paint throughout a piece (for primers I hop around, but let it dry completely before top coating).

If you're using a different brand I HIGHLY suggest you wait until it has gassed out (it doesn't smell like paint anymore lol). This can take several days depending on how many coats you used, and whether you applied them too thick.

Sanding allows for better grip of the clear coat to the paint. Wet sanding is best since it removes the debris of paint and prevents most deep scrapes. It is easy to sand through your paint, especially if you only did one coat (which is why you should do 2-3 with some light 600 grit sanding in between)...

I hate sanding before a clear because I suck at it and tend to create a deep scratch or two because I'm too strong for my own good :P What I have found to work wonders is Floor polish/wax.
This is the ONLY one that a lot of modelers suggest:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was known as "Futures" before, but after re-branding and all that, it is now what I linked. You'll need an airbrush for this. Do a light misting of the entire part you're working with, then apply several thin coats allowing them to dry in between (usually 1-2 minutes or less if you have good air circulation). It smells great, self leveling, you can dip small parts into a little cup filled with this stuff... it's fantastic. It's slightly flexible as well. If you wait 38 hours (i think that's what the bottle says) you can apply a second coat for added protection. Make sure to clean your airbrush with ammonia (I use windex), to prevent it from curing inside it.

Essentially, floor polish is more forgiving, but offers slightly less protection than a well applied clear coat. If you don't have time for all that prepping crap (wet sanding before and between clear coats), then definitely go this route.

Great start man!

Symmetry: Make patterns. Go grab some cardstock to do it with, it will hold up better than regular printer paper. Assuming you cut these out of craft foam, just draw a pattern that looks good, cut it out, and see how it fits. Once you have something you like, you can take that newly cut out piece of foam and lay it BACK onto cardstock and redraw it to get it just perfect. Then, when transferring it to another side, just flip it upside down. Also, make sure all your edges are glued down nicely.

Painting: Something that a lot of people don't take into account is priming their props before painting. A primer is something that allows paint to bind to the object a bit better, and gives a nice layer that wont have things showing through. I like to use Bullseye 1-2-3 and just brush it on, but it does have a spraycan option. Prime, Sand with 200~ grit, prime again, sand with 350~ grit, wipe with a damp paper towel, let dry for maybe an hour or so, then paint for best results. Also, 3-5 light layers > 1-2 heavy layers of paint. Also, if you want very customized colors and are willing to brush it on/airbrush, then you can go to the Paint section at Home Depot, find a color you want, and ask for a sample can of paint in that exact color. It's wonderful for small projects!

Here's some examples of my processes for crafting/painting
https://imgur.com/a/XkQBp

https://imgur.com/a/xcZEU

https://imgur.com/a/VCmsQ

If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

No problem at all!

That top section is just spare insulated electrical wire I had floating about, with those grey blobs formed out of Apoxie Sculpt. If you're not familiar with it, it's two-part epoxy clay that will harden to a rock a short time after you combine the two parts, so you can mold it to whatever shape you like and set it fairly quickly. I just slapped it around the wire and hoped for the best, but another option that might look neater is if you find rubber tubing just large enough to slide over the wire in those sections.

For the anchoring, I'm going to MacGuyver this, mostly because I'm having a brain fart and can't think of a search term for what I actually want, so let's start from the bottom of the construction. Get your bucket lid that you'll be using for the base. Epoxy (or screw, if you're feeling adventurous) a light bulb socket to the center -- this will provide that wide, stable base that I failed at when I was building mine. Scoop out a hollow in your styrofoam round large enough to make it sit around that socket, and cut a hole over the socket part. Glue the styrofoam to the bucket lid once you're sure everything lines up properly. We'll be adding the dowel next, but we need to see how long that dowel needs to be.

Take your mannequin head, and flip it upside down. You should see the hole in the bottom of the neck for conventional use. That will not be nearly deep enough. I speak from experience. If you're using a plastic one, you might need to drill to get past the stoppage at the end, if you're using styrofoam a long knife or screwdriver and some patience should work. Get all the way up into the head if you can, but at the very least get a few more inches to work with. Now take your dowel, and push it in as far as it will go. Mark that point on it, that's one end of the depth. Do the same into the socket under the foam. Measure to those marks and add them together, that is the total length of your dowel, cut it to that size.

The most important part here is getting a solid connection from the dowel into the socket. Epoxy should be strong enough, but whatever you use, make sure that the dowel is not moving, it will only end in tears. Once that's solid, cut a hole in the bottom of your (already colored) bucket and slide it down the dowel, attach to the foam round with epoxy. Volia. You have a solid anchor that's long enough to actually hold the head up. That should be able to handle bobbling around, if rotation becomes an issue and you don't expect to take the head back out, you can glue the head to the bottom of the bucket, but if removal might be needed, velcro should do the trick.

I hope that was clear enough!

Edit: Oh I'm a dumbass, you were probably asking about the part behind the wire at the top. That's actually part of the bucket I used and just painted to match, I went digging and found my old order for it. Not sure if that one in particular is still available, but as long as you have that little lip area where the lid connects, you should be fine.

The problem with using paints or glues is that they require exposure to air to cure, so it will never set under the top layer of skin.

I recommend to go with resin. This mixes 1:1 ratio and dries to a white solid, semi-translucent at the thin areas, plus any bubbles will make it look legitimate. It’s exactly what came to my mind when you mentioned milk:
Alumilite Amazing Casting Resin, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058V9KMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_3CBhw6kz94uzW

Alternately (and inexpensively), you can use Plaster or Hydrocal. It will cost under $10 in that case.

Plaster: http://www.walmart.com/ip/DAP-Plaster-Of-Paris-Dry-Mix-4-Lb-Box/190101660

Hydrocal (as perfect cast, get this at Joann and use a coupon): Perfect Cast 2lb Cast & Paint Casting Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O87CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xB9wDbPRN1SXD

Thanks! Yes, I have already purchased and used these boots. I recently used them for my Star Wars Jedi Knight costume, they work and fit great! (They were cheaper when I bought them, like 60 bucks not 90!)

Okeydoke! Here's the ones I bought. They have a bunch of different colour choices (vitally important when one is sewing/worbla-forming!)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJ2X65P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went to Amazon and searched for "silicone" in my order history to find that link for ya. Boy howdy, I've bought a lot of silicone crafty items over the years! If you don't already have something like these, you might dig them as well. I use these as a gluing workspace, but I would imagine they might be nice to "worbla" on as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DZVRJBZ/ref=dp_cerb_3

Paper mache definitely won't be heavy. You can buy/make paper mache clay that is probably perfect for making bones out of.

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Here's how you make it: https://www.ultimatepapermache.com/paper-mache-clay
Here's how you buy it: https://www.amazon.com/ACTIVA-CelluClay-Instant-Papier-Mache/dp/B001144SDE
I haven't used the clay before but I would if I was going to make some fake bones. I'd probably add some wires or fibre on the inside to give it some tensile strength.


In the past I've also made bones out of Sculpy with pretty good results.

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I also have 3d-printed a bird-skull before and it looked good after I did some heat-treatments to remove the ridges from 3d-printing.

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Another option is to just buy a bag-o-fake bones https://www.amazon.com/Fun-Express-Bag-Skeleton-Bones/dp/B000VGOB8A

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One thing I would say is - you should make all your bones out of the same thing. Don't mix real bones with fake bones - the fake bones might look passable by themselves but they'll look like shit next to real bones - you'll clearly be able to tell the difference

Unfortunately they don't show the full 48", but Amazon has some 2" OD Polycarbonate tubing. But I think Willy Wonka's staff tapers a bit at the bottom.

Polycarbonate-Tubing-Wall-Clear-Color/dp/B000OMHIIG

Hope that helps.

To add to the iron powder idea, there are actually metalized paints that are basically iron powder in an acrylic binder that you can brush onto parts and then weather with actual rusting solutions. Might consider spraying the piece first with a clear adhesion promoter. One thing to be aware of is that the rust can continue for aaaages, so once you've got it it to a point where you're happy with the look you may want to put some kind of sealer over the thing to lock it in.

These might help get you started.

http://www.amazon.com/SunAngel%C2%AE-Crystal-Ball-60mm-Clear/dp/B015B8A88O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8

http://www.amazon.com/Intrepid-International-106237-Jump-Bat/dp/B000CQV0TW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E13XQ2K/ref=sxr_pa_click_within_right3?pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2329824862

They look like this

I got mine at home depot for 2.50 each. They have a magnet inside the metal so one side is magnetic but the other isn't. I'm gluing one inside a button cover for the shoulder clasps for my cape. The 2 clasps should hold the cape on by themselves actually.

Here's an amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Pulling-RB50-Magnets/dp/B000WMQFQE/ref=sr_1_26?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540851817&sr=1-26&keywords=magnet

I would think that unless you're talking about a very small (like jewelry sized) piece, nail polish would be more expensive than something like this, since it would require more than one bottle.

HeatnBond UltraHold Iron-On Adhesive, 17 Inches x 1 Yard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y0083K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6vHYDbVRC12HC

Here is the link for the type I prefer. You can buy a roll if the dimensions need to be larger as well.

If you just want Kandi Cuffs that show a custom image, maybe gut one of these and just wear it around? You could have it 'cycle' through different images of the gif you want to display.


Just another way to skin that cat.

i'm using a sponge and mask

https://www.amazon.ca/3M-Pro-Grade-Precision-2-5-Inchx4-5-Inchx1-Inch/dp/B00OB250I0/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=sanding+sponge&qid=1566286096&s=gateway&sr=8-17

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000UM13RW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JM8PY/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_onGUDbNE1GRZ8

http://www.amazon.com/Builder-Liquid-Latex-Rubber-473ml/dp/B001E1XBLO lots of people use this product as one of the cheaper mold making. are you casting in resin?

Sorry https://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X75300-Precision-Razor-Saw/dp/B00004Z2U4

Dremel is just a brand name that became so common that it's synonymous with the generic term "rotary tool." If someone says "Dremel" they may or may not actually mean a Dremel brand rotary tool. Like Q-tips or Frisbees or Zeppelins.

Dremel makes very good tools, but my rotary tool is a Black & Decker. The B&D is ridiculously over-powered and can be used as a drill and even a jigsaw at need, but it's also heavy and cumbersome. Some people even use dog nail grinders if they don't need a lot of power, say if you're only cutting and filing foam.