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Hey, I used this crimping kit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07R1H3Z8X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

The easiest way would be to only use two wires, only connecting the data and a ground (sacrificing rumble). The two pin connector fits nicely. Or if you're determined like I was you can bend the female connector pins of a 4 pin to fit into the header.

I will take a picture of my controllers PCB when I get the chance to show you.

Hey! The best thing to do is to apply some form of protectant. This Glossy Clear coat spray is pretty well-used in the community, just be careful to spray in a well ventilated area/ use a respirator, since this stuff is pretty dangerous if inhaled.

This guide is pretty good for controller maintenance: https://smashboards.com/threads/technical-knowledge-compilation-gamecubes-controllers-tvs-recording.335040/

1. Here’s an amazon link for an assortment of triwings: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHLM4DX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_061HDb5Y64QRM
   
   2,4,5. Your best bet is soap and warm water or some other house hold cleaner. I use a toothbrush, you could use a cotton swab instead. I read that isopropyl alcohol damages/discolors the controller if overused. I use it anyway with cotton swabs for all the nasty bits. If you want to clean the the shoulder buttons, you will also need a Phillips screwdriver to remove the shield.
   
   In terms of difficulty, your only problem is losing the buttons, pads, and screws. I dip my parts in soap water and scrub with a toothbrush, that’s it.
   
   If you want to clean the stick box itself. I just use rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab to clean up whatever is exposed and dirty. As for the inside, you will likely need a soldering iron. Refer to the guide for disassembly and maintenance.
   
   
2. Are you saying that your buttons/sticks are sticking inside the shell, or is the controller sticky like it was covered in pancake syrup? If the latter, try washing your hands before use. Otherwise make sure the silicon pads for the buttons are in the right place.

El Wire: https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Illumination-Electroluminescence-Brightness-Decoration/dp/B07L6RPYV9/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=el+wire&qid=1566694684&s=gateway&sprefix=el+wire&sr=8-12

Its really cheap and looks like a neon light.
The idea im running with is taking 3xPink and 3xWhite 24awg wire and wrapping it around an El Wire. I can then use clear heatshrink around it and replace the black cable that plugs into the controller.

So when I plug the controller into the switch the entire wire will have a Neon Glow.

By the time I'm down it will look very "Outrun/Vaporwave" esque.

Thanks!

Amazon!

For triwing, you could just get a set like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZWY386/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_28c5Bb6EQ6SZ5

You could buy from an Amazon vendor:

https://www.amazon.com/Buttons-Thumbstick-Triggers-Gamecube-Controller/dp/B07JBC5Q8L/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=gamecube+buttons&qid=1571612323&sr=8-5

Another option is to pay the extra $10 to buy from a reputable vendor:

https://battlebeavercustoms.com/products/custom-gamecube-buttons?variant=39517584206

https://www.amazon.com/720Pcs-JST-XHP-Housing-Connector-Adapter/dp/B0752C431F/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=jst+connector+kit&qid=1564712737&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWjZVSTdNTFFTQzZPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTU1MjE0Mjc4VjE2STc2MDZYUyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjg3MjM3MkNNMFpDVTRDOEhRUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I've been using a Crown Royal drawstring bag for year but I saw this today when I was browsing Prime Day sales and scooped one up.

Assuming the sensors take the same voltage and output in a similar range, there's no reason you couldn't hotwire it on the existing PCB. You might have to worry about mounting it securely if it has a different footprint though. If it has a different output range you'd have to modify the PCB to correct it. Personally I'd use an Arduino or similar just so I could fine-tune the sensor range, but you could probably get a working controller with the stock MCU if you aren't fussy about functionality.
The main advantage of using one of those sensor types is longevity: potentiometers rely on moving parts that make physical contact, and so suffer from wear over time. Hall Effect sensors work by detecting a magnetic field, and so don't wear down. I assume the same is true of optical and induction-based sensors. They are probably more accurate too, but thumbsticks are so small I doubt you'd notice.
The trouble is cost: pot-based thumbsticks are very cheap, but I'm having trouble finding Hall Effect thumbsticks that aren't prohibitively expensive. Hall Effect joysticks can be had for around £45, but that's a much larger sensor which wouldn't fit into a GC shell.


EDIT it seems you can buy Hall Effect sensors quite cheaply, so if you're willing to put in some work building your own stickboxes, PCB and programming an MCU to work with them you could build a controller with them for a reasonable price.

This has happened to me. You can’t pull the cord down to expose the copper. And you can’t just cut the paracording as it’s just too much. Here’s my advice. Get some crafting shears (I usethe Plato model 170 shears) and start from the top. Just clip, and pull. Start to cut the cord in half. It’s gonna be worth it because as you grow your collection of parts you’re gonna need cables and boards. They’re the most important supplies. Even if you gotta cut it all the way down you can still salvage the cord. Now everyone will tell you you dont need the copper. I like to keep it just as an integrity thing but a lot of people just scrap it. As I have no personal proof if it works or doesn’t work I just keep it to stay as close to the OEM cable as possible. Cut the cord down until you pass the problematic areas and then you can scrap the copper. I didn’t know to cut the cord like this and I lost my first cable and paracord. Eventually you’ll get your stride though.